Best automotive replacement spark plug wires according to redditors

We found 19 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement spark plug wires. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Subcategories:

Automotive looms & accessories
Automotive spark plug wires
Automotive spark plug wire sets

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Spark Plug Wires:

u/cycobiz · 3 pointsr/Trucks

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

u/dondelelcaro · 3 pointsr/aww

> What do you do if you have a shitload of cords everywhere?

Split loom is what we use. [We have a cat that thinks that USB-sized cables are the most tasty thing ever.] It's cheap and with an insertion tool it's easy to put wires inside. You can get it in lots of sizes too, in case you need to bundle many cables together.

u/Timbo1986 · 3 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!

Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.


Fluids

  • The 4.0 seems to love Shell Rotella 10W30 - either T (Conventional) or T6 (synthetic) its up to you and use a quality filter - Wix, NAPA Gold, Mopar, or Motorcraft FL-1A
  • Drop transmission pan and change fluid and filter - ATF +4 only No additives or anything else. Adjust the bands and TV cable (link below for TV adj.)
  • Drain and fill the transfer case - Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) and Command-Trac (NP231) get ATF +4 also. Quardra-drive (NP249) gets a special Mopar fluid
  • Drain and fill both differentials - if you tow 75W140 full synthetic in rear 75W90 in front, otherwise 75W90 in both
  • Drain and fill coolant. Zerex-G05 is now the OEM coolant, but you'll be fine with the old school green fluid. Also a good time to look over the condition of the rest of your cooling system. If you're running below 210 you're going to want to put a 195 thermostat in - running to cold causes tons of problems
  • Siphon out your power steering fluid - either through the high pressure hose, or with a turkey baister. Use only Chrysler approved fluid not ATF. You'll need to burp the system after by turning your wheels lock to lock several times and topping of the fluid
  • Bleed your brakes! These brake lines are prone to rust already, and brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and they will rust from the inside out. spray the bleeder screws with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a few days before you get started to free them up - Check your pads, shoes, drums, and rotors too!


    Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0

  • Champion copper spark plugs


  • Denso wires


  • Accel distributor cap with brass contacts


  • Accel Brass rotor


  • Accel Ignition coil


  • Bosch air filter any paper filter is fine though


  • gates belt


  • Clean the throttle body and IAC


  • Adjust the Transmission Throttle Valve Makes a big differnce in shifting


  • Clean the Grounds - #1 in the "Dirty Dozen" list below



    If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen

    Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
u/eightdrunkengods · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I just made spark plug leads for my Aprilia. I bought an Accel kit for V8 motors. This gave me a whole lot of extra parts (the Aprilia has 4 spark plugs) so I could afford to screw up once or twice.

The most important thing is getting the crimping right.

Not sure what the ignition is like on that bike. If it's electronic, make sure you get suppressed leads (like the ones linked above). If not, you can get metal core or whatever but maybe you'll need resistor caps.

u/xnoom · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Hmm, I don't know of any for the BrewPi/PowerSwitch connection specifically. It's pretty straightforward though... each +in/-in on the PowerSwitch connects to one of the connectors on the Spark.

The connecting wires just need to be 18 gauge or so copper wire you might have laying around (speaker wire should work), or something like this if you don't have anything. All you have to do at that point is strip a small amount of the casing from the wire (scissors used carefully will work fine if you don't have wire strippers), and attach it between the two... the Spark connector just needs the wire pushed into it, and the PowerSwitch needs it to be screwed down with a small eyeglass-sized screwdriver.

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

I'm not sure where you landed with this but it really sounds like wires and plugs to me. Low RPM stumble, loss of power, and if you keep the RPMs way up it's a little better? That's likely wires and plugs.

Get four of these plugs and a set of these wires and swap them in. Then report back here.

u/OhShitItsJagerBear · 2 pointsr/Miata

I'm using this set here. https://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS

I originally did a standard set from the auto parts store but was like nope not helping at all. I want to say its the spark plugs but I've gapped them correctly and changed them twice.

u/LOL_Wut_Axel · 2 pointsr/Ford

Yup, those are definitely things I would recommend. The plugs you can do in 5 mins. Ford uses double platinum plugs stock. You can either get the Motorcraft or the Autolite double platinum and they'll work great and are pretty cheap. I bought the Autolite at Advanced for like $15 two years ago and they work great. While you're at it, I'd also recommend you change the plug cables. Denso make the plugs for Ford, so you can get the original part directly through them for cheaper.

http://smile.amazon.com/Denso-671-4061-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000EQB36A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Oil you can use high-mileage or synthetic. I prefer to use synthetic because it's higher quality, protects the engine better and it's either a bit cheaper or the same cost-wise. I change mine every 6K miles and just pick out whatever 5W-30 full synthetic with filter they have at Advanced. It's usually $20 or $25, while conventional high-mileage is $18-21 but that you should change every 4K or so so it's not actually cheaper.

You should definitely change the brake discs. You could buy the original but good quality replacements can also be had like ACDelco or Raybestos.

The water pump... well I'll be honest, mine has the original one. The water pump typically doesn't fail or leak on these. Mine hasn't leaked any coolant at all and the original radiator seems to be holding up fine too. If you wanna replace it as a preventative measure you could and it's easier than most cars because it's not connected to the belt. It's a 1 hour job if you're experienced, around 2 if not.

I would definitely, definitely recommend you do the valve cover gasket and rear dogbone control arm if they haven't been done. Do not use any silicone on the valve cover. Reason why it's important to change is because the rubber breaks and engine oil will start leaking into the plugs, fouling them and if it's bad enough can cause the car to misfire. Change them every 60K or so. That rear control arm is very important too because it has to do with rear tire wear. That control arm is the one that sets the rear camber of the car, and at around 100K miles the rubber breaks and you'll be able to notice because of the rear camber. Tires will last 1/3 of what they should unless you replace it. It has independent rear suspension which is great for handling, but it also causes that.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-521-416-Control-Arm/dp/B004AIS1R2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462747313&vehicle=2001-54-679-49--1-8-5-3458--1-1-747--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2001%3Aford%3Afocus

Any car with that mileage you should check the front and rear shocks. The rear are super easy to do. I followed a video and did it in 10 mins total. The front are a bit tricky so those take around an hour. If you want it to ride like stock use Monroe, if you want a bit sportier/stiffer use KYB.

u/seant117 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

u/bombala · 1 pointr/Miata

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

u/DIYtDCS · 1 pointr/tDCS

Anthony, I got my Iomed PM 700 and I'm about to order the 2" x 2" Amrex sponge electrodes from Amazon. But it doesn't say anything about the connectors. Elsewhere I saw banana plugs mentioned, but these keep coming up alongside the electrodes in Amazon, and that doesn't look like a banana plug. Can you recommend a saline solution? PS if you make a kit list with an affiliate link I'd be happy to purchase through that link.

u/jklemony · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I ended up ordering this. It's probably one of those "cheap Chinese made coils" you warned about but I didn't have much luck finding a bunch of options since it's an older car.

Hopefully it will work good enough! Also bought these wires for good measure.

u/northernspy · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Spectre Performance 29511 Black 1/4" x 10' Split Loom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063021I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_owwwxbPQPYFB0

Put this stuff around cords. Changed my life. My cat won't bite this stuff but even if he did he couldn't reach the cords. Bitter apple didn't work on my cat.

u/TheUnknownD · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wire-Loom-Cable-Insertion/dp/B00OKXP0C6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1507173036&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+loom+tool&linkCode=sl1&tag=caraud03-20&linkId=4cdbaa3912d6599660130d35860cfe93


Get this unless you don't mind doing this for like 30 minutes with a hurt thumb for awhile.

I don't know what you get because there are a few options, IMO I like to take my time manually installing the split loom, I don't need to buy that.

u/Seeker80 · -4 pointsr/cars

> So my question becomes, what is so special about these plug wires?

It looks like that may be the going rate for spark plug wires, at least if you're paying list price. Here are some cheaper ones, but they show the list price being similar to what you were quoted.

If the costs really bother you, maybe you just shouldn't be driving such a high-end vehicle.