Best power impact wrenches according to redditors
We found 145 Reddit comments discussing the best power impact wrenches. We ranked the 57 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 145 Reddit comments discussing the best power impact wrenches. We ranked the 57 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Welcome to EVERY FUCKING JEEP FROM 1990-2008 (at least.) These aren't overtorqued, because two came off.
You're using the wrong tool. Breaker bar? Never going to fucking work. Oh, you have a 1/2" gun that does 250ft/lbs? That's still not big enough. You need this fucker.
Oh, and five studs, five lugs, and a new wheel. Because the only way you're getting those fuckers off is by torquing till shit straight up shatters.
If you already have invested in a brand of cordless tools looks for whatever your brand offers, most higher-end brands usually are pretty comparable these days.
I've used the milwaukee m18 impact for a while and I've had much better luck with it than I've had with air tools on a too small compressor. A quick search shows Dewalt and Makita both have equivalents that are probably quite good as well.
There's a lot of electric impact posts recently.
I tried the Harbor Freight version and was sorely disappointed. So, I did a shit-ton of research and purchased a Milwaukee Fuel cordless 1/2 inch impact.
It is a fucking beast.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-22-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00GFUA7FC
Instead of getting a big, loud, expensive air compressor that you have to start up and wait for pressure to build, and have to drag it/its hoses around your garage, just get a cordless electric impact wrench. In fact pretty much all air tools have better electric versions now. I have one of these and I have used it for giant suspension and brake caliper bolts and spun them all off instantly: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68
I hear the Milwaukee 1/2" one is great and everybody recommends it for a little more money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CVAG1SG/ref=psdcmw_553424_t1_B00RGNCV1U
This little guy plus a decent 1/2" drive impact is the ticket for getting Honda crank pulley bolts off. It's like black magic.
For that price I have been happy with my Aircat 1150
AIRCAT 1150 Killer Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench, Black, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WQQ90A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L.XxCbWX07K1Z
Mine come off easily with an impact wrench. Here is mine, which gets a lot of use...
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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68
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And if you remove the fans and radiator there is plenty of room to work. One pull of the trigger and that bolt is spinning.
I'm actually in the market for a pneumatic impact wrench. I have an M18 fuel Impact which I love, but it doesn't have the power for some stuff I need so I've been doing some research.
The interesting thing about this Harbor Freight example is that it really isn't inexpensive compared to some highly rated models I've been looking at. I've pretty much settled on the Air Cat 1150.
https://www.amazon.com/AIRCAT-1150-Killer-Torque-2-Inch/dp/B007WQQ90A/ref=zg_bs_552820_1
It gets some seriously nice reviews and has better specs than the this Harbor Freight model for the same price. In addition its made in America.
EDIT: I didn't include enough detail here and caused confusion. I own an Milawaukee M18 Fuel impact DRIVER (should have included that). I have no experience with the M18 Fuel Impact wrench. My intention with my comment was not to compare the M18 impact wrench to anything... just to point out I really need an impact wrench and compare the Harbor Freight model to the Air Cat option.
You asked, I deliver
https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-S64M19L-PS1-Power-Socket/dp/B01CVAG1SG
Never had a problem since I bought this socket.
I believe those nuts are crimped, and the threads are probably rusted and fused solid. You're in for a fight.
I got a Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring specifically for dealing with problems like this. It is amazing and has saved tons of time. But an impact wrench might not work if the torx head is damaged enough.
Skip the torch. If you can't get an impact on it, your best bet is to cut the bolt off. You have three options: Cut the nut-side off and punch the bolt out through the bushing and axle mount. This won't work if the bolt has rusted solid to the steel insert in the bushing (it probably has). Option two is cut through the bushing directly next to the mount, and punch the bolt-head out. The last option is to cut the torx head flush with the mount and punch the bolt out along with the bushing.
For cutting, I recommend a saws-all with a carbide-tipped blade as the safest option. Be careful to not cut into the mount too much. If you don't have a saws-all, you could try to cowboy it with an angle grinder with cut-off wheel. Check clearance and geometry to make sure the wheel is actually big enough to cut through before the grinder shaft or body hits. If you cut the head, hit it with a flap disc on an angle grinder (most under-rated angle grinder tool IMO) to get it flush with the mount so you can punch it through. Hell, you could flap-disc off the entire head - would probably be safer than using a cutting wheel under there. 40 grit flap discs take material off amazingly fast.
Apologies for the long post. I've been where you are and like to help folks who are trying to help themselves!
I bought a set of those Astro nano sockets when I bought my stubby. Because why not right?
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50673-8-Inch-Socket-15-Piece/dp/B005VMVEV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396842&s=gateway&sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50661-4-Inch-Socket-27-Piece/dp/B002O18PLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=jh%2BWilliams%2Bset&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-9K-00-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=knipex+pliers+set&qid=1565396944&s=gateway&sprefix=knipex+plier&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2569-Master-Impact-43Piece/dp/B00MPQ88RY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunex+1%2F2+impact+socket+set&qid=1565396983&s=gateway&sprefix=sunex+&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231C-Super-Duty-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0002SRM3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ingersoll+rand+1%2F2+impact&qid=1565397014&s=gateway&sprefix=inger&sr=8-6
https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/tool-vault-56-11-drawer-tool-cabinet.html
https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Stinger-Flashlight-Steady-Charger/dp/B0015ZO8VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=streamlight+flashlight&qid=1565397140&s=gateway&sprefix=streamli&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Filter-Socket-Adjustable-Removal/dp/B07MGR24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=oil+filter+socket+set&qid=1565397258&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+filter&sr=8-17
https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sxin_3_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&pd_rd_i=B000KL4H80&pd_rd_r=cb4b628e-131d-4fcc-b250-1d9ff8c30f7a&pd_rd_w=dmdpJ&pd_rd_wg=pkYb4&pf_rd_p=eba0c0ae-19a3-4eb8-a600-1bc2a745bcd0&pf_rd_r=DDV7A2667PM9STRGS9T6&qid=1565397296&s=gateway&sprefix=cdi
Buy this list and stay away from tool trucks. Good luck
No. You want a Dewalt (or milwaukee if you're into that sort of thing).
your compressor can run an air impact just not for very long. Which might be ok given most home car repair happens at a slow pace. I think my 12gal 100psi compressor cycled once or twice when i was pulling the rear axle on my truck last summer. 2 wheels, 2 calipers, some caliper bracket bolts, and axle retaining nuts. you might have to let it refill after each wheel.
anyways i have a 1/2 dewalt impact, one of these little guys and a older kobalt cordless thats rated at 300ft/lbs. The kobalt has been able to do everything ive thrown at it that didnt need to just be cut off regardless of the tool. the air tools are much smaller and more powerful. I suppose going to something like the brushless impacts from dewalt, makita, milkwaukee or the new kobalt stuff would fix the power part but they will still be larger and heavier than an air tool. But air isnt nearly as portable.
Agree that photos would help. I'll try to link in this.
2 Issues
Fender flares.
The bolts that go from inside the tub to the plastic nuts in the flare are very corroded. Additionally, the tub seems to be a little bent, so that the bolt heads have almost no clearance. Little easier to see here.
I was thinking about sawzalling the fender flares (long way around), so that I can get a good grip on the plastic nuts, and unscrew them from the bolt, rather than attempting to unscrew the bolt from the nut.
Side steps (or rocker guards, I guess)
These are the ones I am thinking about using a torque wrench on. The 4 bolts in the middle go through the tub, with the bolt head on top (like the seat bolts). I'm soaking them in PB Blaster, but have only managed to get them halfway out. Was thinking of using one of these.
I hope that helps explain. I am sure I using some wrong words. I have no problem buying the correct tools, just not sure what they are.
I would say the bigger the more dangerous. Most often the threads will not break and you'll be left with a bolt/nut digging into whatever it is that you're anchoring. I have two DeWalt impact drivers: both cordless 20volt, one with approximately 160 Nm and a 1/4" chuck, the other is a 1/2" drive high torque driver with a maximum output of approximately 950 Nm. I've snapped grade 8 half inch lag bolts with the big one.
All in all I would suggest for standard use a 1/4 inch chuck, not drive, light duty impact wrench. Anything you feel might not be tight enough go ahead and use a socket and ratchet wrench to confirm and you should be all good.
DEWALT DCF887B 20V MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless 0.25" 3-Speed Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PleoybVS9H9CS
Source: I work in heavy construction
For anyone curious, this is the "big brother" - DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioeoybRH1MZTV
If you're getting an impact I definitely recommend an 1/2 drive.
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I did a bunch of homework 2 years ago and picked up the Milwaukee M18 Fuel. Advertised at 1400 ft-lbs reverse torque. I haven't had anything yet it hasn't broke free. It rips most things off with ease. The only thing that has even taken it more than 2 seconds to take off we're some 1 1/8" lug nuts on a RV. It still took them off no problem though.
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https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2767-20-Torque-2-Inch-Friction/dp/B077H7JP1D/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=milwaukee+m18+fuel+impact&qid=1573669412&sr=8-1
DEWALT DCF899B 20v MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Detent Anvil (Tool Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U7SMDbYY70THC
This will do it. Put this on your impact gun.
Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 19mm Power Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVAG1SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LqpQDb0K7FZWP
There is at least this impact wrench that can run off 12V.
Tire ramps or wheel chocks are also handy (arguably essential) to ensure the car won't roll over you.
Well, I do at work all the time. Yes it will do what the description says.
1475 ft lbs.
These two wrenches are my favorite: 12/14mm and 17/19mm. Tons of power for breaking tough bolts. Beautiful to look at.
My semi-deep socket set and long handle/flex head ratchet handle a lot of work, too.
Honorable mention go to manual impact driver, extra long needle nose pliers - straight and curved, Magnetic pickup tool, and trusty 1/2" dr. impact wrench
And what job can you do without a screwdriver? Using 'em all the time, good grips are more than welcome. This is my favorite screwdriver.
OOOh and PRYBARS. The biggest one in this set gets used a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJA1J68/ref=psdcmw_552820_t1_B00WTQW7JA
Yeah you're right it's 700 ft/lbs
This is the XWT08Z LXT 1/2" impact wrench. I ordered the first time from a third-party seller on Amazon (David's Tools) to avoid sales tax. When it arrived with this loose battery holder, I chalked it up to insufficient packing, as it was shipped in just the retail box with no packing inside or around it.
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The second time, I accidently ordered from the same third-party vendor, and it came with the same horrid packing and the same defect. The third time, I ordered from Amazon proper, and the packaging was only slightly better--retail box loose inside a slightly bigger box. Same loose battery holder.
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What do you guys think? It can't actually be meant to be this way, can it? Think they have a manufacturing problem? A counterfeiting problem? I guess my next step after returning all these (or maybe before) is to call Makita? Anyone ever try that?
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I've been putting off this purchase for a while and I was super stoked to finally pull the trigger. Now I'm pretty bummed.
E: apparently I’m a dummy but hopefully this post will help future dummies.
> I mean, it might hammer them off if you're sure they were torqued on correctly before and changed relatively recently. I wouldn't count on it to get you through any and all situations.
This is the best advice. I had a wheel lock stuck on my car and was unable to remove it with my DeWalt DCF886 at maximum output (~125 ft-lbs of torque). It came off like it was nothing with a corded electric impact (rated at ~260 ft-lbs).
I never ran into any situation my impact couldn't handle when I worked in construction, but I think that is because that is the purpose it was designed for. Buy an impact designed for removing lugs if you want an impact to remove lugs.
This is the corded impact I used, and it works very well for a $70 tool.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA
I've never had a nut that it couldn't take off. I've used it in everything from taking off lawn mower blades to nuts on my tractor and implements.
Some of the bolts on the implements you could barely tell there is thread with how rusted they are. Good luck on the future.
I use this
No need for a compressor and o lines to fuck with or oiling. It's great and hasn't let me down yet. In fact it outperforms my craftsman pneumatic impact
Oh. It's the Astro Pneumatics Low Profile Nano Impact Sockets.
They fit great with a Stubby impact for getting behind hubs & rotors when doing brakes.
Yep. They also have a 3/8 driver that I plan to pick up to replace my Makita impact
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF890B-Compact-Impact-Wrench/dp/B01N3JN60H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521753752&sr=8-1&keywords=DEWALT+DCF890B+20V+Max+XR+3%2F8%22+Compact+Impact+Wrench&dpID=51t1jgB1OJL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Cordless impacts FTW. I only have the Craftsman C3 20v and it's still pretty great. Takes a second or two on stupid-tight lugs (for example, whoever put the lugs on my buddys RAV4 should get a talking to - no way you'd ever get those fuckers off on the side of the road) and the wheel-hub nut on my wife's Odyssey, but it works. I've decided the money I'd spend on a bigger compressor is going to go to a small quiet one and the beefy DeWalt. If 700 ft/lb can't do it, I've got no business screwing with it... ;)
That impact driver looks awesome, and in your case it will probably work well as a screwdriver/ occasional impact. But if you wanted to step it up to an actual mobile impact and not worry about air or batteries, you could look into one of these 12v impacts - though it is much larger than a screwdriver sized tool.
That's an impact driver, not an impact wrench. I don't know that model but they generally put out about 100 ft lbs. You need something like this.
Cordless impact wrench like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X52TWA4/ref=psdcmw_552820_t1_B00WJA1J68
Not required but a great "nice to have". No need to fight bolts that are on too hard as it has ridiculous breakaway torque. Makes many jobs just far easier, as long as you can get to the bolt you can remove it easily.
IR 2135QTiMax
Best bang for your buck in my opinion. This is the quiet version. The regular one is a few bucks less, but my ears are worth it.
Well bare tool DeWalt is $204 on amazon. That's $199 with coupon. Sure it comes with a battery, but I got plenty of DeWalt batteries.
The DeWalt one also seems like it will have a long production run and is super popular, so I'll be able to buy parts, and broken ones to use for parts for years to come.
So I'm looking at the DC820B and the DCF889B because I have 2 batteries that fit. 2 concerns, will it be powerful enough for work? I think the DCF889B will be. Secondly, I have only the 1.5A batteries, will I even have enough charge to remove 4 wheels?
Not worth the money. Just get a impact wrench and a regular torque wrench to correctly tighten the lugs.
This is the most powerful impact wrench Dewalt makes. DCF899
Wind load chart (use 20 lbf/ft^2 @ 88 mph)
Basic geometry.
Wind load = 2000 lb
Moment (torque) = 20,000 lb-ft
You have two basic options:
Option 1: Handle the 20,000 lb-ft moment using mongo AEA PE-46 penetrators or DPW helix plate anchors within the base. DPW anchors are free if you request them through Art Support Services in advance. You have to pre-survey them and tie down to them. The Penetrators look like giant wood screws but driving them is a bitch and you have to do that yourself.
Option 1 is a bit dicey due to the relatively tall skinny nature of your project, but it can work with some decent engineering.
Option 2: Use guy lines. DPW anchors are probably your best bet if you're an official project. If you want to anchor yourself, a Makita TW-1000 can probably drive a PE-36 and a very heavy duty cordless impact can drive a PE-26.
Make sure to drive the PE-26 directly in-line with the guy-line and not side-load it, or it will snap.
I'm too groggy for the trig right now, have fun!
>Thats a decent price. I would be concerned with IR honoring any warranty on it.
One thing you never have to worry about with IR is warranty. They didn't become number 1 in the air tool industry by screwing their customers.
>fun fact it is cheaper to buy a new 1/2" drive impact than to repair one
Not when you buy a $250 gun. Also it depends on where you send them. Our Cornwell guy gets ours rebuilt for an average of $90
>1/2" is good to around 150-250ft*lbs depending on your compressor output.
What world do you live in? IR's 2135 series is rated at 780 FT Pounds
The 231 c is rated at 600 @ 90 PSI. CFM has to do with how well the air compressor keeps up with the tool. Any air compressor will run it, a small one will only run it at rated psi for a short period.
>I've seen more than a few air compressor catch on fire from running beyond their limit.
I've never seen one catch fire, I've abused the shit out of mine running the sandblaster for hours on end
The only problem with not having enough CFM to run a tool is you have to stop and wait on the compressor all the time. I ran on a small compressor for years when I was younger because I didn't have the money for a big one. It never burst into flames.
>The tires were put on by the mechanic so probably pneumatic tightened but I didn't think that would prevent me from loosening them manually.
huehuehue
try a breaker bar. i got tired of straining my back on tight as fuck bolts and nuts so I got this
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899HB-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464089495&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench
the tool for the job
Works every time.
I bought this Milwaukee fuel impact and now I never use my air impacts anymore. Not only does it have more power then the IR Titanium I was running what's really nice about it is the fact that it doesn't have a cord or hose getting in the way.
Do it and don't look back even once.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-22-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00GFUA7FC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504519843&sr=8-2&keywords=milwaukee+high+torque+impact+wrench
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-20-2-Inch-Torque-Friction/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505359223&sr=8-1&keywords=18v+milwaukee+impact+drive+1%2F2%22
Mixed, got a 300 or so piece set from craftsman, hated the ratchets that came with it so got 82 tooth craftsman ratchets, love their handle shape, craftsman screwdrivers pliers are a mix of channelock, chinesium, and lisle specials. Fluke 88v that I've used once... , dewalt for cordless tools, use my 899H Every day and drop it way more then I should, thank god MAC makes this got a US GENERAL to store tools at work, even tho my Husky worktop or Husky Doubletall would be better, there isnt room for them at my job.
Is this the one you would recommend? :
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230961&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+torque+driver
Electric is the key word here. You have cordless "screw" gun as some people call it. I'm talking about an electric impact wrench: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WZKUW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use this when I was at the dealer. Since I eventually got another, I keep one at home and the other at work.
Milwaukee 2763-20 M18 Fuel 1/2-Inch High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Bare Tool) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yVnQCb4CYM2M8
I doubt a person would be able to hold it still while it's being tightened.
I use to use a [12volt Impact Wrench] (https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841337-2-Inch-Impact-12-Volt/dp/B00544EZQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473463637&sr=8-1&keywords=12volt+impact+wrench) and although it appears quite weak while using it, it actually tightens and loosens the CVT and Clutch nut quite well.
I eventually upgraded my 12volt Impact Wrench with an [A/C Impact Wrench] (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html) from Harbor Freight and this bad boy is pretty powerful and it's also convenient since I could just plug it into the wall.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00544EZQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1450107221&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=electric+impact+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=419JC-zyB2L&ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PN5JAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450107221&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=electric+impact+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41xuv6aa73L&ref=plSrch
price history
I am trying to remove an Axel nut and have broken 2 breaker bars already. Borrowed a friends impact and it did nothing.
I found a person with a similar problem on reddit and this is the tool they ended up using. It costs about $60 so not super expensive, just not a tool I see myself using that much.
I have also heard this Dewalt model will most likely get the job done. So if anyone has one of those that would be helpful too. Thanks!
So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.
I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.
Tools I used:
Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com
DEWALT DCF899P1 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X52TWA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_z61ITYorXVsE3
I've been using this one at the shop for quick jobs since May. Good price and it's help up well. Definitely go cordless. AVE on YouTube did a good tear down of the harbor freight earthquake cordless impact. I believe it was made by the same people that made the dewalt. Might be able to save a few more dollars that way.
Has it always been this weak, or has something changed? That compressor and that hose (unless it's 50' long) should be fine.
I only mention it because I was trying to decide between replacing my compressor or buying electric, and I've been using this for 6 months, now:
https://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PCE211-7-5-Impact-Wrench/dp/B07255QCN4
$80 for what claims to have 450 lb-ft; I'm not sure about that, but I haven't had any problems with lug or axle nuts, and only the Honda crank pulley bolt wouldn't budge; Toyotas and Ford crank pulley bolts it does just fine.
I will be getting a compressor at some point, but I need it for more than just impacts.
For real, I've got a tractor which I have a 3 foot ratchet 1"drive for my brush mower. This Milwaukee impact does more than it.. Long life battery, handy for changing tires too. Beats my air impact without trying, has weak and strong settings. 700lbs on, 1100 off.
Hey man sorry for the late reply. I use These. They are awesome. With the big battery the impact lasts forever. I've only charged it about 5-7 times in he last year. The 3/8 one can pull off a lug nut tightened to 80 ft/lbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=51H9HKF-8WL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NVSQEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=416tDAhussL&ref=plSrch
Hope that helps.
Ingersoll Rand makes pretty decent 1/2" impacts in the $200 range. An 8-15 Gallon Air Compressor is going to run you $250-400
If you don't want air you can get something like this
I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WQQ90A
the problem is I have to use an extension bar because of access, I think it reduces the power.
There are 2 other main styles of impact.
The butterfly
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-Butterfly-Impact-Wrench/dp/B01M6UKE43
1 inch usually used for truck wheels.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E25LTY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MYcCDbE64MR9V
Take look at this again it is a standard air hose balancer with an adapter to hook to the top of the tool.
http://www.sphosereel.com/pistol-type-air-tool-balancer-3875138.html
If you insist on having the air line come out the top im sure ingersoll rand would love to make a custom tool line just for your factory, for the right price.
I’m not sure the reason why 1/4 is the standard for impact drivers but they do make adapters for 3/8 and 1/2” sockets.
MILWAUKEE ELEC TOOL 48-32-5033 3 Piece 1/4" He x Adapter Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUQPJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_XN-NBb5WXYM5Q
Impacts also come in 1/2” drives for bigger applications
Milwaukee 2763-20 M18 Fuel 1/2-Inch High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Ba... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_XP-NBbVEE22A4
This one is advertised as making 700ftlbs.
Do not get the 1/2" Snap-On gun.
Get the IR 2135TiMax or 2135QTiMax.
Snap-On makes great tools, even their 3/8" Impact is phenomenal (albeit a measly $20 a week for the rest of your life type deal), but bang for your buck, IR is the way to go. I've seen guys with the 231c and it's a great gun that runs forever, but why not spend a few more bucks and get an even better/stronger/more comfortable gun that runs as long as that, if not longer?
As for the 1/2" Snap-On..I've seen more of those break at the ~1 year mark, leaving the guys who bought it completely boned out of their warranty. As they're still paying for it. Sad stuff man..
Personally, I own the 2135QTiMax, and I love it. Oil it once a week (twice if the oil change/tire rotates are as frequent as a pimp asking for his money) and it's stayed quiet and more powerful than the Snap-On guns that claim to have more power. I've had to leave my bay with this gun to help people out who've "forgotten to oil" their Snap-On guns, and showed them which Impact brand really reigns supreme.
8.5 amp 1/2" electric impact wrench: $71
The stubby is rated for 250 ft lbs of torque. The mid torque is 600 and the high torque is 1400.
If you're looking for a stubby impact and you already own a compressor I would recommend getting something like a Astro 1822
These are awesome
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78314-Profile/dp/B01JBK1FHG
I'm no longer a technician, but I like cordless tools, but pneumatic is second to none when you need the torque.
I used a Milwaukee 1/4 cordless ratchet and a Makita 3/8 cordless impact driver.
I used an Astro Nano 3/8 impact wrench. That little thing was badass. 450 lb-ft torque out of a tiny little gun. I used it for lugnuts everyday. Here is an amazon link. For anything that was too tough for the Nano, I'd break out my ancient Ingersol Rand 1/2. That was made before I was born. I forget where I got it from. I think i picked it up at a yard sale. It was seized when I bought it, but I got it working and it never let me down.
That should work but there will be bolts that need more torque because of rust or someone over tightening.
I would get the Milwaukee but also look into getting one of these.
http://m.harborfreight.com/12-in-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html
I've had one for a year now and it rocks. It's $79 when its on sale. If you want something electric then this one is awesome too.
DEWALT Bare-Tool DC820B 1/2-Inch 18-Volt Cordless Impact Wrench (Tool Only, No Battery) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VWK5QO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xYVAwbZW8410R
It's very compact and goes up to around 100ft/lbs. I've taken lug nuts off with it (but I've also had cars that it didn't take them off because they were over torqued).
You should be looking at a 1/2" drive impact wrench if you want to be working with the torque levels of lug nuts. I have a 19V craftsman that I use all the time in the garage, whether it be removing lug nuts or dealing with rusted parts being resistant to move.
Noticed this on amazon today...thoughts?
DEWALT DCF899P1 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X52TWA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IlwSAbY01DBWH
this is what I use for those Honda crank pulley bolts, makes them seem finger tight
A lot of God options from astro pneumatic. Check this one out:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1822-Nano-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00VTQIURE
I've actually been in the market, too, since selling my old cordless one. I'll probably end up getting a pneumatic just because I have the giant compressor anyway, but this new 120v one is pretty intriguing. Early Amazon reviews are favorable (though some came from solicited reviews). For $70 it looks like a pretty good deal. Though Amazon also has the tried-and-true Kawasaki in a Warehouse deal right now. There are actually a lot of choices in the $70 range.
Yes, DeWalt and Milwaukee make nicer ones. But if infrequent use is already part of your equation, I would save your money.
Interesting to see exactly why you wouldn't use one of these as your every day go to rattle gun.
The slightly bigger "stubby" models are surprisingly powerful. I've used one of these and for a hobbyist who isn't using their impact wrench 8 hours a day, tossing it on the shop floor, I think it could completely replace a full size.
I had a cheap Campbell Hausfeld and a pancake. Totally worthless. It had good power for like 3 seconds as others say.
I had the enjoyment of removing a pitman arm off of my '74 Corvette earlier this year. I invested in a DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LoiRzbYFQV4AR
Oh man is this impact is dangerous. If a nut wont give, it'll snap the stud instead. Ask me how I now. Plenty enough power for me.
uhh, circuit breakers don't trip as soon as they go over 15A though.
this is why you can start electric motors (a 10-15 HP can pull 150-200A+ inrush on a ~60-70A breaker) and not trip.
"By use of magnetic shunt plates within the magnetic circuit, it is possible to divert the magnetic flux, thereby resulting in a higher inrush withstanding capability. These High Inrush trip time delays disregard short duration, high pulse surges (typically 8 ms or less and up to 25x rated current) characteristic of transformers, switching power supplies and capacitive loads."
http://www.carlingtech.com/trip-time-delay
ex2:
We have a 110v hydraulic rebar cutter that functions similarly to what you're describing with cordless impacts. It's rated for ~1700w, but it'll push enough amps (well above 15) while very rarely tripping the breaker. And we take this thing from jobsite to jobsite, so we're on 15A breakers and GFCI outlets all the time.
I imagine a Hammerdrill or a Miter saw would be different here because you typically use these tools in ways where they're under load for a longer period of time which can make the breaker trip more consistently.
I've also played around with a Fluke 375 and measured DC amps on various power tools. (Makita stuff mainly)
High drain tools won't peak anywhere above 60A,. And I'm pretty freaking sure you would never pulse anything like near 250A on a double layer of Samsung 25Rs. (5.0 Ah batteries because that's basically the standard nowadays and the 25R being the best cell in this category)
Either way, that is absolutely ridiculous and way out of spec. These batteries can handle short bursts of ~60A and a continuous discharge of 40-45A. If you put 250A through them then it's probably for some insanely microscopic amount of time, to the point that it may as well be discarded as irrelevant to the tool's average performance.
It probably has more to do with the lack of innovation in the corded market. There's no brushless 110v impact wrenches. And the mechanical engineering behind impacts like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW292-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Impact/dp/B0009HM5OI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1522218602&sr=8-13&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench
dates back to 2005. And I imagine the version before this one wasn't much worse either.
There's just no money in tools like these. So they don't put any further R&D into them.
There's also no battery packs. And 110v is essentially a universal platform that everyone has access to almost everywhere.
And it's not like Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee etc can carve out truly dedicated markets by pushing 110v tools.
But if they get you on their battery platform? You're more likely to come back to them.
So then you eventually buy something else in their constantly expanding platform. Which makes you even less likely to switch to a competitor. And by the time you've built up a nice stock of their tools? You probably need to buy some more batteries from them.
Batteries don't last forever. And disposability = more $$$$.
110v tools don't really offer a parallel to that. You can't produce highly disposable corded tools because, again, 110v is a universal platform.
There is only one cordless grinder on the market that is worth owning. I'm not just being dramatic. To be useful, a grinder needs to pull a lot of power and one tool puts the rest to shame, that tool is the DeWalt 60 volt grinder. DeWalt also has a 1/2" brushless impact wrench which accepts the FlexVolt battery from the grinder. (Note that the grinder requires the 60v battery, which switches to 20v when used in a 20v tool).