Best idc electrical termianls according to redditors

I tend to use Wago connectors for stuff like this, instead of soldering. 221 or 222 series will take both stranded and solid wire.

First of all, great to see that all the cables are terminating in one spot.

Are you planning on making all the jacks for your network, or are you planning on leaving a couple jacks for your telephone?

What you need to do is attach those network cables to a patch panel. Since you already have the OnQ telephone distribution module, probably the easiest replacement would be the OnQ Network Interface Module:
http://www.amazon.com/On-Q-Legrand-363486-01-Network-Interface/dp/B0002M5NKI

A cheaper option is the Leviton panel: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-001-47603-0C5-Category-Voice-Expansion/dp/B00022742I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414892331&sr=1-1&keywords=leviton+network

You could buy 3 of those patch panels to provide a jack for each cable in your house.

Now, what if you want to leave some jacks as telephone jacks? one of the issues is that since I don't see any labelling, you don't know quick cable goes to where.

You could buy a toner (http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Network-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414891492&sr=8-2&keywords=network+toner) but the telephone distribution module will redistribute the toner signal to all the other cables (making locating difficult).

A "Plan of Attack" would be:

1. Buy 3 patch panels and move all existing cables to those panels
   
   
2. Use a toner to map each outlet in the house and the associated cable
   
   
3. Leave the telephone distribution panel (and the white cable attached) to handle telephone connections
   
   
4. For jacks you want to network, attach a network cable to the patch panel jack and attach it to the router (or a network switch for more than 4 connections)
   
   
5. For jacks you want to telephone, use a crimper, or buy some cheap cat5e cables and cut them in half. Patch the cable to the telephone distribution panel and plug them into the appropriate patch panel jack.
   
   
   Note: Since the house was prewired for telephone, the jacks in each room may only be RJ-11 (4P4C) and/or only have one pair punched down. You might want to see if they are RJ-45 Jacks (8P8C) and have all 4 pairs punched down.
   
   Edit: Since it seems you only have a cordless phone in the house (and if you are willing to make all jacks network jacks), you can ignore steps 3 & 5.

Less than ten cents each

Why not these? https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-UR-3-2-Wire-Splice/dp/B004EEMJS4 This is pretty standard for splicing telephone line and they are super quick.

I just wanted to point out that this is $22 for 28 connectors of 3 sizes. You can get 118 assorted wire nuts for $10 from amazon and a hell of lot cheaper from a supply shop when you buy them by the bucket. It may not matter if you're a weekend guy trying to not burn down your house, but it adds up real quick when you wire a house.

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

Check this out at Amazon.com
Wago 221-413 LEVER-NUTS 3... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYXVXR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got red and black...

Check this out at Amazon.com
Remington Industries... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010T5Y6PU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Check this out at Amazon.com
Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WA0W62S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check this out at Amazon.com
ATPWONZ IP68 Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NALYPFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I second Wago connectors, These are what i would use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=hr3Yf&pf_rd_r=ZYXJFJQHX01M7APC8JBR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_w=TPn4N&pf_rd_i=wago+connector&pd_rd_r=6ee3ce01-8e70-4bdb-9718-965ceb4fcdc1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541084967&sr=3

The pid:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple/dp/B07QS2W736?th=1&psc=1

It’s Celsius but it’s only $19

These heaters $10

https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-Cartridge-Electric-Heating-Fittings/dp/B06XWB86GF

These connectors are good 10 pack $8.45

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wago+connector+3+ten+pack&qid=1570302206&sr=8-3

These cable glands. $2.54

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Waterproof-Cable-Connector/dp/B00EZ76W74/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=pg11+cable+gland+2+pack&qid=1570302379&sr=8-2


Power cable and switch if you want one just take out the switch and rewire it in your box. (Soldering required for switch) $5.49

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-outlet-power-strip-64144.html


You will need 1 foot lengths of the following 16 gage braided wire

6-black
5-white
2-green

Put it all in a DIY box (budget)or you can get one of these: $9.61


https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-CU-3283-Plastic-Utility/dp/B005T5A0W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hobby+box+bud+industries&qid=1570303560&sr=8-1

These work well but I’m starting to like my wood box made from old growth plywood salvaged from an old house. Plus it takes the build cost down $9 if you build your own.

Total cost $46
$55 if you buy the box

This picture shows a pigtail connection.

Basically, you will join all the black wires, and all the white wires together using a cap or better yet, a set of these. in those groups you will also add a new ~5" section of wire to connect the outlet.

I wouldn't suggest trying to get all 3 sets of the current wires to the outlet, because if you dont get it tight enough you have a point of failure. ARC = Fires

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

So you'd have to solder on a new connector. You can use a 5 pin harness, just splice both ends and combine with your current one that just has the bare wires exposed. Another option, if your encoder has the 2 pin connectors for UP, DN, RT, LT, then you could take four 2pin connector cables and solder those onto the exposed wire. 4 of the 2pin connectors need to connect to the black exposed wire (ground) and then the remaining 4 match up with the other 4 depending on color and direction which you can find out here.

If you can't solder, you can use Lever Nuts(they have 2, 3 and 5 sized connectors) or connectors like these or terminal blocks like these.

EDIT: Sorry for not giving credit where credit is due. This was mostly taken from this post here. It has a lot of pictures to refer to as well. Good luck!

1. It wouldn't be permitted to wire it this way in new construction.
   
2. Yes
   
3. Yes
   
   Here is what I would do. The grounds in the box are all tied together with a [copper crimp] (https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Twist-Copper-Sleeve-Connector-Blister/dp/B00CTU6TI6). You can get those at any home improvement store's electrical aisle. I would leave the grounds like they are, and crimp on an additional single ground wire to the existing group. Use that new wire to connect between all of the switch grounds.
   
   Edit: Also, make sure to use a proper crimper for the sleeve - don't use a regular pair of pliers or something.

I used this insulated cable connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDFXXA?ref=

It’s been fine so far - it clamps down on the wires so it doesn’t shake loose.

As a rule, right before moving in, I've switched out all the devices and rewired all the j-boxes in several homes I lived in and friends have lived in. Especially newer developments, they seem to use the cheapest, worst labor.

J-boxes aren't pigtailed, devices are backstabbed and used as splices, and some assholes in California are still using 3M inline splice/tap connectors in fucking Romex.

They are pc fans. I guess I am trying to find out if it is possible to use 2 of the 12v 1Amp drivers to run 3 fans at 12v and 666mA, instead of 1 driver that is currently running them at 12v 333mA to each fan. -- and keep from hitting them with 24v.

I am using wago connectors for my wiring. So if I just plugged in an additional driver, would this double the overall output to 24v 2Amps, or does it stay at 12v and just double the Amperage since each driver is only putting out 12v. ??

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

Forgive me if it sounds ignorant: is junction recommended for safety/neatness or is it a technical must, as opposed to twist-on wire nuts I thought of using? If it's a must, would it be something like these (terminal blocks):

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2
https://www.galco.com/buy/Bussmann/TB100-04

I'll mount the sticks on the outside of the rim, bringing the wires along the spokes to the center of the wheel.

If you get these, get the ones with the levers and not just the push-in ones. I got these and have never had a problem....

https://smile.amazon.com/Connector-Assortment-Compact-Connectors-PCT-212/dp/B075W7K1C2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lever+wire+nuts&qid=1550655993&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The light strip will come with a power supply. Ignore the fuse and holder, those only apply for cars. And yeah each button/strip segment will be connected independently to the power source.

Instead of soldering, an easy solution for a beginner to connect wires is using these. https://www.amazon.com/Lever-Nut-Conductor-Connectors-Terminal-Connector/dp/B07877JDSN

Buy a couple of Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. They are much easier to work with and they don’t mess up the tip of your wires in case you have to modify anything inside there in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_3/134-9665181-4117155?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_r=8b3b9b4d-824e-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=jREPn&pd_rd_wg=tI4UX&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN&psc=1&refRID=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=wago+413+10+pk&qid=1559161061&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

I prefer the 414 ones but couldn’t find them right now. They’re optimal in my view.

UOHGDPY Lever-Nut Wire connector,Compact wire connector,junction box classified conductor connector (SPL-3, 20PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF8PJ5V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lBiDCbPRWAHZJ

doubt it. phones can plug into cat5 jacks. they're backwards compatible so to speak. you can't run internet on them, but you can run voice. it's rapidly becoming the standard to simply use cat5 jacks everywhere. can you unscrew one and take a picture? i would be willing to bet all of your wires are punched down to those 2splitters and bridged together. You could easily replace them with a couple of these and use some of these to connect to one of these and rewire the jacks in using RJ 45 T568-b standard or follow this video a quick toolkit will cost about 20-35 and since you've already got the wiring and parts should be pretty cheap. make sure that if you're no longer using the landline to pull the wire from the box to the Network interface for the phones. (unless it's DSL). may want to add a shelf underneath the media panel, although i've seen some creative people tuck a shitload of stuff into those media panels and it look quite nice. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.

Edit: you can use one of these to quickly and easily trace out if all of those wires end in that cabinet or if some of them ARE going somewhere else. If they are I would check attic areas and other panels around the house. POSSIBLY they terminate outside, but doubt it since your Network interface box is in the basement.

Wago lever nuts are the way to go.

I'll even give you a link to the 5 port ones:
20 Amp 5 port.
30 Amp 5 port.

This is the exact product the OP needs:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47603-C5-Category-Voice-Expansion/dp/B00022742I/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1502805946

Is there stranded wire you could suggest for this application?

And yes I typically mount a junction box to a tree and use These or barrier strips inside the box. Then after running through ip68 strain reliefs I let the wire hang down to the ground and loosly zip tie the wire to said tree to help reduce some potential strain.

The whole system is kind of pieced togther throughout the years before I started using different types of wire and different types of connections everywhere. The old technician was very dilligent but our budget is very tight so he used whatever was available.

In an ideal world with a large budget I would tear everything out and build a single armored, hermetically sealed system that uses common connectors everywhere and is completely separate from the chairlift system, but that may not happen for a long time.

Good to hear! thanks for the reply. I will be making some adjustments soon. the radial brackets are mechanical lugs, https://www.amazon.com/Morris-90720-Mechanical-Connector-250MCM-Number-6/dp/B005GDG082

You are looking for a PAR36 (or PAR38 might fit?) with that base. I think there are some on Ebay right now PAR36 Westinghouse with Mogul End Pin, but my browser seems unable to open ebay at the moment.

The socket to accept the pins is a ceramic block with heat-resistant wires attached that connect to building wiring in a junction box behind the fixture -- if access to that part of the fixture is available, I'd consider replacing the socket within the fixture to something more likely to connect to a widely available LED spotlight(such as a GU10 base for an r111 LED spotlight), or else using ceramic wirenuts to retrofit a the new base, or else add on extensions of heat-resistant wire so that you can use 120v "connect wires under screws"-base par36 lamps.

If the housing is big enough to accept a PAR38 (4.75" diameter) and the tail on the 2-prong base is long enough with enough free space to connect a side-prong lamp, there are still incandescents available new.

Aluminum wiring is not so common as it was only put in during a handful of years, and not all electricians keep up with the latest information about it. The information on treatment has changed over the years, and they don't all stay on top of the recommendations.

You'd be best served requesting this. The connectors are not that expensive about ($2.60 to $2.92 each in quantity), but you probably need 3 per box, $8 versus maybe $1 for the caps.

They also take up a little more precious room in the box, and combined with the notion that the other stuff has been fine for years, it's no wonder that many electricians might be reluctant to choose them on their own. [Edit: just look at all the other recommendations in this thread.]

And if you have any high amp requirements for A/C, you probably need to get something like these:

Polaris Insulated connectors for AWG 4-14.. Now those are BIG. But you may have a direct line with no branches, in which case it's fine.

If you decide to DIY this (which is what I'll be doing after having had the house pigtailed with caps and anti-oxidant when I moved in over 20 years ago) you may wish to get a torque sensing screwdriver to torque them properly.

Ah makes sense, thanks for all the info!

So from a full day of research here's what I'm thinking:


2M of RBGW SK6812

Splitting them into 12 - 6 inch long strips. (Probably only use 6-8 but figured better to have more than not enough)

Battery power through 7.5A fuse (the strip is rated at 43W/m at 5V the next fuse is 10A so figured go lower to be safer?) and relay/switch tapped to ACC line run through 12v step down to 5v through ALITOVE bluetooth controller into wago connectors with diodes going to each strip



https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B079ZX7LY3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539729680&sr=8-2&keywords=rgbw%2Bsk6812&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Female-Connector-WS2812B-SK6812-RGBW/dp/B071H5XCN5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539737420&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+connector+3+pin

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539736197&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+step+down+to+5v

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Controller-SK6812-RGBW-Programmable/dp/B07G77YD9L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539734109&sr=8-1&keywords=12v++SK6812


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107SYYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe I am using the wrong terms. I use things that look like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Connectors-Terminals-Connection-Assortment/dp/B01MPXUEPO


Do you use electrical tape for anything other than fishing? Do you leave electrical tape installed anywhere?

The gizmo uses less than a watt, so heat shouldn't be an issue.

A person I work with suggested using lever nut wire connectors. I have no experience with them though.

If I go for the direct to plug route, then I'm going to have to move the outlet closer to the light or have a permanently connected extension cord (which I know is a bad idea). That's why I picked a 2-prong plug with a four foot wire.

Outdoor connectors have a gel in them to keep moisture out. [outdoor connectors](http://Waterproof Wire Connectors Kit Outdoor Electrical Wire Nuts 25 PCS(AWG # 22-8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJM22VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lXC2DbZ5PZN70)