Best fuel line disconnect tools according to redditors

I have a few. They're use primarily for the automotive industry.

Lisle 22850 Hose Pincher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vRR6Cb3JC7RGB

find something to slip under the hose, they have special picks for this but really anything will do. Bend the end of a cheap spoon or something.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050SFZBG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0095Y17S6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1KZA4RSPGPZSDAYBC883

That's what they look like.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536435745&sr=8-6&keywords=fuel+line+tool&dpID=31XB0Q9pRWL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And safety glasses. Make sure you relive fuel pressure first.

The lines are incredibly easy to replace.

1. Remove filter box and electric fan
   
2. Use a Fuel Line Quick Disconnect tool to remove the radiator-side hoses. You can buy these or similar kits at the parts store
   
3. Squeeze the plastic tabs together on the transmission side and gently yank out
   
4. Transfer the old QD tabs to the new cooler lines
   
5. lube both ends with petroleum jelly and reinstall. The new hoses are seated properly when you feel a click

If it's been an Oregon vehicle all its life there won't be any rust, we don't salt the roads here. One thing that will be needed to replace the fuel filter is a disconnect tool like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6

For the handtools I would go to sears and buy a craftsman set instead. You can walk in with broken tools without a receipt and get replacements for free no questions asked. I haven't used duralast but I imagine craftsman to be better quality

Doing the plugs and wires, only do one at a time so there is no way to get the firing order mixed up. Same thing with the brakes, this way if you get mixed up you can refer to the other wheel.

Sorry if you already mentioned this but:

GET A MANUAL FOR TORQUE VALUES AND RENT A TORQUE WRENCH

You can change the fuel filter extremely easy. If you are skinny and the car isn't dropped, you can change it without jacking the car up. You will need these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413940398&sr=8-3&keywords=fuel+disconnect+tool

and of course a new filter, which is cheap.

"One of the two by the engine isn't really specific enough". What are you looking at? Do you have a picture?

Chances are high that the answer to you question is to buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6

But I can't be sure without more info.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6517-Disconnect-Tool-Set/dp/B000HTRP7A/ref=sr_1_27?crid=IZ41RJPIVKMI

I recommend these instead. Notice how they're notched where they open? That lets you slide them over the line without fighting to hold them open(and pinching your finger). Really nice for tighter spaces.

If he is like me, he has all the tools he really needs, but would love to have some of the luxury tools most of us do without. These are things that make the job easier, but we don't buy unless we have to.
A few ideas:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6508-Full-Coverage-Master-Disconnect/dp/B000O1E54M/ref=pd_sim_auto_27?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3569-Terminal-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000I16DFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Products-95978-Master-Terminal-Tool/dp/B001BFQ3UY/ref=pd_sim_auto_42?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP40-Automotive-Back-Probe/dp/B000VRJGT8/ref=pd_sim_auto_84?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=pd_sbs_auto_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

a set of quick disconnect tools for fuel lines etc?
fuel pressure tester is a must for troubleshooting

1/8" fuel line disconnect tool.

I have the exact same motor. The only belt you have to remove is the serpentine belt and thats easy to do. You just need to pull the tensioner back with a box ended wrench and use a nail (I used an allen key) to lock it in place.

I was fairly hesitant when I did it a few weeks ago, but looking back now, it was easy. I can do a video for you on removing the serpentine belt if it would help you. Once the alternator is off (held in place by 2 bolts) its just disconnecting hoses. The serpentine belt isn't like a timing belt. It can come off on and on with no special treatment and wont wreck the car.

Are you getting the P2181 code on your car and having issues with the temperature gauge getting to 200f? I was with mine.

Heres the DIY guide I used to do mine. Also, get a hose pick to help with stubborn hoses. It also helps with removing the locking rings for the throttle body pipe and lower radiator hose. One of those little extendable magnets and magnetic trays are also invaluable. Hopefully some of that helps. Its definitely worth it to save the money over taking to a shop/dealer.

Something like this?


https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Disconnect-Scissor-Mazda-Vehicle/dp/B00YFRD1Y6?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_15707681_2&pf_rd_r=WWEFQ10KXKM5J3FDZC4X&pf_rd_p=a8709550-132f-57ac-9501-dc9a891fb8bd&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=15707681&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Clamp the hose with a special tool or I've used needle nose locking pliers to reduce fluid loss. Bleed air from hose after replacement. I use these!

Lisle 22850 Hose Pincher

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gVcHyb5S1C4XT

I only used the pre-fill. It was hard to get on board with the "pump will suck the PAG and you'll need to add more" rationale because where would the excess PAG then go in a closed system? I assumed excess PAG would be distributed throughout the system. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe I'll do this again next year, but for now everything has been blowing cold. Tip: absolutely have a disconnect tool for this job.

Yea, you can knock it out in a couple of hours. I saw videos where they modified caps of Sharpie marker to disconnect the fuel lines. I messed up my lines trying that way. They sell the disconnect tool at auto part stores also (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEX5C9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eXiDAbA9KTJ3S)

IMO I like to try the least expensive fix and work my way up. Good luck!

That ford uses plastic lines. Go to a part store (a rear one. Not autozone) and get a cheap fuel line to get the clip. Remove fuse for fuel pump, then start the car and let it die. Turn off key. Your system is now de pressurized. Put the fuse back when the job is complete.

This is the special disconnect tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRCK6/ref=psdcmw_15707681_t3_B000W1R1J0

1. release the fuel line pressure by putting some rags under the fuel rail and pressing on the schrader valve on the fuel rail, there might me a retaining clip holding the two pop it off with a screwdriver
   
   
2. use a ac / fuel line disconnect tool and pop off the fuel line from the fuel rail
   
   
3. undo the nuts holding the fuel rail down
   
   
4. remove the injector wires from the injectors (mark them so you put them back in the right order and remove any clips holding the injector to the rail
   
   
5. pull up evenly and wiggle on the fuel rail, some injectors will come out with the rail some will stay with the manifold
   
   
6. wiggle out the injectors from the manifold or fuel rail and fish for any o rings that didn't come off with the injectors.

Does it need to be those angled ones?

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

There’s also these

https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-Corporation-22850-Hose-Pincher/dp/B0002NYB78
or

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3792-Hose-Pinch-Off-Pliers/dp/B00HSCH10A