Best pool cleaning tools & chemicals according to redditors
We found 193 Reddit comments discussing the best pool cleaning tools & chemicals. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 193 Reddit comments discussing the best pool cleaning tools & chemicals. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's a failed project. The key component here is a water pump, it's very loud and it uses a lot of power. They hide it in their promotional videos. You'll notice that they use voice-overs or music when showing how the bin works.
Edit: also, their website doesn't list any technical specs at all. Literally all they say is that it uses an electric pump, either 110, 240 or 24 volts. No details about water flow, power consumption, noise, maintenance, estimated lifetime of the pump. It's just stock photos and inspirational stuff about saving the world and all that.
Their Indiegogo campaign said that deliveries will start in 2016, yet the product is still not finished. Estimated retail price is $3,800. Very similar products can be bought for a $100.
Edit2: Here is their Indiegogo campaign from 2016. They exceeded their goal by a significant margin, yet they never shipped any bins. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/cleaning-the-oceans-one-marina-at-a-time#/
Amazon Pool Rx
OP you need this product. Stick in your pump basket, but, skip the recharge kit and buy another one in 6 months. If you shock the pool with powdered chlorine, predissolve it thoroughly. Can cause a stain/shadow for a few days but fades eventually. This has cut chlorine consumption drastically. We were skeptical about carrying this product. But damn it works.
Equipment List
____
Chemicals and Food
____
OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.
I use a large Sear's wet dry because I had it already. It has a hose discharge so I don't have to empty it manually. I just vacuum up the bottom with long hose extensions. When the vacuum is full, I discharge the dirty pond water to my plants and bushes.
There are custom pond vacuums like this [OASE] (https://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA) which are not expensive and works pretty much the same.
But you can build your own vacuum that works on the same theory as a fish tank one. You build it from PVC pipes and it uses suction from your garden hose to draw out the water. Ask on this [forum] (http://www.gardenpondforum.com). I either saw it there or someone there invented it.
I just came across this research on seawater greenhouses for a global water class.
My feeling is that it would be easier to focus on plants and animals that are native to that ecosystem. Look into halophytes. Other good crops could be kangkong or New Zealand spinach. Here is some research that was done on both of those crops under various saline concentrations. You will want to get an idea of the salt concentration you are dealing with. Might want to search for that info or order a salt test kit.
I would seriously reflect on non-traditional crops since the wont tolerate much imperfection in their environment. I feel that organisms that live in these saline environments have developed very good cellular machinery to regulate their homeostasis and should be looked at. Ions build up to toxic levels in many normal crops even at low concentrations of salts. Tossing in crops that are not adapted means that you will have to provide all of that energy to change their local environment. It could be done at a cost but its not really a permaculture way of doing it. It's easier to change the crops.
The idea is good though. Kristopher Hite posted an article on Scientific American on using plants to capture runoff nitrates from the Mississippi River. It would be useful if we could create something like a floating farm. Bill Mollison used to talk about how our city's are designs to dump nutrients out to sea, and future generations are going to have go out and bring it back.
Tbh at my pool at the Y we run our chlorine mostly between 3-5. As said previously, higher bather load (more swimmers) usually means 5-10ppm. They meant chlorine at 1.5, a 1.5 pH would be absolutely incredible and dangerous. I consider 1.5 to be low, but we would not close our pool over it, just add more. 1 is closing.
You can get one of these testers at any pool store or Walmart for pretty cheap peace of mind. They have instructions inside that are very easy to follow. I'd be slightly offended if you tested my pool, but I also check the chemicals hourly and I'd know what they are if you asked me, so I doubt your lifeguards will say anything. Clearly they don't keep good records. You should complain about that. Not trying to make you paranoid, but the ones who don't check chemicals are not necessarily the best lifeguards either.
If it's cloudy, good call not to swim. If it smells strongly or makes your eyes water from deck, don't swim. I'll add that if you do get a tester and the pH is not between 7.2-7.8, then don't swim.
Can I ask what the hours of your pool are? IMO 3 times a day is not enough if it's open relatively 24/7.
Edit: You can totally buy strips. Never used them before, but they are also probably at any pool store or walmart. I would probably be amused if you did this at my pool. It's probably a lot subtler than the dropper-testers.
Edit 2: I feel like I should add that I would let you test my pool if you wanted to, even if it would hurt my feelings. I feel like up top there I insinuated that it wouldn't be okay, but it would be fine. I have nothing to hide.
Like most super powers, you can buy it for under $20
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
*first result I got on amazon. I'm not sure how good it is.
I have the same one. TDS meter reads in single digits.
Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.
I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!
600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50
6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75
25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10
48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99
FFOF - $18.99
General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95
CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23
Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65
Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19
Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84
PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95
Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59
LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81
Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.
Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><
To be fair, tap water commonly has some ions in it - some salt, some rust. Which makes it conductive. Depending on a lake it can be less conductive than tap water. But that "depending" is pretty much the key. Unless you bring solid particle tester with you everywhere - you can't be sure.
It measures the total dissolved solids in the water, which for the most part is what matters, buy one, stick it in the water. If it reads under 50ppm it's fine. If it's over it's no good.
Linky
We have a kitchen cupboard full of Nuun electrolyte tablets because my SO subscribed to them on Amazon and never unsubscribed. I'm looking forward to them being used. They are super great though.
I've been meaning to go through this thread from last year to see what people recommended.
My recomendations are;
A big vacuum insulated growler (why is that the American word for drink bottle?!) to put in your bike basket/pannier so you can have a cold drink after hours of riding around.
This screw top pot of smelly stuff for clearing your sinuses. It's herbs that smell like vix vapor rub and it's great, especially on the playa.
This battery operated personal mister that goes in the cup holder my bike already had.
Pickle flavored candy canes. These didn't even make it to the playa last year. I ate them all within a day of them being delivered.
If you use rebar (like for monkey huts, I don't think lag bolts are really an alternative there) this will be your favorite thing at pack down.
The pond looks lovely!
I'm not a landscaping professional but an environmental engineer and what you basically want to do here is dredging so I feel I can offer you some advice.
If you want to do this more or less for free you'll need a rake and a some sort of boat. You can scoop the leaves out. It will take a lot of man hours, especially if this hasn't happened in the last 30 years. You can use the decaying leaves, by making a compost pile and letting them compost for a while longer before use in your garden. I wouldn't worry about wildlife here too much. Species that life in these types of highly organic, low in oxygen sediments aren't threatened and really don't do much good for the ecological balance in a pond like this. You can leave the leaves at the banks for a couple of days if you want to save the frog population, they'll get out and back into the water.
Alternatively you can buy a pond vacuum cleaner (something like this http://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA). It will cost you about 200 bucks and you'll still need a boat and plenty of man hours. Your pond is quite large.
And a third alternative: you can hire a company to do it for you. They'll bring professional equipment and get the job done quickly. That will be 500 bucks or more though, depending on where you live.
After you've removed the sediments you're not done though. I'm suprised you mentioned not having algae problems. Have you seen the pond during warm weather yet? In a pond with a big amount of leaves I'd expect some algal blooms or duckweed covers during summer. If you do experience troubles with that you might want to consider putting a layer of 20 cm or so of clean sand to cover up the current sediment. The quality of that sediment won't be very good for aquatic live (very eutrophic with a high oxygen demand). A layer of clean sand will soften the effects.
Also, in the future you do need to prevent a new leave build up. You can prevent the majority of leaves from getting in by putting a net over it in autumn/winter or by cutting down trees close to the pond (a 10 meter perimeter will do).
Would you like to leave the pond as it is or would you like to use it for swimming or for fish? If you'd like to keep fish or clean enough water for humans to swim, you'll need some additional work like trying to develop a healthy vegetation (helps to keep the water clear and oxygenated).
Id rather use hard water than soft water. Too much salt buildup kills plants.
Take a sample to your local fish store if possible (Or purchase a PPM/PH meter) to find out your PPM and PH.
Anything above 300ppm gets a little sketchy and you will want an RO system.
PH can be altered but anything over a PH of 9 you will be using a ton of PH down.
If your PH and PPM are both below what I stated above I would still recommend something like a Small Boy filter for Chlorine/Chloramine and undissolved particles.
Grab a TDS meter and see what the water looks like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hi.xDbFM7VJRA
RO/DI water is great to use!
After you transplant leave your light off for 24 hours to help with the shock. Sometimes hydro shops have used bulbs they will sell for cheap, depending on your ballast your should be able to run a 250 watt bulb if that's all you can find and afford. If the plants aren't in cubes I suggest letting the roots stay in the small clump of soil around them. You could wash the roots off but it will stress them more and when exposing them to lights you risk killing the roots. After you transplant fill right up to the bottom of the leaves that are growing. If you don't have a ph meter I suggest something like this. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396007211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ph+meter Its fairly inexpensive and very easy to use. If all you have is less than $30 to spend I suggest the meter over a mh bulb and pick up a thermometer. Also since the plants will be in shock once you transplant them foiler feed with water (spray down the tops and bottoms of the leaves with clean soft water)
I'd make a tea from the soil your not using. Its not going to be the best but will give you some nutes if you can't afford to pick up bottles.
Well those roots look healthy to me. Just try the flushing. Here is a TDS I use for $16. Even if you do not go for the calibration solution gotta have it if you want to grow the dro.
I run http://www.mistymate.com/misty-3.html for my local shows- you can unscrew the mouthpiece off a camelbak then lean forward to refill it too, which is super convenient.
Planning on picking up one of the bigger units like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005727E2I/ref=pd_aw_sim_86_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41z3du8U9CL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL200_SR200%2C200_&amp;refRID=BJ6JR7GX8A6RRXJ3DKYN for Vegas though, more reservoir means less refilling and more sharing. Have to get backup spray nozzles for this type though- had one where the nozzle fell off and was lost forever at Beyond Wonderland, Bay Area.
Also have a camelbak attachment that may or may not work, ran into a guy with one at a show last year. (http://www.amazon.com/HYDRATION-adjustable-efficiently-streaming-Mr/dp/B00O4P214K)
Taking no chances this year.
Yea, if you really want to be sure, just bring a testing kit everywhere you go.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All-In-One-Water/dp/B002XISS4C
> run the water for a few seconds to get it to be clear.
then you should DEFINITELY get a 2 stage system (otherwise you'll burn threw expensive cartridges for nothing) one dedicated to particulates. to determine what unseen contaminants you may have, first buy a water test kit, then get the 2nd stage filter to address what it reveals.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B002XISS4C/ (if you are not good at following directions PRECISELY then have a friend come over and help you)
look, it really boils down to this - if you simply want a piece of mind placebo, then get the culligan your friends like. if you actually want to know what exactly is wrong with your drinking water, and filter precisely for it's now understood flaws, then listen to the voice of reason...
http://www.cityofws.org/waterqualityreport2014
It's just as possible that your tap water has too many minerals. My tap water supply can sometimes have 6-9 times the optimal level. Short of having a full water test done, you can buy a cheap TDS meter off amazon (we use these) but I'm sure any of them are fine. You're looking for an target of about 150ppm but I've had great cups from 100-350ish. You might find it might be a good idea to mix some distilled and tap, preferably filtered if your water has any distinct taste to it.
For no cost (aside from coffee and water) you could just try a 10%tap 90%distilled batch, a 50/50 batch, and a 100% tap batch and just make some adjustments from whichever you like the most.
I run a DWC and use this for a PPM meter. Does the job. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or want to chat.
>With the raft, don't the roots sit in water?
&nbsp;
Yes and no. What you want to do is get enough foam so that about half of inch sits outside the water at all time. This allows the roots to breath outside of the water (like the DWC). Again, don’t let this part get dry or it can cause air pruning. You can do this by allowing the net pot to sit a little higher in the foam, planting higher in the net pot, or getting a little thicker foam.
&nbsp;
I am attaching a link to MPH Gardener. I would say look over his stuff. He is pretty freakin’ awsome.
&nbsp;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDYeffYcVkY
&nbsp;
>Can you recommend all the testing equipment I need or provide an Amazon link?
&nbsp;
You will need a PPM and pH meter. These are two cheap version I use. You can go as crazy as you want, just remember the cheaper the more you replace them.
&nbsp;
pH: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Accuracy-Measurement-Resolution-Handheld/dp/B00FJFEB2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427150876&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ph+meter
&nbsp;
pH Callibration Liquid: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X5KAV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B004HE7W42&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=118RAVZJW5YGE1CB5EE9
&nbsp;
PPM: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427150876&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ph+meter
&nbsp;
>With lettuce greens, I think the raft would work. Perhaps I'll do DWC with tomatoes; I think it would be hard with greens.
&nbsp;
That sounds great. Watch the MPH Gardener on his Dutch bucket tomatoes first. I will preface with he does use MiracleGro for his nutrients, which is a highly debated topic. So take the nutrients with a grain of salt.
&nbsp;
>How do you swap out water? Do you just do a 100% water change? Is that cost-effective with the price of nutrients?
&nbsp;
I do do a 100% water change every two weeks. You can check the level of nutrients and try adding them; however, I have an outside garden during the summer and just put the nutrients there which does wonders for them.
&nbsp;
Also, it gives me a chance to add in bacteria as I need it.
&nbsp;
There are methods for balancing the pH, nutrients, and keeping the same water; however, as a beginner I would not get into this. If you want to we can talk but just swap the nutrients out as you go.
&nbsp;
And this is where I will highlight that you want a shallow reservoir because you want to keep the minimum water you need to not to waste nutrients. I would say go to a hardware store and ikea and see what bins will work.
&nbsp;
>Do I need to paint my plastic bin black to deter mold growth? Thanks so much for your help!
&nbsp;
Yes and no. There are ways to go around managing algae with either pond products or barley straw mats, but to be honest sealing off holes and painting things black is the easiest.
&nbsp;
Keep in mind that if you are going to have high heat in the room a white reservoir might be better than black.
Invest in some calcium hypochlorite. One pound purifies 10,000 gallons.
Just make sure you get the one with the DI. The replacement cartridges are pretty reasonable as well, and my lps sells them as well as amazon. I have heard nothing bad about that system. My TDS from the tap is 144, and is zero after that system.
Here is the TDS monitor for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EHAZGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a float valve if you need one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113UJOOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/PoolSkim-Pool-Skimmer-Cleaner/dp/B002WKOEGM
Probably the single best purchase I’ve ever made in my entire life. Total game changer. I’d easily pay ten times the amount.
-NW Florida with an uncovered pool.
https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R201276-Residential-Commercial-Vacuums/dp/B003840IV6
this is the vac we use in the commercial world, only the 22 inch version
I have this model http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-GW9500-Automatic-Cleaner-In-Ground/dp/B002G9U17U Several friends of mine have had this model for 7-8 years. It is simple and cheap to repair also.
You should consider buying a TDS meter like this one. It allows you to accurately keep track of the solution strength.
Don't worry about buying a more expensive one, you won't need much for a home project.
I got the pH meter above, and this TDS meter, whilst my cabinet is monitored inside and at exhaust exit with this temp/humidity gauge with min/max for all fields.
Combined price is < $60.
Seems to work just fine.
But I do like the gizmo you linked to. Maybe for a hydro setup?
This is the most purchased one on amazon. Anyone have it? Reccomend it?
I have struggled keeping my pool algae free for five years. I have poured enormous amounts of chemicals and shocked it so many times and nothing had worked. But this year I tried this product and boom it's crystal clean blue water. I have not seen a single patch of algae anywhere after 2 day of it being in the pool. Here is the link of the stuff on Amazon
I absolutely love my Kreepy Krauly Great White. It scrubs the algae spots and sucks up all of the oak leaves that fall in. Its also very simple and doesnt require electricity or anything. It even cleans the walls (I have a rounded edge).
Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!
Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent
Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2
Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1
Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller
PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter
PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester
Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting
Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)
Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart
PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit
Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix
Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2
Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25
Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)
So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.
I would be more concerned about making sure its cleaned out. There is this cleaner you can get that will clear out the jets and remove grime from the piping. https://www.amazon.com/Ahh-Some-Cleaner-Clearer-Efficiently-Clarifier/dp/B0030MYGXW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1E6AKXTRWDK91&keywords=hot+tub+cleaner+for+the+jets+and+the+tubes&qid=1568212796&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+tub+cleaner%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMUlA2OVlOUjRVR1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NjI0NzExTU1INjZBVjJFMUw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNjQ1MTIxWDJRQkxaVjI5QkM5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== . I moved into my place 2 years ago and it came with a hot tub from the 90's. After using the cleaner, there was a ton of nasty buildup in the pipes. Once that's done, drain it and give it a good scrub down. Then change the filter.
Download the manual for your hot tub and read it to make sure you are performing proper weekly maintenance and using the correct chemicals. For example, some tubs take bromine tablets, some don't. There may also be some other cool features that you might not know about.
Get some hot tub test strips https://www.amazon.com/Poolmaster-22211-Swimming-Chemistry-Strips/dp/B001E6E9PG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hot+tub+test+strips&qid=1568212610&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Use them once or twice a week depending on hot tub usage. Then add any chemicals as needed. Make sure you fill up your hot tub once a week at least to make sure your jets are covered.
Thank you.
I was considering these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESQMA8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yaIZCbCGK6VWK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6JJQBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jbIZCbFJHS2QS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG9LZ4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SaIZCbV8MKYDS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KSRJXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5aIZCbVKNHCPE
How would you compare the Suction Vacuum (w/wheels) vs Kreepy Krauly?
The ones that you recommended are priced similar to vacuums.
IIRC, it's frowned in most subs upon unless a disclaimer was made. Otherwise, there'd be a flood of spammy affiliate links.
I just looked at the link. The ref code might just be an auto generated one rather than affiliate.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TXBE4Q/ ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_H0BVDbFKSW7HT
You'll need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520998347&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=salt+test+kit
Also, any test kit that includes a CYA test should be good. The K2006 is a pretty standard kit that test all aspects of water chemistry (except for salt concentration) If you have a salt generator, you'll probably need to manually boost your CYA levels that would normally come from chlorine.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator
https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg
It is possible that you could have pretty decent tap water. Your best bet would be to get a TDS meter to determine the amount of total dissolved solids. Preferably you would want less than 5ppm.
People have successfully kept saltwater aquariums without RO/DI, but using RO/DI water limits the chance of any nuisance algae and poor water quality as some tap water already has ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in it. I would recommend using RO/DI water, but if you don't want to have to buy a unit - you could always buy RO/DI water from your local fish store. It's usually ~$1 per gallon. I would advise against any prepackaged "Natural Sea Water" though... which is like $15 for 4 gallons, so you'll know the difference.
I would think it would give you a basic idea of quality.
$15.37 HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503463109&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=water+testing+meter
We bought this one last summer and it was a work horse. Easily climbs walls and maps your pool. Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner with Easy to Clean Large Top Load Filter Cartridges and Tangle-Free Swivel Cord, Ideal for In-ground Swimming Pools up to 50 Feet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8M0NWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F11SCbK9PW8AQ
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Thanks for the shoutout! Glad I could be of some help!
Ok, so let's get started.
First, what part of Texas are you in? I believe you have native CP's closer to the eastern part of the state.
Now to answer your questions:
As far as the next ingredient, I go with Silica Sand which is also called pool filter sand. Do not use play sand, paver sand, etc. only Silica Sand/ Pool Filter sand. This is the brand that I use. I've hear Quikrete makes some, but it's not available in my area. I typically do a 50/50 or 60/40 mix. If your area is fairly dry, I'd probably do a 60 Sphagnum/ 40 Sand mix. You can add perlite if you'd like, but I'm not sure it's necessary. Other optional additions are long pine needles and long fiber sphagnum top layer. Long fiber sphagnum as a top layer would be good if your climate is fairly dry as it will supplement the plants with some humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001DO35EU&amp;pd_rd_r=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH&amp;pd_rd_w=or2a0&amp;pd_rd_wg=4c4Ws&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH This test kit will do the trick. Easy to use and accurate.
Try this. I have it as a secondary skimmer and find that it catches more that the main one.
Poolskim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WKOEGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yeah I didn't go into it expecting much (an ounce or two) so we'll see what it comes out too, i'll be happy to get that.
Here are the links for the meters I get. I tested the ph meter and compared it to drops and it is spot on. Not sure about the ppm one but it got good reviews.
PPM Meter
PH Meter
Thanks for checking out my grow!
I took this last year. I took it out of the case and put it in a backpack with my camelbak. Didn't have to pump it very often and the tank lasted at least as long as my water supply did.
They can also be referred to as total dissolved solids or TDS. You can purchase a TDS/TSS meter to measure that, but you should do some research first to understand what you're measuring and what your TDS is in your water source.
If you want shrimp for algae control, look at amano shrimp, which are usually large enough to fend for themselves when housed with a betta. In a 5 gal, one would certainly do the trick.
I just purchased a water testing kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVQ7Y2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will post back here once I test it. Thank you for all of your help.
Looks a lot like ours. (Your "holding tank" is a mate to ours -- I assume it's a settling tank; can't think of any other real function for it).
Here's what I use for the pH adjustment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WKM4A0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Same sized tank, and I use 2 teaspoons for each fill, though your mileage may vary, depending on your starting pH and pump I suppose. I think each teaspoon makes the equivalent of a gallon of bleach (I need to find a source for that, but that's what's in my head).
I have this one, works well for me and apparnetly measures 0-9990 ppm.
Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool & Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHXyDbHKNAF2C
I'm not going to Coachella this year, and I already have one of these, so no need to send me one, but I highly recommend this personal mister. I can't even begin to tell you how downright fucking delightful this thing is to have when you're just sitting around being hot. It lasts a long time and you can just fill it up every time you're at the water station.
Cheap TDS (total dissolved solids) testing kit:
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Or any meter that measures EC/TDS.
I tested the distilled i was using and it read less than 5. Then my tap was 400, my shrimp tnak was 385 and my 20 gallon fish tank was at 550. So i think it was reading right. I ordered this one. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Im not sure there is a way to change it and i think it only measures PPM
El cheapo: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
These cheap ones don't adjust to temperature, so you'll have to consider that if you're reporting your values for some kind of project. They calibrate it at 25 degrees C, so any temp lower than that is going to over-estimate your TDS.
pH is as simple as getting a test kit at a pet store.
I add 3 tablespoons per gallon or 12ml/liter of FloraGro into my water for an aggressive vegetative growth period. This is basically all of the time, because of what I'm growing - herbs and lettuce that is constantly harvesting and never flowering.
In the guide and video I made, I bought soil starts that were a bit beyond seedlings to speed up the process, but I would recommend just starting with seed in the system so you avoid any dirt and bacteria that the soil might bring in. I get the brown jelly going on every now and then, and I think it's one of these:
As for changing the nutrients, I do a recirculating system where I only replace the water that gets used by the plants. So I fill it up once to start and then add water as necessary. I keep a 5 gallon barrel of water that is perfectly pH'd with nutrients added to make it a LOT easier.
To check the amount of nutrients you have going on you can spend 15 bucks and get this. It will let you know the parts per million of nutrient in your solution.
As for pH, it really doesn't fluctuate very much. I check it every now and then but as long as you pH correctly at the start, add the proper amount of nutrients to the water and refill as necessary then you are balancing pretty damn well.
I'm a bit confused on the science question, could you let me know what you mean by that?
A fan, and/or those pressurized misters. Either for personal use, or for spraying your yard with pesticides. Any friggin' thing to keep cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Pressurized-Plant-Water-Mister-Sprayer/dp/B003LE0SLS
http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1-Gallon-Garden-Sprayer/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370770845&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pesticide+sprayer
http://www.amazon.com/MistyMate-20009-Deluxe-Personal-Mister/dp/B005727E2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370771088&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=misty+mate
Also, the EZ Up/canopy/shade is a no brainer. $50 at Academy Sports.
http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_247717_-1__?color=Orange&amp;N=610345069&amp;Ntt=ez+up&amp;Ntk=All
This is the salt tester I use it works great and is very accurate: https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-SALTMETER-Digital-Handheld-Meter/dp/B005IVZKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475185291&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hayward+salt+tester
If I had the time I would always use the test kit for Salt which you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475185345&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=salt+test+kit
Also, if you are using strips you might want to consider going towards an actual test kit that is reliable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-2005-Test-Complete/dp/B00HEAQO5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475185320&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=taylor+test+kit+salt
The cheapest option would be to purchase the test kit for salt and continue using the strips. I recommend no strips and using the salt test kit and a normal Taylor test kit.
https://www.amazon.com/LaMotte-BrewLab-Basic-Water-Test/dp/B074D9VB25
Dunno how accurate/precise you need to be but this seems to work for me. I use this and BrunWater to do my water chemistry.
No one has mentioned it so I will:
Get a Parts Per Million meter. It doesn't have to be a fancy one, and actually see what's going on. My water tastes and smells pretty bad, but is only around 170ppm total dissolved solids. If I simply let it sit in a jug overnight, it tastes way better because the chlorine evaporates.
Also, request an analysis from your local water company. In my state, they are required by law to send one annually. It's a list of every molecule in their sample, but with Flint demonstrating, the testers may "pre-flush" the pipes before taking a sample, so if you don't trust the municipality or private water works, you can get your own sample relatively cheap (Home Depot does them for free where I am).
All in all a reverse osmosis system, or even just a passive charcoal one, should help tons. The former can actually take out chemically bonded impurities, while the later removes suspended particulate.
We bought this one last year and I still praise it. I love the little guy, scrubs, vacuums, etc.
You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.
>Where would one get such a meter?
This is the one I bought.
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dqfrzbBA5R7QJ
Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool and Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.AdozbC1MJ81C
This thing is awesome. It ll get sand off the bottom of my Intex pool. My pool is 18ft around and it did the whole thing in a few minutes. Way better than the one you have to hook to a garden hose or the intex pool pump. Those didn't work and had a bunch of tubes attached. This is self contained and works great.
My take on this:
Make a choice: either continue as you do it now (salt hard water, attempt to use water softener system, without reading what it does to the water and tank inhabitants), or monitor results of each your action, by testing (GH, KH, pH, TDS) and do quick search for anything you would like to implement. Like water softener system and aquarium, what to do for reducing GH in aquarium water, and do not do that without testing results. I'm not attempting to lecture in any way, if it seems so, my apologies, was not intended to. Only this seems to me to be the main source of a problem.
Not the best, but good enough flow chart of connections between water parameters and what to change them, is here. pH and alkalinity are connected.
To know them, you will need GH/KH test kit, pH test kit, and, if you feel generous ($25), TDS meter and calibrating solution from the same seller, 342 ppm TDS. Why know TDS is here, scroll down to kidneys.
Each kind of aquatic animals has own limit of tolerances, if you place soft water tetra in Tanganyika water, it wouldn't be happy, I would expect it to die. See what animals you have and what are their requirements (fast online search for a name and GH, TDS).
Know your tap water, if you are using it. Test the same: GH, KH, pH, TDS, and nitrates.
Ask here, in separate thread or in quick questions thread, if this water could be used for your fish without altering it. If yes, you are good, use it without changing anything.
If not, now you have to figure out what would you do: changing your tap water or create artificial water, using RO water and remineralizer, creating water, suitable for your fish.
For USA, reverse osmosis system with carbon block for chloramines could be as low as $133 at Home Depot, don't know its gpd. There is cheaper RO Buddie, read from their manufacturer about chloramines, compare the size and cost of cartridges and make informed choice.
If use RO water, it could be used for diluting too hard tap water or for mixing it with remineralizer.
Mixing RO with remineralizer:
If you will need diluting hard water, control result by testing, and test ratio first in a small container (jar, glass).
Any changes in the tank should be slow, to avoid shocking fish. Powders should never be added to the tank, see manufacturer's directions.
Some are using Seachem Neutral Regulator to recrease water hardness by precipitating Ca and Mg, but you have to monitor results by testing, or you can overdose and kill animals this way. Not familiar with it, read FAQ there and Seachem Support forums for it. No guessing or assumptions, know what you are doing, after running trial in a separate vessel.
It took some time for me to come to this too, you are not alone in this.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Dolphin-Nautilus-Robotic-Cleaner-Cartridges/dp/B00Q8M0NWE/ref=sr_1_3?m=A70W6TBLAYLN5&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid
We've used Pentair/Rainbow ProVac heads for years of our service vans. They do a great job, roll easily and steer well due to the swivel handle. Parts are readily available so we get 5+ years of daily use of 10+ vacuums per day before they need to be replaced. For your pool the 14" head would be a good size (R201276). We tried the ProVac 2 and didn't like it as much.
It's worth noting it's designed for 1-1\2" vacuum hoses, so if you have an 1-1\4" hose you'd have to remove the hose swivel and it won't work as well.
Short of the ProVac, I'd just get a cheap concrete pool vac and plan on replacing every couple years. I'd steer clear of liner vacs as they are a pain to vacuum with and have no benefit in your pool.
Try this one thing before anything else, get yourself one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PoolRx-Algaecide-Unit-20000-gallons/dp/B003TXBE4Q
I have a really clean pool but at the peak of summer I started getting the same algae and fought it for a while before I found that Pool RX product.
It instantly killed that algae and it stayed gone for the whole season. I reduced my chlorine by about half and still ZERO algae.
Another major bonus is it makes the water sparkle this certain way, I can't explain it. Like, you think you had a clean pool but this product just makes the water sooo clear it's really nice.
Pretty much overnight I was blown away by the difference.
Its like $60 and now this season I bought a new one and just holding it until either I see that same algae again, or once it starts hitting like 90's and 100's.
Yeah def. grab one of these off amazon they are super cheap and usefull. https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Works great.
Tds tester from amazon
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YGc-ybYV4Q0QV
Maybe someone should buy MIL some of these as a late Mother's Day present.
HM Digital (brand) TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution for it. On the back it has to have "Calibrate with NaCl" screw. This one was available locally.
Here's a simple and cheap one: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/
Here's a more expensive and more complete one: http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All--Water/dp/B002XISS4C/
I have a Misty Mate and a Frogg Toggs Towel. I can't handle Bonnaroo heat so I arm myself to the teeth with ways to cool down.
Aside from a good filtering setup, a cheap TDS tester like http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ will tell you if there's any increase in stuff in your water. You can measure your baseline for a while and if there's ever a perceptible change, you can test again. It won't tell you definitively what's dissolved in the water, but it can help you check.
Posting the same thing I did in /r/Plano on this since all of our water around here comes from NTMWD (Which has a purification plant in Wylie). While some may argue we're "within acceptable standards" I've always said on here when this comes up year after year when the lakes turn over and they load the water with chlorine there should be more science on what is acceptable for drinking water. Before that it smelled like swamp water when the lakes turned over, and this is like choosing between the lesser of two evils, I know. Would you rather drink bacteria or chlorine? I don't want to drink either, and that's why I bought a reverse osmosis filter.
Just like in recent history more science lead to the removal of lead in gasoline and paint. I personally don't drink the local water without reverse osmosis, filtering it first because I don't like the idea of putting "trace amounts" of carcinogens in mine or my kids bodies because some agency says the levels are "acceptable" and when very little information on what scientific studies were done for them to come up with what is "acceptable".
It also doesn't dispute the fact that our area has some of the highest concentration of PPM crap in our water than most of the nation. If you don't believe me buy a PPM pen off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY) and test your water. Compare to the rest of the US: https://www.h2odistributors.com/pages/info/hard-water-map.asp My tap water usually tests between 300-350 PPM. That's beyond red for that water redness map there and doesn't accurately reflect what our area tests.
If more science comes up with a warning that we should probably be reverse osmosis filtering our water before drinking until they can fix the supply problem, I'm fine with that. At least the information is out there for us. If not, I guess maybe when people die early from some form of cancer because they thought people like me were crackpot conspiracy theorists arguing on what is "acceptable", I guess that's just Darwinism in action.
Make no mistake, there probably won't be an easy long term fix. There are massive differences in how we treat water here compared to other states. For example on how corners are cut here, compare what they have in California for their intake, a cement lined reservoir:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_Lake_Reservoir
To ours, a dirt reservoir:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lavon_Lake
Dirt brings algae and bacteria and drives TDS up. You have to treat that with Chlorine and other chemicals.
Just my 2 cents on why I drink RO water living here.
Still pretty readily available in the northeast for me, but you can get it cheap from Amazon from a number of vendors.
http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Swim-Chlorine-Shock/dp/B002WKM4A0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_3
Is a good example. 6 lbs for 33 bucks plus shipping is essentially 60k gallons of water. You can probably find it in cheaper or smaller quantities, I just grabbed the first thing I saw.
I know what you're talking about. One of my jobs is cleaning pools and I believe you're asking for something like this. It's made of aluminum and has the wedge so it should be sturdy. This one is also good, it has an angled lip, but not an actual squeegee type wedge.
http://www.amazon.com/Poolmaster-21182-Premier-Aluminum-Leaf/dp/B001O5UJEM
This might be what you are looking for, unless you have already found one. These are the same ones We sell in our pool store but for way cheaper.
the Bluelabs gear is nice if you have the money.
I bought a simple $15 PH600 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-PH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334068927&amp;sr=1-1
and just as cheap a TDS meter
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Tester-Purity/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334068952&amp;sr=8-2
both work incredibly well
I am using this device:
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452279486&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+quality+tester
I used this device on :
To answer your question:
Hey, I'm looking at amazing water test kits now -- what exactly should I be testing for? pH? something like this?
or this maybe?
When it was first introduced I wondered about the connected version. Couldn't see the difference between buttons on the brewer vs buttons on your phone. The fact that the price is lowered seems to substantiate my opinion. It's a "gee whiz look at what I can do" feature regardless of whether the feature makes any sense.
As far as water quality there's a difference between hardness (measured in grains) vs total dissolved solids per whatever(tds). There are kits to measure only hardness, but I think this device will tell you more about your water: https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
The common wisdom seems to be not to use softened water as it will not extract the tastes from the coffee properly. Rather, filter out the tds.
I use a Zerofilter, and Brita filtered water to bring the tds up to 75-100 or so which is the level I think I saw Behmor recommend at one point somewhere.
There is no escape
I honestly don't know where I read every 7 days but it seemed to make sense, re-fresh the water at least once a week. Are you saying it should be changed more often or less often?
I bought a PPM meter, this one, 515 reviews and still 4 1/2 stars. Hopefully it works, I've had no luck in the past with digital PH meters and just use the chemical test kit from General Hydroponics.
After reading everyones comments I'm definitely gonna set up a PH adjusted plain water reservoir. However I grow different strains at the same time (different finish dates, some like more or less nutes than others) so I can't use one general reservoir, which is why I decided upon DWC instead of other hydro options in the first place.
Do the nutrient bottles tell you what the desired PPM is? What happens if you don't have a filtration system and your starting out at about 300 ppm from my regular well water.
I think you should be fine using the maxigrow and cal-mag for now. I would not recommend using the rockdust or azomite though. You should get all you need in the maxigrow for now.
As for the TDS tester, I use this one It is cheap and works fine. It converts the PPM to EC by dividing the reading by 500. For example... 750PPM is going to give you a 1.5 EC. Some TDS testers in other countries will use a different conversion rate to get you the correct EC. EC is universal.
So lets say your peppers need to be at a EC from 1.3 - 1.8 "depending on the size." With the TDS meter I sent a link to, you would want your water to be at 650 PPM to 900 PPM. If your tap water is coming out of the tap already with a bunch of minerals already in it like 300 PPM worth, then you want to add your cal-mag and Maxigro until you hit that 650 to 900 PPM range.
As for your pH, you want to keep it as close to 6 as possible for peppers.
I edited it in. This one.
I've considered it, but given that the water report I received from the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power states that while "most of the time" I'll receive water from one source, there is a chance that I'll receive water from two others, both of which have different mineral and chemical profiles. I was thinking about getting the LaMotte Basic Water Test Kit, but then wondered what it was going to cost to keep the reagents up to date.
Here. It is by no means a "lab grade" device but gives great reference readings when analyzing how much your plant is eating (for my DWC setup anyways). I've never grown in soil but see people run a sort of "reference flush" to compare their previous runoff from the last time they watered to judge if their plants are consuming more nutes or more water so they can adjust their amendments accordingly. I do the same sort of thing on my hempy buckets but it is just so much easier since my medium is inert.
These are what I use. They work just fine.
pH:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-pH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348464821&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=milwaukee+ph+test
TDS/EC:
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Auto-off-Function/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348464821&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=milwaukee+ph+test
Just going through something similar only to learn each 3" Chlorine Tab raises the Cyanuric Acid 1 ppm each and it just builds up over time and the Chlorine becomes less effective until even at 5 ppm the Chlorine can't stop the Algae. From here Algaecide is needed to keep the algae at bay.
Sounds like you may be in the same boat. Get a test kit that measures CYA and see where it's at. Here's the kit I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PWLYTBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here is the mobile version of your link
I'm not really sure what scale tbh, here is a link to the pen I got on Amazon if that helps at all. It might appear a lot lighter than it actually is due to my light in the tent being so bright white. Here are some pics with the tent light off and my phone flash on. I'm not sure if that's the right shade of green or not. I just watered them again after reading some info online with recommendations on Coco watering. I adjusted it to have some calmag in it and increased the Flora Grow and lowered the Flora Micro. Had a ppm of about 580 this time. Hoping it will make them happier.
Would this work out?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002C0A7ZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414341438&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Or this one?
http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/19582190?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;adid=22222222228015536541&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=m&amp;wl3=40872537152&amp;wl4=&amp;wl5=pla&amp;wl6=78764899592&amp;veh=sem
I bought a house with a 20x40 vinyl inground last year, and have learned the troublefreepools method. I use store brand concentrated bleach, 8.25%, and their pool calculator to help determine how much to use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESQMA8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495056986&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=pool+sweepers+for+in+ground+pools&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41IJ2WmA9uL&amp;ref=plSrch
And I love this little guy, he's a huge help for a very minimal investment. I named mine "Munchie."
You could've just gotten this, it's a digital water quality tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493673452&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=water+testing+kit
Water tester and filter system. Best items I bought that year.
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504296326&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=water+tester
https://www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=J4HVJXXMCEZP1BPW9F5D