Best breaker, load center & fuse accessories according to redditors
We found 69 Reddit comments discussing the best breaker, load center & fuse accessories. We ranked the 32 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Plug everything into this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_J12jDbYP3VMZB
That's terrible.
I used a cheap plug in "Electricity Usage Monitor" to measure the actual running cost of my lights/fishtank etc.
(Turns out all my lights cost way less than you would think in power. About a dollar a watt a year assuming 12hr/day use).
It's just lights are big and showy, compared to heating / cooling, that is responsible for most of a homes power usage (For example a hot water system running for an hour uses more power than my light running all day, and my lights are excessive, to put in nicely).
So actually being able to show the real cost (not abstract maths on paper) might really help your case. You could always offer to pay that extra cost, or do some work to the value of that cost.
Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Spartan-Power-SP-PM120/dp/B079JWGS92/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549942672&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mains+power+watt+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=51ocNwJhZYL&ref=plSrch
Edit: formatting for clarity
There is no switch that's rated for 60 amps, the highest rated anti-vandal/push button switches are between 3 - 5 amps. A switch that's rated for 60 amps is a lever on a circuit breaker, here's an example. Take a look here for 60 amp switches, they don't exist. Digikey is one of the biggest part vendors in the world, here let's check Mouser too, sadly doesn't exist from Mouser either. I'd implore you to to take a look at how large the 20 amp switches are, they're as big as your whole box mod. Either he did what the guys over on /r/OpenPV call "wizard math" to make it seem like the switch is rated for 60 amps, or he bought one on eBay or Amazon that the seller claimed that. The switch wouldn't heat up if it was under rated, what would happen is in a couple weeks the on and off poles will fuse together and the mod will autofire continuously until the batteries are removed. This box mod is incredibly dangerous, it doesn't even look like there's specific vents for when this mod fails, which it will invariably do unfortunately.
Here's an example of the type of switch you have. It's rated for 2 amps.
Relevant: http://www.amazon.com/4-port-4-Legged-Octopus-Design-Purple/dp/B002SEEC78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335023697&sr=8-1
I don't know what other people think, but obviously you're not an electronics guru (neither am I!). I get pretty careful when it comes to things I'm plugging into the mains. If you were just measuring power consumption of a single chip, it would be different. So I'd be tempted to buy a plug in power meter (something like this ) and then figure out where it puts it's output into whatever drives its LCD display. Then read that into the arduino.
However, in the future, something like this may be the ticket:
http://www.cirrus.com/en/products/cs5463.html
Also check out this if you want to try and make something yourself.
I'm a total noob at HA, but I went to a meet up recently where the presenter talked about the Shelly 2.5 relay with power metering. Looked pretty cool, and the Amazon web page claims integration with Home Assistant.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQ866JJ/ref=psdc_6291368011_t1_B07CM9HNR1
FYI, there's a hell of a deal on those energy monitors at Amazon right now: 3 for $46.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSB09104-Energy-Microfiber/dp/B011540UAO/
A simple electrical usage meter is super handy when checking for power usage and they are cheap. This way you can test real world usage vs just the rated amps or watts which is usually at the max.
For example, if it is rated for 100 watts you aren't running that sewing machine at full the whole time. The motor may also require more at surge than continuous. So you can measure the amount it takes to say make a quilt from end to end or your use on a typical day.
Knowing this can save you a bunch of $ vs over spending on solar or batteries. They are well worth the investment, just get one that will store the info when unplugged or power is out.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-5-8x5-8x10mm-Mounting-Tactile-Button/dp/B07HC8Q4YQ/
Or use a clothespin to hold down the button.
While this is commendable, how much power are you using? I would think that would be the big issue if you did this for a long time. If you're not sure how to measure, you can get something like the KiloWatt to determine. Once I did this sort of thing and figured that out, I decided to build a Ryzen box.
https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540739544&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=kilowatt+meters&psc=1
Something like this?
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.vlxDbWXF53FM
KILL-O-WATTS
(Actually a cool product Kill A Watt Energy Monitor if you’ve never heard of it before)
Does your energy consumption increase account for all of that larger bill or did the cost of electricity and/or its delivery go up too?
There could be other factors as well. I'm not saying tanks don't have a cost to run but something simple like increased heating or cooling, longer showers or more laundry, degrading seals on windows or doors, less efficient fridge, other electronics - they could also play a part in the household using more energy.
If you want to confirm the true cost of your tanks you could measure them with an electricity meter like this.
Your metal ducts will probably already be at the same potential voltage as ground if they are connected directly to the air handler, unless you have a noise isolation collar in between. It wouldn't hurt to bond anything though. You could take bonding jumper from the panel enclousure then jump between everthing you wanted to bond or install a wall mounted ground bus bar like this. If you went ground bus bar route, take a #4 ground wire from the ground bar inside the panel to the ground bus bar.
Here's some related code:
250.104(B) Other Metal Piping. If installed in, or attached to, a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure; the grounded conductor at the service; the grounding electrode conductor, if of sufficient size; or to one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding conductor(s) or jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible.
Informational Note No. 1: Bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety.
It's not really all that "wrong", though. The important thing to do with this one is to isolate the neutrals. Get a ground bus bar and move all the bare copper grounds to that. Leave the incoming and outgoing neutrals on the screw terminals on the far left of the disconnect. You have an unused 20-amp circuit in there - the bottom screw of the left fuse. You can get power for your receptacles from there. Use 12 AWG wire for the new receptacles (aka plug or outlets). The white neutral for the new receptacles would go under one of the neutral screws (one wire per screw, unless the disconnect's label says you can have 2 wires under each screw), and the bare ground would go onto your new bus bar.
Now, check the fuse in the middle of the disconnect (the one with the yellow price tag), and check the white Romex cable coming out of the top of the disconnect. The Romex is probably 14 AWG, and labeled something like "14-2 w/ground". If so, make sure that middle fuse is a 15-amp fuse. The left fuse is a 20-amp fuse, which requires larger (12 AWG) wire. 20 amps is enough to overheat 14 AWG wire and possibly start a fire.
While you're at it, double-check the breaker on the main panel that feeds this disconnect, and check the size of the gray UF wire feeding it. It looks like 10 AWG UF (10-2 w/ground). If so, make sure the breaker feeding it is a 30-amp (or less) breaker. Personally, I'd put a 20-amp breaker in front of this - if there's an overload, the entire underground feeder is more protected, and flipping a breaker is a lot cheaper than replacing a $5 fuse.
There are too many external factors to consider. Insulation value of your home probably makes the most difference and we really can't measure that.
​
You can easily found out for yourself with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=power+meter&qid=1556896508&s=gateway&sr=8-1
>Aparte de will prowse que otras fuentes me puedes recomendar para aprender del tema?
Battery university,
y electronica en general.
EEVBlog
Electroboom (basico).
Great scott.
>No tengo mucho conocimiento sobre el tema pero he estado leyendo y quisiera aprender y energizar cosas en la casa con luz solar (mas alla de los apagones). Me gustaria saber mas sobre el sistema que vas a instalar y los costos, los paneles solares, la controladora, las baterias, que tipo de dispositivos vas a energizar, etc.
Toda la casa? Aires también?
Lo mejor es que pases una lista de las cosas que quieres usar y su consumo. Un kill a watt meter no viene mal.
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Energy-Voltage-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B06XH73LJB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=killawatt+meter&qid=1557038490&s=gateway&sr=8-3
>Tambien mas detalles del sistema que usas actualmente con la bateria de carro.
Mi sistema actual usa.
1 Panel de 100W de richsolar (esos dan 100W de verdad, que no todos lo logran, wills prowse tiene varios videos comparando paneles solares). El panel vale 80$.
1 controlador solar barato de 30A PWM que vale 10$.
El inversor es un Bestek 1000W, lo consigues por 40$ en ebay. Hay una buena review de el.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iE7W1lZNEDg
El inversor ya sobrevivió yo metiendole un corto circuito en la salida por accidente varias veces (larga historia xd).
Ojo que es un Inversor de onda cuadrada, no puedes usar motores de bombas de agua, lavadoras y airesacondicionados con el (los motores de ventiladores si los puedes usar que son motores shaded pole o PSC). Tampoco lo puedes usar con luces LED que usen un capacitor dropper (la forma mas facil de descartar si una luz es capacitor dropper es viendo si puede trabajar con 110V o 220V (que te deice que no lo es), o solo con 110V(que puede que lo sea)).
En fin, con el sistema que tengo actualmente puedo mover el PC de dia cuando hay sol (mi PC con un monitor consume 60W), ya cuando empieza a atardecer solo podemos utilizar los telefonos.
Podemos usar cosas como la licuadora que aunque consume 700W uno no la llega a usar ni 1 minuto, lo mismo con el secador de pelo mi madre, tenemos los ventiladores para dormir, las luces prendidas sin problemas.
Para los envios uso tealca, recientemente tuvieron una promocion de 15$ el pie cubico para envios maritimos (cada panel solar de los que tengo mide casi 1 pie cubico) y llega en 2 semanas.
>Yo pense en energizar la nevera pero a largo plazo creo que me gustaria mas energizar la computadora y otros electronicos para que no sufran los constantes bajones a los que estamos expuestos.
Una forma es que elimines un breaker de un circuito de tu casa y le dejes el inversor de forma permanente, la mejor forma es que instales un transfer switch en una caja de derivacion. Yo voy a usar este (ya hice unas pruebas rapidas y hace el cambio al inversor al instante sin que se apague el PC).
https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-JQX-12F-General-Purpose-Automatic/dp/B01LWXTHIX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DPDT+relay&qid=1557039436&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.
BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
36x20x62 and qb 240 v2 with red
Getting one per driver, this is to help control the dim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GRGlDb10RKKAZ
This one the ups will plug into for the total grow draw. From the reviews it works best for monthly totals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OSGlDbH2XY0Y1
Here is the humidity control. Has setting for humidity and dehumidify. I used it for mushroom tents and works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMFRHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUGlDbJWPZYC1
Something like this might be useful in determining how much power you need. Perhaps buy a mini-fridge that will use less electricity and transfer your food there in case of an outage.
Another idea is to freeze water bottles and water filled soda bottles to act as ice to help keep food cold in case of an outage.
The wattage meter just tells me how many watts I’m pulling I still adjust via the dimmer. So no, it’s not necessary at all just takes some of the guess work out of it.
This is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DPJ3RGB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H8MS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can get a watt meter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ and use it along with your electric bill to figure out how much of the charge is for the server.
check your motherboard manual, usually the b slots (2 and 4) are preferred for dual kits, although this shouldn't be the issue.
best way to check powerdraw is to get a meter like this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524946894&sr=8-4&keywords=watt+meter
I mean...there are octopus cables.
Is that what you're looking for?
Yes, there are a few devices designed to measure AC power usage which you could just put before the extension cord leaves your house, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VX3PWJX/
This one has the 'data hold feature' as they call it... which means it won't lose it's shit if it loses power or you unplug it temporarily, so you can get a good idea for a week or so, or even season-long usage amounts. :)
I'd take readings on different days as far as how many KWh it used, make sure you get a wide range of different environmental temperature conditions in your data-set so we see how it's going to affect the power usage. :)
Have you ever plugged in a watt meter to see what your PC consumes over say a week? Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC.
You can get a Square-D 6-circuit sub-panel for around $35 on Amazon. I use them all the time. They're rated for 100A, but you decide on what to use for a main breaker 9you actually don't have to use a main breaker if the circuit is already protected at the source)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00002N7MO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Get one of these, too:
https://www.amazon.ca/Square-Schneider-Electric-PK7GTACP-Terminal/dp/B002FQKSKO/ref=pd_sbs_60_5/134-0439302-1691058?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002FQKSKO&pd_rd_r=87334786-2966-418d-a1a8-b154b3bbe38a&pd_rd_w=4XQpF&pd_rd_wg=KOEDe&pf_rd_p=0602d3b5-e536-4dc4-9e55-dd650b3d14d4&pf_rd_r=RX2M5PMDM7TPY0W10T6M&psc=1&refRID=RX2M5PMDM7TPY0W10T6M
https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=killawatt+meter&qid=1572154034&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRTY5VEkwUVdUSEdKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM2MTU4M1ZDNExYTjhBSEVVSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzA0NDczNUxIVkI1UjZRTDU0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Kettles use a lot of electricity, but for a very short amount of time (unless you fill the kettle right up every time like an insane person).
At my day rate electricity of about £0.21 per kWh, it would cost about £0.63 if I left the kettle boiling constantly for an hour. It generally takes about 2 minutes to boil the kettle with enough water for two cups (minimum fill), so the cost of the kettle works out at between £0.01 and £0.02 per cup depending on whether I make one for just myself or use the extra water to make someone else a brew.
It's misleading to only look at how much power something consumes without paying attention to how long it's actually on for.
If you want more insight into how much electricity a specific appliance actually uses, these are alright. Set the time, set your electricity rate (it supports differential tarrifs [economy 7, 10, etc] too), then plug it in for a couple of hours/days/whatever and it'll tell you how much power it's used, how much it's cost so far.
It also shows some other stuff that most people probably won't find useful like how much current the appliance is drawing, voltage, frequency, and power factor.
I, personally, don't like "internet of things" doodads attached to my home's mechanicals. They're vulnerable to attack by botnets.
This one, in particular, is just a fancy Kill-A-Watt type device.
Is it something you really need or is it just a $300 gadget you kinda want because it looks cool?
What every one has said about profitability is correct - but personally I've only ever mined bitcoins for a bit of fun. Its a good learning exercise - and if your interested in Bitcoin its a good way to learn more about it.
Bottom line is with your setup, its never going to be profitable - so I wouldn't worry too much about the maths - it will only depress you!
To answer your Q's though -
Yeah I definitely don’t feel comfortable doing that. The closest I come to you is considering something like this. Would that have the same impact?
Home Energy Consumption Analyzer
I told my apartment complex maintenance guy if we can’t figure out what’s going on that I would like for them to have out an electrician to do an energy audit...but I don’t think I should be the one to have to pay for that. Then again I don’t know if I really have a leg to stand on to require them to do that.
Unsure. You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716WQW79
get a power meter that should measure power on individual things. There are quite a few, here is one.
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Consumption-Analyzer-Overload-Protection/dp/B0716WQW79
This guy right here :) USB Hub 2.0 4-port For Mac and PC. True USB 2.0 Speed. 4-Legged Octopus (TM). Very Cute Octopus Design. (Purple) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SEEC78/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.i3Aub04K0F4T
I thought he was powered and it wasn't. Do I need to use a powered one?
I read about the Sense (whole house monitoring) and some others, but ultimately I think the single-device is a better start.
I am kind of leaning towards this: https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=kill-a-watt&qid=1564001055&s=hi&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
Just a standard home AC power meter.
I specifically use an Energenie
Damn reddit is amazing. Thanks @az_adventurer!
Found this one on amazon as well. One of the reviews has pictures with it located outside.
https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mounted-Copper-Ground-SCGB-1KT/dp/B00GJUZUMI
Something like this
Kuman Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Meter Energy Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD Display,Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pgHKDbFSP9FM6
I haven't used it personally, so I cant personally vouch for it. But it seems to fit your wants.
With bills that high, get one of these power monitors off Amazon and have it installed. It could save you hundreds. Your one-month usage is almost as many KWh as I use annually in a 2000 sq ft home.
Here you go! http://www.amazon.com/Amp-Non-Fusible-Safety-Switch/dp/B00002NB0H
But seriously, use a dang mosfet!
Amazon has them in a 3-pack for $44.95 - https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSB09104-Energy-Microfiber/dp/B011540UAO
Also Gen1, but seem to work fine.
Not a bad price if you only want the pair of large current transformers either.
The input wires I think. Not sure about which breaker, I don't really know how the device handles multiple breakers. :x
220v or so I think. I'm looking to set this up: http://www.amazon.com/Efergy-E2-Wireless-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B003XOZG0Y/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
I'm more partial to P3's Kill-a-Watt but Amazon also has this thing for sale rn @ $15
Back in the day when I did that kind of stuff as part of my job, I would do runtime X2 and add a little more. Not exact, but a quick “rough number.”
This is a nice tool to see what your gear is doing in real time....
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HZpJDb26YPW33
I'm not an electrician but an EE, so an electrician can comment on the physical side of things- but from the spec side:
6000 W at 120V is 50 amps. You want to stay below 80% threshold so two 30A breakers would be 48 amps. It's a little over spec, and it wouldn't pass code here in WA but you'd "probably" be fine. However, if you're using 30 amp breakers you'll need 10 gauge wire, which is normally not run in 120V (it's usually 220). Typically you'd run 12/2 or 12/3 romex on 20 amp breakers. If you're running that much line, it's probably cheaper/easier to run a higher gauge (like 6 AWG) and put a subpanel in the room you can split out in 20 amp breakers. You'd have to just ask them price wise to spec it out both ways and see.
As for a "meter" you can definitely have an electrician install on (especially if you get a subpanel), but you're probably more looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5
That said (and a big "don't do any of this if you're not comfortable") it's really easy to run wire. The actual wiring at the panel/subpanel and the outlets can be a little trickier if you're not familiar, but running the wire itself is just "grunt" work. Make sure you secure it every 4ish feet, within 6 inches of the outlet, and put nail plates if it's within 1.25" of the outside edge of wood.
Edit: Assuming you have access to a crawlspace/can open walls. Running wire through closed walls/spaces fucking sucks and I don't wish it on anyone.
Killawatt
For example
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FNxCDbWDCVFY8