Best automotive hose clamps according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F5JM0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521255244&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=otc+hose+clamp+pliers

This is much better. My favorite tool.

You can use a hose clamp like this to attach bottle cages wherever they fit. Use a couple of layers of cut pieces of inner tube to protect the frame and stop slippage. It's very cheap and works well, just make sure to check what size you need.

Or you could get a framebag and chuck a camelback bladder/bottle in it.

I wouldn't want to run a waterbottle on the back of the saddle, just seems like it would get annoying and possibly rattle out. I'd only carry anything on the forks if the front triangle of the bike was already occupied - you want as much of the weight as closer to possible to the centre of gravity.

There is a tool out there that grabs the tabs and can open up the clamp, handy as hell for the spring clamps and no chance of stabbing your hand.OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u.iwybNKCBDGN

I've never had great luck with O clamps. They always seem to leak eventually regardless of how tight you put them on. I switched over to smooth worm gear clamps ages ago, and I'll never go back. I don't remember where I got mine, but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-Smooth-Metric-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YE6O

Edit: clarification.

FYI, you're using the wrong type of hose clamps. What you want are "fuel injection hose clamps". They have no ridges which cut into the hoses, and greatly reduce the risk of damaging the lines which can cause leaks.

do yourself a favor and get a nice pair of flexible hose clamp pliers

Barring that, even just regular hose clamp pliers are miles ahead of using whatever random pliers are laying in your toolbox.

Well its like $7.50. Exactly, it costs more cause you need the special key. Cant be undone with a flathead or socket. A little extra piece of mind if you will. Key Clamps

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O

That's an inexpensive one. I've got it for personal use and it's pretty solid.

You are living in the pinball techs dream world! Off the route and into a nice office space for full tear down work. You live in the Pacific NW by any chance?

Do you have a tool that you use that wouldn't normally be seen as a pinball repair tool? I have found that a set of automotive hose removal pieces are incredibly useful in more ways than I could even describe. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Hook-Pick-5-Piece-Set/dp/B071JVYFD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543433191&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hose+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=41adxK8G6GL&ref=plSrch

Fuel injection line clamps, my friend...

Here are some that I ordered from:

JST Performance - Cobb Accessport, Custom Tune, Turbosmart blow off valve, NGK 1 step colder spark plugs

James Barone Racing - Weighted short shift plate, Aluminum shift cable bracket bushings, Symposer delete, Green Air Filter (because they sell the gray one)

Depo Racing - 3.5" intercooler, catless downpipe, intercooler pipe kit

Boomba Racing - shifter base bushings, short shift lever

Tire Rack, Discount Tire Direct - wheels and tires. Both offer great deals but I go with Tire Rack because they include an amazing road hazard warranty for free with every tire you buy.

Tasca Parts - OEM Ford parts. Some good options: RS airbox lid, RS Shifter, RS engine cover, RS intake pipes

Amazon - ZL1 Rock Guards (tiny but very effective mud flaps), CravenSpeed stubby antenna, 3D (Mugen) style Window rain visors, Philips H11 Xtreme Vision headlight bulbs (same color as stock but 100% brighter), Stainless T-clamps for your intercooler, Motul Multi DCTF transmission fluid, and TONS of Meguiars car care products.

Walmart - best price for Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic engine oil, often have coupons for it too.

A new tailgate with all the internals (backup camera, latches, etc), the inner composite cover, and painted, is going to run you $1k+, it sucks.

A potential cheap fix once you DO replace it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAXCWO/

you can slip that around the release hinge (passenger side), and keep the turnkey in your center console or something; it's not foolproof but it'll definitely slow down anyone trying to do a grab and run and that's often enough.

If he is like me, he has all the tools he really needs, but would love to have some of the luxury tools most of us do without. These are things that make the job easier, but we don't buy unless we have to.
A few ideas:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6508-Full-Coverage-Master-Disconnect/dp/B000O1E54M/ref=pd_sim_auto_27?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3569-Terminal-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000I16DFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Products-95978-Master-Terminal-Tool/dp/B001BFQ3UY/ref=pd_sim_auto_42?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP40-Automotive-Back-Probe/dp/B000VRJGT8/ref=pd_sim_auto_84?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=pd_sbs_auto_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

Something I always did on any carb engine.

I put an inline filter just before the carb and carried a couple with me. If I needed a replacement it could happen in a matter of minutes and I didn’t have to worry about trash in the carb.

filter example

Hose clamp One of these should fit.

What about something like these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QEDV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.OOnDb2X7CP9H

AN fuel line clamps make for awesome water line separators

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4DF9HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0qI4CbJXJ6AF9

I'm with addsubtract. I use 1/4" on my CB550 as well. I don't use the screw type hose clamps though , I use the spring clip type as seen here. I am sure you can find them just about anywhere in the 1/4" variety if that is what you went for.

Do you recommend this one? https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-X-Large-140mm-Hose-Clamp/dp/B006T2SONI

These are the clamps I used. 2.75"was slightly too big, so drop it down to 2.5"

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058W7X0A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the nuts to use. You only need two, and a four pack only costs $.69 at lowes.

https://smile.amazon.com/M6x1-0mm-Stainless-Steel-Nylock-Insert/dp/B016B26S6U/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502800236&sr=1-6&keywords=m6x1.0+bolt

the high wastegate map is for the stock wastegate and turbo. it is for situations like yours where boost is less than desired - every car is different and requires different parameters.

Give it a shot and see what happens, but also take some datalogs and pay attention to what your TDBoostError pid is reading Throughout the powerband, any more than 1 i would be concerned with a boost leak somewhere (its most likely the coupler that connects the intercooler to the throttle body) If it is i would just replace it with the mishimoto version ( i used their t-bolt clamps as well)

Amazon links because of your other post

http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMHOSE-SUB-ITBBL-Blue-Throttle-Body/dp/B00U2C3UDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462490957&sr=8-1&keywords=mishimoto+throttle+body+hose+wrx


http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMCLAMP-3-3-0-T-Bolt-Clamp/dp/B004MEA4H4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I will say that on my particular car even after i fixed the boost leak i still was not hitting target boost. I eventually got a e-tune from eric at torqued performance and it fixed it.

Screw down hose clamps are prone to cold flow leaks, replace that clamp with a constant tension type.

https://www.amazon.com/Constant-Tension-Band-Hose-Clamps/dp/B0040CYVSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541460319&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=constant+tension+hose+clamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41dbHFQbDqL&ref=plSrch

I think it is these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CWZR0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_3?refRID=16TJRVKKN57EE8FS0PAB

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I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Consider one of these, they do better for small hoses https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-FI6/dp/B0040CU0HM

It's definitely leaking right at the connection?

Lisle 44480

If you could reverse the jaws on this I think it would work well.

> (you'd have to hold the pedal AND the switch on the drill)

I thought somebody who'd ask that question would already know you hold down the trigger with a worm gear hose clamp, so I didn't mention it. Since, apparently, that isn't obvious: go to you local hardware store and buy a worm gear hose clamp of the proper diameter to clamp down the trigger on your drill before hooking it up to a foot switch.


>What I'm looking for is something that would allow you to vary the speed via the foot pedal.

Well, fine. Here you go. You're on your own determining if this is the proper control for your particular device: https://www.widgetsupply.com/product/SDD3-975PS.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoLfHBRD_jLW93remyAQSJABIygGpXMeSAGXv7Cqra5OGNn1JbfCLv1LYznkEG-Q7aNLSsBoCjcPw_wcB