Best lab tweezers according to redditors
We found 30 Reddit comments discussing the best lab tweezers. We ranked the 12 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 30 Reddit comments discussing the best lab tweezers. We ranked the 12 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Not to worry, they're all still waiting for their Amazon order to arrive, so they won't be needing this quite yet.
>Nah, regular tweezers are less narrow most of the time.
these suckers are my go to, are $5 a pair, are insanely strong, yet are so dang narrow that I regularly stab myself to the point of drawing blood while aimlessly twiddling them
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6
but yeah, the msafe jack is a series of tiny neodiddlys covered by a thin piece of plastic. but yeaher, if you have five bones to spare and want to expereince the best bang for your buck tweezers money can buy, I can't endorse these guys hard enough. I used to be big on aven which are a budget japanese brand and cost 5X more, yet aren't as well built or rugged. CHP for life
whaaaat? thats not possible! haha, i have a pair that is really pointy, BUT, they dont "grip" and when i'm trying to pull something out, it just slips right thru... i need a pair that HOLDS! ive gotta find out what kind these are!
EDIT: adding a link - wonder if these would work?! http://www.amazon.com/Marrywindix-Tweezers-Non-magnetic-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454113263&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+tweezer
Honestly it's not that bad, and it will definitely be a skill that you will need to know. Your cockatiel is practically guaranteed to get the night frights in the middle of a molt on a Friday night and it's more kind to the bird to take care of it right away. It's like pulling out a loose tooth when you were a kid, the lead-up to the pulling is much worse than the actual event and the bird will feel so much better afterwards (and bleed a lot less after the blood feather is gone). You mainly need a towel, someone who can hold the bird firmly yet gently, and most importantly a good pair of tweezers. I bought this set several years ago and it's my go-to set for both blood feathers in my birds and splinters in my fingers.
Someone posted what I use but deleted their comment so:
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Tweezers: https://www.amazon.ca/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6/
I use a hot air station: https://www.amazon.ca/WEP-858D-Soldering-Station-Suitable/dp/B0055B6NGE/
Pcb Holder: https://www.amazon.ca/Circuit-Holder-Adjustable-Soldering-Repairing/dp/B075DCBR24/
Microscope to find bad joints and loose solder balls: https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Microscope-Flexible-Observation-Magnification/dp/B00XNYXQHE/
Solder paste: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/soldering-desoldering-rework-products/solder/262?FV=ffe00106%2C2dc186b&quantity=0&ColumnSort=-1000009&page=1&pageSize=25&pkeyword=solder+paste
I like these to clean paste or flux https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Tapered-Cotton-Length/dp/B008OA8488/
Conical Tip for small pin fixing https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/578-ETS
Beveled tip for drag soldering if needed https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/577-EW-511
ST-Link-v2 (programmer) https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/ST-LINK-V2/497-10484-ND/2214535
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What I do is put a glob of paste on a piece of paper and dip the syringe tip lightly to make a smaller glob hang off the tip, then place the small glob from the tip on the pad I'm doing. I know this isn't the right way but its the easiest I've done.
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When the pieces are in place I set the hot air to 450ish and lower air flow so it doesn't blow pieces off the board. When the solder solidifies most the time everything gets aligned to the pads (capacitors will randomly stick straight up but is fixed by poking it with tweezers)
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I start with Ic's then check under the microscope for bridges or loose solder balls. then resistors/caps. Double check again for anything wrong and if its good program it with the st-link. Once thats good I put on the pots/buttons/leds
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For faceplates, I tried at first to 3d print them. Didn't look the best, made it look cheap. So I just order faceplates when I order the pcb's now. They cost a lot but I want them to look nice when done.
For disassembly, I'll cast another vote for the 64 bit iFixit set. Bits are reasonably durable CrV. For individual bits that wear out quicker (looking at you, Y000), they also sell 4mm replacement bits if you don't feel like abusing their rather generous replacement program. The handle is second to none, but it's worth noting it is a bit beefier than the Wiha 40mm drivers.
If I were trying to do a repair as efficiently as possible, I'd use the iFixit set 100 times out of 100 for disassembly. Wiha is a bit more agile on the reassembly where the handle diameter doesn't matter as much. I've bought another iFixit aluminum handle to keep my PH00/PH000 from needing to be removed all the time and basically mothballed the Wihas and treated the bits as semi-disposable. That's not to say the iFixit bits are trash, but when you work hundreds of screws a day for a month that are of varying conditions due to previous repair, burning a Y000/PH000 a month isn't the worst thing in the world.
If you treat tweezers reasonably well and don't use them to pry every-fucking-thing, I love Hakko's sub-brand, CHP. 7A-SA for common repairs (screens, charge ports, etc) and 3C-SA for microsoldering applications.
Last, but not least: If you're doing iPhone standoff screws (i4/i4s/i5/i5c/i5s/i6(+)/i7(+)/i8(+)) with a flathead, buy a standoff bit/driver. Now. Even the cheap $2 ones put a flathead to shame. You'll kick yourself for not getting one sooner. The newest revision of the 64-bit iFixIt set includes one, but there are a lot of early adopters that are out on the cold on this one. Just buy the bit already. Seriously.
I bought a full set of artkal minis and I love them, I like the smaller sized sprites because they are closer to how they look on a TV screen. It took about a month for them to ship to the US from China, so buying every color you need in a single order is definitely preferred.
What I've noticed when working with minis is they take a lot more concentration to place a bead. It also seems to take me about 2x the amount of time to finish a project just because precisely setting the bead on the pegboard takes more time. Yes when you melt them the beads melt a lot faster compared to the normal sized beads, so be cautious until you get used to how quickly they melt.
Using needlepoint tweezers is pretty much required for minis, they're just too small to place by hand. I bought [this set] (https://www.amazon.com/GWHOLE-Precision-Anti-static-Stainless-Electronics/dp/B01MA5CCDO) and I prefer the curved tweezers instead of the straight ones. If you bought the [perler brand tweezers] (https://www.perler.com/perler-storefront-catalog/products/categories/mini-beads/mini-beads-tweezers_80-22801/), they'll probably work just fine, it's just a matter of preference if you like curved or straight.
Whenever I iron I use the tape method and haven't had any problems. I always recommend that method for everyone.
For flush cutters/snippers (don't need two tools really) get either:
Even the cheapest ESD tweezers are ok for holding components, get a kit that includes angled ones if you're going to do a bunch of SMD.
These are good also: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6
Thank you!
I didn't take any other pictures but my next model(f4 Phantom) I will make sure to take WIP pictures.
I watched a lot of youtube and read through forums for the technique. These type of tweezers and these sanding kind sticks really helped. I spray painted it all gloss black. I used really thin layers of exhaust mixed with the cockpit paint for the metal.
Then I lightly sanded highlights and used a silver pencil to make weathering. The seat is rust and orange with some light gray wash.
Masking tape behind the metal etch let me move them around and set them all up before I glued them in. After everything was done in I ran another dark wash and lightly sealed it with flat clear spray can on everything but the instrument panels.
Thanks again, you made my day.
I bought all my materials from Amazon and I've done about 3 Mods.
Heres a little documentation of my 1st one.
Seiko 5 Mod; PAM Cali Dial & Sword Hands & some more photos
Some things that I suggest you get before starting.
Let me know if you've any questions, I'd be willing to help you out and answer them to the best of my ability :)
Cheers!
Eduard and Montex sell pre-cut masks. These save time but cost $$. In my opinion for a fighter plane they're pretty extravagant. For a bomber with perhaps 40+ panes of glass, then a good idea.
You have a few options.
The conventional way is to cut your own masks and then apply them. The two things that will make your life easier are Japanese yellow tape (sold as 'Tamiya tape' but I recently bought it at the hardware store as Bear brand 'Painters Magic' tape) and fresh razors. The tape has the best charateristics for masking, in particular it cuts cleanly and can be rubbed down at the edges and won't lift. The fresh razor is essential to cut it cleanly the first time.
If you're skilled you can cut the shapes to suit each pane. I am not, and I usually start by cutting a few long strips about 3mm wide, and a few squares a bit smaller than the pane. The grid squares on most cutting mats are very useful here. Measuring with a small steel rule, I cut the strips and apply them to the edges of the panes. Small, precision tweezers are a big help. Then fill in the centres with squares or rubber mask. For triangular panes like most fighters have up front, I cut a few different ones and often end up using a different one in each corner.
The point is, tape is cheap, so put some down on your mat, cut many slightly different shapes that look right, then use the best ones. Then, run everything down before painting. The problem with my approach is not leaving any gaps with all the patches.
Another method is to deliberately apply too big a patch on the pane, rub it down, than carefully cut along the edge with your razor. Some guys use an adhesive-backed foil for this, I have never tried the foil. This produces a very good result because the edge is rubbed down better, but it takes a lot of skill to avoid slip-ups.
Okay, so much for the conventional.
Some modellers get excellent results painting blank decal film, cutting it into strips, and applying that. This will of course work fine for brush painting.
As you have guessed these other methods assume use of an airbrush (or spray can). You can use them with hand brushing. Get most of the paint off the brush so it's not too wet. Apply like this a few times, building the paint up.
A couple of notes on painting canopies: First, make a final check your masks are rubbed down and sealed. Then, the first coat should be your 'inside colour' if you want to be really pedantic. Otherwise, start with black or paint black second. This is to stop light shining through your canopy frames. Your first coats should be misted on and the paint not allowed to get too wet, as this will creep under the masking. Once you have a few coats on, you can just paint the frames along with the rest of the plane. Try not to let the paint get too thick, though, as it can chip and flake when you lift your masks. Masks stick better and are more flexible in warm weather. If it's really cold, blow warm air over your model just before the final mask rub-down.
As it happens, I have a few models I put masks on recently:
B-25 Mitchell with Eduard canopy masks; MPM Gloster Meteor with 'shapes selected to fit' on the front, strips filled in with liquid mask on the bubble; Academy P-39.
As for your other issue, use a similar technique. I use ordinary painter's masking tape (but prefer a quality brand), place the model and instruction guide in front of me, and cut the shapes with small, sharp scissors. If you want a 'hard edge' look, define the edges with narrow strips that will flex and adhere well, and fill int he centre with cut pieces. If you want a soft edge, either use blu-tack or silly putty for the edges, or allow the masks to stand off the surface by spacing them with small loops of tape, or little stacks of several pieces of tape underneath. If you don't have an airbrush, use spray cans.
I use these tweezers on my semps. It’s [a little too] satisfying.
I bought my files, drill, tweezers and dykes off of Amazon and they all together set me back less then $50
each thing was 10-15
http://amzn.com/B00E8ER10G
http://amzn.com/B000OVHZ3U
http://amzn.com/B00DVIEJ14
http://amzn.com/B001N1AASC
Bent tweezers work really really well. Unless you're trying to take apart already mounted switches, I find tweezers to be the best (something like the top one in the picture on this listing http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1409881252&sr=1-2&keywords=tweezers).
I don't have those specific ones though, so I can't comment on the quality of those. Nice reviews though.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006RBAU74/
This is the same thing I posted in response to a similar question a while back.
I'd suggest the Hakko FX-888D as it is a cheap temperature controlled station and you'll get better results quicker than with a cheap iron. You certainly can go with a cheaper Weller station but you may end up fighting with it a bit if you move beyond very basic work. For solder, stick with leaded 60/40 or 63/37 as it will flow out easier and at a lower temperature. Don't forget useful things like solder wick/desoldering braid, tweezers, and cutters.
To practice, start collecting old electronics and removing parts. Once the parts are out, put them back in. This will get you comfortable with the techniques without risking something valuable. The other option is to go to eBay and buy cheap kits from China for a few dollars and build them.
Pace has some outstanding soldering videos on YouTube. They are a bit old but are quite well done and still relevant. I'd suggest you start with these then look up the NASA soldering specifications to see the extreme end of things. You won't do much of what is in the NASA spec but it will give you some good background info.
iFixIt has a soldering tutorial (though it has a few bad habits in it).
Really thin tweezers probably. Maybe drill a thin hole, and screw in a thin screw to pull it out. If you can't you might have to replace the jack.
Edit: Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPEWI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-k2SCbAXPW0HV
Here are some thin tweezers lol
I use these...way overkill, but I got em free:
Aven 18069USA Pattern 6 Angled Fine Precision Tweezer, Stainless Steel, 4-3/4" Length, 3 Star Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006RB8YZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YJXxDb355WSQH
I've tried the hook things, the pointy "weeding pens", but end up back with the tweezers.
You might already have these things, all basic stuff and it's just gonna be a rehash of what I previously mentioned :
Get an xacto knife, basic and you should be able to get it at the local hobby shop or at amazon, very straight forward.
You might need craft tweezers. I have this kit but haven't started on it, but the tweezers can be really help for in tight spots. I have a needle nose kind (not sure that's what you call them) and the curved kind.
Glue, any one glue (like elmers or scotch) will work. There are craft glues you can buy but it's not really necessary
Painting Kiki, brush pens should achieve what you see in the picture. I haven't gotten a set yet so I can't exactly give recs. I have just been utilizing my fine point sharpies and the Sakura brand micro pens
Compressed air should do the trick and thin tweezers will help if anything gets lodged in there. Just don't scrape anything with the tweezers, only use one pick to dislodge anything that gets stuck.
These are the tweezers I use at work (phone repair) though I doubt compressed air will fail to get lint out of the port. I only need to use tweezers to get crumbs and earwax-y crap out of USB ports.
Right before I graduated from college I was getting into soldering and decided once I got my diplomas I would treat myself to some nice HAKKO equipment using the 30% discount while I was still considered a student. The stuff below is what I purchased. Note that the 30% discount is only applied to the soldering station nothing else. Anyway, if you can splurge, I highly recommend the FX-951-66. It is truly fucking AWESOME. If you are on a tight budget and not sure if soldering as a hobby will stick, get the cheapest HAKKO they sell and it will still be a good unit. I am a huge fan of hakko so clearly I am biased but they are a well-known reputable brand
Hakko Soldering Station, FX-951-66
Hakko T15-JS02 Conical Bent Tip R0.2 / 30deg x 1.6 x 7.9mm for FX-951
Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length
Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity
I got these: tweezer set
I wanted non magnetic as it's a pain to pull any magnetic debris out of a motors magnets otherwise :)
Hello! I'm a tool Nazi to some extent, and I will vouch for a couple brands real quick.
Cheap knock off. Waste of time
Ifixit set: maybe not snap on quality (the newest set is arguably better than the previous gen) but well worth the money.
Moody: the American made brand that is the in-between of ifixit and wiha. They make nice tools that have worked well. I particularly like their ESD handled models(ifixit has them for sale :) guess where we got ours :):) )
Example from Amazon Moody Tools 51-2088 T-1 Fixed ESD-Safe Short Star Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PGO1PK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ShGzybRQN3FCY
(Ifixit it has them cheaper)
If you need it a few times a year the ifix it set is more than adequate. The 64 bit set has lasted me everyday for over a year (or reallllyyyy close) now and has not had a single issue. Get it and be happy.
Edit: you'll need tweezers too. Get the pro tech toolkit from ifixit. It's worth its weight in gold. Or, if you're cheap, I use these tweezers and love them Aven 18072EZ E-Z Pik Style 7 Precision Tweezer, Stainless Steel, 4-1/2" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006RBANAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PjGzybPBWXG9N
Unfortunately your only option is to get a rail from a used Joy-Con. Replacement rails aren't even available in the Chinese market yet as I'm told.
Though that bent pin looks fixable. As long as you can straighten it and then pull it outward to match the other pins, it should make contact at least a little bit. I'd use precision tweezers for that.
Well... the last time that I bought cheap black Chinese ESD-safe tweezers, I received a large smelly white Chinese bathroom rug so YMMV.
This is my obligatory post telling you try out tweezers:
http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/
My producitivity almost trippled on making beadsprites, and my accuracy went way up, once I got precision tweezers. Well worth the $4 price tag.
Your sprites looks great by the way!