Best car subwoofers according to redditors
We found 403 Reddit comments discussing the best car subwoofers. We ranked the 193 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 403 Reddit comments discussing the best car subwoofers. We ranked the 193 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I went to crutchfield and did 4 , 3 way rock ford fosgates and then a 8 inch sub under the passenger seat cost about 500 with sub install. I did the speakers they are easy jsut YouTube it. Install on sub was 200 with all the wiring and taking apart my car to run it and mount the sub. I also got a power under seat sub to make it easy so you don’t have to deal with any other Amps. Now it bumps really Loud, clear, crisp, and so much more bass and it’s so clean. I also did some door insulation for like 30 bucks since the stock is super cheap and horrible .(didn’t bother replacing tweeters with 3 way setup)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html
These are the speakers and come with all the mouthing hardware and no need for amp they take no power to run and Car runs fine stock. This Alone is a great cheap place to start then add a sub
Rockville RW8CA 8" 600 Watt Low Profile Under-Seat Active Powered Car Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sxrJDbJWNHFNZ
This sub is super dope sounds amazing. This is the one thing I payed for to install. They will try to get you to buy some pass through amp just. Say no it’s not Needed they try to sell that the volume will be limited without it but it’s plenty loud enough you can have a party outside.
Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FzrJDbHS83TNV
Here is the door insulation
Good luck! Hope all this made sense! I also put the sub under the passenger seat and I love it you can feel the music a little more and not boomy sounding and doesn’t cost anymore depending on where you put it as well.
They are the older model type X. They new models are $500.
I can’t find any kicker ex 2000.1 amp.
I would offer $300 USD worth. Up to $600 USD
Either way, I would make sure they work, and make a new custom box
Personally, I would get something differently. I don’t like second hand very much to begin with and you can get very good subs for the same price but new
Example:
Sa-12
With
This Amp
Runs $340 USD, and is decent. There are still better options than that. I suggest hoping on discord with a goals and budget and we can hook you up
Wow I can't believe I'm even linking this thing here...
If you reeeeally want a super duper cheap 6.5" sub check out the Pyle PLPW6D. You can get it for $13 shipped from Amazon. Yes, $13, and it's dual 4 ohm like you need. It's not going to sound the best but it will hold you over until you can save some green to get it done right.
Just promise me you'll save up a few hundred dollars and get a proper bass setup some day.
On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE
I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.
https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
You'll want a decent head unit and decent speakers in front, rear speakers are much less critical so you can allocate your funds more toward the front ones.
Sound deadener is an excellent investment, particularly around the front door speakers.
Since your budget is what it is, I am going to recommend going for a powered sub enclosure instead of piecing one together. It may have been better 15 or 20 years ago to piece together a sub and amp and all that but today, when working with a 3 digit budget those old rules have flipped and you can get better results with a well done, all-in-one. You'd be surprised how good even a well done 8" all-in-one performs these days.
Since your dash fits a 2DIN head unit, I'd recommend the Clarion CX-505 or Kenwood DPX791BH - great looking, fully featured. The Clarion CX-505 has a bass extension feature that's pretty cool, rather than boosting bass it does some psychoacoustics nonsense to make the bass you have sound deeper and it works really well in my pickup without a subwoofer. The Kenwood has better Android/Pandora integration though both do it. And no stupid fucking touchscreen crap!
For the front speakers, I'd go with a set of efficient components like these - yeah, I'm a fan of MTX but you can go with whatever brand works for you. Efficiency matters here, because of the way sound works a set that's rated 91dB will be as loud on 20 watts from the head unit as a set rated 87dB would be on 50 watts from an amplifier.
If you order your stuff from Crutchfield they send you all the bits and pieces you need to install in your specific car - so their prices end up being extremely competitive just from that perspective.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24975_Precision-Power-PPI-S850.1D.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/189-1619665-3315235?pi=SS115&simLd=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EVZDW00?pc_redir=1405013338&robot_redir=1
This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1
Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!
Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.
Just my two cents!
EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1
And my amp I use on my Terminators
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html
Hope this helped!
What's your budget? There are several shallow mount subwoofers on the market.
On the cheaper end is something like this Pioneer
On the higher end is something like this JL
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Audio-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375125535&sr=1-1
Build a box to spec.
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
The primary issue with the OEM subwoofers is the price. You can pay $3-500 for a new one, and they definitely aren't worth that unless you can find one used.
I installed a Kicker 11HS8 in my 2015 WRX under the passenger seat and it worked great! That car had the base audio system and just adding that sub made a big difference (although I later upgraded the other speakers too).
I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.
Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:
Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106
4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782
Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7
i'd have checked out a single 12" from sundown or something. kicker is sort of a shitty brand tbh plus you're partially paying for marketing in that price. a good 12" will always be better than 2 below average 10"
absolute tank https://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5D1EH8CWXTGAR0863EF
There are low profile subs similar to this which would fit under the seat. I can't speak from experience but it's something I wanted to try when I get some spare cash.
Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2
And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC
in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.
With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok
Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.
This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!
Here are some answers I've found:
--
Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
This one was only $115 and has a built-in amp. Add in some money/labor for a wiring kit and it's pretty cheap for how it sounds.
I'd recommend going for a real sub+amp combo, though.
Here are a list of prices of the Sundown SA 12 for OP
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-12-750w-sa-series.html $214
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Z66Dyb2V7NXJB $214
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9260-sa-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-dual-4-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.html $214
http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-12-600w-sa-series/ $174 Subs ordered from here may have a defect. This is Sundown bad stock store. Everything on this site will work fine but may have scuffs etc
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sa-series-12/ $214
I installed a Kicker Hideaway powered sub under the seat in my girlfriend's car about a month ago and I have to say I'm rather impressed with it for the size/cost of the thing. Installation was the same as pretty much any amp.
They're only about $230 on Amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468463503&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+hideaway
Depending on your head unit you might need a separate RCA cable thing they sell (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4EBOYK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), or a line level converter if you don't have sub-out RCAs on your head unit.
You don't need a wiring kit though. The amp comes with all the cabling you need, except for an RCA cable I believe.
I have this in my Navara, it's mounted behind the rear seats and has a bit of punch. You'll be able to wire directly to your head unit.
http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Hideaway-Compact-Powered-Sub/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1396440666&sr=8-15&keywords=kicker+subwoofer+8%22
Lets talk some talk.
Good
Better
Best
Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.
The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3
An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv
The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d
A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60
A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i
So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.
You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.
Lets calculate installation.
Labor is going to be around $264
Labor + Parts = $705
I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
$700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
Thanks to all the people who were helpful, including the ones just trying to be helpful....
I found an old thread on a Volvo forum with someone having similar issues, he replaced it with a Pioneer unit, similar to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Ts-sw3002s4-1500-watt-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B00K9854T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464740744&sr=8-1&keywords=TS-SW3002S4
Just ordered it.
Not sure about LOC advice, seems like a splitter could work.
What size sub is "small" for you and is shape/depth an issue?
If you're looking into a powered sub I'd suggest building something like this for ~ $100 & getting a small amp for maybe another $100 + connection gear. This is just an example, but there are plenty of prefab boxes in the $25-50 range and plenty of subs in the $30-80 range which will stomp all over a plastic mini powered sub and don't need a big sub amp.
If you need a really small sub I'd recommend a Pioneer 10" or 12" prefab like these with a small (~300 - 500w) sub amp.
-I just spent $2k on a new computer configuration.
-I just bought the CH HOTAS gear for $200
-I paid $125 for ED Beta + Expansion
-I bought the DK2 and it's (probably) coming in August
-Thank gods I already have nice Audio-Technica headphones
Basically what I'm saying is I've spent a lot lately. But I do want to have rumble features. Is there a way to do this on a budget? $379 is EXPENSIVE to me after all this other shit I bought.
What do you guys think about this?
It's only $100. Gah but you probably need a subwoofer amplifier to connect it to, right? So that makes $200 or so and at that point you can just buy a buttkicker.
If you are a more DIY-guy you can get a pair of auroras ( price per pair ) together with a subwoofer-amp , In my opinion this set is superior to the Buttkicker Gamer 2 (even one Aurora would be enough though, you don't necessarily need a pair)
I have similar units from Alpline in brackets under my driver and passenger seats. They put out some great sound which you can literally feel without shaking the car and are hardly visible. It's a worthwhile direction for sure!
You need either one dual 4 ohm sub or two 4 ohm single voice subs both ran in parallel and that will get you to two ohms.
The thing is though and no one has told you this so far, do not waste your money on that sub. The amp is a little suspect, I don't think for that money it's going to actually deliver 500 watts but the sub is a 100% waste of your money.
If it takes time to save more money, do that. Do it right. You will be pissed off that you wasted your money on a half ass solution and even more pissed off when you find out no one will even give you half what you paid for it originally.
Pinch your pennies, sell your blood, blow sailors down by the dock but whatever you do don't waste your money on that pioneer sub.
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/1265900/main/tsw310d4.jpg That is the back of it, the black part you see isn't the magnet, thats just plastic they molded to look like a magnet. The red circle you see is the actual magnet, it looks more like this http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/UFYAAOSwDN1UTsdL/$_57.JPG
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
If i were you i would check out Pioneer Champion, Rockford Fosgate, or Dayton RSS.
The sundown is a strong spl sub from what i hear. I just haven't used them yet and cant give you an opinion on em other than people say that they need every bit of power you can give them. In the comments folks are saying there running 1400w rms to one, so think about that. The others i have. I am running two champions and they flex @ ~500rms each. I got them when they were on sale for like 90 a piece. Such a steal.
But to answer you question, imo, that box might not sound the best with the SA-12, or the Dayton Hos.
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
Alpine Type R fits in the price range. For a little bit over $200 you can go Sundown SA-12 . I’ve got one of these on 1500 watts in about 3 cu ft box and it pounds hard!
NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQ.zzb4CFS7S5
This is the one I got and it's a combo, it won't blast your ears off but it gives it a more full sound.
The whole system is 500W the sub is probably getting 100-150W maybe, If you want a good 6.5 sub then:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-EVL-65-D2-Subwoofer/dp/B019WYIPL0
​
but you may have to make room for the magnet by hollowing out the plastic enclosure some, or making a spacer ring out of MDF or 3D Print a ring.
I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.
Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.
A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.
I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.
I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.
Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bbSADb008NTF3?th=1&psc=1
I saw this sub to put in the back of the passengers seat. For anyone that knows about subs, is there a huge difference between the 10 in and the 8 inch? There’s a difference of 200 peak watt and 50 RMS watt between them, and idk which to choose
Head unit :some kenwood /pioneer that you like- $200ish
Front : [These ] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20992_JL-Audio-C2-650.html) - 250
Rears: [These] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com) -100
Sub: [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q)
Amp: [this] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64240_Kicker-CX600.1-12CX600.1.html)
Sound deadener : Stinger roadkill $100ish on sonic
0.95 cubic feet per sub or total? If its 0.95 cubic feet total then this pioneer shallow mount is your best bet. You can get two and wire them in parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms. Use this matching pioneer amp and you've got an el cheapo system that should sound decent.
Thanks a ton, dude. Still new to all this. The other sub I was considering is this Rockford Fosgate. I guess I'll think it over for a bit.
Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being
This is the sub I’m planning to get
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054REBYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524344479&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shallow+mount+10+inch+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41YG5YkO0LL&ref=plSrch
>Just go to Sonic Electronixs ( or any other car audio websites new people look at ) and look up brands most veterans in the industry stand by.
99% of people looking to put something in their car don't even do that. They go to Amazon and go with highly rated garbage. Seriously 76% of the 95 reviews are 5 stars.
I don't think you need to spend $200 on a sub if you're just adding frequency. If everything else is stock and you're not in a large SUV or van I would just go with a single 12". One of these two perhaps http://amzn.com/B0028AYIXK http://amzn.com/B004UFHXNI
But the sound quality and loudness will depend heavily on your amp - what do you have or have in mind to push the sub?
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series
is this what you mean by e series?
Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1
4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???
https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1485393252&sr=1-1&keywords=hifonics+amp
Looks good ?
Did you get this?
If so, you only need 400w rms, so you can get the pioneer gm-d8601. No line out adapter required, as it accept high level input. 500w at 2 ohm, enough, and a bit of headroom.
So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended
[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea
[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95
Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95
And
12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea
JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498
Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.
No problem. The amp and sub are still around on amazon.
Subwoofer
Amplifier They have upped the wattage on the amp to 1600 now, be careful, that is close to the limit the sub can handle.
MTX Audio TNP212D2 Terminator Power Pack Subwoofer System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E35XGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nSilDbRAD7KVW
Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...
Let's do this a little bit differently.
Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.
Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.
Do this instead:
Same brand but higher model
With this amp
and this wiring kit.
Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size
No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.
All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.
Yea, speakers are probably pretty worn out.
I'd go with the following:
Rear Door(may need adapter plate) - Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BZFSYA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hy-7tb0GWF559
Front and Dash (I've got a set almost exactly the same, love em). You'll need 2 sets - Infinity Kappa 4"x6" 2-Way Loudspeakers-Pair (Black) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FP3IKW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_KA-7tb1PQYKHT
Sub (This will need a box. I recommend building your own sealed box.) - Rockford Fosgate P2D4-12 Punch P2 DVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 400 Watts RMS 800 Watts Peak Subwoofer by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXIS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oK-7tb0ZS0FWV
And the amp - Kenwood Kac-8405 720-Watt 4/3/2-Channel Amplifier with Variable LPF/HPF by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038FNIBW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1N-7tb12DPXJD
Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-152 In-Dash MP3/WMA CD Receiver by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KKS7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ZQ-7tb00XP2RM
I didn't actually count it up, but that should be pretty close to your budget.
I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
I installed a small alpine one. It has the speaker and subwoofer in one enclosure and I installed under the passenger seat. If money isn’t an issue JL audio has a very nice subwoofer too just for wranglers.
Alpine
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Electronics-PWE-S8-Restyle-Subwoofer/dp/B00OYGGMXK
JL Audio
https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-18-up
are these speakers you already have?
compact subs are a thing. yes, they're intended for use in a car, but the are self-powered and will work in your home with a good 12v PSU, and only need audio source. you're dealing with a tight space, compromises may be needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ would fit under the couch.
​
or depending on budget, you can get a sunfire sub. their 8" is just about a 1 foot cube.
https://www.sunfire.com/product/8-dual-driver-200w-powered-sub-black-ash-SDS8
​
you can also use front-ported bookshelf speakers as your rear channels and put them IN the bookshelves.
'03 Sahara
I bought this JVC headunit for when I upgrade to a 5 channel amp. 22rms 50peak x 4channels. 6 channel preamp output. I had crutchfield make my wiring harness.
I tried to match the speakers I bought to the regular output of the headunit and will upgrade them when I get an amp.
I replaced the knee panel and roll bar speakers with these Skar 5.25" speakers. 22w rms 75 peak each, 90db sensitivity. I had to use adapter brackets for the knee panel speakers. All speakers/brackets worked with stock hardware and covers. Used speaker baffles on the knee panel speakers, cut them down and siliconed them on. I used low volume door threshold foam along the edge of the pod speakers to seal it.
I added these Skar 1" tweeters to the dash corners. 20rms 80peak each, 88db sensitivity. They are at the bottom corners of my windshield screwed into the trim panel. I soldered them to the knee panel speakers in parallel. They were an afterthought, so I'm not sure if the wiring matches power-wise but they play music.
I replaced the stock subwoofer with this Skar 6.5" DVC subwoofer. 200rms 400peak, 83.1db sensitivity. It's wired at 1 ohm to the stock amp and supposedly getting 75w (rms/peak idk). The stock enclosure required heavy modification for the speaker to fit, lots of breaking, melting, and shaping of the plastic housing and center console. Used high volume foam to seal around the speaker. I get a good bit of distortion at high volume, plan on getting an amp to tune separate.
The sound is clear enough to hear with doors/top off going +60mph.
Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER
My Item much thanks
Edit: these are exterior dimensions. also, I have two amps to work with: Currently installed amp is 210 watts RMS x 1 channel @4 ohms, or 70 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms. I also have a secondary amp that I could install if needed, it's 250 watts RMS.
I'm about to build a box for behind the seat of my small truck. see attached photo.
...
I initially thought I was going to run a single 10" in this 1 cube box, but I think I need to have shallow mount drivers due to the limited depth, and it seems they require much smaller enclosures, so I will probably put a divider in the middle and run dual 10s.
...
I was considering these two drivers, but am open to suggestions, trying to keep it around $100 per driver. No foam surrounds, please:
...
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_135711_Cerwin-Vega-HS102D.html
....
https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-SW2502S4-10-Inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B0054REBYK/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1509736193&sr=1-1&keywords=shallow+mount+woofer+pioneer
Line Output Convertor + 2 Channel amp + amp kit
or if you wanted something more name brand something like THIS Cheap stuff still, but better than the dual crap
The easiest and cheapest route would be to buy this rockford fosgate loaded enclosure and just wire it into the rear speakers.
Although, this may not be much an improvement on the premium system. So if you're craving a little more oomph, you would have to go this route:
Get an amp with high level inputs like this precision power. Wire it with a nice 4 awg amp kit and splice the high level to the rear speakers. After you have the amp installed, the possibilities for subs are pretty much endless. You could run something like this SA 12 and either make a box for it or put it in this prefab.
Amp: $120
Amp Kit: $30
Sub: $200
Box: $45
____
total: $495
After shipping and taxes it all might be over 500, but this would definitely scratch your itch for bass.
Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV
Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha
So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?
Exactly no need to redo any wiring. and sub would be a great combo and relatively the same price as the powered sub but you have room to upgrade and it will be miles ahead in power and quality over the powered
I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used
BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE
My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so
Hope this helps a little
No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/
http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=54&productId=21471&sku=GMD8601
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&coliid=I34PLZRDN6DOH0
Thank you man. Will definitely be looking into this.
PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch, 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054REBYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uTjxCb56HWRXF
Any thoughts on this sub?
Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?
And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?
I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Ec6CbA39Q435
That’s what I ended up going with. I might end up going with a nicer setup in the future but I thought I’d see how this worked first.
This beast
What amp and wiring kit should I get for 2 Rockford Fosgate P1-2x12's?
I'd like to stick with Rockford Fosgate brand
Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_-Gz3wbSAYP0BN
Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup
I put it in the edit it might’ve not worked tho but this is the kit i got https://www.amazon.com/MTX-TNP212D2-Terminator-Subwoofer-System/dp/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549067406&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mtx+subs+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch
I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.
I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.
Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.
Have you considered an under seat sub?
NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC
Might work?
Alternatively... if you only need the whole trunk 25% of the time maybe a small removable with a quick disconnect harness?
First off if youre wanting that kind of bass youre going to have to build a box to spec of whatever sub youre getting. Personally i would suggest 1 or 2 Sundown SA-12's
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637886&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+sa+12
and a proper amp http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637961&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics
Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!
I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.
Craigslist be like....
"Includes 6 monster 6" subs on a BA 4K amp. Will shake your fillings out. Thousands invested my loss is your gain."
$84 for 6 x
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLPW6D-6-Inch-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0071HY42K/ref=br_lf_m_7hhr9bwepv7y5ee_1_1_ttl?ie=UTF8&s=car
$100 for
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032FOKWY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1450284023&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=boss+phantom+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41jH5OfN1XL&ref=plSrch
Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?
I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.
Its a all in one unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482809725&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+8+inch+subwoofer
Okay everybody, sit down. Class has started. Getting into car audio can be the most intimidating thing to start. So many brands, power ratings, trying to find a compatible amp. On top of that, a lot of companies lie about there power ratings. Ok so lets start with subwoofers. When looking on amazon you will see a lot of subwoofers claiming RMS and max power. RMS is the rated watts that a subwoofer can handle. Max power rating is just a fake number companies will make to make there product sound better than it is. ( Heres an example Pyle PLPW10D 10-Inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7CRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nixzybQY8YTXY ) notice how 1000 watts is in the title. If you put 1000 watts rms on that sub it wont last one min. Its rms rating says 500 watts rms. Now that subwoofer linked above is a pyle of crap. Stay away from these brands (Pyle, Planet Audio, Boss not to be confused with Bose) these are better choices ( Rockford, Pioneer, Kicker, Alpine) balls to the walls best choice ( Skar Audio, Sundown Audio) there are tons of brands but those are most common. A good rule of thumb is looking at the size of the magnet. The bigger the magnet the more power it can handle and usually better quality. (Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvxzybSARDNC5 ) long story short is you get what you pay for. 30$ 500 watt sub looks to good to be true because it is. Build quality is junk and its going to sound like crap. Now if you want a good thump. I recommend staying in the 300-500 watts rms range. It wont kill the budget and you can get some decent bass. Anything higher than that, you will start to get into the car rattling range. Now back to subwoofer specs, you will see different types of ohms and voice coil configurations on subwoofers. Ohms is resistance. Lower the ohm=easier power flow, so more power can be delivered easier. Now voice coil config can get confusing. There can be one of two options on a subwoofer, single voice coil And dual voice coil. A SVC is simply one positive and one negative terminal on a subwoofer. When you have a DVC you have two positive and two negative terminals. Now the reasoning for this is with a DVC sub you can change the ohm rating on the sub itself with different wiring configurations. You can change a dual 2 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm wiring in parallel ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) thats one example, you can raise, lower or keep it at original ohm. See with a single voice coil sub, you cant change the ohms because there are only one set of positive and negative terminals BUT you can use an identical sub and use its set of terminals to change the ohms of both subs ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-SVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) now the whole reasoning for this is because at different ohm ratings, you will get a different output on your amp. (Remember lower ohm= higher power) so heres an example ( i'm making these numbers up btw) a amp could have these listed... 8 ohm 50 watts, 4ohm 100 watts , 2ohm 200 watts, 1ohm 400 watts. Now lets say you have a dual 4 ohm 200 watt sub. You would want to wire it in parallel to change the ohms to 2 and then you will get 200 watts, which is what my fake sub was rated for. Now if you have the same sub but was a single voice coil, that wouldn't be the best amp for that sub. It would only receive 100 watts when its rated for 200. So it would be recommended to find a more compatible amp. I shouldn't have to say this but you obviously want to match watts rms with your subwoofer and amp. They say to stay in 80% - 125% of rated power of the sub. So that pretty much means if your sub is 350 watts, and you have the ohm configed to deliver 400 watts then thats fine. If its a good brand and has good build quality you can push it farther than its rated for. Like sundown audio subwoofer can be pushed 300 watts more than rated and run perfectly fine. You will know when your pushing your sub two hard. It will either make a clunk meaning it bottomed out. (It moved in or out to far) or you will smell something burning. Thats your voice coil starting to heat up. If that was to happen, turn down the bass and let it cool and adjust bass level. Now lets talk about good amplifiers, there probably going to be the most expensive item in car audio. Rule of thumb for amps is to not be cheap and don't fall for all the eye candy. The bigger and heavier the amp, the more believable the power rating is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00011KLXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eIyzybKGRQYJV ) something that small is no way going to output "3000" watts, you probably wouldn't get more than 500 watts. Alot of cheapo brands will put lights and crazy colors to try and attract you to there products. Thats usually a sign of junk. Make sure you look at rms power and reviews will usually say if it was a good buy. Companies like boss will even lie about rms. Now subwoofer amps are called class D amplifiers. There usually two channel or mono block meaning how many terminals there will be on the amp. You can use a multi channel amp on one sub if its strong enough. Also if your planning on wiring your sub to one ohm, make sure the amp is stable to run at one ohm. There is also bridging. When you take one positive of one channel and one negative of the other channel of the amp. So it combines the power of both channels. Amp needs to be compatible to do that. I recommend getting an amp with a bass knob but any decent brand should have one included. A good method of finding true rms of an amp is adding up fuse ratting and multiplying it by voltage. So my amp claims 1500 watts. It has no fuse but has an inline fuse by the battery ratted for 100 amps 100x12=1200 watts. 12 being average voltage, that number can fluctuate to 13.5. My amp is actually compatible up to 16 volts. 100x16=1600 watts, Most amps being only 80-90% efficient = 1500 watts. Also get a decent amp kit, if you get cheap junk, you can choke your amp. If the cables going from the battery to the amp are two small your amp can short out. And for the box, build one. Many sub manufacturers will have a recommendation for there sub, and have all the dimensions listed. If thats not your thing then you can buy one but they can be expensive. I recommend a ported box over sealed. I think thats about everything....if you have any questions, i'm here to help. Don't get discouraged, if you take the time to do it right, your 400 watts system will sound better than your buddies 3000 watt system.
I forgot to mention this but its better to over power then to under power your subwoofer. If your amp is 300 watts and your sub wants 500 then your going to have a number of problems. Your amp will produce alot of distortion and it will be under alot of stress. It will also get hot enough to cook on. Not only that but it will also damage your sub. Think about like this, your sub if built to move farther than the amp is capable of pushing it. This causes clipping and you will get loud popping sounds from your sub.
Also "professional" installers may not be the most trustworthy guys out there. Not saying there all bad but if you show them that you don't know much, they may try to sell you the junk i told you to stay away from at a premium price. The installation really isn't that difficult. Do a some research and it will only take a few hours at most
This vs. This
I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.
The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?
So with these subs, where would I go to get a box? And since I'm an idiot, is that price for both subs or just one? And I'm not sure what you mean by, "tuned to the low 30's". Finally, if I'm getting two 750w speakers, doesn't that mean I should go for a 1500w amp?
Thanks for the response. Looking at the Subwoofers with good ratings I found 3 models that I think would be good for me.
I could go with 2 of these
Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036MOQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I25mybM8C1RZ8
Or 1 of these
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u55mybA45BVQA
Or 1 of these
12W0V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W0V3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5ZCDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v65myb8P643ME.
All of the configurations above come to around the same price. I'm thinking one higher quality subwoofer would sound better than 2 of lower quality, correct? I'm planning on using a sealed box. Which one of these would be the best choice?
Closely following this because i was about to post the same exact thread. also this might be relevent. Found what looks like a nice package on amazon. take from that what you will because im neither an audio or car guy probably like yourself. https://www.amazon.com/TNE212D-12-Inch-Loaded-Subwoofers-Package/dp/B01BGW8GOM
[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)
[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)
Wire
If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.
Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?
MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF
By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!
I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2
I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.
One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?
Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.
That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.
I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp
Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400
or
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)
and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367392434&sr=1-12&keywords=ported+box+12
Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max
---------
The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.
Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.
I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.
Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?
Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.
http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM
So basically my setup will be that box,
Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001
Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS
Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105
Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU
Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!
MTX TNE212D 12" 1200W Dual Loaded Car Subwoofers + Box + Planet 1500W Amp + Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGW8GOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEAdBbWY8WFZY
This is what I was talking about. This wouldn’t be good enough?
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M
Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.
If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.
Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.
If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502
Hey I just got this in my trunk and after some tuning, I am very happy with it. It gets too loud so I have to turn it down, and they are cheap enough that you could buy one for each car.
I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.
I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.
What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.
Here they are:
Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12
The reviews are very good no matter where you look, crutchfield, Woofersetc, CA, Amazon, etc. Of course theres the random dumb-ass that blew them up in 10 mins because they obviously didn't know what they are doing, but that's inevitable with a lot of sales lol.
I somehow doubt Fosgate would build an enclosure for the subs that didn't sound/work well. But they do have a sealed enclosure for them as well. I like sealed enclosures, but I might prefer ported for the extra cooling it provides. Especially in the insane heat we have here in the summers, I am curious how they'd do in a sealed box in the trunk...
I'm also thinking I'll probably mount my amp under my seat if possible, or anywhere in the cab so it'll have air conditioning. A little less heat can't hurt.
Parts so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKHTMLA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AO3YTZ6BCMVCB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF5EQHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0LUG30/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K9854T0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NYACAJP9I1IY
Got the DK2 coming in but I'm building a racing sim rig.
Here are the components:
Fanatec GT3 RS V2 Racing wheel with force feedback
Playseat Evolution-M White Gaming Seat
Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V2
Aura AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Pair for tactile seat feedback for loss of traction and road texture.
Going to find a amplifier for the Bass Shakers. All in all, I expect it to be a kickass sim when the DK2 arrives.
Yea this one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6
Slight preference on size(smaller is better) I am considering using it with these subs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WYIPL0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2JVCW1GQY516A&psc=1
I have a 2014 mazda3 and the bose door speakers have a low-pass filter on them, so I want to replace them with subs essentially. Unfortunately these speakers are a non standard size 9 inches so my only quick and easy option is to replace them with 6.5 inch ones and use a metra adapter.
Dear OP, I was in your same spot only 4 months ago and bought this powered amp. I am already looking into getting a real amp and sub to replace it. If you are serious about the sound in your car don't get this one, or at least get a better one than this.
I will say that it is way better than having 4 speakers without the sub, but some people will want more.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1
I'm about to buy 1 sundown sa 12 and a box and amp after reading the reviews. This link is to a 750 watt. It says 4 ohm, but in the description it says "RE: 7/07 ohms" What am I missing? Does it mean that it's 4 ohm if wired in parallel? I went to best buy and test drove some subs the guy had and I think I'd like something ~ 750W so if I bought a sundown sa 12 750W, what amp do you think would be good with either impedance however I decided to wire it?
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
i went with this sub linked MTX Audio RT8PT Universal Powered Subwoofer Enclosure and new stereo head. The tricky part was getting power ran to it so it would not shut off when key was turned off. I put a seperate power switch in for it. Had to wire to fuse panel and run audio and power under carpet. New head had cross over and LFE settings. I used a signal generator app on iphone to set cross over point. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FXFS8G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I was thinking more on the install, would this guy fit in the spot where the Bose woofer would go, if I had one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch
Something like this? Maybe buy a wiring package + line out coverter with it?
I found this as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGW8GOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=51JPj2PGwYL&ref=plSrch
This is $50 cheaper and includes wiring, but I'm guessing it's cheaper in the amp? Is it more worth it to buy the more expensive system with the better amp?
Also, I noticed the subwoofers I linked only go down to 40hz. Will that be an issue for deep bass?
Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.
Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
I installed this powered subwoofer a couple years ago and it sounds great imo. The bass isn't overwhelming once you tweak the settings, and any audio shop can install it.
It sits in the trunk and it doesn't take up too much space. I can still pack for camping but if I need to put the back seats down I can rotate it to make more room.
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&pid=1218851199236 that's the amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UFHXIS/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T163PW/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?qid=1369962083&sr=8-20&pi=SL75
And
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1369962150&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
There you go.
Alright. Yeah I can do 250. Was thinking of getting the wiring here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4
And it looks like the D4 version is the same price!
http://amzn.com/B003ZWBG7Q
those speakers you linked were actually a different set then i bought. definitely has a higher power rating then mine. so i believe the ones i got are indeed 65watt rms, 120 peak.
so since i was always running it at 95% power (47-50 out of 50) you think me pushing it at that high of power blew the speakers? i did notice alot of distortion (probably clipping), so perhaps i did blow them. oh balls. damn. wish there was a way in the headunit to force it to only use 45ish of the 50, so i couldnt accidentally break them.
so its more then likely i ruined 3 of them.
I did actually reorder the polk db651,, and will replace both of them just because. do you think i should use some weatherstripping between where i screw it in to seal it a bit better. also, what your thought on sealing it afterwords with latex or silicone caulk?
i also bought 2 of these pyle 6 inch sub
do you think even though im throwing it in the rear speaker placements, in what is i believe an open air install ( no boxes, just going to screw right in where the stock paper speakers were), if i sealed that it would be better then those shitty midwoofers? do you think maybe i should buy a small speaker baffle and then screw them in? or is there a diy baffle like enclosure that isnt to complicated to help seal in the woofers?
oh yeah, my girlfriend does have those 2 6x9s, each in a seperate enclosure! no idea which ones they are, but do you believe maybe a 2 channel amp with maybe 500-700 watts would work? id assume those 6x9s are 4 ohm. can you suggest or link me to a amp youd reccomend? i dont wanna spend an arm and a leg (most is like 80-100 bucks.)
all 4 speaker placements in my car are the 6/6.5 sizes. so i really cant do much.
thanks for the help man. i really appreciate your responses.
Rockford Punch
$64.95 dollar subwoofer and performs great. But if you want the true opinion from anyone who buys CarAV, a subwoofer is actually one of the most important items in the car audio world. It takes the stress off the stock speakers which makes them sound clearer. But then again, it all comes down to what you're musical preference is. Great build but if you want some bump in the trunk, you're gonna wanna have a budget higher than $75.
Thanks
Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.
I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1
And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1