Reddit reviews KREG KMA3200 Shelf Pin Drilling Jig
We found 4 Reddit comments about KREG KMA3200 Shelf Pin Drilling Jig. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
The perfect drill guide for shelving, whether you're building from scratch or adding to existing furnitureThis jig from Kreg offers hardened steel drill guides to make sure you're on the mark every timeA locating pin helps you quickly reference the same mark every timeHardened steel drill guides ensure precise drillingLocating pin lets you quickly reference last hole drilledConnect multiple jigs together with the jig extenderIncludes Shelf-Pin Jig, locating pin, jig extender, 1/4-Inch drill bit, depth collar, Allen wrench, instruction manual, and four 1/4-Inch shelf pinsDual position and adjustable 1-Inch and 2-Inch fence with standard hole spacing of 32 mm and a standard hole size of 1/4-Inch also sold separately 5 mm hole size
It a Kreg jig.
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I made a built in bookcase for my wife as my wedding present to her. It spans a whole wall and has a desk portion. (she is a children's book designer and has so many books it's ridiculous)
Bookcases are pretty straightforward. If you want to have adjustable shelves, I highly suggest getting a jig like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKX6D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_496fzbE4TAVCM
If you're trying to do this to save money, then maybe I'm not pointing you in the right direction, lol. It is a "one time use" tool unless you plan on making more bookshelves, but for me it was indispensable because I literally made a wall of shelves, ceiling high.
I love woodworking and can talk about this forever. I'll stop here. If you have any questions, I'm happy to help.
If you want any of the shelves to be adjustable then I would suggest a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig. There are others on the market that might be cheaper but I personally have the kreg and like it. Any non adjustable shelves (probably at least 1 fixed per side on the hutch for strength) I'd do dados. For the backing of the hutch you'd be fine with glue and some brad nails. For the top of the hutch I'd use biscuits and glue probably. For the hutch to the desk top I'd just use a couple dowels for alignment and let gravity do the rest. You'd want the hutch to come off for transport anyway.
Moving onto the desk itself I'd go mortise and tenons for the sides and apron. Dado in and float the panel. With the split in the apron for the drawer you'd have some options either don't go full height for the drawer leaving some material at the top and or bottom or just drill/counter bore screws in the ends connecting it to the desktop.
Another consideration for the base is getting it into the room after it is built. The desk you have in the picture was most likely built in the room it was residing in with it being over 3ft deep at the center and with a full back its going to be hard pressed to make it through most doors. So if you were making a desk like this in a shop to be moved indoors check your door widths you need to get it through. You could leave some of the bottom back open and make it through most doors.
As for material, if they want it painted white anyway it may be worth checking into using melamine for the top and shelves. Its easier to clean and the surface may be more durable than painted plywood. Its also decently easy to iron on edge banding after its cut. Legs, apron and sides would be fine as pine and plywood thought.
As others have stated this is a pretty ambitious project and I wouldn't want to start it without at least a table saw and probably a router as well. Biscuit joiner and doweling jig would both be useful but not necessary.
it sounds like you are installing a add-in option for what usually come as flat pack cabinet/shelves such as closet systems or DIY cabinets. the spacing for those usually are bored with a 4mm (maybe5mm) at 22mm apart. if you can research a company that does those type of installs the may be able to refer you to a tool and jig supplier.
See if this is what you are looking for.