Best power rotary tool attachments according to redditors

If you search "flexible drill extension" on amazon there's a bunch, just not as cheap.


Buwico makes this cheapo one for $7.99


Dremel makes a nicer-quality one for $25.99, which seems to be the going price for all similar products

I think this is the same kit that I used:
Dremel 689-01 11-Piece Rotary Tool Carving and Engraving Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9T4C0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_PE8ODbB91W7G3

I used the smallest ones.

Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V263Bb572K5XA

Best tool I've ever bought for my dremel ever

direct spam-bypassing link

promo code: EOSHJ6LA

You need a flexible shaft rotary tool and a place to use it that you can gently run a trickle of water on the area being cut. I've seen a shower stall pan used, it has a large flat surface with a drain in the middle. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000302Y8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Yea it's electric. It's not really a nail filer though... more of a rotary tool for general use. This is the model I have. It comes with a lot of different attachments: wire bushes, sanding drums, grinding stones, grinding wheels, small rotary files or burrs, maybe some more stuff so it's pretty useful around the house too.

My mom got me into it because she's involved with greyhound rescue groups and their nails are in really bad shape when they come off the tracks. Using clippers, they had way too many blood-spraying, dog-helping-in-pain-accidents. Clippers are easy to overshoot your intended cut and cut the quick and they're also known for splitting nails in half or muliple pieces, either right when you cut it or if they snag a small piece on the carpet it can rip off the splintered part of the nail.

My mom swears by [this extension](
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HS02GVFVQ5Z8AQDSF7G) that allows the noise of the electric motor to be a few feet away. I don't have one these.


Then when you run out of sanding drums that came with your dremel, you can but a lifetime supply for [$8.99]
(http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-sand-coarse-Mandrel-dremel/dp/B00564U22G/ref=pd_sim_469_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=41G2GNphVlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0YAGTNM5J58CC1PVN0B9)

Edit: Dremel must have caught on, they now sell a specific pet grooming model. I can't speak for it but it looks quite a bit smaller than mine, I'll admit mine is a little overkill but I use it for other things too.

this dremel bit is nice since it will leave a little dimple in the peg to hold the ball bearing.

3/32" Ball High Speed Cutter / Engraving Bit (1/8" Shank)

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-709-01-110-Super-Accessory/dp/B003BIFMKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375524787&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+bit+set

• that bit set has everything you need for this job, and costs way less than buying even the bits alone. pair that with the dremel of your choice (I'd stick with actual dremel brand stuff as I'm not sure if the bits are interchangeable.) and that'll be everything you need to fix not only that cymbal, but a Ron Swanson quality amount of other things around your home.

Small pry bar http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=HT+BARS&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=55-045&SDesc=7%26%2334%3B+Wonder+Bar%26%23174%3B+II+Pry+Bar

Drill (Wired is way more powerful)

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=341

Dremal

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-6-50-120-Volt-Variable-Speed/dp/B002L3RUW0/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1299171220&sr=1-3

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-710-02-160-Piece-Accessory/dp/B002L3RUWA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1299171330&sr=1-8

Yes you need this many bits.

Miter box

http://stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=MITRE+BOX&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=20-800&SDesc=Adjustable+Angle+Clamping+Mitre+Box

And

http://stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=MITRE+BOX&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=20-112&SDesc=Clamping+Mitre+Box

Jig saw

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=1131

Alan keys

Pipe cutters

Staple gun

http://stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=HT%5FCONS%5FFAST&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=CT10X&SDesc=Stanley%26%23169%3B+Heavy+Duty+1%2F4%22+Cable+Tacker

Nail gun

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Bostitch-CPACK1850BN-18-Gauge-Compressor/dp/B0031ZDYTU/ref=sr_1_27?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1299171945&sr=1-27

Have a look. I pick cheapest ones for part time work.

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Home/

http://stanleytools.com

Edit: Links

Your welcome

1. Sand it post-mounting.
   
   
2. I used a small vice grip to grab them and wiggle them out. Some came easy, some snapped off, but for a lot of my ships I was using the Dremel a little to create a flat surface, so no big deal.
   
   
3. I use engraving bits from this kit.

I'd just stipple it. I can tell you what to buy and how to do it including the borders. You'll need the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-107-Engraving-Cutter-Shank/dp/B00008Z9ZV/ or https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-106-Engraving-Cutter-8-Inch/dp/B00008Z9ZU
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-120-volt-Variable-Attachment-Accessories/dp/B075174NCV/ (you may have your own dremel, but definitely get a flex shaft for it)
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-401B3-Multi-Grit-Diamond-Medium/dp/B00U0E0KRE
https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Grinding-Polishing-Accessories-Attachment/dp/B078Y5XGM8 (careful with these, light touch and keep it moving)
https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Multi-Purpose-Fiberglass-Aluminum-Sterling/dp/B000MUSOW4

First use your engraving cutter to cut the borders that you've drawn on with a water-removable Stabilo marking pencil. Try to cut as smoothly as possible, with a steady hand. Don't try to cut it all at once, be patient (be patient for all of this, it took me a whole week doing a little at a time to complete the whole process, and turning my dremel off periodically because I have an older model flex shaft that gets hot after some use - solved this by wrapping the grip with bicycle inner tube)
The smoother you cut it the easier the rest will be. Some people just use the engraving cutter for borders, but I followed someone's guide and then used the diamond burs to smooth it out and polish it. Go from the lowest grit to the highest. You can either use the ball bits that are the same size as your cutter, or use the rounded cylinder bits. You can angle the cylinder bits in certain ways to get around curved surfaces, you'll kind of have to experiment with that. Once you get to the highest grit, I found that the only way to get it near-glass smooth was to apply a lot of pressure. It doesn't remove much material and you kind of want it to heat up the plastic to get it smooth. Then, still not satisfied with this, I got those felt wheels and cut the very tip off the smallest one, and used a bit of flitz paste, and then went over all the borders. That got it close enough for me. You can get more advice from the Weapons Stippling group on Facebook.


After you do the borders, I use the round tip on the walnut hollow wood burner on a medium heat setting. You don't want it too hot, not with the P80 plastic anyway. My technique was to press in, not too much but just enough, and drag downwards. A random totally pattern is best, I did a somewhat orderly snake pattern and then went over it again and smeared it out to give it a more organic texture. Then I went over it one more time, lightly and fastly rubbing all along the surface to blend the ridges that were created into the rest of the texture. You can do this several times to get it just right. The result is a texture that is grippy, yet not rough. That's how I like it, but you can experiment. The key is not to heat it up too much and don't stick any of the tips in too deep, and don't try to do it perfectly ordered unless you've gotten good at that with practice and are using an appropriate tip. You can make your own tips out of #8-32 brass screws or buy blanks from OT Defense, or some other place.

Glass worker here.

Since you dont have any glass working tool i would recommend using a Dremmel and a diamond bit. ( http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7105-Diamond-Point-Shank/dp/B00004UDJ6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418924034&sr=1-6&keywords=dremel+diamond+point&pebp=1418924039196)

With a sharpie draw an exact sized circle for the down stem you want. I would buy the down stem and gromit first to size the hole.
Submerge the bottle in a shallow plastic tub water so that there is about 1/4" -1/2" of water above it. Put a towel(ie) in the bottom of the tub to keep the bottle from moving.

Safety glasses and gloves please!!

When you apply the bit to the glass you want to use very little pressure. The heat build up from the bit is what will crack the glass.
Do Not Force It!
Slowly work a small hole into the sharpie dot you have made. Once you have pierced the glass you are through the hardest part.
then you just slowly work the hole to the size you want.
Take your time!
Go Slow!
Practice on another bottle several times.
Thats it!

Making the hole clean and symmetrical is going to be the hardest part!

Not really, and not becuase I think they are all crud, but because I never watched any. I just sort of hopped in. Best advice I can think of is

1. Make sure your magnets are the right fit, not too small and not too big. Those little 1x1x1mm cubes are cool, but weak compared to the 1/16inch magnets. These are what I buy for most everything I also have the little cubes, but only for magnetizing tiny stuff like combi weapons. My LGS sells magnets/drill bit kits from P3 I think.
   
   
2. Make sure your polarity matches. Some people will mark one side of all the magnets, others don't. I have some dummy marines who are magnetized.
   
   
3. Check the depth of the hole before you place the magnet in. Nothing sucks more than a glued magnet that isn't quite in all the way.
   
   I would start with a hand drill unless you have the know how and money for a dremel. I use a flex detachment, but I also have a decent chunk of dremel bits, like a really tiny buzz saw, which is AMAZING.

What are you doing with the Dremel? The only time I use it like a pen is for engraving & I use the flex shaft attachment. Anything else is either a vertical or horizontal grip & not at all pen-like.

I know Foredom is (or was) the "go to" option for woodcarvers and others doing similar work - but like all high-end tools, it comes with the price tag. Likely to last forever, but also might be overkill for model-making.

I ended up getting the flex shaft for the Dremel:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8

Does the job, and easier than holding the Dremel for fine work. You can get the adjustable 3-jaw chuck on there, otherwise it has a chuck with interchangeable inserts.

Does all I need it to do in terms of sanding, grinding, drilling, etc - and was a cheap option as I already had the Dremel, which may not be a factor for you. You then have the option of using the Dremel as a handheld tool for other jobs.

there are at least 2-3 of this (almost) exact model with different brands floating around on Amazon, most likely sourced from China.

The one good thing this has is a "flex shaft" which I've purchased individually and higher quality versions of.

It is really helpful for getting impossible to reach spaces (like inside a PC case) or anything around your house.

And for you Dremel fans, Dremel has a nice flex shaft extension:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491852439&sr=8-5&keywords=flex+shaft

Wow! At first I thought the branch was real until I read your comment about the leaves being maple with green sharpie.

Do you ever use one of those dremel flex shaft attachments? Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dremel+attachment&qid=1557652236&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A dremel maybe? I'd make a little jig for the extension cable (see amazon ) but there's Dremel brand adapters & tools you might be interested in.

Dremel 689-01 11-Piece Rotary Tool Carving and Engraving Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9T4C0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SS8GDb59D42FQ

This is the exact set I'm using currently. 107 and 7103 were the two I used most. Did a bit of finishing/leveling with 7134.

(NOTE: The part numbers I'm referring to are on the second image on the listing.)

Drilling under water with a diamond bit and with a towel at the bottom of the sink works well. Glass breaks pretty quick sometimes when it gets hot and vibrates. The water limits the Dremel/drill vibration and cools the glass. The towel is not just for smacking the bottom (which you will do), but also for leverage. I used one of these attached to the dremel.
*edit for formatting

I recently went through an exercise on looking at the kits.

The 710-02 and 710-05 seem to be the same thing.
The 710-08 is missing the Abrasive buffs (511E/512E) and a cut off wheel (540) and has some extra sanding disks. Its also got different shape grinding stones.

So very minor differences. I would see which is better price (looks to be the 08) and get that.

BTW you can see a comparison of the different size kits on this page. I found the 709-02 kit was less sanding focused and picked that (not interested in EZ-lock parts)

Let me preface by saying this is a serious poorman's lapidary technique. Any better tools you can afford for the job will make it easier. For example, I'd really like to get a flex shaft to increase the distance between the tool and the wetness. It's really not safe to work wet with the dremel, but we do so cautiously.

USE WATER, WORK WET. Inhaling stone dust is very, very, very bad.

We have this model because we got it for free.

And we're using these bits, for no other reason than that they were cheap.

The final step is wet diamond emery abrasive pads and cerium oxide for polishing.

I bought this kit and a keyless chuck. It's been able to do everything I've needed - including cutting down the fish filters for ceramic wicks.

You could use the reinforced disk to cut/grind out the air channels in the MVP and you can buy a cheap drill bit to drill out the RSST.

>Flex Shaft

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302Y8/

I was unable to find it :(

There were similar models on Amazon but they looked cheap and like the light was an after-thought.

The only thing I can offer is a few tips I've learned over the last 2 years.

---------

If your dog does not act too crazy during the trimming I recommend just going slowly. Edit: Not too slow because the grinder can get hot. Make sure to let it and the nail "breathe"

It's tough at first but I learned to trim the blackest of nails with no additional light. Plus if you use the nail grinder and go slow when you first get to the quick (or root) it will only bleed a tiny bit, which is easy to stop with flour, corn-starch, or "Professional Blood Stop Powder"

You'll also learn the look of the root being exposed so you can stop right before. As you grind the nail away, the newly exposed nail- I always describe it as "tree rings". You'll see them change size and color and as they look more "fresh" and "lively" you're getting to the blood supply.

Edit:
Also, a powerful grinder like a Dremel on a higher speed may be better. Slower speeds and weaker motors can cause more vibration which some dogs do not like.

I also use 120 Medium Grit Sanding Drums because they seem to work the best most of the time. You don't want a rougher grit because it will "rip" and "tear" he nail apart (not as dramatic as it sounds but still not desireable) and finer grits will take longer and can get hotter during the process.

:)

You could have saved if you got everything off Amazon:

Dremel 4000 = $73

15 100mm x 3mm brass rods = $8

36 Sheets of sandpaper = $8

Flex Shaft = $20

12 Euro Tools Needle Files = $14

2 Day trial of Amazon Prime (Includes free 2 day shipping) = $2

The files are more expensive than the $3 ones you find in Harbor Freight but you get two of every nice and sharp profile Including the Knife that helps you to get into tight spaces to make things like ASSA Gin Spools!

Engraving bits


Flex Shaft attachment


EZ Lock cutinng wheel kit

Build list:

Zev Dragonfly Slide

Trijicon RMR 06 Type 2

Zev Glock 19 Dimpled Bronze Match Barrel

AmeriGlo GL-429 Suppressor Sights

TTI Spring Kit

SSVi Tyr Trigger

Glock OEM Minus Connector

​

Tools used:

Wood Burner

Dremel Micro Max 8050

Dremel Bit 108 Engraving Cutter

Dremel Polishing Kit

Sand Paper Assortment

Flitz Polish

for the shaping a basic carving tool. for the indents I used a bit like this http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-107-Engraving-Cutter-Shank/dp/B00008Z9ZV/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1314083870&sr=8-11

This. They sound super handy but in actuality mine spends most of its time in a drawer. But, I have many other tools like an actual angle grinder, pneumatic cut-off tool, sander, etc. so if I didn't already have these it might see more use.

The flexible shaft attachment has saved my butt a handful of times when I needed to grind/drill off something in a tight area.

> needle dremel bit

something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9929-Engraver-Diamond-Point/dp/B00004UDJU

DO NOT, I repeat, do not do that. You will crack the glass. Your torch is not going to put out enough heat to melt that glass and it is going to probably explode. Glass doesn't like drastic changes from solid to liquid. All throughout the process you are going to have expanding and contracting glass not to mention flow (motion) in the glass. For something as thick as that, if too were going to melt and poke a hole, you'd need some pretty serious gear to disperse enough heat to get where you are making the hole hot enough.

Your best bet is going to be a rotary tool like a dremel and a diamond coated bit http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004UDJ5/ref=redir_mdp_mobile. I've used this and a wet paper towel to make countless pieces. It takes patience but the returns of a perfect coffee table piece are well worth it. Take your time and you'll see. Good luck.

And always remember to wear eye protection

You might try getting the flex shaft attachment. It's far enough away that it doesn't freak my dog out, and makes life generally easier

Thank you for submitting to /r/SmallYTChannel. You have spent 3λ to submit here, making your current balance 0λ.
/u/Dave_Ipsen, please comment !givelambda to the most helpful advice you are given. You
will be rewarded 1λ if you do so. For more information, read the FAQ.

Video data:

Field|Data
:-|:-
Title|Making A Tiny Viking Sword From Pieces of Scrap Metal
Thumbnail|Link
Views|66
Length|05:58
Likes/Dislikes|15/0
Comments|13
Description|In this week's video on The Ideas Guy, I take some pieces of scrap metal and forge, grind, sand and polish them into a tiny viking sword. Besides the adorable size (it's adorable, seriously) it accurately shows how many viking swords did actually look in history. Join me in making a tiny sword for all the tiny vikings of the world lol :)⤶⤶If you are interested in some of the tools I use in this video, follow these links to buy your own!⤶⤶Dremel 3000 Tool:⤶https://amzn.to/2Jot7tq⤶⤶Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment:⤶https://amzn.to/2JBaYbY⤶⤶⤶#theideasguy #tinyviking #modelviking #vikingsword #scrapmetal #imadeit

Channel Data:

Field|Data
:-|:-
Name|The Ideas Guy
Thumbnail|Link
Subscribers|205
Videos|23
Views|3449



^/u/SmallYTChannelBot ^made ^by ^/u/jwnskanzkwk. ^PM ^for ^bug ^reports. ^For ^more ^information, ^read ^the ^FAQ.

I don't see anything called a "dremel pen". Maybe you mean something like this?

Dremel Flex Shaft Rotary Tool Attachment with Comfort Grip and 36" Long Cable- 225-01- Engraver, Polisher, and Sander- Ideal for Detail Metal Engraving, Wood Carving, Sanding, and Jewelry Polishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QG-JDb0MBRBF1

I would totally say "OMG YAAAAAAAY!!!!" if I were to receive either Cards Against Humanity or this great Dremel Flex Shaft attachment for my Dremel, which would help me with my etsy orders! :D

Thank you for the contest! Yay! :D Keep on being awesome!