Best socket wrenches according to redditors
We found 259 Reddit comments discussing the best socket wrenches. We ranked the 142 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 259 Reddit comments discussing the best socket wrenches. We ranked the 142 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Be careful: they are certainly less appealing than quick releases or even hex nuts, but they can be unscrewed really easily with one of these. A couple years ago Pinhead started including brackets with the setup that make that method impossible, though. You can get the brackets sent to you from Pinhead if you have older ones.
Sure, here goes, but its up to you to figure out what is what:
This jacket was from the first run of jackets. The quality is great, and has improved since I got mine (my buddy got one from the next production run). Pockets for armor, good for 3 season riding (with some layers) Plus my tablet fits in the back protector pocket.
Snell & Dot rated, good airflow and visibility. Installing a sena headset onto this was a breeze. Currently covered in bugs.
The camera is pretty shitty but it's better than no camera. I try to use it as a dashcam. The build quality of the device is not the greatest as one of the clips on the device has broken off and I contacted customer support with no response whatsoever. Audio quality is good though. They are releasing a new device, the Sena 10C Evo, that looks like it solves some of the issues with the 10C.
These are awesome and cheap. They live in the pill container on my keys. So much better than foam earplugs.
I just use the handheld one from bvv. Can do 100 carts faster than those machines and for capping we use one of those universal sockets like this
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Kusonkey-Professional-7mm-19mm-Handyman/dp/B073PRY9W6#
Then attached to this
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZsbZmB69Ck3PpRtR8
Can crank out carts 100 in about 5 to 10 min
Apparantly... a gator grip makes pretty short work of most locking wheen nuts according to me mate who works at a garage in hartlepool... they have to deal with people who didnt leave the socket in the car for the garage.
Its real: http://www-us.wera.de/koloss0.html
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Koloss-Square-Ratchet-Hammer/dp/B004ISLNQA
Hex bit socket like this
I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).
Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.
The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.
https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-HBR5-ToolsHBR5-Ratchet/dp/B003TSMQWU/
Used to find them from Husky tools. Take it apart, heat and bend, put it back together. I have two. One molested, one unmolested.
Not sure if the link worked
Like others said, lights (rechargeable), creeper, good jack and/or jack stands, magnet bowl, magnet's pen(see link), torque wrench, breaker bar, Car ramps. Or maybe if you have a harbor freight in your area a gift card there. I use to always buy craftsman tools but with them(sears) hurting so bad lately i have started buy HF stuff because they make warranty exchange so damn easy and stuff is cheap in price.
Link 1
Link 2
Link 3
Dont go off the brands i linked just the type of tool itself. Also a vice, or C-clamps, or portable speaker to use while working on said car. :)
I hope this helps you some...
You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.
You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).
You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.
If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.
Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.
A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.
If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.
TEKTON 14932 3/8-Inch Drive x 7-Inch Low Profile Polished Ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLY1CDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lUjNAbK9EJN82.....check out all tekton stuff. I've had a ton of luck with their ratchets and sockets....
Before anything else: Someone else said jack stands - get them. Don't die under a car. I almost did, it's easier to fuck up than you think.
I have the 1.5 ton HF aluminum jack, I wish I had gone for something a little bigger. It doesn't really have the lift height for bigger jobs.
Another thing I don't see mentioned: LIGHTS. I keep two of each of these in my garage:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2HTGFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015UC17E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plus I have the Braun (HF) flexible work light:
https://www.harborfreight.com/390-lumen-magnetic-slim-bar-folding-led-work-light-63958.html
This thing is great, but I have the typical HF complaints about quality especially around its willingness to charge all the time. I put a washer on the battery and that seems to have solved the issue for now.
I wouldn't mess with a pneumatic impact unless you find yourself in a situation where you really need one and can't afford an electric. Your compressor flow rate has a lot more to do with its ability to run air tools than anything else, and unless you really have a shop quality compressor you won't run a pneumatic impact very long.
I'd wait until you really need an impact and if you find you do, I'd suggest this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-20-Volt-Max-1-2-in-Drive-Variable-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included-and-Charger-Included/999947862
Now it's not the best electric impact you can get - the Milwaukee and Makita versions are both marginally better - but it's available at every big box store, and when you factor in the cost of batteries it's WAY cheaper.
For hand tools, I'd go 100% harbor freight (pittsburgh). Most things can be done with 3/8" and a lot of extensions, but having 1/2" is really helpful. If you use it enough to break it, upgrade then. I use 1/4" for lots of things but it's a luxury for the most part. Get metric deep and standard depth sockets. I also consider ratcheting box wrenches nearly a necessity. Again, the pittsburgh set is a great deal for what you get. Get all the lengths of extensions you can.
If you find you want (or need) nicer hand tools, my next step up is generally gearwrench. This set is one of the few things I might consider a splurge on out of the gate:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTEXPDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need a torque wrench. Someone else suggested the tekton 1/2" drive and I 100% concur if you had to pick one to start with. Make sure you learn how to use it and how to properly store it. A deep lug socket (19mm or 21mm usually) is your friend, figure out what size your lug nuts are.
I can't live without a couple pairs of vice grips. They're by far my favorite tool for grabbing spring-loaded hose clamps.
You need at least one dead blow hammer. They're cheap as hell at harbor freight (noticing a theme?)
Magnet trays are usually free at harbor freight with a coupon and purchase. Get a nice stack of them, they're priceless.
Other Odds and ends that I use a bunch:
Finally, abuse www.hfqpdb.com - there is often a coupon for whatever the hell it is you're gonna buy at harbor freight. If not, use the 20%.
I'm sure I'll think of a bunch more stuff later on
Edit: I told you I'd forget some stuff.
Prybars are a must have
A pick set is nearly a must-have
One of my favorite things I've done is get a big bulk food scoop from GFS and put it in a 5-gallon bucket of oil dry. You end up needing it a lot.
Fair enough but because I wished to avoid doing actual work I googled the devices reviews and Mr/Ms queef is correct in the fact that this device does often easily break when presented with anything but light duty.
I accept your statement though that just because things have moving parts they aren't necessarily prone to breaking but doesn't moving parts increase the likelyhood of breaking?
Bit slip is most of the reason for rounded Allen (hex) wrenches.
I pretty much scrap using regular Allen wrenches for driver bits, and use an adapter for a 1/4” ratchet like this. Bonus is I can use my cordless Milwaukee ratchet and zip off a bottle holder or a seat really quick, or bolts for a rack, and your hand puts pressure on the bit to keep it seated in the bolt.
I usually have luck making a flat edge on a rounded bit with a bench grinder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5G7LU/
My bad. Shoulda realized you were missing the ratchet too! 😜
From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.
However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:
Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.
Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.
Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)
Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.
Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.
This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...
Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)
Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.
Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)
Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.
I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.
The only suggestion I have is to buy a high quality extension in the shortest length you can and still reach the socket. Also, don't use your ratchet on this you may break it. You should be using a breaker bar
well there's this thing
Now is the time to buy a decent set of hand tools, I wish I could go back to A&P school and get that sweet discount. It was 50% when I was in school and I bought a nice 42" roller cabinet and probably $3,500 in hand tools. I wish I had bought more, the problem was I obviously had no idea what I would actually need/want but a good basic set of combination wrenches up to 1", angle wrenches, 1/4 and 3/8" socket sets shallow and deep should be on the list. Also snap on makes a nice ratcheting screw driver, standard size and stubby size you should buy, you will get tons of use out of them and I rarely if ever use my standard screwdrivers. Other than that ask what the instructors or go and actually talk to someone working in the field somewhere and ask to see their boxes and ask them what tools they recommend. I'd recommend against the big pre-packaged sets since there is a bunch of shit in there that you would rarely use. Also craftsman does (or at least used to) have a "professional" line of hand tools that are very high quality and a good bit less expensive than the snap-on stuff, I've got a few of those ratchets and like them a lot. Make sure you buy high quality tools, this is something that you will be using every day, sure some cheap wrenches fit a nut like the expensive ones but the expensive ones are a little longer, polished and cast/machines to tighter tolerances. The extra $50-$100 spent is well worth not busting your knuckles when the wrench/socket slips off or your hands wear raw from using unpolished tools.
Also, buy one of these and thank me later. You'll use it almost every day.
https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-HBR5-ToolsHBR5-Ratchet/dp/B003TSMQWU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Here's one that's 1885 ft/lbs. I imagine you might be able to find other 1" drive bars with a higher rating.
Respectfully, I have to disagree. While the Chapman set may be much more common, the Wadsworth mini ratchet is the king. The Chapman has its place, but this is a superior tool on every level, except price.
https://www.amazon.com/Wadsworth-Ratchet-Super-Deluxe-Tools/dp/B0000WTWZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473656504&sr=8-1&keywords=wadsworth+ratchet+set
I bought a cheap low profile adapter set that doesn't add much length and it's held up for about a year so far.
ARES 70198 - Low Profile Impact Socket Adapter Set - Impact-Rated Heat-Treated Chrome Vanadium Steel Features Knurling For Enhanced Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071QX59NH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GH-FDbR5Y7JHE
Here are a few examples at amazon. They should have at least one at the local big box home improvement store too
http://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J6925-4-Inch-Holder/dp/B001HW898K
http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-44498-4-Inch/dp/B000X1PBXC
If you're not hurting for money, I would recommend buying a set of coilovers instead of springs. You can adjust the ride height of your car to exactly what you want, and allow you to run a wider wheel, should you go that route in the future (the physical diameter of a coilover is smaller than that of the stock strut). That said, a set of good springs is probably better than some cheap coilovers, like some $500 ones from Raceland.
Regardless, install is something you can probably do yourself. It's actually simpler with coilovers, but if you do go with springs, get yourself a set of spring compressors (can be rented from places like AutoZone - return them and it costs you nothing), and some kind of socket with an open back, such as a spark plug socket or something like this because you'll need it.
As with all suspension modifications, it's a good idea to get an alignment afterwards as well.
I started out with just this and i had no issue till i started needing specialty junk. Codeblues and Dogbones are my best friends (These if you want more sizes), These + a larger set and a 11-1 w/ t25 security bit. Good razor and flush cuts of your choice. Beyond that its all climbing/rigging convenience stuff.
This
You can get it here
It's cut down my bloody knuckles from reaching into tight areas of my bike by at least 20% :)
Try searching for a 1/4 Square Drive Bit Holder
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-4935070-Square-Magnetic/dp/B0040UBLO0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&qid=1556205744&s=hi&sr=1-3
Edit: This one looks even better, has a quick change and is fairly cheap with lots of reviews on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&pd_rd_i=B004DYKIH4&pd_rd_r=4898ea1f-1cdc-4e75-8143-41fd0c0672cd&pd_rd_w=rhvM7&pd_rd_wg=drd7x&pf_rd_p=5c5ea0d7-2437-4d8a-88a7-ea6f32aeac11&pf_rd_r=5RV4QAAKZMRAF10V6EM6&qid=1556205744&s=hi
Similarly the VIM version. Very low profile and no extra parts needed
I've got a Gator Grip socket, but rarely use it. It's fine, I guess, but really doesn't seem as solid as the actual-size sockets.
Never tried the B&D ReadyWrench, but I do have a couple of quad-drive ratcheting wrenches. I'm pretty pleased with them, but it does seem that more often than not, none of their eight sizes are what I actually need at that moment. I imagine if I get the SAE set, I'd use them a lot more than I do the metric.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just pick up a gator grip socket.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8
That's what I use for scenarios like yours. They have them at Sears and places like that that sell tools.
A quick search on Amazon found 3 pass thru socket sets:
GearWrench
Craftsman
Bostitch
edit to add more:
Crescent
ChannelLock
Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight, all have house brand pass thru sets (husky, kobalt, pittsburgh).
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. But do you have to do this? Maybe a new wrench would be an easier route? The make these flat extenders that might get up there. https://www.amazon.com/Reach-yourself-Tite-reach-Extention-Wrench/dp/B013P4C064/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Tite-Reach+Extension+Wrench&qid=1562778821&s=hi&sr=1-4
> I don't know why anti-theft skewers are not more common on city bikes,
Because many of them can be readily compromised with a pin socket.
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4
Bit Adapter - 1/4" to 1/4" - Turn Any Ratchet Into a Driver! Now with Quick-Change By Pro Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P6GsDb0GQ5R1V something like this should work just search 1/4 ratchet to 1/4 drill or impact adapter
This is another good one. I don't use it often, maybe a couple times a year. But it's saved the day once or twice.
Video
Leverage.
I have the matco (3x as expensive) version of all of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81230F-Polish-Handle-Ratchet/dp/B000V5G7LU/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000V5G7LU&pd_rd_r=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS&pd_rd_w=itHwF&pd_rd_wg=A03cy&psc=1&refRID=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS
I have this set and the larger set and I use the shit out of them:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85988-Ratcheting-Wrench-GearBox/dp/B000T8WFBU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509582952&sr=1-4&keywords=long+gear+wrench
This: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DP240-Direct-Plug-Screwdriver/dp/B000VKX0LA/ref=sr_1_1
This: http://www.amazon.com/Delk-41128-Stainless-Hammer-Silver/dp/B002YIHEXC
Tape Measure, Level, Razor Knife, JB Weld, Mini-Pry Bar, Putty Knife / Scraper, Needle Nose Pliers, Vice Grips, Adjustable Crescent Wrench.
This: http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
This: http://www.amazon.com/IIT-99851-Twist-Tie-Cutter/dp/B004ZL3A4I/ref=sr_1_2
You'll eventually want a good drill, me personally I prefer corded to cordless (I usually hate batteries). The first saw you get should be a circular saw.
A lot of these tool selections are intentionally crappy (ie: the gator grip?!?!) because it'll get the job done 90% of the time and takes up almost no space / weight, and when it doesn't do the job, you'll know immediately and will go get "the right thing".
All that junk will run you maybe $100-200, take up almost no space / weight, and will make an appreciable improvement to your life.
/r/DIY would have some good opinions too.
--Robert
A breaker bar along with an appropriately-sized deep 6pt socket (19mm is most cars these days) should fit in your trunk no-problem and will kick the shit out of a tire iron. Should still be able to remove the wheels even if you accidentally let jiffy lube rotate your tires and they didn't bother with an appropriate torque stick.
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
I think you're thinking of a socket not a driver bit
Anyways the gator grip broke free from the infomercials and is everywhere. I saw them cheap at pepboys. They come in handy when the bolts are not confined to small spaces.
I've been trying to talk myself into buying this Wera.
http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Koloss-Square-Ratchet-Hammer/dp/B004ISLNQA/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Something like this work for you? https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-CS5B-Socket-Adapter-Kit/dp/B004GWZVTI
Thanks for the reply. Your links got me on the trail to find this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/
I think this will do nicely with the existing bits I have :)
I've wanted one of these "Square drive
ratchet withhammers" for a while:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ISLNQA/
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-97673-Impactx-Socket-Adapter/dp/B072J5RNMK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Impact+Socket+adapter&qid=1563754102&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Something like that. The big box stores all sell them. Get whatever size fits your socket. 100% get ones that are impact rated, as ones that aren't will likely just snap off.
You can use your current sockets with an adapter like that, I certainly do, just understand they are not intended for those kinds of forces. They will wear out faster and are more likely to crack or shatter. Impact sockets are recommended, but if you're not doing enough work to justify an impact wrench, it's hard to justify the cost of another set of sockets.
Maybe something like this?
I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.
Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.
Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.
Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.
Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears
Consider using a Gator Grip socket.
If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.
Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).
The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.
If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:
---
As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.
Get one of those pass through socket sets maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffcm-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB009L8GEPM
There's very little torque difference between the 1/2" and 3/8" Fuel ratchets anyways.
You're better off buying a stubby M12 or a mid/high torque M18 instead of getting virtually the same tool twice. (and yes, I would not hesitate to get rid of that corded impact wrench)
Tbh, you'd be better off buying a Fuel ratchet and a non-Fuel ratchet instead of 2 Fuels. Non-fuel has a much smaller head and could at least get into a few places that the other ratchet might not.
Also, you can always get low profile socket adapters like these.
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Heat-Treated-Vanadium-Features-Knurling/dp/B071QX59NH/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=ares+low+profile+socket+adapter&qid=1554237036&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull
And it makes more sense to step up from a 3/8 -> 1/2 than step down from 1/2 -> 3/8. Because stepping down will always add more length.
Not much you can do. Penetrating oil, heat, and if you can unscrew it a bit, try working it back and forth. Might need more pressure on the bolt too if you're using a screw driver, a bit to 1/4" drive adapter works so you can get lots of torque with a ratchet while pressing the bit into the bolt with your palm
https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4
Torx < 6 point < 12 point
As I stated elsewhere I don't think a torque wrench should be on the top of the 'recommended tools' list, esp if you just plan on doing routine maintenance. They are definitely good to have once you start tackling larger projects but a good torque wrench can be quite expensive and I think that money is better spent elsewhere when first putting together a tool set for routine maintenance.
I'd recommend:
Edit to add:
Use a pass through socket/ratchet like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002U2ODO/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1398627779&amp;sr=1-11&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Then use something to hold the notched end on the top and slowly work it with wd40 or something similar
I'd try this thing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8?pc_redir=1410455899&amp;robot_redir=1
Here are a bunch of links for you.
http://chrisfixed.com
http://m.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-professional-flex-head-ratchet-62331.html
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R58MwuhTsQk
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MWVAUT6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473993409&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=tekton+breaker+bar&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31DX3Xak3oL&amp;ref=plSrch
> Yep, get those BGS flare nut spanners
Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.
> The screws holding the caliper bracket however might as well be welded in - those were a son of a bitch to loosen up.
Fuck me -- mine was in so tight I stripped the head right off and ended up having to dremel the damn thing out and go buy replacements. That was before I had the fire insight -- after which things went much better.
https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
I have this set of Gearwrench but the Craftsman set is built by them (I replaced a lost one with a Craftsman) and I love it.
Get one of these to start: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Drive-Premium-Breaker/dp/B001222378
And this or the big air compressor equivalent and high volume connectors if you're serious. Impact wrenches are less likely to break things as their hammer action is more uniform and breaks up rust. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PN5JAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474751492&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=electric+impact+wrench+1+2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41rm-gKmKBL&amp;ref=plSrch
I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but I have these and they're great for long bolts and stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM
I think this would do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-CS5B-Socket-Adapter-Kit/dp/B004GWZVTI
Newegg carries it as well, but currently out of stock:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118053
Give this a whirl
Go2 Socket Adjustable Bolt Remover Tool - Rounded or Damaged Nut Extractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155J8IS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a6ZxDb0XC7T6E
Socket set is on sale for like 48 on Amazon right now btw.
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-8921-8-Inch-Metric-Ratchet/dp/B0002U2ODO
Get an Ares Stud extractor. Things will grip nearly anything. The actual danger is that it grips so well it has the potential to break the damn bolt off.
https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Extractor-70016-Removes-Rounded/dp/B01GKEBG9I
Crescent makes a set: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM
I have it, and haven't had any issues with it, though I rarely use it.
If you can bend it into a angled shape I've used this on some successfully.
This guy works good for stuff like that too.
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
Dude...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464108450&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=Breaker+bar
Buy real tools man.
It looks like if you have an older CNPS cooler, you'll need this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-CS5B-Socket-Adapter-Kit/dp/B004GWZVTI
However, it's $20, and for that price you can just get a Hyper T4.
These are both on my Amazon wish list just for this purpose, maybe something like one of these would be useful?
Go2 Socket Adjustable Bolt Remover Tool - Rounded or Damaged Nut Extractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155J8IS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qvFFDbGFZJB0C
Topec Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set 13 Pieces, Nut Extractor Socket, Bolt Remover Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX8B6XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bxFFDbYC7KX9J
Is an 'impact' set like these necessary?
This little thing is a dream. And for the socket, if you need a lower profile one then I'd just cut one down to size.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12049-1-Inch-40-Inch-Breaker/dp/B003OA2J34
Hang about 125 KG or put a pipe on it about 3' long and hang 125 pounds on that.
it's a little slow but it will work.
if you used a bunch of 10 lb weights in a bucket, you'd get nice measurable results.
Could you fit the go2 socket in that space? Would likely do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Adjustable-Bolt-Remover-Tool/dp/B0155J8IS6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
If you want to go all out you can get the wadsworth set. We use these to get into tight spaces taking apart stamping dies. You can put a pipe on it. I think it can take like 400lbs of torque. They are awesome.
good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".
>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.
> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?
Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&amp;pf_rd_i=559968
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6
Thank you!
I do not want to detract from how awesome this is, nor do I think that this is as cool as the using another hook hack in this thread, but I use one of these for this job:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81230P-Teardrop-Ratchet-4-Piece/dp/B00BTEXPDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536247991&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gearwrench+120
Is this what you're looking for? The picture shows 84 tooth but the description seems to imply it'll be the 120 you'll buy.
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12049-1-Inch-40-Inch-Breaker/dp/B003OA2J34
Every Time
First thing I would try is getting one of these universal socket dealies and seeing if it will remove that broken socket piece.
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
Part 2; Amazon link
Crescent CX6PT20 X6 Pass-Through Ratchet and Sockets, 20-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L8GEPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mQi4DbSZ6XYDY
Are you sure that you aren't thinking of Pinheads and the Gator Grip? And even for Pinheads, apparently they have something on them now that prevents the Gator Grip for working.
Gator Grip; good for making rivets, but not much else.
tbh these are not much harder to get off than normal bolts to a rim thief who steals to order or has event the slightest bit of nouse, howd dya think tyre shops get em off when you lose your "key" http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8
This is what I was thinking about using to remove the bolt. https://www.amazon.com/Ares-70016-Damaged-Extractor-Removes/dp/B01GKEBG9I/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527571349&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=stud+extractor&amp;psc=1
Some ideas:
VIM Tools mini ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TSMQWU/r
Knipex pliers are great, they come in many sizes.
Medical Shears are great scissors.. there's many options and sizes.
Depending on the size of your kit, there's a number of options for bit-drivers that store screwdriver bits.
I agree /r/edc is the place to get the best recommendatons
I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.
I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.
If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism
In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.
Hope this helps!
Get you one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKEBG9I/ Made it stupid easy to take steel studs out of aluminum heads.
Additional Notes:
I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.
Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:
I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools
And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
New or used: Used
Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
Vehicles you've already considered:
I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
>Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.
Interesting, I wasn't aware of this one. Indeed could be really useful.
The only downside that I see is that you'll most likely have to remove the rear motor cable connectors, because you'll need to remove the rubber nut cap. When I was changing my rear brake disc last week, I managed to do that without removing the connectors.
Front motor cable connectors though have to be removed every time - otherwise it's just fucking impossible to pull it through those tight holes of the front suspension.
My breaker bar is probably the most useful tool I have. It's only $25: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02
Try a gator grip.
If that doesn't work, take it to a shop.
Better off with the 120xp, more teeth and an extra ratchet for less money
this is the best tool you'll ever buy
I wouldn't use it to mount the TV though
Don't rely on security skewers, stuff like pinheads can be defeated really quickly with one of these. Bike thieves know it and they carry them, and security skewers help identify there is something there worth stealing.
Its called the gator grip and it seems to be a really useful tool. It's about $16 on Amazon and gets great reviews
Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000065CJ8/?tag=rf-ca-10-20