Best 3d printing liquid according to redditors
We found 54 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printing liquid. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 54 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printing liquid. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Not plastic. Resin, the Anycubic is a DLP printer, using a liquid resin and a UV display to print the layers. The quality is perfect as perfect as the model you load into the machine. no print lines, this model I only needed supports on the shoulder pads. Everything else was straight printed
Here are some links
Printer: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anycubic+photon&qid=1554900126&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Resin: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-POT016-PRINTER-500Mll-500G-Grey-Bottle/dp/B079GR1L19/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anycubic+photon+resin&qid=1554900236&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Egloo and anycubic brands, Amazon and anycubic site
ELEGOO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8tz1DbY8QX22B
Here's the list of stuff I got.
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MelodySusie 36W UV Nail Lamp Dryer, Professional UV Gel Nail Polish Curing Light with 3 Timer Setting, Sliding Tray for Manicure Pedicure Gel Polish, UV Resin, Acrylic, Polygel, White
Sold by: MelodySusie Direct
$26.59
Buy it again
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SC Products 4" Rotating Display Stand, Solar Powered, Chrome Finish, by Sunrise Crystal
Sold by: Sunrise Crystal
$12.99
Buy it again
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ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing 1000Gram Grey
Sold by: ELEGOO
$39.99
Buy it again
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ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version
Sold by: ELEGOO
$279.99
Buy it again
Not prime, but Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Monocure-3D-Rapid-FLEX100-Printers/dp/B07HPD1R41
I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).
There are some additional costs to be aware of though.
It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.
Siraya Tenacious is VERY hard to break. There have been posts on the Epax X1 facebook group where a guy throws and kicks around a print, and it doesn't break at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Tenacious-Flexible-Resistant-Siraya-Tech/dp/B07PLJ9XW9/
I want to see somebody try Siraya Tech Blu. I saw a video where somebody made a 22lr suppressor out of this stuff and it held up fine.
its transparent, its the .5L of resin that ships with the anycubic photon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C983BSY/ref=twister_B07BLXJBRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I went with this
Blu by Siraya
I use ChiTuBox and these are my print settings
I do about a 10-15% mix with Anycubic Grey and these are my last print results
Edit: Forgot to add, I cure my model for about 15 minutes before priming.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This stuff glows SUPER bright and is a pretty decent transparent blue color. Glows bright electric blue under UV light.
anycubic photon brand grey resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GR1L19/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
anycubic photon brand white resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GM7VQ5/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
anycubic photon brand yellow resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GPPZH1/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
It should come in green and black options but it seems those are sold out. For whatever reason, both the printer and the resins keep going in and out of being sold out on amazon. If you watch them over the course of a week you will see them go into sold out then back again 1-2 times per week. Right now they are all labeled 'only 2 left!'.
I just bought my printer yesterday. Three days ago saw it on amazon. 4 days ago someone had posted that it was sold out. Seeing this I figured they were crazy. Then I went back to amazon next day and actually pressed the buy button to find it was sold out. Checked again the next day and its back. Bought it. Today it says it only has 2 left.
I don't think there is any, at least not that I've found (I was in the same predicament you're in now)
The best way to get custom colors that I've found is to get white (or clear) resin, then dye it. I use about a 2-3% dye to resin ratio when mixing dyes in.
I use this resin
And this brand of dye
I mix it directly in the printer pan, using syringes to get the right amount of dye and resin.
One tip, measure out as close to the exact amount of resin you need (per your slicer) plus about 50mL that way you don't waste resin after you're done with that color (cause you can't put the resin back in the same battle)
Lemme know if you have any questions :)
Thank you for pointing that one out. I just found on Amazon that the same company makes another, ever more flexible version named, "Tenacious". I'm going to look for Youtube reviews of them both.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PLJ9XW9/
You can do it! Not sure about food colouring, you might want something alcohol based instead of water.
Monocure actually make some dyes especially for colouring their range of printer resins:
https://www.amazon.com/Monocure-3D-Pigment-Printer-Resins/dp/B07G1ZBDBX
You can also add glitter and powder pigments. That's how I did my printed opal: https://imgur.com/gallery/uSru2Dq
Hi. Based on the info I found Blu by Siraya is not really flexible but simply bendable (not brittle). As far as I know bendable parts may not crack, break and shatter but they may also not return to their printed form after being bent too much. And flexible almost always returns to its originasl shape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=jxuinrFVw7o I hope I'm not wrong on this and you get my point.
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is there a specific reason you mix with ordinary brittle resin?
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Thanks.
I can drop a 28mm miniature from 10 feet to a concrete floor, and nothing happens to it printed in Sariya Blu. It's legit. And, it's cheap as shit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34 You get 1 LITER for $49.99.
I use MG Chemicals, this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBO75ZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Elegoo Grey has a very low oder. I run two printers in my craft room and it doesn't bother me at all ( I may have a higher tolerance than others though?)
Siraya Tech has a resin in pre-order on amazon right now that they are saying is fast curing, stronger than most other resins and they claim it i "not smelly" haha. It's $33 for 1L and releases at end of August
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VBM4Z7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#detail-bullets
I just use this stuff, it works great and it lasts a while: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079984GV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It’s not so much the model that defines the settings, but the resin. I used Elegoo gray. Here are my ChituBox settings for this resin.
Here are a few other tips. When casting small stuff like this you should use a pressure pot. What that does is, while the resin is curing, the pressure, say 4 bar or 60 psi, will squeeze air bubbles down so small that they can't be seen with the naked eye.
If you want to make a lot of these, like thousands, then a good way to make them is via spin casting.
By the way, why are you making these by casting? Do you have a resin printer? If so there are resins that are strong enough to work, like Siraya Tech's Blu. On the other hand, why can't you buy these premade somewhere?
My problem with PrusaSlicer was that those supports were a bit too heavy, and were very difficult to remove. That being said... I'm only about 4 prints in, and am still trial and erroring my way through a bit of it. I probably just need to reduce them a bit (or really I think I had over exposure on the ones that were hard to remove).
Right now my biggest issue is some prints stick well to the bed, some don't. Between all prints I filtered the resin in the vat, and cleaned everything down with Sprayway cleaner.
The first print (the Anycubic Cube) turned out perfect.
My next print on my own everything fell of the print bed. I suspect I had too little curing so it stuck to the FEP a bit better? (Everything likes to stick to that FEP, lol).
The third print I hollowed everything out and added relief holes (to reduce suction)... re-zeroed the bed a little closer to the screen, put some pieces on 45 angles, some left with their base flush with the plate (as they were support free minis)... 75% made it through the print successfully (one of the flush ones failed). I noticed my prints were much more securely stuck to the bed.
My final print everything was hollowed out, mix of sliced in PrusaSlicer and ChiTuBox came out, but I used a smaller layer height and I don't believe I lowered my exposure time enough, as everything was DEFINITELY cured when it came out. This is the one where I had a hard time removing the Prusa supports (but the ChiTuBox light supports came off wonderfully).
Here's all my prints so far!
https://imgur.com/a/JEPq4iJ
My biggest questions so far is at what layer height should I be printing at? Are some better at others for getting solid first layers. I know in FDM you use a .2mm layer for your first layer, then go to finer detail if you need it.
Do some resins do better than others for adhesion to the bed (and less adhesion to the FEP)?
Are translucent resins bad for detail? I'd imagine you get scattering... but maybe not. I picked up a bottle of Elogoo Grey Resin ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLLNFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that I'm excited to try out.
Does the FEP just get less sticky over time?
My favorite reason lately is Siraya Blu: Blu - Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin by Siraya (1kg) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSYRW34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FcsjDbDWXH7G7
It's my first time with a resin that's able to make end-use parts like this so it's a lot of fun.
Looking at the data for RPU & EPX, the HDT was what stuck out to me for RPU. It seems like you could do voron parts with EPX though.
I've been curious about using SLA to make voron parts myself, but temperature resistance always seems to be the barrier while keeping resin cost reasonable.
This stuff seems interesting but doesn't have a ton of data on it https://www.amazon.com/Sculpt-1kg-Resolution-Resistance-Printers/dp/B07M8J8PCX
https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-All-One-Adhesive/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/
Typically if a part of a model doesn't print, but later pieces do it's pretty safe to presume it's something to do with supports.
As for hollowing, I'm chasing that dragon myself. I've noticed The hollowing function will cause "artifacts" that show up on the first layer of the print when it's sliced and previewed, and they ruin the model. I've had some success with MeshMixer, but the last model I tried to hollow wound up with cracks in the base, so I stopped until I can spend more time researching how to fix them.
Resins - people are using a lot of Elegoo brand resin for their minis. A lot of positive buzz surrounds the Siraya Tech Blu resin, but be aware it needs to print in a warmer environment, 25C or warmer. I have used the sample translucent green to good effect, and I'm working through a bottle of Anycubic white that is similarly working quite well. I've got some of the Elegoo gray and Anycubic plant-based resins sitting in my workspace that haven't been opened yet. I have high hopes for the elegoo and no idea on how the plant-based resin will do.
No idea if anyone makes an auto-refiller for these printers. Good idea though.
Fixed: First off, thank you guys so much for your advice. This forum is a huge boon to owning a photon. Passing it forward, the problem was solved after I did the following:
https://smile.amazon.com/Tenacious-Flexible-Resistant-Siraya-Tech/dp/B07PLJ9XW9/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=tenacious+resin&qid=1563822651&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.
Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82
It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.
For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.
Its $30 for 500g here (so 1/2 liter) from Amazon. Specifically this it the one I found.
eSUN 3D Printer bio Resin for LCD 3D Printers, 500g eResin-PLA Orange
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R95YMTC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_BHzCDbFKE7EHZ
Prusa Resin is $57.99 per bottle and $12 shipping (that was the shipping cost on the two bottles I bought recently). I may give the esun a try just so I have a fall back. Thanks for the info.
Amazon for 500g, $6 cheaper then when I bought them 9 months ago.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY
I'm watching in hopes an expert can set us straight with one simple trick because I'm having the same problem with PETG. I had only one print ever stay on the bed. PLA hasn't been giving me a problem but have you heard of this stuff I've been thinking about getting it.... Bed Weld https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079984GV5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6YoxCbA8TKXRN
Canadian here, there is a pretty good deal on the 1000g grey right now
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P6W5L8P/?coliid=IC39IYRZ4IBM3&colid=3V9PV3KM90NUC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Goo Gone uses it as it's primary ingredient. Its not a 100% concentration so it may or may not dissolve cyanoacrylate/super glue, but I've had good luck with using it on ABS without damaging it before I started buying the pure grade stuff.
This is the kind I buy for cleaning ABS now. http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-d-Limonene-Degreaser-Printing/dp/B00RBO75ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1457531512&sr=1-1&keywords=d-limonene
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07FCK9RM6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=elegoo+resin&qid=1549867338&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Looks like. They sell a 3D printer, so they sell resin, and I like it. It's easier to get off the bed than Photon grey, which is easier than Photon green, that's for damn sure.
I was thinking of mixing some of this stuff with some gelatin powder. Monoprice Rapid UV 3D Printer Resin 250ml - Gray | Compatible With All UV Resin Printers DLP, Laser, or LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BH23KF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dyGDCbB89HTDT
Amazon, all show available to me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY/ref=twister_B07WDPDWMG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing 1000Gram Clear Blue - ABS Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T644RCF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4cqMDbQ24G6R5
Just be careful to make note of the amount as well. The standard is around about $45/L, which would be around 60cad. I'm in the US, so can't speak about anywhere local and such. I just went off of the prices listed on amazon and such.
For the Bluecast:
https://www.digitmakers.ca/collections/vendors?q=Blue%20Cast-3D%20Garage
Note that those are 500g, so approx. .455l, so about 350cad per liter.
Monocure:
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Rapid-Printer-Compatible-Printers/dp/B07H45B4QF/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=monocure%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075417&sr=8-11&th=1
That's for half a liter, but priced like a full liter.
Anycubic, they don't have grey atm, but price would be pretty much the same:
https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Photon-Printing-1000ml/dp/B07GPDMVKP/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=anycubic%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075556&sr=8-9&th=1
That's for a full liter, and it's cheaper than the half liter of Monocure.
Elegoo:
https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-ABS-Like-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer/dp/B07P6W5L8P/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=elegoo%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075900&sr=8-6&th=1
A bit more, but not nearly as much as monocure or bluecast.
I liked the flexible surface until I started printing on glass.
This glue works wonders and is very easy to clean.
Layerneer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079984GV5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share