Best solar & wind power parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 84 Reddit comments discussing the best solar & wind power parts & accessories. We ranked the 44 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
What about something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NYryb63QQ67P
probably going to want to use a powerbank... something with an outlet that will charge a laptop once or twice. bring the wall charger.. the batteries should charge quickly because it puts out 80W.
maybe a small solar panel to trickle charge the power bank when you're on the move/not flying.
https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-26400mAh-Portable-Universal-Smartphones/dp/B073ZDYD5Y
mavic Pro batteries are about 3800mAh (call it 4k).. bank holds 26k - so you can charge 6 batteries, w/o topping off.
panel
https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Switch-Recharger-Multi-Tool/dp/B00OLINB12/
I drilled a hole through one of my vents and sealed it with polyurethane caulking. I don't recommend this option. Its starting to leak already.
Check out these mc4 glands:
http://www.amazon.com/LINKSOLAR-Weatherproof-Plastic-Connector-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1456967919&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+gland+roof
I do! I chose to use 3 100 watt Monocrystalline panels http://amzn.to/2BVLNeh
To connect those panels in series, i used two pairs of these - http://amzn.to/2BUqQk5
Then used these cables with the unused ends cut off to run the rest of the routing, super solid and thick stranded wire for good power conduction - http://amzn.to/2GLhXgx
I used this glad that i sealed, screwed then resealed over the screws - http://amzn.to/2GNWrYb
These wires then go into a victron 100/30 Smart MPPT charger - http://amzn.to/2BVhvZc
Which is also monitored by the Victron BMV 712 - http://amzn.to/2E4hKD2
Into this battery - http://amzn.to/2GNTw22
With this combination I can accurately track overall use, history, incoming and outgoing amps, and remaining time along with a shit ton of other stuff.
Do you mean what to use so it's waterproof?
You want a Double Entry Gland and you have to seal it with Sikaflex (check the item's description). Do NOT use tape!
Super cut a hole, and super be done with it. They have super glands for this. They are super.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111RNZDY/
EDIT: Super!
We used one from home depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-4-in-Junction-Box-R5133709/202043437 , but we had 4 solar panel wires coming in. If you have only 2 wires coming in, you can probably go with something smaller.
Amazon has some options too. Here is one for 2 wires only.
https://smile.amazon.com/BougeRV-Waterproof-Weatherproof-Project-Trailer/dp/B07GDH2TTV/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=solar+panel+junction+box+gland&qid=1571884334&sr=8-2
Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.
$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel
$20 Charge Controller from Amazon
$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good
$11 Battery to inverter cables
$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery
$14 12V LED lights
$5 light wiring
$6 Switch
$38 Solar Panel Wires
$13 Battery Cables
$16 Conduit Pipe
$17 Unistrut
$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay
Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.
So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.
They are.
Anybody can buy a windmill. Whether you can erect one on your property is a matter of local policy.
100watt panel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4844F4
25ft cable (cut in half)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWNZD16
Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERF0LHA
Mounted my 2 x 100 W panels directly to the roof using some Renogy Z-brackets and Well Nuts (special kind of rubber nut that expands when you screw into it forming an air-tight seal (no leaks as of yet). I also used some 3M VHB tape applied under the brackets for peace of mind (some people swear by using JUST VHB tape alone but it needs to be applied correctly).
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
4x100W Panels
Panel Mounting
Solar Panel Connectors
Tool Crimper
Assembly Tool
Panel Connectors
Power Information
CTEK Charger
CTEK SmartPass
200ah AMG Battery
Fuse Block
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
LED Strip
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
I was concerned about drilling any holes in my roof. Being a born pessimist, I figured if anything can go wrong, it will go wrong. The fewer holes in my roof the better.
I started looking for a roof rack. What I really wanted was a full-length roof rack with a diamond-pattern, "hardware cloth" platform surface upon which to mount my solar panels. All the racks I could find were around $600. Getting a rack custom built was estimated at $1300. Too much.
I finally found a very heavy-duty-looking rack made of black-painted round tubing for $311. "That's more like it," I thought. I ordered it off the internet.
When it arrived, I was annoyed to see that all the parts weren't there. Two long side panels seemed to be missing. I called the vendor, and after a very confusing conversation, it turned out that I had only ordered "half" the rack. The other part number was the side panels. Guess how much they cost? $300. ($611 for the whole rack. Dammit.)
Once I got the whole rack at my house, and started trying to install it, I realized that it's a two-or-three-man job. I finally got it installed, but Lord, what a pain in the ass!
I bolted a piece of 4x8 plywood to the rack tubing using large U-bolts. The PV panels bolt to the plywood.
I feel pretty sure that bolting the panels directly through the roof would work just as well, maybe better.
A really good book that describes solar panel installation is "Photovoltaic Design & Installation for Dummies" by Ryan Mayfield. He is the president of the Renewable Energy Associates solar power company.
A solid wire is called a "wire." A bundle of wires together covered with plastic insulation is called a "cable." You want cables of at least 6 gauge diameter. (The smaller the gauge number, the larger the cable. I know, it seems backwards.) A lot of solar power kits come with 8 gauge or even 10 gauge cable. TOO SMALL. Cable this small is inefficient for DC current, for our purposes.
You will need a "cable gland" (Amazon) and a good quantity of "Dicor self-sealing lap sealant." (Amazon). Be generous with the Dicor. Every time a cable goes through a steel bulkhead or floor you MUST put a grommet of some kind (rubber, plastic) there to protect the cable insulation. If you ground out a positive cable, it could cause a fire. Ground the negative (black) cable of the system TO THE VEHICLE'S FRAME, directly to clean steel (NOT PAINTED STEEL), through the floor. Bolt the ground cable connection securely to the frame. Don't forget the grommet.
https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506480381&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=double+cable+gland&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-WPG8-10-Gauge-Waterproof-Grommets/dp/B00OYGLP32/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1506480517&sr=8-12&keywords=8+gauge+cable+grommet
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-ranging-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency/dp/B01N014USE/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506480598&sr=1-14-spons&keywords=clamp+style+multimeter&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=dp_cerb_2
Always use BLACK cable for the negative (ground) side of the circuit and RED cable for the positive side. This will prevent you from screwing up and short-circuiting your system. Hopefully.
Do not hook up the PV panels until everything else is installed and you have tested it for continuity with a digital multimeter (DMM.) The kind that has a "clamp", automatic ranging, and an audible alarm is best. (It looks kind of like a lobster claw and doesn't necessitate puncturing the insulation of the cables.) You start wiring from the storage battery bank and work backwards to the PV panels. Keep in mind--if those panels are exposed to the sun, they are GENERATING ELECTRICAL CURRENT POTENTIAL. Cover them with cardboard or heavy paper and tape until you are ready to energize the system. You don't want to get electrocuted accidentally. The risk of shock is small, but it does exist.
You need either a fuse (good) or a DC breaker (better) between the positive cable between the PV panels and the charge controller, and also between the charge controller and the battery bank. If you install an inverter, you need a breaker on the positive cable between the battery bank and the inverter. (Inverters burn amps just sitting there hooked up. You need to be able to "turn off" the DC power supply to the inverter. Turn the power to the inverter back on to use it.)
https://www.amazon.com/MidNite-Solar-Photovoltaic-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B004EQK8SA/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506481155&sr=1-7&keywords=DC+breaker
Try to make the cable runs as short and direct as possible, within reason. The longer the cable run, the more resistance and the more voltage drop. All cables should be secured to the bulkhead with cable clamps in a neat, tidy, workmanlike fashion. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing correctly.
Auto Transfer Switch
48v inverter is powering two ubiquiti 60 watt switches for POE Access points in the house same with the 12v it goes to modem, router, ubiquiti security gateway and a ubiquiti cloud access.
Inverter is questionable. If I was doing things that are critical and I couldn’t switch back to main I think i would spend double and get named brand. This is cheapest of some known quality I could find on eBay :)
It has handled the max of the compressor in the deep freezer starting which is 1020 watts but only for a very short time then max is like 200 watts for months now. So untested at capacity currently. Was going to try an portable AC next which should test it a bit more.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
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This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.
 
I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
 
This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.
If you really want to try out a goal zero product check out sams club. I can't say you'll be able to reproduce it since my local stores didn't have any. But i was home visiting the parental units the sams club had the goal zero switch 10 for $30.81. I thought about making a post about it on the preppers sales forum but its so YMMV.
Model I'm talking about. https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Switch-Recharger-Multi-Tool/dp/B00OLINB12/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504915709&sr=8-5&keywords=goal+zero
I misspoke - I ordered both an adapter AND extension:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB8DCT9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_7qoMDb6NEDR94
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7VBKQG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_SsoMDb89F18J6
Hope that helps! :)
Agree. My God I am sick of some pohliticians being anti wind or solar. It's too expensive they say. We need to stop incentivizing it! Not cost effective. Coal is so much cheaper.
To your point about the progress we've made: 20 years ago if I wanted to put a wind turbine on my property...well I couldn't first of all. Not enough room. But if I did have the room it would cost me $40 grand including the labor of 3 or 4 guys to put it up. Minimum.
Today I can buy a turbine and install it in under an hour https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RQ5Q17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_62cNBbS7S6WTF
Nope...no progress to be seen here. Move along.
Of the two charge controllers you've picked, the cheap one is actually a far better choice for what you want to do.
You want to get a charge controller that lets you run the load through it, and is programmable with either a timer or an adjustable low voltage disconnect. That way you can set it up to run the pump when the sun is shining or when the battery has plenty of charge. The Renogy will only control the charging, so you could find yourself with a very flat battery if you don't add in something else to control discharging.
If you want a branded version of the cheap charge controller, check out this one (but it's basically the same thing).
If you want something with similar features but better quality and functionality you could try this EPsolar controller plus this PC cable and temp sensor.
I rock the Goal Zero solar panel charger kit.
They're pricey, but it was a birthday gift so... that's cool. But yeah, you basically charge the sticks with the solar panel, then you can detach them and they hold that charge for like a month or 5 or something. Toss the stick(s) in your bag, and you're ready to recharge your phone whenever.
That's awesome! This is the mppt I bought
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XHCT5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_WkSxDb1DYWR70
But you can get away with something cheaper it's just less efficient like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVZ777D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cmSxDbVT7JSZ4
Then you just need a 12v pump and a 12v battery
I had to use an inverter because I was too lazy to buy a 12v pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJ1DN6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NoSxDbYYFW55Q
Oh and you'll need cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7VBKQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qnSxDbFFHQHFY
Let me know if you have questions!
If you build it well, it will be safe. :)
Just use fuses and / or breakers where appropriate.
If you live in a cold climate, insulate your battery box so it doesn't freeze.
Also, if you use AGM batteries, they are usually fine indoors. I wouldn't keep flooded batteries indoors though, they outgas too much for my comfort.
I always vent my indoor battery boxes to outside regardless of type though, just for extra safety.
Solar panels from Amazon are generally good, read the reviews though for each seller / item.
If they're still selling them, I can recommend the Newpowa brand as far as '12 volt' panels are concerned. Have two of those, and two HQST ones; the Newpowa branded ones outperform the others by a small bit. :)
Monocrystaline panels are more efficient space wise, more watts per sq. ft. Used most in mobile installs because they offer the best use of the limited space on say, a vehicle roof.
If you have enough space though, the Polycrystaline will be less expensive per watt on average.
What's your budget like, and how much power do you need total? I'm not sure how much you want to spend on the system, so for now I'll just recommend a 'middle of the road' unit.
If you need 500 watts or less total, I'd recommend one of EPsolar's Tracer 4215BN units:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YCI48F4/
You'll also need the remote to monitor / configure it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YAB0UVO/
You also should grab the battery temp sensor for it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016RU8JUY/
Hey, thanks!
I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:
I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.
For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.
I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:
The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
Hope that helps! :)
Get this https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Double-Solar-Motorhomes-Caravans/dp/B00KV1PFS0 and then Dicor sealant around the edges.
Nice van!
Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.
Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY
This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)
Other items I used...
Solar gland?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111RNZDY
I just got done installing my panels and went with one of these entries: http://amzn.to/1rXdZsB. I drilled a 1" hole, primed the bare metal, put a 1" grommet in the hole to keep it from cutting my wires, cleaned the paint around the hole, put down VHB tape, stuck the thing I mentioned a second ago down on the tape, then used some Dicor around the perimeter to seal it all up.
So far it's working great and has survived a few days of rain with no leaks.
This is what I bought for my setup. The costs have gone up, but that one panel can fill a couple of batteries without any problems.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPSCET2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JH1PABW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060YHLJS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RCJB62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFERZKO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWZ3LXPHZK09
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDZE33E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24WV2YRRJEBAG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A05654602L3XUQ70M87BV
Rereading this I'm realizing it comes off as really broad and not a productive question. What I mean to say is that I want to embed a solar wire in my insulation for the possibility of future use but I want to make sure it'll be able to handle the setup I'd probably use (100 or 200w of panels, 1 or 2 125ah batteries). I'm thinking awg 10 wire like that in the link below. Is that a pretty safe bet? Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FWNZD16/ref=pd_aw_vtph_86_bs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QQXTCPYGD68E795VFJQ
Is that this X2?
http://smile.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-VMAX-Rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00DDYM1UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405392502&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+155ah
I have 2 of the 125AH batteries and they are great....
I used two of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDYM1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TpCJAb5SDC8P4
It’s been more than enough for my needs. FYI - /r/vandwellers is more active than this sub. My favorite place for van info is the forum on cheaprvliving.com
Thank you for the response :)
There’s a couple reasons why I wanted to keep them separate. My sister and her husband have a camper as well, and if they are separate systems I can borrow one out. Or use one to charge my electric canoe’s battery.
If I wanted to hook both up simultaneously to a single or double battery bank, would it damage it?
Also are these the norm for wiring in parallel? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q26PC04/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?psc=1
So if I do keep them separate I should look into a 20amp version of an EPever correct? I’ll have to do some research on the negative or positive ground for my camper. Is that referring to the grounding coming off the battery terminal? I’m assuming all RV batteries are grounded to the frame. Mine is being delivered from Iowa, so not here physically yet :(
That looks like something you'd build into an RV. If I wanted an all-in-one solar generator/battery with an inverter output (sticking with the same brand), I might try this one. Emphasis on might. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K60N1DQ/ref=emc_b_5_t
My present battery is a Suaoki solar generator (~200Wh) with a separate (Suaoki, foldable, 60W) solar panel. Total price was about $320. I already had a Behringer MPA40BT-Pro. So I have a good, loud enough battery powered speaker. That setup easily does me several hours at camp without a need to recharge.
Buy wind turbines from Amazon and find out who the crazy, shadow obsessed neighbours are.
https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=pd_cp_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0111RNZDY&pd_rd_r=EKHR6Y5N0NVKJF614FB2&pd_rd_w=9YXfC&pd_rd_wg=V6sqE&psc=1&refRID=EKHR6Y5N0NVKJF614FB2
This plus a shit ton of dicor over the holes that YOU HAVE TO DRILL (sorry)
I like this one better because it has the lip around the edge that you can put a few screws into
It's that or run it through the open window
Get an UPS and connect a big battery to it
That looks like an MC4 pin in which case you need an MC4 Crimper
Nah, home wind is really really cheap, it's cheaper than solar, and everyone is installing solar.
For example, a 380W solar panel is $185 where a 400W wind generator is $175 (and for both of them, that's excluding the HW to connect it to your house, so that's a fair comparison).
Wind generates power all day long and is not affected by time of day, and going by this wind consistently has a higher power factor than wind. So in my example it makes more power for less money. That's why utility scale wind is more common than utility scale solar, it's cheaper all around. But homes install solar, not wind.
I think the reason you see the difference is entirely due to zoning. Nobody cares if you add 4 inch tall black solar panels on your black roof (well some people care, but they can't prove harm or anything, so it's generally legal). To do the same with wind you're talking installing a 100 foot tall tower in your back yard that towers over the trees. It sticks out a lot in a residential area, conflicts with existing laws against installing towers, and makes noise as it is a moving thing. It's easy to prove harm with wind, and it's much more intrusive than solar. That's why you don't see it, simply not legal to install even though it is much cheaper.
You know you can just make these rather easy.
$20 tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFUW3LY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just need wire and MC4 connections. I don't know why you'd buy something off the shelf for what should be a custom wire.
​
Otherwise just buy some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-10Ft-Adaptor-Female-Connectors/dp/B00JH1PABW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2OZIJKXVSLBMJ&keywords=mc4+extension+cable&qid=1555547882&s=gateway&sprefix=mc4%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-3
here on Amazon, only caveat is they are designed for solar panels which for some reason are opposite of standard connections so if you he these red is - and black is + it took me way too long to figure that out 🤣
I'd like to get myself one of these. Once it goes on sale for >$500.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K60N1DQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I345XWR1F13NZU&colid=3EAESHB6ACZCG