Best test probes & leads according to redditors

These are your best friends when testing ground faults. It also free your hands

Coreboot, a free(as in freedom) bios. It also makes your Thinkpad boot up much faster. That isn't a "car jumper wire", it is a SOIC 8 clip for flashing the bios chip, i used a raspberry pi as the spi flasher, but a bus pirate can also be used.

Great question!! I actually just posted instructions on how to make the stands over in a comment on /r/synthesizers ... here is the link.


As for the Cable management, I am using a Pomona Test Lead Holder found on Amazon here.

We have these in our college labs: https://www.amazon.com/Pomona-Holder-Slots-Black-Diameter/dp/B0000WU3U0

They are simple, but great. Seems like it would meet all of your criteria.

Feel invested to find it now! Requires 2 parts from what I find. The adapter for the probe connection and then the clamp.

UEi Test Instruments ATTPC3 Pipe Clamp Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9N5NXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RFeDDb11Y961F

https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-Temperature-Adapter/dp/B00EPZTWC8

If you already have a decent charger, just pick up an XT90 to banana charger adapter.

commonly called pogo pins

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15032300ux0374-P50-E2-0-68mm-16-55mm/dp/B00X7C8PGE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=27HXHBIOG1CH7&keywords=pogo+pins&qid=1574092102&s=electronics&sprefix=pogo+pi%2Celectronics%2C311&sr=1-5

Haha! Yeah, thanks. I built it with a tripod mic stand I wasn't using and got the orange Pamona Test Lead Holders and an appropriately sized clamping collar to keep it at the right height and still be able to spin it around to access cables on all four sides.

Metal spring test probe

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPQ6ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_duXBCbK18TPKE

CPT-063 Test Clip SOIC8 Pomona 5250

Put some salt in the water. 2-3 teaspoons per cup of water.

10 minutes is plenty for me...

https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-WG-026-Pieces-Colors-Alligator/dp/B06XX25HFX/

I feel like this is the equivalent of taking a pair of alligator clips on the plug of the thing you want to plug in and hooking them to two paperclips and shoving them in the socket.

Here, I found where you can get 5 adapters for only $10.27

https://www.amazon.com/SE-TL10-10-Piece-Alligator-Clips/dp/B0002KRABU

https://www.amazon.com/ACCO-Paper-Clips-Economy-Non-skid/dp/B001B0D5T6

You'll want to invest in some alligator clips like these to make your life easier: https://www.amazon.com/SE-TL10-10-Piece-Alligator-Clips/dp/B0002KRABU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519111473&sr=8-3&keywords=alligator+clips

And maybe a visit to https://www.taydaelectronics.com/ to find switches and knobs and things. You can also harvest these from old, busted electronics you find here and there. Getting started is more of an art than a science - you start touching things to other things and see what happens. Good luck!

Clips!

It's on my Add-On wishlist!

cowpox

Thanks for the contest!

Something like this and lengths of wire from the shops scrap wire bin plus my DMM is what I used.

From the reviews, this is the one people consider the best:

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https://www.amazon.com/CPT-063-Test-Clip-SOIC8-Pomona/dp/B00HHH65T4/

Sorry we did not get you there. I was really hoping we would be able to resolve the issue for you.

Things you might try:

If you have M/F Dupont(jumper) cables take the large ESP off the breadboard, take the shield (also off the bread board) and attempt to hold the 3 cables directly to the metal holes on the shield. (d4 on shield, d2 on ESP, with code set to 2) - by using D2 on the ESP you work around the issue I have been talking about.

I am personally using a different code library, It was suppose to work around the D4 issue, but did not. I have not tried any others at this point, but it might be worth a try. https://github.com/beegee-tokyo/DHTesp (if you use this, you need to look at the dht.setup(17, xxxx) and switch it. You can actually change the 17 to D2 or D4 rather then the GPIO number, and it will figure it out. (include D, not just the number)

BTW, I am aware the breadboard is solder-less. What I meant, is you (may) need to solder the header pins to the Mini/shield, otherwise the pins may not be making a connection. I would actually NOT do this, due to the shield being pre-wired to D4, and for ease of use, you will end up wanting to wire it to D2 or other. (then you do not need to reset the DHT, I have not found another fix to this). I am using something similar to: https://www.amazon.com/BrightTea-Single-Electronics-MiniGrabbers-packing/dp/B075G8B7PN/ to make the connections between my shield and mini currently.

I think all are about the same as far as application.

Here some regular ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-MAG1BK-Magnetic-Test-Leads/dp/B01KU9583E/ref=asc_df_B01KU9583E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=270610367741&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1869390421053030995&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026910&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-555819240385&psc=1

And here are some that attach to banana plugs:
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/accessories/probes/fluke-mp1-magnet-probe-1

Yes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FDD4DGK/

Can connect to pins or exposed wire, or PCB holes.

Works really well. And I printed labels for each lead, to make flashing easier.

Mini grabber leads might work well for this. Just hook them in the jumper holes.

Another idea is 2mm miniature banana plugs, but I don't know if those would be small enough to fit in the jumper holes

I would drill holes in a stiff material to line them up to meet your designs specifications, and use something like a "metal test probe pin," or pogo pin, to align the legs individually. I use this method, and it helps me out quite effectively. Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15091500ux0390-P75-E2-Convex-Diameter/dp/B018YPQ6ZK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465361&sr=8-5&keywords=pogo+pins But anything small and cylindrical will do the job of moving the legs of the pot for your needs without compromising the legs enough to break on you. I hope this helps you; it works for me. Cheers

Sure but any 30 awg 0.5mm PVC Insulated wire will do.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/820-Feet-30AWG-Wrapping-Wire-Single-Driver-Tinned-Copper-PVC-Insulation-PCB-Test/392271613038?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180914113649%26meid%3D34faac492d4942cbb273c3dc9d03cdc2%26pid%3D101007%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D392271613038&_trksid=p2047936.c101007.m3226


https://www.amazon.com/Sean-B-30-1000-Colored-Insulation-Wrapping/dp/B07JHVCL74/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?keywords=Pvc+30+awg&qid=1556259152&s=gateway&sr=8-25

It has black, green, red and yellow (yellow substituting for white)

Hope that helps.

I assume you are running it off a CR2032. Not going to happen. You read adafruit's page on powering this thing right?

http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/cr2032.pdf

> Pulse drain of ~6.8mA.

EDIT: Your breadboard has just one issue. You really should solder the screw terminals to that board. I doubt you are going to get a very good electrical connection with the way you have it wired right now. It might work, might make it sound terrible, might not work at all. You can push the wires against the holes for a short term fix, but stuff like that is asking for trouble. You might put some capacitance in parallel with your button to do hardware debouncing. The capacitor would go from pin 2 to ground. The value doesn't matter much and you'll know if it's too small because you won't be debounced. 1n, 10n, 0.1u, 1u are all fine.

Check and make sure your speaker is either 4 or 8 ohms.

While you wait for your battery stuff from Adafruit you can try powering board from a cell phone charger. Don't do this with a USB port on your computer. You will likely either trip a resettable fuse, but you could possibly also damage the USB port drawing as much power as this thing takes. This idea probably won't work with two 4 ohm speakers, but should work with two 8 ohm or one 4 ohm speakers. As to the USB charger you want one that's rated for 5v 2a. From there you just use a wire to connect Vbus (pin 3) and Vin (pin 1).

Last bit of advice I have is use solid wires whenever possible. I pretty much only use stranded jumper wires when I need a female connector on one or both ends. Pull back the rubber boot over one of your alligator clips. If they look like this don't trust them. They're pretty much garbage which is why they are so cheap. The wire gauge is a lot thinner than the insulation leads you to believe. You can make them better by at least soldering the wire to the alligator clips, but really you would want thicker wire. At that point you should just buy good ones. You can get them from Amazon, but it's kind of a rip off. Better to get them from aliX and just be patient on the shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clips-Heavy-Silicone-Jumper/dp/B07L29V4Z2/

I've bought leads from this aliX store before and have had good luck with them:

https://cleqee.aliexpress.com/store/group/Test-Leads/1810103_253379085.html

As to the actual clips I recommend these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32352890876.html

Good luck!

A lot of companies make these kinds of insulation-piercing test probes. They're minimally evasive. You could also poke through the wire with a needle if youre so inclined.

http://www.amazon.com/Wiysond-Insulation-Piercing-Banana-Spring/dp/B013ELVI02/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1451776916&sr=8-13&keywords=fluke+piercing+probe

Take a picture of his tinkering desk... I'll tell you what he's missing. Full disclosure: I have an almost voyeuristic fascination with seeing my fellow EE's tinkering desks.

Without seeing his setup, here's some random guesses:
-oscilloscope (as noted in other replies)
-Pomona cable racks (if he has lots of cables).
-Geeky T-shirts. My favorite is "Never Trust the Autorouter." Bonus points because I think the designer intensionally screen prints it onto awkward-sized T-shirts. I love them... my wife hates them.

OMG I legit have 1st hand experience with this! Much more extreme example:

Pomona 1508/POM Test Lead Holder for Wires Up to .210" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXPSKX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yP8HDb6PNRD6E

Sure enough I made sure to buy 1 and have them shipped in separate orders ironically costing the seller more for shipping separate packages r/maliciouscompliance

Is that the Pomona clip? I am thinking of doing this but with a cheap one I bought from ebay (the black one).

Pomona 5250. It grabs securely. I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHH65T4/

What about these bad boys? Cheap, free shipping and as an added bonus they're in CAD.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FFY2RKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0sRnzbXT89VAB

Sounds like you fixed the problem with defrosting.

The temperature problem you are having may be the refrigerator but it may also be your testing methods or your equipment. I use a Fluke 289 and a Fluke 80PK-25 Type-K Thermocouple into the customers icecream or anything with a large thermal mass in a liquid form. I use a Fluke 80BK-A Thermocouple for oven calibrations.

My dad is an engineer and says RTDs are more accurate but I think this is good enough. My thermocouples are all about a degree off from each other in a glass of ice water. It's within accepted limits for the industry.

also I think this setup is cheap enough to try. The Antenna as you can see is 7.20 and I got alligator clips set for 5.50 the price recently went up you might could get a comparable version for cheaper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRABU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this is what I got but their is others). So you are talking about 14 dollars if you need to get both. Don't waste your money on a cheap shortwave reel. Also the height in my case maybe making the big difference. I tried several setups like putting the wire over the roof but going through the tree and then the swing set really seemed to get good results. So you may need to play around with it and try to find something high like a nearby tree that has some height to it.

The Kaito T-1 antenna uses an optional clip adapter like the Sangean ANT-60. Neither sell the clip separately. Alligator clip test leads will also work.

Yes, I have been doing it for years now. You have to replace the pie pans every once in a while, but I started using rechargeable 6v batteries instead of lantern batteries and they work great.

http://www.amazon.com/Wildgame-Innovations-eDRENALINE-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B004ZWRO30

http://www.amazon.com/Wildgame-Innovations-12-Volt-eDRENALINE-Battery/dp/B002JLE5DG/ref=pd_sim_sg_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SZY8XPBY0N4BRG7QA51

http://www.amazon.com/SE-TL10-Clip-Test-10-Piece/dp/B0002KRABU/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1421290221&sr=1-2&keywords=test+leads

Cable hangers like these are always useful. I've got the one I linked and a 14 slot on the way for eurorack cables, but you may need to go a size larger for 1/4".

This is what I like to use:
https://www.amazon.com/Pomona-4408-POM-Holder-Diameter/dp/B0000WU3U0/

As a bonus after they hang for a while they straighten out.

http://smile.amazon.com/Thermal-Predator%C2%AE-Thermometer-Digital-Temperature-non-contact/dp/B00KI67F5E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412552575&sr=8-3&keywords=thermal+probe

http://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-80BK-A-Integrated-Temperature-Probe/dp/B00116XSMY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412552610&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+probe+multimeter