Reddit reviews BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz.
We found 24 Reddit comments about BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Boeshield is great for use in marine, bicycles, automotive, tools, RV's, and aviationLoosens rusty and corroded parts and is safe on paints, any metal surfaces, plastics, and vinylFlushes out dirt and old lubricants, displaces moisture, and penetrates moving partsDries to a thin, waxy film that clings to metal for monthsDeveloped by the Boeing company for lubrication and protection of aircraft componentsCall or email us with any questions or concerns
Boe-shield is the industry standard for inside a steel frame
Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.
In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.
As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.
I've used paste wax and GlideCote, both are susceptible to occasional rust. I may try T9 at some point. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
I think for a hand plane, a simple solution would be to store it wrapped up in a cotton cloth. If the only time it was out in the open is when it's being used, that might have a serious impact on oxidation.
> WD-40 is not a lubricant.
So many people don't understand this.
I've been using Boesheild T9 for years after a friend recommended it. He races bicycles and this is what many riders use on their chains. The waxy finish doesn't get flung off like wet lubricants and it doesn't attract dirt.
For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.
I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.
I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.
If you don't feel like taking the time to spray paint them, I'd say go with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001447PEK
It sprays wet like wd-40, but dries to a thin waxy film that last months.
These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!
Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
WD40 is good at removing rust, not so good at preventing it.
You would want something like this https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.
I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:
Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU
As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD
As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371
For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.
Clean the tarnish off, then put something like Boeshield on it. Just slather it in the stuff, it dries to a sort of waxy coating. It's also amazing at keeping things from rusting, so even if it fails with the tarnish it's still really useful. I've used it to great success on galvanized rings to slow down the oxidizing of the zinc. It may help slow the tarnish a lot. The slouch in the middle might be more from the different weight of the rings, than a slight size difference.
Also, you bastard beatting me to it. I'll just go ahead and make an aluminum scale haubergeon for now. Cause if I say I'm going to make a bee next you'll probably beat me to that as well. :P
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9
Yeah, I didn't think so, re: WD-40.
Anti-seize will probably help on the threads, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can coat on wheel bolt that'll actually stay put when exposed to the road, and offer protection without interfering with the threads. I have some Boeshield T-9...my mechanic recommended it for keeping my coilover threads from getting gummed up, so I'm thinking this will work.
boeshield T-9
Frame Saver is fine, but sort of a waste of money. Boesheild T-9 works better, comes in larger bottles, and is cheaper by volume. It also has more applications than Frame Saver, so there's added value there, too.
Best way to check it is to just spin the cassette with your hand. Does anything feel crunchy? Is it smooth? Is there any (significant) play or looseness?
Unless you notice anything wrong you're pretty much good to go. If you thinking the bearings need some lube you could spray a bit of T-9 in the hub-no disassembly required.
Tbh shimano hubs are pretty bad imo and if the freehub (or any other part of the hub) is starting to fail on you it would be prudent to just go ahead and replace the whole hub. Possibly the whole wheel as that would likely be cheaper, especially if you go used. Deore hubs are very low end and they have terrible terrible loose ball bearings. Not even worth fixing most of the time.
I actually like the way aluminium goes when it dulls down. This also, conveniently doesn't need maintenance.. However a guy here:
http://www.finishing.com/3600-3799/3674.shtml
recommends this stuff (Boeshield T-9):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK/ref=nosim?tag=finishingcominc
to keep the shine, disses on Carnauba wax.
Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.
The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.
I use Boeshield T-9 to protect my woodworking tools from rusting. Its a bit expensive but it lasts a long time. I reapply it once a year. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
Boeshield T9 spray
We used this on everything in the cabinet shop. Spray on, let it dry a few minutes then wipe it off. Table saw tops, miter saw slides, blades, plane soles, chisels, everything. I had used white lithium before but it honestly don't hold a candle to T9. Kinda expensive but a can will listi you a couple years.
https://smile.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boeshield+t9&qid=1562926091&s=gateway&sprefix=boes&sr=8-3
I think a better choice would be Boeshield T9.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B001447PEK/