Best scriber marking tools according to redditors
We found 39 Reddit comments discussing the best scriber marking tools. We ranked the 21 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 39 Reddit comments discussing the best scriber marking tools. We ranked the 21 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Tungsten carbide tipped scribe. Similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1
It's a tungsten carbide scribe tool - albeit a very inexpensive one. Works really well, found this one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789H9G12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aside from the usual stuff, I love my scribr which I use for scribing and cleaning panel lines, and for making an indent to start drill holes for example in the tips of 1/72 gun barrels. Photoetched razor saws that fit in the X-acto knife. And Dremel steel cutters
It’s a scribe. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_mmB2CbSBQN28P
Marking Gauge
Contour Gauge
Pull Saw
There's a shaping thing I see advertised a lot on the WoodWorkWeb Youtube channel, except today when I want to find it. But it's a bunch of straight edges that are held together with wing nuts and you use to to replicate odd shapes for cutting to fit.
Flexible Ruler, Letter Stencils and a Carbide Tipped Scribe.
It will give reasonably fine lines, but it absolutely won't wear off in a hurry.
You're going to need to go over each line several times and apply a lot of force to get a good deep scribe for it to remain visible compared to cosmetic scratching that occurs over time.
If you've got the money BMC chisels are the ones to get. They're really high quality and that means you're sure to get smooth and straight cuts when scribing. But they can be really pricey for 1 size of chisels. The panel lining tool from Mr. Hobby or Tamiya like this and this are great as well. These engravers come with varying heads sold separately not just for panel lining but for chisels as well (shapes like the ones for wood working, which is great for battle damage work). You should use different size engravers or chisels for different grades and to make different effects. I personally use the one from Mr. Hobby and it's been a breeze to use.
Scribing isn't too complicated. What you want to get is panel lining guide tape like this or just some old regular dymo tape. These tapes act as a guide like a ruler for you to make straight lines. You might also want to get something like this template to make more generic shapes.
I recommend going over your gunpla with a pencil to draw the panel line design you like, there are a ton of inspiration to draw from. After laying down the guide tape, use a pencil first to see if the line is in the correct position. Using guide tape instead of dymo tape is better in this case because your pencil line is more visible. There's nothing worse than finding out that your line isn't completely level after carving. Make thin, light strokes to make panel lines, never go at it in one deep stroke. I personally do 5-7 strokes to make my panel lines
A tool like this can also come in handy to make start/end points so your chisel will lock into place at the small divots. Try to make the divots approximately the same size as your chisel, otherwise you'll end up with panel lines that have big holes on either side.
Sand your gunpla after making a panel line with a high grit sand paper, this evens out the surface.
Important to note that don't worrying about screwing up! You can always use something like Tamiya putty to fill in the mistakes, let dry and start all over again. But I also recommend getting some plaplates to practice engraving especially if you're going to be doing shapes.
Go on and checkout Gunpla Lab on youtube and watch their HG Tristan Revival Project. One of the videos (episode 5 i think) go over panel lining in quite detail and it's a really good watch. Be sure to turn on english subtitles though because they speak korean, but they hire english translators so their subtitles are really good.
Hope this helps!
o-ring pick / scriber. I’ve used cheap ones to take out o-rings, but also for part retrieval in little confined spaces.
They’re crazy useful, but watch that ice-pick-end.
I spent a lot of time stenciling with cardboard and a scribing tool Profiler+ The Ultimate Scribing Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z21QAMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AN2QCbBNYE1S4
So I had the whole wall covered in taped together pieces of cardboard, which I removed in one piece (scary) and overlaid on the sheet of ply. Traced, straightened out some of the lines with straight edge, cut with a jig saw with clean cut blade.
Scribing is awkward, gets you close enough. I used a cut down golf pencil to get into the tight spaces.
Sure!
Saw
Marking wheel
Here’s something cool I’ll bet your friend would use a lot but doesn’t have. Carpentry Scriber Double Headed Scriber Woodworking Double-Line Marking Gauge Ruler Tools for Carpenters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWV4WXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2hcuDb19X99ET
Here’s a much more common marking gauge any woodworker would like: Newkiton Wheel Marking Gauge, 1 Bearing Wheel Cutter for Soft Wood, 1 Locked Up Wheel Cutter for Hard Wood, 1 Screwdriver Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2XCZLL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_flcuDb2J62R12
We woodworkers are suckers for anything made partly or entirely from brass, and we all love marking tools. If your friend already has a similar marking tool, don’t worry, I have multiple marking tools and it is kind of like clamps, you can usually get by with what you have but you can always use more.
I have this one and it seems ot do the job well enough: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525452451&sr=8-1&keywords=igaging+34-707
Awesome info! Yeah I hate to admit it but I'm just not sure how good I'll be at doing them by hand, but I'd love to know its me and not the tools if I fail lol. So I'm glad you told me what you started with. What do you think of this as a marking gauge? iGaging Wheel Marking Gauge
The problem with vintage is they are not commonly in good condition, or at a good price and are rarely both. You need help now. I like my two woodriver planes and think it's a great option. I have had the Stanley one there and it's not good. Also the z saw and the gyo are essentially the same thing.
Here are some things I think are better values or super useful.
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542519&sr=8-1&keywords=narex+chisels
https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Shop-Hammer-13-Oz/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542635&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+chisel+hammer
https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3EFC-Dia-Sharp-Extra-Fine-Diamond/dp/B00006IIO3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542814&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+diasharp
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542992&sr=8-2&keywords=marking+gauge
Thanks for the question! It's a marking gauge, which is used to scribe a line parallel to an edge. They're relatively cheap on Amazon and are awesome to have in the arsenal!
I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Markal-Red-Riter-Silver-Streak-Welder-Pencil/dp/B004N84EFW
The 3-packs are about 3 or 4 bucks on eBay.
I highly recommend getting one of these for your Express, which has pretty much eliminated virtually all wasted/loose coffee grounds not getting into the basket. I also bought one of these to use instead of a toothpick for the WDT since I was having issues with grounds and oils sticking to the wood of the toothpick. Just using these two tools and an aftermarket tamper made my shots 3-5x better than when I first started using the machine.
You can try a mechanical carpenter pencil.
A good chisel to go along with her rock hammer is great for sampling
Also, a scratcher/scribe with a neodymium magnet on the end is incredibly useful for testing hardness and magnetics of a rock
I use a compact mineral identification guide a ton as well. There are many out there, but this one is the one I use - others may be better
Edit: And the most (imo) important part of fieldwork are the notes you take, so a waterproof field notebook is a must-have if she'll be mapping in a rainy environment. This one has geological charts and diagrams in it as well
Above are good lower priced items, but if you really want to go all-out, good boots and a rain jacket are indispensable , but they have to fit very well so she may be better off picking those out herself (at least that's the way I feel about them)
Hope this helps!
Three things he's missing here from a 30+ year modelling/gaming vet:
Using a push pin is great...on 28mm plastics. If you're dealing with metals, that pin isn't going to last long. I use a Tungsten Carbide Scriber to mark my pilot holes, (this does other duties with scratchbulding plasticard)
Using paperclips is ok if you're doing this casually. I've found 1/32" (and other sizes) brass rod is less hassle as it's A: thinner diameter B: No unfolding and straightening, and C: puts less wear and tear on cutters (you can use your sprue trimmers with no ill effect). Also works great as scratch-built hand holds on tanks, antennae, arrow shafts, etc.
He missed a great oppurtunity to share the ancient art of locating the opposing hole with a bit of blu-tak (poster putty). Comes in handy particularly when the first hole isn't centered, or you're pinning to an area that isn't obvious where the mating hole goes (uneven surface, etc)
Yes, A nail or (scribe)[http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1/] would be your best bet for very long term, not scrubbing off, food-safe method for marking metal (and maybe glass)
If anyone wants to carve theirs, use an Etching Pen if you want more control.
Here are some commonly used and often overlooked tools that I use every day and have multiples of in case one goes missing
Spring Punch:
https://smile.amazon.com/Starrett-18AA-Automatic-Adjustable-Diameter/dp/B0006J4Q5U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1503860094&sr=8-11&keywords=spring+punch
Picks/Scribes:
https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-80-Fixed-Scriber/dp/B00004T7RW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503860130&sr=1-2&keywords=pick+scribe
small flashlight:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X2QMKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edge Technology Speedy tool height setter: (This thing is badass and super quick for manual lathe setup)
http://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/speedy-lathe-gage/
It's a scriber for marking/etching metal, ceramic, glass etc. Similar to this one.
Since you're a student, instead of an engraver you could get a carbide scribe instead. I love mine and use it to mark my tools.
This is the one I use, got it cheaper at Ace Hardware. General Tools 88 Tungsten Carbide Scriber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvVZCb5BJTQYX
Don't use scrap steel. Go here http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/ and buy some 3/32" 1075 (2) inches wide. Cut out your pattern using some cheap, thin (1/8" thick) A36 steel plate that you can get at a scrap yard. Draw your pattern on paper, cut it out (roughly) and glue it to the A36 with that white glue we used in the first grade. Drill the rivet holes BEFORE you cut out the pattern. Cause once you cut out the pattern it is difficult to clamp in a vice. Once you have the pattern the way you want it clamp the pattern to the 1075 down on your bench and etch around it and mark the holes with this https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=pd_yo_rr_bia_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6KE1W903PPP22FSCHQC6 Drill the holes BEFORE you cut it out. Buy some temp ssticks at a welding store. Get 1450 degree and 1500 degree sticks. That way you will know when its hot enough to quench. Canola oil is ok to quench 1075.
If it makes you feel better, those are nontoxic Cattle Crayons - they're made out of edible wax.
https://www.amazon.com/Livestock-marker-Cattle-Crayon-Animal/dp/B07CY19B7M
“General USA” is about all I know. I’m not even sure where I got it. Here is a picture of it https://imgur.com/a/bsA30mC
EDIT: Looks like it's probably from this General Tools company and it's pretty cheap too https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-380B-Two-Point-Scriber/dp/B0031EQQDC I'm glad you asked, I'll probably pick up a couple of these.
Its a Wolfcraft one.
They have a Website and sell via Amazon
Edit: added Link
You can get a plain needle scriber like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-70A-Scriber-Hardened-Diameter/dp/B000E60N84/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478327485&sr=8-5&keywords=scriber
and use a metal stencil to help "guide" the scriber and repeatedly scribe the plastic that way. I personally bought that scriber I listed and it looks to be about the right size for MG kits but I have yet to use it.
Right... No graffiti huh... Someone hasn't seen this. What do you think that shit on the mirrors of public bathrooms is?
I assume you have not used hand tools much.
The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.
There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.
But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.
A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.
This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.
I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.
A Mallet to hit the chisel.
I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.
Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.
A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.
A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.
That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.
A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.
Good Luck.
I would agree with the previous comment to buy as you need, BUT if you’re looking for recommendations, two must haves for me are:
Fourth hand
Scribe