Best component car speakers according to redditors

polk db6501

Front: Polk DB6501 $113.69

Rear: Polk DB651 $60.36

Mids/highs amp: Alpine MRV-F300 $138.69


Sub: Sundown SA-12 $194.99

Sub Amp: Hifonics BRX-1100.1 D $179.95

Total: $689 Rounded up, before taxes, box, and wiring.

Alright here we go:

1. DSP's: I've only had experence with a rockford 3sixty.2, but even with that i say that processed audio is exponentially better. That being said, here is what i've gathered are the best DSP's from r/carav. The jbl ms8 which is discontinued but you can find good deals on ebay. The Rockford 3sixty.3 which i personally recommend; and finally the miniDSP with everything added in. You will definitely need some tutorials on EQ'ng and RTA software if you plan on installing these yourself.
   
   
2. Regarding components, you have to go to a audio shop to really get a feel for what you like. Are you fine with mid level components or the audiophile grade? for great mid level i recommend Hertz DSK. For audiophile grade i would go for Morel Tempo's. the coaxials in the rear doors are less important. You can go for some cheaper pioneers which will do the job and still sound good, or find some matching coaxials to your components if you wish.
   
   
3. Go for a 4 channel + a monoblock. I would choose this Cadence D100.4 and a Zapco 1000W rms monoblock. I hope your electrical is decent. If you wish to spend a little extra you can look into a HO alternator or possibly just a bigger audio battery such as XSpower, Kinetik, or Shuriken.
   
   
4. Two tens would be good, but a single twelve would take up less space and not require as much power which is always good. I would get a single Fi SSD which is great for either sealed or ported enclosures. If you want tight bass get a sealed enclosure, if you want to bump hard get a ported box built to specs. Either way, don't buy a prefab, get it custom made.
   
   
5. SOUND DAMPEN EVERYTHING. Dynamat is great and i use it, but many r/carav enthusiasts go for Noico which is also butyl rubber dampener which is much more cost effective. Do your doors, rear deck, and trunk.
   
   overall it should be: $1,880 with everything added in, the most expensive component set, and wire harness. You could spend the extra little bit on a replacement starter battery geared towards audio (the brands i recommended). You will need to double check, but from what i found your alternator outputs 130A, and it should be able to handle up to 1200W comfortably. Set your gains accordingly with a multimeter.
   
   
   Regarding the install, you can do it yourself but it will take much longer than you think it will. With determination and plenty of video tutorials or outside help you can finish it very well. If taking off your cars panels, electrical work, and woodwork/drilling sound daunting, get a professional to install. It can be anywhere from $400-1000 extra depending on what you have them do (component install, DSP programming, sound deadending, amp wiring and install). You can get discounts on labor if you buy stuff from them, so again, please do listen to setups from your local audio shops.

http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.

$95 Pioneer 6800bt Or your fav Kenwood, Alpine, etc in this range.

$140 Hertz DSK

$190 5 PPi channel amp Would bridge the amp for the front and skip the rear, or use head unit power

$110 JBL sub

I'd ditch the rear speakers, or put in cheap ones of your current ones are blown, or whatever... They don't matter too much.

Check the /r/CarAV side bar for the approved gear link for more suggestions. These are on sale and are definitely a step up from the Fosgate

https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS

The Hertz HSK line is even better but the ones I linked look like they're on sale at Amazon.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/CL-61-Audio-Component-Speakers-System/dp/B00FX9SO74

Or these babies, if properly tuned will blow those Fosgates completely out of the water.

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-RM6-2-Reference-Component-Speaker/dp/B00G4L6V0W

Don't forget to look at Morel. They are pretty much the gold standard of speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Morel-6-5-Component-System/dp/B003F2U79O

I would have reversed it and gone with some Hertz components

http://www.amazon.com/Hertz-HSK-165-Hi-Energy-Component/dp/B001KOYXGC

and an alpine amp. Or just ditch the Alpine gear all together as they have gone downhill in quality in recent years but still make decent Head Units and Amps. They've just never been that good for speakers.

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

$300 for 4 speakers? Thats a pretty good budget.

I would personally buy these 6.5's and these 6x9's. Now, i have the first set of speakers i linked, and so do a lot of the people on this subreddit. They are pretty nice sounding speakers, and will get as loud as you need. I linked those 6x9's because they are the same model as the first, just different size.


Also, i saved you $50, that you should spend on deadening.

These.

I really like Pioneer head units and their component speakers. Can't beat the price or quality. Here's a couple speakers for you....

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1730C-Component-Speaker-Package/dp/B00SI4RGIY/ref=sr_1_2?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1452802473&sr=1-2&keywords=pioneer+component+speakers

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1330C-Component-Speaker-Package/dp/B00SI4RDIM/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1452802473&sr=1-5&keywords=pioneer+component+speakers

Polk db5251 5.25" components are about $100 per set.

I have the 6.5" db6501s and they're quite good, and very loud without distorting (with proper amp).

2000 Mitsubishi Monter Sport has: (2) 4" Dash speakers, (2) 6.5" Front Door Panel Speakers, and (2) 6.5" Rear Door Panel Speakers. Are you going with (4) 6.5" inch speakers for a total of $80? That's going to be kind of hard to do... But within guidelines, I'd say Precision Power PPI PM.654. I'd wait for sonicelectronix to get them in stock, or you can find them on amazon for more money. They seem to have a huge magnet for 6.5" and Precision power is a relatively good brand

I bought these I like em they get pretty loud and the bass is good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZQWJFIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gXKkeMEfXpZUA

Ridiculously overpriced but thats just my opinion. I had alpine type r components in front, two way in rears a 12in sub and alpine 5 channel amp for about $600 cheaper. Sure the sub is nice since its out of the way but you can purchase that separately if you want it. The amp was the most expensive piece it was like $400-500. You're better off buying a 4 channel amp and getting aftermarket speakers.

Here are the specs on the type r components:

110 Watts RMS
330 Watts Peak

The speakers alone will trash that system.

componenets $150

2 way $100

pdx-f4 $305

or

pdx-v9 $430

then pick a sub and it'll still be a better deal than the oem system.

I personally like the SPR-60C set from Alpine, about $150 and I think the Pioneer digital amp line is an outstanding value. The GM-D1004 looks like a great match with power to spare for only $100 street. It's twice as powerful as the Alpine power pack for the same money or less.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD1004-45X4-Compact-Class/dp/B00O8B7BXQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417587005&sr=1-2&keywords=gm-d1004#productDetails

I use a similar setup, with my amp being pretty much the same except older and without the slick form factor. Feeding 200W RMS into each side gives me the ability to extract all the speakers are capable of delivering, which is sufficient for even top down at highway speeds and a reasonable amount of bass for the speaker size without a sub. The extra power gives you options. You can get pretty bassy if you're not cranking it, or you can get pretty loud with less bass. You're not lacking on the power to do so, only the physical limitations of the speaker. You will not be disappointed for $250 combined!

Ah, no problemo amigo.

You don't necessarily need 3 more speakers (per side) for the rest of the sound. You can get great sound from 2 (2 way).

If this is for a car, generally the other frequencies are taken care of by a coaxial speaker (mid woofer and tweeter combined into 1) or a component set (separate mid woofer and tweeter). The component sets are generally a 6.5" or 5.25" mid combined with a tweeter and include a crossover. The crossover filters the correct frequencies to the correct speakers.

For example, https://www.amazon.com/P660C-160mm-2-way-component-system/dp/B001GKAIFU

https://www.amazon.com/Image-Dynamics-IDQ65CS-Component-Speaker/dp/B0197NGN60



Go check out Crutchfield.com and plug in your car. They will be able to tell you what speakers fit your vehicle.

for $200... Component speakers up front is your only reasonable option. Best components in your price range is....

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.

Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.

I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.

But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

I'm thinking about these Rockfords. Does anybody have any experience with them?

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.

I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9

Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:

https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3

The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.

Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

Thanks for the comment!

what do you think of these http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929199&sr=8-1&keywords=SPR-60C

would you recommend getting coaxial speakers in the rear?

I cannot tell you 100% if they're the best for the price, but I can tell you that I really liked the sound of them when I owned them. Keep in mind that part of having a good sounding speaker is having them properly installed. I put some cheap sound deadening mat inside doors (home depot stuff) in the doors along with MDF ring bases and was really satisfied with their capabilities. Here you can see the reviews on amazon. I recommend going through the questions people have had on these speakers.

1. Is my rear woofer will play louder without tweeter than with tweeter attached to it at the same volume?
   
2. How much better a morel tempo 6 component set compared to JBL 609C component set?

possibly these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076SIJP2/ref=psdc_10980771_t3_B00WTMYLBG

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

I would consider installing the equipment yourself. it will save you some money and it is not all that hard to do. That would free up money to get better equipment. As mentioned above 6.5" would be a better option. i would also only do the front speakers. keep the rear stock speakers as fill. Most all of your sound should be coming from the front to maintain good staging and imaging.

Also consider most aftermarket speakers are designed around the fact that they will be amplified (look at power rating). So sound will greatly improve with an amplifier. So i would consider buying a small amplifier for the front speakers as well.

I suggest you listen to the speakers before you buy as sets sound vastly different depending on material used to make them. some are more laid back others are more harsh sounding. If you are stuck on infiniti then i would consider the Kappa series. they are a bit more pricey but sound much better.

This is a nice set for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Image-Dynamics-ID65CS-Component-Speakers/dp/B01I0QI0RU/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1478183682&sr=1-4&keywords=Image+dynamics

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/p-11153-rip-165s-auditor-65-60w-rms-2-way-component-speaker-system.html

small amp:

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-28-two-channel/zapco-st-2b-2-channel-full-range-class-a-b-amplifier.html

install kit ( OFC is best but on a small amp and budget set up this would be okay)
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B017HNIJBY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478184243&sr=1-1&keywords=amp+install+kit&refinements=p_89%3AKnuKonceptz

dash kit and radio harness:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120955812/Metra-95-5812-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705520/Metra-70-5520-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977

Total around $519 and an afternoon to install.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Does that seem like a good deal?

A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?

Taken from a previous post

> I'm planning on getting the Fi Q 12 sealed w/1100 RMS Hifonics amp powering it and have these as my speakers

Sundown lowered the price on their SD65CS components to $189 until they sell out. These are an amazing set for that price and would match up well to.your amp.

They will sound good on your head unit but really will open up with an amp.

If you want a 5 channel amp, components and sub around your budget, I put this together.

Pioneer GM-D9705 Class-D 5-Channel Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8KKR6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X9CvDbCAAS3TV


SD-6.5 CS - Sundown Audio 6.5" 60W RMS Component Speakers System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XF03BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M.CvDb5C3C8SV

Skar Audio Single 10" 1200W Loaded SDR Series Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | SDR-1X10D2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8CPB53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ibDvDb2T169MK


With that said, the P300-12 is a nice, cheap all in one unit that will save you space and time. Mine is in an SUV and sounds good. It doesn't get too deep, I think its range is like 40-120Hz, but it sounds good

Polk audio man. These cost a bit extra but would definitely be worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369987553&sr=1-1&keywords=Polk+audio+db

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

Oh I’m sorry.

Amp

DSR

speakers

Speakers

These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.

So I'm thinking This amp with 2 sets of These speakers. I had and Alpine amp and speakers in my old truck and I never had any issues with them and they had no distortion when I cranked them up. I figure I might as well replace them all at once.

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search

I'm looking at putting these in the doors. Trying to upgrade from these. The oval component speaker market is hella limited- slim pickins.

 

I also have an 8" sub, no name brand, will likely replace the driver with a shallow mount ??? brand woofer (haven't got that far yet- doing this all on a budget, so it's one thing at a time).

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.

Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.

I didn’t have any luck finding a separate Hertz mid to match your tweeters but you could always get the Hertz DSK 165.3 component set that matches those tweeters and sell the two sets of coaxials.

If you’re feeling adventurous you could get a completely separate mid that isn’t a Hertz brand but there’s a lot of options out there and that could be a difficult choice to make if you’re not sure how they will pair with the tweeters. On the plus side you can tweak the crossover points a little to see if different LP/HP crossovers work better.

theyre the chrome version of the speakers that i have on my bike http://i.imgur.com/tZqgceB.jpg i forget the brand as its my dads speaker and amplifier setup that he never took off

EDIT: here it is https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-MC470B-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Audio/dp/B00IBI5134/

Since you're looking at a whole system I'd look towards a 5 channel amp like this Kenwood. Polk makes good components. JL makes good SQ subs. That amp would power these fine. You're going to get a wide variety of opinions on this though.

The speakers on the door are a 1 inch tweeter and about 2.5 inch midrange then the 5 1/4 inch by your feet. Not all one inch tweeters will fit but these fit with little modification. Also check out Bavarian Sound Works even if you're not looking to buy from them to check what sizes they use. I plan on using the speakers I linked below with help from the other link. Good Luck on your first car.
http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/hk_speaker_upgrade/
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB5251-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0PFA0

Oh really? this is the setup I got

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Edit I also have the speaker harness

Do you mean these?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962066&sr=8-5&keywords=alpine+type+r+6.5++3+way

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW

For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

I have had these for years and just love them, would recommend every time!!

So after reading the article and considering I already have a 5 channel amp, should I just get a 6.5" midrange speaker [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/CT-Sounds-6-5-Pro-Audio/dp/B00TTMBD10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486840352&sr=8-5&keywords=meso+6.5) with no tweeter? It sounds like having the rear speakers be full range is the real problem.

I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.

Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ

They have a two way set with the same tweeter, midbass, and crossover

Kinda strange

I was looking at something like this https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-MC470B-Weatherproof-Applications/dp/B00IBI5134/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502153863&sr=8-5&keywords=motorcycle+speakers

But the reviews arent so great.

Morel Virtus

Focal Elite

Stevens Audio SA6-CS

With all door speakers proper install and door treatment is key to get the most from your system.