Best variable resistors according to redditors

Here's a $4 part (datasheet) that will produce a stable, low noise, 5V reference.

Use your favorite low-noise precision op-amp (The OPA227 might work well datasheet but there are certainly cheaper options) with precision resistors in noninverting configuration to convert the 5 V to +1 V.

Use another in inverting configuration to convert the 5V reference to -1 V.

A summing amplifier can be used to add or subtract a fixed voltage to your signal.

I would use this as an excuse to pick up an assortment of trimmer potentiometers such as this.

​

Edit: recommended a higher voltage opamp

Here’s the link

Electrical Buddy 19.5x11.5mm A01 Silver Tone Top Potentiometer Volume Control Rotary Knobs 6mm Shaft Hole 20PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCQSGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3ConDbR3X5XP5

If it is the B series it should have 2 leads coming off labeled dim. You need a 100k ohm potentiometer. Solder it on once you pin check the pot to verify ohms are accurate. Page 4 for wiring
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-240H/HLG-240H-SPEC.PDF&ved=2ahUKEwigt9WJjPLlAhXjCjQIHcGSBMsQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw05YIyh8avpwxWzMDnvA0HE

I used theses pots

TWTADE / 3pcs Wh138 100k ohm Potentiometer Single Turn Rotary Linear Variable Potentiometer +3pcs Black Aluminum Alloy knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHGR3ST/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_72A0Db4A1VZ4X

You need a potentiometer.

You need 1k ohm resistance and a linear taper (some will be listed as audio taper and won’t work well).

Hook your dimmer leads up to the center and a side pin on the pot and you’re done.

Deadmans switch would be real easy,

just grab something like https://www.amazon.ca/Three-Trigger-Switch-Electric-DZKS-11-4/dp/B007Q9XVUO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506536689&sr=1-2&keywords=electric+trigger

and then one of these https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell®-Wirewound-Potentiometer-Adjustable-Resistance/dp/B01N8TFXVX/ref=sr_1_84?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506536751&sr=1-84&keywords=potentiometer

wouldn't even need fancy wiring, just run the input through the trigger to the potentiometer. have it mounted to be held by the index finger and then the dial for thumb control?

If they're 6mm knurlled shaft I've used these on my DFAM and they're fantastic:


https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Shaft-Ribbed-Potentiometer-Control/dp/B073BCR8T6/ref=sr_1_28?m=ANWATC6W7QA9X&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1574205289&s=merchant-items&sr=1-28

The dimensions of the box are 17in x 7.5in
The switch, potentiometer, and display was all one piece which was sourced from amazon. It’s in a previous post of mine on this page.

I had to use a different potentiometer than the one from the kit. The top plywood for the box was too thick for the knob to reach so swapped it out for these (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15011600ux0213-Linear-Rotary-Potentiometer/dp/B0171M5SRE)

The fans were two of these (https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-Standard-Configuration-possible/dp/B002KTVFTE)

The magnets were bought off eBay. (Rare earth magnets, neodymium)

Washers for spacing the magnet from the fan were already owned.

Used clear epoxy for any gluing that was needed.

12v dc power plug, which was an old cell phone charger. I split the power supply to both PWM speed controllers.

That’s it for parts!

In a pot there's a wiper on a thin disk of material. As the wiper moves along the disk, the value of the pot changes. If you move the pot a lot, eventually you'll start wearing down the disk. When this happens, the pot will make scratching sounds when you move it.

Normally this is not a big deal, you don't frequently play and move a knob at the same time. But, with Wah pedals it is, since the foot pedal is attached to a pot - when ever you move it it will make scratching noises.

edit: and because this is a common problem with Wahs, it is usually pretty easy to buy a replacement for ~$25 link (you may be able to find them for less somewhere)

Wouldn't something like this work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009KAEP7A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_121_img_2/163-7575233-3411138?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5DJJXXPZKDYCS0FNTZR

This is a high quality potentiometer and you get two in the package so you will have an extra.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KF7WZB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you solder the wires to the pins use the left hand and center pin, it doesn't matter which wire goes to what pin but just for shits and giggles solder the blue one to the left pin.

anything anti static should be good

https://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-Tools-Hardware-ADJUST-piece/dp/B00DWI1LUA/

https://www.amazon.com/VISHAY-SPECTROL-008T000-ADJUSTMENT-TRIMMERS/dp/B00HKJ90V4/

https://www.amazon.com/Aven-13016-Piece-Anti-Static-Alignment/dp/B001Q4YGQS/

Yep! Pretty straightforward mod. You desolder the trim pot, then solder three wires to the pads where the trim pot was. After that, solder the other end of the three wires to your potentiometer and you're done as far as the sound's concerned. For usefulness/cosmetcs, I cut a hole in my Walkman case to run the wires out, then poked a hole in the side of an Altoids tin, sanded away the rough edges, and threaded the other end of the wires through. Then I drilled a hole in the top of the Altoids tin big enough to get the potentiometer shaft to fit through and spin freely while still being snug. When I was sure of that, that's when I soldered the wires to the pot. Then I hot-glued the pot into the backside of the tin's top lid (it's too small to glue to the tin bottom), being careful not to cover any wires or pads, closed the lid, put down the numbered dial position circle thing (with some gorilla glue to make sure it'd stay in place), and finally put the potentiometer's knob on. Here's the exact pot I used and the Ouija Altoids tin.

The reason I don't trust my handiwork is I didn't have a Dremel for the Walkman case hole, and had to use wire-cutters to snip off bits instead. I sanded it down a little, but I could've done a better job. I'm worried it'll cut the wires over time. The wires themselves are also pretty long (about 18") and prone to tangling. The length is enough that I can keep the Walkman on a belt-clip while holding the Altoids tin at waist-height, but I mostly use it on my desk, so it's pointless. If I make another, I'll halve the length and add a few bands to keep the wires straight and tangle-free.

Cheap ones from Amazon

Welcome!

Take this with a grain of salt because, I still don't really know what I'm doing (although I'm not sure anyone feels like they ever do); but, here's my experience.

For recommendations - skip to the -------------- Bottom Line ------------------ below

My first project was this little breadboard prototyping pedal box thingy I made out of stuff I bought at RadioShack (before all the stores closed):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ5ws-Y9OPQ

There are much better ways to do this and I regret my potentiometer selections for this box but, I was really green and the Shack didn't have board mounted pots (I don't even think I knew there was such a thing at that point).

But, on that box, I built circuits that I found online and I was instantly hooked.

Fast forward many "wasted" hours and here's where I am:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGNmA1YM3n8

Hah! - still building distortion boxes :P - well - and this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPrLFpkO9no&feature=youtu.be&t=48

----------------------------------------------------- Bottom Line -----------------------------------------------------

After all that here are the things I can suggest you stock up on (and I would bet you can find cheaper versions of any of these - but what's in them is what matters):

For IC's:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/op-amp-ic-kit/

For Potentiometers:

https://www.amazon.com/Logarithmic-Linear-Reverse-Potentiometer-Assortment/dp/B07SVMC3VK

Then you'll want a grab bag of diodes and transistors - look at different schematics of fuzz and distortion pedals and get an idea of what they're using - I just bought a bunch at RadioShack and some I got from Mammoth (also now defunct) and Small Bear (still rolling). I have em in a box and I swap em out on the breadboard to see how it changes the sound. That's the best part to me. When I'm on a breadboard - if I replace this guy with that guy how does the sound change? Definitely not the intelligent way but I enjoy that pseudo-creative process.

Finally - you should get some resistor and capacitor kits. My wife got me kits from amazon that have a label "JoeKnows Electronics" on the boxes. I haven't come across anything I've wanted for that wasn't in those two boxes.

Oh - as an added bonus:

https://www.harborfreight.com/toolbox-organizer-with-4-drawers-68238.html

This is my favorite storage box - find you a super coupon and grab one or two of these.

Anyway -

My sincerest congratulations and my deepest condolences for the path on which you are about to embark.

In the past I've used a large box type thing to control the heat output of my 1500w element. It got VERY VERY hot, and burnt out, because apparently i should have put a giant heatsink on the back (Why would it NOT come with one?)

Anyway....looking up motor controllers again, I see nothing but these guys. Rated at 2kw should be good for a 1500w element, but I'm not sure if PWM is a good thing, compared to plain old analog tuning. I guess it depends on the pulse width, right? 10hz compared to 0.1hz might be fine.


Edit: this is what I had which apparently is a FAN controller, and obviously analog (rheostat)

Sure. Does yours have a 2 pin or a 3 pin plug?

Something like this should work fine.

Photo of the label on the tray would help.

Digikey and Mouser have a huge selection of potentiometers. The set positions you are referring to are call "detents". Unfortunately, combing through the catalogs of electronics distributors can be pretty cumbersome when it comes to potentiometers. Many manufactures make potentiometers with center detents. Multiple detents are a bit harder to find, but this could work:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B889G26/

Yes those will work fine, but you can use a much cheaper tool for the screwdriver, they make little plastic ones called tweakers designed just for rotating small pots.

Something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-Tools-Hardware-ADJUST-piece/dp/B00DWI1LUA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494247175&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=plastic+potentiometer+screwdriver

I'd remove that stupid metal clip on it before use, but anything similar to that will be perfect.

Ok, almost any 80mm computer fan will work (provided that it has a flat face to it):
http://www.amazon.com/KingWin-Long-Bearing-CF-08LB-Black/dp/B002YFSHPY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330687&sr=8-11&keywords=80mm+fan
http://www.amazon.com/Bgears-b-Blaster-80mm-Bearing-Extreme/dp/B0043GQC6S/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330791&sr=8-32&keywords=80mm+fan

Magnet suggestion:
http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Disc-N48/dp/B001KV38ES/ref=pd_sim_k_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=100B2PQECYWG45ZYYRMR

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591ESBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BSRIO/ref=pd_sim_indust_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B7JFAHDACTFVK2AZ15M
(Get the ES model, it's bigger, which means more room for your flask)

Switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPBRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPBRA&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Rheostat:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QFU9H4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009QFU9H4&linkCode=as2&tag=brewprof-20

Stirbar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ACNFDQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001ACNFDQ&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Power Supply: (Most people use an old cell phone charger, I used a usb cable, plugged into a modern phone charger)
http://www.amazon.com/PowerLine-90367-Universal-Power-Adapter/dp/B00CWR39TI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Toss in some super glue to hold it all together, a couple of nuts and bolts to mount everything with, and that should just about get you there.

You have a 12V fan but a 5.5V power supply? This sounds like a problem to me. I'd recommend a 12V, 0.5A adapter - I use this one - with a 500 ohm potentiometer.

I usually have to turn the rheostat up about half way to get past the fan's stall speed, and then it runs very slowly, and ramps up smoothly to top speed as I turn the dial. At top speed the vortex is so strong the stir bar gets caught in it and jumps the field.

It also helps to use very strong magnets, spaced exactly as far apart as the ends of the stir bar. If your drive magnets are half an inch apart, don't bother with a 1 inch stir bar.

If you don't mind modding one you can get good value for money by buying this:

http://www.voxamps.com/us/pedals/wahwah_v845/

replacing the inferior pot with this

http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Dunlop-ECB24B-Potz-Crybaby/dp/B000EEL5W4

Then modifying it for true bypass with these instructions:

http://stinkfoot.se/archives/561

I've done these steps and got a good result.

So a router speed controller would not work?

What about a device like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

Does this one look good in your eyes?

>How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

>Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

I also have a 12" planer. Some of the board are over 18 or 20. I think I'll be ripping most of them down anyways. Thanks for the offer on the motor, I recently picked up 2. I just need to get a belt that fits now.
The slabs I had done by 2griffins. They had an Alaskan chainsaw mill. That was really cool to watch. If you ever want to come see some of it, let me know.

Find yourself an old fan motor or an old plug in drill and hook it up with something like this http://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

I've had good luck with a router speed controller. You can find them at most hardware stores for very little money.

I use these directly on my breadboard: https://www.amazon.com/onboard-Potentiometer-Assortment-vertical-terminal/dp/B01M7SPG8E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539315952&sr=8-4&keywords=potentiometer+assortment

Yea, what do you guys use? I found this and was told it would work.

I am using this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O9Y6Z70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xFcSAbSZCMY49

off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.

Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20

Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00

500 ohm surface mount pots:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-B500-Pot-/280672832335

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Pot-B500-Split-Shaft-Solder-17mm-Potentiometer-EO-/121183474239?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-500-Ohm-Potentiometer/dp/B0002KRE16

add a fancy guitar knob of your liking

https://www.amazon.com/VISHAY-SPECTROL-008T000-ADJUSTMENT-TRIMMERS/dp/B00HKJ90V4/
(not clear if that's the right size for your use, or not.)
You want a 'poteniometer screwdriver' or 'tweaker'

Do you work with small electronic devices, or ones that need adjustment? This looks like a potentiometer adjustment tool.

Box

Fan

Power

Switch

Potentiometer

Stir bar

Small Flask

Bigger Flash

Mason Jars, as if you couldn't go to WallyWorld to get these