Reddit reviews Anker 3.5mm Premium Auxiliary Audio Cable (4ft / 1.2m) AUX Cable for Headphones, iPods, iPhones, iPads, Home / Car Stereos and More (Black)
We found 30 Reddit comments about Anker 3.5mm Premium Auxiliary Audio Cable (4ft / 1.2m) AUX Cable for Headphones, iPods, iPhones, iPads, Home / Car Stereos and More (Black). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Universal Compatibility: 3.5mm AUX cable perfect for headphones, car stereos, phones, MP3 players, home stereos, portable speakers and any other devices with a 3.5mm audio port.Superior Sound: Gold plated connectors offer unbeatable sound quality and durability thanks to improved signal conduction and resistance to corrosion.Improved Durability: Engineered with kevlar insulation to give incredible tensile strength. Lasts 10 times longer than other cables.Sleek Design: A perfect match for the latest headphones, phones, tablets and stereos.What You Get: SoundLine auxiliary audio cable, our worry-free 18-month warranty and friendly customer service.
So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.
I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.
Neither do proper round profile cables.
This one is cheap and I have a few of them. They're great quality.
Amplifier
PA horn
CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)
You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.
To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB
Hope that helps.
What exactly is wrong with the AUX cord? Sometimes the ends of the cable can wear out after prolonged use and whatever signal (music) is being sent through the wire it will cut in and out of the input device it's plugged in to, in this case your car input.
If I were you, I would buy a new cable and see if that helps. They are only $5. Much cheaper than a stereo repair. Try that first. Worst case scenario you'll have a backup cable and still a broken head unit. Best case scenario you save a lot of money.
If the new cable doesn't work, then it could be the actual Aux input on the head unit worn out with a broken resistor. Luckily, Toyota made these specific inputs replaceable. Old one will unplug and pop out, and new one will plug in and fit right in. You can find OEM replacements here.
SOURCE: I don't have a Camry but I do have Google.
Sure, it's possible. Just get a replacement jack or cable form your nearest parts store. I don't know your location,but for example you can get one here or here. Or you can buy a cable similar to this , cut one of connectors and replace your damaged cable.
You will also need a soldering iron, thin solder wire and possibly some thermal shrinking tube. You can buy all that in the nearest hardware store.
I bought This adapter and This cable.
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No issues for me!
Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.
IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.
The amp says it can play from MP3 players using the 3.5mm jack so you'd just need a male-male 3.5mm cable afaik:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478038592&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable
That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.
Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/
I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/
I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/
It's a 3.5mm cable, but they are often advertised as "Aux" or "Auxilliary" cables because many people use them to connect to the AUX port on Car stereos
For the AUX cable? I just used one I had laying around the house, but I would recommend this one.
EDIT: I'm not sure about this because I don't own a capture card, but I think you can just use that and not have to worry about getting an AUX cable. YMMV
The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).
The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).
Things I like about the SA60:
Things I dislike about the SA60:
My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.
I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.
The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.
Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...
Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.
Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.
Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.
If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.
yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/
All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!
Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.
http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Without involving an external DAC: get a 3,5mm cord like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK
Plug one side of the cable into the DS4 controller, the other side into the „line in“ jack of your a5.
I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:
BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables
I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...
Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..
Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...
BT Splitter
Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.
Into the rear of the Zoom. The cable is this one..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R124LAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it does work....with the slight glitches mentioned
If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:
Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.
Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.
3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.
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That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.
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The S/PDIF port on your computer looks something like this:
http://www.electronicshub.org/types-of-computer-ports/#SPDIF_TOSLINK
It may also look like a 3.5 mm headphone jack. Check your computer manual to see which digital audio outputs are available on your computer.
The optical version of S/PDIF connects to the digital in on your xDuoo with a cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T8HWV62/
(The gold does nothing because it's an optical connection.)
The coaxial version of SPDIF connects using a 3.5 mm mono or stereo patch cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R124LAK/
I have these headphones. I lost the original cable and I can't find any 3.5mm cables that are slim enough to fit. This doesn't fit for example.
Which cable can I use?
Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.
You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.
I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.
Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CV0JSKE/
Thanks. I remember the aux and phones output on my amp. So will something like this do ?
Anker 3.5mm Premium Auxiliary Audio Cable (4ft / 1.2m) AUX Cable for Headphones, iPods, iPhones, iPads, Home / Car Stereos and More (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EiKxCb2WQJEG3
I have this cable. I would also recommend buying a couple of cheaper cables.
Ah I see what you're saying. Xbox One HS an option to play to both headphones and TV speakers. If PS4 doesn't have that option (an assumption on my part, I apologize), then a splitter is what you need. This one will do. You'll also need a 3.5mm cable. These are not brand recommendations, but will give you an idea with how the setup would work. Make sure the headphone splitter supports voice.
>If you look at the bottom of the mini mic and see port holes, you have the 2+.
So I need to get a cable like this and just slip into the green speaker input on the back of the motherboard input / output and then the other end into the mini mic?
In terms of sound quality would this be just as good as the phone clip bluetooth?
Also as far as the phone clip and bluetooth, could the phone clip also work with any bluetooth speaker?
[This] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK) Anker cord.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_5y3Jyb89TAE5E
You could use just an audio cable. Won't be wireless technically, but it works by plugging it into your controller.