Best battery holders according to redditors

Honestly I see no reason to get the GPRO over the G305 at this point.

• the Hero sensor tied with the 3366
  
  
• the G305's a wireless S-M hand mouse!
  
  
• you can get it to sub-90g with a few easy mods (I have some AAA-to-AA converters from my Atheris days)
  
  -the batteries last for months even if you leave it on; no charging ala G903/G703/G403.
  
  
• It's $60 compared to the GPRO's current $43 on Amazon US.
  
  Granted, I would've loved a wireless G303, but I'm really, really impressed by this thing. +A Logitech.
  
  Link for AAA-to-AA converters

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The problem with the Eneloop AA-to-D adapters is they only take 1 AA cell. Better adapters can take up to 3 AA cells:

• AmazonSmile: DSLRKIT 3AA(LR6) to D Size Parallel Battery Convertor Adapter Holder (pack of 4): Home Audio & Theater
  
  It's easy to make your own adapters just with rolled-up paper tubes and some tape. If your device has a little extra space, it's even possible to pack 4 AA cells in the space of 1 D cell.

I think the aluminum foil trick is more for emergencies, for permanent size changes you could use a converter https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

I would say yes.

My hands are the same size as yours, my main mouse used to be a G203 which has a very similar shape to the G305.

Use AAA Lithium Batter With this to reduce the weight of the mouse.

so basically, g305 takes AA batteries which are quite heavy, however you can use a AAA battery which is a lot lighter and smaller but it doesn't fit within the battery compartment, a lot of people use adapters like this one but that adds its own weight, so you can just make a ball of tin foil to put inside to bridge the connection which weighs next to nothing.

It's a battery adapter. Specifically you put one of these batteries inside of one of these things and you can save yourself a hand full of grams in weight while losing out on 2/3'rds of the battery life a standard sized battery would net you. It's one of those pro/con pick your poison situations.

Eesh! Strongly suggest you install one of these instead.

Its nowhere near professionally done, but it works well for me. Both my goggles and glasses inside were fog free last weekend when I played. This was way cheaper than buying one of the goggle fan kits out there that kinda sorta work for only one kind of goggle. As long as there's space for a fan the way I did it should work for any brand. As for specifics on the fan and battery compartments, I used these fans and [these battery boxes](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4L76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
). Again, as long as the fans are small enough to sit on the side/somewhere on the goggles then it doesn't matter what brand of fans you use. Hope this helps some of yall.

Buy a 30 rpm gear motor. Something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-30RPM-DC-Electric-Gear-Motor-Gearmotors-High-Torque-for-Toys-/331891809816?hash=item4d464b1e18:g:I4MAAOSwmtJXb~Qq
would work. Add a shaft adapter like https://www.pololu.com/product/1078 to mount the spinning part. Add a 6 volt battery holder with switch like https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00HR93NJM

I got one from a target that brickseek specifically said was out of stock. They had a few and they didn't have any kind of indication that it was marked down I just asked the employee to price check it and it came up at $34.98. So I would just call around to targets and ask if they have it.

EDIT: Here is a video from Linus Tech Tips about the g305. Getting a AA to AAA adapter and using a AAA battery helps the weight distribution dramatically.

Ok, you have about ~3.5 liters of internal volume to work with. It's pretty tight for any more surface area than a 3" driver or equivalent. I'm going to assume that you're okay with a ported box over a sealed box since you'll get a lot more sound out of the small form factor.

Drive-wise, there are 3 easy options:

• 1x full range 3" like the AuraSound NS3-193-8A which would go into the box with a 1" diameter port (or any shape of equivalent cross sectional surface area), 6" long, which would tune the box to about 50 Hz. This design gets you the most dB's for the least $$, as far as I can tell. The port will add the low-end where you want it for music. If you want to go completely sealed, you lose an octave of bass.
  
  
• 2x 2" speakers like the Dayton ND-65-4 with a port tuned to 70 Hz, which would be a 1.25" port 5.5" long. This option is simpler in terms of bluetooth amps.
  
  
• 2x pre-built speaker module such as the Tang Band T2-2181SA (pricey, but simple)
  
  
  Then you'll need a 2x50W class D amp with bluetooth pre-attached. There are tons of these all over amazon; my favorite chipset is the TDA7492 or the TPA3116D2. Wondom, Dayton, Drok, Sure Electronics all make decent versions.
  
  For power source, if you want batteries that's a bit of an added cost, otherwise, you just need a 24V power supply rated in the vicinity of the nominal output power of the amps (75W will be more than enough). Otherwise you'll need a 24V battery pack, which you can make out of 6x 18650 cells (I linked some expensive ones because there are a lot of fakes on Amazon, there are cheaper "protected 18650" cells out there) and wire them in series with 18650 battery holders and you'll need a 6S li-ion charger. You can always opt for a 12V system for simplicity; you'll need the same bits but just 3-Series instead of 6.
  
  If you want a cool switch, there are a billion options
  
  The speakers range from be $15-$60, and power supply (battery or wired) will be an extra $20-$60 depending on what options you choose, making it $65- $150 (with the amps) in total, for the outlined options. And that's about all you really need.
  
  If you want to get fancy, you can add some inductors to high-pass filter the amplifier output in order to prevent the speakers from bottoming out, but that has to be calculated on a case-by-case basis. Let me know if any questions.
  
  Edited for clarity

Use a AAA Lithium battery!

Also I would always prefer this:

https://www.amazon.com/WAYLLSHINE-Converter-Adaptor-Batteries-included/dp/B0153KYBNI/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526562320&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=aaa+converter&psc=1

Then cut the top and the bottom to safe some more grams

https://imgur.com/a/ktdxVme

or use foil

Funnily enough, I learned not too long ago they also make adapters...

Hey, thanks! Sorry for the late reply, didn't expect this post to get much attention. Lol.

Here are the steps I took (in order):

• Sketch your build or design. Get a general idea of how you want the sides, front, back, and endcap to look. And where you want the electronics to go. That includes the button, battery, and LED placement.
  
  
• Make sure that the parts you order FIT inside your main body PVC. The Custom Saber Shop has this for the LED that will fit nicely inside my main body. I'll post my entire order from TCSS below this comment as a reply. And decide how you want to power your build (AA, AAA, or a Li-Ion battery). For ease, put the batteries at the end cap.
  
  
• Decide how big you want the body and the shroud (outer PVC) to be. I used 1'' PVC as the body and 1-1/4'' PVC for the shroud. Both are the white SCH-40 PVC. You can include other materials for your build if you choose to do so. I didn't include anything else but PVC for my hilt.
  
  
• Go to your local ACE or Home Depot to select PVC's that will most resemble or help craft your hilt. Pick whatever screws you want for the attaching of the shroud to the body just as long as the length of the screws are within boundaries of the smallest PVC diameter. But get a screw with a big enough diameter to press your lightsaber blade firmly against the hilt. Get a screw or two that will press the LED module to stay in place. I winded up going to ACE for screws and HD for the PVC. And you might as well pick out the spray paint if you choose.
  
  
• Get some craft paper (any really as long it doesn't have holes in them) and wrap one around the larger PVC and make sure to tape it. Now that you have that cylinder paper, press it smoothly to make it flat. Copy your design on just one half of the paper and cut with scissors. Include the placement for the screws, I forgot to do so in my build. Do so and you will get results like this.
  
  
• Over the actual PVC in which you'll be making the design, trace your craft paper on it with a sharpie. Make sure your craft paper fits nicely with the diameter of PVC for ease of tracing.
  
  
• Once you have all traces laid out then you can begin cutting the PVC with a Dremel / rotary tool (they're the same thing). For some cuts, it might be easier to use a hacksaw. Pre-drill holes for the screws. Make sure your drill bit is exactly the same diameter as the screw. The same thing goes for the button(s). If the button still doesn't fit sand it a bit with the Dremel.
  
  NOTE: If your battery pack does not fit inside your PVC main body sand around the PVC from the inside in a circular motion (move upward if you have to) until the battery pack fits. I used three AAA for mine. I bought this battery pack from Amazon. They fit nicely after some sanding in my PVC. Make sure there is still some friction so the battery packs don't go swinging up and down.
  
  
• After cleaning the dust off, you may apply the spray paint to each piece. Use some filler primer spray paint to hide any cuts or imperfections on your PVC designs before applying the main colors. Let it dry completely. Once it's dry completely you can add some weathering.
  
  
• For installing the electronics see this video. If you want a switch that lights up, see this video and/or this video. Rob is really great at explaining the steps for beginners. Since I already have experience with electronics I could skip these steps for this project. I will note that you could use an Arduino Nano to program the AV momentary switch and the LED if you have one around but does require some programming skills (the coding isn't long). If you still want to use the M-to-L converter, use my sketch to help you out. Edit: #7 & #8 are just the for the remaining wires on the button. It doesn't matter where either wire goes here. They are just for the buttons inputs.
  
  NOTE: Keep a track of wire management. Too much wire can cause electronics to push against one another too much. I fell into this problem. 24 AWG to 22 AWG will do fine. And USE heat shrink as Rob advises, it will make a difference as time goes on.
  
  
• And once it's all said and done, enjoy!
  
  WARNING: Wear a breathing mask to avoid PVC dust in your lungs and wear goggles! And make sure to not breathe in any fumes from the PVC because the Dremel will heat it up you do not let the PVC cooldown in between cuts or if you sand for too long. For the best protection do this outside if you can and shower afterward.

Something like this might work, although you will probably need to do a little jerry-rigging with double sided tape and/or velcro to get it to stay in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR93NJM/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1

The AAA size might fit better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8S38HE/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1

3S 18650 Battery holder

Balanced charger for above

Note that the charger board has 4 connections to the batteries and 2 more for the 12V in/out (6 total). Like this.

You'll want a 12.6 v supply for this (not 12v - 12V isn't enough to charge this)

You can tie the charger, battery pack and heater coil all together. Make the charger so it unplugs (obviously). When you have the charger plugged in, it'll charge + give a boost to the heater. Unplugged, the heater will run on the batteries.

This battery configuration will only put out about 2-3 amps (I forget), so heating is a little slower than the 6 amps the heater really wants. The difference is like 15 vs 18 seconds.

For some good glass tubes (for inside the coil), search eBay for "Cloupor Cloutank M3 Glass"

The induction heater? Made it. It’s just a $10.49 part off Amazon, a switch, and 3 18650 batteries.

The guy on FC selling that skeletor kit has to be laughing to the bank. He’s quadrupling his money on those things.

edit: Amazon link for heater in case anyone wants to buy one. Just hook your 3 18650 batteries to it with a holder, put a switch in-between, and you're good to go. Those are the exact parts the skeletor kit uses, he's just making it look tidy by soldering things rather than just sticking the wires in the plugs and screwing them tight.

These were the converters I used. There are way more than you obviously need since you only need one, but I have back ups ready in case one ever abruptly dies.

WAYLLSHINE 16 PCS Clear Color AAA to AA/14500 Battery Holder Converter Adaptor-(Batteries are not included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153KYBNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0JhvCbKT0XRWD

This will work pretty well, giving you 6V and 1.8-2.5A depending on the AA's you put in it with a built in switch.

this will work

Switch out the lenses if you suspect they might be dirty.

Alternatively, take them out and clean them in warm water and soap. I fielded dirty goggles for a while and it was a night and day difference to see through them while clean! :)

Cut the foam out of the vents, too, and try running without a helmet on. Keep your balaclava off your nose if you wear one.

You can also get away with cutting out some rubber from the vents themselves to increase airflow. Be careful with how you do it, though, and be mindful that BBs can enter your goggles at this point.

If none of this works, I recommend some home-rigged fans. [Here's a 30mm (1 inch) 12V micro fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/Gdstime-30mm-Small-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00MYNX0ZI) You can get a battery pack with switch that has an output of 12V. [Here's a 8x AA battery pack with a nominal output of 12V; even has an on/off switch built in.] (https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS)

AA batteries typically output 1.5V a piece, so 8 of them in a case provides 12V. The small fan should draw no more than 1A. 8x AA batteries should supply at least 400 mAh a piece, so you'll have a total current of at least 3.2A coming from your load. You could safely power 3 fans, and given how efficiently they run, you could probably do so for quite a while. I'd recommend 2 fans wired in parallel with the battery pack, though you may only need 1 fan to do the job.

If you don't know anything about electricity, I could post a common-sense wiring diagram if needed.

I got a great deal on some HMEC466s on ebay, but they a were more standard 6-pin lemo with built-in battery pack. Looking at the pin-out, you should be able to make your own battery pack or have a socket put in to hook it up to ship power.

pin out is in the manual for those headsets. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/151043/Sennheiser-Noisegard-Hmdc-322.html?page=31#manual

pin 1 is your DC+ (12-35V according to that manual)
pin 2 is ground
pin 3 is No connect



8 AA battery holder: https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK
xlr 3-pin mic extension cable: https://smile.amazon.com/Male-Female-Microphone-Extension-Cable/dp/B006ZQ49UA

could probably cut one end off the mic extension cable, hook it up to the battery pack as the manual indicates. not pretty. not even an on off switch, but might solve it for less than $10

There's a few ways to do it. Amazon sells some battery holders for cheap that run off of AA batteries (8 of them to be exact) so you don't have to be tied to an outlet at all times. There are some sealed rechargeable power adapters (6000mah units) that I'll likely end up using. If you use the AA way you can get rechargeable batteries if that floats your boat.

Cheaper AA adapter

6000mah adapter

There's also a $15 off of $75 through eBay right now (code PSAVE15TODAY). You might find some other adapters or strip light solutions there.

Two Panasonic NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries QTY 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHXY72O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3LGQub1ZPPSXH



With these
2 Pcs Black 18650 Flat Tip Batteries Battery Holder Case w Wire Leads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQKBQBE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_90GQub0CGQFKP

Bluetooth audio receiver - $8.22
5v amp x2 - $2.45
Battery holder x10 - $0.40
Speaker - $6.00
Charging module - $4.70
Misc suguru, wires, solder etc ~ $5?
Edit: forgot battery and charger - $8.63
You can probably get these parts cheaper if you order from one source or in bulk, but you're probably looking at around $30 if you want a one-off.

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

Pick up a G305. Also grab some lithium AAs as they last an insane amount of time and are lighter than normal AAs. I personally use a lithium AAA with half of one of these adapters to make it even lighter but the AA is already a massive decrease in weight.

It's a solid mouse with the same body shape as the Logitech G Pro (not the Pro Wireless, which is a totally different shape) and it's great for small/medium hands. That said I have large hands but claw grip and I love mine.

If you're new to buying mice, wireless and light mice might seem like "nice to haves" but especially for FPS games I feel they're imperative. As soon as it's in your hand and you play a match you'll understand. This is a great site to learn about solid mice and read/watch reviews on ones you'll be recommended like the G305.

Here is the battery pack I used if anyone is interested.
LAMPVPATH (Pack of 3) 2 AAA Battery Holder with Switch, 2 x 1.5V AAA Battery Holder Case with Wire Leads and ON/OFF Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSXDTCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_pbCTDbXRPN8G9

Pi A+ -$23 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00PEX05TO/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new)

monitor - $13.69 (http://www.amazon.com/Rearview-Monitor-Automobile-Support-Resolution/dp/B008BFGDMU/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1425707624&sr=1-1&keywords=backup+LCD+monitor)


RFID scanner - $6.17 (http://www.amazon.com/Contactless-Proximity-Reader-EM4001-Windows/dp/B00M3V438E/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425706532&sr=1-11&keywords=rfid+reader)


Battery box - $5.79 (http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK)


mini USB keyboard - $6.04 (http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-Protective-Leather-Keyboard-Tablet/dp/B008JBPP9I/ref=sr_1_79?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425707892&sr=1-79&keywords=7%22+tablet+usb+keyboard+case)


5V UBEC - $6.87 (http://www.amazon.com/Zjskin-Receiver-Servo-Power-Supply/dp/B00PANR6EK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425708123&sr=1-1&keywords=5V+UBEC)


So ... $61.64, starting from scratch, and not trying all that hard. Probably need $8 Wifi and a $5 USB hub ...


I feel like if you really tried, you could shave $10 off that. If I were me, I'd use a UBEC off my desk, and 3D print a battery box ... but, then, I think I have that entire setup in my parts bin, except the RFID reader, so that's not fair.


Still, yeah, I think for the price of a few lunches out it's doable.

EDIT

You could cut the monitor and keyboard (20$), find a cheaper battery box, and tape it together as a handheld scanner ... you'd just need an indicator LED for when you successfully scanned, and someone would have to connect to your serial port and log in to see if you were caught.


It'd be nice if you could find a reader that cheap that could talk to an arduino ... then you could do a 'dumb' scanner a lot easier.

This, this and this

This mouse is amazing. I upgraded from the G203 to the G305 (same shape, but the G305 is wireless) and it is amazing. I would recommend getting some AA to AAA battery covers to reduce weight, it does help a lot. Or you can just use foil. The only thing this mouse lacks is RGB, but RGB on a mouse isn't too important to me

Link to AA to AAA: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, thanks! There are plenty of better drop photographers out there using computer-controlled droppers. I'm old-school and just used a regular eye-dropper.

Here are the lasers I bought for this project. I soldered them to these battery holders that have a switch built in. The laser will run about a week on two AA batteries. I know because I forgot to turn it off once and came back a week later and it was still going!

It all depends. The battery in these things aren't going to be rechargeable. I would simply remove them. What you want are the charging circuit and the hardware in the pack itself. Once you remove the internal battery you could wire your own and just use 18650 rechargable batteries which are very inexpensive.

In the end it would cost you no more than $20 for a pretty cool DIY project which would help you quite a bit while traveling. You can get a 6 pack of 18650 batteries for $19 and get six of the holders and solder them in series. The batteries are 3000mAh giving you a power bank of 18000mAh for about $40. 18k mAh commercial power packs usually go for ~$60. So you do a cool project and save a few bucks.

Will these do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_snqmDbQ60QACS

He means to use these batteries and these converters.

Normally I'd make the case for rechargeable AA cells but those get very expensive for occasional use electric candles.

so lets say I used a 12V battery power supply, connected to a step down for 12V to 5V, connected to the arduino, should i be fine??
Battery: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522627066&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery+power+supply

Step down: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B01ENT1PPM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522627182&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=12v+to+5v+step+down+converter&psc=1

You don't want to buy the socket for that plug, you want to cut that plug off. You will not find anything off the shelf that this

To create 12 Volts, you need 8 AA batteries in series (one behind the other). This light draws 0.5a, and a AA battery has around 2-3Ah of charge, so 8 batteries should drive this for about 4-6 hours.

This is 8 battery pack

You cut off the car adapter, and connect together red wires and black wires. Must be insulated from each other (simple clear tape would do). Or just bring the parts to the playa, and I'm sure there are 1000's of folks who can help you wire it. Great way to meet new friends!

My first GitD case was battery powered:

https://imgur.com/a/cka0h

This is the battery pack I used to power the case:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEBW7Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ilaK18XPvnn6U

Just because streamers use something, doesn't mean it will be good for you. I'm sure it's a good mouse, but you might not like it.

However, if you are interested in that kind, the G305 is better if you use a chargable lithium battery like this and any AAA to AA adapter, or an aluminum foil ball. Instead of just a regular AA battery. It's the same thing but wireless, and Logitech wireless performs the same as wired, so you don't have to worry about disconnect or latency.

I ordered these and went around on a replacing spree a couple of years ago. I did everything from the old 286 to my Dreamcast.

Yeah, something like a AA battery holder inside the case. The Z-11Pro2 has room inside the case for it and even has solder pads to make it easy. It's described in the manual. I don't know if the AT-100Pro2 would allow for something similar, but it seems to be of similar size and construction to the Z-11Pro2 so it might be worth taking a look at.

Here's a good place to start. How many K'nex do you have? This geared motor should be sufficient. This is a battery case.

Well, you could get some 5050 leds that work on 5 volts and could just plug into a usb battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/AVAWAY-Flexible-Waterproof-Background-Decoration/dp/B073RZ7XMR/

Or, if you want to stick with the LED strip you have, this battery holder and some rechargeable AA's might do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS

"I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who said, "I drank what?"

battery pack!

If I were to do this I'd use this battery holder, this set of batteries (cheap ones are junk, get from reputable source), and this charger. Probably want a switch in-line unless you're fine with taking out the batteries to shut it off. Could also jump up to a set of four batteries but I'd think that's overkill unless you're doing multi-hour rides.

Diymore Double 18650 V8 Lithium Battery Shield Micro USB 5V/3A 3V/1A Power Bank Battery Charging Module for Arduino ESP32 ESP8266 WiFi (18650 2 Holders) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZKNST4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PN31Db9GF24DJ

You use a AAA lithium ion battery and either a piece of aluminum foil or a AA to AAA adapter which will bring it down to 80 grams. Shouldn't be a noticeable different between that and some "shitty" mouse that is apparently one of the lightest out.

Just buy one of these heaters plus a battery holder then add a momentary switch.

edit: If you want to be super cheap you could make a battery pack, skip the holder and switch, and just plug the battery in to the heater. Not that I'd recommend that, but if you want real cheap that's an option.

I'm assuming .5v drop as when I fire the device the battery volt indicator usually drops .4-.5v but I could just be reading it all wrong.

I am using 20g wires like the ones that come with it for load side stuff. Went with some solid core copper stuff I had as well as the wires that came with the chip, so I assumed it would be adequate. The only stuff I used other then that was some 24g but that was for the led button and the switches.

The varitube 510 didn't come with a negative solder point so I might need to check my solder joint as I had a heck of a time getting it to sick to the side of the brass nut.

Edit:

The battery holder is this but I cut off the original wires and soldered on some of the 20g stuff that came with the SX chip. Perhaps the spring and top contact just suck on this holder?

Looks like it uses a 2.1mm barrel plug (but I can’t be sure from that product listing, there’s a chance it’s a less common 2.5mm barrel plug).

If so you can easily use any 12v battery pack with a 2.1mm connector. Here’s one that uses AA batteries.

Alternatively you can use a rechargeable one with a 2.1mm male to male cable.

I'm using these.

They will fit into 5/8" ID tubing with the LED strip, but it's kind of tight. I'm only placing about half of one holder in the 5/8": the rest of the electronics are inside the connector. The full 3/4" would be a lot better if you could go that big.

Sure thing. So first thing I did was go outside and find some Rocks. Probably the hardest part. Had to find one with a flat bottom that I liked. I then make a mold out of it using Silicon Smooth-on stuff.


After I had the mold I built the harness which is just the Flickering LED attached to a CR2032 Holder, a 150 resistor, and a Switch. Ill update the imgur album with pics of the process when im not making50 more of these.

After building the harness I mixed the resin One I used with some dye and poured it in. then I built a little holder to hold the harness just out of the resin and let it dry for 8 hours. Then bam 1 soul stone is made. You should have enough mold to make about 5 molds of different stones pending on size. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have a small PCB style LNA. I have it connected to one of these 9V battery holders. The built-in power switch makes it very convenient to turn on and off. Mine has been going strong for a couple of weeks on the same battery, not nonstop use of course. Also, has been pointed out, tapping 5V from USB would work. Not sure how different voltage affects performance at various frequencies.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4L76/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these little feet to mount the PCB LNA so it's not floating around in the air. I might have a friend 3D print me a nice enclosure for it.


https://www.amazon.com/Dashtop-Mounting-Arcade-Windows-Raspberry/dp/B01HNUSKRY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=S963UM4QHP83&keywords=pcb+feet&qid=1566684515&s=gateway&sprefix=pcb+feet%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

Do you happen to know which terminal/connector are commonly used for batteries? It's not for an SV but for a dirt bike and it's connected to a battery pack

You could connect the LED strip to a battery holder. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPQK3DY

I ended up going with this route: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

I think it is just an easier option for someone like me who shouldn't be digging too deep into a field I know very little on!

In that case, I'd go for something like this. Replace the existing wires with 18 gauge and it should work well. Also get something like this for charging and protection.

Here

This one, 8 AAs

This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/

Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

Absolutely.
CO-RODE 8 x AA 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/OFF Switch w Cover Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_E2Lq75GukclKc
MEILI LED Light Strip SMD 3528 16.4 Ft 5 Meter Waterproof 300 LEDs 12V Flexible Rope Light (No Power Supply), Blue >>[And Green And Red]<< https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDNAM74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_88h2Weq3pqCKv
AspenTek 2835 3528 LED Strip Light Inline ON/OFF Switch DC Power Adapter Connector ,No Need Welding, 3 Packed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H0GR3E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MQf9cblTta6L1
We soldered everything together (we didn't use provided connectors)
Hope this helps!

That is an interesting thought. For my lights that take 3 cells, I was thinking of getting several of these battery holders so that i could run eneloops in parallel and wire them to the lights. In a setup like this, I wonder if it would be worth putting an inline fuse between the packs and the light just for added safety? Or maybe there is a better strategy other than linking together battery holders.

Edit: If I'm wiring in battery holders, I suppose I could also just go with 3 D cells in a holder like this instead of bothering with AAs in parallel.

Edit2: One last crazy option came to mind. I could wire a 3 D cell holder to the lights, and then use 3 of these AA to D cell converters to use my existing Eneloops in parallel.

Energizer Lithium AAA and AAA to AA Converter. You can find cheaper prices than the links provided, these are just the first listings on Amazon.

Something like this - 20 Pcs Button Battery Holder Case Black for CR/LIR2032 2025 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0JS27U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KoIDAbAWD44A2

Cheapest I found on amazon just now with a quick search. Four for a tad under 8 bucks, you can buy larger packs though. https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Battery-Converter-Adaptor-Cylindrical/dp/B00GONWQMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550122890&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=aaa+to+aa+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=3109T1mRKDL&ref=plSrch

[Battery holder for three 18650 batteries] (https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Battery-Storage-Plastic-3x18650/dp/B071ZQ2X2T/ref=sr_1_12/140-5364689-5700410?ie=UTF8&qid=1517732407&sr=8-12&keywords=18650+battery+holder)

As others have said, you can just use 12 volts from almost anywhere.

Easiest would be 8AA batteries in a holder like this. Use rechargeable batteries or this might get expensive.



If you wanted to get fancy you could find bigger and better battery packs. Maybe even a nice lithium ion pack....but that could get expensive and complex.


Reviews on those lights you linked to are pretty harsh. Not sure if they'll have enough light output for what you want to do...but what the hell, give it a try!

Depending on the solenoid it'll probably take more current than a normal 9V battery can provide.

If it doesn't need to be portable, there's plenty of options for cheap 12v power supplies.

If it's going in a car you'll want to just run the wires from the battery.

If for some reason you need it to be portable and don't want to plug it in you're going to need a decent sized battery. If it's a small enough solenoid (i.e. an amp or two max) you could get a battery holder. There's also plenty of 12V RC batteries.

Yeah like using one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Adapter-Converter-Cylindrical-Transparent/dp/B07GQVZ79T

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK?sa-no-redirect=1

You could also use a AAA battery with this. Thats personally what I use and the weight distribution feels very close to the G-pro.

AA

AAA

That do it?

There's ones for coin cells too, but they seem to be all 2x cells, which would be a bit too high voltage.

If you can hack up a connector for inputting to a AA battery bank, then you could put D cells in an external battery box for much longer power.

If you solder something like this: AAA to AA adapter shell with wire leads that go to something like this: D cell box, then you'd be able to use the larger batteries in devices normally too small to fit them.