Best playstation accessories according to redditors

When it comes to games (Dirt3, NFS) or simulators (Assetto Corsa, iRacing) it's sort of like driving a manual car, having a wheel just makes the experience much more enjoyable. As for improvement, since you can actually feel the weight of the car and the contact patch of the tires through the nicer steering wheels, you feel so much more connected to the car that you're racing with. This allows you to quickly counter over- or understeer as you can actually feel the wheels getting loose beneath you. The same can be said for corner braking situations where the car tends to get loose. Controllers also don't let you feel the bumps in the track that can affect the handling of cars in braking points or through corners. With laser scanned tracks becoming "The Norm", it's more important now than ever before to actually be able to feel the bumps that the laser scans implement into racing games. That being said, it may not necessarily make your lap times any faster but it can certainly make the experience that much more enjoyable.

In the future, if you have any additional questions regarding wheels or sim racing, check out /r/simracing.

Also, contrary to the post below, using simulation software (like iRacing or Assetto Corsa) with a proper setup (Thurstmaster T500rs or higher) can actually make you a better driver. Being able to understand the physics of a car at it's limit can not only help to improve lap times on the track but also provide a better understanding of your car in situations at the limit (accident avoidance, turning too fast, getting loose on gravel). (Source: I actually race)

My Miata friend thanks my simrig for preventing an accident on loose gravel while turning right. He swears, to this day, that it taught him how to control his car in hairy situation.

Aside from amateur drivers like myself, professional drivers in WEC, DTM, and F1 also use simulators at home and at the track when they aren't on the circuit to keep their edge sharp.

Below is a little guide I made to help users get into simracing, beware of the /u/PriceZombie.

Simulators
Assetto Corsa
rFactor 2
GameStock Car 2013/ Extreme
iRacing
Power & Glory 3 (requires GTR2)
GT Legends
DRM 2.0 (Requires rFactor)
Richard Burns Rally 2014 (requires Richard Burns Rally)
Live for Speed

If you need a wheel: (Prices are subject to change)
Note: A better wheel won't necessarily improve lap times. It just makes the experience feel more realistic.

~$129.96 - Logitech Driving Force GT
~$239.99 - Logitech G27
~$299.99 - Fanatec Porsche 911 gt3 v2 bundle
~$599.99 - Thrustmaster T500RS
~$799.99 - Fanatec ClubSport base w/ Formula Rim w/ Clubsport V2 pedals bundle.

Hope this helps!

Yep! It's cost me just over $5K including the wheel [$4K without]

My log album here

Build list Here

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $365.94
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $194.14
Memory | Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $174.99
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $97.40
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $254.29
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $104.98
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card | Purchased For $738.14
Case | Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case | Purchased For $146.99
Power Supply | Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $124.99
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | Purchased For $42.19
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $103.72
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | LG 23EA53V-P 23.0" Monitor | Purchased For $157.49
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | Silverstone FHP-141 171.0 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $14.43
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Keyboard | Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2013 Wired Gaming Keyboard | Purchased For $146.87
Mouse | Logitech G400s Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $62.98
Headphones | Astro A40 7.1 Channel Headset | Purchased For $120.00
Other| EVGA GTX 780 Ti Back Plate Cooling, 100-BP-2881-B9| Purchased For $38.26
Other| NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Wireless Glasses Kit| Purchased For $142.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $4047.17
__

I will be doing a full water loop and this is that part list with the water cooling parts, 1.8K for that

This is the wheel

Standalone shifter

Ferrari F458 Wheel Add On

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Carrying-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Black/dp/B073PVDMT5/

Fits the Samsung O+ perfect after cutting some foam out for the headphones.

Before and After comparison showing what foam I had to cut out. It was pretty much a 1 minute hack job, I didn't do a good job making clean cuts but it fits snug and secure. https://imgur.com/pmgbU6D

For the mic, I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/ if you're looking for something cheap that works. Were you able to get your Alexa working in headless mode? I couldn't get it to work following Amazon's documentation, had to reformat and do full OS install.

Not to bash the official TrackIR, because it is a very solid product... I put together something very equivalent for less about $20.

• PS3Eye - $12
  
  
• FaceTrackNoIR - $0
  
  
• DIY IR LED clip (5v supply, serial build) - ~$5-10 (SFH 485 P, 6.8ohm resistor from the local electronics store, 5v power supply
  
  I started with FaceTrackNoIR's 'face tracking' module but found it a little bit wobbly in low light, which is how I do 90% of my gaming. Building the IR LED clip and using the 'Point Tracker' module for FTNoIR gives me 98% of what the full TrackIR system does.
  
  ~Edit~
  
  Also, I didn't do anything with removing the IR filter, or adding a normal light filter. Works perfectly fine in both the wide angle and narrow modes.
  
  ~Edit2~
  
  One more thing to note for anyone going this route - you're going to want to change the defaults for the Accela mk2 filter in FTNoIR. I used the settings outlined in the PointTracker Guide and am very happy with them.

Hi, I had this problem as well. My nails somehow eroded the grip. I ordered Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers from amazon. they where little over 4 bucks and comes in small pack of 2 black set and a blue set. Working well for me.

link http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395525469&sr=8-1&keywords=Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4

Well, a mid range setup, for the basic gear, like a wheel/pedals/shifters would be something like this fanatec bundle or this thrustmaster t500rs. The fanatec bundle is $300 there, although the shifter set is generally not the best around, and the t500rs is upwards of $500, but generally has a pretty solid wheel and pedal set.

Beyond that there are custom offerings like a wheel base that you can apply custom steering wheels to, which usually cost $150-400; modified pedals that suit your preferred feel, etc.

That's only a part of the cost though, as most serious racers have some sort of "rig" that they use. Similar to this. Generally a racing chair and cockpit that would somewhat replicate a real car. Although this is on the entry side of things for a racing cockpit. That's not to mention the cost of running 3 monitors if someone chooses to do that, and the PC needed to run 3 monitors.

That's part of the reason sim racing is known more as a hobby than a game experience, the cost can really add up. Although, none of that stuff is really required to have some fun, and a basic g27 mounted to a desk will surely suffice for anyone looking to drive around.

It's a PS1 with the LCD screen attachment.

Like anything there is no agreed upon "best".

There are GelTabz....
http://www.amazon.com/GelTabz-Performance-Thumb-Grips-PlayStation-4/dp/B00GOOSV98

GripIt...

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

Butterfox (I had these for a while)
http://www.amazon.com/ButterFox-Thumb-Grips-Controllers-PlayStation-4/dp/B00J44J6NA/

Off brand silicone...
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Silicone-Controller-Joystick-360-Controllers/dp/B00OXT579S/

KF....

http://www.kontrolfreek.com/thumbsticks.html/

You'd be better off watching YouTube reviews of these various products.


None of which might fit great now that the rubber on your controller is actually falling apart. Might require some hot glue or something else if you want them to stay in place.

A lot of people eventually switch to xbox style sticks, not just because the material doesn't fall apart but because it's actually a much better design. These compared to the DS4 sticks is night and day in terms of control and your thumb not sliding all over the place.

http://www.amazon.com/GAMING%C2%AE-Original-Xbox-Controller-Analogue-Thumbsticks/dp/B00JQX91HU/

Not that hard to install. Hardest thing about taking the controller apart is getting the shell separated for the first time and the fact that the triggers and springs might fall out, so just work on a clean table where you'll be able to find the little springs. Watch videos on how to take it apart.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2

I'll give you a pass because your probably not an FGC player but it infuriates me that the Smash community cannot tell the difference between an analog stick and a digital stick.

The stick in this video is a DIGITAL stick. Likely a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT stick used in most modern arcade sticks because its cheap ~$20 bucks and works well. It is functionally identical to flattening out 4 digital buttons like the Smashbox has. https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE

Analog sticks are typically very rare and expensive. They cost anywhere from $100 for the modern Seimitsu LS-64 to $200-250 dollars for a really nice vintage Sega Analog joystick. I believe this videos creator BlackHombre recently made a stick with the analog Seimitsu which probably cost an arm and a leg for the whole setup.
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/joysticks/50-2876-00

That's why you see those Frankenstein controllers that have a gamecube controller cut in half. Replacing the analog joystick on the gamecube is really hard and expensive.
http://imgur.com/gallery/oIP7E/new

This one?

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

http://www.amazon.com/video-games/dp/B00005QI2S It was first party for the PS One

Analog stick: http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

Cost: $60

Sanwa Buttons: https://www.amazon.com/White-Sanwa-Push-Buttons-OBSF-30-W/dp/B00367KDVU

Cost for 2 sets: $30

Yes the cost is double, but then you need to consider the routing time to create the extra holes for all the buttons, assembly time, and possibly other variables. At that point, cost could be closer to each other. But ultimately, an analog stick makes more sense then "button modifiers", which is more at risk of being banned compared to an analog stick.

Researching is fun before posting.

honestly, I recommend these

you get 4 in a pack (so enough for 2 controllers or just for yours and you have a spare set)

it took a while to get on right, basically they have to be perfect or they rub the sides while using the sticks and you get resistance but now that I got them on right it's very nice, and seems to be protecting the thumb sticks.

best part is the price, after shipping mine were $9, keeping in mind it comes with a spare set of covers.

I know this isn't exactly what you want, but IMO it's worth getting them even if the controllers seem to be fixed.

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
   
2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
   
3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
   
4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
   
5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
   
6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
   
7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
   
8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
   
9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.
   
   Software:
   
   
10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
    
11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
    
12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
    
13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
    
14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
    
15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:
    
    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.
    
    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
    
    Here's a video of my modded cab:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA

Looks like a PS3 Eye Camera. You can get them super cheap, and they'll do 180 FPS @ 320x240, which I'm guessing is why this project uses one.

I hacked this one, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073PVDMT5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . just cut the middle ring out, cut some foam to accommodate headphones, glue the middle ring back with some hot glue gun and Bob's your uncle. Fit snugly.

It's dirt cheap, plenty of room for everything, also there is quite a bit of room above the Quest, so I think I will glue some kind of flap held by some magnets to make another compartment for accessories. Ordered some more foam to cover it.

One downside is, it is a bit bulky, and there is no foam on the bottom of the case. That's why I ordered some more foam.

Case: Hermitshell Hard EVA Travel Case Fits Meyoung/ELEPHAS Portable Projector 1080P 1200 Lumens LED Mini Pico Video Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072L7ZCDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PWDrDbCW2QETD

Screen - not sure it's in stock anymore, it's the 7" uhd from uperfect: UPERFECT Portable Monitor 7 Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K23TSGT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Battery is a 10,000 mah from Anker, runs about 6hrs

I used 90° hdmi and USB adapters to run cords behind the screen without too much bending/force

I really enjoyed the project but this is also an option if you're not into building your own:

G-STORY 11.6 Inch FHD Gaming Monitor for PlayStation Classic(Console not Included), With Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N485LBV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_12DrDbCQ1P0D7

You could play some old PSX RPGs with this baby.

https://www.amazon.com/Agetec-ASCII-Grip/dp/B00001ZUW8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473450158&sr=8-1&keywords=ps1+controller+one+hand

I have a disabled left hand It not fully disables but I do have nerve damage and problems with twitch gaming. But I did have a one handed controller to play rpgs with back in the day. Now thanks to playing pc and having a razer naga things are a lot easier for me.

Nah, it was a thing. IIRC it's popular for portable console mods.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

Tell them to get you the LCD screen accessory for your birthday! http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

get yourself a pair of Grip-Its, they're awesome and super comfortable.

It's pretty well known that [even though I love the controller overall] the ps3 doesn't have the best analog sticks.

Some people put covers on the analog's like these

It's one thing the ps4 really did right imo is fix the analogs. Now that I think about it, you could probably also get a ps4 controller and use it as a ps3 controller to fix your problem.

Something like Grip-Its work fantastically. They are very cheap, very easy to put on, and add a good deal of grip to your existing sticks. It's one thing if you want to tinker with the controller, but other than that, it's far simpler to put on covers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2?pc_redir=1405332685&robot_redir=1

Edit: that US$4.35 price is for two pairs.

I built a separate computer out of spare parts including a gtx560 and I specifically use it for sim racing. I have never had an issue with any of the games I play, IRacing, Codemasters F1, project cars, AC, and several others. The sim games really don't have much in the way of amazing graphics, more so the physics especially iracing. Point being is you can build a cheap computer, especially with the new ryzen CPUs. What makes it expensive is the pedals and wheel and eventually a sim setup. But you can get a g27 for decently cheap. The setup I use is from [Ricmotech] (http://www.ricmotech.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RMT-RS500-RS3-DIY)

Although I definitely started with a desk and shitty old office chair, the setup makes all the difference for me personally.

Definitely do your research before purchasing. I went ahead and purchased the [Thrustmaster RS500] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q5hizb12R57AP) and I am beyond pleased and it has lasted almost two years with no problems. There are plenty of setup guides for most wheel and pedal sets with almost all sim games.

Good write up about wheels, pedals, and mods [Here] (https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/2hyy6z/buying_guide_sim_racing_hardware_wheels_pedals/)

Also r/simracing is a great source

​

FYI: This is the steps I did for my already moded cabinet with USB encoders. I ended up purchasing two of these joysticks. They connect with 5pin cables. Keep in mind that it comes with a 4 way gate (square movement) but can be adjusted to 8 way gate (octagon movement) if you purchase the octagonal plate. I prefer 4 way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Step 1: Remove the stock joysticks by unscrewing the joysticks and ball tops / washers.

Step 2: Unplug the joystick from the encoder board.

Step 3: Place and center the new Sanwa joysticks (view from the front).

Step 4: Mark your holes and drill small pilot holes for your screws.

Step 5: Once they are screwed in, I connected the 5pin cable to the new joysticks and plugged them into the USB encoders that I have.

​

​

This is what I did as well and the remote is absolutely amazing! A perfect complement to the Shield

Two things that were invaluable to me:

You can buy a PS3 Eye Camera for very cheap on Amazon (or used from a local Gamestop) and use the far field mic on it for Assistant. In Shield Experience 7.2.3, the voice button on the Fire TV remote triggers assistant, and then the Eye Camera's mic can be used. It is an equivalent experience to using the stock remote for me.

You can use Button Remapper to remap buttons on the Fire TV remote. The app allows you to remap single, (quick) double, and long presses on buttons. The customization that I chose to do was holding down the menu button for skipping forward entire tracks. The media buttons on the Fire TV are just for seeking within the current media playing, and a skip forward button is all that I personally needed to make the Spotify experience on my Shield perfect. Do note that Button Remapper has an option to do a one time in app purchase to unlock a few more customization options, and customizing the menu button is a part of this (from what I remember).

It's crap.
Get the Amazon PSVR headset case: AmazonBasics Carrying Case for PlayStation VR Headset and Accessories, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JHgXDbR84VW1D

Lots of room, perfect if you have a DAS also ;)

For the second part of your post, I think you're talking about the PSOne with the screen attachment.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

I got these for my controllers and it covered them perfectly. And has stopped any further damage from happening. And they are $5.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

I ordered these after my thumb sticks started to peel and they fit the DS4 well.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421170053&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41QPWHzaQdL&ref=plSrch

the cheap ones are about $50 but they don't really last all that well and can be unreliable, if you want a solid one you're looking at spending about $130

also, you can only get sticks with square gates, the plastic piece that restricts the direction you can move the stick is just a square. Unless you're used to that i'd recommend getting an 8 way gate when i was growing up and arcades were still around US arcade boxes had the 8 way gates and that's all i can play with now.

I was trying to convey to people just how easy it is to cheat, and I was saying that I'd like to demonstrate it, and they were getting uncomfortable with me saying that. I was hoping to spur people on to beef up security, but instead, it seemed that they rather just continue to ignore that it's possible. I can understand that adding barriers to entry is undesirable, but we have to think of the future. You can't just retroactively decide to add rules for videos that were already made. You can't invalidate all previous runs when you suspect one of being too good, and you can't be selective if there's no true sign of wrongdoing.

If you want to be sure there's a real person putting these inputs in, then a generalized (should work for pretty much anything) method that I'd propose is having mandatory hand cams. You can get a 120 fps camera for about $6 on Amazon right now.

Only $8 in bulk pack
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/ref=pd_cp_vg_0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073PVDMT5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Check out th reviews . It should fit with DAS as it's pretty big

He could get one of these maybe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00001ZUW8?pc_redir=1413713963&robot_redir=1

A Playstation but PORTABLE?! Genius, Sony should definitely make one of these PlayStation Portables immediately.

Also, Fond Memories

I had one of these for my PS1 it made playing smash bros on long car journeys awesome

Edit: Meant crash bash sorry. This is why you proof read people

Well, you can still get them for that price on Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00005QI2S/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Can try these. The comments say they work with the Wii U Pro Controller. I use these for my PS4 controller and love them.

I had the same problem. Got Grip Its for $2 per controller and never looked back. As long as the rubber isn't already completely ripped it will work just fine.

A lot of people have. The recommended solution is thumbstick covers such as these.

The same thing happened to me. Three months after purchase, the rubber wore down to the plastic (mostly because of Injustice: Gods Among Us).

I called Sony Customer Support: (800) 345-7669
I explained what happened, and a lady explained to me directions regarding shipping the controller to this address...
MTC Fort Wayne
2505 Wayne Haven St,
Fort Wayne, IN 46803

They replaced the controller for free, however I paid about $10 for shipping (eh...). Once I got the new controller, which only took a few days, I bought these things: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398130444&sr=8-1&keywords=grip-its

If I were you, I would just go ahead and buy the grips. They're awesome, comfy, and you can't tell if there is busted rubber underneath them. If you want to know that you have a pristine set of thumbsticks underneath them, however...then yeah, call Sony and they should replace the controller if it's under their warranty. Hope that helps.

I got some of these because I had the same problem. They're pretty good. I'd prefer to not use them, but they work.

I replaced the whole thumbsticks, this is a great deal

if you don't want to open up the controller, I recommend Grip-it

these work great for me

Get these: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

The solution to your problem is under $5.00! I'll never go back to playing without them.

Yeah. I got my PS4 around March and I noticed the left stick being worn off. I never had this issue with my DS3 and they're about 4 yrs old lol

I was looking at these lately.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

No third party controllers, but you could try getting either new thumbsticks (Xbox One thumbsticks fit perfectly), or you could get a thumbstick cover.

Ive used GelTabz before and liked them. They add a good amount of gel thickness that should make clicking the joystick more pleasant.

Grip-It thumbstick covers are also considered very good.

The reason why they won't replace them without proof of purchase is due to the possibility of them being stolen. They know they're still technically under warranty, they just don't want to risk it.

You can get covers, I've heard a lot about GelTabZ, and Grip-iT. I've also read of people ordering replacement sticks on eBay, but I have no experience with that.

Just buy a pack of grip its.

This

If you aren't needing the exact cover you can get some decent ones from Amazon. I bought some from Target in the electronics section because I had the same problem and they were only about $10.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

You must be new to this sub, we've been bitching about this for a few months : ) I had the same problem, I just bought some of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1406227568&sr=8-1 Love em.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work great. Only put them on controllers that arent already fucked up though, the analog sticks without the original covers have really sharp edges that cut through any addon cover.

Grip-it $4.88 on Prime

It is a madcatz brawlstick, from the 360 days. I added my own joystick bat to it and changed the inside to be 8way restrictor way instead of 4. It has Sanwa inputs so much better than mayflash. They are like 70 used on Amazon. that is more than I paid back in the day. If you are into modding you can buy a cheap joystick case and change the parts out for better responsiveness. I get all my parts from Focus Attack

I recently bought a 8bitdo joystick so my GF and I could improve our Burgertime/Galaga/Donkey Kong experience. I like the solid feeling of the case and the fact that you can use Bluetooth or a wired connection. I was less impressed with the joystick and buttons, so I ordered this sanwa joystick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE And these sanwa buttons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KSB2YC

The bottom of the case comes apart easily with 6 screws. It only took a few minutes to pop out the old buttons and replace them with the new ones. The old joystick was then removed and the soldered-on leads were clipped. There are 8 leads, which include a ground for each direction. The Sanwa harness only has 5 wires(1 ground and 1 for each of the four directions). SO basically, I just wired the 4 ground wires from the board to the black wire in the sanwa harness. The other 4 wires were then connected to their counterparts. The wiring diagram for the joystick can be found here: https://www.focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/ The N30 usb board has each joystick direction printed on the board above the connector, so you don't even need to label anything. I set the joystick gate to 4-way, as these are the games we mostly play. All in all this was a very simple project, even for someone like myself that doesn't know anything about arcade hardware or electronics.

This.... https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240?_encoding=UTF8&keywords=playstation%20camera&qid=1491256858&ref_=sr_1_2&s=videogames&sr=1-2

It's a microphone array, originally designed for the Playstation. Cheaper than dirt. $6. Includes bonus camera.

Kind of big.

I strongly suggest taking a look at visual techniques. Jakob Engel at the Computer Vision Group at TUM in Germany has developed a technique called Digital Sparse Odometry. The source is on his GitHub page.

This technique may need to be tuned to work on smaller devices like the RPi3, however the predecessor algorithm, LSD-SLAM, was less efficient and worked on phones in real-time.

Decent cameras can be had for cheap. I like the Sony PS3Eye as it provides an uncompressed feed of RGB components per pixel at 640x480x60 fps.

Buy a cheap ps3 eye camera? Those can be found on Amazon for pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0072I2240/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503364587&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps3+eye

I keep it in a Hori NSW-038U case and since I usually travel with my 3DS and Vita as well, I carry everything in one of these.

Just get a charger that uses the front port of the controller rather than the one in the back.

https://www.amazon.com/POWER-DualShock-Dual-Charger-FREE-Cable/dp/B017IR2W5S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492905413&sr=8-3&keywords=dualshock+4+charger

I tried a few charging stands and most were either too ugly to stay in my entertainment center or they eventually broke. I finally got this Power A dual charging stand and it's been great for a couple years now. It's low profile, which is great for taking the controllers in and out while it sits on a middle shelf in the entertainment center, and feels like it's built really well. Has a real satisfying spring loaded click when you seat the controller into it. Plus it charges super fast and I love that it plugs into the wall for power so you can charge independent of the console.

Not sure this is what you're looking for, but I've been considering it: AmazonBasics PlayStation 4 and PlayStation Virtual Reality Headset Backpack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BG59N25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BbbaCbBAKN7MD

https://www.amazon.com/Link-Cable-PlayStation-All-Models/dp/B07MYVF61Y/

https://www.amazon.com/Component-Cable-Audio-Video-Black/dp/B07RXMY5CM/

Either one of these will work on that TV.

I found this guy on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N485LBV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cjcBDbJ5VPH9D

But I’m also thinking of putting a monitor in the Hitman 2 replica gun case to make something similar.

I remember there was a one-handed controller for the Sony Playstation from Agetec. It might be a viable option with a PS to USB convertor. It seems to be fairly cheap on the US Amazon site and eBay.

https://www.amazon.com/Agetec-ASCII-Grip/dp/B00001ZUW8
Is this what you're talking about? I have one somewhere and never understood it.

Ooh, I didn't know Hori did one of these. Not sure about that d-pad but having L/R on the back should be an improvement over the ASCII Grip.

> The screen is going to be the hardest part as its nearly impossible to find 10 cm square LCD screens.

I've heard that Old PSOne Screens are good for this.

Nah. This was a little 5" screen that plugged into the ps1 and used the same outlet plug! Ta da!

No issues at all, in fact the thumbsticks are the best I've ever used on a controller. You can always look into thumbstick grips if your worried about damage or if you don't find them as comfortable http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

If you are buying off ebay I know a lot of day one controllers had issues with the left stick being faulty but the normal controllers are fine

Here are replacements. Don't know how to replace them though.

Or I use these grips for my XB1. Had them since day one and my thumb sticks are still new.

My wif....er. Oh, that stick. Grip it: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395693177&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+it

Be careful when buying covers, if the sides of the sticks are worn the new grips hang lose.


https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1510000552&sr=1-2&keywords=DUALSHOCK+4+thumbstick+covers

These cover the top and aren't lifted.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip--Analog-Stick-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1397670081&sr=1-4&keywords=thumbstick+grips I bought these approx one month ago. Even though it says Ps3/360 they were a nice tight fight on the DS4 and they haven't slipped off once.

Still having this problem with my Dualshock 4. I already bought a new controller and thinking of sending the broken one back for replacement.

I've heard about Grip-iT and how good it is, you might wanna give it a go.

And for me but I really recommend these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-It-Analog-Stick-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398691756&sr=8-1&keywords=ps4+grip-it put them on tearing/torn thumbsticks and it is brilliant

I just got a new controller sent to me by Amazon US since I bought mine through them as well. My left stick had the rubber pulling off and tearing so I called their customer service line. They just asked for the order number, then added a PS4 controller to my online cart for $0.00. All I had to do was check out and pick my shipping. It really couldn't have been any easier. They don't even make you send the busted controller back. So, buy yourself some grip-its and you basically get two controllers that work perfectly fine. I ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

They fit on the PS4 sticks fine, will cover the damage on the older controller and will keep the new one from wearing and tearing until they figure out what the manufacturing issue is/was.

Is it Grip-iT?

Check out /r/steamcontrollermods as there are a few of us who have swapped to a XBone stick with good results. It does require some sanding/fitting (grinding if you get a metal stick). My issue was the same as yours except that mine also started to wear out the stick where it hits the controller case and made it feel like there was sandpaper on it. This could have only been an issue with the first run pre-orders though since I got mine in November prior to the official release.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jf7eKATqMvw
This is the first guy I've seen do it and I followed his instructions to do mine as well. He posts on /r/steamcontrollermods as well.

I used these sticks:
http://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-Aluminum-Analog-Thumbstick-Xbox-ONE/dp/B00VWOOIUQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

After a week of use I added these cause the dish on these were too big and too sharp of an edge for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

The biggest difference is that under the cup the mating surface is too tall for the Steam Controller and needs to be ground down.

It's not quite plug n play but it's not too difficult if you take your time with it.

You can do a few things.

• Buy a new controller
  
  
• Buy Xbone analog sticks and [replace them] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZSTNKW?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links)
  
  
• Buy covers which may extend the life of the rubber for a while
  
  
• Play without the rubber
  
  I'd suggest the replacement sticks. It's a bit more work to replace them, but it's worth it.

Hey there. I recommend trying these out, I find they help:

http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412104019&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+grip

I'm looking at a couple on Amazon, either

GelTabz Performance Thumb Grips - PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 3 by InterWorks Unlimited, Inc. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOOSV98/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_G5lkub1TB7EYV

Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers by Total Control http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_59lkub0ZHM3BH


I think I've heard from a couple friends that preferred the GelTabz

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/

They look goofy, but I've been using them for about a month, and they feel fine.

I've been using these on the sticks since the beginning. They do touch the screen when closed, but it hasn't had any negative effects after all these years. Well, outside of two frog prints on the screen.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415856599&sr=8-1&keywords=ps4+stick+covers

ive had these on my xbox 360 and my ps4 and they work great

new controllers are fine. If you want to be safe order grip its
That said, most people were not actually affected. Just keep in mind the ones who were affected were probably the ones who played their PS4 alot. Chances are, if they're on a gaming subreddit, they play their PS4 alot.

I've heard these work great to fix/replace the rubber grip

Sure. Here you go. The reviews speak for themselves but I highly recommend them.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Set-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478479304&sr=8-3&keywords=grips+ps4 I use these. I started off with those and also bought the same brand so I could have green and orange ones on my controllers.

I use these for pretty much all of my controllers, including the SC. Design might look a bit ugly but it gets the job done.

You could try these. I've used them before.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

Also, are either of your controllers from within the past year? Newer controllers don't have as many issues with the material coming off.

The rubber on my sticks was wearing down and since I didn't want to have to deal with replacing them I bought a pack of these. They're really easy to install and don't look that bad. They do take a little while to get used to, as they don't feel quite the same as the original joysticks, but after a little while I don't even notice them anymore.

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2
I bought these after someone suggested them on this subreddit. they are pretty good for ps4 but don't fit as snug on 360.

I bought these;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2?cache=6d5e9fb8f2a5b83c37b9ea6af791e9ac&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1404672664&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haave these on my DS4 adn they work. But my rubber never came off so not sure how or if they would stay on.

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U

or you can man up and stop blaming your tools

you need this:https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B0027Z7L5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517514742&sr=8-1&keywords=sanwa+jlf


and this https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517514860&sr=8-3&keywords=sanwa+gate


and this https://www.focusattack.com/spare-5-pin-female-harness-for-zero-delay-usb-encoder-pcb/


and a screw driver

You can get a Sanwa JLF octogate from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486516000&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=jlf+octogate

It's a matter of personal preference, but I'm a fightstick guy, so when I installed some of the buttons you used for a friend, they were way hard to press and somewhat rough feeling to me. I know the 90s arcade "feel" is "clicky" euro-style buttons, but when you get the urge to play around with the config, try some of these: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/controls/buttons/buttons-seimitsu/578-seimitsu-psl-30n

They aren't clicky, but the resistance is probably less than half (though not so little you'll accidentally press them like happens with Sanwas sometimes) and they are just buttery smooth. Arcade games are a very tactile thing to me and having some of these underhand is just so much more enjoyable. A cheaper and easier upgrade would be to swap in some good switches, like these: https://www.focusattack.com/cherry-d44x-75g-187-microswitch/

A third option is, if you want the true 90s feel, get real Happ or IL buttons. So far, I don't think Happ or IL are producing an LED version of the original, concave plunger classic buttons, but IL produces transparent ones. Put in these with a some cheap LED strips from amazon and you get the true classic feel with lights. Here they are:https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-l-translucent-concave-long-stem-pushbutton-red/

Again, this is all personal preference, but of all the options available in controls these days, the ones you have may be the least enjoyable to play with. I understand why you got them though. If you aren't a fightstick person and absolutely obsessed controls snob, the bundles available on Amazon these days make a lot of sense. By the way, the JLF clones that came bundled with the buttons is alright. If I were you I wouldn't bother replacing it, but if you're playing much other than fighting games on it, you need octo-gates on them. Playing shooters with a square gate is frustrating. Playing Pac-Man on that is damn-near impossible. Here's the gates: https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U

Again, really cool build.

It's selling on Amazon with prime for 6.99$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Nj0czbFECTB5Z

Razer Atrox(https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-controllers/razer-atrox-xbox-one) $200
Very simple to customize btw

Or

Hori RAP V. Kai(https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894) $150

A simple way to make these work on PS4 is using a X1 to PS4 converters.

Like the Brook converters for (https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-PS4-Converter-Gaming-Adapter-Keychain/dp/B01GDVGQ48) $43.90

Pro Tip: Get a Octagonal Restrictor Plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_aw_fbt_63_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3TFQJ8N725SNJZ5THP1J) $6.54

I'm so jelly. It was not out when I ordered mine like 2 months ago. It even has a touch pad! :C


Now, I DO NOT know how it actually IS, but from what I see on the madcatz description page it seems not(!) to be the case. Like this is the TES+:

http://eustore.madcatz.com/Categories-EU_2/fightsticks-category-EU/Street-Fighter-5-Arcade-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-S-for-PS4-PS3-EU.html#details-div


And this is the TE2:

http://eustore.madcatz.com/Categories-EU_2/fightsticks-category-EU/SFV-Arcade-FightStick-TE2-Chun-Li-PlayStation_2.html


I think it's suspicious how they use the easy modding of the TE2 as a selling point, but there is no mention of it on the TES+ page. So I can only assume the TES+ does not come with plexiglas for easy swapping of artworks. But I might be mistaken.


The more important missing feature is the octagonal gate. If you are anything like me, you want 8 reference points on the stick (forward, up, down, back + the diagonals). For that, I would suggest you to also order one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=61uoIkzbIuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=0BWE77QBAC38QZPYBDTE

The original gate you have in your madcatz stick is squared (only diagonal reference points). You can always try it out as it is and order it later if needed, mine arrived in like 4 days.

Just making sure you know this is a thing. (°v°)b

You can add Far Cry 4 and Shadows of Mordor to Shadow's list.

Under PC for me add Assetto Corsa and Project Cars to the list.

Looks like my racing fix won't be on PS4 unless they ever add support for more wheels. Don't see myself upgrading my gaming wheel anytime soon if they decide to keep it the way it is now. I still like using my G27 and the only wheel I would consider buying for the PS4 costs twice as much as I paid for my G27 (and that doesn't even include the shifter...)

https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3K94X8SRJ04BN&keywords=sanwa+joystick&qid=1550471653&s=gateway&sprefix=sanwa&sr=8-3

You don't think what exists? I've got an 8way stick with an octagonal or circle gate.

https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE

Mine are actually the clones in this kit though:

https://www.amazon.com/Hikig-Buttons-joysticks-Controller-Raspberry/dp/B07JFXQSM5

I expected that kit to come with square gates but it came with octo-gates. I replaced with circle gates.

Same seller (hikig-online) is one of the people selling the Amazon listing for the same part: https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE

And between both their Amazon and Ebay ratings not one person calls them out for selling counterfeits. It's probably all right. Unfortunately I can't give you 100% assurance on that because I don't see that username show up on /r/fightsticks like hklegend does, but there's a pretty good chance it's not a knock-off.

I'm running a home made headtracker with free-track that I've been using for probably 3 years now. I recently swapped out the camera I was using with a PS3Eye since they're only $8 on Amazon now, and performance is excellent.

If you know how to do basic soldering it's simple to build the point model, and the components will probably run you about $2-3... with a PS3Eye, you're looking at an approximate total build cost of $10-15 (assuming you have a soldering iron, etc).

Free-track is a little tricky to configure at first, but there's tons of good how-to's on their forums. Some people prefer the facetracknoir point tracker to free-track because it's a bit easier to set up and some report better performance. I've had mixed results with it over free-track personally.

Anyway, my point is trackIR5 + track clip pro will run you close to $200 and while I have yet to see an unbiased side by side comparison with a free-track setup, I can't imagine it's all that superior... BUT if you have the cash for one and don't like getting your hands dirty, it's a great option for that reason.

If you do end up building your own, feel free to PM me with any questions along the way.

I'm in the same boat as you. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542863572&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps3+eye+camera&dpPl=1&dpID=41KjoNsY1mL&ref=plSrch works great

You can try "Sony PlayStation Eye Camera" for only $7. xD Pretty good for its price. I tested years ago with a free track ir app. It wasn't bad and it works.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504051302&sr=8-4&keywords=playstation+camera

Define "good" quality. Looking for HD? Or just something you can tweak and make look decent? I have the RPI camera board for when I am using the PI to take long shots or timelapses. But I have 2 of the PS3 Eye Toy USB Cameras that I use for watching the house when I am out and about. You can pick it up on Amazon/Ebay/etc for about 5 bucks now a days.

Edit: Amazon link if you are interested.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/

I've been itching for some headtracking solution lately, too.

Many are saying the eventual FoIP, which will probably be fine apart from the cost of the webcam, though you can do facetracking now (not to be confused with FoIP) with a relatively cheap 120fps Playstation 3 Eye paired with something like FaceTrackNoIR that will likely work as well as it will, but may not be as easy to setup depending on how well it's going to be integrated. Using standard webcams also work, but not that well. Same issue regarding webcam framerate with using markers and IRtrackers.

And then there's Eyetrackers like Tobii, which is incredibly slick and easy to setup, only drawback is being centered in front of the capture bar as well as it being kinda' pricey.

Though what I'm really drawn to right now is magnetometer tracking with something like buying or building a small and cheap EDtracker module, or even more simply just strapping a newer phone to my head with OpenTrack. It just seems more simple and reliable overall, and doesn't require me to be constantly centered in front of my webcam for it to work well, as well as it's dirt cheap.

Just my two UEC though, really. Most will likely adopt the FoIP cam because of the social aspect of FoIP, but in the meantime spending a few bucks on a magnetometer module, or again just strapping a phone to your head, will get you as good of results as anything else.

This, 1000x this. The total price definitely ends up being under $30. as /u/jazzmasterfirefox said, you can get these cameras for under $10 at Gamestop or even Amazon. The driver to run these, made by Code Laboratories, does cost $3, however, I have found that the Eye camera is compatible with Ubuntu out of the box. So, if you have a linux streaming setup like I do, you can get a great camera for under $10.

Some Notes: this camera only records at a resolution of 640x480, so for the camera being your full stream, the resolution may be a bit low, however, I just use it in a face box, so the resolution is acceptable. Additionally, this camera captures at 60FPS natively, or if you lower the resolution by half, it captures 120FPS. The camera also features a noise cancelling microphone, which may save you a little bit of money on audio, however I can't very well attest to the quality, as I have a separate audio setup.

Okay, certainly not state of the art, but it's wireless (bt headphones and battery powered IR leds), and it only cost me about $15 out of pocket to add the head tracking.

Now, to be fair, that $15 - $8 for the IR LEDs and $6 for the PS3 Eye - is sort of an "HGTV" style cost estimate, since I didn't count the 2' length of old phone cord I cannibalized for wire, the filament or $300 3D printer to make the LED holder, the $1.50 130mAh battery I pulled from an old toy or the $2 connector from the same, or the soldering iron, holders, magnifying glasses, snips, cable ties, and sandpaper I had to use to adjust the modified PS3 Eye so it would re-focus. Nor the hundreds of hours put in by the OpenTrack programmers which I got for free thanks to their OS model. Or the 2 hours I spent wiring the @#$#^ thing up through those little tiny conduits. Or the $35 headphones I bought so that it could be completely wireless.


But, you know, aside from all that - yeah $15 and I'm now part of the head tracking crowd!

If you don't already have it, get a second DS4 and one of these chargers.

If you have some extra $$, grab another controller and get this guy. I just alternate and use one while the other is charging.

Younik VG-09 PS4 Pro Vertical Stand Cooling Fan with Dualshock Controller Charging Station 3 Port USB Hub for PlayStation 4 Pro https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N2U5A89?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf you'll thank me after you've played Spider-Man with this set up. I've been using it for a few weeks now

I have pre-ordered one on Amazon.co.uk, and I also have seen Game UK have it aswell, but not sure of other countries

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ubisoft-Dummy-4/dp/B071G84NHX

Strange link from Amazon UK though

I got this case that’s designed for PSVR, but it fits Quest with the stock headstrap OR the DAS mod and has room for accessories. I do not regret my decision.

AmazonBasics Carrying Case for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVDMT5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check out the customer images and reviews for details and pics of how the Quest fits. Out of stock ATM, but will be back soon no doubt.

I bought this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_OEC6CbEM16PH6

​

It is a bit bigger than the Power A PSVR case. But, I had to rip out some foam for it to fit the Rift S.

I've got this for my PSVR, I'll just use it for my quest as well.
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-PlayStation-Virtual-Reality-Backpack-4/dp/B07BG59N25/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=5Q2O1UO1YWOI&keywords=psvr+carrying+case&qid=1554710953&s=gateway&sprefix=psvr+carr&sr=8-11

These are the ones I use. They are really reliable and high quality but it still stretches the screen. On some TV's you can set the aspect ratio. For HDMI it's the best I know of and they have it for different consoles as well. https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pound+ps2&qid=1574439645&sr=8-1

Gaming Keyboard and Mouse for Xbox One, PS4, PS3, Nintendo Switch PC, GameSir VX AimSwitch E-Sports Keypad and Mouse Combo Adapter for Computer and Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YCWSDbFG9N5XF

There are things like this from Amazon and other places. Just be sure to read reviews and do some Goole University research before you buy to make sure it does what you need.

Awesome! If you want a smaller board😂, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZHOCb68MA5W7

USB gaming keyboards and mice are compatible with Xbox One/PS4s now apparently. (Disclaimer: I haven't tried this.)

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Nintendo-GameSir-AimSwitch-Computer/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=asc_df_B07J4N76T9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312050254073&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4657160476532492304&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010923&hvtargid=pla-572052283148&psc=1

Sounds like your TV is using the fastest type of deinterlacing for a 480i signal possible, which is called bob-deinterlacing.

bob is good in terms of input lag, but bad in terms of picture quality.

Options to mitigate this issue: get a CRT TV, get a good external upscaler that's built for this purpose. Or mod the PS2 and force 480p or even higher 1080i, which would have so little shake that it would be barely noticeable.

The most convenient and affordable option for you would probably be this https://www.amazon.com/Link-Cable-PlayStation-All-Models/dp/B07MYVF61Y

It will take the best possible quality RGB SCART signal from the PS2, then convert it to a HDMI signal. They do the deinterlacing themselves, and the picture shouldn't be bobbing.

It will be a massive picture quality bump over the standard RCA cables too.

I bought a hdmi cable for the ps2 that dident upscale that left the picture 4:3 found out i couldent play my ps1 games with it, then I bought the pond cable it forces a 16:9 aspect ratio thats not great, then i found out there's a hdmi cable now that has a switch to change the aspect ratio so the image isent stretched on non widescreen games like all ps1 and most ps2 games are.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MYVF61Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A20Z8TCB1KGM9H&psc=1

I played a few PS1 RPGs one-handed with this.

These have existed for decades.

Couldn't you use these?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GROEEO

This is why you don't give them a credit card. Go to Amazon buy a prepaid like this and use that. And use a good password.

http://www.amazon.com/PLAYSTATION-Network-Card/dp/B001GROEEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1248248241&sr=8-1

Such as this? I mean I don't ever remember buying PS1 memory cards as a kid so I really have no experience in this lol. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TEYMRI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=G3QCE94JEWAJ&coliid=I1FZ5PYC0ER9HB

you can leave it running on pause at the risk of ruining the disc...or you can stop playing, order a memory card

Seriously?

They're $0.01 new on Amazon.

Since I'm in the US I frequent ArcadeShock, Focus Attack, and Paradise Arcade Shop. For the UK however I'd assume Amazon UK should have listings similar to this one.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Sanwa-Push-Buttons-OBSF-30-W/dp/B00367KDVU/ref=pd_sbs_misc_1

Get a stick while you're at it?

http://www.amazon.com/JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Joystick-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B004CZQ058/ref=pd_sim_misc_4

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_misc_text_c

The last part I linked lets the stick be restricted to an octogon shape rather than the square gate that vanilla MadCatz sticks ship with. It's night and day for SPDs, but might feel off if you're already well used to doing SRKs with a square gate, etc. Just linking in case you're interested; I would personally never use it since I'm a charge fiend.

I just want to recommend these awesome stick grips. I never had any issues with my controller, but I bought a pack of these for my aging 360 controller I use on my PC and I liked them so much I bought more so I could put them on all my controllers (and now my roommate has them on his controllers as well).

At the very least, I won't have to worry about my controller degrading, but they are actually much nicer than the default pad.

I picked up Grip ITs and have really enjoyed them, and really good value at under $5.

They do not raise the height of the sticks but provide a nice tacky surface and I have found I am controlling games alot better

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Hey so I just asked this in another sub and two people recommended these: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

You do know they make grips for the thumbsticks?

The Last of Us

PS+ so that you get free games

If your controller sticks start to wear out get this

The DS4 is super comfortable and surprisingly light weight. The analogs feel great and soft, and their movement is very fluent. Triggers feel smooth and stick out more than the DS3 (which felt sunk'ed in), not to mention they have quick respond, because of their shape. Other than that, I advice that you get soft rubber tops for your Analogs, since a lot of people are complaining that they wear off (even tho I have not had the problem, I still bought some just for the long run - here's what I bought, which I HIIIIIIIIIGHLY RECOMMEND http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394725317&sr=8-1&keywords=Grip-iT).

Congrats and happy gaming!

If you are past your warranty, buy yourself some Grip-Its. Many people prefer to use these over the feel of the normal joysticks anyways. Beats having to buy a new controller, and you might just prefer them as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

nope, not a cliffhanger

worth more than gold in Canada: http://www.amazon.ca/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393722305&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+its

Definitely some stick covers I recommend [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409794714&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+its+ps4)

http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1410720993&sr=1-1&keywords=grip+it

I use these Grip-It covers. Cheep and really comfortable to use.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406479422&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+its

Next time, just get [some of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405196366&sr=1-10&keywords=joystick+pads). ;)

I got a set of Grip-It's and they help with the short sticks really well. https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

They're rubbery slips that go over the joysticks to prevent peeling of the manufacturer's rubber. May just be the photo but it looks like some is already coming off of your left stick.

These are what I use but there are many other options out there: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Jxv5wbYH56SB8

Sounds like you're using a controller that doesn't have a proper grip...

You might benefit from some analog stick grips

why are there 100 posts like this every week. sheesh.

simple solution - buy a pack of analog stick covers, voila! which ones you ask because your to lazy to Google or search here?

try Gripits - http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413570804&sr=8-1&keywords=gripits

I totally recommend getting this charging station. Idk what its called I just saw it in the used section at gamestop but heres a picture.


And also you should really get some of those thumbstick grips because I've read stories of people's analog sticks tearing within two weeks. Heres a link to the ones i use.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Also Don't get the sony gold wireless if you get a headset the pulse is much better. They're like the exact same headset with different looks except the pulse has the crazy bass feature you can turn on.

It took a month or two before my left thumbstick started peeling. I just bought these and it works even better so you have nothing to worry about even if it does happen.

Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers

These will give you loads of grip, are very cheap ($5 for 2 sets), and will last a while.

Buy analog stick rubber caps to protect your sticks from crumbeling apart.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Controller skin case to keep it protected from dust
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Compatible-Playstation4-Controller-playstation-4/dp/B00GLSJC72

There arent many themes to choose from but you can find them in the games category, there are a few free and a few premium paid themes.

I got a set of these from a LootCrate. Slapped them on my PS4 controller and never looked back. When I pick up my wife's controller, without them, it feels...naked. Like I'm touching something I shouldn't be.

The 3rd ones down I've used before, lasted about 2 months before they crapped out, so that's 4 months (2 sets) for $5.00 not too bad. I just got different ones from Target (can't remember the brand) that are also pretty decent.

I use these on the left stick: http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454013821&sr=8-3&keywords=ps4+grips

with a kontrol freek on the right stick. It helps with the grip but doesn't increase the height of the left stick.

Similar situation here. My tips:

• Use - as you use it, you'll get better. Crappy answer, but the most realistic one.
  
• Sensitivity Settings - Figure out what you are trying to do. If you have to lower the settings, go for it. If you need to increase it to give you that feeling of mouse/keyboard - then do it. Eventually you'll hone in on what you need your settings to be dependent on the game. Shooters sometimes have a separate down-the-sights sensitivity that can help for headshots.
  
• Controller config - There are usually 4-5 different types of config in the game's settings. For COD BLOPS3, as an example, I found the setting with jump on the L1 trigger, and melee on Circle - since I found I want to aim while jumping, and rarely melee.
  
• Comfort - They sell silicone controller shells, and many (including me) use thumbstick covers or addons (I use these, and love them.) Find what makes you the most comfortable physically (and mentally.)
  
• Aim - You can't move as much on console. Especially in shooters you should have your sights aimed where you mostly need them. In an FPS, run with the reticule around chest/head level, so when you turn a corner, you can start shooting without trying to aim first.
  
• Sounds - many/most pc gamers are used to gaming with a headset on, for FPS especially, hearing footsteps is a huge gamechanger advantage. Get Sony Golds, or Astro A40s if you have a little more money (OR a VSS optical-to-digital box + your favorite seinheiser cans if you have the desire), and go to town.

If you can't go through warranty, you can buy Analog Caps on Amazon for 5 dollars. This should fit on your shield since the size of the analog on the xbox 360 controller were basically the same. Just put it up on the analog and It's ready to go. But if you don't want this. You can try the harder way, buy parts on ebay and disassemble the shield and replace the analog. But analog caps are great and cheap option.

Pick up a set of these to keep your PS4 sticks in good shape or cover a top that the rubber has already worn off of.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

These are the ones I have

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2?pc_redir=1408077575&robot_redir=1

I bought some of these when my rubber started rubbing off.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work fine and were super cheap. Great alternative till I get the White destiny controller.

i purchased these and no issues

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased these grip covers for my 360/XB1 and they're actually pretty good. If they get gunky, you can always wash them by peeling them off and washing them.

You can get Some good ones from Amazon, here try these GripITz http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397819591&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40 Some Guy is selling these Covers, gonna buy these not GripITz http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU0UDIY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397819591&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

Why does no one carry thumb grips?! I went to Wal-Mart, Target, Game Stop, Toys R Us, CompUSA and BestBuy. No one had any kind of thumb grips. I wound up getting these from Amazon.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2

Rubber thumb grips provide a lot of friction.

Really like the Grip It stick covers

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-4302419-9196951

I'm used to the hold that Daigo is showing, currently trying to get used to it with 2 fingers on top, as personally i feel like my ring finger gets in the way of speed.

As for the gate: you've got to try what works. I grabbed an octo-gate and was riding the gate for a while. Friends tried to tell me how bad it was until one day i was playing locals and the stick i was using was a square so i just went with it. holy crap. i felt like the training wheels broke off of a bike while i was riding. Not only was i able to use less energy by throwing fireballs with a very small notation, but the "tiger knee" input became real, and it was like learning to shoryuken all over again.

if you're an amazon prime user, you can pick this one up and give it a try while getting it quickly and having amazon's easy return policy.

If you buy a stick, especially the hori rap 4, make sure the gate is octagonal or circular. a majorty come with a Japanese square gate with the latter it will feel like the more traditional american arcade sticks.

I agree with /u/ChaosHat as someone who also used an octo gate for a while that life after using one is a bit better, but that's just personal preference.

Amazon actually has them in stock (and prime eligible to boot) but just know that right now if places aren't sold out, then they're selling for higher than usual. Gates are cheap enough though that the "higher than usual" price is still only $10.

I can vouch for number 4), as I'm still always mashing my stick to the end of the gate. Definitely practice realizing that you do not have to mash the stick all the way till it stops.

Also I would invest in buying an octa-gate from amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U). Its a preference thing, but it helps me when playing with Ryu and needing to get off a dp quickly. The madcatz TE sticks are nice cause you can just push the button to open the top and switch out the gate in all of about 15 secs.

I was also perplexed at first by the convex buttons, but they are second nature now, and I think I prefer them over the bowl shaped ones, but like others have said. These are easy to replace if you want something different.

Good Luck and stick with it!

https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U

This was the one I was looking at specifically. (https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004AU0H4U&pd_rd_r=VQ8SQBR63J75W000T081&pd_rd_w=oE2PY&pd_rd_wg=XYPss&psc=1&refRID=VQ8SQBR63J75W000T081)

I'm used to Dualshock sticks, which I think are octagonal. I'm not against learning squared ones though. I feel like getting a Sanwa would give me an excuse to learn how to work on a stick internally too.

And again, thanks a whole lot for the help.

I'm looking to replace the square gate in my Qanba Q2 pro with this Sanwa GT-Y octagonal gate. Is there any size difference between mountings for gates that I should be looking for or is there a one-size-fits-all mounting?

$5 each: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AU0H4U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent answer, thanks.

I have the following coming this week:

Qanba joy stick

Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor

Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick

Basic, middle of the road stuff. I was thinking of doing one of those Raspberry pi inside of a fight stick setups, but I kind of like the look of the Vilros mini NES.

Thanks again for the response.

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463085209&sr=8-1&keywords=Thrustmaster+T500rs

look no further, works on PC :)

BTW...Thrustmaster wheel blows the G27 out of the water. Check out the reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301327308&sr=8-1

The wheel, pedals, and shifter are by thrustmaster and are roughly $700 total. Not sure how to get 3 screens set up on the ps4, but this is not a cheap set up. I really hope Logitech figures out how to get their G27 to work with the PS4.

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Add-On-Gearbox-Shifter-playstation-4/dp/B00MAXOTB6

Thanks for your post ! Since I created this post I saw some new wheel that might be cool. Right now I'm looking over :

https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T300-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=pd_cp_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y38YKBPK1V3WBAJDGN6A
or
https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494250893&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster+t500

or should I keep G29 ?

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6

Has three pedals but no shifter.

What about something like this?

^^^^^^^^^^^.


Category | Item | Description | FFB | Rotation | Pedal Count| Compatibility | Pros | Cons | Price $US | Reviews | /r/SimRacing threads | Notes
-----------|------|--------------|:----:|:---------:|:------------:|----------------|------|-------|-----------:|-----------|-------------------------|-
Wheel Pedal Combo|Thrustmaster VG | Basic wheel and pedal set with no clutch | No | Unknown | 2 | PC, PS3| 11 action buttons + D-Pad | No FFB, No Clutch, Plastic pedals | $69.99 | Amazon, | Link |
Wheel Only|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Pedal|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Cockpit|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Stand|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Mod|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Misc|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-
Wheel Pedal Combo|Thrustmaster T500RS|A step up in pedals over the other thrustmaster wheels in the list. Very similar to the 300, this thrustmaster is bigger, faster and stronger than the rest of the wheels in their lineup and also comes with a three pedal setup and Paddles (H-shift sold separately)|Yes|1080°|3|PC, PS3, PS4|Powerful, accurate force feedback|Brake pedal not awesome but aftermarket mods exist|$587.18|Amazon, ISRTV, Engadget|Link|Varies from game to game. In the event of upward compatibility with PS4™ racing games, it will only be recognized in the game, and not in the console’s menus.

SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick 4 & 8 Way Adjustable (Mad Catz SF4 Tournament Joystick Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRamDbF5E8NQV

I did not use the Sanwa bracket since I didn't want to drill new holes. I used the one that was already there and mounted the new Sanwa on it.

I used Sanwa joysticks and buttons:

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE/

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Dark-Sanwa-Buttons-OBSF-30-B/dp/B004R6EAYA/

For a nice all-in-one cheap solution, I'd go with the Elite F300.

If you're willing to mod, then I'd suggest a 8bitdo N30 w/ Sanwa buttons and Sanwa joystick. This will give you the same as above but with bluetooth and I'm pretty sure it will eliminate the need for an extra controller to get it hooked up to xbox/ps.

If you're looking for something bigger but still cheap, then I would have to suggest a used Razer Panethera or Hori RAP 4 on Amazon for about 100-130. The returns on Amazon Warehouse are usually people who tried the stick for an hour or two and didn't care for it. They're usually pretty damn nice and offer around 30-40% discount. I once got a "used" display shelf that still had all the protective material on and around the shelf, like the sticker kind that you can't re-apply... so I guess somebody literally just opened the box and said well nevermind and returned it.

Amazon Sanwa is real

I wouldn't recommend the PS4 camera at this moment. I'm going to try and get the ps4 camera working with the service because I need it for work. BUT it's not a feature I've written yet. Also the PS4 camera has a special connector you need to make an adapter for to work on the PC, see notes here. It's actually a USB3 camera, but Sony decided to used the special AUX adapter. The special AUX fitting has to be purchased from China (via AliExpress) so it takes a while to get. If you're prototyping at home, two PS3Eye camera are fine and they are dirt cheap on Amazon

EDIT: Oh and you won't get the controller fully working over USB. If I recall correctly you won't get controller packet updates when it's connected via USB (has to be connected vis bluetooth).

PS3 Eye - $4.74

+

CodeLaboratories PS3 Eye Driver for Windows - $3

It's only 640x480 but it does 60fps and the price can't be beat. I don't really get why anyone needs an HD facecam anyway.

I had the same mic and was rather disappointed with the quality. It only worked well for when I was close to it, so keep that in mind.
The best working microphone for voice control so far for me seemed to be the Playstation Eye which costs about the same. It is bulkier due to the camera however, but why not integrate it as well into the mirror? :)

I use this from across the room and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503957345&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+eye+camera

The pseye is cheaper than you're asking for brand new, and I think I've seen it as low as 4 new.

The playstation cam is a pretty golden standard for cheap cameras and octoprint as far as I know. Can even find mounts to 3D print for them. Not bad for 6 bucks.

Sony PlayStation Eye Camera (Bulk Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072I2240/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UFQCb4ZZ0NG4

The guides are a bit scattered around the web, I'll run through the basics of what you need.

I got these leds from LEDsupply, they were 60¢ a piece, and you need 3 of them.

You also need a resistor which are $1 a piece, and you specifically need a 70 ohm resistor. At LEDsupply, at checkout there is a additional order notes box that you need to specify the ohm rating of the resistor.

Then you need the PS3 Eye webcam. This webcam is capable of 120fps at lower resoultion, and 60-75fps at 640 by 480. For $7.29 you can't beat it. You also need the CL-Eye-Driver which is around $2.00 from a third party.

Additionally if you don't have any, you will need some small wire which is 25¢ per foot, a spare long usb cable that you will be cutting (I used an old turtle beach wire because it was so long), and some blank film negative.

For tools you are going to need a soldering iron, solder, a file, and possibly a hot glue gun.

The wiring diagram is super simple (substitute that resistor with yours, ignore the fuse) and you can mount the led's to a hat, or make a clip, whatever is easiest for you.

Download opentrack and take a look in the PointTracker>Settings>Model section and you will see different models you can make. Once you make the model you just put in the dimensions of the led's in there.

After all is said and done you have to file down the LED's to a flat, rough surface so they don't shine so bright into the webcam, and it gives them a wider field of view. This project was cheap and fun and the result is totally awesome. Feel free to message me with any questions.

P.S. If you decide against the 5v usb wire to power the leds, and want to use a battery instead, your resistor is going to be different!

Link to sale

For those who might want one similar https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Playstation-Console-Shaped-Messenger-Bag/dp/B00PLQKFZ8

US Version

You're not doing it right if you've had three fry on you. Seriously. I have seven and they're all working perfectly.

Try using these to charge your controllers. All of mine sit on those to charge. I never use the USB connector to charge.

In my opinion this is the best charger on the market...a little more pricey at least at amazon. But a very good charger.

https://www.amazon.com/POWER-DualShock-Dual-Charger-FREE-Cable/dp/B017IR2W5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498837985&sr=8-1&keywords=power+A+dual+charger

I charge mine from the bottom:
http://www.amazon.com/POWER-DualShock-Charger-Cable-playstation-4/dp/B017IR2W5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1454083671&sr=1-3&keywords=ps4+charging+station

@AllGamingDealz:
>2016-03-20 21:20:07 UTC

>POWER A DualShock 4 Dual Charger with FREE USB Cable for $19.41 (Reg. $34.99) amazon.com #ps4 pic.twitter.com ^[Imgur]

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Dualshock Charging Station -

https://amzn.com/B017IR2W5S

Is this the one you mean? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N2U5A89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfMJBbJRVV6NT

I doubt you really need one, I haven't had any issues with overheating or performance issues brought on by overheating (they way you get with PC) but this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Younik-Vertical-Dualshock-Controller-PlayStation/dp/B01N2U5A89 has charging stations and usb ports

£15.99 on Amazon in the UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071G84NHX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&keywords=playstation&qid=1563197896&s=videogames&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&sr=1-3&fbclid=IwAR3dLzSI24ZCmR5zAXZJ9AkpRW3DZvbwpbQ5VeD1J6MF2ubQSyBKMYxeb9A&linkCode=sl1&tag=magcas-21&linkId=d565c34595cd50d34b7ed0f9d5d63094&language=en_GB

Pre-order now live

​

Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071G84NHX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

GAME UK: https://www.game.co.uk/en/playstation-classic-2388833

ShopTo UK: https://www.shopto.net/gadgets/GAPSC-playstation-classic-2-controllers-20-preloaded-games

I also bought the AmazonBasics PSVR case after I tried out the Apache 3800. I like the PSVR a lot more!

Even though the physical dimensions are smaller, it seems to fit my Frankenquest much better!

Here are a few pics: Frankenquest Case https://imgur.com/gallery/w8oHlW9

And the Amazon link AmazonBasics Carrying Case for PlayStation VR Headset and Accessories - 15 x 10 x 8 Inches, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XG2nDb5G6RES5

Although it's now showing unavailable on my end :( Hopefully they'll get them back in stock soon!

This is perfect
https://imgur.com/UQvyt8Y
https://imgur.com/sjsrgaP



https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Carrying-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Black/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=amazon+basic+vr+case&qid=1574188031&sr=8-3

Sorry for the late reply! some people told me about the RAZERBP17 17" Razer Pro Tactical Backpack, but I feel it will fail like the others products I bought in the past. I also saw this backpack that seems capable of storing the vive Backpack AmazonBasics PlayStation 4 and PlayStation Virtual Reality Headset Backpack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BG59N25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RrJVBb0MFXFG3 I figured out that maybe If it can store a PlayStation and its vr MAYBE it could fit the vive.

Amazon has a backpack in their basics line that fits both. $70, 4.5 stars, 13 reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-PlayStation-Virtual-Reality-Backpack-4/dp/B07BG59N25/

https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1NEY0U0GJTKAO&keywords=pound+hd+link+cable+for+playstation+2&qid=1567019719&s=gateway&sprefix=pound+hd+cable+playstation%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2 is this the pound cable?

Amazon

I can't find anything I'd recommend on aliexpress, sorry.

Some regional versions of the B8 have component input via an adapter but it's unclear which do.

Cheapest path is the pound HDMI PS2 cable for $29, this can upscale to 720p but it's main downside is it darkens the image a bit.

The Retrotink for $99 can do line doubled 480p output, it will give an accurate output, costs more though and uses mini HDMI output so be sure to get a mini to regular HDMI cable.

Not too expensive + good = pound HDMI.

There are cheaper devices on ebay that look terrible and crush the darker colours, and more expensive options like retrotink or OSSC. personally im happy with RGB scart. I've heard good things about the pound cable though. https://youtu.be/mAge8SidnX4

Most lcd tvs don't support 240p over component or hdmi. PS1 games are mostly 240p. Your best bet is the pound hdmi cable, since it uses RGB output and then upscales to 720p, so your TV is being fed 720p, which it can correctly interpret.
https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ps2+hdmi&qid=1572460939&sr=8-6
However, this isn't compatible with progressive scan, so I'd still play ps2 with the adapter you currently have in order to take advantage of 480p and get optimal image quality.

For the Playstation 1 you'd need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT (called an HD Link)

For Gamecube - something like this: https://hdmycube.com

Feel free to shop around though

My good sire! I would recommendth the Gamesir AVX I believe it is called! It around a 100 buckos but it’s a great deal for sure! It is half a keyboard and half a mouse. This is done to take up less space and to be more comfortable. A link to the truly incredible device!

Actually I'm thinking of this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g03yCb2CHE63Q

Which is read as a controller input.

Its really up to sony to support it, i know that microsoft has fully supported mouse and keyboard for the xbox. however there are things you can buy to simulate a mouse and keyboard on ps4.

A cheaper option here

Also the more expensive one

If your TV has composite inputs (the red/white/yellow RCA plugs), you can get those cheap on Amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Meters-Composite-Cable-Sony-Playstation/dp/B06Y5KJ2XK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VKCIIBOJ9HB1&keywords=ps2+av+cable&qid=1567831074&s=gateway&sprefix=ps2+av+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3


Even new model TVs these days typically have at least one set of composite and/or component inputs; If not the actual RCA plugs on the TV itself, they usually connect via a breakout adapter that they include with the TV.


If you have none of the above and HDMI is your only option, you can get a powered HDMI adapter for the PS2's AV output instead.


https://www.amazon.com/Link-Cable-PlayStation-All-Models/dp/B07MYVF61Y/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2VKCIIBOJ9HB1&keywords=ps2+av+cable&qid=1567830916&s=gateway&sprefix=ps2+av+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-7

Controller Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07543W7XS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

HDMI Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MYVF61Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I have this one and it's pretty slick https://www.amazon.com/G-STORY-Monitor-PlayStation-Classic-Included-Carrying/dp/B07N485LBV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=playstation+classic+case+with+screen&qid=1564874385&s=gateway&sprefix=playstation+classic+case+&sr=8-1

Have you tried these? Game changing feel over both PS4 and XBone thumbsticks -- http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Yes that's unfortunately true, but it's not exclusive to NBA 2K lol, it'll happen in any game with a lot of intense stick movement. I've taken like 5 controllers total to exchange at target, until I finally bought some grip covers (Here). It works like a charm I must say and don't have to worry about it anymore.

It still sucks that it happen, however at least Sony has acknowledged it

[edit]: So the trick I did (i think this only works if your ps4 controller is in good condition besides the thumbsticks) is bought a controller at target and just put the old controller in the new package, and went and exchanged it for a new one. You can even get a full refund I believe if you don't want the extra controller. Obviously don't be obvious about it, do this in the span of a week or so. Not in all the same day. And you don't have to either, just use the new one and return the old one in a few days saying the new one ripped. Or exchange.

Also don't forget to get some gripit thumbstick covers.
Also you might want to double check if you can get the full refund, I'm not 100% sure.

I use these stick covers on all my controllers, and I'd highly recommend them. No sweaty thumbs, good grip, easy to install/remove, don't damage your thumbsticks (and keep the DS4's natural grip coating from rubbing off), and they're only $5.

For those who have the thumb grip wearing off problem. My solution was to buy these guys and slap em on!

http://www.amazon.ca/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-Standard/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453214362&sr=8-1&keywords=stick+it+thumb+grips

they work great and is not a bad investment. I also like how they feel.

you can buy replacement sticks for pretty cheap, or you can buy a cap for it.

i have these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CW5NKWG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0T5X9KH3YD37KF2FCHGG

Sadly no.. but I highly recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah the stick you linked is good. You can get an octo gate for an extra $9 or so here http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_vg_text_y

TBH you should just learn to play on a square though.

A few people have said, that you can get that stick for $79 shipped from madcatz during tournaments. That is kind of true, they usually offer $50 off (retail on their site is $129), however, they have been out of the stick for 360 for almost 3 weeks already, and you can see on amazon's site, they estimate 3-5 weeks before they get anymore.

https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/

Buy a pack of these. I own them and they work great for me!

I ordered these and they work great on my launch day ds4.

https://www.amazon.ca/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Standard/dp/B003NSLGW2?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

Or for $5 and no hassle in taking the controller apart, get some Grip-Its off Amazon.

Alright guys. Sony fucked up. Not everybody uses their PC's for gaming, some of us use our PC's to create, make something meaningful to ourselves and other's, ie. not wear down our motherboards by constantly overclocking our systems through these resource hogs that produce nothing but a brief, if fleeting, good time. You must be proud. You did absolutely nothing to deserve it!

Go ahead and downvote this comment, but before you do, think for a minute about why you're doing it. See, I was debating whether or not even bringing this up was a waste of time, but if it gets any number of you to think for one moment how petty you're being, taking the time of day to hate on a corporation that you're obviously avoiding, then this is worth the hit in downvotes. Because ironically, your outrage is precisely as meaningless as these stupid votes. If anything, it will be a tangible indicator of the senselessness of your rage. A metaphor, if you will.

Get this, guys. I checked my bank account to see if any money was missing (because, in case you might have guessed, I'm a proud owner and user of a PS3), and not only was it all there, but, I shit you not, I have no reason to make this up, I found a $5 charge on the 18th to the Playstation Store that I'd forgot about. Yes, it was my purchase, and the amount I put in should tell you that it was a small purchase, for an add-on to a game. The reason I bring this up is, Sony is saying that between the 17th and the 19th is when they were stealing the credit card information. So here, I have actual tangible proof (not this speculation over previous passwords) that my account is safe. But I'll bet you don't feel any better now, do you? Because this has just taken away your reason to flame on Sony.

Let's look at a few other points that you guys have overlooked because of your unearned indignation:

• One of those pre-paid check cards you buy at CVS or the grocery store works on PSN too. In fact, Sony has its own pre-paid cards. Can't steal bank account information when the card isn't tied to the bank account, now can ya?
  
  
• Playstation 3 has the exclusive titles market cornered. Gran Turismo 5, SOCOM, InFamous. C'mon, admit that you're just a little bit pissed right now because you wish you could play these games. Also, you'd think that this would be an enormous deal on the SOCOM 4 forums, right? I mean, you do realize that SOCOM 4 came out the same day as Portal 2, don't you? No?! Right, because most of you don't known Playstations, because you keep having to justify using the enormously vast capabilities of today's personal computers to bleep bip blop on computer games, and spend that much more of your paycheck upgrading every few months, right? Gotta have that extra super cool graphics card, don't ya, or the game won't work right. Not my problem, the system's set to play every game made for it. But that's beside the point. The point was that you'd think that on the SOCOM forums everybody would be shitting themselves the way you guys are, right? Right!?? Nope, look for yourselves. Still talkin' about SOCOM, and the network being offline. As of this post, I see one thread on credit card theft. And again, these people own and login from their Playstations!! Meaning, they have a much greater investment in this subject than you do!
  
  Man, this has already taken up more time than I wanted. Look, I don't like that Sony fucked up any more than you guys. But I think the animosity has a little bit more to do with bitterness that existed before it happened, it's pathetic, and really, someone had to say something about it.
  
  TL;DR Well I guess you should probably learn, then.