Best screws according to redditors

Flooring

• KM Cape Doctor Maple 12mm Laminate (discontinued)
  
  
  Closet
  
  
• [Ikea Expedit (discontinued) - replaced with Kallax]
  (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40275813/#/20275814)
  
  
• [1" 6061 aluminum rods, unpolished, extruded]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9JFR8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [1" aluminum shaft collars]
  (http://www.mcmaster.com/#9946k24/=rjcdgv)
  
  
  Door
  
  
• [30x80" Oak Solid Core Door Slab]
  (http://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows/mastercraft-slab-doors/mastercraft-30-x-80-x-1-3-4-oak-solid-core-door-slab/p-1657282-c-12245.htm)
  
  
• [Door Hinges]
  (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-1-2-in-Satin-Chrome-Commercial-Grade-Door-Hinge-20442/204760762)
  
  
• [Schlage Latitude Privacy Door Lever]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ZRI7S/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  Paint
  
  
• KILZ 2 Primer
  
  
• Behr Premium Ultra Pure White
  
  
  Lighting
  
  
• [TL90 Ceiling Flush Mount - Small]
  (http://www.1stoplighting.com/lighting/18-462-634-0-398776/Tech-Lighting_TL-90---Two-Light-Square-Small-Flush-Mount-700FM90S.htm)
  
  
• [TL90 - Large]
  (http://www.1stoplighting.com/lighting/18-462-634-0-308557/Tech-Lighting_TL-90---Two-Light-Square-Large-Flush-Mount-700FM90L.htm)
  
  
• [2GX7 4100k Bulbs]
  (http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2798/FC13-2GX741OD.html)
  
  
• [G9 Halogen Bulbs]
  (http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5113/Q-JCD40120G9.html)
  
  
• [Screwless Wall Plates (these are okay, a bit too retro for my liking but not bad enough for me to return)]
  (http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/rocker-gfci/1-gang-screwless-wall-plate/p-1403968-c-6479.htm)
  
  
  Desk
  
  
• [Linnmon High Gloss White 59x29 1/2" Table Top]
  (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10251352/#/20251356)
  
  
• [Olov Table Legs (I do not recommend these, there's a rattle from the internal tensioning rods)]
  (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10264302/)
  
  
  Hammock
  
  
• [Koch Forged Eye Screw - Small]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T44T7A/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Eye Screw - Large]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T44T8O/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Trek Light Double Hammock]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00857I7KK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Trek Light Gear Go Anywhere Rope Kit]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VDZE2U/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LGJFYK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  Total cost was USD 2197.67.

Kreg Pocket Hole Screws

Amazon: 30% off ($20.96) SK03 Pocket Hole Screw Kit or Starter Kit, good assortment of commonly used sizes for 1/2" and 3/4" material.

150 1 inch fine
150 1-1/4 inch fine
150 1 inch course
150 1-1/4 inch course
75 2-1/2 inch course (exterior rated)

https://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC

Best $12 you'll ever spend

You back the wheel out and attach to port and then attach your hose. Then you screw in the thumb wheel which moves a plunger down to engage the schrader core.

Here, in a pack of 100.

If you're looking for the screws on other sites, the size of the screw is M2-0.4, metric coarse.

KidneyPuncher has a 10-pack of Phillips pan head screws for $1.95

If you want to go the Home Depot route, it will be cheaper, but they usually don't carry them at their B&M stores. However shipping to store is free and sometimes they are cheaper than Amazon.

Amazon and Ebay carry the fasteners your require, but usually in quantities of 25, 50, 100, and etc. Not expensive to buy in bulk, as well.

I personally replace the stock Phillips screws that usually comes with RDAs with flat set screws. It uses a 0.9mm hex key/bit instead of precision Phillips screwdriver, so there is no chance of stripping the head. Just my 2 cents. (A big thank you goes to /u/slumberland for giving me that gem of a tip!)

LINKS:

Amazon - QTY 100 for $3.67 PRIME eligible

Home Depot - QTY 3 for $0.30 FREE shipping to store (arrives Aug. 8 -Aug. 13)


Hope that helps you!

I got you.

20 Pack Figure 8 Steel Desk Top Fastener Clip

They’re M2 screws. You can use these as a direct replacement. Think Worker or Blastertech might sell replacement screws. You could also just thrift some blasters for the screws.

These are a direct replacement for most shell screws.

I use These

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WcTxCbCFH11HP

I got that one and then just bought boxes of the screws I used the most.

You can replace those big, nasty stock screws with these ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUV7O2W. Looks way nicer!

Yes, they are handy to have. I bought this and Im glad I have it. Better quality steel than the chinese stuff I have used. I hate when I strip out a hex head because the metal its made from is garbage. You may want to get a kit with some washers and some longer bolts (35-60mm) as well. I find myself needing those. The washers are handy if you are bolting printed parts together, helps to prevent the bolt head from sinking into the plastic. I have also bought little variety packs of different wire plugs/pins for wiring up steppers, controls boards and other things.

Wow, I am glad you were able to walk away from that without serious injury. This also happened to me about two weeks ago but I was going at 20mph, fortunately I was wearing a full face helmet and walked away with light scars.

I lost 3 of those 4mm Allen Key bolts and ordered this from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F75DMHF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The kit above has the female bolts that you can use to reinforce the bond between the neck (connector) and main body. If you plan on putting it back together I also recommend using blue threadlocker before putting it back together. You can find it at a auto parts store.

Unfortunately this happens due to importing regulations. From what I was told the bolts are loose due to screening before shipment.

I found some on Amazon and I think I'm set until I die now. About $9-10 for 100 and no allen wrench

Why not put some low loss fittings on them? Or something like this

C&D CD5050 Small Thumb Screw Core Depressor / Flow Control Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Gb4DbFQF24S3

M2.5 Flat Point Set Screws Hex Socket Grub Screws /Stainless Steel 304/Pack of 50-Piece Size M2.5 x 4 mm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D891PS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Work great in my Serpent mini

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

• Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
• Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  
• Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  
• M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  
• 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/
  
  Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
  
  The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
  
  Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
  
  Upgrades
  
  A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
  
  
• The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)
  
  
• After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.
  
  
• I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
  
  
• The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.
  
  
• Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.

I agree; you definitely want to make sure to go in to a beam.

I would suggest finding some like this instead, with the solid ring. Either way though, please don't count on it for a full suspension.

motor screws are m3 screws, this is a good place to start but i can't tell how long the screw is so you may want to measure it's length in mm before buying. or if you need it sooner, a local hardware store should be able to match one up for you.

A small pin screw (included) is used in place of a roll pin for the bolt catch. You will need a small hex/Allen key for this, though I don't recall the size.

The threaded takedown pin hole does accept a #4-40 set screw, though it is not required for assembly. I purchased a bag of 100 #4-40x1/8" set screws from Amazon. If you use one, you will also want to cut down the length of the spring by at least as long as the set screw. Using 1/8" long set screws, I usually cut about 1/8" to 3/16" off the length of the spring.

I recently got this set. I’m finding most makers use the largest size (M3), but don’t use the longest length (6mm). I often find that after adding desired spacers the installed grub screws are not long enough to reach. Switching the 4 or 5 mm originals for 6 mm work great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H68PJH?

It's pretty straight forward. Here are the parts I'm using:

1. I bought this ATX plug so I didn't have to splice my power supply.
   
2. Using this PWM controller
   
3. Using these female banana plugs
   
   Those are the things I bought specifically for this project. The things I already had that helped are:
   
   
4. I really like this flexible silicone wire.
   
5. I use these USB connectors for various projects. Their pinout is .1" (2.54mm) and it comes with all kinds. Works well for slimming down a raspberry pi.
   
6. I used one of these prototype boards to solder the usb receptacles and the LED to.
   
7. I'm using a pink LED from this pack of assorted LEDs along either a 100ohm or 220ohm resistor, I can't remember.
   
8. I use one of these DPDT switches to switch between power on w/ PWM and power on w/ power to the solder fume extractor.
   
9. I used a JST connector from this JST kit to put a male header on the side so I can plug in accessories like the solder fume extractor.
   
10. Lastly, the front panel is bolted on with some M3 screws from this assortment.
    
11. The case was modeled in Rhino 5 and printed in a CR-10 using Silver eSun PLA+
    
    This post has made me realize I have way to much electronics stuff just lying around...

I use these with my Foxfire builds. They are roughly the same size as the screws that come with the Stryfe (the head is slightly bigger) but they are a much harder steel. You won't easily strip them out with a screwdriver.

There are sets on Amazon with M3-M5 hardware. Here's the one I started with, but note I'm not saying it's the best deal at this time. It's a good place to start. For long fasteners, or larger amounts of just one size, it's usually better to go to Aliexpress or Ebay.

In my own designs I also use a lot of 1/4"-20, although that's mostly because I already had a lot of fasteners that size, plus all three types of taps, plus dies.

I bought that same card from Overclockers UK and it's terrific, it was the first one I've ever bought/used so didn't really what to expect for £150.

Also just bought Articlean set off Amazon for a £10, it comes with the 3.5g tube but the Hyper 212 Evo should come with thermal paste anyway.

Also maybe consider ditching the sound card and going with the Asus Maximus Hero/Ranger motherboard it has better on board audio, I would imagine at least as good as the sound card you were looking at.

Rest looks good!

Chicago Bolt
3/8 inch Stainless Steel Chicago Screws Screw Posts 36 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FDXM86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ka44CbW8FKKPB

Whatever screws hold everything together(I think they are m3 machine screws? Go online and order a variety pack of that size. It will come in sooooo handy. You’ll end up with thousands of them in no time but it’s good to have an organized set of em around.

M3 Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Nuts Assortment Kit, Allen Wrench Drive, Precise Metric Bolts and Nuts Set with Beautiful Assortment Tool Box for 3D Printed Project, 310 Pcs (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FKMYMF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nM.OCbB1DY7G7

In the long run they really aren't that expensive and they really are the right choice for the job. I got a deal on this screw kit awhile ago and love it for holding all my different sizes. When I run low on a particular kind I just fill up that section. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373908528&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+jig+screws

1. Lightning vapes has 316l clapton spools, all I've been using lately. It's really good. Had the same one in my serpent for 2 weeks. 25 feet for 11 bucks and fast shipping.
   
   
2. If they are the same as the serpent mini grub screws, which I would imagine to be true, these will work.
   
   M2.5 Flat Point Set Screws Hexu Socket Grub Screws /Stainless Steel 304/Pack of 50-Piece Size M2.5 x 4 mm
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D891PS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

I stripped one of my triwing screws while doing a joycon shell replacement and these fit perfectly as a replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2HVGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MNI0Ab1Q7RQVN

M1.4 x 5mm

Amazon 100x set

If you want the heads to be black, paint them or use a sharpie or nail polish AFTER screwing them in. The screw driver will strip anything you color them with.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Paste-Articlean-Cleaner/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939168&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+silver

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-1500W-Hot-Air-Gun/dp/B002VJO70W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939212&sr=8-4&keywords=heatgun

http://digiex.net/attachments/guides-reviews/console-guides/playstation-3-guides/5344d1284624453-gilksys-playstation-3-ps3-yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide-ylod-fix.pdf

That's all you need to fix the ylod

Use something like this bolt to attach to the shed. Predrill a small hole into a stud and screw it in. Attach a tensioner like this one to the lag bolt then attach the cable to the tensioner.

As someone said previous, drill a hole slightly bigger than the cable you plan to use thru the post of the basketball hoop. Thread the cable thru and use one of these cable clamps on the back side to secure the cable from slipping back out of the post.

Tighten the tensioner by turning the center section while keeping the two end hooks from turning. The two hooks are opposite threads so turning the center will draw the ends in.

So I've heard. I'm going to buy some new thermal paste as well, is this a good kit do buy do you think? Looks like a good deal to me.

You're fine with 1 decimal, if you want to build super low ohm quads at some point yeah I'd recommend getting a standalone ohm meter.

Avoid the caravela as a first mod. The clones are good, don't get me wrong, but the caravela is supposed to come with 5 different length positive pins to adjust for your atomizer and the clone comes with 1. So basically you can only use it with atomizers with an adjustable pin, or you're risking having gaps or battery rattle or worse yet, no connection.

The nemesis clone is a solid choice. It's tried, true, great with magnets, and it's a standard 22mm size. Fasttech also sells colored aluminum tubes for it if you want a lower voltage drop or the look. If I were buying a new mod right now and I didn't have any, I'd get a brass nemesis clone off fasttech with the black or red tube kit.

For the atomize it just depends on how much you want to drop. You can get GREAT results from some of the cheap $5 fasttech atomizers simply by picking up a pack of m2x0.4 machine screws http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHXNPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and replacing the cheap screws most of the fasttech attys come with.

Cheap RDA's:

$6 Fasttech Omega clone

$3-5 Fasttech phoenix v5 nimbus clone (with the above mentioned screws)

Authentic igo-l/w (cheap on 101vape)


Mid end RDA's:

Igo-W + 22mm top cap (cap it all vapes) + optional copper posive pin (about 30-40bux)

Trident v2 clone (about 20bux)

Atomic clone (will be in the wild soon, be patient)


Low-High End:

Authentic Nimbus

Authentic Patriot (some sites are selling it for $50)

Don't be afraid of starting with something lower end, I have a zillion RDA's and my $5 fasttech nimbus clone and my igo-l/w's probably see the most use. Airflow control isn't really needed since you will probably find an airhole size you like and stick to it, that's what a drill's for. I like having it, but things like "how easy is this thing to build on" are much more important.

This is the part I bought to still get a chin mounted position with a pesky mouth vent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PRIWJAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also had a problem with the gopro screws. They were so long they were jutting into my chest and my shoulders when i'd turn my head to turn or check for cars. I bought these which are much lower profile to fix that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUV7O2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The assembly feels a little loose since the screws aren't as long as i'd like them to be, but overall it's held together on rides. Got up to 70mph and it was fine. Then again, my windscreen blocks everything aside from the top of my head which still gets buffeted.

Hope that helps!

I don't see why a simple lag eyebolt screwed into each 4x4 wouldn't work.

Hell, just a hole drilled through the 4x4 with some rope through it would probably be just fine. It's not like a shed is particularly heavy, unless you're making a reinforced concrete bunker-shed.

M2.5 x 4 mm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D891PS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

according to here

I remember scrambling for those pesky m3 screws… getting the right length etc. I used to buy them at about $.25 each from the local “metric” carrying hardware store! Amazon has these assortments…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ONCP88/

And 608 bearings! WTF is a 608 bearing? Again, Amazon comes through…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUH45DU/

not exactly cheap or all encompassing but i'd probably go with this assorment

It was very easy to take apart and put back together the controller. Just have to find the correct size screw. This is what I used. And they are perfect size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSKSTED/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Yes it is, air bubbles will have formed and act as an insulator. This will make the entirety of the thermal paste useless and lead to sever CPU overheating. You will need to purchase some more.

Here is a link to some good quality thermal paste that will last you a while as while as a remover kit

Thermal Paste and Remover kit : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Paste-Arcticlean/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483407008&sr=1-6&keywords=Thermal+paste

Have any closer pictures? If there are threads in the bottom I would guess it’s a Chicago Screw and if not I would guess it’s a small Rivet . If it’s not those then it’s beyond my expertise!

I have a few boxes of misc nuts and bolts, which happen to include M3x20 (it's a fairly common size)

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468998197&sr=8-1&keywords=m3+assortment

Get this or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/

Theres a bunch of mods that require various sizes of m3 screws, having a variety pack around great.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

I found this useful:

https://smile.amazon.com/Stainless-Precise-Tapping-Washers-Assortment/dp/B07F75DMHF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2PA9RB06RY5JO&keywords=metric+screws+assortment&qid=1568049527&s=gateway&sprefix=metric+scre%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSDRGVTFGMjlNOFNXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDUwNzU4SlVQT1JYQ1RCUVJVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NzY3NzIyMElEWEU5QThIRUxaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

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It's an entire box of screws. A lot of the projects on Thingiverse also use metric screws, and it's handy to have the box there.

threads and screws have to be the same size to fit so if you use a m5 thread you need a m5 screw to fit the thread. sucks to hear that they are hard to find where you are, you can get them on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=wood+thread+insert+m5&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Awood+thread+insert+m5 screw i used are m5*16mm but had to cut of a few mm because they were to long, something like this https://www.amazon.com/80-20-11-5520-Metric-Socket/dp/B00JUV7O2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487508457&sr=8-1&keywords=head+screw+m5 but you also would have to cut off a few mm as they are 20mm but no big deal

HVAZI M2 M2.5 M3 Stainless Steel Internal Hex Drive Cup Point Set Screws Assortment Kit

https://www.amazon.com/HVAZI-Stainless-Internal-Screws-Assortment/dp/B073H68PJH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1540570606&sr=8-7&keywords=metric+set+screw+assortment&dpID=41zlqbR9frL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Set Screw Set


I much prefer metric set/grub screws...the trick is don’t crank’em down...IMHO. you don’t get any better connection by over-torquing.

VIGRUE M2 M3 M4 1080PCS Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts, 1080 Pcs Hex Socket Head Cap, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KBVZVV/

I did the same and ended up finding replacement screws the same size but with a Phillips head

EDIT: I noticed I didn't answer your question but if you do get it out, I think these were the ones I got but it was awhile ago so def make sure you check the size before getting them: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Stainless-Phillips-Tapping-Screws/dp/B01LZ2HVGM

There is special hardware that allows the tabletop to move as necessary.

Here is one style. With this type, you use a Forstner bit to make a little recess in the apron to allow for a flush-fitting, and then attach as normal. You put them on the 2 opposite sides that do not expand/contract as much (width of the boards), and then leave them off of the 2 sides that expand/contract more (length of the boards).

This is the bracket I used. It works fine in PLA, and mounts in the control box to the same screwholes as the mainboard. It fits the extremely common style of mosfet board like this one, which comes from a bunch of manufacturers but are all the same size and shape.

While you're at it, you'll probably want to pick up a set of assorted lengths M3 screws like these ones - both the mosfet and Z brace mods will require you to replace some of the screws with longer ones.

These are what I used.

Core depressors are the actual name for them.

https://www.amazon.com/Thumbscrew-Core-Depressor-Part-CD5050/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499473238&sr=8-1&keywords=CD5050

I have three, because sometimes an oil injector or something will have a valve that needs depressed.

This is how you used them as 'low-loss fittings'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvNbS8k1U-4

Hey guys, making a post about finding replacement screws. I have looked up previous questions and only found some useful things from it. The basic thing is that for the 'regular' sized screws, I can use this. Not sure about it, because the answers to a question about Nerf on there basically cancel each out. From my measurements, the common screw sizes are 3/8", 5/16", and either 7/16" or 1/2". The only problem I have is the thread count, I don't know whether to use a coarse thread or a fine thread for the replacement screws. I can barely get a quarter of the screws off to tell if they're too rusted or if they've been stripped (leaning more towards rust). The recommended screw is #3-24, but it's likely that I'll be opening up my Longshot quite a few times in the future. So should I just use that thread count or opt for a coarser thread count to keep the blaster together?

TL;DR What the f%&* is thread count and what screws should I use for my Longshot?

P.S. If I read any comments about just thrifting some Mavericks or something for the screws, I'll label it as spam. I'm looking for help, not snark.

I dunno. Aero doesn't really offer anything that you can't DIY pretty easily other than finish and I do like to rattlecan guns. As soon as we replace the oven in the kitchen, that might be migrating out to the garage to see if I want to get into Cerakote.

> The intergrated trigger guard is really nice

I like the ability to pick and choose, but I usually default to MagPul plastics.

> threaded bolt catch is a god send of making the hardest part of the lower build the easiest

Knipex flat jaw pliers for all the roll pins makes it super simple.

> I like the set screw in the back

4-40 tap and tap wrench along with a phat sack of these. If you chop a couple coils off the safety detent you can tap and thread that for the same screws as well.