Best powersports handlebars & parts according to redditors
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports handlebars & parts. We ranked the 109 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports handlebars & parts. We ranked the 109 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I bought these for the tape https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU?keywords=mouse+grip+tape&qid=1540671229&sr=8-8&ref=sr_1_8
Talon grips, material is very rubbery and doesnt peel away easily when heated with a blow dryer.
With a 125cc you've legally got a motorcycle and should really just follow how they work since you have a license plate. Just park in motorcycle parking next to other bikes there. I'm not sure where you are, but is motorcycle thefts big in the area? Personally, I don't worry about it too much (and I have a $10,000 scoot) because that's what insurance is for.
If you still want more security, consider something like the Grip-Lock. http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
Yeah. It is possible to modify and fit Harley switches on any bike. The main problem you may face is that the Harley switches are made for a larger handlebar diameter - So, either you'd have to replace the handlebars for the larger ones, or use some kind of adapters/spacers.
Another option would be to use BMW R1100 or R1150 switches. These are costly (meanwhile, lots of cheap replicas of Harley switches). R1150 are very big and easy to press. The problem with these is that you need a more special flasher unit (while I think Harley does not). You press the button on each side to turn the signals on, and then press the third button to turn them off.
Personally, I think the Harley switches are actually more friendly to various modifications. The easiest way would be to fit a larger handlebar by using some handlebar risers that accept the larger handlebar (f.e. this).
Since I am a cheap person (and own a lathe) I'd probably do it this way: I'd make aluminium adaptor sleeves that would fit over the stock handlebar, and right under the new switches. I also have a knurling tool for the inside and outside, that'd make it grip well. I'd cut it in half with an angle grinder and use it between the new switches and the handlebar...
They look like either the Nitto - Mustache Bar, or the Origin8 Tiki Handlebar
Woohoo! A fellow Space Horse rider!
My ride as of today: http://imgur.com/vruVzQu
Did a 17ish mile ride earlier from the most northern point of Manhattan, over the Manhattan bridge to my apartment in Gowanus, BK (my longest single, almost non-stop ride yet! ). It was great except for the fact that my Brooks needs to break in already. :(
One thing I will recommend is to replace the bar end caps, those cheap plastic ones kept on falling out. I got these Fyxation aluminum ones off Amazon and they are sweet.
Hope you like it as much as I do!
If that's all you want, you could get some rubber grip tape off Amazon. I use it for my pistol, but in theory it would keep it from marking your floor.
TALON Grips Rubber Material Sheet, 5" x 7", Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i.76yb451QCS8
I don't know if that's what you're looking for, but it would probably get the job done. I love that stuff.
On the R1200R, the gps is connected with the 12V auxiliary power cable which is switched on with the ignition. This cable can be acquired at your bmw motorcycle shop: hornig
You take this cable, and connect the proper leads (see description of the link above) with this usb power regulator: ebay/amazon
I've tried a few different 12V to 5V usb regulators, but this is the only one that charges the phone consistently with 2 Amps. Most other regulators I've tested don't supply a consistent 5V when the bikes 12V fluctuates (e.g coming to a stop/accelerating/switching to highbeam) causing the phone to drop to a lower charging speed.
I've found an adapter plate to mount that usb regulator to the handlebar in a local bike shop (standard ~28mm diameter socket) for $5. You can probably also cut a piece of plastic/metal like this and mount it with a handlebar screw. Alternatively: twistedthrottle
edit:
To hold your phone, Ram Mounts X-Grip works best (though expensive). You can replace one bolt on the handlebar for an anchoring point: hornig/amazon.
edit2:
The best/most secure throttle lock I've found is brake away: https://brakeawayproducts.com/ . You would have to measure the available space and handlebar diameter to choose the right one though.
I actually have an Abyssus V2 that I took down to 68g by removing the 10g weight that is screwed on inside and replacing the rubber side grips (which weigh another 3-4g) with this material, which grips better and is far lighter.
Definitely worth doing.
Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.
As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.
It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.
Progrip 714, easily the best cheap upgrade you can get.
I've been running foot pegs similar to these for three years now.
I dislike the cheap LED lights for visibility. I mean....why bother having indicators at all if they're not visible? Each time I go looking for new indicators I'm like....meh the stock ones do their job just fine.
Adding Grip Puppies to heated grips will extend the life of the grips indefinitely. And it makes them much more comfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/Cycra-Probend-Handguards-Handlebar-Black/dp/B004MEGFCC
Just picked these up and they are AMAZING. I had issues with the Tusk ones banging into the windscreen, these solved it.
You shouldn't have to get a A2 sight. If its a rifle length gas tube then all you need is a [hand guard cap] (https://www.amazon.com/Handguard-Mil-Spec-Standard-Retainer-Replacement/dp/B00MNS35EU) placed IFO the gas block.
SW Motech tank bag
Ram Mount Ball Holder Arm
Note that I dremeled the ball to contour it to the handlebars and I bought a different bolt to use
These are what I have for 7/8ths:
https://www.amazon.com/PROGRIP-714BK-Black-125mm-Sport/dp/B000WO8MKY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=PROGRIP+714BK+Black+125mm+Dual+Sport+Gel+Grip&qid=1570152055&s=automotive&sr=1-1
They're thicker than regular grips which for some reason helps out a lot with hand fatigue. Plus they're just really comfortable. I bought them November of last year and they're still like brand new
Also I've heard about those coils you put underneath your grips before, I'll look up some youtube reviews and see what kind of experience people have with those
That's a real weird decision for a phone in their "Active" line.
Go add some strips of TALON Grip to the sides. It's normally used for firearms to add additional traction for better purchase.
I actually use a strip of it on the side of my MNML case so that my fingers can get a good grip on the phone (I'm left handed, in case you're wondering why it's on that side).
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/
http://imgur.com/46WryiN
1" wont fit. Don't do it.
Use this instead:
http://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Racer-Clubman-Handlebar-Cb500/dp/B004PQHTIG
Between the brown and red leather grips, I'd go brown.
Talon gun tape. Amazon link here:https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
TALON Grips Material Sheet, 5 x 7-Inch -- Rubber Black
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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IMO the best mods you should get after bash plate, fat bars and bark busters, and radiator guard are:
The R6 throttle tube (or equivalent). The stock throttle doesn't have enough throw to get WOT comfortably or quickly while standing.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/yamaha-wr250r-mega-thread.329337/page-3154#post-33425371
The throttle tube part #: 2C0-26240-00-00 is from the 2006 - 2015 Yamaha R6
Here is an amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-2C0262400000-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C59NO2
And the RSC clutch. For improved modulation.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/yamaha-wr250r-mega-thread.329337/page-2979#post-31848139
After that would highly recommend Tubliss system. and IMS foot pegs. and IMS 3 gal gas tank. And at some point you gotta get the DRC tail light. And the Sandman case saver....
You have a lot of options here to spend your money. You will like all these mods I promise. But keep the motor and intake and exhaust stock. I have tried all the "free mods" none of them were very helpful, most of them just made it worse. And all of the expensive motor mods, although they did make it faster on the street, they made it suck much more off road, for me at least.
Get a RAM ball to replace one of your yoke screws
Motorcycle M8 Bolt Handlebar Clamp Mounting 2.5 cm Ball https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005J43I56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qSIkDb3P1GVTY
Then a standard RAM arm
RAM Mounts UNPKD RAM DOUBLE SOCKET ARM, 1" BALL, RAM-B-201U (1 BALL) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000UGZTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JTIkDb1RH70QX
Then a case (plenty to choose from)
Universal Waterproof/Weather Proof GPS SatNav Case with RAM 1inch Ball Fitting for RAM Mounts (SKU 6525) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003CG2KAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UWIkDb0W253MZ
I had this setup on my Honda Deauville, works great.
A 160 mile round trip is 80 miles each way. AAA RV+Motorcycle roadside assistance covers towing up to 100 miles for 4 instances. This is the cheapest way to get your scooter there, and you'll have 2 tows left for the year.
However, I do own this motorcycle carrier that I got from Harbor Freight for under $100, using a 20% discount coupon during a sale. It works fine. I've towed 50cc, 150cc and 500cc scooters on it. It has a lower 400lb carry capacity, but it's aluminum, so it also weighs a lot less to install and stow away afterwards.
I use a Canyon Dancer II bar harness to secure the front fork and wheel securely to the carrier. I also have this set of ratcheting tie downs to secure the back of the scooter. The bar harness and tie downs are important to tightly secure the scooter down by compressing its own suspension.
U-Haul also rents motorcycle trailers rather inexpensively, but not as cheap as using AAA or having your own carrier, if you expect to need to haul the scooter more than once.
Are you talking about the Handguard cap? I don't know if this one is any different than what's on the 22 version of the M&P. I've read that many people will take them off their 22s anyways. It gives it a nice free float look.
> I just wish there was some sort of texturing
How about something like this? It's what I was planning to use on mine.
EDIT: Searching a bit more revealed this!
Pistol grip material
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551087471&sr=8-4&keywords=pistol+grip+tape
Center mount using the handlebar clamp mount
Gun Grip works great and is pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WhnVBbBFE90CY
If you don’t mind a rougher texture fingerboard / skateboard grip tape is awesome but can tear your hands up over time if you move your hand position a lot.
There is also a foam version for fingerboards “Tech Decks” that Ive been meaning to try. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AW3ZRF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RknVBbC6P81AG
TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j218Bb89PSZHC
Maybe Nitto Mustache Bars?
Or Origin8 Tiki Bars
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RQi.xb8EANA48
Cheap and awesome material.
Example: https://imgur.com/r/MouseReview/8khlVXk
https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Mount-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Screws/dp/B005J43I56/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&srs=2599345011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479752825&sr=1-2
This is the specific mount i bought and that's probably why it didn't come out.
I just used grip puppies. If you don't mind not using leather.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-eSUAbBDKBD5H
I just got my cart as well and haven't had a chance to use it. I added a phone mount, Bluetooth Speaker and grip.
Phone Mount - Amazon
Speaker - Amazon
Grip - Amazon
I'm looking at getting one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
Currently I Put a Disc-Lock on one bike and Chain up the other. I cover both when possible.
I've got a Gorilla alarm I've been meaning to install on my Stella.
Glue them to the bar/throttle tube better? Alternatively, buy a Canyon Dancer and don't worry about your grips at all.
Heated grips doesn't have to be so expensive. I'll treat my CBR with these babies next year ;)
http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Motorcycle-Heated-Grips-Controller/dp/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449600110&sr=8-1&keywords=heated+hand+grips+motorcycle
If you did want to do this, you've got a few options, but none of them are good or cheap.
You could get your shifters to the tops of bullhorns by buying some thumb shifter mounts. These run $65, but you might be able to find some used. You can mount downtube shifters on those, which I bet you can find in a used bin.
For brakes, you'll need to switch to mechanical brakes. You might find hydro levers made for bullhorns, but they're usually sold as a set with brakes, and they won't be easy to find used. The current levers aren't the right diameter for bullhorns, so they'll need to go. You could probably find some cheap road disc brakes, and some TT levers for $50- $100.
So, all said and done, you'll be in between $200 and $300 if you go all used, and that's with the absolute cheapest parts you can find, all for a bar setup that will probably stretch you out more than you want (if your bike fits you properly), and with a downgrade from hydro to mechanical brakes.
What about just buying some barends for $15 to see if you like the position?
Some low-effort accessories that I like:
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the one I use, it comes in a pretty big sheet and is easy to apply.
God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.
Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/
Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.
Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.
ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/
Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.
Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/
Tune as you go
Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/
For tuning later
Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018
I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph
Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html
Basically got everything from this except the bar ends
Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models
Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection
Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price
Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great
Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in
Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For inside the headlight housing
Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0
I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs
Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.
Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration
I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5DU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i used this grip tape off amazon for my GPW. Theres a rubbery version but i felt the granulated gave more grip. Its been on for about 8 months and hasnt peeled or needed to be reapplied at all
I have been looking for the same thing. I have tried all of these cases and what I found is that TPU cases are not anti-slip. They are more slippery like you said. PU leather cases have some grip. I tried this one and found it fairly anti-slip. But I wasn't a fan of the way it looked.
As of right now, I'm going to get a simple TPU case and stick this on the back. It adds a ton of grip and adheres very good.
Sure thing. First of all, this only applies if you chose the MOE SL and not the standard MOE handguard. Also, my understanding is that the issue only relates to most mid-length but not carbine uppers. So if you bought a mid-length MOE SL handguard then this may apply to you.
Basically it boils down to the fact that, due the slimness of the handguard, it will only fit into a round handguard cap. There is absolutely no way to make it work with a triangular cap. Unfortunately, roughly 80% of the mid-length uppers out there come with a triangular cap installed. This includes PSA's uppers. This means that you will likely have to swap out the hand guard cap in order to fit this particular guard to your barrel.
Although this can be done for really cheap (Round Handguard Cap Mil-Spec A R Standard Retainer OE Replacement - $6.33) it will require that you take most of your barrel apart. This requires some specialized tools. I recommend the following:
There are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to remove the front A2 sight post so I won't get into that. Do note that you will also have to permanently remove the front sling loop in order to have the SL handguard installed as it covers that area providing more forward grip area.
https://amzn.com/B0068ESQTY
also
https://amzn.com/B0013LF3ES
These are the one i used - https://amzn.com/B008GSTWRA They went on easily and cause no issues for me. I have put about 2000 miles on them. Good luck!
What if I put some handlebar ends ? But I saw someone on the internet who converted his bad boy to road bike but I think that's going to cost you a little money.
Senkauto Motorcycle Gloss Black Coffin Cut Hand Guards Customs Handguards for Harley 07 and up Electra Street Road Glide Road King baggers (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079L27P4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YRfvDb421ZWV1
Thanks, I was unaware as I have just recently seen those. This is what I usually use, https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=talon+grips&qid=1565646549&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I bought it off amazon. But you can get just the tube as well. Or the motion pro for a slightly less aggressive effect. https://www.amazon.com/YAMAHA-2C0262400000-Yamaha-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C59NO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Yamaha+2C0262400000+Grip+Assembly&qid=1565977871&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The 520 says its made for claw and the 530 for palm but I have a slight claw grip and I still liked the 530 better. If you do get it though, make sure to get something like this to put on the sides of the mouse: https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1511975978&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=talon+grip
I just got these, I really like them Bikemaster Heated Grips for 7/8in handlebars - One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4UzcAbH5S59NA
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510877714&sr=8-1&keywords=rubber+talon+grip
get rubber for a softer feel or granulate for something a little more rough (you can sand it out with 120g sandpaper if it's too rough, just make sure you do this before you put it on).
Just standard clubman bars.
http://www.amazon.com/Racer-Clubman-Handlebar-CB500-CB650/dp/B004PQHTIG
or get one of these
my bike's fairing gets in the way if I mount from the shocks, and I snapped a fairing connector doing it.
Simple mod is an R6 throttle tube. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-5SL262400100-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C5AMQ0
With some ingenuity you can go for a DIY fender eliminator. Looks real sharp. Guide: https://plus.google.com/photos/112703784529139043406/albums/6030360174284969649
Edit: Also forgot the TRE mod: http://www.svrider.com/tips/retard.htm
I'm a warm water cephalopod swimming in cold waters, so I went for heated grips and am a very happy squid.
The bar ends that come with most handlebar wraps tend to fall out, so I bought some quality ones that tighten in the handlebar so they are sure to hold. these
Bar ends prevent you from taking a core sample of you or anyone else if you have the misfortune of crashing.
Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
That's what I use as well. I got the Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 screws here:
https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Clamp-Screws/dp/B005J43I56,
Then I got the ram grip and clamps onto that ball with a short arm. I use the rubber band and an old phone and just leave the assembly together all the time. I unscrew the ball grip and bring the whole thing (phone and arm) inside with me when I stop (dump it in the helmet). I also routed a charging cable from the battery up there and put a silicone rubber top on it to cap it when not in use.
That way I have a nicely available maps system (turn my main phone into a hotspot, this one connects over wifi).
Get one of these. Easy to use and the best 30$ ever. No one can cut it. Saved my motorcycle which was stored on the street.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO&ved=2ahUKEwjYuMSz7ODkAhUGiqwKHebIAXUQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3I3sphlcJcbvcbDLWbXlvU
You need a ramp, ratchet straps, and I recommend canyon dancers. I've hauled my bikes/scooters around a million times using just those three things plus my truck of course.
Not sure if this is the exact kind you need, but it'll give you an idea as to what they are.
Make sure the tires are aired up appropriately otherwise the bike will be extremely difficult to push. If the ramp is small OR has holes in it like many ramps you should strap it down to the truck. You stay on the left side of the bike and cover the right brake lever. Have another person push from the rear. I usually do it in increments, but many people do it in one shot. I highly recommend increments as its easy to screw up and have the bike start going up at an angle - especially if you've never loaded one before. Hold the front brake and have the person on the rear start pushing. Release the brake and ease the bike up some then tell them when you're gonna press the brake again. Just go up a foot or so at a time. Once its on the truck put the kickstand down and put the canyon dancers on. Ratchet the LEFT side first and make the strap tight enough so that the bike can't lean to the right if you push it. Now do the same for the right and even the tension up. Now alternate tightening the left side and right side until you get a good dive in the front. Shake the bike - it should be one with the truck at this point lol. Tie up the strap so it doesn't beat the paint off of the bike in the wind.
As for maintenance - if you've done some work on cars the clutch job on the bike shouldn't be very difficult for you. BUY THE SERVICE MANUAL. This way you have exact measurements of everything such as oil capacity.
I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.
I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.
My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.
That is quite the first bike. Be careful man!
Also canyon dancers are for transporting bikes more securely without scratching up the plastics.
Risers? Just cheap ones I found on Amazon. First time I stood up on the bike the bars felt short, so I bought these (https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Aluminum-Handle-Risers-inch/dp/B008GSTWRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497301478&sr=8-1&keywords=klr+handlebar+risers) because they were so cheap
It's talon grip tape from
Amazon link : https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP?th=1&psc=1
And it's the one I bought from aliexpress which is cheaper than the talon grip but similar to it.
Link : https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32933326999.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32933326999&aff_trace_key=804d056dcb044953931fc19c8601cf02-1555125843610-05253-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=PAGE_VIEW_IDCLIENT_ID(aefeMsite)NAV_TIMING(navigationStart)
Looking at the clamps you are looking at, they are different than the ones I have. Mine are theprotaper universalones (with 3/4" lift that you are looking to avoid).​
Mine have two bolts that go into the top of the triple tree not the one bolt like the ones you linked. Which reminded me that the SM has the upside-down forks which must have a different triple tree. When I pulled that part number, it was for a DRZ400SM though.​
Last random link for ya, this is the post I used while shopping thatRAM mount, they all say its M8 here too.​
I think you are right (we're talking different bolts) , my S doesn't have a removable lower bar clamp like the SM; which makes sense, upside-down forks vs conventional so the upper triple isn't the same. This also explains why it's so dang confusing to pick out a scott's steering damper!
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Anyway, good luck with the new bike! This is my first season on my DRZ400s and I love it so far. Huge upgrade over my xt350... haha
Progrips I think...
Heres a list of mods and aftermarket replacements I have done (with pictures of what I can show)
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Sargent touring seat(with home made seat heater)
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Short Windscreen(prefer smooth air to turbulent)
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BMW style side view mirrors
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ravetech skid plate
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Crash bars
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Cycra Handguards
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Handle bar risers and Protaper handlebars
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Oxford heated grips
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Aftermarket Fork Brace(cannot recommend this enough for improved handling)
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Home built Short front fender (basically just a bent and cut supermoto fender) attached to the fork brace
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aftermarket 2 bros Exhaust (sv650 slip on muffler with sv650 collector pipes)
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LED head and tail light replacements
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Tail light flasher unit
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home made Wireless charging Ram mount
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Now to the GOOD stuff..... Engine and performance modifications
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swapped the camshafts for 2nd gen SV 650 camshafts for a small HP gain
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Swapped to high flow K&N air Filter
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More Free Flowing exhaust
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Re-mapped the Fuel map using BAZZAZ unit.
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Added Dealer mode switch, Fuel map selector switch and ABS Switch to the dash.
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Raised the rear end by 2 inches using adjustable links.
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Changed out the progressive fork springs for straight rate with 10w fork oil(looking into gold valve emulators next)
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Made some home brewed Pelican case knock off side bags(pictures soon)
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Added skull cupholder for maximum beverage badassery
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Here are some shots from a motocamp trip to Central PA
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She's taken me all over the place, I went from NYC -Austin TX in march, and I only had minor issues.
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Get some of this to use on it man. It would look much better than the wood grain
Getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
and trimming it to fit your mouse might be the best bet.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/
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Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
The XGrip is what you were using?
Should have used the rubber straps to hold it down to the grip. And use a ubolt type mount, or a top clamp bolt type mount.
Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J43I56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0lFMAb9CPF35C
I bought this. There is a Motion Pro one also that has no grip included. I think they're the same thing. You have to file down part of the cable routing thing I think around 1/8'' to be able to open the throttle 100%. I just matched it up to the old tube I pulled off.
The grip that comes on the one I linked is a piece of shit and made my hand fall asleep in like 10 minutes, even with a fairly light grip.
I've been using these for 2 years. Helps with throttle control too.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Puppy-Comfort-Grips-Original/dp/B00CP9ADD8/
TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DhKSeXWYHgHXk
I've seen a lot of people use gun grip tape to pad up their mouse, something like that would probably help you out here.
TALON 998G Grips Sheet (Granulate-Black, 5 x 7-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.CecBbXRV2BFJ
Here is the mobile version of your link
You want to support your body as much as you can with your legs and core, not your arms. There's a saying in MTB "heavy feet, light hands", in which you should basically be able to ride the bike with nothing more than your fingertips on the bars.
As for extended bars, there are a few options. Ergon makes grips that are really nice and come in a variety of sizes as far as the extensions.
You can also get drops/extensions that clamp onto the ends of the bars.
One thing that isn't explicitly mentioned here is the difference between reflected and projected headlights. Halogen lights are reflected and LED's are projected. I'll let you do your own research on this matter because there are a bunch of articles that will communicate the difference between them better than I can. While you can put a LED H4 bulb in a relective housing, you definitely should NOT do this. The beam pattern will be all wrong and blind everyone. This is not ok. You should only use a projected bulb with a projection housing, so if you want to go LED you should pony up for a full on kit. This is all under the assumption that your bike now has a reflective housing.
Also, your stator might be able to keep up with the power output with the heated grips attached. I recently purchased the bikemaster heated grips and threw them on my bench power supply. At full output they only used 30W of power and these bad larrys put out plenty of heat. I've only ever needed them at half power riding in ~40F temps. Good luck.
Find a way to mount a RAM ball to the bike. I like this guy personally.
After that, get something to hold your phone that works with a RAM mount. The X-Grip is super popular, however, I did a lot of research before buying and read loads of reviews from people who lost their phone on the highway, or had the thing twisting and turning every which way, and so on. Many people use it and seem happy with it but it's a big YMMV situation, and it made me shy on that product.
While I can't say for certain if the problems I read about the X-Grip are true, I can tell you that after a legit 60,000 miles with 2 different phones mounted in [THIS] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088LL7UA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) mount, at a combination of city and highway, into potholes and over speed bumps, not once has my phone ever even wiggled. I have the utmost confidence in this thing. The only caveat is that you should use a TPU or hybrid style case because this is just hard plastic, so have something to save you from scratches and so on.
To go along with it you will need one of these for the back of the phone holder. You will also need a RAM arm, I use (and prefer) a 3 inch arm but they make 6 inch and other more complicated contraptions if that doesn't do it for you.
It's not exactly cheap. At the moment, from Amazon, that will cost you about $43 shipped (edit: before tax). However, I will say that this is exact setup has never failed me in 60,000 miles spread between multiple motorcycles and with 2 different phones of decent size. For your reference, those phones were a Galaxy S5 in an Otterbox Commuter and a Sony Xperia Z3+ in a clear Spidgen case. The mount does have room to grow a bit bigger than these if you need it, but not by a lot.
Good luck and happy riding! =)
Edit: Forgot to offer to take pics of the setup on my bike. If you wanna see it all together first, I can do that, just drop a reply.
not the first guy but I use the same setup and can't understand why people use the U-bolt bar mount when this option is available
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2010 Phantom here. I got pretty much everything on amazon, save for the seat and bags.
I just got done installing a Memphis Shades Batwing with lower deflectors, and a Ultimate seat with backrest on mine a couple weeks ago. The 6" recurve/spoiler windshield I ordered for the batwing is a bit to short for me (I'm 5'8"), which causes wind buffeting around my helmet. I'm still debating on going for a 9" spoiler or 11" standard. The seat, while being a bit more firm, is a lot more supportive than the stock one. I haven't had the chance to test out the backrest yet, but it seems like it will make longer trips much more comfortable/tolerable.
The Viking Bags I got for it should have been a bolt on affair, but they conflicted with the shock and seat so I brought the bike to a local shop to get them installed properly and the turn signals relocated. I should have ordered the shock cutout versions, but didn't check until after the return date, oh well, live and learn.
Some other universal things I installed myself were Grip Puppy comfort grips, motorcycle bar phone mount, bluetooth remote control with bar mount.
I ride my 883N sportster all year round in Norfolk, VA and that includes some 30 degree days. I got a set of these and installed them and they work great. They block the wind off my hands very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L27P4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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For gloves I use either a set of Alpinestar Drystar link below or a pair of heated gloves with my Heated jacket. Most of the time I am to lazy to deal with the heated gear and use the alpinestars though and they work great and are really warm.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-corozal-drystar-gloves
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As for speed i can tell you that on my 883N I ride everywhere at 80+ mph and the worse my gas mileage is down to is 39MPG. On longer rides i get in the 50s. I did however put in a stage 1 setup with new Vance and Hines short shots (they are loud), the Screaming eagle air filter and a Vance and Hines FP3 which lets me adjust the ECM. I have gone on a 380 mile trip with this bike at around 80 the entire way in 40 degree weather with no issues.
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As for the headlight i use a $50 variant of the daymaker from Amazon and have had it 3 years so far with no issues. I also installed a 6" lightbar on the front below the headlight in case i need extra light and to help me be seen during the day.
For the seat i have a 2up sundowner seat that is a little wider and i love it. I actually replaced that seat like 2nd day i had the bike so my wife and daughter could ride. Been on it 3 years now.
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Below is a youtube video i did for the viking bags i have on my bike that will show you most of my mods just missing my hand guards.
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Second this. It actually uses a ram mount ball for a motorcycle. LINK Key is to go to your hardware store and get the correct threaded bolt and length if the ones that come with it don't work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nah you want this if you have a FZ or something with similar style handlebar clamps. It looks like this on the bike
http://www.campidiot.net/dump/photo/FZ09Mount1.jpg
Talon Grip Sheets!! Cheaper than d-brand just not cut to shape.
I got some to make tiny strips to put on the sides of cases that need more grip
Edit: Downvoted?? They work wonderful! /u/tlaatonmai here's the link https://smile.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505652150&sr=8-2&keywords=talon+grips
Here's some pictures: https://i.imgur.com/vqhBo80.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bb1CT2c.jpg