Best hardware sealers according to redditors

Needed some more desktop space so I decided to build a new desk (technically a shelf, I know) from a butcher block countertop.

I decided to use an unfinished ash butcher block countertop from Home Depot. 74" x 25" x 1.5"

I sanded it with 220 grit even though it comes out of the packaging with a pretty good finish. I did knock the corners off though.

Finished with 2 coats of Zinsser Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer sanding between coats with 220 grit. Then I wiped on 4 coats of 50/50 minreal spirits and a satin finish oil Polyurethane. Followed by brushing on 2 coats of 100% polyurethane. Wiping on the layers was definitely easier and left a nice surface but because this is used as a desk I switched to straight polyurethane for a heavier/more protective layer.

I added 2 Power grommets using a 3-1/8” hole saw and 2 flexible cord grommets Using a 2-3/8” hole saw on each end as well as 2 power strips screwed to the underside. Before I made any holes I mapped out stud/bracket location on the underside to make sure I wouldn’t have any interferences.

For mounting to the wall, I used heavy duty shelf brackets from Rockler fastened to the studs with Spax Lag Screws and fastened the countertop to the brackets with Spax cabinet screws

I am not sure if I need to put another support in the center of the table or not. Any opinions? I am not concerned with the weight necessarily as the brackets are good for 2,920 lbs per Rockler's website. But i am not sure if it will bow overtime if it's not supported.

​

Edit1: Added a center support Bracket: https://imgur.com/gallery/LGl7UT2

Edit2: Picture of working desk. Would love to wall mount the monitor. https://imgur.com/gallery/QfH6M9a

Edit3: I ended up going with a wireless charger grommet that sits pretty flush with the desk surface.

https://imgur.com/KkMJZEp

https://imgur.com/yjPurX6

I have Amazon Prime. No worries.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-265495-11-Ounce-Flexible-Sealant/dp/B00AGZ0MUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482417747&sr=8-1&keywords=Leak+sealant

Yup. Expanding spray foam. That stuff is awesome. Unsure about brand, but looks like Great Stuff Expanding Spray Foam

Interesting idea! I went on a hunt and this is the coolest thing I've found:

• https://www.flickr.com/photos/seehere/434844917/?rb=1
  
  It's done with a process called plastination:
  
  > The water and fat are replaced by certain plastics, yielding specimens that can be touched, do not smell or decay, and even retain most properties of the original sample.
  
  
  They're been doing this since 1970s so I figure there's probably a guide online. Next logical step was a search for "DIY plastination":
  
  
• http://www.vhlab.umn.edu/atlas/methodologies/preservation/plastination.shtml
  
  I do not have any evidence that the same procedure would work on mushroom flesh, other than the flickr link above.
  
  EDIT:
  
  Per the plastination patent by Gunther von Hagens:
  
  >EXAMPLE 3
  
  >A globular cactus having a diameter of approximately 15 cm was partly hollowed out from its root end by means of a curette, and it was then immersed sequentially for three hours each in 50% aqueous acetone, pure acetone, and dichloromethane. Thereafter it was immersed in a solution of a commercial epoxy resin prepolymer stable at low temperature, but curing at elevated temperature. The vat holding the prepolymer and the immersed cactus was stored in a vacuum at 10° C. for eight hours, whereby all volatile solvent was extracted. When drained of excess prepolymer and held in an oven at 40° C. for six hours, the cactus hardened, but otherwise retained its original appearance and color.
  
  Just curious how much a DIY setup would cost so I made a shopping list:
  
  
• vacuum chamber
  
  
• dichloromethane
  
  
• acetone
  
  
• epoxy resin
  
  
• vacuum pump
  
  
• vacuum safe container to act as dry ice acetone trap
  
  
• dry ice

UV Light Glue is perfect for fixing glass. I have used it on 2 bong bowls that I broke at the stem and a steamroller I split in two. One pen will last for a while and they are only 20$

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Edit: My dad owned a window and glass repair shop, we used pens like this all the time to fix small chips in stained glass. It dries clear (it can be lumpy though if you use too much) and will not break from high heat.

Nah. You need something to go in the hole and seal it from the inside.

Great Stuff 157906 Insulating Foam Sealant, 12 oz, Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YW0W0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLx2DbHDZKH41

Serious upvote for /u/socaTsocaTsocaT's suggestion to use StoneTech's Bulletproof. It is an awesome sealer. Follow the directions, and it does an excellent job of keeping your granite looking good for many years.

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

I've done it with Flex Seal I can tell you that it was easy and didn't require any sanding. Just mask off your area and spray away. I wanted to try it because I would often set them down on concrete floors and worried about eventual damage. With all of that said, I didn't like that fact that I could no longer see the amount of trub that was building up and was also worried about knowing if the bottle got clean after use. I currently use better bottles and/or glass carboys with milk crates.

Encase the eggs in Jell-O brand gelatin.

Try a few experiments with different amounts of Knox brand gelatin added, i.e., different stiffnesses.

Edit: better yet, put eggs in box and fill box with expanding foam like this stuff. Let it cure and dry completely, then saw through the foam & eggs with a thin blade%%. Clean out the egg mess, wipe away liquids. Voila, a perfectly molded 2-part container for six eggs. Put the new eggs in, tape the two halves together securely, good 2 go. %%razor knife, laser, hotwire cutter, jigsaw, etc

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG

If I use stain, I'd usually give it a thin coat of shellac before I start poly. If it's an oil based stain, it can get swirled around a bit from the poly (whatever solvent you use). A coat of shellac seals it in, and the poly has no problem adhering to it. A 1-2 lb cut of clear, dewaxed shellac works great. If you don't want to mix your own, this is one you can buy. You can wipe on the shellac. It dries quickly; 30 min. or so. Give a light sanding to knock off any nibs (400 grit), clean off the dust, and poly as usual.

you need something denser to absorb vibration noise, they sell a special glue you put between drywall that absorbs more vibration

edit: found it

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M5E7D0H8T4X22FHQX2PD

Bondic is mental stuff!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bondic-Purpose-Instant-Stronger-Adhesive-Starter/dp/B00QU5M4MG/

$10 fix for the faucet.

I'm wondering if you could disassemble the intake and jets, and silicone caulk some of these in.

And then insulate with spray foam?

Get some of this stuff - expanding foam - should be able to pick it up at any hardware store. It's basically Styrofoam in a can and has a flexible nozzle - you should be able to squirt it into the holes in the locker, filling it with a foam that will rapidly harden, ruining anything inside and making it very hard to open.

Don't assume anything is sealed. With most builders every element of the house goes to the lowest bidder. Conduct yourself accordingly!

Do it yourself, it is a very easy DIY task. Take particular care in high stress areas, like kitchen counters and wet areas like shower or tub enclosures.

My counter installer advised using this: http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Stonetech-Professional-BulletProof-1-Quart/dp/B00065W8G8

So I did.

I just used these fittings for my build. I tried super glue first. Would not recommend it. It cause the collars to become cloudy when the glue dried. And some cloudyness migrated up the tubing too.

I ended up buying this UV glue from amazon as i couldnt find anybody who carried monsoon's branded UV glue.

http://smile.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

This stuff was perfect. Very strong and is holding well. And it cures clear.

Yeah, if it's really bad in your place it's building-wide and you're only spot-treating by taking care of them in your apartment. To add to your list of hole-closers, I also recommend an expanding sealant. I've used it on a couple of gaps at my current place and it seems to work really well. Also, we got a cat.

At my first apartment the whole building was just infested. The super gave me glue traps. I'm way too sensitive a person to use something like that. I'm still haunted by the one and only time I disposed of one of those. So I got a humane trap, aka the Electric Murder Box. I killed so many mice I had to replace the batteries.

Yeah, I was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0

It is definitely more expensive than caulk...

i would recommend getting a can of this or something similar. Drill a tiny hole in the wall, and empty the bottle in the wall near the pipe, it expands and might give you enough insulation in there to keep it from freezing and without opening the wall up. If the wall is white get some of this and just wipe it over the hole you made, or if its in a not so noticeable place, fuck it and leave it or get some similar looking paint and cover it. This is all a last resort attempt before opening the wall and insulating it yourself, no guarantees this will work at all.

StoneTech's Bulletproof sealer is my goto product. An extremely durable finish that holds up for years between applications.

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Bondic Laser BONDING TECH SK001 Liquid Plastic Welder Complete Starter Kit, 4-Gram, 4g https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPS0CbWZEKEJY

I’ve used it for many kids toy repairs, very strong.

Oh! It's magic. Spray in whatever weird shape you want, let it expand into a shoggothian mass of foam, then carve into shape. Great for oddly shaped props that really need to be lightweight.

I believe I used Kamui's tutorials for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O23TM-z0OXk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDo83M68Kk

And the particular brand I used was this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Filler-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YW0W0/ Had to use two cans for the bow.

If there is significant rot you should look into replacing the compromised sections. To plug holes I have found "GREAT STUFF" works pretty well depending on the size of hole. They sell it at nearly any home improvement store and even Amazon

If the problem is only around the screws, your only real solution would be to replace the bad screws. Again, if you don't feel comfortable getting on the roof because of structural problems it may be time to replace the rotted sections.

Try https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_K6pSCbWV0EQPN

I used a few layers of a clear matte spray paint like this to seal it.

Bondic! Wish I could get some on my store.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Highly recommend the Mohawk Finisher's Choice clear lacquer. Goes on super nice.

Make sure you let your friend's artwork dries really, really thoroughly and apply a few solid layers of de-waxed shellac over it before the lacquer coat (I like the Bulls-Eye SealCoat stuff). If you don't, you risk the paints interacting badly. It might also be good to lay down a coat of shellac before your friend paints to stop their work soaking into the wood.

I'd suggest letting the art dry for at least 2 weeks. Apply a thin layer of the shellac with a soft brush. Let it dry for a few hours. Apply another coat, but french polish this one (so it's super smooth). Let it dry overnight then apply a third coat (also french polish). Let it dry for 24 hours then gently sand it flat with 320 grit. Then wipe it down with a lightly damp cloth (not with denature alcohol, use water), wait 10 mins, then apply another layer with a french polish technique.

After that's dried for 24 hours, start spraying lacquer! This will mean there's a solid, even layer to lay the lacquer down, and several layers between the lacquer and the art.

I’ve fixed my own a couple of times, but I’m no expert. Use something like this, your local hardware store should carry something comparable. There are videos on YouTube as well. However, eventually you will have to replace the tub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T4QCK207EX5PNZTT373M&dpPl=1&dpID=81rP39r9QOL

I swear by StoneTech's Bulletproof. Best sealer on the market, in my humble opinion:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

I've seen a vid on facebook where a guy repaired a leg with bondic. I bought some but have not used it yet.

Yeah something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Texsport-Waterproof-Sealer-Backpacks-Outerwear/dp/B000M7RRU2

/u/zodd06 mentioned bondic which I really hope I never need but that looks like a future solution.

Bondic - Liquid Plastic Welder - LED UV Light Activated Bonding Tool - Waterproof And Heat Resistant - Starter Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LyiADbXCCZXJ4
Something along these lines seems like it would work great for on the fly repairs. Im gonna take my fathers advice and just buy one for myself for the future!

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

How long since the paint was put on there? If it's had time to cure, give it a cleaning and a light scuffing. Then put a clear polyurethane over it.

If it's, say, an older piece and you want to preserve the "patina", use shellac as a barrier coat, then put the poly over that.

Or you could go buck wild and hose it down if you wanted.

That will be a problem. As others said, best solution is to replace the switch, but that will require opening up the KB, desolder the existing switch, and solder the new one in.

Temporary solution would be needle-nose plier and pull out the stem's remainder, then super-glue the stem back, reinforce with Bondic plastic welder from the outside (a little ring around the break)

This is a weakness of the floating design keyboards... not much protection from lateral forces, eps. in the corners. If you use a carrying case, think about adding some reinforcement in the bottom. Cardboard would do. If you want to go fancy I think Elite keyboards have "Keyboard tent" hard shells for sale.

Get bondic. I used to use super glue but discovered Bondic. I confirmed with the company its 100% Salt and Freshwater safe once cured. Takes 4 seconds to cure once the UV is blasted on it. The stuff is amazing.

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-24016-Plastic-Starter-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451457479&sr=8-1&keywords=bondic

I'm not sure if its cheapest but Tuff Duck was highly recommended to us and we use it on our concrete skim coat kitchen counters. It does slightly darken and gloss the finish but you can also water it down and do a 3 coat approach for a matt finish. We're about due for a reseal after 12 months of use. Its really easy to apply.

Not difficult, but you will need to glue the front face on, add terminals to the back (I use big ass bolts) and sealing can be done with a can of http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-265494-12-Ounce-Flexible-Sealant/dp/B006ZRUKHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377988314&sr=8-1&keywords=265494

But, there is no reason to get married to the box, it's just a pretty good deal. You could just get the driver
$190 shipped w/code
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-514

and this $66

http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Single-Hatchback-Speaker-Box/dp/B0050KABVS/ref=sr_1_8?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1377988594&sr=1-8&keywords=15+subwoofer+enclosure+sealed

It's a brand of Tung oil finish.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LKWLJI/

So another thought- you could wash and remove all of the old coating, and then recoat the interior with a polyurethane coating like this.

They sell repair kits (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Porc-Porcelain-Repair-Kohler-Biscuit/dp/B00LS5K7AY or https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-244166-Specialty-Touch-White/dp/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_sim_60_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006ZHVLYG&pd_rd_r=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ&pd_rd_w=QorLu&pd_rd_wg=RMece&psc=1&refRID=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ) but I don't have any first-hand knowledge of their efficacy.

I can't find a replacement piece anywhere online.

I would suggest hot-gluing it in place or using some UV curable additive plastic welding to build that area back up, then a small drill bit to reform the screwhole.

You might consider using a black liquid rubber product. Just brush it on. Or spray.

I would assume the radiator kits would be toxic.
Other info would be
Why cant you find a leak in something that is 1/2 inch big.
Needing it to be non toxic would be helpful
What is the pipe to maybe replacement is your best case
Googling "non toxic liquid pipe fixer" came back with this https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG
Good luck

24. Wall Acoustic Panels: These are useful for reducing high frequency sounds from echoing around the room. Mostly of benefit to people hearing you over microphone, such as streamers. You're unlikely to notice while gaming, especially if wearing headphones. With that said, manufacturer sold wall foam pads aren't actually so great. This [DIY video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)shows remarkably superior outcomes, plus they're way cheaper than proper acoustic foam panels. Of course, you may want to pretty them up, such as with some cheap [satin fabric](https://www.amazon.com/60-inches-Wide-Charmeuse-Costumes/dp/B07BP9XCDF/).
    
    
25. Room Sound Proofing/Deadening: Many confuse sound proofing and deadening, which is largely the fault of retailers switching between the terms and people buying products designed to do things they didn't think it would (e.g. "sound proofing curtains" is marketing bogus. There's no such thing. They are typically good for "deadening", however)! "Deadening" is for high frequency sounds, which acoustic panels (those black triangles/squares you often see on the walls of streamers) work great. Although you can accomplish far better results, for much less money, with a [simple and cheap DIY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)\- both of which are safe to home owners (no nails required). This should be beyond your needs for basic streaming or helping people hear you over microphone in-game. If you're getting way more specialized than this however, it's beyond my ability to cover, but you should start with videos likes [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYt10zrclQ&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=18)to learn more. However, for low frequency (bass) sounds, this won't help, whatsoever. What you need is "proofing". This requires heavy, dense materials (e.g. fiberglass, brick, cement, glass, wood - all should be solid \[not hollow\]). It also helps to create layers (e.g. imagine a room within a room or how double-pane and triple-pane windows have layers), such that you have pockets of air. And, for both sound proofing and deadening, but especially for proofing, you need to remove air gaps. Air gaps can be common in a home (under/around door/windows, through ventilation or A/C system, fireplace, power outlets, etc). For doors and windows, acoustic sealent (e.g. [Green Glue Sealant](https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/) \[also get a [cheap smooth rod style caulk gun](https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-3985-Half-Barrel-Caulk/dp/B0013YKMW8/)\]) and weather stripping (e.g. [Frost King Weather Strip Tape](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-White-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516WH/100119011)) will be the cheapest/effective path forward, but for those wanting to renovate, a solid core door and triple (or at least double) pane window should be your first step. For apartment dwellers, like me, you'll probably forego the bigger renovations. Start with the greenglue, then weather stripping, then (for windows) decide if you need to pay out more to fill-in a window. Fill-in, you say? Some create [DIY window inserts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPiNN9Vn3uE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=16), while others purchase the heaviest full-window covers they can find (e.g. [Acoustic Curtain](https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acousticurtain/) \[to help visualize, here's a similar product's [installation video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyJQjWTLAQM)\]). Whichever path you go, if you're able to shine a line through one end and see it out the other, then you need to try again - sorry. **If anyone has a better solution, whose versed in sound"proofing" physics, I'd love to hear about it!** Ultimately, if your walls are loud, you're going to need to do some remodeling, like shown [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATpOgogvxE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=28). And for those trying to make extremely quiet room (e.g. playing instruments in your recording studio), then you'll need to go more in-depth. Here are two very well made descriptive videos: [First](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOIAPBA2pT8&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=7)and [second](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV5RgcJTRSk&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=25)(not English, but animated video is very demonstrative). Also, for more ideas to soundproof doors, see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4uIYIQ3w1s&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=26). You can learn the science behind window sound proofing [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AQWcTLy3Xo&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=30), btw (if you've ever wondered how much better triple vs double vs single pane windows are, this will tell you in no uncertain terms). Also, for electrical boxes (e.g. power outlets), it's safer to use fire code rated "acoustic putty pads" (if you can access them from behind the wall).
    
    
26. Speakers: Most people don't know this, but some people get physically sick from a lot of bass. Sadly, I'm one of them (can't ever go to concerts). Speakers, for this reason, become a big question mark. Some terrific stereo speakers most might want to consider would be the [Klipsch R-41PM](https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-41pm-powered-speakers), however. **If anyone knows some minimal bass 2.0 speakers, I'd be quite grateful!** I'm also strongly considering [making my own speakers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU). Otherwise, I plan to use my monitor's built-in speakers for Netflix / Youtube / non-communicative video games.

It's squishy but it feels stiff? Kind of contradicting.

If you need it to have more give, use this stuff on the top part of the rubber:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it's not stiff enough, apply a very fine coat of this stuff using a paint brush to the base of the raised rubber:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGZ0MUW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Over time, the flex seal will fail and you'll need to reapply.

I'm sorry, wax free Shellac.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525884218&sr=8-3&keywords=dewaxed+shellac

We have had GSD's for the past 20+ years. This is likely our last one. He HATES the nail gun. He isn't very crazy about the garage in general but will sometimes hang out with me or will run in, steal some wood and lay in the driveway making toothpicks.

The Beast:
https://i.imgur.com/2G3YMGh.jpg

I have a Friend/co-worker with a Great Dane and they let her sleep in the bed. I don't know how they do it. He has told me stories of her stretching and pushes him straight off the bed onto the floor.

Tbh the previous owners have gone tile crazy in the bathroom and blocked access to everything. I'm just going to order this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0060X5Q0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522620068&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=button%2Btoilet%2Bvalve&dpPl=1&dpID=31pNro7S85L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1#nav-search-keywords

As a cheap replacement until I figure out my finances and what I want to do with the whole room. This is my first home so it's all a bit new to me. Thanks for your help.

I'm a big fan of wax free shellac mixed 1:1 with denatured alcohol. It's idiot proof (that's why I'm a fan). I couldn't find the right type of shellac at the big box stores, so ordered it off Amazon.

shellac

Apply it with an old t-shirt. When you cut it, it's so thin that it dries super fast. Can build up 4 or 5 coats in 30 minutes or so.

I have a leak in the toilet cistern but I'm not sure what actually needs to be replaced. The last time I had an issue with this toilet I bought and fitted this, but that isn't where the leak is coming from - see instead this image.

In fact it's not exactly a leak - it's almost as though something has got blocked, because water is squirting out and into the cistern and it fills up eventually and stops (after about 10-15 minutes) so in a sense it is working, just very slowly and with a grim hissing noise. Trouble is I don't know if the place the water is squirting out now is where water normally comes out to fill the cistern; if it is, perhaps I can just fix/unblock this bit instead of replacing anything.

Can anyone tell me what I need to do here? I'm not sure what that leaking bit is called as the 'fill valve' seems to be the other bit that I previously replaced.

Thanks for any pointers here.

This is what I use. It's basically just de-waxed shellac. This stuff is alcohol based and has a dry time of about 10 minutes. I will brush it on with a foam brush, wait till dry and then give it a light rub with 320 just to knock down any high spots or dust.

I use wipe-on poly more often than brush on. I have never used water-based though, so I can't speak to how that works. Regular wipe on poly is essentially polyurethane diluted with mineral spirits to get it to a wipe-able consistency. It goes on much thinner than the brush on stuff, but goes on much more even in my opinion and drys much faster. You can re-coat in 2-3 hours. You will need to apply many more coats when compared to brush on, I find it takes about 3-4 coats of wipe on to equal 1 coat of brush on, but you don't get drips or runs or brush marks in your finish so it's worth it to me.

What do you think if this?

https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Epoxy-Resistant-Resin-Quarts/dp/B00BJORLEE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518473250&sr=8-4&keywords=uv+resistant+resin

Probably not. Check a local paint store, sometimes they stock wood finishes, else Woodcraft/Rockler if there is one near you or online.

I've used a bunch, here is what is on my workbench today, you can get it from Michaels or any craft store.

https://www.amazon.com/Plaid-Acrylic-Aerosol-6-Ounce-CS200307/dp/B000XZXNU6/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1473074088&sr=8-19&keywords=sealer+spray

I always put a fan on the miniature after you spray it. Sometimes there is a reaction with humidity which makes the miniature go frosty white. There is a way to reverse it with a hot air dryer if that happens.

Tape? Nah, use Flex Seal, that aught to work.

The foam I used was the first that came to mind when I made it but there's probably an alternative. I wanted something that would fill the center so it was more sturdy and that I could cut and shape. It also had to be light since I'm not all that strong.

The foam that I used isn't really all that bad. Just made sure you wear proper protection (mask, goggles, etc) and have a garage or outdoors to work in.

But if you're a bit concerned still, maybe try this? It's an expanding foam in an aerosol can. But you'd have to make sure you have a tarp out since it sticks to a lot. Once it sets, you can cut at it. I'd make a shield shaped casing and spray the foam into it if I were to use it (kinda like spraying it into a bowl... except shaped like the shield). I honestly don't have much experience with it but I've heard good things about it.

I'm not sure what else would work but I hope this helps! :)

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-BONDING-SK001-Plastic-Complete/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=uv+bondic&qid=1562000740&s=gateway&sr=8-5

FYI, you get more with this listing for the same price, just in case anyone buys it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065W8G8/ref=psdc_161917011_t1_B005ZGSS0S

Ive used this a couple times: Bondic

Its a type of glue that cures using the UV light from an led. They got a few of them at my workplace and they seem pretty useful.

Edit: Just read the description, apparently its not a glue but a plastic that remains liquid till you cure it with UV light and has quite good bonding capabilities. The reviews are hit and miss so maybe it depends a lot on the bonding surfaces.

Are you able to remedy this situation at all?

Spray Insulation Foam works well.

Are your windows taped up?

Foam strip insulation around your doors and windows?

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

This product can also go years without having to reapply.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Here's a (supposedly) better one on Amazon.

It's a tung oil varnish mix, so it pops the grain and builds pretty fast. You can apply it over stain if you want, but I'd see how the maple pops with tun before deciding to stain.

As mentioned, it's pricey (like $30/quart https://www.amazon.com/Title-Waterlox-Original-Sealer-Finish/dp/B009LKWLJI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=waterlox&qid=1571064212&sr=8-5) but near bulletproof once you're done. As it's designed to react to itself, there's no 'sand between coats' required or anything else required, which makes it faster to apply.

https://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=9eff2fa9-c7bc-4cf4-972a-5d19faccfbc8

The only hiccup I've had is that it skins over quick if you don't use bloxygen or the like to keep the air out of the can.

I looked up Waterlox after your suggestion. For anyone interested here is a link to it.
And another link for anyone buying it (not an affiliate link).

Thanks for the info. Let me know what concrete sealer you end up going for lol. This product on Amazon seems to have good reviews but I'm a touch hesitant to get it.

Oh no! lol if the super glue isn’t enough you could use liquid plastic. Its a clear gel that hardens with UV light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uwg7CbBCY51YC

Hit them with some of this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CD9FGNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHY2BbCAABXEW

I've actually come to use Bondic UV plastic welder 😜

cork the hole then spray with Flex seal.

You can get it 'anywyere'; Lowe's, H.depot, Wal-Mart, hell even Walgreens and the grocery sell it.

Infomercial cheesiness aside, it actually works surprisingly well.

This will fix that right up. Its like a handyman in a can.

It's more of a joke than it ever was, rap music I mean. Some of the "classic rap" wasn't actually bad, but this new "gangsta rap" crap makes me want to spray Great Stuff in my ears.