Best terrarium heat mats according to redditors

I really hope that child is never left alone with an animal or another child. At least not till he's been through some very rigorous psychological evaluations. Your story is heart-breaking.

I don't know much about rat physiology, but if he's been hanged and almost drowned he may have suffered oxygen deprivation and now have mental damage, in addition to all the emotional damage. I say this only as a caution when introducing him to other rats. You should definitely see if he'd like company though I imagine he'll be very timid and cautious at first, even with another rat. But in addition to the previous comments you should watch for limits on his capacity as a result of the oxygen deprivation.

You could also give him a heating pad. It was mentioned here a few weeks ago as a good thing for sick ratties, but it might be very comforting for him to have something warm but less scary than another rat to snuggle with.

K&H makes an outdoor weathersafe thin hard plastic mat that heats based on applied weight. It doesn't get Hot, just warm enough. They're used mostly in small rabbit and chicken farms, but can also be used for cats and hamsters, etc. And it's safe to put a thin layer of cloth over it.

I don't work for K&H. (I know I sound like a sales bot.) I have an outdoor cat that's been through winters before. This is what I got for her on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NVC7DO It has lasted 2 winters so far with no problems. Best of luck with your new little friends! I'm sure they'll.. Warm Up to you quickly.

pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.

you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)

same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)

if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things

so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.

i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.

Her tank is okay right now. That’ll be a money burner upgrade. I usually do 40 gals or 40 gal breeders but the dimensions sound fine. Sometimes petco or petsmart do $1/gal deals you could get a new tank then if you felt like it.

Get her more hides, some foliage and make sure that water dish is large enough that she could almost completely submerge, even if she never does. Here’s a cool looking example. You definitely don’t need to adhere to that level of creativity but you can do a lot with them.

Get a large heat mat and a thermostat. Controlling the temperature like that will save you grief. Sometimes I get heat bulbs to supplement heat but in that case I get ceramic. Don’t get bulbs that show light at night it disturbs the sleeping pattern of the snake. Temps should be 85 F on hot side low to mid 70’s on cool side. Belly temp is a lot more important than having just a lamp. If nothing else, heat mat.

GoHerping is one of my favorite dudes for these types of snakes. Here’s an easy full guide that I trust.

Edit: for cheap hides go to a dollar store and get black plastic pots for plants and cut a hole like a cave. Cheap and easy hide that works well! Just don’t make jagged edges. You can get those for under $5 for multiple, fake suction leaves at petco for $5 each package, thermostat is ~25 ish, lamp and bulb are about ~40ish total, or a pad for about the same

We have this in our cat's cat house outside. It uses about 25 watts, which is FAR less than any space heater will use (the one you linked is 400w). It's much more efficient because it directly heats the animal, instead of heating all the air around them (which inevitably circulates away and loses heat through walls etc.). It won't heat them when they're not lying on it, but in a basement that shouldn't be a problem. I can't imagine it gets that cold down there, and they do have fur, after all.

He looks overall pretty health besides his nub tail. Check out this sub often and you'll see lots of posts about geckos with bad depth perception, etc that will be comforting to know is fairly normal.

• Under tank heater like this one is needed for digestion. Much cheaper to get on amazon than a place like petsmart.
  
  
• For feeding I think it's best to use a separate container for bugs. I use the ones like this. Bugs are gonna poop too, so having them in the gecko tank just makes it need cleaned more. Geckos don't need to hunt and can be pretty bad at it, I usually use tweezers to feed mine. It also lets you make sure your insects are also being fed properly. The cricket food you have is fine for them.
  
  
• I find mealworms are easier to work with than crickets. They don't move much and stay alive easier. Keep them in a tank like mentioned above and give them some carrots once in a while. Mealworms especially, your gecko will probably accidentally eat some sand.
  
  
• I offer mine food every other day as adults. I've gotten to where I can see that look on their face when they want to eat. Sometimes they don't want to so I take the insects back out, and one of mine always wants to eat. I had to put her on a diet.
  
  
• Sand is bad because it can block their intestine if they eat too much of it. If feeding with tweezers and an older one (at least a year) sand isn't as big of a concern. I use the carpet you find in stores. You can take it out and wash it dozens of times. Paper towels over the sand would work pretty well for short term.
  
  
• Coat your feeder insects with calcium powder +D3 for every bug. Leave a tiny dish (I use a gatorade cap) of pure Calcium in the tank for if they need extra. They can tell and will go and lick it if they need it.
  
  
• An easy moist hide box is to take an old plastic take-out box, cut a hole big enough for the gecko to fit, tape the cut edge so it isn't sharp, and keep the top on so it holds moisture. Use coconut husk, vermiculite (if you're comfortable knowing he won't eat any going for bugs, make sure it's pesticide free and all that), or this article has a lot of good ideas. Just add water once in a while to keep it moist.
  
  
• Changes in cares, rearranging tank objects, change of seasons, warmth, etc can change feeding habits. If his tail grows back in better it won't be as big of a deal but with how it is he doesn't really have as much fat reserves. If he's not eating and pooping at least once a week you might think of taking him to the vet. One of mine made a huge egg that got stuck so she didn't eat for a month and started losing weight. Had to do some force feeding.
  
  
• You can use one of those small kitchen scales and track his weight.
  
  
• You might not even notice him shed if he does it quickly, but the most common thing I've seen is it getting stuck on toes. If they can't get it off they can lose their toes. Just a small thing to keep an eye on, and the moist hide would help.

I just added a digital temperature controller to an old analog AC, and now I'm really starting to get my grow room temps and humidity dialed in.

Here's the one I got
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Homebrewing/dp/B07K8MBLSQ


Oh and having an RO filter at home has made life way easier. No more lugging $1 gallons of distilled from the grocery store, now I have unlimited RO and it's only pennies a gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lo-oDbPBMW1A8

Check this out. Plug your heater into it, and set the thermostat of the device to your maximum allowable temperature. Let's say, the heater is set to 78°, and the thermostat controller is set to 82°. The heater will function independently to keep the water at 78° because the controller is providing power. If the heater malfunctions and starts cooking, at 82°, the controller will turn off power to the heater, rendering it unable to boil your tank.

I've never tried wrapping them up. If you try this make sure your holes in the jar lids aren't blocked.

Last winter I did put some in the oven and turned the oven light on. Worked fairly well. You want to put a thermometer in there so you can monitor the temperature. If it get's to warm crack the door just a bit.

This year I have an oil filled electric radiator heater in the grow room. It's only heating one room and it holds it right at 75F while the reset of the house is in the 60-65F. Fruiting chambers are in there. Myc is in an incubator this year and it was worth building.

Don't know if you want to go this far but the best method for colonizing myc in colder temperatures is a Tub-in-Tub incubator. Here's a link to building one:

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17954773#17954773

I have heard of people using a reptile warming pad in an ice chest. I've never done this but don't see why it wouldn't work. Something like this and you may be able to find one at a local pet store:

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm%C2%AE-Under-Heater/dp/B0002AQCKA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1417729649&sr=1-2&keywords=reptile+heater+mat

Once again monitor your temps. If it gets too hot crack the top. If it's still too much put the heater in a cardboard box instead (not insulated as well). Play around with it and find a combination that works.

I also saw one for less than $6.00, it was 5 watts, I would think that would be enough inside an ice chest and it's got free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Heating-Adjustable-Temperature-Amphibians/dp/B00MEBH4KC/ref=sr_1_12?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1417730123&sr=1-12&keywords=reptile+heater+mat

I've bought 4 of THESE. So far, so good.

I have two heating pads on the bottom of Renault’s tank, a high wattage (~17W) at the hot end and a low wattage (~10W?)in the middle. Both are thermostatically controlled though, with sensors inside the tank under the carpet and on the glass, so they kick on and off at preset temperatures to maintain the temperature gradient, and don’t let the carpeting get above a very safe temperature.

With that said, I think that might be overkill; the low wattage one simply cant get the floor too hot, and the bigger one even running full time during the day might not either. Possibly better safe than sorry.

This was the thermostat I chose; Century Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don’t know if they’re well respected or not; one of mine arrived dead, the other was fine. I popped the case off the dead one and re-soldered the resistor that wasn’t done right at the factory (I was in a hurry and didn’t want to faff about with a return) which fixed it. I will say they seemed well designed (very simple, but nice component choice) and that one resistor notwithstanding, well put together.

Slow money is better than no money! :)

​

Sorry for the delayed response. Here's some of my recommendations:

Jumpstart/Century Pulse Thermostat - $17 - Super reliable and cheap!

Slightly cheaper 'Repti Zoo' Pulse Thermostat - $16 I've had this one previously, the brand was different but it's the same model. I'd only choose this over the jumpstart if you are forced to - due to stocking issues etc.

- I can't seem to find many of the ones that we have in the UK on the Amazon US site, but Id' 100% recommend the jumpstart.

​

Also, you're gonna need two of them. I've heard of people using this product here ($36) to control two at once. Might be worth looking in to :-)

Hello everyone,

Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).

I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...

...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.

At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).

Concerns:

Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).

When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.

1. Is the moisture collecting at the base of the tank a problem?
   
   
2. Is it normal for a hognose to spend time buried and feeling "anti-social" when first moved to a new environment?
   
   
3. Is this substrate okay? I only read after purchasing the ReptiChip that hognose may prefer shredded aspen.
   
   
4. What's the temperature for the heading pad and lighting area (I see this called a "basking area")? In the link above I see 90 degrees F
   
   
5. I got this thermometer. Is there anything else (humidity checker) that I need to purchase?
   
   Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.

that's what thermostats are for! you can get one here for a decent price. and here's how to set it up. (-:

Assuming your tank dimensions are 48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8 (L x W x H), you’ll be one that is as close to 16 x 12 as possible.

This Fluker’s brand is $26 and 17 x 11:
Fluker's Heat Mat for Reptiles and Small Animals, Large (17 x 11 Inches, 20 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164PW9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQHQBb6SYFDG4

This one is a bit cheaper at $22 and 20 x 8:
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat Mats, Large, 24 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z5O9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPHQBbKV4TKVP

Also, don’t forget a regulator so you don’t overcook your Leo! They are absolutely necessary in my opinion. This is the one I have personally:
Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gMvIYsOQnXKH1


These are not affiliate links; I’m not being paid. We also have an amazing guide pinned to the top of this subreddit that you should check to make sure you’re not missing anything.

There's one linked in the wiki: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000NVC7DO/wabbi-20

Also heat sources should be regulated, just thought of that. I use these: Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CmqhDb9DC0KDT
If it's a heat mat, place the probe on the glass above the mat. If it is a heat light, place the probe inside their warm side hide. You can also use a light dimmer for lamps.

Sounds like my ball python when I got her. :) She was pretty tame from day one, I love her <3

I used this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411928401&sr=8-1&keywords=heating+pad+small+animal
Idk if it will ship to canada in the mean time grab some hand warmers for a quick fix lots of blankets lamps directly shining on him maybe just turn up the temp in the house a little bit....

The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s9TUCb1WZ3HE7 i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.

You could try giving him a bath! That might help. Also please avoid lights. They can eventually hurt your baby’s eyes! Only use heating pads. The pinned post on this sub goes into detail about thermostats, (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM this is the one I use) and you need one to regulate the temperature your heat pad gets to so your Leo doesn’t get too hot or cold.

(the pinned post is full of info and absolutely everything you’ll need to know/purchase to give your guy a happy and healthy life 😊)

Edit if you knew all of this already I’m super not trying to sound condescending, just trying to throw out some tips!!

You need the CHE on a thermostat not a timer. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vNOSBb4AW0Y8J

Note that I haven't used this exact one, so can't speak on its quality. The wattage just depends on how big of an area it needs to heat and by how much.

Most people recommend ball pythons, cornsnakes and kingsnakes (and those all are good choices), however it's ultimately up to you! For example, I got a red tail boa constrictor as my first snake and I've only seen one person recommend them as beginner snakes. And honestly, I was glad I got my boa, he's such a sweetheart and his care is very similar to a ball pythons, just on a bigger scale! Plus he's a reptilian garbage disposal, so I don't have to worry about him skipping meals.

I've also seen breeders recommend ratsnakes and gopher/bullsnakes because their husbandry is very easy and they're typically very good eaters. While they're known to be a little temperamental, regular handling will calm them down pretty quickly. I've also seen Kenyan sand boas and children's pythons reccomended, plus they usually don't get too big, and all the snakes I've mentioned come in various morphs so it would be fairly easy to find one thats to your liking!

Snake Discovery, Clint's Reptiles and Josser's Jungle are a very good start! They upload educational videos and they're extremely helpful with information and helping you decide what snake is good for you.

As for getting the actual snake, never buy from large chain pet stores. Always try to get them from a reliable breeder, and the best way to do that is reptile expos! You'll be able to find a bunch of different morphs of various species and you can get supplies and food for pretty cheap.

Another thing to keep in mind is the lifespan and the supplies they need. Bigger snakes need bigger terrariums which cost more, need bigger meals, etc. You will also need a heat mat or heat tape that's connected to a thermostat regardless of species. snakes are kinda dumb and will continue to sit on a warm spot even if it burns them, so thermostats are a must! I use this thermostat for all 3 of my snakes and it works great!

And don't forget to do lot's of research! Look into the snake species itself, it's temperature and humidity requirements, the tank/tub size, and whether or not there are any breeders or expos nearby! Anyway, I hope this helped in some way, and good luck!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164PW9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

This is what we use, and it actually got too hot so we got a slide switch to use with it. Granted we live in NC so it doesn't get terribly cold. we use the large size and just keep it underneath the tub btw.

OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.

Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)

Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O

If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.

Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.

When my girl Wampa was getting old, I put her in a 1-level habitat (she fell in the regular 3-level and hurt her hindquarters) with a plastic bottom. Then I got an under-tank heater that's actually for reptiles, and put it underneath half the habitat so she could have a heated floor, but also move away to the unheated side if she got too warm. (It was important to have something that could be underneath the outside of her old-lady cage because she was definitely a chewer.) She loved it and almost never left the heated side.

Almost exactly like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leo-Terra-Reptile-Reptiles-Tortoise/dp/B07P8XG79M/

I wouldn't recommend using one of the soft heating pads meant for human muscle relaxing - they actually make cage heating pads for exactly this purpose! they are safe to be left plugged in for long periods of time, and the soft ones are not. I had one of these under my ham's cage for a long time.

i'd say too cold. you can also get an inexpensive seed mat for about $13 USD & Temp controller For $19 to help keep the heat up. Cooling require a fridge/mini fridge (withoutf freezer) and a cooling controller which costs a lot more.

I tend to ferment in 2 places. 1. my laundry room in the winter (because it's usually cold due to dryer vent / begin on exterior wall), and 2. My bathroom in the summer which has AC and is generally kept cool.

That being said.. As other have mentioned, warm yeast make off flavors, cold yeast just stop working and may go dormant. You're better off going cold and re-pitching / warming up than getting bad flavor where you toss your product because it's not good.

This is very nice of you.

If you don't mind spending about $25, this is an excellent heating pad: http://amzn.com/B009P93TWI.

It doesn't need batteries or a power source, it's heated in the microwave and stays warm till the morning. You could leave it out in the shelter you made, the cat will thank you.

Of course, if he/she isn't fixed, you might find it having kittens in the very box!

Oh that’s what I meant, I have this one on its way

TANK + HUMIDITY- I think the tank is fine, I have my baby in a tank with a fogger that is set with a hydrotherm humidity and temp control. That mixed with a substrate that locks in moisture is perfect. Just dampen some paper towel and put on little less than half of the screen will help lock the moisture.

SUBSTRATE- looking at the one you have now is good, or if you want somthing more interesting what I do is mix coconut fiber with forest floor to get different textures for my snake. Not needed but always good. They both come in attached bags as a bundle. (Do boil before using to get rid of any bacteria)

LIGHTS- It is winter where I am so the days are ridiculously shorter. So a UBV light is necessary (for winter) to get the day/night cycle regular. Otherwise if they have some light in the room naturally lit by a window it will be ok with just that. But keep in mind it is winter if that affects the sun where you are.

HEATING- bottom tank heaters are a MUST and a Thermostat for them are a MUST. Bottom tank heaters get extremely hot and can burn your snake, set it to 90 degrees. Having digital thermometers at each end of the tank is a very good idea to know the thermal gradient. Ball pythons need a 80 degree ambient temp, if you find it hard to reach I'd get a ceramic bulb attached to a thermostat to insure its reached. A timer will be needed to turn it down at night for night cycles. A temp gun is also really handy if you cant figure out what the temps really are.

COMFORT/DECOR- It looks a little sparce in there, adding clutter such as branches or leaves with make moving around more comfortable and fun for your noodle.

BRANDS I USE AND TRUST.

Reptifogger-
https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptile-fogger-terrarium/dp/154856?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtP_iBRDGARIsAEWJA8gsbQwYjXS0TPoY4HEuda3Nojf1_kQ04L5T9TcQxR8aLUwnAk4UzzsaAgmzEALw_wcB

Thermostat-
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/2421032572734622130_17130946698352747625_1218855?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt&gtim=CMLV2q3mltjfuAEQmo2BpKjnmbn1ARiwq-8MIgNVU0QogNS34wUwp7JK&utm_campaign=1218855&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtP_iBRDGARIsAEWJA8gIg15q_VYFwOIY9ak6TMwGVU4WmH5a23XbLeya7j8yzRVd5DdWI3IaAvPdEALw_wcB

Thermostat with timer-
https://www.amazon.com/Creepet-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Germination/dp/B07L5DX88S/ref=asc_df_B07L5DX88S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309839853592&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8862487564019235064&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019054&hvtargid=pla-625334679725&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60444697623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309839853592&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8862487564019235064&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019054&hvtargid=

No one is a true expert so do plenty of research of theres too many comments saying different things. I have opinions based on experience so I may be wrong on some things. I'm still learning everyday and it's a cool thing. :) good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=heat+mat&qid=1567709698&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT1RKTEFWSk1MUkdYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU3ODgwMUlJSzBRSklUMDlRRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODg2NjE0MTE0OFdDOU9XQklROSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I suggest at least this ^ for your heat pad. You have to be very careful with them. Mine would get up to 120 degrees if it wasnt regulated with this. You set the temp for their warm side and put one of their hides over it. My girl doesnt go in there often cuz she prefers her cool hide. I keep warm side at 90 cuz she wouldnt even go in there with anything warmer. Her gradient is 79 to 90. Ambient temp is usually around 80. She has eaten every week I've had her (2 months).

The nice folks at this reptile shop made the heat wrap. They installed the connectors for an extra buck. My wrap is 12 inches wide and 4 feet long. Here is a link. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/thg-heat-tape-3.html

I have it plugged into a temp controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They require 88f minimum on the cool side, ideally 90f for proper digestion. Since they're cold blooded they rely on the temperatures in their environment to do basic metabolic functions such as digest. So I'd recommend grabbing an under tank heater, a thermostat to control it, and maybe a decent little thermometer, sounds like you're using a wall dial that can be tough to read and are always inaccurate. Getting the temperatures right is really important for keeping reptiles, otherwise they can get sick or worse quickly, but luckily once you have those temps set they're easy to maintain. Woudl recommend just double checking the link under "basic care" down on our side bar, it can fill you in on a bit more like the calcium supplements they need as well. If you have any questions let me know! I'm going to add a few links to the items I'm mentioning

https://www.reddit.com/r/leopardgeckos/comments/9qig1m/gecko_belly_ive_had_my_gecko_about_two_weeks_and/

https://www.amazon.com/Century-T7-FBA_BNQ-T7H-Thermostat-Germination/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265142&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=reptile+thermostat&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265132&sr=8-6&keywords=reptile+thermometer

Thank you for responding! I really want to know what I can do to help my snake, as I've been worried something is wrong..... I made a list with the exact things that I have bought!

I have this terrarium

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N9LRCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this heating mat on one half (covers around 40% of the tank)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X8WLYD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with this thermometer that controls the heat (max is 93 F) and cool side is 75-80

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and i made a humidity box (as shown by Youtube account SnakeEncounters) with this moss that I spray to make humid- I have seen my snake in there twice now, she likes to sleep there for a couple hours and leave.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CX5QB82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I use this hide (one on cool side, one on warm side)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVKJ3B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bedding

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KJ0A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I use these vines to make the enclosure feel more covered and less "open"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YEB70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is possible. Reading through the comments in this post, I see that you just got your noodle. Congrats!

But that as well will play a huge factor. Little friend is stressed out. Just give it a solid week of no touching and no feeding attempts. After that give it another go.

As for the temp. I’ll give you some basic:

-Coconut shedding substrate (replace after a week so that your snake gets comfortable to its surroundings first)
-Thermometers/hygrometer at the bottom of the tank
-Plug the headpad into a thermostat

After your new friend has eaten;

-moisten the new coconut substrate by mixing water into it and mixing it all up with your hands. Leaving dry substrate under its hides. This will be great to help with humidity, which you will see if your house humidity isn’t high, will be a struggle.

My house has an average of about 44, so I have to mix my substrate about every 2 days. I’m going to be looking into other options down the road, as I have done all the home remedies and mixing is my best option.

Hope all of this helps!

Short answer: yes temp and humidity will affect your snakes feeding 🐍 🐁 lol


Edit: replace substrate after a week from today I meant. Not once a week.

Edit two: a chill mod in here once told me to cover the top screen with tin foil while mixing the substrate. Best tip ever. Plus if you do it right, it looks nifty. Just make holes for your heat lamp and ventilation. It’ll take some time to perfect. But not long. Kay I’m done now

Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-j6ZCbDTX6S1R

But if this is a concern then putting it on the side is equally as dangerous if the hamster sleeps pressed against the side of the tank/cage (which seems more common than ones that dig below all their layers of bedding to sleep flush with the bottom).

I would assume most hamsters would move if they are uncomfortable - the important part is ensuring they have somewhere safe and comfortable to move to if they become too warm.

Regardless, OP should make the call based on their ham's sleeping habits and cage placement. If he has a tendency to burrow below all the bedding, then maybe place it on the side.

I'd also suggest getting pads made specifically for small animals. For example, this one has a lot of positive reviews from hamster owners: https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Products-Animal-Outdoor-Heated/dp/B000NVC7DO/

You might look into heating mats or submersible heaters commonly used for reptile terrariums and aquariums. The submersible ones need to be in water, but that could even just be a jar of water or a small tray, at the low wattage being discussed.

This heating pad controller for reptile enclosures (not endorsed, it was just the first one to come up for my search) has a temp sensor and thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/

At low wattages, you can even use something like a 40W incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch.

For mini-fridge size enclosure, even 40W will get things very hot - I think even 5-10W, with a thermostat, will get you a lot of heat in an enclosed space.

i have one of those HF 2 stage pumps hooked up to a diy chamber made from a steel pot and acrylic lid heated by this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382821961&sr=8-1&keywords=bunny+heat+mat which keeps a nice temp when insulated

This is the one I got and it's pretty nice.

I just installed these inside my printer. So far, so good. I can keep the FEP and buildplate at a steady 75 degrees in a 45 degree garage.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07573FKSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did have to FDM print an adapter to make it all fit. That's in a Mars. Not sure how it would fit in a Photon.

So I use a ceramic bulb (because I didn't wan't light to mess with the day/night cycle). and I have this automatic thermostat controller which I have set to keep it around 74 in her enclosure. This set up seems to be working well.



Because night time is probably when it's getting cold in your house you'll need a ceramic bulb or another heat bulb meant for nighttime. So the UVB bulb probably isn't worth messing with.

$5 and small size make for quite a nice benefit. I am actually looking at heating elements right now and the 'official' product for homebrewing is $50 (on sale for $30 some places). It's a 25 Watt, 110v heating pad effectively. I got to looking for other heating pads (I like pads as they are low profile) starting with those relating to 3d printing (too powerful), Plant Heaters (too weak), Reptile Heaters (can work!) and personal heaters (Too powerful):

• Homebrew Pad, ~ 11" x 11" - 25W - $30-50
  
• Large Reptile Pad, 8" x 18" - 24W - $25
  
• Different Large Reptile Pad, 11"x17" - 30W - $30 Has 11"x11" 12W version for $20
  
  There are likely others too but looks like a 1 fermenter pad is going to be $20-30 and mostly heat the item above. Heating the air in a fementer is likely the more cost efficient solution even if it takes more space than pads. Edit In relation to heating multiple fermenters in a space. A heating pad can work in a single fermenter mini-fridge if there is a flat surface to set your fermenter on. /edit *

This is the problem hedgie I posted about a few days ago. I bought a new, larger enclosure for him and moved him into today. He was a bit grumpy during the move as I had to wake him up for it, but he's loving the cage so far it seems. The blue "ball" at the bottom of the cage is his hide...which he sleeps under. Underneath it is a pet safe Heating Pad to help regulate temperature in that hiding spot. It's designed for small animals so it only gets up to about 100 F or so (just over human body temp) and is under his bedding to keep him directly off of it. It's been enough to keep him warm in his previous enclosure which is nice. The cage is an Amazon Basics Small Animal Cage, Large which is a bit bigger than the previous enclosure. I've got to clean up his wheel and get it mounted for him, but after that he should be more comfortable than he was before. Hopefully this helps his attitude.

I had a spare reptile heat mat and it works as a perfect decoy. No more sleeping on my new 4K tv!

K&H Pet Products Thermo-Peep Heated Pad Tan 9" x 12" 25W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHK375E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GplXBbVN1RY9R

It would work, however you would want something like this, that has a ethanol compatible glass lid, stainless steel body, and an acceptable compatibility with the silicone sealing gasket.

A ethanol compatible hose would be necessary imo, as rubber will leach into the ethanol. Add a appropriate adapter like this with this , add a few wraps of ptfe plumbing tape on the threads to seal well. Small length of ptfe 3/8” tubing can be placed on the barb tip, wrap with ptfe tape if too loose or heat with a heat gun/blow dryer if too tight to fit.

You then can attach this tubing to your cold trap using the appropriate glass on glass vacuum adapter barb and some heat as ptfe is not flexible cold. That chamber and parts I listed will give you an ethanol compatible vapor path and won’t leach chemicals into your solvent, but make sure clean all parts for any oil/residues before use. I’d also recommend a ptfe diaphragm vacuum pump as some vapors may make it past the trap.

Oh and a small animal heating pad works well with a vac chamber and will handle 24/7 use no problem. You will need to gently sand the surface flat for proper contact with a vac oven though.

What do you call needlessly expensive?

You'd have to make sure it was an appropriate voltage for where you are, but $4 or $5 USD doesn't seem like a huge amount.

Not that cheap, mains powered heating mats from China are going to be safe by default though.

$2.50 USD for a 5V/USB 3.75W heater doesn't seem too expensive though, even if you have to buy two, and improves the odds of the parts you might touch remaining at a sensible voltage.

edit: Although, if it were me, I'd probably put a fuse inline with the 5V one, just because it probably is on the junky side for something that's potentially going to be powered for long periods or continuously.

The heat pad should be under the tank on the bottom to give some belly heat. Leopard geckos digest their food using belly heat so it would really help him out. The heat pad should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the cage as well. Make sure to have a thermostat with the heat mat as well so it doesn't over heat your gecko! The one I use is this one and it's been working fantastic with no issues. I have the probe located in the spot where the gecko would lay down and when the temperature reaches the degree I've set it to, it'll shut off the mat allowing it to cool down and then it'll heat back up.

This is what you need to heat a colony

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Komodo-Advanced-Heat-Mat-276x274mm/dp/B00B99OU9S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510267498&sr=8-2&keywords=Heat+mat&dpID=51rtaiFSAjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And it'll cost just over a dollar a month to run. Put it up against the side of your container.

In terms of grain/water. Buy chicken feed for the grain and https://www.amazon.co.uk/Miracle-Gro-Moisture-Control-Pots-Baskets/dp/B00187ZAUO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510267884&sr=8-2&keywords=water+crystals+for+plants for your water needs. I have a 3 litre bottle full of water gel sealed and it lasts for ever and you don't need the full packet (bug gel is the biggest ripoff ever)

This is the thermostat I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TbOBDbQPSF1RG

I saw it recommended on a thread here, so hopefully it’s okay! If need be I’ll go up to something fancier, but most people seem to use something along those lines?

This, and I'd use this with something like one of these to produce heat: https://www.amazon.com/Windspeed-plug110V-Heating-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01M702S4Z or save a whole watt and use this https://www.amazon.com/iPower-7-Inch-Reptile-Terrarium-Animals/dp/B076FKX9JC or if size is an issue then https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm-Under-Heater/dp/B003NKMEQC

I have a pump switch that is in an unheated area outdoors and when it gets below zero (Fahrenheit) it freezes up and I get no water. So a put a piece of round furnace duct around it and taped up the ends with some of that reflective tape that's used to seal ducts and put one of these heaters on the outside of the duct (I actually got a 7 watt one) and if the switch freezes I just plug it in and in three or four minutes I have water again, or if I know it is going to get that cold I just plug it in and leave it on until the cold spell has passed. I don't think you want to use one in a place that's directly exposed to the elements, but you say your pi is in a waterproof enclosure.

If you don't want to have to manually plug and unplug it, you could maybe build something along these lines to control the power, if you have room, or at least adapt the idea for your needs (I have not tried this, just found it doing a search):

https://twosortoftechguys.wordpress.com/2018/08/13/how-we-made-a-raspberry-pi-controlled-8-outlet-power-box/

You would not need eight outlets; one or two would likely be sufficient. I have not (yet) done anything like this for my pump switch heater because I really only use it once or twice a winter.

Would something like this UTH
work?? I know his current set up is coming with one but its small so I know I'll need to upgrade. I'm hoping if I use a tub I will be able to use a UTH for heating alone

Purchase a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat mat. I prefer this style but there are lots of different ones out there. In fact I recommend getting one anyway as they are an important safety feature to prevent temperature spikes.

All you need is the slow cooker and a temperature control unit like this one or if your mechanically inclined the ITC-1000, and plug in the controller then plug the slowcooker into the controller then set the controller to desired temp and walk away.

But remember, you don't want the auto slowcooker. You want one like this with just a 3 way dial.

I set my slowcooker to low and the ITC-1000 to 112° for 5 hours, remove the yogurt and stick in the fridge.

You’ll have to figure that out once it’s set up. It would work well on the hot side but if the cool side is too cold with nothing over there I would center it. That’s the thing I need to tweak but haven’t yet since I’m going to have to remake my custom lid. Lamp currently on the hot side but my cold side is like 5 degrees too cold. Not a huge deal but something I’ll need to get around to. Like I said trial and error id just buy all your heating elements and then spend a day messing around with temp and placement. Also this is a good cheap controller for the heat mat if you don’t have one yet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r3e2CbAWWY9ZY
Just make sure the temp probe goes between the mat and glass

Mini Fridge + Freezer

Temp Regulator

I use this with the standard zoo med or exoterra UTHs on three leopard gecko tanks and two snake tanks and have had good temperature accuracy with it

Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qPpvCb49PSBWM

This is the thermostat we use to control the heat, we have it connected to a regular ceramic heat lamp

I have this which I used to use with my rats. It's sort of medium-warm, nothing that ever gets too hot. But it's warm enough that it's only comfortable if you put fleece cover on it. The mat and about 2ft of cord are really chew-safe.

I'd also look into getting supplements for your bun...just cause she's older the cold may make her joints ache. Oxbow sells some, I've seen them at pet stores. They are little timothy treats that have supplements for age, health, etc.

What do you feed her currently? You could try giving her a bit of alfalfa to gain weight. That way she will have some built-in insulation :)

If it's that insanely cold inside I would use a 100w CHE in conjunction with 11 inch heat tape spanning the length of the bottom of the tank, possibly two strips side by side, controlled by a reptile thermostat with a temperature probe taped down in the tank directly over the heat tape on the bottom. That way you have a safe sustained temperature throughout the tank and the CHE can be used by your bearded dragon to effectively thermoregulate himself without needing to worry about cold spots.

​

Heat Tape

Heat Tape Power Cord

Thermostat for the Heat Tape

We use this one for the heat pad, you set it at the temp you want and it turns the heating pad on and off depending on if it gets too cool or too hot.

And then we use this one just to monitor visually the temp and humidity of the environment. So far we’ve had no issues and they’re both fairly inexpensive.

Good luck with everything!

If your in the US i recommend buying this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=jumpstart+thermostat+reptile&qid=1570753836&sprefix=jumpstart+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMktDVDVZRk9GUDcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5ODc4MjcyUlpSWDNFTzQyUFFCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjMyOTIyMkdLQlpNSllCTEZRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= and plugging in the under tank heater and setting it to 90-91 so you wont have to worry about the heat. Still always check that the high temp is around the number uou set it to but i notice that sometimes it can slowly get lower than what you set it to but then right back where it needs to be.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_edhYDb7408N40

This is what I use

Will one of these work as a thermostat for a CHE? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqFXDb0BTJFVP if I put the probe somewhere near the top?

Scroll to the bottom and "Add all three to cart"