Best lab multiparameter maters according to redditors
We found 112 Reddit comments discussing the best lab multiparameter maters. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 112 Reddit comments discussing the best lab multiparameter maters. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
There's a lot of useful info about growing in coco at Coco for Cannabis. He's all-in on using timers, automatic irrigation, and drain-to-waste with lots of runoff 100% of the time. It works really well, but it can be a bit tricky to get dialed in, and dealing with runoff can be a pain (especially if you care about disposing of it in an environmentally responsible way). I'd take his "you need to always water to 20% runoff" advice with a grain of salt; just try to water often enough that salts don't build up too much, and maybe err on the side of feeding with lower EC. Last grow I used automatic irrigation, but aimed for just barely having any runoff, and then hand-watered extra to get runoff once a week, when I felt like dealing with it. Definitely note his advice about
preparing and re-using coco, though. One of the best parts about coco is that you should be able to reuse it for a while.
There are other approaches, such as hempy buckets or bottom-feeding that may be simpler, particularly if you're doing a really small personal grow like I am. There's also an approach that combines them, with zero runoff. I haven't tried that one yet, but plant to try my next full size (not 1L SOG) run that way.
For nutrients, I don't know if it's available where you are, but I've been using Dyna-Gro: Foliage-Pro in veg, Bloom in flower. The only other thing I'd add is Pro-Tekt, a silica supplement that also works well as a pH Up. They're pretty inexpensive, simple to use, buffer pH nicely, great all-in-one option. People have also recommended MaxiBloom and Mega-Crop as other simple all-in-one fertilizers (both powdered). I can't personally speak to those, but worth looking into.
I use this EC/ppm meter and these pH test drops. I haven't tried using a pH meter, because the periodic calibration sounds like more trouble than it's worth. The EC meter and the test drops have worked fine for me, and in coco you'll probably only need to check pH of nutrient mixes, then compare EC going in (feed) and coming out (runoff). For that, the drops and that EC meter work great. (That EC meter probably isn't anything special, most cheap ones are probably fine.)
People will probably also recommend Grow Weed Easy, but some of their info about coco (particularly watering recommendations) is pretty dodgy. If you haven't done a full grow before, they have helpful info about harvesting and curing, though.
Strain recommendations will depend on a ton on personal taste, but I particularly like Mephisto's Fugue State. :) Good luck!
This
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MW102-PH-Temperature-Meter/dp/B001DTNDME/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668834182&pd_rd_wg=9CtKr&pf_rd_r=NCR05BC9Z88V201TP5R5&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B001DTNDME&pd_rd_w=7nCR6&pf_rd_i=milwaukee+ph+meter&pd_rd_r=AXE04PGSEQN7Q65JE2K1&ie=UTF8&qid=1478860555&sr=1
The temperature probe means you can measure mash ph without cooling it down, as it will adjust the measurement according to the temperature.
We have a hanna version of this ph meter And it has lived a hard life, and still goes.
To be honest there really is no such thing as a good $25 pH meter. Save a bit more cash and look into purchasing a proper unit at around the $100 price point.
I recommend the following meters.
Omega PHH-7011
Milwaukee MW102
Edit: Meant to say MW102 and not the MW101 since it has ATC but it's good practice to always if possible try to get your solution to be measured as close to your calibration temperature as you can.
Order this: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B007KDYOMU/ and keep track of TDS level from time to time.
Do you already have an Aquaguard?
I have this meter.
It was given to me by my sister who actually works in a lab setting for her job. She indicated its the best balance of price/performance you can buy. Its not as cheap as some of the others, but the probe itself is a very high quality and supposed to last a decent amount of time with proper care.
https://www.amazon.de/EDIFIER-R1700BT-Studio-Bluetooth-Lautsprechersystem-Infrarot-Fernbedienung/dp/B00MXY21LW
I thought your prices on Testo 550s were high, but realized your were from Canada.
You could still hit up this website and see if they ship to Canada.
Testo 550 with hoses
Also I have this for Temp, wet bulb, & relative humidity. I love it
UEI DTH35
Not sure how small you need but the Edifier R1700BT are known to be really good value and to sound great.
Alternatively, if you can't fit those, something like the Mackie CR4 are also a decent option. They will lack on bass compared to the edifiers and have less features. Mackie also do a smaller 3" version (CR3) however if you're not wanting a subwoofer, the bass will be lacking.
I've been using this and liking it Apera Instruments PC60 Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOIKA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here you go.
Apera win
https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-Conductivity-Multi-Parameter-Replaceable/dp/B01ENFOIKA?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_14574843011
HM Digital win win
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Com-300-Temp-Meter/dp/B075LRLVL2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2593569011
For what purpose? You can send a plastic bottle to Ward Labs and they will have results to you in a few days. You can grab a cheap TDS meter on Amazon if you just want to know how the RO system is working.
A nice middle of the road option
Edifier R1700BT
If you want something cool and different
Edifier Luna E25
I currently run a Milwaukie 102 PH meter that runs to +/- .002, so I typically round to the nearest .05 and call that close enough. .03 would be nothing, but I am seeing more of a .2-.3 swing from what should be happening in theory. I'm just curious as to why, because in theory I should be seeing the calcium additions in the mash help precipitate out more alkalinity and from Maillard reactions in the boil.
This far into flower there is not a whole lot you can do to bring them back. I think "a bust" might be a bit dramatic, but you'll definitely see reduced yield and quality. I'd let them keep going awhile, harvest and toke up (or make them into hash).
Looking over the pictures from your recent posts I'd hazard a guess that it was PH all along, causing nutrient lock out and deficiencies.
I ALWAYS do PH-ing and flushing before I try adding any nutes or supplements. More often then not, that will fix your problem and once she's out of stress and PH'd proprerly you can slowly get back to the normal routine.
I use a PH meter similar to this one and keep it calibrated with this stuff. It works well on runoff and for PH-ing your water and nutrient solution.
A little tip about testing runoff: Only the first few ounces of water that run off can give you an accurate PH, after that there is so much water flooding through that the actual PH of the soil will no longer be represented by the runoff. Always test the first bits of runoff, calibrate your flush to fix it, let it dry for a few days and do it again.
Good luck!
If you're looking to buy a pH meter, I would recommend this one. A meter with a detachable probe will last longer than one that's built in, the electrode should be replaced every few years. You'll also want a meter that has automatic temperature compensation and a separate temperature probe (pH is a function of temperature). You will also need calibration standards for pH 7.01 and pH 4.01 and electrode storage solution. A small quantity of these usually come with the meter but it's good to have more on hand. Make sure you read up on how to use a meter as well, taking accurate pH readings is a bit more involved than accurately reading temperature. If your product is chunky, also make sure to separate the chunks and bulk liquid and measure their pH's separately to ensure the recipe is safe.
I just got my PH Meter the other day too. I got the Milwaukee MW102. Brewed a Belgian Witbeir with it on Friday and nailed my PH as well.
It look like you are doing great! Sometimes hiccups in the process will elongate things but you will learn and, in most cases, do so without too much detriment to your final harvest.
A bit of advice, if I may. Assuming you arent already doing so, grab an inexpensive TDS meter and start measuring/recording the EC of your inflow and outflow fertigation solution every time you feed. Once you start keeping track of these metrics you can stop guessing about whether you are under/overfeeding your gals. Unlike pH meters, TDS meters are not comprised of complex or terribly sensitive components, so spending a lot on a high dollar product is not necessary.
There are general guidelines about ppm ranges for both autos and photoperiods based on where they are in their lifecycle. As long as you keep within those ranges, it's rare to run into nutrient issues.
I also like to read GrowDiaries for the strains I'm growing to see how other folks fared with the same genetics and what pitfalls they ran into in their process.
Good luck with your garden, friend!
Milwaukee MW102 PH and Temperature Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DTNDME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fpoJAbPKH7DFE
They are called frequency counters.
https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Precision-Frequency-Counter-Digital/dp/B00MDVN4R0
I like the Hanna HI98128. It's water proof, floats, and has ATC as well as a hold function. If you don't need .01 accuracy, you can go down to the HI98127 for about $15 less. I personally have the HI98128 and it has worked very well for me. The electrode on the Hanna's are replaceable as well and run about $40.
Is linearity assumed between the two calibration points? What about beyond these ranges?
I have also seen sensors with more functionality (and price to boot), such as: http://www.amazon.com/ND1100042-Nutra-Dip-continuous-meter-Temperature/dp/B0001XGQ2C
Any idea how or what the 'nutrient' meter measures? Is this something easily DIY-able, such that each component could be recreated via arduino at a lower cost?
>...reliable, cost friendly
Pick one. You're either getting a reliable one, or a cheap one. A good pH meter is going to cost you good money; and it should.
If you buy a good one from the beginning, you won't have to buy another one again. Trust me on this, I am speaking from experience.
If you buy a cheap one, you'll be buying cheap ones to replace them until you've paid more for 5 shitty meters than if you had just bought a good one at the beginning. Also, cheap meters are FAR less accurate, are harder to calibrate & break rather easily.
I bought this Hanna Combo meter like 5 years ago and it works the same as it did when I bought it. I've had to replace the probe on it once (due to my own incompetence) but other than that, it's been perfect.
TL:DR Buy a good meter once and never think about this again.
An external DAC is nice to have but not essential, especially in a budget set up. That mobo also seems to have some sort of upgraded and shielded onboard sound chip so it should perform better than your average one and be less noisy, i'd say you can get away without one for now then maybe get one down the track if you feel you need it. The Khadas Tone Board is a $99USD option that outperforms many other DACs in it's price range.
Also when you say you prefer non-powered as there will be less cables, that isn't necessarily the case. With passive speakers you'll have to have an amp with 1 power cable plus 1 interconnect cable from the PC to the amp then 2 speaker cables from amp back to the speakers making a total of 4. With budget powered speakers you'll have 1 power cable from the active speaker to the wall, 1 interconnect cable from the PC to the speaker with the amp in it and then an umbilical cable from the main speaker to the slave, so you'll actually end up with one less in that scenario as you'll have 3 instead of 4. The Edifier Studio 2.0 are $164 and a bit more powerful than those other ones I linked if you can stretch the budget a tiny bit. Scroll down and read the reviews.
Definitely stay away from Logitech.
These Edifiers would probably be my first choice.
Since this is a system for a PC, I would be inclined to recommend these, though there are many more options to consider. If this system will be PC and PC only, the following Active Speakers will do. Remember Active Speakers have built in amps -
Edifier R2000DB - £235/pair - 4.5 Star Rating on Amazon -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EDIFIER-EDFR2000DB-Home-Audio-Speakers/dp/B00O3K7GP0
Very High Power, and has the additional feature of an Optical Input, plus a Remote Control, and Bluetooth capability so you can Stream music from your Smart Phone or other Smart Device, and if you computer has Bluetooth capability, you can stream audio wirelessly.
Though I don't have a link, the Edifier R2000DB is also available in Walnut (woodgrain) similar to the speaker shown below. This is a relatively common speakers, and should be available in Poland and/or Germany.
Here is a alternative that is similar but lacking the Optical Digital Input -
Edifier R1700BT - £130/pair -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1700BT-loudspeaker-loudspeakers-Built/dp/B00MXY21LW
Now if you want an Amp and Speaker separately, probably the best low cost amp would be the Yamaha AS201 -
Yamaha AS201 - £160 -
https://www.richersounds.com/product/amplifiers-receivers/yamaha/as201/yama-as201-blk
And for a computer, the Q Acoustic 2020i bookshelf speaker would be excellent -
Q Acoustic 2020i - £100/pair -
https://www.richersounds.com/product/standmount-speakers/q-acoustics/2010i-gr/qaco-2010i-graph
The current model is the Q Acoustic 3020, so if you can find them the older 2020i, which are still very good, are available at very nice discounts.
I have a pair of 3020 on my computer and they do an excellent job.
The Whardedale 220 are a very well regarded speaker, but they push the budget up to about £170/pair. Though I'm not sure of availability in Poland, the Cambridge Audio SX50 and SX60 are good speakers at deep discounts -
https://www.richersounds.com/product/standmount-speakers/wharfedale/diamond-220/whar-diam-220-blk
https://www.richersounds.com/product/standmount-speakers/cambridge-audio/sx50/camb-sx50-dk-wal
https://www.richersounds.com/product/standmount-speakers/cambridge-audio/sx60/camb-sx60-dk-wal
Though you are more likely to find the Wharfedale or the Q Acoustic in Poland or Germany than the Cambridge.
The Edifier R2000DB are nice in that they have an Optical Digital Input, which means, at some point in the future, they could be moved to the TV for TV/Movie watching. Plus, you can Stream Music to the Speakers from your Smart Phone or other Smart Device (bluetooth).
NOTE: Both the Edifier R2000DB and the Edifier R1700BT have REMOTE CONTROLS, which isn't so important if you are sitting at the computer desktop, but for TV, a Remote is a must, and very handy for general music listening.
The separate Amp and Speakers would give you a system that could potentially go beyond a PC system.
Here are the full specs on the Yamaha AS201 -
https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/a-s201/index.html
Approximately 100w/channel. Phono Input.
I'm not sure about the Market in Germany or Poland, bit if you can find them, also consider the Yamaha RS202, I don't think it has a Phono Input, but it does have Bluetooth capability. If you can find it, it is also a very good Receiver to consider.
Here are the specs on the Yamaha RS202 Receiver with Bluetooth -
https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/r-s202d/index.html
In the UK, this has DAB and DAB+ Radio, don't know if that is relevant in Poland.
But there are a few choice, let me know what you think.
I use this one. It's not lab grade but the probe is replaceable. It also has a temp probe so that you can see when your sample is cool (so you dont fry the probe).
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MW102-PH-Temperature-Meter/dp/B001DTNDME
I used to use a pocket pH meter... it wasn't very accurate in that you could test the same sample twice and get a .1 difference in the reading which I found frustrating. To me the Milwaukee is a "good enough for homebrew" choice. Not a throwaway but not lab quality.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MW102-PH-Temperature-Meter/dp/B001DTNDME
It's a bit expensive, but does a fantastic job!
I have the Hanna, works great. ATC and waterproof.
You'll need the buffer solution as well to calibrate it every once in a while.
There is also a storage solution, but I can't remember if it comes with it or not.
I recommend checking out this guide.
You give enough solution to get 10-20% run off. Try to keep your tent at 80F and 40% RH. This'll make your plants drink the most and thus grow the quickest. If you're using coco get a ppm meter and measure what you put in and out.
Head over to coco for cannabis for some great coco specific tips.
EC is Electrical conductivity. It measures the quantity of dissolved stuff, mostly salts, in the water and is a measurement of the strength of the nutrient solution. If you water with too high an EC you get nute burn. It's not actually nute "burn" but a result of the plant not being able to uptake water through osmosis.
Cannabis roots consume a lot of oxygen which they can not do if the soil is saturated. The soil MUST be allowed to become quite dry between watering so the roots can uptake oxygen.
GL!
Edit: This is the meter I use.
It's one of the things a lot of growers don't bother with but I consider it a "must have" meter. As important as pH.
Your best bet is to buy water testing strips off Amazon and test your water. Then adjust based on that. Don't just assume your Brita is doing enough. When you spend that much on an espresso machine ensure the water is good.
Test Strips
Water Quality Tester
Anti Scale Pouch
Edit: Formating
Cheap PPM Meter
I’ve got one of these. They’re cheap but seem to be accurate and simple to use. I really like it. If you want a recommendation for a modestly priced but awesome Ph meter I can link to one too.
It’s likely the stress of transitioning that’s causing it. If you want a good way to jump start your flowering, put the plants in complete darkness for 24 hours, then put them under the 12/12 light schedule.
I fucked up on my current grow by accidentally doing that. I had an issue out in my grow shed so I had to move the plants to my garage. It wasn’t supposed to be more than a couple hours. Turned into a full day in the garage. The indica plant went straight into flowering. So now here I am.
probably? not sure... you have one that has a pen with a bulb and at the top its a big yellow box iwth a LCD readout? I am not really sure how those work to be honest... I have a pinpoint pH probe that stays in the water the whole time. I have a hanna pen tester that the cap has a little sponge in it to hold some special liquid to keep it from going bad... i dont have the liquid, i test and compare it to my pinpoint unit to make sure its not out of whack ;) luckly they were part of a buyout of a reefer and all his gear, as I would never drop the kinda cash on this hanna tester (hi 98130)
One thing I don't understand about this sub is the need for high priced PH testers.
I prefer to keep it simple, affordable and reliable. I've been using this for years with no problems.
In addition you can buy a cheap PPM meter if you need one. I use this one but there are cheaper options out there.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Active/dp/B00MXY21LW
They're mad tings, love them.
You cannot do what you want to do with that speaker set. They are designed to only be used as a set. The speakers get their power from the subwoofer box. You can't just connect them separately. I would suggest either you just stick with what you have or one of these options: 1. get new passive speakers and an integrated amplifier(example SMSL), 2. get a new set of better active speakers (example Edifier)
​
For a turntable, make sure to get one WITH a built-in phono-preamp as most amplifiers you will be considering will not have one included. (example Dual)
I'm not a chemist, so I could be wrong, but (and it's hard to find sources on this):
"Active charcoal carbon filters are most effective at removing chlorine, particles such as sediment, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), taste and odor from water. They are not effective at removing minerals, salts, and dissolved inorganic substances."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_filtering (with no further sourcing).
Doing the test myself and using this tool, water on both sides of my GAC filter is ~200 ppm TDS (with water reports for the area stating that about ~130 of that is CaCO3).
Other semi-sources claim the same (e.g. https://www.livestrong.com/article/193977-what-do-carbon-filters-remove-from-water/). I haven't found anything that says they do lower TDS. If all the above is true, even if there's some interaction between the GAC media and calcium in the water, it's probably misleading to claim that "charcoal filters do definitely absorb calcium from the water".
Could you point me to sources that say otherwise? No problem if you don't have the time, I'm just trying to stay informed.
I got this one off amazon. Haven't really done extensive calibrating but it reads low in spring water and high in my tank water so...it seems good enough to give a ballpark reading.
I have been very happy with this meter(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DTNDME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I think i got it for like $80 though 3 years ago. I tried 3 other meters and returned them for just not being consistent enough. I'd say just spend the money on a decent/good meter and do it once, instead of going through multiple cheap ones. I agree with /u/mmussen though, your first two bullet points go hand in hand :)
are you dead-set on computer speakers, or are you willing to upgrade to something a bit more substantial?
the suggestion I leave often is to get a Lepai amp and the cheapest bookshelves you can find on Amazon. I don't know what online stores Poland has, but I'm assuming you can order off of amazon.de
powered monitors are another option, which combined the simplicity of computer speakers with the sound quality that bookshelves provide. this seems to be a decent pair in your budget, but due to the language barrier, I'm having trouble navigating the german site
I see, makes sense. So, do you think I should be feeding more? Right now I'm giving roughly about 65% strength. Should I be giving 100%? Or slowly up it over time?
Also wondering if you know or if someone else knows about keeping my EC under 1500uS, at 100% strength. I measured this about 2200us (tap water, general hydroponics grow, bloom, micro and cal-mag) . Would a water filter or reverse osmosis system be an effective way to lower tap water EC to an acceptable range? I'm not sure it's possible at 100% strength because even if it was 0 uS water going in, it looks like it would measure at 1775uS. Maybe my EC meter is giving very inaccurate readings?
Edit: What I'm using to measure EC:
https://www.amazon.com/Lxuemlu-Professional-Temperature-0-9999ppm-Aquariums/dp/B079DN9DRS
EDIFIER Studio R1700BT - Kit d'enceintes 2.0 Bluetooth (66 Watts) Avec télécommande IR, idéal pour TV, PC, Notebook, Tablette, Smartphone etc.
de Edifier
Permalien : http://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00MXY21LW
I have this Milwaukee MW802. It does everything. Comes with a full complement of solutions and buffers. Easy to calibrate. I've had it for close to two years and only have to calibrate it every other month or so. Uses AA batteries and I got a year out of the last set.
Milwaukee MW-102
I didn't realize you'd already ordered the items in your list. That pH pen should work OK, but you'll need to calibrate it every couple of weeks. THIS kit has 4.0 and 7.0 calibration solutions and the storage solution. You definitely need those items to keep the pH pen operational (same goes for ANY pH meter). And you still need a tds/ppm meter... THIS cheap one should do.
I would invest in a decent portable pH meter
A good set of Hydrometers, maybe even an Ebulliometer if you can find a reasonable one.
Also, a rig/stirrer/flask and reagents for testing sulfur additions accurately is insanely helpful.
Temperature control is nice, maybe a jacketed 50 gallon tank of some sort?
Or the tri model ? http://www.amazon.com/ND1100042-Nutra-Dip-continuous-meter-Temperature/dp/B0001XGQ2C These are the cheapest digital continues PH meters I have found.
This one works great
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Dissolved-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B007KDYOMU
I'm debating between two PH meters: The Milwaukee MW101 or the Milwaukee MW102. Does anyone own either? Can anyone recommend a meter that is under $100 that they love?
If you can't save up for a better AT, then the downsides to a lower budget turntable are higher wow and flutter and speed variation or speed drift. You don't need 78 unless you plan on collecting vintage 78s.
I don't know how much better the CET-500 is than the 1by1s, they are all lowest budget entry level but they are a step up from all in one suitcase players.
The Lenco L-3808 £179 seems like it is a step up from the CET-500.
If you can't go £249+ for one of the better ATs, the Fluance RT80 is £199.
These popular Edifier R1280T speakers should be noticeably better than the 1by1 speakers. Or the slightly better Edifier R1700BT adds bluetooth. Or use WiFi streaming with a Chromecast Audio which can be added to any speaker or amp with an Aux input.
Or SMSL SA-36A mini amp with Mordaunt Short M10 speakers and Speaker Wire, then 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.
Or look for a used stereo or AV receiver or integrated amp and some used passive speakers.
Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.
Probably chlorine, you can also get one of these to check for ppm Water Quality Tester, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073713G5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5P4xCbVFMJWFQ
I was looking at these online EC Meter at Amazon
Will eventually get one but trying to limit the gear for the first couple of runs. With gardening I have been going slowly to spread out the joy of learning and experimentation !
I just looked into buying one last year. There's not much under 40 that gives two decimal digits with good accuracy. I ended up inheriting this one that is $97. I'm not convinced that 2 digits is necessary for brewing, but I'm very happy with the Hanna.
If you're just getting into water chemistry and are looking to save money, I'd go with something like this. Good luck!
I am a chemist but my old man isn't. I bought this meter and pre-mixed buffer sol'n for him:https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI98128-Temperature-Tester/dp/B0085WV6GM
I helped him calibrate it over the phone and it's been working well for him, I'll test his beers on my expensive bench top meter and the meters always match +/- 0.03, which is definitely close enough for brewing. The meter has a replaceable electrode and a decent warranty, and it holds a decent calibration when stored for weeks, obviously works best when calibrated every use. Only complaint is the little cap to store it submerged in solution could be better designed.
I got mine used on craigslist for $25 :( It needed a battery and to be calibrated. Mine works great but YMMV... (judging by the 17 reviews and only 3 stars) Once I have the extra money just floating around I want to get a benchtop ph meter with the probe you always have to keep wet. I use them at work and they are so freaking nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Waterproof-Conductivity-Tester/dp/B0085WV46O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457235357&sr=8-1&keywords=hanna+ec+combo
I've never used either of those. This is the one I have, Got it based on the recommendation of a few pros I know
https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI98128-Temperature-Tester/dp/B0085WV6GM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493321946&sr=8-3&keywords=hanna+ph+meter
Get the best. It's worth its money all day long if you are serious about growing plants. It's what we use commercially in the field.
https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Waterproof-Temperature-Calibration/dp/B003L77LKG
Was it this one? I've been thinking about grabbing one, or at least something similar at that price level, before blowing $300+ The Nutra-Dip one is a half-way point and has a little bit better of a rating, but I'm not sure what the break even point is in terms of cost vs. benefit.
Thanks for the amp suggestions.
How's the Edifier R1700BT? It has a built in amp, and comes with cables and adapters, so at £127 it's slightly cheaper. Has anyone got any good info on it?
Actually, that model does not have a DAC. Sorry. I forgot. If you look at powered speakers and they do not have some kind of digital input, then the speakers don't have a DAC built in.
Here is a model with a DAC: https://www.amazon.es/EDIFIER-Studio-R1700BT-altavoces-Bluetooth/dp/B00MXY21LW/
Considering a good grower gets 1g/of LED real watt, you will not meet your expectations of 10-32 ounces with 600$, I am afraid. But have no fear. I am pretty good at budgets and enjoy a challenge so let's see what kind of setup we can generate.
Light - Your biggest and most important expenditure - 250$CADamazon.ca/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Function/dp/B01G8GDV32/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3G9VL9397BJLG&keywords=viparspectra&qid=1570768902&sprefix=vipars%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-5
I am an HPS grower that is actively is looking for an LED way out of the cooling I need to provide. I have read amazing things about viparspectra. This light has a real draw of 260W so you will be able to pull a half pound if you dial your environment right.
Pots - Fabric pots are the shit - 20$ CAD
https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=vivosun+5+gallon+fabric+pots&crid=2D5PJJD9PR0B3&sprefix=vivosun+5+gall%2Caps%2C172&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14
I've grown in clay pots, nursery pots, dwc, rockwool cubes and I always go back to promix. And now I use Smart/Fabric pots. They are the tits of my life, ferreal. The handles help a lot.
Dehumidifier - You said you live in a bay area so i assume its humid af - 70$ CAD
https://www.amazon.ca/hOmeLabs-Small-Dehumidifier-Bathroom-Closet/dp/B072C3NMK1/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3RME7E0CJ86SV&keywords=dehumidifiers&qid=1570769281&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=dehu%2Clawngarden%2C173&sr=1-4
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Nutes - I've used these and have been successful. then again ive used 20-20-20 and been successul - 51$ CAD
https://www.amazon.ca/General-Hydroponics-Florabloom-Floramicro-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=veg+nutrients&qid=1570769329&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3
PH adjusters - 30$CAD
amazon.ca/Standard-Hydroponics-Nutrients-Fertilizer-Gardening/dp/B07S1DFL3S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ph+-&qid=1570769376&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-1
PH Tester - You fucking need this, hanna is a+ - 140$ CAD
https://www.amazon.ca/Hanna-Waterptroof-Pen-98127-pHep4/dp/B000CNKWNK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13VXDFKB7DUMQ&keywords=hanna+ph+meter&qid=1570769430&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=hanna%2Clawngarden%2C170&sr=1-2
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We are at 561$ CAD so 425 USD
Buy cheap ass dirt or go dig some up. I've used garden dirt successfully indoors but you will have to spend extra money fighting bests. Get bagged dirt.
5 gallon bucket to run your sauce - like 5$CAD - go to a hardware store
Hooks and chain - Max 10$ at a harware store
You still havent answered my question about smell. A carbon filter and inline fan combo will run you up another 200$ CAD
so like 650$ USD.
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Sorry I'm Canadian.
Does he have a pH meter? If not, I would highly recommend one. I would choose Hanna Instruments.
Edit: I have this one, but they do make cheaper ones.
Hanna Instruments HI98128
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085WV6GM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pvnuybYX28YJM
I'm using this guy. I tried in the boil as well as a partially cooled sample of the wort I took out incase the temp was too much for it to adjust.
I understand that most adjustments are for mashing but I've also read that sampling the boil can help balance the acidity/alkalinity of the final product. Extract is supposed to have this covered (I'm using distilled water) and found out that it measured 4.8.
Its not the end of the world, and I have the feeling I'm over thinking it. Just wanted to know what was going on. Thanks and have a happy new year!
I use a Milwaukee MW102. I don't know if it's the best, but it's worked for me and seems to be a popular choice:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MW102-PH-Temperature-Meter/dp/B001DTNDME
Grazie, penso che andrò sull'attivo allora e mi comprerò ampli + passive pi avanti quando avrò uno stipendio mio.
Ti chiedo giusto un paio di cose, la differenza fra R1280T e R1280DB sta solo nel bluetooth?
E poi non capisco cosa abbiano queste due casse in più o in meno: R1700Bt e R1010Bt.
yes.i used a bag i have for scuba diving. and hydro.. very little nutrients at the moment.. until an hr ago. i have this coming be here this week.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ691QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ph was high like 6.7ish.. when i added the nutes an hour ago.. going to check in a bit. temp is 75ish.. i have a heater in it. in a tent. with exhaust fan..
Hanna Instruments pH/EC/TDS Meter for Growers:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L77LKG/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/182-6154634-5974831?redirect=true&ref_=wms_ohs_product_T2
Hello! Sure i can post a pic but um.. how do I do that exactly? Haha dont know how. I searched on Amazon this is what it looks like -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CNKWNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1491366497&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hanna+ph+meter
Mine does have a plastic build, but it doesnt seem flimsy naman. Hanna is the brand.
But just to clarify - my dad didnt buy this from Lazada. He bought it from a friend from the US. What I saw on Lazada are pH strips.
Regarding how to test - at first I also wasnt sure how to test so I tried two methods:
They both yielded the same results, thankfully. So I just use the product in palm method.
The TDS of the RO (Bought from LFS) is 10 ppm. The Meter I use is: TDS Meter
https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-98128W-Temperature-Solutions/dp/B003IKNJIE/ref=pd_sbs_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENMRQP5GTTRHX2WYW9GH
I'm using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073713G5F/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is cheaply made, but the EC value it gives matched the lab work I had one on my tap water within a few percent.
How do you like that Apera meter?