Best power water pumps according to redditors
We found 127 Reddit comments discussing the best power water pumps. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 127 Reddit comments discussing the best power water pumps. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It’s common enough to use a booster pump for high end, multi head shower setups.... while using one for just a single shower head may not be the intent, long as the head (and related piping) can handle the pressure and flow, no reason why it wouldn’t work.
https://www.amazon.com/KOLERFLO-Pressure-Booster-Automatic-H15GR-15/dp/B07J43CWC3
As for the faucets and such; that you’ll probably have to learn to live with.
Hot Water Recirculation Pump
It's worth it.
You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.
The MkII pump is actually just a "ripoff" as well, if you want to look at it this way. KegLand (AU) did not design or manufacture that pump.
The MkII, the pump in the Grainfather, and many similar looking pumps are all part of the Chinese-made MP-series magnetic drive pump, or knockoffs. There are many manufacturers in China making these. An American company can travel to China or work through an agent in the U.S., EU, AUS/NZ, etc. to contract for a private label pump based on one of this family of pumps. As a part of it, you can choose which pump from this series you want to use as the base model, customize it, get your own decal put on, and then use another agent to have them shipped to your warehouse.
In the case of OP /u/sktyrhrtout, it looks like they made the SS pump head standard equipment rather than an upgrade, and to have a different cord put on (a switched cord). This one's specs seem to indicate it uses less power to get the same flow rate and head, so it's possible the impeller design is a little different. But it's the same or close to the MP-15R pump. Compare this similar product, where the label clearly identifies it as a MP-15RM-110 model pump.
Considering that Amazon protects you from fraud (I think), it seems like a good deal for someone looking for this type of pump. I have a Riptide and a little solar pump, so I'm not in the market.
It's not just about recycling, though. The three Rs are in order: Reduce, reuse, recycle! Recycling is important but it's way better to not make waste in the first place.
Another idea might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2Y8Q
They go on top of those big multi-gallon jugs that you can either refill with tap or your local grocery store might have a filtered water refill station.
Or just get a standard tank and one of these:
Watts 500800 Instant Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer, Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kdwDbZR6E70C
Works quite well for me. I set it up to a smart home plug so it is only running when someone is home.
Certainly is!
CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-IN-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Inline Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 1/2” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKU3ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b3fZCbRV9TKEP
follow the advice given by wise people below.
if you still have lots of water after that. then just buy:
You guys need a hot water recirculating system. Easy to install and not too expensive.
We've been camping with our daughter since she was one. The only "toys" we take are a sand bucket, a toy shovel, a ball and bubbles.
We try to arrive early so we can pick a good campsite. We try to find one where we can use our car as a barricade between our campsite and the road, and one that also has open space behind the designated "campsite". Here are a few pictures of what I mean.
In this picture you can see I kind of parallel parked instead of pulling straight in, lined up with the road, so there is a very obvious line. "Don't go past the car.". (For clarification, the kiddo is in the tent with Dad, and I stepped into the "open area" for a second just to capture this picture. No fires left unattended. Promise.).
When we first took her camping we held her hand close enough to feel the warmth, and told her "This is hot, and you should not touch it. If you do it will hurt.". She helps me cook and is familiar with hot food and the hot stove/oven, so she understand pretty quickly. We also emphasize not running near the fireplace, and that rule seems to have stuck well with her.
In this picture you can see the benefits of the bucket/shovel combo. Our site was actually slanted and a lot of rocks had gone outside of the timber bounds, so we had her hauling rocks back into the campsite the whole time. Leave things better than you found them, eh? She added sticks and called it a tree house. I used the sticks as kindling that night. You can also see why I picked this spot - look at that open play area behind our campsite!
We use a toddler cot for our daughter, and have since she was very young (she's three now). My last suggestions are to have a flashlight just for them, and if they are past the "everything is food" phase, bring glow bracelets. We put one on each limb after dark so that she is easier to see.
We checked out library books about camping before going, and watched a Barney episode about it. That seemed to help, as she knew what to expect and was excited about it.
Plan food, but have a back-up method. It's pretty miserable when you plan on roasting hotdogs, but it's raining and it's taking longer than expected to start the fire and your toddler is pitching a fit. We always take granola bars, those pre-made PB&J frozen sandwiches, and a little stove set up - just in case the fire doesn't work out.
This next bit is not necessary, but it really nice for multiple night stays: We have this 5-gallon jug hand-pump. We take an empty bottle, fill it with potable water at the site, then use it for everything from drinking to hand washing and cooking. Kids are messy and this set-up makes camping a lot more enjoyable for us.
Lastly: commit, but don't over commit. Never get to the point where you are sacrificing sanity for the sake of "fun", and don't spoil the fun for others. During the learning-period we did have to bail once, as it was just becoming too miserable for any one to enjoy.
Good luck, have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. :)
Those robobrews are super popular. I have a Mash and Boil, and I know a few people who own a Grainfather.
Or you could buy an induction heater and use equipment you already have. There's no wrong answer. Also, I got this pump for cheap and it works great for recirculating the mash or moving wort to a fermenter.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
Link to Amazon
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You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.
The blumats have a 30gal resevoir with a pH controller. This has basically cut my weekly work in half. I just top off the res every couple weeks.
That's a 3x3 tray, so that leaves 6 inches on all sides for some pavers to hold up those shelves. I use a transfer pump and wand to feed from 5gal buckets and then pump the runoff out of the tray back into a bucket for reuse outside for my strawberries.
Edit: Here's what it looks like from above
Is there any way to tell is this pump is safe to recirculate wort and whirlpool? Temps seem fine, just don't want any issue with the plastic not being food safe
Since you seem to know what you're doing why not get a non pc specific pump? I know they make small submersible pumps for fish tanks that are very low volume/min and take up nearly no room.
here's a tiny one
Here's another tiny one
This solves your problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Premier-Water-Recirculation/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412538958&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+water+circulation+pump
I have one of these and it's great. I bought a pump like this one which did die on me eventually, but it's much easier to clean and replace since it's not inside the system
This is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_97jMDbBNW8ATX
Amazon
I was planning to make a large sous vide mod, had this planned for circulation
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A014A-Circulation-Supply-Adapter/dp/B01FXDUQR0
A lot more expensive than the little pumps but you probably wouldn't need to replace it either. Also there are are a lot of different power optiond if youd rather wire it in yourself.
Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.
If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.
If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.
My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
I went with this. Saw it mentioned a few times. Seems to be decent.
Schedule 40 PVC is safe as long as you don't let it get moldy.
With that said, I've looked at gravity sinks and it seems like the downsides outweigh the upsides. Water weight high up means the van will be more top heavy and any imbalance will be exaggerated. It also requires quite a bit of support to mount. Being permanent, it's harder to fill. If the van is at an angle, you might not be able to use it (I'm assuming you'll be using a long tube of PVC). It'll be sloshing around while you're driving.
If you're going for water with no electricity, maybe look at something like this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526855465&sr=8-4&keywords=5+gallon+hand+pump
Those are just my thoughts. I speak from reading and looking at them, I haven't used one in person.
For mash circulation, you don't need much. On my small electric system (Mash and Boil) I use one of these.. That has a 2.1 GPM flow rate.
A step up would be the Anvil Pump at 3 GPM flow rate. It also has some added benefits like in line switch.
A further step up would be the MKII Pump with a 5 GPM max flow. I personally think this is the best performance for price (never having used it, and just reading specs).
Currently my favorite topic! The system is entirely reusable and has NO LEAKS, which is incredible. It uses PEX 1/2" piping and "Sharkbite" fittings. The connectors are key: they snap on with no tool! They snap off with a simple tool. And no leaks. They're so perfect for the burn it's hard to believe.
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We bring the water cube empty, and have it filled. The fill is before the build is complete so I have to the footprint survey very correct, as you can't move that thing an inch once filled. The cube's output is PEX-ed to an on-demand pump, exactly like you'd find in an RV. The pump's output is passed through a two-stage filter (first year with the water cube (2015) people kept talking about the taste being weird), and then to a four-way splitter (or "manifold" in plumber-speak): kitchen sink, shower, personal water fill spigot, and misters.
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The misters were new last year and key for unloading extra water during breakdown. Overall my work-level on the water supply is way lower, and people are way more satisfied. I keep greywater levels in control by setting the pressure to the shower and sink fairly low.
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No leaks! I'm still blown away by how perfect the system is for our weird use.
I installed one of these recirculating pumps a few years ago for the same reason.
It has a built in analog timer, but I just set it to always on and use a smart plug to handle the time schedule.
Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.
This is what I use. You have to prime this one manually. I Jerry rigged a switch to it for convenience. There are definitely nicer ones out there but it works great for us.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0
Every tank style hot water heater I have seen or heard of will heat the water, store it, and maintain a temperature. Getting cold water from a hot water line (for some short time) is usually indicative of just cooled water sitting in the pipe between the point of use and the tank.
I think something is wrong with your tank if you have to run the water for 20 minutes before getting hot water. Or perhaps the tank is very far from the shower?
But assuming a working hot water heater, I recommend something like this be installed under the closest sink to the shower. It will pull hot water and pump it into the cold water line. If you set it up correctly on the timer, it will keep the call for hot water set to an optimal time for you (20 min before you wake up). It should keep newly heated water in the hot water pipes between the sink and the tank during the time you set. So you shouldn't have to run the shower long to get hot water, just long enough to clear the cooled water between the sink and shower.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/
The downside is it could impact the water in the house for drinking. Because tanks can collect calcium and other minerals, there could be a higher density of this water in the cold water line put there by the recirculating pump. Just something to think about and research a bit.
If you want to go radical, run a hot water recirculator loop to the sink and back to the water heater. a la Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer This provides rapid hot water response. Then insulating the whole loop reduces energy loss.
Good call. This one's a bit cheaper, if you wire it yourself. Then OP could afford a roaster oven to and a circulator pump to use it with.
I know what you mean about changing reservoirs! Do you have a water transfer pump to drain your system and replenish it? It makes a big difference vs trying to pour water, especially for your back.
This transfer pump is cheap and effective, but it is a tad slow and you'll have to replace it every so often.
I use this one when I need to move a lot of water, since it's much faster.
In practice, I end up using them both.
You're going to want something that will provide 20~30 PSI for drip watering, and something that will handle back pressure. I'd suggest a pump made for agriculture use in sprayers, like this one. PSI is a little high, you'd need a lower pressure one, or a pressure reducer to keep the drip emitters from blowing off the lines.
I’ve used this one with good results. It’s not a great transfer pump, but it’s perfect for cooling. I use it in an ice water bath to temp control my spike fermenter.
Thankfully I have not had a failure. knock on wood The handles have helped me to control the carboy when lifting, moving, and pouring from it. Also if it’s going to be for potable water, something like this will let you not have to always lift it.
Water Bottle Pump - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3unDbQZ3WX93
Think I would just install this
http://www.amazon.com/Grundfos-595916-Horsepower-Comfort-Recirculator/dp/B000JG81AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415804687&sr=1-2&keywords=Grundfos
Buy extra comfort valves and put them where you like, and insulate as much of the pipe as you can.
That accomplishes most of what you want, the pump goes on the water heater, you can buy extra comfort valves separately, and you can just turn it off in mild weather.
So yeah it would use more power three or four months out of the year you would want to run it all the time for freeze ups, but the rest of the year you could just run it on the built in timer, or manually turn it on or off.
you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.
That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.
No this is a little brown pump.
They are cheap and fairly weak.
I would think a chugger should be perfectly capable, how big a hose do you have connected? It says its capable of 18.6ft of head pressure.
Pump and chiller we the best things to be added to our set up.
This is our pump https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-PC2-115-Volt-Portable-Transfer/dp/B000CPZTEK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482552424&sr=8-6&keywords=water+pump
This is our chiller http://www.homebrewing.org/Blichmann-Therminator_p_1282.html
We can transfer from boiling hot to ground temp a whole keggle in a matter of minutes. We can do 60-70 gallons in under 5 hours from first burner to pitching yeast and clean up.
A hot water recirculator might be a better option for you. I dont think anything like that exists, or at least I have never heard of one.
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built/dp/B000E78XHG
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hot-Water-Recirculating-System-with-Built-In-Timer-500800/100426993
Basically just cycles the water through to keep the hot warm
A couple hundred bucks plus install. Something like this. We have one and it is nice. The the shower heats up in seconds.
One thing I'm gonna do this year is buy a couple 5 gallon jugs of water and hang onto them for the season. So much easier than going out last minute for individual bottles which are usually the first to go. Even if you don't have an electric water dispenser, which I don't, you can buy a manual stand or a pump.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-gallon-Manual-Pump-for-Bottle-Water-Drinking-Water-Hand-Pump-Heavy-Duty-Drinking-Water-Pump/106855138
https://smile.amazon.com/Dispenser-Nonscrew-Stainless-Countertop-threaded/dp/B01N9YNUIG/
https://smile.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/
You need one of these. Easy to install and hot water FAST!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E78XHG?vs=1
This is the pump I'm using.
The controller is a custom built BrewManiacEX controller. As mentioned in another comment, I plan on redesigning the PCB I'm using over the next few days, then do a full /r/DIY style build thread.
Here you go:
Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.
Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.
Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.
High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor
Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.
Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
not self priming but sure beats gravity
This is what I use, but almost any transfer pump works. That one is particularly loud, so if I ever need another I will buy a different brand.
It empties half my 125 in less than 15 minutes. I adapted a vacuum tube to the inlet side with parts found at any hardware store. To fill I attach a hose to my shower head with another adapter. I'll post pics of the adapters if anyone is interested.
It's way faster than a python system and doesn't waste water. You can run the output directly to your lawn/garden. Garden hose attaches directly to the input/output. They're also self priming.
Yeah i found this which looks like a lot of people are using for recirc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or if i need a real chugger or something that can stand up to some grain mush. I think ill try it and see.
It's not as strong as the pricier pumps but it does just fine.
I even used one of these on a 5 gallon setup for a while and it was even able to do what I needed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.
Plenty of folks use a little DC pump. I've got one that runs my RIMS machine. It's not specifically certified for food contact, but it's all polypropylene and polyphenylene. Both of which are pretty much inert below 150C.
Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I
I use these since they can run dry and create a lot of pressure so work great for a drip system (they are used to create artificial water pressure in RVs): http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Industrial-Pump-Model-2088-594-154/dp/B0001FAA5Y
You will need to use a sprinkler filter before the pump, as solid particles can damage the pump diaphragm.
I should mention you will see huge gains with a drip system over hand watering. I have it set for one minute every 2 hours and my plants have never looked healthier.
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q
Assuming you mean increasing the volume of water coming from the faucet, then yes. The reason that you'll get cold water from your hot tap for a while is that the water heater is usually pretty far away from the sink. Even if the pipe between the two is well insulated, if you don't use the tap for a while the water sitting in it will cool down. By opening the faucet more, you're moving the old water out of the pipe faster and getting hot water from the heater faster.
If you have to wait a long time for this to happen, you're letting a lot of water go to waste. This can be solved by getting a circulator pump. When installed it pumps water from the sink end of your piping through a return line and back into the system right before the heater. This moves hot water from the heater up to the sink without wasting any.
On the other side, getting colder water would most likely be moving room temp water out of the pipes and getting to water that was sitting in your well or underground piping from the city.
Edit: I should write faster.
Edit Edit: This is one of the pumps I mentioned.
Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo
With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0
And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer
I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?
I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler
I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler
I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.
At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i
Get you a condensate pump off amazon. That hole is a French drain. It can’t handle the volume of water your humidifier puts out.
Little Giant VCMX-20ULST 554550 VCMX Series Automatic Condensate Removal Pump With Safety Switch (115 volts), 1/30 horsepower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MGYF3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhjBCb1ZRH3NN
$80 for the pump on amazon, Foxx sells them for way more than they're worth. but you can get submersible ones for even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RMQ6B8R1O540&coliid=I3O2VQVIO4BUHA
I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.
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I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.
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The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?
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I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ
Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.
Dammit, I closed the wrong window and have to retype this.
I wouldn't use a float since mechanical stuff like that has trouble, especially if your water is hard. I'd use a resistance sensor, and if it's over a megaohm or so, shut down. As long as you don't use distilled and deionized water, it should work fine.
High temp pumps are expensive (although low temp pumps are cheap, they won't handle 80C). It'd be much cheaper to mount a small motor to spin a paddle in a housing. I do have a bookmark of this guy, which might work though.
I was looking at this site to get an electronic thermometer. I think they have I^(2)C sensors, but haven't looked lately. Sparkfun has a cheap one but that loses accuracy higher than 85C, which might be fine. Generally, within 1F is good enough. I'm just pulling some bookmarks and going off memory....
This is what we use. Works great, fills up five gallon cans in a couple of minutes. I think I bought it from amazon. These are siphon pumps, and will work for all sorts of liquids, including gas.
You can get battery operated ones for $15. Link to Amazon
I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.
The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.
It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?
You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.
Would you recommend something like this instead?
Heres a good pump http://www.amazon.com/temperature-15GPH-Water-Pump-grade/dp/B004HHW0FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341652283&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+pump
Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5
I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.
Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.
Here is the closest I can find online https://www.amazon.com/Vipe-Micro-Submersible-Motor-Water/dp/B01N0X3CW4
Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this
If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.
Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVwOCbSW5RF0F
We have a sump and we bought something similar for power outages.
I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.
I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.
You could get something like this and run it at a low voltage to control the flow:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0X3CW4/
Sure!
hot water pump pump
800w souse-vide it seems the price went up on this one, maybe shop around for a cheaper 800W unit (I paid $55)
Yes, I've added hot water to the keg before to help it dissolve. It helps, but still requires a fair bit of stirring.
I figured that I'd just add some pressure to the keg and bleed the pump outlet side in order to prime it.
I actually have one of these diaphragm pumps sitting around in the garage; I might try that.
I use this one for vorlauf, it's worked great so far.
Eh, I bought this pump, and it gets the job done just fine.
Sadly...economics appears to have taken hold. This is the EXACT pump i have...but was 7.99 when i bought it...appears now to come with hose barbs, dc plug instead of just wire leads, and hose clamps...which dont justify the increase. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G305PK0?psc=1
Might be able to find a cheaper one...but bayite is the brand i used
Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.
Thanks!
This gizmoid. I use bottled water at home (skunky well water) so we thought there’s got to be a way to be able to have that convenience at a campsite!
What exactly is this pumping out? Is there a french drain under your basement? Just trying to confirm this isn't an ejector pump.
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EDIT:
This seems like an easy DIY and had good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-ESP25-Upgraded-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sump+pump+battery+backup&qid=1567991829&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Your right it would not make the water get there any faster. Your wrong about the temp being dangerous unless you have young children or your an idiot who drinks out of the hot side tap. The owner should just spend $$$ on a Grundfos comfort pump with a crossover valve.
Grundfos 595916 1/25 Horsepower Comfort Series Recirculator Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JG81AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvERAbPYBHYM8
I did say try the thermostat first btw.