Best chemical solvents according to redditors
We found 80 Reddit comments discussing the best chemical solvents. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 80 Reddit comments discussing the best chemical solvents. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.
Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.
I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.
Edit
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Spray
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q
Ninety-one percent may be a lot better than 70%, but I wouldn't call it ideal.
FWIW, I have a bottle of this 99.953%-pure anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, which is even better.
> Rubbing alcohol (99% if you can get it)
I'll just leave this here
1.75g DMT from ACRB
2.25mL DMSO
0.5 mL gorilla glue terpines
EDIT:
Next time I would do less terpines, as I only added it for flavor; 0.25 mL would be a better ratio.After using last night, 0.5 mL was excellent.Hits like a sledgehammer - I have yet to go for a proper launch but I took a 2 second rip to test it out and almost ended up falling over from a full body euphoric rush.
Using Amazon and Medlabsupply for ease (two stop shop). I havent found much better prices (maybe a few cents..) in my homebrew career. My setup is a bit more expensive than whats listed lol.
Equipment
Consumables
Sterilization - dry heat stove method
It's pretty easy to clean this.
ESD circuit board brushes: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static-Brushes/dp/B00BM38YPW
99.95% Alcohol: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Distilled Water can be used as well, just give it a few days to dry out.
Dip the brushes in the alcohol, don't just add the alcohol to the board, you'll end up using too much.
Make sure to wait an hour or so to guarantee that its all evaporated.
Bought these sprayers: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/
Bought Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/
Used the proportions of benzyl alcohol/distilled water in this post to make 15ml solution: http://bluelight.org/vb/threads/657162-How-to-Make-Your-Own-Bacteriostatic-Water
The nasal sprayer sprays ~0.1ml per spray. I worked the math out so i'm getting 800mcg per spray, but i'd guess more like 750mcg.
And a note - Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using sodium hydroxide - at least the more expensive Benzyl alcohol is. And that's safe. But cheaper Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using formaldehyde, so at the end of the day I would go for a saline based nasal spray instead of benzyl alcohol-based, because you never know how the Benzyl alcohol you purchase was synthesized. Though, if you're kind of reckless like me, you can just use BA because it's been found that low dose formaldehyde doesn't really have much negative effect on animals. You can find recipes/ratios for a saline solution. The goal of having a sodium or Benzyl Alcohol is to keep away microbes.
Good luck, I hope it helps you :)
For all you inquiring minds in the future, I don't want any broken links for you, so here they are in order of their presence in my post:
Nasal sprayer wayback link: https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150343/https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721011&sr=1-2&keywords=snoot+amber
Benzyl alcohol wayback link (just so you know what's what): https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150622/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_s_it?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=hXAX8&pf_rd_r=2Z2D6GE7C08G7Q8Q85AW&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01C86CQFA&pd_rd_w=DhX5q&pf_rd_i=benzyl+alcohol&pd_rd_r=e731e3c2-a7b4-446b-9b8f-9d768494536a&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721062&sr=1
Bluelight nasal spray recipe wayback link: WB isn't playing nice, so here's a pastebin of the OP: https://pastebin.com/raw/XXjWvENz
Looks like they are referral links, but they're not mine. Must have got a referral bug or something from a stray cookie. Sorry! edit: nvm, i was being lazy. fixed the ref links so they're not ref links. At least the original links I fixed, too lazy to rearchive using wayback, sorry lol
What? They didn't die, and the key ingredients are widely available.
Butyl alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Laboratory-Grade-Sec-Butyl-Alcohol-500mL-Collection/dp/B07JCF2214/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=butyl+alcohol&qid=1563574430&s=gateway&sprefix=butyl+al&sr=8-4
Sodium nitrite: https://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Nitrite-Powder-Space-Saver-Bottles/dp/B014J1O46Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=sodium+nitrite&qid=1563574472&s=gateway&sprefix=sodium+ni&sr=8-8
Hydrochloric acid: https://www.amazon.com/LabChem-LC152202-Hydrochloric-Acid-Solution/dp/B01BKWSA44/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=hydrochloric+acid&qid=1563574512&s=gateway&sprefix=hydroch&sr=8-3
Water, baking soda, a stir plate and some glassware. If you like to preserve longer, you can go the extra mile and dry with molecular sieve: https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Molecular-Sieve-Zeolite-8X12m/dp/B06Y2B4CPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=chemical+sieve&qid=1563574672&s=industrial&sr=8-3
I see this sort of post all the time, "poppers don't hit like they used to because wah". Dude you built a tolerance! Deal with it or better yet make your own.
Just exactly how much are you looking for, and at what price point? WhiteWaterResearch has 30ml bottles for $10 a piece, but I assume you tryin to do better than that, no?
EDIT: Here's how you can make your own:
Distilled water: https://www.amazon.com/RPI-W20525-4000-0-Distilled-Water-4L/dp/B07D5JRMM3/ref=sr_1_8
Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Benzyl-Alcohol-Grade-Sterile-Bottle/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=pd_cp_328_1
Mix the above in a 99-to-1 ratio.
You can get 99% far cheaper than that. Isopropyl Alcohol Grade 99% Anhydrous - 4 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KK014F4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_58rgzbPWD5Y59 this is less than 7¢ an ounce. And probably enough for your entire backpacking career ;)
That's a really broad question; you're doing a good job, here, by asking specifically for what you need help with. Sadly "how do I get the belt on there" has a broad answer - you just have to keep disassembling until you see a way through.
I really don't mean to be snarky or rude.
"Water based solutions to clean the inside" where did you get this strange notion?
For general cleaning, use 99% isopropyl.
For contacts and switches, use Deoxit.
Basically - if you have specific questions, then people can do their best to help you. There isn't any "HERE'S HOW TO FIX OLD TAPE DECKS" guide out there.
I think that percentage is far more important, as a result I buy 99.9% isopropyl. Other things, such as rubbing alcohol (70%) or even 90% stuff... That other 10% seems to be water and a small amount of oils.
I once tested this by pouring some in a CLEAN glass and seeing what residue is left after it evaporates. That remaining gunk is not stuff I want left behind, especially on brake parts, so I use the purest stuff I can easily buy.
Specifically, this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/
https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-99-9-Percent-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-99-9-High-Purity-Gallon-packed-in-4-qts-/111336493723 <Cheap
banana
apples
pears
The direction I would immediately dart towards would be, buying a sodium chloride solution in a 10/20/30ml bottle, then add the appropriate amount of Benzyl alcohol to make it bacteriostatic.
That's all you need todo. Here..
Just take those vials, and add .09ml of Benzyl Alcohol
Here's a calculator to make things even SIMPLER
Going to have to fry those headphones.High concentration isopropyl alcohol99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol
OP delivers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Let them know exactly what happend and seek an RMA if possible as others suggest.
If no RMA is provided, you should clean that socket using high purity isopropyl alcohol. You can normally get it at a pharmacy in "medical grade". Or you can buy electronics grade in aerosol can or liquid to thoroughly rinse out and flush the socket.
As far as Eureka, Florida is too humid for it to grow properly.
The greening disease treatment includes a foliage nutrition spray of nano-zinc (not available in stores and complicated to make, I use chelated zinc/iron instead), DMSO, and brassinolide. Research shows that bacterial concentrations do not decrease but greening symptoms are reversed.
https://www.amazon.com/Brassinolide-Soluble-Instructions-Power-Grown/dp/B078WM7CC6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?hasWorkingJavascript=1&amp;keywords=brassinolide&amp;qid=1570638170&amp;sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Bottles-DMSO-99-995-Pharma-Grade/dp/B01MFDSRE9/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=dmso&amp;qid=1570638213&amp;sr=8-17
https://www.amazon.com/Liquinox-3032-Chelated-Solution-32-Ounce/dp/B0063PG40G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=chelated+iron+zinc&amp;qid=1570638244&amp;sr=8-1
These three can be combined into one spray. Add amounts according to instructions.
Additionally for control of psyllids, you can use Spinsosad, follow the instructions on the container.
https://www.amazon.com/Monterey-LG6135-Garden-Spinosad-Concentrate/dp/B000BWY3OQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=spinosad&amp;qid=1570638314&amp;sprefix=spinso&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (electronics cleaner). Works great,
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jIFPAb1ZECD8F
Not sure what solder you used, but that looks like flux. Isopropyl alcohol (like this) should work fine as a cleaner.
Actually, one can completely disassemble most models in about a half hour by following a guide.
I would disassemble, clean everything non electronic with soap and water. Electronic components can be cleaned with distilled water and 99% alcohol. It is most important that any electronic component be completely dry when reassembling.
https://www.amazon.com/Swan-M314-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99/dp/B00NMPLSZ6
What you want is anhydrous isopropyl
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the whole the inside. It's safe for Electronics and will make it look like new. I would use a krylon paint on the rusty screws after removing the rust.
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xyE1DbQ5BGQWF
You can get it easy on Amazon, there are hundreds of brands to chose from.
This is what I use, since it contains no water and is 99.9%. use gloves though, it will dry the crap out of skin.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504808917&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=99+isopropyl+alcohol
Unfortunately that depends on the glue type used. This is going to sound odd but stay with me. If it seemed like a gooey/tacky adhesive you can just pry it off slowly and it will likely just tear away. If it seems solid then it may be a CA glue or similar substance that will come apart best with a bit of debonder.
But if you aren't particularly worried about the case you can use a box cutter and slowly with a decent amount of force cut around the entirety of the seam to free up most adhesive. Then use something like a hair dryer or heat source of some kind to soften the plastic as you try and pry the face off. The heat only makes it less likely for the plastic to break.
Does that help?
You can get powdered MC for quite cheap on Amazon. I bought a pound (like this) and still have a lot left after years of using it. It's very difficult to mix it by hand, so I use an immersion blender. I don't measure it out, but I can tell you I start with a cup or two of water, add a spoonful, blend, and keep adding and blending until I like the consistency. You want it to have a thick, viscous, gluey consistency that won't leave your paper sodden but it still needs to be thin enough to easily spread.
I wouldn't recommend dipping, instead brush it on in a thin layer. You can use brushes but your fingers will work just fine. MC dissolves readily in water and isn't hard to clean up afterwards. Work on a hard, flat, clean surface. It's ok to rest MC treated origami on a surface, if it sticks it can be carefully peeled off without damage.
The moisture in the MC will affect the paper as you work and cause parts to splay apart, so you'll likely want to use binder clips and the like to hold parts in place after treatment. This is particularly true on thin appendages with lots of layers. On parts like this where you want the layers to adhere to each other, you can even brush MC between the layers. If the model is becoming too difficult to work with you may want to stop, let it dry, then continue to work on the remainder.
After your MC dries, the paper will be more sculptable and you can continue to apply shaping. You can apply a little water to make portions of the piece more pliable again and can even apply additional MC to parts as needed.
Here's a frilled lizard I folded a while back, with a "before" pic of the model drying after MC application below it. You can also see the liberal use of binder clips and how the back leg I didn't clip was splaying apart from the moisture.
We always used the plain stuff, like so:
We used j-lube a lot too, but we weren't really pumping it into people or anything. Likewise, I think most of the actors considered douching/enema as part of their clean up routine. (I know douching isn't exactly highly-recommended, but this kinda stuff was the exception more than the rule.)
I'd expect that you could just mix in a bit of whatever lube you prefer and it would act intuitively.
Believe it or not... Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Lab-Grade-Methylene-Blue-Powder-25g/dp/B077T7HBSF
As for dosing, that's your problem. I'm NOT recommending it at all.
Thanks again, this is all very helpful. I was thinking i might have to go ACS, and Reagent grade since Spirulina absorbs heavy metals apparently.
I was kinda torn between getting cheaper ingredients now for fish use and upgrading later for selling quality, but now I think I'm defiantly looking to be able to sell (Spirulina and Zarrouk). So I'll be looking into the ratings. However, resources like your link will be useful for cheaper options for fish food. Tbh I'll probably experiment more with common garden fertilizers and such for this purpose.
Also, I'ts kinda awkward to be searching for "food grade" Boric Acid. So far even Quality ACS Boric Acid warns not for Food use.
&#x200B;
For others looking, so far the items I've found and am considering purchasing are as follows:
Dipotassium hydrogen phosphate
Sodium nitrate
Potassium Sulfate
Calcium Chloride
ethylene diamino tetracetic acid
&#x200B;
Solution A:
Boric Acid
Manganese (II) Chloride Tetrahydrate (MnCl2 . 4 H2O )
Zinc Sulfate
Copper Sulfate
Molybdenum oxide
I'll try to make a complete edited list after some more research.
I bought 4 gallons from Amazon. It's laboratory grade. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KK014F4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Then what's this?
And this?
I bought some awhile back on Amazon that was made by a well known maker of laboratory reagents, so I'd consider it lab grade. Some discussion here at the time discouraged me from using it, suggestion it might have heavy metal contamination. However, I have heard counterarguments that suggested the lab grade should be plenty pure since it would need to have a certain purity to not interfere with with chemical reactions.
Lastly, there is a lengthy longecity thread where the folks were experimenting with MB/Taurine/Olive leaf to inhibit amyloid. Longecity members, some were using fish tank MB, but then some of those guys seem pretty reckless sometimes in their N=1 experiments.
I was wondering if anybody here could provide some extra insight as to whether the lab grade stuff I have would be safe or not. I don't have it in front of me, but I believe the company that made it was this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077T7HBSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1#detail-bullets
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MSDS sheet from company:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71rMsrYM89L.pdf
This cleans it in a flash along with coarse sea salt
Some drug stores or other places that sell cleaning supplies. Amazon is good too, Most recently I bought 4 quarts on there.
If you can't get 99, 90% is nearly as good.
Enabling the 7x7 mode on my MK3 gave me such good bed adhesion that I don't need to use glue stick anymore. Now I just spray the bed with a some 99% alcohol and then print. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use acetone on mine.
You can try some anhydrous IPA if you want to try something a bit less harsh.
Try to avoid acetone used for cosmetics, they tend to have things like perfumes in them that will only make your life sad.
Here are links to the fluids I like to use for cleaning:
IPA http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Acetone http://www.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-84032-1-Quart-Acetone/dp/B000C02AW4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394475871&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=acetone
Particularly on a hot print bed, make sure you are in a very well ventilated area during use.
Hmm. Your reply isn't showing up in my app for some reason, but I get it from a local warehouse. They get it in huge volume, I get this size bottle (same brand) for $14 CAD. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005DNQX3C/
Edit: it's not always MG, sometimes it's a different brand but I don't recall the name. I use MG for flux and solder too so I remember the brand.
You're welcome—will definitely share the link when it's available. One thing I should have mentioned is that if you try DMSO, do not use anything plastic with it, as it will absorb compounds out of the plastic. Always go with glass and metal. You can get it on Amazon for cheap. This is the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BSYQ0XC/. Apparently, it's used extensively with horses, so if you have a feed shop nearby, that might be an option, too.
Oh, and as other people have said, try to avoid eating for five or six hours beforehand. That's a Terence McKenna tip. No need to fast, but just take them on an empty stomach.
Hmm. okay. I saw a Youtube video that recommended this product, but that was for making an RSO wax/oil consistency, so maybe he used it because all the alcohol is evaporated off..
A life changer: anhydrous alcohol. Because it’s 99.9% alcohol, it evaporates essentially on contact when compared with ISO you might have used. I clean flat planes to be joined with a dab on a paper towel, then a microfiber cloth, then a quick jet of air. That might sound like a lot, but it’s genuinely less than 20 seconds per joint in cleaning time.
thanks for the response! thats really helpful. Would something like this be ok? also, would it be necessary to rub into the skin or could i drop on the tongue? thanks in advance.
https://www.amazon.com/DMSO-Bottle-99-995-Dimethyl-Sulfoxide/dp/B01BSYQ0XC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2I4RGETO9DBBX&keywords=dmso+pharmaceutical+grade+99%25&qid=1566909987&s=gateway&sprefix=DMSO+phar%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7
Also, you may just want to check amazon. You can buy gallons of the stuff.
EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Isopropyl-Alcohol-Grade-99-Anhydrous/dp/B01KK014F4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518166353&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=isopropyl+alcohol+99&amp;psc=1
We can possess all this in Canada, as long as it's for research and not consuming it ;)
For a cutting cycle of SARMS I was about to go for a stack :
SR-9009
GW
Mk-2866
I only want to take it orally, so replacing SR-9009 would be useful IMO based on what you tell me RN.
What would be the best thing to replace SR for ?
LGD ? RAD ? MK-677 ?
Also would these be good to make solutions :
PEG-400
Propylene Glycol
Got mine from Amazon, there's also a bigger bottle on that page that's cheaper, but no sprayer on it.
UK Amazon links
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004SPJP5O/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g328_i1_sh
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g328_i2_sh
This should work. It's not reagent grade, but I don't think the .09% difference will make a difference in a non-lab setting. The introduced impurities from the q-tip would make it a moot point anyway.
https://smile.amazon.com/Polyethylene-Glycol-400-USP-Grade/dp/B077NY8W3N/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=PEG+400&amp;qid=1558363562&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8
Got my PEG 400 here, 4oz for ~$13
They also sell 8oz and 16oz
No problem! This is what I use, FYI: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491506569&amp;sr=8-22&amp;keywords=isopropyl+alcohol+99
You could probably find it cheaper.
It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)
It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/
I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.
I get this at my local electronics supply store.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sxin_4_af-pna-1_62923c0178d6e9db158fae689c2f6f4db5144ae2?keywords=99%25+isopropyl+alcohol&pd_rd_i=B005DNQX3C&pd_rd_r=ce7be55f-216b-445b-bbc0-57b6baa56402&pd_rd_w=JFyRx&pd_rd_wg=peUrn&pf_rd_p=3892bc23-5fa8-4a18-8855-22c23bd2e202&pf_rd_r=DJRGCQQGH1Y2PMVP7JP8&qid=1573927863
Super easy. Make sure you use caution and wear proper safety gear ;-)
https://smile.amazon.com/Hexane-ACS-Reagent-Grade-Gallon/dp/B00OKP6XHU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550985185&sr=8-2&keywords=hexane
Everclear will bring through more plant matter because it is only 95% alcohol (or 76% if your state doesnt allow the real stuff). I would highly recommend getting 99% iso from amazon. Dont listen to anyone who says the flavor isnt as good with iso. If you use 99.9%, it all evaporates anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C
If you use everclear, your oil will be an undesireable shade of green due to bringing through the water soluble parts of the plant
No matter how bad things get there will always be 2 things that you can trust: physics and economics.
> Not so long ago I read about a project somewhere in the world of creating collective graves of people to save space.
Why though? We will have less space for bodies. But that will simply raise the cost of burials. Cremations are already popular for economic reasons. Cremations will become more popular long before we "run out" of space.
> but also devalue the value of life
The value of life has been steadily increasing across almost all of human history. Unalienable rights. Banning slavery. The falling birth rate and the ever increasing effort we put towards raising children. The death sentence is on the way out. Universal healthcare has entered the world stage. But the past can't always predict the future. Who knows what the next 100 years will bring.
> the recycling of human beings for energy or food. Probably energy first.
Okay no. There is no energy associated with the human body. We are 70% water and there is no energy in water. The rest of us is salt and calcium and iron. There is no energy there either.
Do we use cows or pigs for energy? Sure 100 years ago we used horses and mules but that was from physical labor and they needed to be alive for that. A $200 solar panel can easily produce just as much energy as a human laborer and doesn't need food.
> wouldn't it be conceivable that if they die in the streets someone would pick them up and bring them to an incinerator?
Well no. 1st they'd go to a morgue. Cause of death, contact family. Then the family would likely take them to an incinerator because cremations are only going to get more popular over time. But cremation requires energy.
> those subjects would be diverted towards a food processing plant instead.
Generally speaking you don't eat animals that have died of disease or old age. It might be "free" but the quality would be terrible. There is more livestock than people so it isn't like we have a need for it either.
Now if you lived on a space station and humans were the only form of mammal within a million miles.... even then no. Your water would be reclaimed but it probably won't be worth the trouble of separating out all the other minerals.
> The body itself is valuable for medicinal purposes. It could be sold to a facility that then processes what it can for research/transplants/other purposes and then recycles the rest as energy.
Organ donation already exists. And so does donating your body to science. There is no energy to recycle. What you describe is the status quo.
> You could gift this money to your loved ones or pay someone to kill that person you always hated.
Ignoring the idea that murder and taking out contracts both suddenly become legal that doesn't make any economic sense.
> Most valuable is Potassium at ca 100 USD per body.
Wat. Look at this. There is only 140 grams of potassium in there. Here is KCl. About 53% or 260 grams of potassium in there. And it is $30. The 140 grams in a body would be $16. And this is small quantities from amazon. A bulk chemical supplier would have it for 5x cheaper.
> 45 million USD according to the Wired article, if all of it is in tip top condition.
It is also presuming that human organ selling suddenly becomes legal and black market prices don't crash. Either it will stay illegal and you won't be able to do it or it becomes legal and everyone does it and devalues the market.
But the price of organs has no bearing on the value of human life. The mineral content of a human body is only like $40 worth of minerals. We value human life as much more than the sum of its parts.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C
It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.
Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).
After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.
I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.
Keep us posted, this looks like fun.
alcohol will readily evaporate. Once the alcohol has "extracted" (pulled all the good shit) out of the plant matter, just let it sit out for a day or so. Applying heat will accelerate this process. it will evaporate and leave a gooey resin on your plate (or Pyrex dish). scrape (razor blade) and smoke. your done. Aside from golden grain you can also use this. Just don't drink it.
I use rubbing alcohol( Isopropyl Alcohol 92%) but you’re supposed to use Isopropyl Alcohol 99% for electronics. Swan M314 Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%, 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMPLSZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.s4CDbEGX60BY
I’ll be getting that one when mine is out.
https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Lab-Supply-Benzyl-Alcohol/dp/B077HH1VZD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=benzyl+benzoate+alpha+labs&amp;qid=1564714889&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Benzyl-Benzoate-Purity-Fragrance-Compound/dp/B00V8BR1P2/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2/144-3562754-9422663?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00V8BR1P2&amp;pd_rd_r=d0fa51ac-5da2-4883-aecb-e14cc99aecb7&amp;pd_rd_w=95YKR&amp;pd_rd_wg=Cpj3l&amp;pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&amp;pf_rd_r=AWB0038Q0S40JBY4QKYT&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AWB0038Q0S40JBY4QKYT
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2aZUDbPD21WNS
I cant find the youtube video I watched to fix my controllers.. it seems to be removed. But a few drops of this stuff (safe to use on electronics - it dries very fast) into the base of the joystick. You have to lift the rubber flap with a toothpick while you apply a few drops. Then just swirl the joypad clockwise and counterclockwise for 30 seconds to a minute. I have fixed all 3 of my controllers with drifts using this method.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
This one is good