There's no magic about getting a working headset, you just need to realize that there are two TRRS audio plug pinouts, and Microsoft chose the far less common one.

The controller has the less frequently used OMTP, while the adapter uses CTIA. Presumably to push people to buy an adapter or Microsoft headset.

You can get an CTIA -> OMTP adapter for a few bucks.. If a headset isn't working when directly plugged into the controller you need one of those. If you want to use a 2 x 3-pole headset (e.g. your normal headphone plug/mic plug PC headset) with an xbone you need one of these.

Edit:

The straight converters are harder to find (that one sold out pretty quickly after this was posted, you can find a few others with no reviews or 1 bad one), but the PC headset adapter ones are aplenty. Just look at the questions/answers to be sure. There will always be questions about XB1 if the name isnt clear.

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

Are you talking about headphones? Because it would make no sense to need it only to go to the right speaker in the phone itself. You must mean headphones.

You can simply plug an adapter on the end of the headphone jack and just leave it there. What you need is a 3.5mm stereo male to mono female adapter, like this one of these.

Edit: more info.

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

• Parts Express Overnight Sensations Kit---$138.00
  
• Sonic Barrier Sound Dampening Foam---$13.25
  
• SMSL Q5 Amp---$129.99
  
• C8 Power Inlet---$10.16
  
• C7 Power Cord---$4.61
  
• 3.5 mm Cable---$4.99
  
• USB Cable---$8.99 (for 2)
  
• RCA Cables-need two---$9.18
  
• Digital Audio Cable---$1.69
  
• M3 by 30 mm Bolts---$9.65
  
• #6 Wood Screws---$8.37
  
• High Density Foam Tape---$5.60
  
• 24 AWG Red Wire---$9.55
  
• M6 by 40 mm Hex Bolts---$4.66
  
• Threaded Inserts---$4.55
  
• RiteAV Custom Wallplate---$26.33
  
• 1/4 inch Plywood---$5.77
  
  I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.

This sounds like a stereo/mono conversion issue. The melody for example might play on just the right channel and the drums are in stereo. If your mic input is mono it's probably not getting both channels. You should be connecting your PC via the RCA input jacks on the back of the amp, not the mic input.

You'll need a cable similar to this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966127&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+mm+rca

Actually connect this
StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RtNiybQBKJPYG

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewNiybTP946EB

Neither do proper round profile cables.

This one is cheap and I have a few of them. They're great quality.

You only need a MIDI cable if you want to send MIDI messages to the Volca to automate actions or control parameters.

For audio, just look on amazon for a 1/4" to 1/8" TRS or TS cable. Hosa makes some cheap ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543511670&sr=8-9&keywords=1%2F4+to+3.5mm+trs+cable

I bought 12 of these:

Hosa CMP-110 1/4 inch TS to 3.5mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ldebAbEFP38JY

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

• ORANGE line - RCA to 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
  
• BLUE line - 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
• PINK line - 1/4" mono TS jack to 3.5mm stereo jack

I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are lots of options. I bought this when i bought my X1. It has served me well.

Yes you can

Doubtful, since desktop cases have so much more room compared to laptops or smartphones (where this is used), that it doesn't make economical sense to retool/redesign. Maybe some mITX cases?

You'll have better luck just getting a splitter.

What exactly is wrong with the AUX cord? Sometimes the ends of the cable can wear out after prolonged use and whatever signal (music) is being sent through the wire it will cut in and out of the input device it's plugged in to, in this case your car input.

If I were you, I would buy a new cable and see if that helps. They are only $5. Much cheaper than a stereo repair. Try that first. Worst case scenario you'll have a backup cable and still a broken head unit. Best case scenario you save a lot of money.

If the new cable doesn't work, then it could be the actual Aux input on the head unit worn out with a broken resistor. Luckily, Toyota made these specific inputs replaceable. Old one will unplug and pop out, and new one will plug in and fit right in. You can find OEM replacements here.

SOURCE: I don't have a Camry but I do have Google.

Amplifier

PA horn

CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)

You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.

To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB

Hope that helps.

Useful feedback, I'll mention it to the product people. PS, You can get a 3rd party one, it's just an audio-Y connector like this.

If you want to listen to the radio while watching the game on the TV, all you need is a radio, patch cable, and Radiodelay on a PC. I've found that the radio broadcasts need to be delayed around 16 seconds to match up with FSWI on DirecTV.

Sure, it's possible. Just get a replacement jack or cable form your nearest parts store. I don't know your location,but for example you can get one here or here. Or you can buy a cable similar to this , cut one of connectors and replace your damaged cable.

You will also need a soldering iron, thin solder wire and possibly some thermal shrinking tube. You can buy all that in the nearest hardware store.

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/

Yep, I think the PC37x are a fantastic choice. You'll likely need a Y-connector to plug it into your PS4 though.

a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36 from the scarlett's headphone out to the "front right/left" input on the speaker

or

a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C/ from the scarlett's main outs to the same "front right/left"

I use a GoPro suction cupped to the inside of the cockpit for video. To get the audio I attach a 3.5mm Mic Adapter and then a 1/8 inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TRS Adapter Cable - 10 Foot.


If you get a GoPro you'll want to find some larger batteries, I can never get more than 90-120 minutes out of one.

I'm not proud with how long it took me to come up with this solution. However here is my solution for practicing in my apartment when everyone is asleep.

My CR35 doesnt have a dedicated headphone volume and i found that the preamp volume was too low to work when trying to run it with my AudioTechnica M50 headphones. My solution was simple, in line headphone volume controls; it's just an audio taper potentiometer in a fancy housing but it works really well. The potentiometer is a little aggressive for this application but you can always change it with a lower value one.

I'm not proud with how long it took me to realize I could do this, but let my shame be your boon!

Audio Volume Controller -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KXKVRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics 3.5 mm Male to Male... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Using a free audio program such as Audacity, dub it with this male-to-male cable by going from the device's headphone jack to your computer's line in.

>Is there a better way?

Kinda. There's another way at least. Xbox party chart is available on Windows 10, and you can use a Windows computer as a mixer. Then you can use a headset attached to the computer to both hear Switch audio while running voice chat through the computer.

To do this you'll need an aux cable.

What you would need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. Plug one end of the aux cable into the headphone jack on the Switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer

On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".

In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.

Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device

Then click Additional Device Properties on the right

Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headset.

You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.

Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same headset.

So now you can use Discord\Xbox Party\Steam voice chat on the computer and have the audio mixed with the Switch sound.

PC to Scarlett to JBL's. The Scarlett doesn't seem to take RCA's, you'll need a TRS end for the Scarlett end. JBL will take the same connector and XLR.

You are probably using the wrong (not balanced aka symmetric) cables.

You can recognise them by the stereo plug example link

Just checked out the two, looks like the lite uses 3.5mm TRS on the cable snake bundle and the forge has 1/4" TRS inputs.

Basically all you'd need is [a couple of these](Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.U8BybDJV41T2) cables.

Should do the trick.

Not sure if it would work, but maybe try a 1/8 to 1/4 cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36

OK, I will mention that the volume of standard audio and the calling app is stored separately and you may literally have to turn up the volume on the iPhone during the call even though music is fine.

What I think is happening is you are trying to connect an unbalanced device to a balanced jack.

The only 1/4" stereo jack on your interface or mixer is labeled Phones or Headphones. Other than Insert jacks, which I won't cover, all other 1/4" jacks are mono and able to use balanced or unbalanced connections.

RCA and 1/4" TS cables are mono cables. They are also unbalanced cables.

XLR and 1/4" TRS cables are mono and balanced.

Insert cables are special, as are headphone cables. These are 1/4" TRS connections but they are different. They are unbalanced.

OK, unbalanced cables are what you are used to. Nothing special.

Balanced cables are three wire cables. The connector can be XLR or a TRS plug, usually 1/4" TRS. There isn't actually anything special about the cables or connectors per se. The jacks you plug them into are special.

If you take a piece of professional audio gear (your mixer and interface for example) and connect them with a TRS cable, that cable will carry a mono signal. It will also be somewhat immune to radio interference from lights, refrigerators, and compressors kicking in, most anything that would cause interference in a long audio cable.

What happens is the Tip and Sleeve pair carry a standard mono audio signal, just like on a TS cable. The Ring Sleeve pair also carry the same mono audio signal, but this signal is 180 degrees out of phase with the other copy.

What does that mean? Let's say the voltage in the cable is varying up and down between 1 volt and -1 volt. At a given point, say the five-second mark the TS copy of the audio is at 1V. At that exact time, the RS audio is at -1V. Other times the two signals will be at -.2V and .2V and every other value, but always with a different sign except at zero. If you looked on an oscilloscope, the waves made would be mirror images.

Why would anyone do this? Immagine you have an old refrigerator or big AC unit nearby and it kicks on. This can cause interference in the various lines nearby. Usually, it doesn't matter. With audio, it does. You could hear it kick on, or a rumble in the background on all the cables or lots of weird effects, all bad for the audio.

Let's look at that five-second mark, again. An AC unit kicks in and imparts electrical noise of +0.2V to the signal. That makes the TS signal 1.2V. It gets added to the RS signal as well but makes that signal -0.8 V (-1V + 0.2V = -0.8V). Both signals were affected the same.

Here is the magic. The balanced jack that sends the signal sends the TS signal as normal and inverts that signal (makes it 180 degrees out of phase) for the RS signal. The receiving balanced jack reverses this, adds the signals together and divides them by two. SO the interfered with TS signal of 1.2B is added to the inverted RS signal, now 0.8V to get 2.0V which is divided by 2 to get 1V, the original, un-interfered with value.

Balanced cables aren't affected much by interference. Great, right? What's that to you? The only way the jack knows there is a balanced or unbalanced signal is if the cable is TRS, and assumes it's balanced. The jacks just aren't smart.

Now, consumer equipment rarely understands the idea of a balanced cable so if you plug in a TRS cable into the iPhone, it thinks stereo and outputs a stereo signal. The interface sees a TRS plug and assumes mono balanced signal and does weird stuff to the signal. A call is mono, so both copies of the signal are the same. using the 1V at a five-second example, the interface takes the TS 1 V signal, the RS 1 volt signal. Inverts the RS signal to -1V which gets added to the other and you get 0V. Divide that by two if you want but 0V is silence. This happens for all the audio making the call effectively silent. Anything you do hear is because it's an imperfect system or the two outputs are not quite in phase when generated.

If you place a stereo sound, say music with a big stereo separation, you should get really weird distortions. The signals won't be perfectly canceling each other out like the mono signal.

So, what does this mean? Use TS cables on the interface or mixer side. A Y cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/

or a cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/

or maybe this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/

Any questions? Sound like what you have experienced?

!

I don't have that cable but if you still run into problems maybe try the setup I got.

GoPro adapter

Splitter - Allows to share a jack with a headset.

Cable

This setup works great for me.

You'll probably need something like this: http://www.taiaudio.com/hosa-stereo-3-5mm-male-to-dual-mono-3-5mm-female-y-cable/

Then you can plug your headphones into the left channel, and get another cable to go from the right channel to the PA. I don't know what type of input your PA has, but if it has a 1/4" input, you would need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

Note that with the above setup, you will only get audio out of one side of your headphones. If you want it to come out of both sides, get one of these as well. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/888539-REG/CablesToGo_03174_3_5mm_Stereo_Female_to.html

Sorry for picking cables from 3 different sources. I just used Google and picked random links. But you can probably get everything from Amazon.

Dude....six bucks on Amazon: Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_z-Yevb0AE1WHG

I run my iPad directly into my 2i4 and it is great! However....this is a very sterile, digital approach (fine for quick demos)....now, to warm up the track, I run into a Studio Projects VTB1 - low plate voltage tube preamp: Studio Projects VTB1 Microphone Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E3NQC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rbZevb0WZPQSP

Drop a decent tube in, and all the sudden your guitar leaves the fizzy digital realm...

That Pre isn't bad for mics, either - just remember to run a 1/4" cable, not a mic cable in between.

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

Get this.

C2G/Cables to Go 40634 3.5mm Stereo Male to 3.5mm Mono Female Adapter (Metallic Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O7AW98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lqDxzbNVVMEEZ

I use

• a converter
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
  
  edit:
  Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
  
  
• Mini DVI to HDMI adaptor
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  
  Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
  

I do this to record my voice mails that I don't want to delete.

First, I use a regular auxiliary cord.

Then one end of that cord I plug into my phone, and the other I put THIS ADAPTER on it, and plug it into my Scarlett's microphone jack. Then I arm the track in Ableton and record like normal, as if I was recording anything else via my microphone.

Works like a charm.

I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.

Links:

Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/

AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm

Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y

Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8

gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO

Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html

Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U

Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.

Why not just go >Lightning to 3.5mm
into > 3.5mm splitter into > male to male 3.5mm to your recorder, with the other end of the splitter going to your headphones?

FOR LOCAL GAMES Only - NextRadio app - http://nextradioapp.com/ Tune into local station that is broadcasting game (Ex: 94.1 WIP for the Phillies). Most modern phones have a radio tuner built in. You must use headphones or an audio cable plugged into the headphone jack on the phone/tablet which also acts as the antenna for the radio tuner. I have a 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2 plugged into aux jack on my computer. this is only useful if you have no radio tuner available.

You can use one of these with 2 of these. You can also get one of these for in line volume control.

If you can't solve it with software, do it with hardware:

• 3.5mm Y-Splitter
  
• 3.5mm Male to Male
  
  If you don't need your own microphone, you need 1 Y-Splitter and 1 MtM. Connect the Y-Splitter to your sound output, connect the MtM to one end of it and to your microphone port.
  
  If you want to keep using your own microphone you should be able to do that with 2 Y-Splitters on the Mic & Sound ports, and a MtM cable connecting both.
  
  DISCLAIMER: I did not test this, but that's what I would try. I see no reason that this won't work.

Looks like that takes aux(3.5mm) , SD card and 1/4 inch, so you've got options.

Here's a CD player

Yep! Anything like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ

....and going old school - an aux cable from the headphone jack into the microphone jack on your PC, then use Audacity to save it as a WAV file

https://www.cnet.com/uk/how-to/transfer-memorable-voice-mails-to-your-computer-with-a-simple-audio-trick/

(WAV files are uncompressed with no quality lost)

Like the other posters in this thread have said- the legality of recording this, or if the recording is legally acceptable in a court case is something for the company lawyer to decide on.

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

Yes, so the easiest thing you could do to hear both at the same time is connect the headphone jack on the piano to the audio input on your MacBook (depending on year, this might be a separate plug, or it might be the same as the headphone plug). You'd use something like this: https://amzn.com/B00NO73MUQ

The Mac should automatically send the input from the piano to the speakers on your Mac (if it doesn't you may have the output muted, you can change this in the sound system preference on the "input" tab. Make sure the device isn't set to microphone, but to line in, and the output isn't muted at the bottom.)

Now the cool thing is you can play garage band and you should hear both the piano and garage band coming out of the speakers on your Mac. Since you probably don't want to listen to it all through your tiny Mac speakers, you could then plug some nice amplified external speakers in to the headphone jack of your Mac. This should do what you want!

If you did lose it, or you didnt get one, dont worry, its a regular "headphone" cable with 2 male endings...

just go to any electronic store and get a 3.5mm audio extension cable with 2 male ends. shouldnt be more than $5

This very long and fancy one costs $7 on amazon.

You need one of these...

https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_7

Uhhh... Maybe.

I'd go with something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TDQOybBVYZNSS

Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ryw5CbGQ99V9B

The Kraken Pro has a 3.5mm combojack, usually found in cellphones and laptops. You'll need a splitter for your PC. Something like this.

You can use an audio USB adapter. If the headset cable terminates in one plug, get a Y-splitter or another adapter with a single TRRS jack. If the cable isn't long, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.

HyperX Cloud Stinger

Steel Series Flux

And this cable

I have both and use them pretty interchangeably. Don't let the price $25 fool you on the Flux. It is an excellent headset (https://www.engadget.com/products/steelseries/flux/scores/).

The description is wrong. The PS4 uses a 4pole 3.5mm connector. To use the headset with a PC just get a splitter

Is this what you are looking for?


Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wCl3Db8CKATWZ

Yeah.. there are adapters to turn the single aux on your headphones into 2 separate mic/headphone connectors.

You need something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_vS8Xzb3M6HSCV

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486925540&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Headphone+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

I bought This adapter and This cable.

​

No issues for me!

Looks like you made a mistake when posting that link. Assuming this is the link you wanted to post.

You need one of these.

It looks like that particular model of receiver is audio only. I don't see any optical connections so analog RCA is the only way to go. The Sony TV should have a headphone output along the side. The red and white input on the receiver will need to connect to that headphone connecter on the TV. This will require a cable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KAAzbJCR2FBK

To really take advantage of digital audio, you would need to upgrade the receiver.

Edit: I see that you tried the RCA connection from the TV to the receiver. The composite connections on the TV are going to be audio IN. Not OUT. The headphone port on the TV will be the only way to send audio out to that receiver. Without HDMI or optical capability on the receiver, this tends to get complicated.

You need one of these then https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC

But the better option for you is getting a set of powered speakers.

The front jacks are only output or input, not both at once like phone jacks are. A simple headphone/microphone splitter should work. For example: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S

Is it something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h5L1BbYQ21QSB

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I need to decide on the type of mic I want.

​

I'm assuming I could theoretically purchase an extender if I went with a desktop mic? Would this work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ?ref_=ams_ad_dp_ttl

​

I'm trying to make sure I have everything covered.

Thanks for the help man!

This is exactly what I use:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable - 4 Feet (1.2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gBg7Ab1GYVBTV

Insulation is just slick enough to not snag on everything, it's super-lightweight, and everything actually feels like it was thoughtfully put together. For an alternative, you could go with Anker (whom I use for all my Lightning and USB cables), but that would really be down to available stock and personal preference.

You want a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable, commonly called an Aux cable. Amazon link

You would definitely need speaker wire (and wire stripper tool) to connect the Miccas to the amp, and then either an aux cable or an aux-to-rca Y-cable to connect the amp to your source (laptop, phone, etc.)

• Wire Stripper
  
• Speaker Wire
  
• Aux Cable
  
  Hope this helps
  

They have a green male to 2 green female splitter if that’s what you mean.
They have ones that have red and green female jacks to combine audio and microphone into one black male end.
They have ones that have red and green male ends that split a black female jack.

I have the same Turtle Beach, Justin, so let me see if I can help you out. The 50x contains a 4 channel plug, so that is ground, left, right, and mic. With some laptops, they include a 4 channel port, like the kind found in most phones. If your laptop has one of these you probably just need to change your input settings on your control panel.

If your laptop doesn't have one of these ports, you can tell because the mic/headphone ports will be separated like this. If that is the case, you can get a splitter so the channels can be accessed separately, something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219555&sr=8-3&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter) will work.

Use this to split the boompro's audio and mic connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

and then if it doesn't reach, use any 3.5mm extension to connect the mic to your PC/soundcard/whatever https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-shielded-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7

You will need to buy a 3.5mm splitter to use it on pc. You need a cable for your headset and one for the mic to use it on pc.

Here is one

These headphone / mic combinations use a 4 pole jack as opposed to the classical 3 pole audio jack.
I don't know what kind of input you are using but chances are high it is a 3 pole jack.
You could use sth like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1511010801&sr=1-4&keywords=y+splitter) and plug it in your headphone/mic in jack

Those earbuds would work with an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

is this what you’re looking for?

You need a splitter like this

I assume your headset only has 1 jack rather than 2.

If the headphones come with a single cable (TRRS), you will ned a splitter.

Like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

Also you will need an extension cable, since I dont think the fiio and your motherboard-mic-in are as close together as the splitter cable is short.

Other than that: you are good to go!

If your PC has two separate ports for audio/mic (green=audio / pink=mic) you need to use a TRRS Splitter in order to get the microphone input and the headphone output to work.

Look at the connector on your Headset.
Does it have 4 rings or only 3? Example


If it has 1 connector, with 4 rings, then this is meant for a cell phone type connector. Most PCs still have separate connectors for Headphones and Microphone.

If your laptop only has 1 connector, or simply supports all 4 rings, then thats why it works there.

You would need an adapter like this to make it work on a standard PC with 2 jacks:
https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

3.5mm male to 2 female Y-splitter

Here's one to start off your search.

You will need need a mic/audio slitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

this would do

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882570&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter)
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882834&sr=8-6&keywords=headphone+microphone+adapter) that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

Does it have a separate plug for the mic and headphones? If not, you should be able to get a headset splitter to work with it.

Could also be a drivers issue.

Please check this for me. Does the cable for your headphones terminate in a TRRS (yes, TRRS) connection?

Are you using a splitter like this that is meant to split audio and mic channels or are you just using a generic TRS to two TRS splitter?

If your headset carries both the mic and the headphone signal on the same 3.5 mm connector, then all you need is a cheap adapter like this to split the microphone and headphone signals into two separate 3.5 mm connectors for your PC.

@OP You are looking for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_jEoSyb58CJD90

This will split the mic and speaker signals.

This adapter is the one you need. I use the same one and it works flawlessly.

Are you talking about earphone/microphone setups that only have a single 3.5mm plug? Sounds like you need something like this

Like the others said, a splitter or usb adapter would work. I'd recommend a splitter like this one over a usb adapter, because the sound card on your motherboard is probably better than the one in the usb adapter. Plus it's a bit cheaper. Unless you don't have a mic input on your motherboard, or if it's not convenient or something.

Plugging in the black jack will only work as headphones, not microphone. This is more or less what you're looking for. I would heavily recommend reading reviews, because I've purchased some that weren't very durable. If I can find my spare set from some Audio Technica headphones I bought a while back, I can let you know and send them for free. :)

You need to get the splitter for it, because you got the mobile edition of the headpiece. Your motherboard's audio jacks are not combination mono in/stereo out like you see on cellphones and some laptops, and that is the reason you are getting those symptoms. If you want to test it more, I bet if you plug the headset back into the mic (pink jack) and speak into the earpiece, your pc will pick up some input.


[Here's what you want (or something similar)](https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4
)

Most PCs have dedicated plugs for both audio and microphone, you will most likely need to use a splitter such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522513314&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+microphone+splitter

Since your pc has a separate jack plug for mic and audio and your headset probably only has one for both, you will need a splitter to separate the mic and audio channel from your headset to make both work with your pc. You will need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=wireless

So, lots of information there, you've got some god questions.

In regards to the headset, you're right that a 50Ω set really shouldn't need an amp on its own to power them to a sufficient volume out of a computer. The reason to get a DAC/Amp would be to get cleaner sound from a discrete piece of hardware. If you aren't looking for ultimate sound quality out of your headset, you're probably fine with the outs on your PC (As unpopular as that opinion is around here, it's true). You can always try the headphones out without an amp, then if you're hearing hissing or lack clarity with your PC headphone out, then you can get a separate DAC/Amp and split the mic out using something like this.

In regards to the surround sound, I would probably save some cash and go with two sets of LSR305s rather than a set of those and the Logitech system. This way you can tune the speakers for your room individually, and I'm certain that the 305s are much higher quality than the Z906, even without the sub. The only hitch there is that you won't have a center channel, but many of us here use a phantom center provided by the front mains rather than a dedicated center channel.

You might need some fancy switchgear to have your audio interface connected at the same time as your surround sound, and all of that, but if you can sort that out, I think having quadraphonic 305s will sound better than the Logitech system.

Also, you can probably use your audio interface for whatever second set of headphones you go with, save a bit of money there. If you do go with a separate DAC/Amp for the second set of headphones, I've really come to appreciate the price/performance value of my Modi2u. I've returned higher priced DACs because I just couldn't tell the difference, or thought they sounded worse. It's a matter of preference, though, so demo what you can.

Hope that helps!

All motherboards/front panel audio configurations for desktops I have ever seen don't seem to allow a headphone/mic combo. I believe that you can buy an adapter that allows you to split the one connection into both audio and mic connections for your front audio/rear panel (which ever you prefer). I believe you are looking for something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GQfaBbSRCGHWF

You can use something like this if you have a desktop that uses a separate mic and speaker input. If you have a laptop chances are just plugging it in would be fine.

Are you sure the port is capable of stereo and mic audio transmission simultaneously? If your earbuds only have one trrs plug at the end, you will need a splitter to plug it into the separate stereo and mic ports. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1520468195&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trrs+splitter

I was in the same boat as you until now. My MB also uses Realtek audio (Gigabyte GA-H110M-A) and the only solution I've found for getting my mic to playback at a normal volume is using all of the following:


Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)


Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable


Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbuds Headphones with Mic/Controller RP-TCM125-K (Black)



Total is about $25. Weird thing is if I plug headphones and a mic separately into the USB piece the mic volume then goes back to being low.


This isn't the best solution, but I know there are a lot of folks out there struggling with crappy ass Realtek.

Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.

http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4

yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/

All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!

I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.

The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.

Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...

Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.

Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.

Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.

If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.

The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).

The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).

Things I like about the SA60:

• Bass boost (called "volume compensation" or something, if I remember correctly) can be enabled by pressing in on the volume knob, turning even bass-light music into wubby goodness.
  
• The volume knob is digital, meaning no channel imbalance. It remembers your volume when the unit is powered off as well (by pressing the Input button once).
  
• The banana plugs I have in the back are secured very tightly, as well as the RCA cables I use. One less thing to worry about.
  
  Things I dislike about the SA60:
  
• When plugging it in, it may spark. Just Chinese manufacturing, I suppose. I plugged mine into its power strip first then the unit (sparked at the unit), and has been running fine since.
  
• The front input (switched by holding the Input button to the left of it) hugs cables tightly. You have to hold onto the unit and tug before the cable comes out. To circumvent this, I have that right-angle connector in there instead, which easily rotates in the port and cables can plug in/out of that easily. Adapter found here.
  
  My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.

For the AUX cable? I just used one I had laying around the house, but I would recommend this one.

EDIT: I'm not sure about this because I don't own a capture card, but I think you can just use that and not have to worry about getting an AUX cable. YMMV

It's a 3.5mm cable, but they are often advertised as "Aux" or "Auxilliary" cables because many people use them to connect to the AUX port on Car stereos

That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.

Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/

I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/

I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/

The amp says it can play from MP3 players using the 3.5mm jack so you'd just need a male-male 3.5mm cable afaik:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478038592&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable

I don't know of any good quality mechanical keyboards (in your price range) that come with a volume wheel or dial. Have you considered getting a standalone [Volume Control](http://www.Volbox.com/ Volume Adjuster Stereo Control Knob 3.5mm 1/8" Headp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SsC.ybGQQKYET)?

If you're OK with it, most recommendable mechanical keyboards have volume control on a layer, as in you press Fn + I for example to do Volume Up.

If you're ok with settling for an alternative these are two potentiometers I've been considering. An unbalanced CF is hard to find.

USB - www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l5urzbAKPJNGD

USB #2 - www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cpawdb.bvrzb2PZKAQP

3.5 in/out - www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c8urzbT4JJPR6

you ll need an attenuator then like the Volbox inline audio volume control attenuator 3.5mm 1/8" aux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RwLPDbCVTE2YX basically you put it between your tv and the audio output

You can probably simply find an inline volume control and use any device you want with it

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486085145&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=inline+volume+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41y%2B2R-WN4L&ref=plSrch

You use a 3.5mm stereo to 2 x 6.3mm mono.


Like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S


(or other similar cables)

I wonder if has something to do with mono vs. stereo - maybe you need to use an 1/8” to stereo 1/4” cable? This is how I record mine.

UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord Compatible for iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Cards, CD Players, Multimedia Speakers and Home Stereo Systems 6FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZzMwCbVPC6V9C

Out of curiosity, what happens if you turn up the drum group (hold mixer button at the top and turn green dial)?

Getting a set of T0s my self. :-)
Amazing little speakers and a sub out.

You need one of these and connect to the T0's analog input to the 6i6's line output.

I am happy to help! I am not sure if the Yamaha TG77 has a USB interface like the Digitone does. If it doesn't, and you are interested in using your Yamaha TG77 with an oscilloscope (I highly advise you to) you will need an audio interface in order to get your sound from the device into your computer. Likewise, you can use a stereo to mono cable to hook in through your mic port. This is the cheaper option. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B&psc=1) But be warned, depending on how dirty your mic port is on your computer, the signal will not be a clean one. The best way to do it is through an audio interface, but if that is just not in the budget, you can always connect through your mic port.

I would use a mini to dual RCA cable, plugged into the 2-Track In. You could also use a mini to 1/4" and plug it into an extra channel, but the 2-Track In keeps those free for more mics.

I think you're confusing things slightly. You say you want to run your Echo from your speakers. However, I think what you want is to play your Echo on your new speakers. Yes?

If that's the case, it's not a good idea to merge the two sources (the Echo and the PC) with a splitter. Splitters are designed to split the signal, not merge the signal. You need some resistance to prevent one source from driving and damaging the other source.

What you need instead is an Input Selector. Here's a reasonably well regarded all RCA model for $14 in the US store, from Optimal Shop. You may be able to find a similar with auxiliary (3.5 mm) inputs and outputs. However, it's not necessary, you would just need a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter such as this one to go from your Echo to your Input Selector.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

That has PCIe soundcard that is built into the motherboard. That's what those 6 3.5mm jacks on the rear IO panel go to.

You just need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ plug it into one of the outputs, then plug the RCA jack side into your receiver, and it'll work and be way higher sound quality then bluetooth.

Yes, if you have a two channel RCA to 3.5mm cable, then you can run it out the back of the focusrite and into your headphone jack/line in. Set your logic input and output to the focusrite, and set your discord input to the headphone jack/line in.

hope this shitty paint drawing helps to picture it

Another way is to simply bypass your interface. I have the xenyx 1202 (not fx ) and this is the method I use. You can split the single jack on your computer using this cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=y+splitter+head+mic&qid=1559124001&s=gateway&sr=8-6 )


And then use a RCA cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=rca+cable&qid=1559123966&s=gateway&sr=8-8 ) to connect the RCA out from your mixer to mic in port of the splitter cable into your mac.

On the back of the deck, there should be two RCA connectors labeled Input, and two RCA connectors labeled Output. Or something similar. To record from your phone, you'll need an auxiliary to RCA connector, something like this. Plug the auxiliary into your phone, and plug the RCA connectors into the Input section on the deck. That should do it.

> How is the setup on the surround ones?

For the 6ch (one channel is the subwooker) mode I'm using I just have 3.5mm to rca cables running from my computer to the receiver. For this particular mode it expects all of the set up to be done on the source device. So there's really nothing to do on the receiver except plug everything in to the right places.



IT SOUNDS AMAZING. totally overkill for a desktop set up lol.

You need three 3.5mm to RCA cables, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/vipexcellence8-Audio-Splitter-Stereo-Computer/dp/B01FZ78DZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504968755&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

That's the cheapest one on Amazon, you may want different length or higher quality ones, e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504969472&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&psc=1


PC Speaker out (Green) -> Speaker FL+FR

PC Center/Sub out (Orange) -> Speaker C+SW

PC Rear out (Black) -> Speaker SL+SR

On speaker remote, set input to DVD. On PC, run Realtek control panel app to setup 5.1 sound and test each speaker.

Your Mackies take an RCA Input. SO you need to split that RCA Input into three connections. This will become quite convoluted and require LOTS of adapters, as it just isn't what these speakers were meant for.

You could use one of these and then run your turntable in with RCAs (you might require a pre-amp), you can use your 3.5mm jack output on your pc with a 3.5mm male to rca male adapter like this and a second one of those adapters to go from echo to splitter.

With this setup you could play any of those devices on the Mackies, but only one at a time

If you're connecting your computer to these speakers, you will probably need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC

Connect computer to amplifier. Connect speaker wires from amp to speakers (provided with the speakers) and you're set.

The xDuoo XD-05 is a great portable and desktop amp for the price. It does have a fixed AUX out on the back which is meant for connecting to other amps.

Open this link and scroll to the bottom it will give you a connection diagram.

In order to use the AUX output with an SMSL speaker amp you will need to buy a AUX to RCA cable. Something like This and be using the USB input.

Then all you have to do to run your speakers is turn on and off your Speaker amp. The AUX out on the back is a fixed out so the volume knob on the front doesn't effect the output on the back.

just a small adapter or a RCA <> 1/8" cable. They're very common.

If you're handy with a soldering iron then you can get this

2 Pack CESS 2.5mm Mono TS unbalanced male plug black cable connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPRAID6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u8NkybN6ZCBJV

And any 3.5mm stereo connector to dual RCA, like this

RCA Cable, iXCC 6ft Dual Shielded Gold-Plated 3.5mm Male to 2RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-NkybWXZVSV8

These things are available everywhere in just about any length and style. They used to be included in all sorts of electronics during the transition period between RCA and eighth inch stereo Jack's.

Anyways-

Cut off the RCA connectors and solder the outside wire (the RCA cable should have one inside the other) to the "sleeve" contact of the 2.5mm connector. Solder the inside wire to the "tip" contact. Repeat for the other side. Now you have made your own cord for like ten bucks and you can repair it easily if something goes wrong.

If not, you can use a little converter for RCA to 2.5mm mono jack, like this. The phono jack end has 3 contacts for some reason but it should work just the same. And you don't have to work with molten metal.

Monoprice 107145 2.5mm Stereo Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R6WVDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2cOkyb3DCE6KQ

You need a 3.5 trs to a rca connector. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J1K4C8BRPSRJT05DPSEG

Get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and wire the green audio jack on your mobo (right column, position 2) to the line-in on your amplifier. Make sure to set your soundcard to output stereo. Done.

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC

You are right about speakers. Just need some speaker wire - strip the ends and hook it up. Your Onkyo manual will cover this. Can get banana plugs if wanting to get fancy or need easy way to connect and disconnect.

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

1. I bought this device on Amazon.
   
   
2. I bought this cable on Amazon.
   
   
3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.
   
   
4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.
   
   
5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.
   
   Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.

I'd encourage you to at least consider other options before pulling the trigger on an LP120. At the price point ($365, assuming CAD, for a refurbished unit) is still too high for a used LP120.

If recording to your computer is something you'd like to do, you can always get something like this if your PC has a line-in/mic port (and if not you can pick up a cheap RCA to USB).

You're going to be paying more for that USB feature on a turntable when you could reasonably pull it off yourself with a cheap accessory or two.

USB or 2 jacks would be simpler, but if you end up getting one with audio and mic on one 3.5mm Jack then you will likely need a splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/

Desktop computers separate the mic and headphones ports. Laptops and phones typically combine them into one. you need a splitter to connect to both inputs at once. like this

That is a TRS adapter, it splits one audio source into two. You can tell by the male end because it only has three rings, left, right, and ground.

What you want is a TRRS adapter which is left, right, microphone and ground. They look like the ones I've linked below.


Here


And Here

If it's a combined mic and headphone jack, you'll need a splitter. Something like this will do, and there are dozens on amazon that won't break the bank.

I think it will, I use something similar with my HP: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF

I'll second the 58x. It's what I upgraded to after using the 598's since the XBOne came out.

You'll need a microphone and a splitter, I use a Modmic with a Mic/Phones breakout. I'd buy two of those and keep the spare handy, as mine seems to give up the ghost every 6-12 months. I don't know if other splitters are better, but the one I linked is the 3rd one I've tried and it's the best so far.

EDIT: This probably should've been its own comment but whatevs.

Welcome! And, just in case, one thing you need to consider when shopping for a laptop to be used with skype/discord, or whatever, is what kind of headset or headphone/microphone setup you plan to use.

Quite a few modern laptops have a single combination 3.5mm audio/mic input. If this is the case (like with the higher-end ThinkPads), you may need an adapter/splitter like this to use a standard analog headset that has separate audio/mic cords.

Some laptops still have separate audio/mic jacks. Standard headsets or a headphone/microphone setup with separate audio & mic cords will work fine.

If you use a USB headset you don't have to worry about any of this, as they'll work as long as you have a free USB port.

Personally, I use a pretty cheap (but decent!) headset here that has separate audio/mic cords. My smaller X201 laptop has separate jacks, but when I use the headset with the combo jack on the T430S laptop I just use a splitter.

Just FYI!

You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF

I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.

Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8

Not sure but from my research I have seen the Boya By-M1 and Sony ECM-CS3 in other videos recommendations so either should work.


Then buy an TRRS adapter like this one

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):

Quote:

Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone





Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:



Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD



VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD



VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD




Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD



StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD



Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-Gold-plated-Audio-Stereo-Plug-3-5mm-1-Male-to-2-Female/32339337262.html)

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

You need this and this.

First one to combine headphones and mic to TRRS and then you need an adapter to plug into the DS4. Jack on PS4/Xbone controllers are wired via OMTP. PCs/Cell phones are wired CTIA. Here is the difference between CTIA and OMTP.

If you can, get a pair of headphones and a separate microphone. They will blow any "premium gaming headset" out of the water. Gaming headsets are typically closed-back headsets, which limits your sound stage. You'll want a piar of open-back headphones. They also have to cram a lot more inside the headphones which typically results in something being of lower quality.

It seems you're on Xbox one, so you'll need one of the controllers with a 3.5mm headphone jack.

If you're on PS4, you can use the same items I have listed, and if you're on PC you don't need the splitter.

One of the best pair of headphones you can get is this one. The Audio Technica ATH M50x.

Then get an antilion modmic. It attaches right to your headphones with no hassle.

Then get this thing so you can use the headphones and microphone on your xbox one controller. (Yes, it works on Xbox One.)


All you have to do is plug your headphones and microphone into the splitter, and your splitter into your xbox one controller. Way better than a gaming headset, and way cheaper too.

You can even get better earpads for better comfort, if you want.

I would buy this item, it's super cheap

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vLkx73wrTyHxs

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Don’t spoil your kid this way (I know you’re not breaking the bank, I mean it more like caving in to his every demand.)

First, what does a condenser mic look like?

Exactly. They come in all shapes and sizes.

Don’t buy anything for appearance, prioritize quality.

Secondly, the streamers he wants to emulate are, in a lot of cases, running pretty sophisticated setups with a lot of unseen equipment off camera.

If your kid is going to stream via the built in functionality on an Xbox, then compatibility comes to the fore, since USB mics need a bunch of extra stuff to work.

So where does that leave use...

Assuming they’re streaming via Xbox without a computer/capture card involved, then the first thing you need is a TRRS mic/headphone splitter cable like this.

That plugs right into an Xbox controller, and allows you to connect standard stereo headphones and a standard mic with a ⅛” plug at the same time.

It really opens up compatibility options.

The problem you’ll run into is that quality mics are expensive, and most of them require some sort of power source that complicates things.

A decent lapel mic (which won’t meet his appearance standards) will cost around $20.

A Blue Yeti (one of the most popular and versatile mics for Youtubers/streamers/podcasters) costs $100 by itself.

$300 mics are not uncommon.

So, between your budget and his desires, this may not work.

I can’t tell you enough how much serious research you should do before buying anything though.

That linked post in the edit is incorrect. Apple removed optical audio out, but there is still audio in. What you need is one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1526374927&sr=8-9&keywords=headphone+microphone+splitter

That will give you the microphone-in port that you want (the pink one will be the microphone).

Not sure about the headset. It should work in the 3.5mm jack? Not sure why you would need the adapter. It either works with Xbox One or doesn't.

EDIT: Ooooh wait. That headset has 2 separate wires for headset and mic right? Green and pink? That won't work on Xbox One. You don't need the $25 Microsoft adapter you need a Y adapter that will turn your two wires into one. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487042580&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphone+y+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=4149AcA4MLL&ref=plSrch

As for the extra hard drive you can get just about any USB 3.0 external drive and it will work. You could find a 1tb one for what looks like $50-60 on Amazon right now.

Nah, you're gonna have to purchase them.

These are fairly cheap, and will do the job fine.

You need a pair 1/4" TRS balanced patch cables. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CSS110-Interconnect-Cables/dp/B000068NYH#mobile-twister_size_name_1452610963094

You have two options:

1. TRS to TRS cable
   
2. TRS to XLR
   
   Either one will work. Note that the XLR cable is sold as a single, so you need to put two in your basket. They connect from the two outputs on the rear of your Focusrite.
   
   There's not going to be any difference in sound quality between the two.

I've seen the Lexicon Alpha consistently recommended for the LSR305 since it has balanced outputs + low cost + performance. IIRC it has some kind of problem with macOS, not sure, look into it if you're on a Mac.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVXMNE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AV80KMVI6ZWQL&psc=1

These would be the cables for you I believe (thankx NoAudiophile.com!)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068NYH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Tons of other good DAC/amp combos out there; the Alpha is unique b/c of the balanced outputs which should eliminate hum/interference issues.

Disclaimer - I don't own any of this gear personally.

That's the one sitting next to me right now as I mix. It comes with a power adapter-- no batteries. You'll need a 1/4th-to-3.5mm audio cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396414454&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+1+4

Haven't experienced any signal degradation or noise. The volume gets to bleeding ears levels. The beautiful part is that 4 people can be plugged in and amp'd at the same time with no signal degredation/noise. I tested out my Q-701's and the DT-770's at the same time-- audio dope.

While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.

You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.

Does your Pocket Piano have MIDI I/O? I recommend reading this document, if it does. You can use any sequencer to sequence it, if it has MIDI. DAWs, hardware, whatever!

And you're right about the mixer. It's exactly what you need to aggregate your collection so that it can all come out of the same speakers. For the pocket operators, you can use a 1/8" to 1/4" cable like this to connect them to a mixer.

If the speakers are powered by the wall and connect via a 1/4" plug or 3.5 mm plug, they could connect to the mixing board directly or through a socket adapter or cable of the correct genders and poles.

If your speakers have bare wire connectors, you'll need some kind of amplifier between them and your mixing board, or use powered (amplifying) mixing board which does not need an amplifier. Your mixing board may or may not have USB connectivity. If not, you can probably connect the mixing board's line in and line out to the PC sound card's line out and line in directly or through a socket adapter.

Your PC sound card probably came with basic audio mixer software, which might be good enough for your immediate task.

I have a Sony ICD-AX412 and you're going to need This and this. This will plug to your headset and the aircraft so you can capture high quality audio. It only sucks cuz you have to sync audio and video in editing.

I'm sure you can find other 1/4 to 1/8 cables, unless you really wanted a custom one like you said, sleeved. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 And i'm sure you could pull off the 1/4 thing, might be a tight fix/awkward one.

This, cable with on one side the big plug and on the other the small. The big plug goes into the output of the monologue and the small one into the aux of the monotron. Then it should work, for what you want to achieve it doesn't matter if the cable is stereo or mono.


One other tip, the monotron's headphone output does not like mono cables, so make sure you use a stereo cable/headphones. You can read up on the difference between stereo and mono cables using google.

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.

If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS

If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS

Wait, hold on. Here's a solution. Had to think about it for a second.

1. Run discord on the gaming PC, set the gaming PC's line input (blue I think) as the mic source in discord.
   
2. Run a wye cable from the FX Send of your mixer into the line input (again, the blue one) of the gaming pc.. You'll need a special cable for this - it's 1/4" TS to 1/8" TRS with a bridged tip and ring. If you dont use a cable like this, your discord friends will only hear your mic on the left side.
   
3. Now ALL your audio goes to the streaming PC, and only the mic goes to the gaming PC into Discord. The FX knob on the mic channel on the mixer controls the mic volume into Discord.

Did a little bit more looking into integrating audio for future reference to other redditors if you plan to use your Yi brand camera(s) (or USB Type C connection) inside the cabin (to directly input cables on the camera).

Audio cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458126042&sr=1-2&keywords=1%2F4+inch+to+3.5

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Vention-Retractable-Plated-Type-c-Speaker/dp/B078RGBBBW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1524247294&sr=8-12&keywords=3.5mm+audio+to+usb+type+c


Optional if you plan to use same socket for your mic and for the camera (Splitter): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458126160&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter

Forewarning: This is based on my research, I have not tried this yet. But I plan to and will update this thread.

This is the best cable for your problem. i use it with all my lil korg boxes. 3.5mm Stereo to TS Mono.
http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D

Does your laptop or computer have a 3.55mm speaker or microphone input? If so, you could pick up one of these and connect your bass directly to the computer. Then, you can use a program like Audacity to record your playing and play it back with ease. Your mileage will vary, but for practice it's simple and cost effective solution.

If you only want mono you could go with something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

It's that extra black ring on the 1/4 side of your adapter which is causing your sound quality issues so this one having the plain mono connector on the other side would take care of it.

You are talkin' to Mr. Cheap-o his-self... I don't have any expendable moolah, so I try to keep everything as lo-bux as possible!

What I use is Audacity, a free audio editing program that's fairly easy to figure out. With it you can record as many tracks as you want (one at a time) and clean them up, add effects, pan 'em left-n-right... then with the equally-easy-to-install LAME MP3 Encoder you convert your work to MP3 format.

If you have Movie Maker or something similar on your PC you can align the video with the MP3, save it as a WMV and go from there.

I have a cord that is 1/4" on one end, and the other end fits the "mic" input on the side of my 'puter. I can record directly to Audacity that way, or I can hook up a microphone in front of a cab. I even have an old "Guitar Hero" USB mic that works in certain situations. (Two bucks at GoodWill!)

Hope this helps!

It’s the cable. You need this cable. Also, that interface only has a mono line input (ideally for a guitar) so if any of the sounds on the OP-Z are panned or if you’re using stereo effects like chorus or reverb, it won’t sound exactly like it does in your headphones.

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35

Something like this

I use Volca Keys with Ableton and I use something similar. Works great!

ju-06! a "juno-06" does not exist.

get you one of these cables to go from the ju-06 to a mono guitar pedal input.

Aren't you planning on using them in pairs?
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C with orange and gray going to each speaker.

If you're not using them in pairs, use this: http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D

Do you have any kind of recording interface? (e.g. Sapphire 2i2) there's tons out there. You need an audio input on your computer to take audio from the headphone out on the volca. The audio interface will serve as this input. Plugging a 3.5mm TRS cable directly into your mic input on your computer is probably not advisable since mic inputs are generally mono.

Sound is not transferred through midi. Midi is simply control information.

P.s. The volca headphone out is 3.5mm stereo (but outputs a mono signal) so you need a cable that has 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 inch TS

Like these: http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D?th=0

Alternatively, some people use these:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6

You need one of these cables.

I use these for the mono Volcas. Works perfectly!

Someone else linked me to this solution!

Thoughts?

Well, you should need a male mono 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" jack adapter to plug into the guitar.

Then you need a male to male 1/8" stereo patch cable to go from that to the computer's 'line in' or single audio jack.

OR, just something like this cable here that's the same thing all in one piece.

Then you need to configure your MacBook's audio port to be an input instead of an output as described here.(if you don't have a dedicated 'line in' jack)

After all that, you should be able to select your macbook's input jack in Logic, and pluck away.

This is a direct line in. Your guitar should be powered. Make sure ALL your guitar's/interface's volume/gain knobs/sliders are set to their minimum before jacking in and playing. The best case scenario if you don't is major distortion in your signal. The worst case is that you could blow out your macbook's audio device. I don't know how the macbooks handle overload. It shouldn't be a problem, but just to be safe, always set your guitar's levels to min first then bring them up during your first tests; play normally.

You may not have to manually change your macbook's audio jack. It is auto-sensing. I included the step just in case. If your macbook only has one audio jack, obviously, you won't be able to listen through external speakers or headphones while your guitar's lined in. It'll have to be through the internal speakers. This iMic is a cheap workaround for only having one audio jack. Google for more 'audio interface' devices.

In a nutshell: plug your guitar into the computer directly, set the software to use that jack, and go!

This one, from Amazon.
Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F

A trim pot is a passive (it uses no power) module, like the "trim" module from the 2 Hp company, that just turns down the volume on a signal. If you chose to go that route, you should probably buy a cord with a 3.5mm head on one end and a 1/4" head on the other. Hosa makes several cords like this.

I believe the mention of TRRS is wrong here. TRRS are used with a jack that can be a speaker or a microphone...like on a cell phone. But on a computer, the headphone jack is usually only a stereo output (not an input too). So the 1/8-inch end of the cable needs to be TRS and the 1/4-inch end needs to be TS, like Bangs said.

Basically you need a 1/8 stereo (sometimes called 3.5 mm) to 1/4 mono cable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The other guy is wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3F/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486418856&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hosa+cmp&dpPl=1&dpID=31YuIHAlO0L&ref=plSrch

You need this.

If you only hook up right or left you are missing 50% of the musical information. You need to sum them to mono.

This cable does the trick.

herp

Just be sure it says "shielded" in the description. Like this one.

A shielded cable has a foil or copper braid surrounding the two inner conductors, usually red and black. A non-shielded cable (ok to use for headphones) just has three wires, often red, green, black.

Here's what I do so I can even have music while gaming with a headset on http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394631161&sr=1-1&keywords=reverse+headphone+splitter

Plug headphones into controller and music source. Now in terms of online I'd say pandora spotify grooveshark or an old MySpace page =p

You could try one of these things. Im not sure how well it works though [Y adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I98ZYG&pd_rd_r=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS&pd_rd_w=zwDwU&pd_rd_wg=6s6Jf&psc=1&refRID=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS)

Hot diggity dog! I was going to write a post about this, but decided to bite the bullet and write a post confirming that they worked instead... unfortunately, I screwed up and ordered the thing to the wrong place, so I might not get the post out before Spla2n comes out.

From my research (keep in mind I'm not an audio engineer or electronic magician), using a Y-splitter is a horrible idea. From a Tom's Hardware post:

> The problem with connecting 2 outputs together is they can try to drive one another.

>So it MAY work, but it may sound like hell and be bad for the computers. Adding some resistance can prevent then from driving one another, but will cut the output volume.

Using a Y splitter could also cause the devices to short each other out.

I was able to find a few devices that seem to work, that I didn't know existed beforehand, both from reviews and other forum discussions. These devices [1], [2], [3], allow you to connect any number of input and output devices together. However, they are only 3 pole, not 4 pole (probably, like I said, I don't have one yet), which means you'll have to have a separate connectors for each instance of audio you wish to hear, and audio you want to record, separately. Fortunately for us, Y-splitters do have a use, combining a headphone and mic into one plug, but you have to make sure the y-splitter has 2 female and 1 male (4 pole) connections, like this [4].

I made some drawings of how this would work. Each line is an aux or audio cable, I'm sure everyone here is smart enough to figure which is which for themselves:

• Computer, Headset and Mic separate connections, uses 2 jacks (1 headphone, 1 microphone)
  
  
  
• Computer, plugging Switch into line in, requires 3 jacks (1 headphone, 1 microphone, 1 line-in), or 1 jack (1 line-in) if using a USB headset. Must enable "listen to this device". Probably the best solution for playing with PC chat, does not require the "many device" splitter.
  
  
• Phone, requires 2female/1male y-splitter
  
  This is all theoretical, of course. Safest route is probably using line-in if you're ok with sitting at your computer (uses a lot less cables, too), but this is in most cases a cheaper solution than buying a "real" mixer (even a cheap one, and this doesn't solve our voice chat problem in most cases, just our "all audio one one device" problem), cheaper than the Splatoon headset, and probably cheaper than just the Splatoon mixer itself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hb2lub05K94J0

OP you could use this. I used it for my reason stated below in response to someone else. It's two standard 3.5mm male to a single 3.5mm input jack for speakers or headphones. Worked great.

>Couldn't he use this...? I used to do this to hook up my Xbox and my PC to one set of Logitech computer speakers. Worked fine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I98ZYG?pc_redir=1412264162&robot_redir=1

Nope that reduces the audio quality massively and the audio is delayed which is a no go for gaming. The reason is that my soundcard has to convert the analog audio to digital which reduces the quality and therefore the delay happens.

I wanted to just use an audio splitter cable like this one (so it would keep being analog and the only loss in quality would come from the cable itself, there would also be no need to keep my pc turned on), but I'm from germany and I can't find a single retailer that would ship this to germany or ships from germany...
On the german Amazon store I only find headset splitters which can't mix the two outputs into one. The cable I linked is the one and only I could find.

My guess. Mic plug is mono and input in a stereo plug.

You can try getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-40634-Stereo-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

My guess with the other people being able to hear you in both sides is that most voice chat is mono.

Good luck!

You might need one of these adapters for your microphone to fix your sound issue. Best interview yet btw.

>Just to clarify, I am looking for DAC/amp that has the option of changing a single stereo input into a single mono output.

You are making it WAY WAY WAY to complicated.

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98/

6 bucks

Hi u/InfamousSea - I dug my old Audio Technica Pro 88 receiver (pictured here) out of the closet and saw that it has a mono output, not a TRS stereo. Your problem might be that your Rode SC4 TRS to TRRS adapter is only sending a single channel to the phone.

I used this Cables2Go mono to stereo adapter when I needed to plug the Pro 88 into a TRS stereo input and it worked fine.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you probably need a preamp. I recommend a Saramonic SmartRig II preamp for iPhones plus a 3.5mm mono to 1/4" mono adapter so you can plug your wireless receiver into it.

Hope this helpful and good luck!

This should do it:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

Hi bunting - I plug simple lavs with 3.5mm plugs into cameras all the time. Works fine. Here I am with a lav mic (pulled off one of my wireless transmitters) and plugged directly into my Panasonic GH2 (please forgive my head cold):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slRrwUiMGIw

consumer lavs with 3.5mm jacks cost from [$5 for 2 throwaway Neewer lavs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIPQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005DJOIPQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] up to [$18 for an Audio Technica ATR-3550] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002HJ9PTO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link].

You should also get a [$5.30 Stereo male to mono female adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000O7AW98&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link]in case you run into a mono lav.

No need to rent an expensive mic and recorder.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

An inexpensive way to do this is with a [$58 AZDEN CAM-3 On-Camcorder Mini Audio Mixer] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JPD1/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00006JPD1&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

The better way to do this is with three [$20 Bronstein low noise lavs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZB9XY4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EZB9XY4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), three [$4 mono to stereo adapters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000O7AW98&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-2), three [$10 Rode 3.5mm to XLR adapters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y021NA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000Y021NA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a low noise premplifier/mixer that will get rid of the noise in your T3's preamps - such as the [$429 JuicedLink Riggy Assist RA333] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DXCKLI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008DXCKLI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

Without a separate preamp that disables your T3i's automatic gain control, your soundtrack is likely to have audible noise - especially when your interviewees are not speaking.

Good luck!

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

Solution 1: Keep 3DS volume low-ish. Discord's input sensitivity option helps with this.

Solution 2: Two pairs of headphones. I usually do this with earbuds plugged into whatever is running the voice chat, and then headphones over that plugged into the game.

Solution 3: An audio splitter, something like this. One plug goes in 3DS, one plug goes in PC/phone/whatever, both sources come through one set of headphones.

This?

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36

It depends on your setup. Do you have inputs for a microphone separate from a headphone port? A microphone port is simply an input port, so you could set it to relay "whats being said (the music)" to your headphones. However, on my macbook, for example, I only have one combined port.

Forget the squeezebox and try this:
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421165632&sr=1-2&keywords=audio+source+combine

pair that with two of those patch cables i provided you with and you'll have room to move the computer around.

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36

Something like this?

Do your headphones have two plugs at the end or just one?

The single plug configuration has audio in and out on the same plug, see here. You can buy adapters that will split this up into separate audio in/out plugs like this, then plug one into each appropriate socket.

You need a 3.5mm splitter. Like this

I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.

I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux

and it's still running strong for over a year.

Good luck!

I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.

For a source with the red & white outputs, but only a mic jack on the tape recorder, a Y-cable like one of these can probably patch them together.

Using a laptop as the source, the headphone jack along with a 3.5mm male-to-male cord to the tape recorder's mic input should work. If that renders it inaudible (you can't hear what's playing to monitor it as you record) a quickie solution would be to plug in a headphone splitter w/ headphones into the source device along with your patch cord.

Give the end recording a test listen to make sure the source volume is loud enough, but not so loud that the end result is overmodulated (staticky and crappy sounding).

If you are talking music and stuff, the easiest way is to connect the output connector of your player to the input jack of your computer and start a simply program that can record audio to wav or mp3.

A program likely will come with your OS and the only thing you need is a proper cable (depending on what the out-port of your tape recorder looks like) like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO

If your playback device doesn't have a jack to plug external speaker in and only has internal speakers you could try putting it next to a microphone and record it that way.

If you have a tape with data on it instead of music things may be a bit more complicated.

If your headphones don't have a female connector at the cups, you'd have to mod it yourself.. using one of these
option 0
option 1

Then you'd just get one of these

cable

GUIDE
There are even more options for the female plug in the guide.

you dont need a dac unless you want an upgrade from the one already built into the imac.

just run an aux cable from the speaker output from the imac.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/

you want to strip the wires for the speakers. on the back of the amp there are posts for positive and negative, when you unscrew them they will reveal a hole, pass the bare wire through the hole and screw it down again.

http://imgur.com/n3YRN0g

if you cant figure out which is positive and negative touch the wires to a battery, if the speaker cone moves out, you have it correct, if it moves in, you have them backwards.

although, as long as you get them the same between the left and right speaker, it doesnt matter if you have them reversed.

Something like this is what I'm talking about. I'm just trying to run a Korg Monotron into my Scarlett 2i2. And considering there are very few cables in my small setup, one shitty one that adds noise to my recording is going to ruin it quite a bit, so I'm going to worry about it.

I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.

DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.

This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):

Things you'll need:

1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)

STEPS:

1. Plug the 3.5mm splitter into your controller.
   
   
2. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the speaker that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into your microphone input on your PC.
   The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
   
   
3. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the mic that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into the speaker output on your PC.
   The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
   
   
4. Plug your PC-compatible headset/mic into your PC.
   
   
5. Right-click the volume icon on your PC and click on Recording Devices.
   
   
6. Right-click the headset mic you plugged in during Step 4 and set it as Default Device and Default Communications Device, then Right-Click it again and click on Properties. Now click the Listen tab. Click the dropdown menu that says "Playback through this device:" and choose the speaker output that goes to your controller (see Step 2). Check the box that says "Listen to this device" and hit OK. Now any audio that is picked up from the mic on your PC headset will get forwarded to your controller.
   
   
7. While still in the Recording tab of your Sound window, right-click the microphone input that came from your controller (see Step 3). Click the Listen tab and under the dropdown menu chose your PC headset as the "Playback through this device:". Check the "Listen to this device" box and hit OK. Now all the sound coming out of your controller (ie party chat) will get forwarded through your PC's mic input and to your headset's speaker. NOTE: You may also have to change the volume of this under the Levels tab.
   
   And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
   
   Things I recommend using with this setup:
   
   Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).

Starting from Microphone to GoPro HD Hero2:

AKG-D112 -> Shielded XLR-to-3.5mm stereo cable -> 3.5mm-to-6.3mm stereo adapter -> Microphone Preamp -> Shielded 3.5mm stereo cable -> GoPro Mic Input.

Mic is usually placed in a backpack in a side pocket or outer-most pocket with the microphone itself facing the source of the noise intended to capture (exhaust pipes). With the backpack being right behind me, there is usually a calm pocket of air there and wind noise is almost completely absent.

Amplifier is set to 35-40% volume.

Mixer "timer" & mixer "depth" turned all the way down/off.

Mixer DEFEAT is on. (Mixer is turned off)

*Yes, the total cost of this microphone setup is at or near what the GoPro itself costs. Wannafightaboutit? lol :) What good is a dope onboard video with garbage sound? Especially on a Ducati! My microphone solution is expensive because I needed to find a microphone that can pickup low frequencies at very high sound pressure levels (SPL). This microphone captures a claimed 20hz-17khz @ up to 160db. That is pretty ridiculous. Unfortunately this microphone also requires pre-amplification or I only get very low volume.

I'll explain what I have today, but i'm hoping to swap it out for a full sonos connect:amp setup. Also i'm not sure how much detail you want, so i'll describe all of it.
 
I have in ceiling speakers in every room except:

1. the bathroom where I have a Sonos Play1.
   
2. the living room where I have a Marantz SR5008.
    
   The in-ceilings are hooked into a NuVo Concerto 8 zone audio amp. That provides both power and signal distribution.
    
   I have a different version of these baluns which allows for 2 different audio signals over a single cat5. I have one in the living room, the other in the central wiring closet (where the NuVo is).
   On the Living Room side, one red&white L/R pair is plugged into a Marantz source, the other red&white L/R pair is connected to a 3.5mm->analog adapter cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473619743&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca .
    
   On the NuVo side, I have a Sonos Connect as one source, and the second pair from above (3.5mm cable) as a second source. The first pair is connected to an unpowered zone output.
    
   This allows me to plug a phone/laptop into the living room 3.5mm, send the signal back to the NuVo, and play wherever I want. If I want to also play in the living room (which i almost always do), I turn on the NuVo unpowered zone, turn on the Marantz, set to the "NuVo source" setting on the Marantz. The signal travels from the laptop to the NuVo then back to the Marantz. Yes thats taking the long way, but that way I can play the same song in every room of the house synchronized.
    
   re:Do these work over a switch: These particular ones do NOT, they require an end-to-end connection. If wiring is an issue, you could get a bluetooth receiver/transmitter. I've also got that but for a totally different purpose & location. I got a cheap one and regret it, as it often loses connection with the central wiring closet so I need to repair it.
    
   Hopefully that wasn't way more detail than you wanted.

Controller HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC7BMHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

EG STARTS 2x Arcade DIY Kit Parts... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7R7YW3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Easyget 4 Pcs/Lot 5V LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5Y8E2Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TecUnite LED Maple Garland LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7J1ANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pyle Marine Speakers - 4 Inch 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JF26LF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Car Interior Lights, CJRSLRB APP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DZQRZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LDKCOK USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DPQFZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have somebody QC this (perhaps from /r/audio):

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUSXEY/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Fmq_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=RC1EHSN9BNGPF7QBEQWT&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e26ee127-5127-5fc0-a063-c5df25bf1331&pf_rd_i=537344

3.5mm to RCA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A7J1ANA&pd_rd_r=XAFTKMHGNWE0HHB4R052&pd_rd_w=BGEgf&pd_rd_wg=5XYHG&psc=1&refRID=XAFTKMHGNWE0HHB4R052

Speaker wire: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519759916&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker+wire

Just because something doesn't work with your particular system doesn't mean it's fair to say 'you'd need an adapter to get sound out of it'. I understand you use a Framemeister and it works for you. That's awesome, but it seems that you have a certain bias as a result.

Are you using wireless speakers? If the answer is no, then what kind of inputs does your receiver/speaker(s) have? If they're RCA inputs, then a simple cable is your solution Again, no adapter required.

Just in case it doesn't exist, you could hack together an equivalent setup with the following:

Connect the outputs on this switch to your amplifier with one of these cables.

Connect this Bluetooth receiver to one input on the switch with another of these cables.

Finally, connect a cable like this to the other input on the audio switch for the 3.5mm/non-Bluetooth devices. It's not as elegant as what you're looking for, but it should work.

Apologies if you've already thought of something like this and were just trying to avoid it!

The easiest way I can think of is a toslink to RCA converter and the a RCA to 3.5mm cable.

there's no need to use your phone as mic input to record messages. You can use your phone as output and record an input into audacity. all need is a simple 3.5mm male to male cable. Audacity can record the sound for you. What your trying to do now rerecord the audio, which will degrade the audio quality.

https://www.techhive.com/article/204664/how_to_record_streaming_audio.html

You can connect anything to that projector using a 3.5mm cable like this. Or 3.5mm to RCA like this using the '3.5mm Audio Out' port noted on the images.

Pretty much any projectors I've worked with have had that same output, so that's fairly easy to deal with. As far as which bluetooth speakers have an input that you could use, I'm not 100% sure, but you just need to find one with a 3.5mm or RCA input.

On the projector, you say you're university kids, check out your school's surplus store if they have one, older projectors are usually really easy to find there for decent deals as the school upgrades equipment.

Do the panels on your headphone cups click a lot? I also have the Plantronics BackBeat Pro 2's and they click so much when I move my head the slightest of degrees.

To answer your question, I would just use an amazon basic cable. Cable's will not affect the sound quality at all, maybe by like >.0001%.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73IN2?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=4WR04EXGWK435QEVWA3R

I know why this happens, but it's a bit boring. (I can explain it if you want).

​

The work around is to take the Left/Right signal your are currently running into the the 2-channel input on your speakers, and split it, and feed it into the green and black inputs on the 6-channel input on your speakers.

​

You'll need the following adapters to make that work:

• 1x 3.5mm TRS Female to dual RCA Female
  
• 1x 3.5mm TRS Male to dual 3.5mm TRS Female
  
• 2x 3.5mm stereo cable (what the kids call Aux cable)
  
  -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
  
  
• Take the RCA connectors that your are currently plugged into your speakers, plug them into the RCA adapter.
  
• Plug the male side of the 3.5mm splitter into the female connector on the other end of the RCA adapter.
  
• Plug in an aux cord from each of the female connectors and plug one into the Green port and one into the black port on your speakers.
  
• What this does is directly sends the Left/Right audio to both the front and back speakers.

I have had the same problem as you, though I don't think we have the same setup. I connect via HDMI to my monitor, then by AUX cable to my computer's Line-in and then to my speakers/headphones via computer.

I tried a ground loop isolator, which mitigated the problem. It's not that expensive so you can try it for cheap. Here's the one I got.

What solved the issue was just a better aux cable. I bought an Amazon Basics cable and the static noise was gone. Here's the one I got.

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

amp

cable

speaker wire

you can find the cable and speaker wire cheaper... your local dollar store probably sells both. you do not need banana plugs, they just make speakers easier to connect and disconnect.

$40: Howard Leights

$12: Retevis PTT Mic

$5: Amazon 3.5mm Aux

$57 total to flesh out your radio setup.

At the time that wasn't the intention. You could probably just get any cassette player and a headphone jack extension to do that for you.

Seriously, avoid any and all analog equipment that is marketed towards "ripping" or "converting" analog audio to digital. That stuff is marketed to aging Baby Boomers who don't know any better and intend to have their analog music played "one last time" before it's digital forever. It's a scam, and those things never work.

You'll need 2 female to 2x female 3,5mm y-splitter cables, like these.
Also you'll need 4 male to male 3,5mm cables, like these.

My tips:

Things to bring

• Bring a USB Cigarette car charger - Link
  
• Cell phone dash holder - Link
  
• Headphone cable - Link
  (Listen to your jams while driving)
  
• Some snacks (stop at Trader Joe's or similar store)
  
• Bottle water
  
• Map of the region (Yes we have internet.. but not everywhere)
  
• Plastic bags as you acquire them (at the grocery store, gas station, etc.. work great for garbage)
  
  
  Tips for Rental Cars
  
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Get there 20-30 minutes early and be nice to the guy/gal. It's going to be a busy time for them and they will have a lot of angry people. Usually if you're nice they will upgrade you to a large vehicle because they have too many reservations and not enough stock on lot.
  
• Don't rent from the airport, always go to a lot off site.
  
• Be sure to do the walk around, it's as much for you as them.
  
• Do not pre-pay gas. Just fill it up to where it was before dropping it off. I always keep an eye out for the closest gas station before I leave.
  
• Double check you got all your stuff. Even if you have to make a list. I've found all sorts of stuff in cars that even the detailers missed.
  
  
  I travel/road trip quite a bit; If you've got any other questions, please let me know.
  

You can buy an adaptor that will combine both the two jacks so that it will work in a combo jack. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520863090&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=combo+jack+adapter

Merger Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0T6PSF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A273B110XRJXXC

Splitter Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGBV4NU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NV6XAKT0NANY

My headset arrived Wednesday(a day early), so I was happy about that. I also have this arriving later today since my laptop doesn't have a microphone port.

The Same happened to me 2 or 3 weeks ago.
During Partychat, it stopped working and i wasn't able to Talk/listen.

I replaced the Splitter-cable which solved the problem for me.
If go for a new one, make sure It has 3 rings on the plug which connects to the Controller.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502994136&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5+headset+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51KwsDez5HL&ref=plSrch

This one

Sure thing! Here's a pic for reference - you'll want a balanced TRS cable like the one on the left in the image. If you don't have any on hand, here's a link; get two.

Like two of this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH

A balanced cable similar in function to XLR. Usually used in professional settings for longer cable runs, hotter signals, and greater noise suppression.

I already have 2 of these ( http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS110-TRS-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319524911&sr=8-2 ), would they work from the mixer to the monitors? I really dont know the difference between TS and TRS (isnt it more than just stereo capability)?

I recommend these Hosa TRS cables: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CSS110-Interconnect-Cables/dp/B000068NYH

Hey, I am also using a set of the MK1 version of the LSR305 with a PC. I think everyone is spot-on about the ground loop isolator. If you are looking for a cheap fix, try that first.


Beyond that, like many have suggested - the on-board audio from a PC can be noisy. An external DAC is also a good suggestion, but also a more complicated one, in terms of what all you will need to buy. If you wish to go this route, I will make a recommendation that I can confirm works very well (noise-free, even at high volume) with the LSR305's:

1. Lexicon Alpha - Currently $59 (regularly $49, track price on camelcamelcamel.com if you want to wait.) Yes, technically is a DAC, but is considered a USB recording interface. Think of it as a USB sound card. It is designed to be used with powered studio monitors like the LSR305's - and will take advantage of their balanced audio input capability to cancel out noise. Bonus capability - a physical volume knob (no reaching behind the JBL's, or trying to get to PC soft mixer while in a game, etc), and adds an aux input - you could connect your phone and mix phone+PC audio at the same time.
   
   
   
2. 1/4" TRS balance audio cable - get 2, one for each speaker, in the length you prefer. See the 3 contacts (between the 2 black rings)? Each speaker will get a balanced signal from the Lexicon Alpha - a positive audio signal, negative audio signal, and ground. The negative+positive balanced signal cancels out noise.
   
   
   Either way don't stress over it - the LSR305's are a great choice.

I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.

In the case of the 2i2, you would need:

• 1x USB Cable A-Male to B-Male (like this one)
  
  and
  
  
• 2x 1/4'' TRS cables (like this one
  
  or
  
  
• 2x XLR to TRS cable (like this one)
  
  
  Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.
  
  So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.
  
  I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).

Yes it will and you need two 1/4" TRS cables like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH

My Presonus Audiobox USB only had one headphone out, so I got one of these for your exact purpose: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=headphone+mixer&qid=1557174542&s=gateway&sr=8-9


just get a male-to-male TRS cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QR9Z2RFJ35EW&keywords=trs+cable&qid=1557174680&s=gateway&sprefix=trs%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3 ) to output from your audio interface into this mixer and then plug both headphones into the mixer and adjust the levels accordingly. Works great!

Here is a set of TRS adapters, comes with 2 pieces of both 1/4 to 3.5mm and 3.5mm to 1/4, so one of those, and then you can grab 2 of these male to male 1/4 TRS cables. I don't know about the quality of these - monoprice ones I linked are quality - 16AWG.

Another thing I failed to mention is that most equipment runs 1/4, yet another reason to choose the run as 1/4 - most external audio interfaces have 1/4 TRS outs (hell, you could use these cables for an electric guitar if you wanted).

Tldr at the end

I can't find any schematics for the cable so I'm not 100% sure it would work, but judging by some size comparisons, I think you could use some jumper cables meant for breadboards. If you could give me the size of the port of an individual pin of the 8 pin connector I can verify.

If the size is 2.54mm then for around $6 you can get: Multicolored Breadboard Dupont Jumper Wires - ALLUS J7011 120Pcs 3in1 Ribbon Cables Kit, Male to Male (M/M), Female to Female (F/F), Male to Female (M/F) for Arduino and Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X7P6N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oseBDb0RSX6HQ.

You can get a 10 foot 1/4 TRS for ~$6 on Amazon: Hosa CSS-110 1/4" TRS to 1/4" TRS Balanced Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068NYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ueBDb0M84YBM.

You're looking at about $7 for the xlr: AmazonBasics XLR Male to Female Microphone Cable - 6 Feet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNLTTKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0weBDbQNK67CW

If you have a trs cable, jumper cables, or an xlr cable at your house it will be cheaper. You would also need a soldering iron and some solder ~$10-$15.

It depends on the supplies you need. Assuming you don't have the cables but you have the soldering iron you're looking at about $20. Otherwise it is the same price.

Tldr; it's only $10 cheaper if you don't have a spare xlr, 1/4 TRS, or jumper cables. If you don't have any of the cables as well as the soldering iron, it's the same price.

And what happens when you try it without the subwoofer in your chain? I'd guess that is the source of your interference.

Have you tried balanced audio TRS cables from your audio interface to your monitors? If not you definitely need to do that too. The cable you linked is an unbalanced - all RCA connectors are going to be unbalanced.

Balanced audio cables are designed to eliminate interference, static, and background noise. It sounds like you are having all those symptoms but are using consumer, unbalanced cables rather than professional balanced cables.

http://www.aviom.com/blog/balanced-vs-unbalanced/

Yeah thats definitely a form of ground loop interference. Most likely coming from your GPU leaking voltage to the common ground.

Yes that is the mixer i was talking about. The only change i would make is to run the phono pre-amp into the "Line in 2/3". You'll need some RCA to 1/4' TS adapters. That way you have level control over it.

Also, you will need some balanced 1/4" TRS cables to go from the mixer to the speakers.

I also bought the LSR305s and was getting a lot of background noise from my motherboard. I picked up a Behringer U-PHORIA UMC202HD for $50 on sale. Looks like you can pick it up for ~$100 on amazon or eBay right now. It has balanced TRS outputs and you can independently control the speaker and headphone volumes with the knobs on the right side.

Make sure you also have a pair of TRS to TRS cables. I use these.

Edit: I forgot you'd also need a 1/4" adapter for your headphones as they come with a 3.5mm one.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

For an inexpensive solution:
3.5mm to 1/4" cable
Headphone/Line output on the amp -> Mic input on the computer
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4%22&qid=1566307817&s=gateway&sr=8-15

but with the 2i2, i can still use both of my speakers? and i also need something like this?

And i didn't quite get it. I should get a DAC aswell? which one?

> 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS

It will make sense when you see it. It goes in the MON Send port above Line 3/4, and runs to your Mic In.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1543366151&sr=8-8&keywords=3.5+mm+TRS+to+1%2F4%22+TRS+Stereo+Interconnect+Cable

You then use the AUX Mon knob on the Mic channel to send your microphone signal to the PC, make sure AUX Mon is turned down for all other channels

What size is the audio-in port on your sound card? Is it 3.5mm or 1/4 inch? If it is 3.5mm I recommend this Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ruMbzbQFG7TV5

Quick question for people who know! I can get a USB sound card that has a Headphone and MIC plugin... Is it possible to just get one of these and connect it to the guitar and then into the MIC input on the sound card?

Thanks!
-aledclar

The B112D's take 1/4" TRS inputs or XLR. The XLR connector on the speaker end is female, hence why you need a male cable (can't connect two female connectors!). I'm pretty certain by 2.5" you mean 1/4" (which is the same size as is used on guitar leads, and is larger in diameter than most headphone/earphone connectors). Unrelated but for future reference 3.5mm is often referred to as 1/8", which makes no sense since they're not the same diameter but shhh...

Of course, I imagine a 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable should work just as well as the solution I posted, just connect the smaller, 3.5mm end to your laptop, and the larger, 1/4" end to 'Input 1' on the speakers. Then use the daisy-chaining technique I outlined in the parent post.

If you need stereo separation then that's a completely different matter, if it wasn't already complicated!

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

Close, try this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/

Now if you have an AUX cord (like the wire you'd use to plug an iPhone into a car or set of speakers), that's a 3.5mm stereo minijack cable. You could use that with an adapter like this- you stick this adapter in the back of the mic's receiver pack, then use your AUX cord to go from this adapter to the laptop's Mic port.

Whether you use adapter and aux cord, or the adapter cord I linked, the result is the same.

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

Sorry man. You can plug headphones into the headphone jack, but you don't have to, you can run FROM the headphone jack INTO your Soundcard. Your headphone jack is either a big one (1/4 inch guitar cable size) or it's a little one (1/8 inch, the size that earbuds use). You may need a $5.00 adapter from Walmart/Radio Shack/The Source to go from 1/4 inch, to 1/8 inch.

Latency is a function of your recording software and your soundcard. You might have to adjust your multi-track software or your soundcard driver to reduce latency, but there's no reason to think that you have to live with latency. My computer 15 years ago had zero latency. Software developers typically set a default for playback, they're not typically considering people who record. So they allow lots of latency. But you're literally looking for a slider in your soundcard driver.

I can't be super specific because I don't know what type of computer you have - laptop, desktop, PC, Mac, or what multi-track software you're using, or what your soundcard is.

Allowing latency when you're mixing 32 tracks stops you from dropping out and crashing - if you've got three or four tracks on the go, you don't need latency.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480020460&sr=8-6&keywords=1+4+to+1+8+adapter

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPI9ULK?psc=1

Okay, would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This is my setup for recording using a portable audio recorder in the C152's I'm training in.

I use a 1/4" 1 male to 2 female Y-splitter that goes into the headset plug in the plane. One of the split ends will have the headset plugged into it.

The other split has a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter, which I have a male-to-male 3.5mm cable plugged into. The other end of the 3.5mm cable is plugged into the audio-in port of a portable audio recorder. Total cost of the cable setup is about $15 CAD, most of the cost being the Y-splitter.

You only need to plug into the headset plug in the plane, not the mic, as your mic will be mirrored to your headset anyway so you can hear yourself speak.

Quick search on amazon I did to try to find suitable products:

1/4" Y-splitter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O53/

1/4" to 3.5mm adapter/cable: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3D/

The Y-splitter is mono as most older planes will be mono. The cable is mono to stereo so it'll send the mono audio to both stereo channels in your recorder.

I realized my laptop has a combination jack so would only be mono mic input (I assume)

So if I brought a headphone microphone breakout cable (Breakout) and then got a 1/4 inch mono to 3.5mm mono cable (Cable) that would work right?

From my understanding, the iTrack dock is just an audio interface designed for iPad. So yes, you would send the output from the Bastl Dude into the input of the iTrack dock to record into the DAW.

You probably know this, but if not: to do this, you'll need a 3.5mm cable with a 1/4 instrument adapter to line in to the iTrack dock, or one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

> So there really isn't a term for something like a bookshelf speaker that has an amp?

"Powered studio monitor" should get you pretty far, and the JBL LSR305 is a great one for the money. I had just assumed it was too large and ugly for your needs - I was under the impression you were still looking for something like this.

EDIT - to ensure you get both audio channels, you'll need some sort of mono converter, something like this

I have the 1204USB which is slightly different than your mixer, but I am pretty sure you were on the right track with the "FX send" port -- on my mixer it's the "AUX send", and it's what I use.

You need to pick up a Mono 1/4 ->3.5mm cable like this one. This will take the mono signal from the "FX send" and put it into a stereo signal (Which will just be the mono signal in both ears, but that's fine for a microphone). Then you'll create a mix minus by putting all the red "FX" channel knobs to -infinity except for your microphone's channel, which should be at "0".

Hopefully that works for you!

Use one of these 1/8" mono to 1/4" mono. MS20 Main Output to 1/4" input on the Behringer. Skip using the headphone jack. It does have a small amount of amperage to drive headphones and it's not the best way to get audio to a line level input.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3D/

Depending on the inputs on the back, you need either one of these:

RCA inputs on the back: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Dj-CDQR3-Speaker-Cable/dp/B004UOTA9E

"headphone" inputs on the back: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F

I’m not sure if the effects are stereo, but if you don’t care about going mono, you can use one of these: Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MWqIAbCJBXKEC

Edit: But yes, a 3.5 mm (1/8th) TRS to dual 1/4 TS Y cable would work. Just don’t forget to hard pan each of the channels on the recorder.

Ow that's very very cool.

How many band members? Then by all means, get.. 3 or 4 Sennheiser HD598SE's.
I do have to say something, I am absolutely not an expert on this at all. It's the very first time I've got a request like this before. So I am also learning.

From what I've learned so far, it might not be as easy to simply plug in 3/4 headphones into this splitter that I've found and have awesome sound for all of you.

Because there might not be enough power. Or their might be some interference depending on how it all works..
I really am not sure on this at all.. The idea I currently have should work. Your audio will go like this.

#1

PC ► (via USB cable) DAC ► (via RCA cable) AMP ► (via 6,3mm male to male cable) SPLITTER ► Headphones

I just am not entirely sure if this will work well. Audio is complicated..
I am absolutely not an expert.

---

#2

I also found this device which seems to have an Amplifier build in it. So you don't have to use the AMP at all, then you have 2 options, skip the external DAC completely and go directly from your PC audio (3,5mm jack) to the splitter (6,5mm jack).This way you use the motherboard it's on-board DAC to create the audio. It get's amplified by the device and puts out the sound to the headphones.

PC ► AMP Splitter box ► Headphones

---

#3

Or go from the PC to the external DAC and then go from the RCA connectors to the audio splitter. With this cable. Think that this is a bit cleaner in terms of audio..

PC ► DAC ► AMP Splitter box ► Headphones

---

Although I would probably try the first option above first, if that does not work sufficient, then try the the other 2 options. If that doesn't work..
Then you probably have to tell me and I will need to make a (non living) sacrifice to the audio gods.

^(which means that I have to ask head-fi what the hell we have to do!)

---

I think that all 3 options should work.. But I can't say for sure in all honesty.

PS. Yes I indeed drew a picture for you, no worry.. It's absolutely not a Picasso!
You're hopefully going to find it, if you read my whole rationale!

I recommend getting a dedicated 1/8" Stereo to 1/4" Mono or dual 1/4" stereo cable. If you're running from the stereo main 1/8" out on the Boutique to a single 1/4" mono in its good to convert from stereo to mono (more details: http://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/25577/stereo-and-mono-cables-and-jacks-what-happens-when-you-cross-them ). And, I was using an adapter for a while myself, on the end of a normal instrument cable, so there was this big relatively heavy thing hanging off a single 1/8" jack (on a $400 box) that I began to get paranoid about breaking. Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F with its nicely flexible cable and small, light 1/8" jack and never worry about that again.

Each Volca comes with a stereo 3.5mm cable. Plug one into the sync out of one into the sync in of the other. You'll then need a mixer to hook the headphone out to for each Volca.

Here's a cheap mixer, and you'll need one of these cables for the Bass, and one of these cables for the Sample.

A onespot polarity shifter, hosa stereo 3.5mm to mono TS, and a 2.1mm to 1.7 mm power jack barrel. All available on Amazon

uxcell 2.1 x 5.5mm Female to 4 x 1.7mm Male AC DC Power Connector Adapter Laptop 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZDO400/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5OkybV1G25X1

Truetone CYR Converter for One Spot Power Supply with Reverse Polarity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBG5QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y4OkybMV16QJE

Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u4OkybB24R9P1

This is what you need to get audio going into your PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hook the 1/4 plug into MB Output port and 1/8 plug into your computers Line In. This will allow audio to get to Ableton. From here you will need to Youtube some 'how to connect external hardware to Ableton'. You will be able to use Filters and record audio coming from MB. With USB you can only use it as a midi controller in Ableton.

Instead of getting an audio adapter for GoPro (which doesn't let you record cockpit sound), I recommend buying a digital voice recorder with LINE IN (I have this one) and a simple 1/8in to 1/4in audio adapter cable. You plug the recorder into the headset jack and let it record your intercom, while your camera records the ambient noise. You can mix the two and tune audio levels in post-production. It costs about the same as the GoPro cable you linked to but gives you better results.

(I basically stole the idea from here.

Just you your PC/laptop connector? If your PC is in a hard to reach place, you can get an extender cable like this and route the connector to some other easy to access place when you can plug in/out the headphones from.

The 598s don't really need an amp if you have a PC with decent onboard audio stuff. You can still benefit from a lower cost DAC/DAC+AMP setup.

Here you go

Been looking into the same stuff since mine isn't as clear when using USB. Anyways, you can get a splitter cable and an extension cable. From what I read, you'll need 2 extensions, 1 for mic and 1 for headphones. I got one that came with my old Steelseries headset, but I couldn't find any similar ones.

Good luck, let me know how it went!

I think this may be your cheapest option

Are they 3.5mm jack or USB + 3.5mm jack? If they only need 3.5mm then you can do something simple like this.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-shielded-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7

If you could accept a $4.20 hardware solution, get this and this, and connect Red=>White and White=>Red. No soldering necessary.

If you have a cable length problem, 3.5mm audio extension cables are also quite cheap.

I really like it, the desk especially just need to tidy up those cables. Maybe buy some nice headphones like the ATH-M50x or HD598se? Or just one of these aux cable extensions (3.5 mm M/F extension cable) so you can tuck your earphones behind the desk

If your cable to your headphones isnt long enough, there are audio cable extenders you can purchase for a few bucks.

First result for audio cable extension on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-Female-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415412878&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+cable+extender


So yeah, it even lets you buy longer cables as well for what appears to be a few cents more!


PS - This is assuming you are using a 3.5mm audio headset/headphones.

Edit: I see someone else already beat me to posting a link to a similar cable, oh well.

Well... Why not just use some audio cables?

So, plug the microphone into PC #2, since that needs to have your microphone.

Plug in the outputs of PC 1 and PC 2 together using something like this plus this. Maybe this one would do it all in one go?

If you need longer cables, get an extension

Am I crazy? This'd work, right? As far as I know, audio cables don't have any directionality.

Starting my freshman year of college ;)

I'd keep you in my basement. If only dorms had basements.

It's actually less than $3, but I need this

In theory this cable should work.

You could always try buying a 2 male 1 female audio splitter. To make the cords that go into your computers longer you can buy female to male audio extenders for each side.

http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B001NZVEAQ

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-Female-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376438079&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+extension+cable


Not sure how the sound quality will be but I would imagine this should work.

That's odd. I could've sworn Realtek was one of the ones who actually included this option. Go through everything again just to be sure. If you can't find it try googling your sound card model along with "swap left right" or "reverse stereo" or something like that.

If all else fails, it isn't expensive or difficult to extend the speaker cable. Just get one of these

It's shot. Get a new one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1347500107&sr=1-1&keywords=3.5mm+extension&condition=new

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483618943&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+splitter+jack

> But every 1x 3.5mm female to 2x 3.5mm male I see online splits it into audio (green) and mic (pink).

That's because you're looking for TRRS splitters. You need TRS to 2x TRS like that link.

Like-a dis? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG

I had a similar setup before with my 360 and computer, worked fine, both channels.

This may work https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4

I had a similar issue... I have hdmi to monitor, and monitor outputs to speakers, so I just switch HDMI when I want to go from pc to switch...

But... if you want both hooked up to audio simultaneously, here you go -

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40405-Female-Extension/dp/B001AN0E7K

Get those, it will allow to connect both the monitor and pc to the speakers at the same time. you will need that extension cable because the combiners cords are short.

Yup splitter

This ?

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463958041&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+splitter+jack


http://www.amazon.com/Conwork-2-Pack-Plated-Stereo-Y-splitter/dp/B00ZNTPZLM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1463958041&sr=8-12&keywords=audio+splitter+jack

You could have used something like this for ages. Or something like this

Ok, so based on your situation, I would recommend buying a 3.5mm splitter and a Optical-to-3.5mm DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/

https://www.amazon.com/Amanka-Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter/dp/B01N2Z21IS/

The 3.5mm splitter is so that your speakers can accept two inputs. One from your TV and one from your Apple TV. The DAC is to convert the optical to 3.5mm analog audio when connecting your Apple TV to the speakers.

This way, your game console and Apple TV can both use the 2.1 speaker set and nothing needs to use the built-in TV speakers.

The only sticking point is that you will need to have the TV on mute anytime you are watching content on the Apple TV. Is that a problem?

Edit: My mistake, this is actually the type of 3.5mm splitter you want, not the other one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG

You need two male plugs, not two female.

I haven't actually tried this yet, although I've thought about doing it. Theoretically you could:

1. Get a USB soundcard in addition to your current soundcard.
   
2. Set Teamspeak to output from the USB soundcard and your game audio to output from your regular soundcard.
   
3. Set OBS/whatever you use to capture the two lines on two different tracks.
   
4. Plug the male ends from something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4? _encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I98ZYG&pd_rd_r=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS&pd_rd_w=zwDwU&pd_rd_wg=6s6Jf&psc=1&refRID=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS) into your two soundcards and then plug your headphones into the female end.
   
   In theory that should work. In practice I'm not sure. I might actually try it really soon though.

I found these cables on Amazon, one seems to work for the purpose I'm going for while two doesn't. I'm really confused.

Cable 1

Cable 2

Something like This it splits one 3.5mm jack into two. One for voice one for sound.

Assuming that you are fine with using the right IEM earpiece in your left ear, your best options are:

• Convert all your audio to MONO using Audacity / ffmpeg / other alternative FREE
  
  
• Get yourself a 3.5mm Stereo Male to 3.5mm Mono Female Adapter $8

No. I can't make that kind of guarantee for you that whatever I recommend will work.

You can go to amazon and find any IR cable with a 3.5mm phone jack. They are almost all mono (TS) so you will most likely need an adaptor like this, to turn it into a stereo connection. If you look at similar adapters you'll see many of them have a hexagonal shape to the plastic, those won't fit.

I wouldn't recommend that you buy a cable with more than two IRLED's. If you need more than two IRLED's then you need to look at something pricier.

Could you use a cable or plug to combine the incoming sound to mono?

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

You could use an adapter like this to make the audio mono in both ears.

This?

Nothing on that page would do what you really want.

The things that are labeled "stereo to mono" imply that they are intended to mix a stereo signal into a mono signal. Unless they have some internal resistors (like that home made cable -- which they certainly do not have) then they would simply short the left and right outputs together to connect them to the mono side. And as mentioned it's not really good to short outputs together in general. But even it were OK to short the outputs together it still wouldn't work because the mono side of those adapters will only connect to the tip of a plug. So you'd only get the mono mix in one side of your headphones.

Those "stereo to mono" are really meant to take a mono output and send it two both sides of a stereo input. For example, to send a mono source to both sides of a stereo recorder.

OK (just in case anyone gets any bright ideas), you could connect one of these to the headphone output. Then plug one of these into the first adaptor. Then plug the headphones into the second adapter. That would short (kind of mix) both sides of the output to both sides of the headphones. But don't do that! Because it does short the outputs together and they aren't meant to be shorted together that way. I only mentioned it in case someone saw some potential there and wanted to give ti a go.

this should work, however you'll also need an extension cable likely, to reach your other computer.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36

same thing without the description, which you seem to be tripped up on.

There are MULTIPLE ways to resolve this:

1. Splitters. Send your computer output into a reverse splitter. This means your computer audio will go out (so you can hear donations, music, etc). It also means your game audio will still go into your headphones by plugging in a 3.5mm cable into the other part of the reverse splitter). However, with this solution you'll likely need a 2nd microphone (which often is better anyways because headphone microphones generally are terrible), or you'll need to do another type of splitter that allows for 2.5mm > 3.5mm and it just turns into a mess.
   
2. A lot of headphones have a mixamp that will let you do exactly what you're looking to do without all of the hassle. I still recommend a 2nd microphone (or something like a modmic with a splitter), to get the best sounding stream.

Would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416171006&sr=1-1&keywords=headphone+splitter+female+to+2+male&pebp=1416171012689

Can I use something like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36 the elgato one you linked is for prime only, and the other sellers have it at higher costs. As well, I read a redditor say that it isn't great quality

both. It'll look something like this https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36

Try this cable in combination with the one you already linked.

The overall volume is going to be lower when you use this cable.

To keep the volume the same you will need to buy a mixer.

It's a very basic cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36

Do you have earbuds for an ipod or phone? If so search couch cushions for change and buy this http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36 also available at best buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/monoprice-6inch-3-5mm-stereo-jack-two-3-5mm-stereo-plug-cable/1310944923.p?id=mp1310944923&skuId=1310944923

Well you could try this. Costs 1,5$ and might do the job well enough for you.

Can I use a female to 2 male 3.5mm splitter such as this one to split my headphone mic? Or will this not work because there's a different connection for mic and audio 3.5mm jacks?

I have a senheisser headset with separate audio and mic jacks

so this? Or am I misunderstanding?

If the Apple headphones have built-in mic then they use combined jack for mic and audio. Motherboard uses separate ports, so you will need a splitter cable. Example.

You might be looking for this.
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_13
Your headphone goes into the female end, and you've got one mail for the piano and another for your computer. Of course you'll probably need some extensions to reach each of the devices, but you can figure that out. Good luck!

This may not be the cheapest option, but currently on my r53 I am running an aux kit from the back of my radio into the glove box and then I purchased a 5 foot aux cord so every one in the car can take a turn playing music.
Adaptor -https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PA03AC/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Aux cord -
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO

This media bridge AUX cable is thiiick. I've only had it a month or two but I don't see myself ever having to buy another unless I lose it or slam it in a car door. 10/10 s://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=cm_sw_rapa.iIJxb71V57C0

As for USB, anker w/ their lifetime warranty and excellent customer service. The Kevlar braided ones really aren't worth it unless you like the look IMO the rubber ones will last just as long it seems.

A wireless solution is the best, but the SA-AK240 has a "music port" on the front. Put all of your music on your iPhone/smartphone and connect it from the headphone port to the music port on your CD player using this cable http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+rca+to+mini+rca

As kschange suggested. Something like this plugged into your phone and stereo aux port is probably best idea.

Jesus, how old and behind the times is everyone in this thread? There's way too many of you using FM radio here that don't even like it. Invest in an auxiliary cable if you have an aux port. There are cars that probably date back to the 90s with aux ports. Oldest vehicle in my family that's got one is my dad's Sienna from '06. My 09 Accord has it.

Maybe you're driving something really, really old. Maybe, for some bizarre reason, you still have a cassette player in your car. Get yourself a casette adapter. Inserts into your cassette player, and you plug the other end into your phone, your iPod, whatever. Get Pandora, get Spotify, get Rhapsody (I recommend Rhapsody, it plays new shit depending on the artist).

I just use an iPod, aux cable, and play through that. So much more convenient than ever using that FM Radio that hardly plays music, and when it does, I heard the same song 9 times in an hour.

When you record with MIDI, you don't actually record any sound at all, you record which keys you press and when you press the sustain pedal and so on. All your actions, but no sound.


If you want to get the sound from the piano, you can use a cable from the headphone output on the piano, to the microphone input in your computer with a standard 3.5mm jack (unless you have a 1/4 inch in your piano, in which case you need the little transformer).

You will need a cable like this, but you'll most likely have one somewhere, it's a very standard cable.

Now you can just use any audio recording software you want. Audacity was mentioned, which could easily do it. I believe Windows has a built in sound recording feature, which could do it as well.


If you want to get a REALLY good sound, you should still use the MIDI format, but you'd have to get a good piano sound too. Here's a collection of good sounds. It's quite expensive though. You can edit your track with software too, I don't know if Audacity can do that, it might, but I use something called Reaper. If you made a missplay or something went wrong, you can remove a note, add notes, change velocity, everything. It's quite good and not that difficult at all. With the piano sound software (Komplete) you can use it in real-time too, to make your piano sound like the grandest of all the grand pianos, for an amazing sound, though I'd suggest you go for Synthogy then which, to me at least, has the superior sound.

Whelp, I went out on a tangent here, good luck OP!

EDIT: How do you like your piano? I have the Privia 850 here next to me, just waiting for christmas to set it up.

You will need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm M/M audio cable to transmit the audio from the computer and use your TV like speakers. As you have found out, DVI does not carry audio.

Examples of cables: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372723680&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable

So TV is connected to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66?sa-no-redirect=1

Dot is connected to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO?sa-no-redirect=1

The cables from the TV and Dot go to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Headphone-Splitter-Separate-Controls/dp/B0016CFZQ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478454920&sr=1-2&keywords=headphone+splitter+volume

And that splitter then connects with another one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO?sa-no-redirect=1

Which then connects to the speaker.

Thanks for the help!

Anything like this or this would work then, I assume?

I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).

yeah, that's about the only thing I'm not a fan of. I have a pair of Audio Technica M50s and the plug-in jack is too wide to fit in the headphone jack, but I don't really use those with my phone too often anyway.

The thing that did cause an issue was trying to use the AUX jack in my car, to listen to my music. I owned 3 male-to-male audio cables and all of them had really wide jacks just like the headphones. I had to buy a specific cable to fit the case properly.

This is the cable I bought from Amazon and it fits perfectly. In case anyone else has a similar problem.

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is a popular replacement cable, quite cheap and the one I got. Don't need anything fancy - but I'm not exactly a cable believer.

I will say that the aux cable I use seems to need a little extra force to insert the last millimeter or so into my Nexus 5X. I don't know if this could be happening to you either. Are you able to check whether any other devices have this issue when plugged into your car the same way?

Sorry for the delay.. I forgot to reply.

I'm sure you already got the adapter and cable. The adapter is perfect and the cable might be OK. I would look for one that is only for audio (red and white connectors only, not the yellow video cable.) This one would be good - https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483627337&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+audio+to+3.5mm

With your budget in mind I highly recommend the $180 U-Turn Orbit Basic turntable. I have one that I got with an upgraded cartridge (Grado Black) and it is a superb table. https://uturnaudio.com/collections/all

Speakers... hmmm... That's tougher. Used ones on Craiglist can be great. Just be sure that the foam surrounds are in good shape (this is the foam ring around each driver) and check some online reviews. For new speakers, I think these look like a great option for the price - https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-14M-Reference-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00MGQAH2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1483627753&sr=1-1&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&refinements=p_89%3AKlipsch

I think I've found a solution. I can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-4PETHHA-Extractor-Converter-Digital/dp/B00LPHJEAE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483711838&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor+3.5mm
To extract the audio and then use this: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483711884&sr=8-7&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+rca+male
To send that audio to the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A7J1ANA&pd_rd_r=WHQ3NBYMR83PW6SXJF2G&pd_rd_w=4au9K&pd_rd_wg=Ovnm1&psc=1&refRID=WHQ3NBYMR83PW6SXJF2G thats what I'm using and plugging it into the audio in.

You would need a cable like this between the computer and amp. Not sure about those speakers though. You'll probably have to do some cutting and splicing.

http://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414873611&sr=1-12

One of these will do the job https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface-Software/dp/B0023BYDHK/ and a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/

You need an adapter to 3.5mm jack (also known as minijack).

I'm not sure if the AT-LP60 has a cable attached permanently or not, if so you can use this cable: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Right-Audio-Female-Adapter/dp/B003LVDWOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-7&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm otherwise you can use any regular 3.5mm to rca cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

If the speakers have a permanently attached 3.5mm jack cable, then if the AT-LP60 cable is detachable you need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01KC6BEZQ/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-24&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm or if it isn't, this one https://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122582&sr=8-1&keywords=female+rca+to+female+3.5mm.

Another option even is getting two connectors like this and a regular rca to 3.5mm cable and you should end up with the same thing functionally, I'd personally go with this option.

Oh btw Monoprice.com is great for getting stuff like this, cheap and good quality.

Yeah best bet and still pretty cheap is to go to good will and get a stereo deck cassette deck, they usually are only 5 to 10 and get a cheap wire on Amazon thats a headphone jack to AV. Here's one for 6 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7J1ANA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519364428&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3.5+to+av&dpPl=1&dpID=51hPVy4zynL&ref=plSrch

Plug the 3.5 in your phone the other end in the cassete deck and it'll Probably sound perfect

A simple 3.5mm TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable is all you need. Nothing fancy, just make sure it doesn't look like crap. This one would work.

would this work?

Is this what you are looking for?

edit: Here is one that isn't an add on item.

AmazonBasics 3.5 mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Cable, 2 Feet, 0.6 Meters

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TNbHDbMP1ZRJ3

It’s not as short as you want but the tips are very slim.

That's a really great idea, actually! I hadn't considered that Windows could even do that. So I could do it with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2?
When you raise and lower Alexa's volume on the Dot does it still adjust her individual gain independent of the PC volume?

For the pc audio, the cheapest way I can think of is to buy a male to male audio cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=asc_df_B00NO73IN25082899/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NO73IN2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167122786755&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2059792589148502649&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026848&hvtargid=pla-284071178341 Something like this) and plug one into the gaming pc's audio out on the back of the motherboard and one to the audio in on the streaming pc's motherboard.
As for the head set situation, I dont really see how the cables would plug in (reply to me later in more detail how these work) but I think you could just buy some audio cable splitters and plug one into each pc, and if worse come to worse, have your headset connected to your gaming pc and call your stream pc on discord or skype. Hope this helps!

I am pretty sure this could be done if your radio at work has a 3.5mm auxiliary input. All you do is use a 3.5mm male to male cable and connect one end in the S9 and the other in the auxiliary input of the radio at work. Then the phone will just use the cable as the FM antenna and instead of the sound outputting in your earbuds it would output in the aux input of the work radio. I have never tried this but pretty sure it would work.

​

Use a cable like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2

​

​

You would run an auxiliary cord from the Phones/Output there into your Computer's Line In - it looks like a 3.5mm, which is likely what your Computer's Line In takes, but you probably want to confirm that on both accounts.

If that was the case then something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=auxiliary&qid=1574900948&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1

If that headphone jack is larger, like a 1/4" size you would probably need an adaptor as well, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNFGH61/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07QNFGH61&pd_rd_w=MBuYM&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=k6ok6&pf_rd_r=E7CDMFPXWT2EM38G3WJ7&pd_rd_r=c68b423e-2c47-4d87-b86e-6fae7abd1548&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTjNKTVVOTjFIMURNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ5OTYzMThEVVdORU9TVUw4TCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgzNzQzMVdWNk1ESVI1NjVSNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I'm assuming a few things there, but that's definitely a start!

They worked fine for a time, but then the cable that came with it was accidentally cut, and when i found out they went out of business i kinda gave up on them for a little while.

Recently i bought 2 Stereo cables.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73IN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... and a Y splitter. To see if i could get them to work. And then I ran into this issue.

Do you have any suggestions on cables for either option?

Hello,
Six months ago I purchased my Soundmagic HP150. Now the jack cable is dying on me, so I want to know if the amazon basics or this syncwire cable are compatible with the proprietary screw in. Thanks.

Dude you can get any sound you want in the world. Just get these!

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73MUQ?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_597566_0&pf_rd_p=deb10dd6-0564-50ac-ab18-43a68af55476&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=597566&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GFVX8PV8C3N6J9KZFY26&pf_rd_r=GFVX8PV8C3N6J9KZFY26&pf_rd_p=deb10dd6-0564-50ac-ab18-43a68af55476

Plug one end into your phone and the other end into your controller headphone jack, and your in business 👍

> or is there something I can download on my laptop that can just record the audio from me playing it?

Yes, assuming your laptop has a functional microphone you can do the following:

1. Download Audacity for free from http://www.audacityteam.org/download/windows/ and install it.
   
   
2. Launch Audacity and click OK to hide the tip window.
   
   
3. Select Edit > Preferences from the top menu and then under Devices > Recording make sure that the drop-down next to "Device:" is set to your laptop's microphone. Then press OK.
   
   
4. Click the red Record button at the top. You should then see blue waves when you make noise, indicating the microphone is working correctly.
   
   
5. With Audacity recording from the microphone, play the tape from the cassette with the volume loud enough that the waveform nicely fills the bar like this. Make sure the sound isn't flat-lining or clipping at the top/bottom of the bars or else the volume is too loud.
   
   
6. When the tape (or side) is done recording, hit the yellow STOP button at the top.
   
   
7. Select File > Export Audio. Give it a name and navigate to where you want it to save to, such as the Desktop. Under "Save as Type" select either "WAV (Microsoft) signed 16-bit PCM" or "FLAC" so that the audio does not get compressed or lossy. Then click Save. You don't need to enter any meta data, just click OK again.
   
   
8. Upload the exported WAV/FLAC file(s) either to Soundcloud (requires a free account) or https://mega.nz/ (no account required).
   
   
9. Once uploaded, you will be able to share a link. This is what you can post to Reddit :)
   
   > But I only see holes for "6V/DC, ear spkr, MIC, REM". Am I going to need some kind of cord
   
   If your laptop has a "line in" or "auxiliary" port then you can run a 1/8" standard audio cable from the EAR SPKR port on your cassette recorder to this port on your laptop. Then you can follow the same steps above except in Step 3 you may need to change the sound-in device to "Auxiliary" or "Line In" whichever shows up. A lot of laptops have mic/auxiliary combined into one, and when you plug in a device it will ask if it is a microphone or line-in device. Select line-in device. You can look up your laptop model to see what audio input ports it supports. Then you can record in Audacity and follow all of the steps above and the audio will be a direct copy from the cassette. But the first method is certainly acceptable as well!

Any 3.5mm male trs to 3.5mm male trs cable will work. There's a ton of them available. Here's an example.

You can get them in a variety of lengths, a variety for materials like just straight rubber or cloth braided, and you can get them with either a straight plug or a 90° jack at one end. So keep in mind any of those particular features you might want.

If you want one with an inline volume control, it's still a t-r-s jack at both ends. If you want one that has an inline microphone, it'll have a t-r-r-s jack at one end like this one - that would be for use with something like a single-jack laptop or phone.

I know in the post you submitted in the other subreddit that someone mentioned you should look for something with a slim barrel. That's not really something you need to worry about with the MSR7. For example, the 3.5mm cable I use for all my headphones that have the 3.5mm jack at the cup is this one which, if you notice, has a pretty fat barrel at the jack. It's works just fine on my MSR7 's.

On the back of your Xbox, there should be a a plug where you can plug in standard headphones (a 3.5 mm audio jack). Get an audio cable with two male 3.5 mm ends like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522676285&sr=8-3&keywords=male+to+male+audio+cable

Plug that cable into the back of your Xbox and the other into the audio "line in" plug in the back of your computer. Usually you will see three audio plug on the back of your computer for a plug this size. One plug for a mic, one for headphones and one for "line in". Plug it into the line in.

Now right click on the speaker icon on your task tray and select the "Recording Devices" option in the popup. In the resulting window, make sure that the "Recording" tab is selected. Then double click on the "Line In" option in the list. This will open another window. Choose Listen tab, check Listen to this device. Choose playback through Default playback device and click Apply button. You may have to then play with the audio levels in Windows but it should now work.

Good luck.

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable - 4 Feet (1.2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cBD0AbD3G7SP1

The Dollar Tree sells a similar aux cable to this for $1. Cut the ends off and put them in your phones.

If you lower the capture quality on the capture software you should be good, even with a low end computer.

Just remember that the usb cable doesn't do audio, so you'll need to get one of these cables and plug it into the mic port on your computer.

Yeah, for aux, you'd plug something like this into your phone:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=1%2F8+inch+cable&qid=1568299407&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTjJLRDNRT0tTNDM5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDM3NTQ5Uk1FQ0lXWDdVSElHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTE0NTVRUjgyN1VNTU9XNzcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I've been using bluetooth with the Samson speaker I linked above and it's been working nicely. But a backup aux cable wouldn't be a bad idea.

You need a cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sxin_2?crid=3FB7JKUQWSTJX&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable&pd_rd_i=B00NO73MUQ&pd_rd_r=72b9b9ea-59b7-4df3-a6f1-4fc72e19eca4&pd_rd_w=xQ3Zk&pd_rd_wg=nxZR9&pf_rd_p=70355792-caa9-41b7-bbcc-bee9ee21b884&pf_rd_r=WS8BQ5DDB24808KDG6RY&qid=1549734970&s=gateway&sprefix=3.5mm%2Caps%2C177

It’ll go from the headphone jack to the back of the SegaCD.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ

They make a 2, 4 and 8 foot cable.

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar

​

​

If you want a really cheap way you could just get a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and plug one end into the controller and one end into the line in port on the sound card. Only problem with this is that you will have a cord going from the controller to the computer lol.

EDIT WITH SOLUTION FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS

Need two additional cables:

1. Female to two females 3.5mm
   
   
2. 2x A simple male to male 3.5mm
   
   Setup:
   
   1x Male to male into Echo (out)
   
   1x Male to male into PC (out)
   
   Both into female to female split
   
   Speaker 3.5mm to phono into last female to two females slot. (in)
   
   Now my PC shares speakers with Echo (even when PC is off, but bear in mind that my speakers have a separate plug)

Can I plug my computer into my stereo speakers' amp with a simple 3.5mm aux cable?

When I've tried, I get an interrupted audio connection with some occasional blasts of loudness. Headphones work fine, so I think I need a different cable.

For reference:
My PC Case
My Amp
Example cable

I believe this cable should do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496082014&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+to+3.5+cable

There is a AUX IN on the side of that speakers, so asusming your Phone has a Headphone out, then you need a -

3.5mm Stereo to 3.5mm Stereo cable.

Though in a rare case you Phone might have a 2.5mm Stereo Headphone connection.

You can find either of these cables on Amazon -

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ

https://www.amazon.com/2-5mm-3-5mm-Quality-Stereo-Audio/dp/B0122W34AG


Which is appropriate for you depends on which Smart Phone you have.

i looked at this 3.5mm jack to jack adapter and this is what i have will this work?

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=regular+3.5+audio+jack&qid=1571130392&s=electronics&sr=1-5

​

also i'm using a PS vita 2000 with henkauk 3.60 the basic hacking stuiff.

also i get this once i plug my that cord in my PC

​

https://imgur.com/a/inNWPV6

​

what one should i pick.

The very worthwhile new improved X version is the Audio-Technica AT-LP60XBT $149. However you can save $49 for the overpriced Bluetooth module by getting the Audio-Technica AT-LP60X $99 and a 3.5 mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable, 4 Feet $5 to connect to the Aux input on your Bluetooth speaker.

Or a better turntable, Teac TN-300SE, $129 with coupon code SPIN and a 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 4 Fee $6 to connect to the Aux input on your Bluetooth speaker.

the 3.5mm audio jack can cause interference with the I/O shield from the motherboard. Try getting a gold plated 3.5mm audio jack cord since it prevent issues like this from happening.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505320017&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable&psc=1

I am guessing you are using the one that came with your speakers.

Easy enough; your Xbox has Optical Out for audio. You can bypass the monitor altogether. Just grab an Optical to 3.5mm adapter (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B008EPW7TA)

And plug an optical cable in from the Xbox to this adapter, and then a 3.5mm audio cable from the adapter to your speakers. Amazon makes an AmazonBasics one here for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/

You might need to play with the Audio Output settings menu on your Xbox, but I think this will work!

So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742465&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+extension

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742502&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+extension

EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!

Buffys_dad is correct, you will need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable like this one here. You will want to connect this to the unbalanced input on the speaker and then into you laptop.

If you are using the aux in, just add a splitter before that and route one to the sound bar and one to the drums.
one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUY1MFFS-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0081ZBNI4

two of these. one to sound bar, one to drums
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73Q84/

If you are using the optical in:
you can split that as well with an optical to analogue DAC. Then split it. But you need to recalibrate.

You just need a cable. Not sure if they come with it. You can get one for $5 so you might want to grab one just in case.

No, but it didn't degrade it either. This is an AmazonBasics 8ft. cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NO73Q84/

I'm too much of a moron to not tug cables, so having a long cable is a blessing. Plus it reaches all the way to the back of my PC into my SoundBlaster.

Stick to discord assuming you only want to be talking with your friends, but if you want the actual audio from Switch mic n game then you need a headphone input splitter -
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Headset-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B07569QKQQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

• no idea if the Switch will still detect the mic/headphone but at least that cable splitter does have mic/headphone on both
  
  Then a cable like this to the computer mic input(or to your portable capture card if it has mic input) - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

shouldn't be any difference between the two jacks.

as for the audio cord between the two, anything will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

Here is the cable use for mine, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

It's works very well and comes in many sizes. It feels high quality to.

If your phone has a headphone port,

a simple 3.5mm stereo to 3.5mm stereo patch cable

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

I have a cable running from the Yeti monitor output to my streaming PC mic input.

Funny, I'm having a different issue with my Z906's right now that I just posted :D

Anyway, before my current issue, I was experiencing this as well. I tried a few different things, but I'm not exactly sure which ended up setting it right, so YMMV.

Are you using the 3.5mm (analog in your post) cable that came in the box? That one gave me some grief so I bought three AmazonBasics 3.5mm cables and they did wonders.

Dumb question potentially, but since you didn't specify: did you configure the speakers in Playback Devices? Potential fix there.

Last question, another potentially dumb one. Did you set your speakers to be the Default Device? I have to switch back and forth between headphones and speakers and lose it occasionally before I realize I forgot to.

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73Q84/

What is your budget for everything? And which region are you buying from?

I figure you need, headphones, DAC, AMP, Speakers, and maybe some cabling

One thing i just noticed is that the Headset you have chosen connects using a 4 pin 3.5mm, this will mostly likely mean that it will need to be plugged in to a headset output(headphone+microphone). most DACs /AMPs only have a headphone out. So you will either need to use a splitter, joiner and an extension cable to run the microphone signal back to your PC or think about using a different set up. (let me know if you want me to explain this more)

If this is your first try at an audiophile set up I would say keep it simple and get a joint headphone/speaker DAC and AMP. The SMSL 18 http://amzn.to/2q2ch8C should fit all you needs (if you have a >$400 budget for everything you might look at something else) then you would only need to get the speakers and the cabling for the microphone signal

So the set up would be

- headset to Splitter (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gwsADbB3QTX8G )

- Microphone end to microphone port on PC using normal 3.5mm cable (3pin)

- headphone out to headphone out of SMSL AD18 using normal 3.5mm cable (3pin)

- SMSL AD18 to computer over USB cable

- SMSL AD18 to passive speakers with speaker cable

​

you can swap out the SMSL AD18 with any headphone, speaker AMP/DAC .. here is list of recommended ones https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/9v45wr/zguides_dac_amp_combos/ see the DESKTOP DAC + HEADPHONE AMP + SPEAKER AMP COMBO's section

You could always get a separate DAC and AMP as you mentioned, but it does add more cabling and likely more cost at a beginner level. if you have more than ~$500 to burn IMHO it may become worth it

The other part which is often recommended is not to get a headset but buy a good pair of headphones and get an add on mic (the Antlion ones are often recommended)

EDIT: sorry should have also mentioned that when you unplug the headphones the sound would change to the speakers, at worst you would need to press a button on the AMP/DAC

If you plug in to something besides your PC are the channels still switched? If so you might want to exchange them. I don't think there's a software way in Windows to reverse channels but you could split the mic to its own cable then for the headphone side plug in 3.5mm->RCA then RCA->3.5mm but plug the RCAs into the opposite colors so the channels get switched.

Yeah turns out you'll need a splitter to solve this problem. I bought one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519281635&sr=8-9&keywords=splitter

Your PC has separate connectors for audio output and mic input (green and pink connectors). Your P3 sends and receives signal with only one cable.

That means you to use a splitter cable adapter to get audio output and mic input on a PC.

I can only think of very few situations where a splitter wouldn't work, so I'd honestly say that you're safe.

Here's one I put out there a few days back: Cable adapter

I think you'll need something like this to make it work:

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_14?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1472751980&sr=1-14

Even modern PCs typically have separate jacks/ports for the headset audio and the microphone.

Assuming it's one of the headsets that uses a single plug for headphone and microphone, you'll need a splitter cable to split it into the separate microphone/headphone connectors used by desktops. https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466557104&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter

looks like you will need something like this -> http://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4?ie=UTF8&keywords=headphone%20audio%20mic%20splitter&qid=1465313151&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

That's because those are a 4pin headset and the 3.5mm jack on your PC is 3pin only. You'll need something like this so you can plug them into both the headphone jack and the microphone jack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

So looking at the user's manual, it looks like there's the unit that plugs into the Xbox One controller and then a standard 3.5mm jack as well. For a PC it looks like you'll need to use just the 3.5mm plug but you'll want a splitter so it plugs into both the audio and mic jacks. I actually had the reverse problem- I had a combo jack in my laptop but a headset with dual plugs, so I got a reverse adapter for that :P

This is how they’re supposed to be by design. Most computers now have it this way. Usually headsets will have a splitter but if you don’t happen to have one they’re pretty cheap. here’s one for $6 USD on Amazon. As a general rule, the green jack is for headphones and the pink is for microphone, which is why the pink one is the only one that’ll let you use your mic on the back of your computer.

You might need to get a splitter. Since the earbuds and mic are all in one plug. The splitter will have one female in, and two male outs.

Example

I would recommend the Sennheiser Urbanite XL.
Just really good headphones with an inline mic for when you need it.

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Urbanite-XL-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B00M3NZKA2/ref=sr_1_12?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1464997012&sr=1-12&keywords=sennheiser+headphones

and one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464996989&sr=8-2&keywords=sound+and+mic+splitter

Buy this splitter. I bought it and it's done exactly what you need.

Kinda sucks having to spend more money after your build is all said and done, but luckily it's only a few bucks.

Edit: I found this one which seems to be the same thing but a few dollars cheaper. I don't own this one so I can't vouch for it's reliability. The decision is yours.

There was only the Realtek HD Audio Driver. I think the consensus in r/buildapc was that I have to buy a cable that splits the mic and headphone. (Ex: Here)

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

You might need a 3.5mm mic-headphone splitter because your PC probably doesn't have a 4 pole input on the mobo which will take a mic. Namely this: https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467016469&sr=8-5&keywords=3.5+mm+splitter

You can then use standard TRS extension cables to extend the headphone and mic cables individually.

Is this a moble-style set of earbuds? If so, they're likely meant for a combination headphone/microphone jack, and connect with a single connector, right?

Most PCs have separate headphone & microphone jacks. If this is the case for you, something like this can make them work.

Sounds like you have a headset with only one connector, likely meant for phones or a console. Unfortunately, these don't generally work with most PCs. You'll need to purchase an adapter cable like this in order to split the 4-pole connector into the two 3-pole 3.5mm connectors.

If your front panel has two connectors --one for audio and one for microphone like the Meshify C, would

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

work?

3.5 mm audio splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518275&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+splitter

you may need to use a splitter on the pc as mic and headphone inputs are seperate.


https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493036510&sr=1-4&keywords=headset+splitter

I feel like This is what you're looking for

He needs the Exact opposite of that. His new headset uses a 3.5mm 4 pole combo jack so he needs a Splitter like This.

Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oTuMybHXE13KT

This will split a headset with mic into the two plugs.

Or Logitech g230 will plug right in.

Logitech G230 Stereo Gaming Headset with Mic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFOEY4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CVuMybWN2A1RF

You will notice looking ah the plug on it that there are 3 lines instead of the normal 2. While it works in a headphone jack on your PC, the headset needs to be plugged into a combo headphone mic jack. Many desktop PC's don't have this type of jack, but laptops often do. Then again your doesn't.

You can buy this to be able to plug it into the 2 ports:

https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466083438&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter

Or I would suggest returning it for one with split jacks.

I know you said it sucks and dont want.
It sucks and you have too.....

Proper would work, but you can buy adapters. I think monoprice has one.

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=wireless

You'll have to buy a splitter and then connect the mic cable to your mic port.

This is the mix amp I have. And the cable I bought. Do I not need this cable?

https://www.amazon.com/ASTRO-Gaming-MixAmp-Pro-xbox-360/dp/B004L6C6BK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think you'd need something like this, although I'm pretty sure it merges the Left and Right channels into Mono.

Edit: That actually probably isn't what you're looking for.

I'm pretty sure you will need a splitter similar to this one.

If it were me, I would try plugging them into the headphone port and trying it, but I'm pretty sure you would not be able to use your mic that way. The audio out should work fine though.

1. TaoTronics Bluetooth 4.1 Transmitter / Receiver, 2-in-1 Wireless 3.5mm Adapter (aptX Low Latency, 2 Devices Simultaneously, For TV / Home Sound System) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y-QBzbT37KQGZ
   
   
2. KOTION EACH 2.0 USB External Sound Card Adapter for PC Laptop Windows Mac OS Linux, AFUNTA Audio Adapter Cable, No drivers Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_paRBzbT1ARK78
   
   This is my exact setup for use with my qc35 over Bluetooth. You can plug in link 1 to the audio port and a mic to the mic port to get voice chat. I use my Bose qc25's inline mic cord as a mic. It still works as a mic even though it's not actually connected to any headphones.
   
   For wired voice chat with qc35, I connect my Bose qc25 cable with inline mic to my qc35. I plug that in to
   
   
3. Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dfRBzbP9TP0BS
   
   and plug that into link 1. Can confirm voice with the wired setup.
   
   I know it's complicated but it's what I came up with. I had the same question you did with the same amount of answers. So I hope this helps.
   
   I'll check later if I can just Bluetooth my voice to that splitter without inline mic. Can't test it now though.
   
   
   

What headset are you using? You're probably going to need a mixer. This is probably going to be your cheapest option. There's even bundles that come with refurbished headsets for about the same price.

Basically, you'll take an optical audio cable out from your console and feed it into this, then you'l need to use an aux cable from your PC into this, then run the audio out from this to your headset. For this to work, you'll need a headset that has 2 separate plugs for the mic and the audio, or an adapter that will split it for you if you only have a single wire that goes to your headset. The volume of your PC will be controlled by the actual volume setting on your PC and the volume of the headset can be adjusted with a knob on this or the volume adjustment on your headset itself.

Also, on your Xbox, set the audio all the way to prioritize chat since the game audio is coming directly out of your Xbox.

Headset 3.5mm jacks are Tip/Ring/Ring/Sleeve. Standard audio jacks are Tip/Ring/Sleeve. When you plug in your headset to a standard mic jack, it connects to the speakers.

You need a TRRS to TRS headset adapter.
https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492053230&sr=8-4&keywords=trrs+splitter

You will need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

Isn't this what you want? pretty easy find on Amazon

Although I couldn't find where it says it explicitly on the MSI site, this is most likely accurate. They are rather cheap and they even come with a lot of gaming headsets meant for multiple platforms.

First result on Amazon. Cannot speak for the quality, I would just make my own in this instance. [Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PJoiybJ81J87H)

You could consider buying something like this which will get rid of your middleman and should help with sound quality and latency. It should also solve your problem assuming it's with your controller setup.

I think you need a special splitter. Headset probably has 3 channels (stereo L/R + microphone) and regular 3.5mm splitters only have the stereo.

Maybe something like
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

Actually I never came across such a splitter, but that's just because I never look for cables or splitters, I solder all cables, adapters and splitters myself.

I guess I would start searching for something like "microphone headphone splitter".

EDIT: man I'm good at searching:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=wireless

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502383900&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+splitter+male

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Drivers aren't an issue here. The headset is a passive device, the drivers control the audio hardware in the computer and have no bearing on the function of the headset.

The headphones have a TRRS plug, while your computer has TRS jacks. You'll need an adapter like this. You might have to try a couple different adapters to find one that works, because there are a couple different ways TRRS plugs can be wired.

Not sure if it makes any sense, but I bought a 3.5mm splitter for microphone and headset audio so I can bypass the USB and plug 3.5mm directly into my motherboard and the sound got drastically better.

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

Use a splitter
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kodMAbGD14G97

Does the mic work if you don't have anything plugged in to audio out?

You might need a splitter like this.

Oh I have no idea what cord the H151 has. I've never used it, but sometimes people miss out on it so I thought maybe that option would of help. So is it just one usb that works both as mic/sound. Or is it like aux output thing where it's mic/sound in 1. If so that's your problem(2 in 1 cord non usb). Although it's an easy fix just pick one of these up https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483076629&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+and+headphone+splitter

only laptops as far as I know besides phones have the ability to use 2 in 1 cables. Since most desktop's don't include it. You can do that or go USB choice is yours :)

I think a 3.5mm audio cable that has a female jack on one end and then splits into a headphone plug and mic plug on the other end would work better. something like this: Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_YkcRwbA2CMW70 (maybe not this exact one but same idea)

OP, all you would have to do is plug your headphones into this cable, then put the microphone end into the microphone port on your PC, and the audio end into the audio port on your PC.

with a splitter like this

http://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452368020&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+headphone+mic+splitter

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478803701&sr=8-1&keywords=apple+headphone+mic+splitter

The HyperX Cloud Stinger Core. It's the same as the Cloud Stinger (which is $50) except it's for consoles, so you might have to buy an adapter from one 3.5mm Jack to two to use the headset and mic at the same time, but you can get an adapter for like $5.

The PS4 one is $40 and the Xbox one is $35 (there is NO DIFFERENCE except for color)

Headset: https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Stinger-Core-Playstation/dp/B07KYC1VL7/

Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

I am assuming that your headphone/mic have a composite pin, i.e the same pin for audio and mic. In that case you require one of these to connect the headphones/mic to your desktop. If you only want to use the mic and not the headphones, plug-in only the mic jack into the computer.

Yeah, you have headphones plugged into the mic-in.

Depends on how it's wired, but it's probably similarly to microphones that use a 1/4"/XLR connection. If you're trying to get the mic on the cable to work as a mic, you'll likely need a splitter to separate the Mic line from the headphones as how they're hooked up now is just using the headphones as a mic.

Something like this to get the mic input seperate Although sized appropriately for the jacks you're working with.

That's why I used this with my ATH-M50X:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coupled with the USB 3.5mm adapter in the previous comment

USB 3.5 mm adapter :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1466046980&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+3.5mm+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41AM133RwuL&ref=plSrch

I don't think any normal motherboards support that input but I did find a splitter that will allow it to work with any normal motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1466038715&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphone+cable+with+mic&dpPl=1&dpID=41cbMLBbOWL&ref=plSrch

I'm on mobile, hopefully that link works.

In the same vein, does anyone know of a female-to-two-male splitter for the newest model Earpods that keeps the mic functionality? I've tried this and this but neither makes the mic usable.

Don't buy that. This type of adapter will be much more reliable. I thought about it a bit. Anyways, enjoy

There are two types of TRRS breakout cables. Between the two types the mic and ground rings are flipped. I had the same issue with the first adapter I bought(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG), the second adapter I tried worked fine for me(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/).

if it's headphones that use for your phone youre gonna need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but if it's just a mic then check your ports

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482075359&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=headset+and+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E3ZM8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1482568149&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=splitter

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482568187&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

The one u/lifelongcaboose linked won't work because it's a combiner, not a splitter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_5y3Jyb89TAE5E

You could use just an audio cable. Won't be wireless technically, but it works by plugging it into your controller.

1. download audacity
   
   
2. obtain an aux cord
   
   
3. plug the aux cord into both the speaker and microphone ports of your computer
   
   
4. play the radio and hit record on audacity. edit as needed

[This] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK) Anker cord.

>If you look at the bottom of the mini mic and see port holes, you have the 2+.

So I need to get a cable like this and just slip into the green speaker input on the back of the motherboard input / output and then the other end into the mini mic?


In terms of sound quality would this be just as good as the phone clip bluetooth?


Also as far as the phone clip and bluetooth, could the phone clip also work with any bluetooth speaker?

Anker 3.5mm Premium Auxiliary Audio Cable (4ft / 1.2m) AUX Cable for Headphones, iPods, iPhones, iPads, Home / Car Stereos and More (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EiKxCb2WQJEG3

I have this cable. I would also recommend buying a couple of cheaper cables.

Thanks. I remember the aux and phones output on my amp. So will something like this do ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CV0JSKE/

Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.

You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.

I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.

Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.

I have these headphones. I lost the original cable and I can't find any 3.5mm cables that are slim enough to fit. This doesn't fit for example.

Which cable can I use?

If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:


Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.

Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.

3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.

​

That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.

​

Into the rear of the Zoom. The cable is this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R124LAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it does work....with the slight glitches mentioned

I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:


BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables


I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...


Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..


Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...


BT Splitter


Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.

Hey guys, I want to get a volume control knob for my speakers, something like this one. The thing is, I want to control the actual volume of the speakers, not the volume from windows. Is there any potentiometer thingy that could stick in the back of my speakers? Or any diy method of doing this? I'm prepared to use a soldering iron if that's necessary.

EDIT: I found this controll knob which looks like it might do the trick, but it's quite ugly and fairly expensive for what it does, are there any better options?

I received a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50x headphones as a gift because my old generic headphones broke. I'm no sound enthusiast and I know I need an amp of some sort to get the full quality for headphones but I'm kind of low on money. My main problem is that the headphones have no volume control if I use them on a computer. Would something like this work in the meanwhile?

https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Control-Headphone-Speaker/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This is just a knob with in and out

A headphone DAC / amp combo would have more features and act like an external soundcard. The Micca OriGen+ or the Schiit Fulla 2 are great options if you want something really nice.

Edit: added links

Maybe something like this?

Volbox: Volume Adjuster Stereo Control Knob 3.5mm 1/8" Headp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_euWpzbEXA60T3

The cheapest DAC/preamp is the Schiit fulla 2, this device would work too https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Control-Headphone-Speaker/dp/B00XDKKQ9E

Okay, I found a solution after a bit of research. A RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback + 3.5mm Stereo Male To Dual RCA Female Audio Adapter + volume control attenuator will solve the problem, for about $20 to $30.

they are a little bigger of what I had in mind, but I have to admit that the Sys is beautiful

I had something like this in mind:

something like:

• https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Stereo-Control-3-5mm/dp/B00XDKKQ9E
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/Digispark-Volume-Control/
  
• http://es.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-zx
  
  
  
  

Ah, okay. I probably wouldn't use the Sys, then. What I would do is just use this if you're cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Stereo-Control-3-5mm/dp/B00XDKKQ9E

But otherwise, you could always pick up the Schiit Fulla 2. Use that as your sound card. You can use its volume control knob for your headphones, and also it has a variable output that's controlled by the volume knob that would go to your speaker input. But that's also $99, so it might be overkill. Though, that OL Switcher has 3.5mm input and output, too, though you could potentially be degrading the sound, too. Though if you're using cheap enough headphones, it's not an issue, realistically.

Thanks for the suggestions! I ended up finding and buying this a few hours ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems like it will do the same job, just with different input/output. Will it matter that this uses Stereo in and out? I am planning to run a Male to Male 3.5mm Stereo from my Center/Sub port on my Motherboard, I will plug that into the device IN. Then I will run the 3.5mm Stereo from the device out to the Subs Mono Port for LFE. This should work fine right? Will I still get the full signal?

Depends on what you want.

This is for a PC right? So you're listening close up. That's a factor because the JBL's are designed for that.

JBL's with a $100 Dayton sub will sound great, be balanced, and provide more bass than any pair of bookshelf sized speakers on their own.

I'm guessing they mean because the JBL's are powered (they have amplifiers inside of them) then if you want to upgrade you just have to sell them and buy a new system. If you get an amplifier and speakers then you can upgrade the speakers or the amplifier separately. I'd add that the JBL's probably have more resale than Elac's or something like that if you consider upgrading a factor.


Don't worry about the XLR inputs if you don't need them - use these

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stereo+breakout+cable&qid=1563309739&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They will plug in the little green audio output you can use for headphones.

For the subwoofer - does your PC have an orange 3.5mm audio output? If so hook that up to the subwoofer using these kinds of cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3.5+to+rca&qid=1563309802&s=gateway&sr=8-5

The brands I'm linking don't matter, just the type of cable they are.

Also, here's a version of the cable you need:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3S4S

Cool, thanks for the info. I think actually that this is the cable I need, I posted a question on amazon to see if it would work. I think the one you linked is to send a signal from say an iPod to your mixer. http://www.amazon.com/Y-Cable-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

I think any speaker with an aux input should hook up via this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Rz2mDb4QX06B5

I always recommend JBL Bluetooth speakers due to how great my experiences have been with them, but almost any Bluetooth speaker available today will have an aux input.

To be more precise about what I've done:

From the audio out on the back of my PC, I plugged in the 1/8th inch inline ground loop isolator like what I linked above. Into the socket end of that I plugged in a 1/8 to 1/4 inch Y cable (or a splitter cable), then the ends of this Y cable plug straight into the JBL monitors. I have used something like this as the Y cable:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/

Does that make the set up a bit more clear?

Is the cable you're looking for? https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Gold-Plated-Interface-Instrument-Amplifier/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/

+1 LR split cable is the only way.

UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord Compatible for iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Cards, CD Players, Multimedia Speakers and Home Stereo Systems 6FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4eCIDb9H81XN1

Do you have a pair of headphones terminated in 1/4"? If so you could try monitoring the signal before it reaches the computer.


My first recommendation, if you haven't already tried, would be to unplug the USB and plug it back in.


My second recommendation would be to change over to analog. You'll need a cable similar to this one. It would plug into the output on the back of the mixer, and the light blue port on your PC. If your PC doesn't have that port you can use the microphone port.

No reason an RCA to 1/8 converter wouldn't work that I can think of. Now for when it comes to 1/4 to 1/8, I use this and this

Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.

Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.

This appears to be the same product on the UK site.

This appears to be the same product on the French site.

This appears to be the same product on the German site.

OK, I'm done.

I'm trying to figure out how I can pair this with my computer. I wanted to get a dac/amp combo to power this thing but I'm unsure about what connections will work. I was looking into this thing but wasn't sure how it'd connect to the speakers. Could I use something like this?

Here's what I currently have:


2 JBL 308P MkII - Powered 8" Two-Way Studio Monitors
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Monitor-Speaker-308PMKII/dp/B077NHM2K6/


1 UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3S4S/


1 Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/


1 Google Chromecast Audio (Black) 

https://www.google.com/chromecast/audio/explore/

​

​

The red dots symbolize want I do not have yet. I'm working on eventually getting:

1 JBL LSR310S 10" Powered Studio Subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR310S-Powered-Studio-Subwoofer/dp/B00I08RT3U/

1 Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Second Generation (2nd Gen) 2-in, 2-out USB Audio Interface

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i2-Generation-Interface/dp/B01H4W34WW/




​

Note: I have all that I need right now, but know that I may eventually buy a subwoofer for my studio monitors, which would make the setup more complicated. I only need help with adding the subwoofer. How will I do it? Will I need more cords and another ground loop isolator? Do I need an audio interface to add a subwoofer? How will I connect my 2 studio monitors and future subwoofer to my Chromecast Audio, my future audio interface, and a ground loop isolator?

If you have an audio interface with 2 spare line inputs and direct monitoring capabilities, you can run a 1/8" to 1/4" T-cable from your TV/monitor's headphone jack to the interface and route the audio signal straight to your headphones. The interface that I use to accomplish this is a Focusrite Scarlett 18i8, but I believe the cheaper 6i6 model would work as well. While I wouldn't necessarily recommend buying an audio interface solely for this purpose, it provides a very convenient way for me to hear my consoles and PC at the same time while also recording from my microphone.

When the mic is unplugged I still get the same hum. My cables. Is there something better I could get?

3.5mm to rca cable

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC

Plug it in to the computer just like computer speakers I don’t remember which color port it is

Buy the Micca MB 42X speakers not the MB42. MB 42X has a crossover and sound much better.

Speakers to the amp will be bare speaker wire or banana plugs speaker wires/cables - kind of look like RCA but different

Need 2
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Cable-Gold-Plated-Banana/dp/B07FDB34ZR

Or ( you will have to cut the wire and strip the ends)

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY

I run Micca MB42X with a topping MX3

That amp will Work but a lil weak.

Alternative amp with more power

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC

More power plus Bluetooth

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated-Subwoofer/dp/B07JVFY27T

You can get a amp that is just an amp or you can get a combo that is the dac/ headphone amp and speaker amp with Bluetooth.

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5

If you choose a dac/amp it will hook up via optical or USB and it bypasses your computer soundcard and dac becomes the sound card - The external dac is generally better than a computer sound card unless you have a nice/upgraded sound card.

Alright, so first you need to confirm that your subwoofer is capable of powering speakers. It has a cord that plugs into the wall right?

Next, you'll need a way to get the signal from your phone to the subwoofer. To be flexible, you should buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Speaker-Female-Adapter/product-reviews/B00G352P2C/

The wires will plug into your subwoofer on the "input" connectors. It looks like the outer 2 of the 4 wires plug into the black tabs, and the inner two wires plug into the red tabs.

Then, you need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Obviously one side plugs into your smartphone, and the two round connectors plug into the first product.

Finally, you need to hook up two of your speakers to the subwoofer using the speaker wire. Each speaker connects to the red and black tab pair on either side of the "Output" text.

Let us know when you have it all set up and playing music!

Thanks, didn't realize the sale joke =)

I currently have a FiiO E12 (portable amp), so I'm thinking about upgrading. I still need to sit down and really listen to them, which I'm so pumped about. I'm guessing I'll just need one of these to connect my Macbook to the Valhalla?

Like

4x amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC

And 4x amazon.com/dp/B00NMUE2P4

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B002HPNDDW should be good

And 4x parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B00AF88BRG

I think that would sound pretty great, PC and all

Looking at either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC%C2%AE-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474419668&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWM54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474419474&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+optical

Something like this:

RCA Cable, iXCC 6ft Dual Shielded Gold-Plated 3.5mm Male to 2RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UdqZBbTNVNXG8

Just plug the two rca ends into any input: cd, dvd, blu Ray etc.

I found this amp:

https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I think i am going to use this with a cable like the one below and just use the AUX on my PC

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

What do you think? I plan to buy a DAC in the future if I am having issues. You think this will work for what I want?

Hey everyone!

I was wondering if anyone has any experience hooking up a Crack with their Xbox One Controller. Last year I was running my ATH-M50 (with a Modmic) directly though my controller and that worked with no issues.

However, after building my Crack and getting the HD650, I've just tried to plug in the Crack into the 3.5 jack in the controller - but get no audio. Plugging the HD650 directly into the controller does work though - but obviously then they are not amped.

Anyone have any suggestions? I am cross-posting on /r/XboxOne and on the Bottlehead forum as well.

Please save me from resorting to using them unamped lol

Here's the RCA Cable I am using from my Crack: which works perfectly fine through my laptop and phone

Deleted my separate post as I realized it was not in accordance with Rule 3.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H9DGEV3HH7CH763PX0BJ
This and any a/v receiver new or old.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH130-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B006U1VH2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499180208&sr=1-3&keywords=stereo+receiver

or goto ebay and get a used one. Many to be had for $50 or less.

If headphones plugged into the DAC sound normal I think you can rule out any sort of down mixing problem. I strongly suspect the issue is with your cabling. There should be no quality loss going between RCA, 1/4" and 1/8" plugs just make sure you are not commingling mono and stereo parts. On the 1/4" and 1/8" plugs, mono cables will have two contacts (the tip and a sleeve, a.k.a. TS). On stereo plugs there are three contacts (the tip, a ring, and the sleeve, a.k.a. TRS). If you look at the RCA cable I linked to above, you will see it's mono, which is what you want. On the other hand if you look at a cable like this you will see it's combining two RCA plugs into a single stereo plug, which is NOT what you want.

My friend owns a pair of these Dayton B652-AIR bookshelf speakers which I think sound really great for the price. I've heard good things about the cheaper model as well. AFAIK, the only difference between these two speakers is the tweeter, and I gather that it's worth the extra money, but I haven't heard the low-end model myself. The AIR model is definitely worth it for the price.

You can power these with the little Lepai 2020 amp, or (even better) a second-hand home theater receiver if you can find one cheap. The Lepai has both a Treble and Bass knob for basic curve tweaking, and a pushbutton "pass-through" that disables them. Most receivers are likely to have more features, more power, and better tone control.

All you'll need then is an appropriate amount of speaker wire (It doesn't need to be anything fancy) and a decent 3.5mm to RCA cable

Presto Dunzo!

I know that you wanted to keep it to $80 for a new system, but if you get everything through Parts Express and it breaks $100, you'll get free shipping. Check out the cart I built.

Looks like your TV allows audio out through optical and 3.5mm ports, and your DVD system allows audio input for composite in the back. You should be able to get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and match those connections.

To expand on this, on page 30 in this manual for your DVD system, LINE 4 IN will allow you to connect an RCA/composite cable (the red/white cable) as an input, and on page 44 in the manual for your TV, it allows 3.5mm (headphone jack) connections as an audio output. You'd just need a cable like this to hook the two devices up.

I'm trying to connect a pair of JBL 305 powered monitors and an SVS PB-2000 sub to a simple 3.5mm laptop. I've tried researching on my own but I have no idea how the RCA inputs are supposed to connect together.

I imagine I would connect these to connect the speakers to the sub, and then these to go from the sub to my laptop?

The SVS PB-2000 has both RCA ins and outs, so this should be possible, correct?

Test this, If you can plug in some old iphone earbuds that have the microphone and the mic/headphones work with the Apple Lightning to 3.5mm adapter just get this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522215139&sr=1-8&keywords=3.5mm+to+headphone+mic

If not, buy something like this with the adapter linked above:

https://www.amazon.com/Houbox-Lightning-Headphone-Adapter-Charging/dp/B0776PV44V/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522215046&sr=8-5&keywords=lightning+to+microphone+adapter

Then, if you need RCA L and R channels separate, get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522215191&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

Hii everyone!

I am absolutely new to the high end headphone scene and would love it if you help out a noob :)

I recently managed to get on the drop for Sennheiser HD6XX from Massdrop and can't wait for it to arrive!

I'll mostly listen music from my MacBook Pro. I know I need a good amp/dac to get the most out of this pair of headphones.

As such, I just ordered a Schiit Magni 2 as I had a limited budget and could only spend on either a DAC or an AMP.

Now my question is, is there something else I need to purchase to make this a complete setup? And, will the cable in the link work for me to connect the amp to the laptop?

Thank you in advance! :)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Ok can I see the cable tip you have in the front? I think that's a headphone jack, not a composite cable. You can jam those in a composite cable and maybe it'll line up enough to work maybe, but it won't be stereo. You probably need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502760584&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+y+cable
; but if you take a picture of both ends of that green cable, I'll tell you for sure.

Try using the auxilary input, the cable is included as per the listing on Amazon(Speaker). Connect to the audio out behind TV(red,white), the other end to the aux in on the speaker. 3.5 mm cable looks like the headphone jack cable.

Use this cable
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506271544&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+3.5

Or if you have 3.5 mm cable use the one below to convert to RCA

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40424-Stereo-Y-Cable/dp/B001B8QUS6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506271481&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+3.5+female

I understand tri-phase more now, thanks!

I'm using the Smartstim's Midistim design, which I haven't built yet so I'm not sure how it all works. I've read the guide and have a vague understanding. But I'm not sure what you mean by output jack or wiring harness.

If you mean the 3.5mm to 2RCA cable, I think I'll get something like this.

If you mean the resistor + terminal blocks (I assume that's where electrodes are plugged in?) I'll be getting both from Allied Electronics from the p/n listed in the Allied Electronics part list at the bottom.

Here is where I'm getting my parts unless something's wrong with it. I'm listing all in case you meant something else or want to take a look at the specs.

Both these from Amazon: Amplifier and PSU

These 5 from Allied: Resistor, Transformer, Terminal Block, BLK Patch Cord, RED Patch Cord

The rest like plate and cable ties, I'll have to find in a store (I'm not familiar with any diy but I'll get it eventually).

I also read your reply in that other thread about the quality of transformers. It seems the Allied one is the same as the Zoro one in the smartstim downloaded parts list. The quality should be good then as long as nothing goes wrong.

edit: I need to find a new source for the 1 or 2 terminal blocks, Allied require a minimum of 100... I heard the terminal blocks don't need to be exact so I can get away with a variation. I found this terminal block and it might work.

I guess it's technically a converter and not a splitter.

It changes the audio from digital (from the console) to analog (for the vest).

EDIT: You may need one. It doesn't need to be that one. Any digital to analog audio converter should work. I'm not 100% sure but I am trying to figure that out for you real quick.

https://www.amazon.com/EAKAI-Digital-Optical-Converter-Licensed/dp/B01H4XC3DC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505351717&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter&psc=1

There's one for under $15 on Amazon. There are plenty more available for the 15-20 range.

EDIT 2: It looks like you will need one as the vest says it needs a 3.5mm input. I don't see where it includes the required cable even if you buy the vest bundle from them. You'd need to pair this converter with an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505351978&sr=1-1&keywords=male+rca+to+male+3.5mm

So how do you connect the rca? Well there are just normal audio jack cables that split in two and then just a matter of adding 6,3 jacks to that. For example [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019D048XC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523644953&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&psc=1) to this and then 6,3mm jacks to the monitors.

I believe you can use a 3.5mm to RCA cable and plug the 3.5mm side into the line out on the Fulla (second from the left here) and run the RCA to the back of the magni

I see. I'd really like to use the balanced cords in the configuration, because I plan to leave the speakers on and don't want to deal with interference while there isn't music playing. This is the cord that I'm using for the sub. How do you transfer unbalanced stereo to balanced L/R only signal?

It has a 3.5mm line in jack, so you'd need a cable like this

I think you need this? SmartEra 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0oToDb8XAESVF

Or something like it. Seems like a strange setup.

You could just plug the microphone into the splitter cable, assuming you have a 2x TRS (red plug and green plug) headset as opposed to TRRS (one plug for both). You shouldn't need a resistor for that.

If you have a TRRS headphone (as are increasingly common these days) you can still pull it off with a TRRS to TRS adapter.

Does your headset have a TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve, 3 rings) cable or individual mic (red) and headphone (green) cables? If you have TRRS, it may not work and you will have to use an adapter like this.

are you talking about something like this? I only ask because it is strange to me that I am having this issue, I did not know about the different 'poles'. thank you.

Like this?

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=314600398085783127&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004214&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

Does your headphone/mic have four separations on a single plug? If so, you'll need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15985995701149216869&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027645&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

Amazon

You're going to end up with a mess of adapters but it's possible:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht

​

Each of these will need a male - female adapter.

​

Might just be easier to use a seperate mic into your phone. The mic built-into the free headphones that came with your phone will probably be a similar quality to your gaming headset's. Just clip that need your collar and don't bother using the headphones themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12193569697757054016&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015334&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

I got a message my other comment was deleted, so let me try again.

Gotcha. There is this one that separates the mic and headphones. And here is another with Prime shipping.

You'll need somthing like this: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520961870&sr=8-7&keywords=headphone+mic+cable

as long as Mic/Headphones are two separate jacks

It's a little cable, so that a 2-in-1 headset of any sort can work on a computer with two separate jacks for headphones and microphones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S5158892/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01ABRS00S&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o17&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3286923618146086149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023626&hvtargid=pla-319814649008

(This, but a different brand)

>Question is, how do I hook the Blue Yeti up to the One S (more specifically, via the controller)? There's a lot of videos of how to do so through the original One, but that controller is different from the S' controller.

I'm not sure what videos your watching but the only difference would be the need for the headset adapter on the older controllers. That's not needed on those controllers with the built in port. They are identical otherwise.

>There's a way to connect them so that I can both listen to in-game audio via headphones and also speak at the same time, right? If so, how? Any extra cables I might need?

Yes, you'll need a mic/headset splitter to ensure that the rings are mapped correctly to what's expected in the controller. For example, this one which claims to work with the console -

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_day0_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0T6PSF&pd_rd_r=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z&pd_rd_w=cg4lW&pd_rd_wg=A5xwE&psc=1&refRID=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z

Could you please give me more information on, why should I use exactly this one and not ones like this or this

It just looks really bulky.

Ty

just use an adapter dude

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4773AD8JSHCEJZA9Y85B

https://www.amazon.com/Interesting-Adapter-Converter-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B01MG7L2K3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484452834&sr=8-2&keywords=omtp++ctia+adapter

It highly depends. If the laptop supports a 4 pole 3.5mm jack, which supports mic and headphones on one line like some phones, (the 3.5mm jack with 3 rings rather than two) then you can get adapters specifically for that such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZFJAETDEWF87EPDPD5R

However, if the headphone jack only supports a 3 pole 3.5mm jack (standard for stereo headphones) then plugging in an adapter like this won't do a thing.

EDIT:
HOWEVER, a standard 3 pole to two 3 pole type of splitter WILL NOT WORK. Only thing that'll happen is you'll wind up blowing out the microphone's diaphragm as it tries to function as a speaker, which it's not designed to handle.

im trying to stream with my n3ds but this issue doesnt let me use my headphones while doing so and it only lets me have the 3ds bgm or my voice, never both, which is kinda bothersome since my current laptop only has 1 audio jack.

here's the link to the y splitter: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519303145&sr=1-6&keywords=y+splitter

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519367635&sr=8-3&keywords=trrs+splitter

would something like this help? I use a TRRS splitter to put my mic into the controller, and record out the game chat.

Here is the exact cable I have used before in the past. You want to make sure your gain stages are set correctly; Because the mic inputs on phones and tablets are pretty hot, and are designed to add gain passive mics. You'll more than likely have to turn the volume down going in to make sure your not clipping it..

You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OUJWAb2EM4HFD
To be the long term solution. In a pinch if you have two headphone sets you can use and have one be your mic and the other be your dedicated headphones that should work as well.

So basically, you want audio from PS4 and PC? If your headset is like mine, buy a Y-splitter.

From there, use an external amplifier/soundcard like the Astro Mixamp Pro.
You connect the optical cable to the back of the PS4 for game audio, then using the Y-splitter connect your headset into the mixamp, then use a 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable and plug that into MP3 port of the amp and your audio port on the PC. NOTE - Whichever source you plug the USB to power the Mixamp, will be where your mic is assigned to.

TLDR; Headset and Y-splitter go into an amp, optical cord goes into PS4 for audio, USB goes into PS4 for microphone, 3.5-3.5 stereo cable goes into mixamp and audio port for PC/laptop. This is my current set-up and it works beautifully.

I think it deleted my comment:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G230-Stereo-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00BFOEY4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495915610&sr=8-1&keywords=g230

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-VOID-USB-Headset/dp/B013GMXA2I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495915698&sr=8-2&keywords=void+headset

If you get the first one you will need a splitter, I use one and it works fine. The second one is usb so it'll be fine.

here's a splitter https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0T6PSF&pd_rd_r=2HFS2J5XDCQ8XPAYPKNX&pd_rd_w=Gw2CJ&pd_rd_wg=pQfwu&psc=1&refRID=2HFS2J5XDCQ8XPAYPKNX

You likely need a Mic 'Y' adapter for 3.5mm combo ports, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498058543&sr=1-6&keywords=mic+y+adapter (just linked for reference, not endorsing)

Okay so I've got a solution for you.

https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-Over-ear-Gaming-Headphone-Headset/dp/B00Z924M58

My girlfriend got me this headset about 2-3 years ago for my birthday, and it's still in perfect working order.

I DID have to buy a cheap little audio/mic converter dealy so that it would connect to my DS4. I think it was like $10-$15 at my local Best Buy. BUT if you find a similar converter on amazon and bundle the two together I'm sure you'd get free shipping and it'd be around 40-50 dollars EDIT: I am bad at math and it actually would come out to around $30, check the links I posted!

These are meant for PC so to me they feel like high end headphones, sound quality is great and the mic is very clear and has pretty good noise cancellation. I have my mic set to a little above normal and people still really can't hear any noises in my room other than me.

But you said yours don't fit over your Psvr, these ones adjust and fit VERY comfortably. I have a pretty large head, too. Plus, they match the colors of the PS4/Psvr!

I hope this helps! I can update with some pictures if you'd like, too!

Edit: I found a cable adapter that even matches the headsets cord pattern! There's another one that's all black if you don't like the pink/teal default jack colors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2/153-3904418-5173344?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9BBC6Q12TQQMD0V7V7J1

So with the headset and this adapter, it comes out to around 30 bucks. And I can attest to the quality. They are amazing headphones!

I've gone through 3 of those since I've owned the headset. It's pretty annoying because I've never had any indication my splitter was going out either. Just playing games one day, set the headset down when I'm done, and whenever I pick it up again I'll either have no game sound or my mic wont work. These are the best ones I've found. They have lasted me about 7-8 months now with no issues

good to hear, I know lenovo's keyboards can be a bit strange, control key sometimes isnt bottom right, fn there instead on some models. As for mic input jack, they use a TRRS (mic and headphone combo) 3.5mm jack on it, you can buy a small cable adapter that puts a 3.5mm TRS mic in and a 3.5mm TRS stereo out into on single TRRS 3.5mm jack, something like this tps://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF

Oh I'm so sorry, I forgot about that.

Get two of these splitters.

Now use the F2F and M2M couplers and wires to split the headphone mic and connect it to a splitter that connect to the phone.

There, you have a bunch of wires, but it's cheaper then the other solutions.

Better yet, use this splitter on the headphone end and the former splitter on the phone end.

Total cost for my setup is $27, could be less depending on how you mix and match the wires.

Now, solved.

Hey my apologize,

What I mean is, I want to use something like THIS essentially, so one end will go to the headunit that is already in my car acting as an AMP and the other end, I'll simply plug in a cheap microphone for simple Google Now commands.

Whilst at the same time, have an OTG cable plugged in for power and plugging in USB devices.

Is this something that is possible or do I have to output sound through USB into a DAC and then output DAC to headunit?

Sorry if I'm still being confusing, I can draw a diagram on MS Paint if need be.

No info at this time. I personally doubt it will, but a splitter is cheap. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF

What you'll need to do is use a splitter designed to isolate speaker and microphone inputs. Check to make sure that the single end has 4 metal bands on the connector. Something like this will work. Then plug your PS Vita's output into the microphone input on the splitter. Be advised though, that microphone inputs are mono, so you only get a single channel (the Right channel to be specific).

You might be able to use something like this to further combine your stereo input from your Vita to a mono microphone input, but I'm not really sure if that will work. All the reviews seem to focus on using it the other way, as in mono audio output to stereo speakers.

Your iPhone should record the mono audio source as a "stereo" recording, i.e. the same track is recorded on both tracks. If not, you can copy the mono track to the other channel in an editing program.

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oVhYCb1987SBN

I wonder if the TRRS adapter I bought is just faulty because this one is not working.

I'll probably play with the OBS software mentioned by other people.

so that sounds really awful. I was looking at your headset attachments and i see what you mean. I have a similar head set and I mean it sucks to have to buy additional components but you could buy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0T6PSF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then use that Y splitter to go between your control box and ps4 controller. (It is what I had to do but because my old Y broke)

I haven't ever tried it, but wouldn't one of these female audio jacks essentially work in reverse?

Connect a male-to-male audio cable from the RPi3 audio jack to the female audio jack, then connect the speaker wires to one channel (either L or R) and ground of the female jack. And then use the Pi's volume controls to amplify.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but potentially the cheapest and easiest to implement (no soldering, etc). Of course, I love low-rent solutions :)

I had this issue for my nephew, who couldn’t have his headset connected while docked.

I don’t know of a wireless option, but we simply added more cord, and went full into the wired option.

https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-inline-audio-control-attenuator/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518954318&sr=1-1&keywords=passive+volume+knob

Just need a couple RCA to 3.5 cables.

Voice Recorder-http://www.amazon.com/Olympus-V404130BU000-VN-7200-Digital-Recorder/dp/B005756GYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406061606&sr=8-2&keywords=voice+recorder
Audio Splitter-http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406061626&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+splitter
Auxiliary Cable-http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1406061656&sr=1&keywords=auxiliary+cable
Use your own headphones(your phone should still use itself to capture your audio). Record all phone calls. Take Screenshots. If you're on Android- Hold Power+VolumeDown.

This is the 3.5mm cord I bought, this will do you no good though if the side port for the x12 is 2.5mm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=ox_ya_os_product

The 3.5mm optical cable cable is digital-only. It can't convert a digital signal to an analog one. The combination port also carries an analog signal for a 3.5mm miniplug stereo TRS or miniplug stereo + mic TRRS, but those are capabilities of the port hardware, not the cable.

Edit: I reread the question, and I get that you're looking for the jack hardware. No idea about that, sorry.

You want something like This. That would get plugged into the "line in" input in your picture

Edit: Just kidding, don't do this.