Best switches according to redditors
We found 427 Reddit comments discussing the best switches. We ranked the 255 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 427 Reddit comments discussing the best switches. We ranked the 255 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
A few weeks ago I posted some pics of a "quick and dirty" induction heater I made:
https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/8igobf/gear_shot_yet_another_quick_and_dirty_dynavap/
The heater I built in the previous post worked great, but I wasn't happy that it heated continuously when it was powered on. I decided to add an "on demand" mode, similar to the way the Portside functions: I wanted the induction heater to be energized only when the vapcap was in need of being heated.
I decided to use the same method and hardware that the Portside uses for its triggering mechanism: a small momentary switch at the base of the coil, utilizing the same 12 mm x 12 mm Arduino 'tactile' input switch as the Portside. This switch is normally open but closes (and activates the circuit) when the vapcap is inserted in the induction heater opening and lightly pressed down. I mounted this to a 25 mm square Zip tie "sticky base" using a small dab of hot glue, and ran the wires under the base through a drilled hole. I am happy with how it came out.
I took one other feature from the Portside design and decided to use a MOS FET triggering module to handle the actual power switching, sparing my momentary switch from having to pass enough current to power the heater.
This is the finished desktop unit - pictures, diagrams and some other notes:
https://imgur.com/a/pzRe3SV
PARTS LIST:
12mm x 12mm Arduino Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My original 'big red switch' was a pull from an Epiphone Valve Junior guitar amplifier, left over from an earlier project. It looks nice, but it's nothing special - any latching (i.e., non-momentary) single pole/single throw (SPST) switch will do. This site has some switches that look pretty good and could work:
https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145?page=1
Momentary trigger switch base:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Mounting-Organizer-Management-Fastener/dp/B074279VJG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527451422&sr=8-16&keywords=zip+tie+sticky+mount
Like the Portside's trigger, I used a 12mm x 12mm Arduino tactile (momentary) switch. Mine is hot-glued to a Zip tie "sticky base", which has the foam removed and is screwed to my board. I kept the stock Arduino switch button and trimmed its edge to fit inside the tube. There is a small segment of 7/16" wooden dowel inside the tube to achieve the correct height.
Pyrex tube:
Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Cloupor Cloutank M3 Vaporizer authentic
https://www.fasttech.com/p/5236304
MOS FET trigger module:
15A 400W MOS FET Trigger Switch Drive Module PWM Regulator Control Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOS-FET-Trigger-Switch-Drive-Module-PWM-Regulator-Control-Panel-15A-400W-NEW/331961560311?hash=item4d4a736cf7:g:7IsAAOSwEzxYeEwQ or similar. Just search for the above part description, you'll find the right one. It's a popular Arduino circuit.
If you plan on using a momentary switch, this is the way to go. Don't make the momentary switch directly supply the heater current.
Heater:
Yosoo 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Module With Coil
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power jack:
If you can solder:
https://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Female-Barrel-Socket-Connector/dp/B01M3WBIA3/ref=sr_1_21?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-21&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female
If you can't:
https://www.amazon.com/Sumaote-2-1x5-5mm-Connector-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B0761NL8V6/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-18&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female . Although, seriously, this probably isn't a good project for you if you can't solder.
I know many of you have these for yourselves and don't need any help or parts lists, but this may help those who need a little more guidance.
Updated to add: the above links are intended to show the correct parts, but may not be the cheapest or fewest quantities available.
Cheers!
Parts List
Old telephone ringer box
RaspberryPi
Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys
Powered USB hub
Amazon USB speakers
PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)
IR receiver/sender
GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!
old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support
USB mic
Edit:
forgot the pics!
Edit2: Linked everything
$38.37 (considering you have a soldering iron) and don't mind doing some coding, I'd estimate it would take 20 minutes at most if your not putting much detail into it.
Library: https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/usb/keyboard/
Here's a Youtube video as well, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHIcliL4O14
It should be possible to play the whole game using the keyboard. Before you think it sounds foolish, it'd open up a lot, including the ability to playback macros. Think the clone tool on steroids. People could share sections of their prisons and you could import them by running the macro into your own prison. It'd also help people who have problems using the mouse for extended periods of time but have no problems typing.
Also, how cool would it be to have a button you could hit with your hand to lockdown the prison?
With that button you'd have to do some DIY work and put some USB guts inside, but it'd be significantly more durable than this mostly-ready-to-go option.
Edit: There might be a better way of going about it (I haven't much experience), but it seems using this as the guts should make it work (I was adapting from this guide and Peterjaap's comment on on the same page where he substituted the Teensy for the Trinket).
Battery, Voltmeter, Wire, Pusher, Motors, MotorCover, Micro Switch, Charging Stuff, Charging Stuff, You're idea is pretty good, no comments on improvement.
Edit: Formatting
I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.
To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.
Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4
The parts I used:
Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.
That's gorgeous. Great work.
My only thought is it's absolutely perfect if you add a safety power switch. A very small detail, but might make a big difference. https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY
This is my parts list.... Simple and it works
The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cmswrcpapaiAyhxDbV7EHBCN
The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiGzhxDbQWPT5QR
I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiMAhxDbTK5P2YY
The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cmswrcpapailChxDb0DGE3TM
The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cmswrcpapaifDhxDb7HTYE19
A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....
Ulincos Latching Pushbutton Switch U19C1 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Black Metal Shell with Blue LED Suitable for 19mm 3/4" Mounting Hole (Blue) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017KP67FY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yeeco Waterproof LED Digital Battery Meter DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V 84V 96V Acid Lead/Lithium Polymer/Lithium Iron Phosphate/NiMH Battery Capacity Indicator 6-120V Voltage Volt Meter Multi Tester https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MU6V9RD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
UTG Tactical Low Profile Rail Mount for Ruger 10/22 Rifle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002GNYCJ4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Valken Rifle Accessory Offset Ring Mount, 1" https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IU9DV8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Angled Wedge Hard Rubber Riser Pads with 1.5" Screws (Blue) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LDO3NZU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Bones Bearings Bones Reds Precision Skate Bearings https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FDRQ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gC.RBbKB0KG0H
Homyl Aluminum Alloy Skateboard Longboard Anti Sinking Gasket Prevent Sag Washer - Black, as described https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BKS964N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SC.RBbNY1EJVH
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132701686112
Only 10 bucks!
I'm actually currently in the process of making power switches for all of my Pis right now! This is what I created. It just plugs into pins 5 and 6. I use RecalBox and have to edit a piece of coding in the config file. I saw online that you are able to do it via RetroPi as well. I went to my local electronic supply store to buy the buttons, wire, and wire connectors.
Here are the supplies I got:
Buttons
Jumper Connector Housing
Female Jumper Wire connectors
Rolls of wire (I got a roll of red and a roll of black)
The way it works, I have to hold the button down for about 3 seconds for the Pi to power off. To turn it back on, I just have to press the button once.
Credit goes to /u/david4500
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/eOKIN
Parts:
Limit switches are very cheap, so you’ll pay more for shipping than the actual part itself. For example, the cheapest thing on amazon is a 10-piece set ($7)
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3
A lot of printers come with a spare, so if you have any friends with a printer, you might ask if they have any spares. Voltage/amperage doesn’t matter, it’s just a small 5V signal line so you won’t blow anything up.
The switch doesn’t even need to look the same as the original, it can be anything. It only matters that it “clicks” at the same spot each time, which all limit switches will do. This switch just tells the printer where the bottom of the print bed is.
The only thing that matters is that you have the same two mounting screw holes (which most of these limit switches have).
The limit switch isn’t axis-specific, meaning you could use the same switch for the X,Y, or Z axis.
When the button clicks, that’s the equivalent of touching the two wires together.
Edit: if you really want to save money, here’s a set for $4.80 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Arm-Subminiature-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/191202625167
Edit 2: if you live in the US, go to a local RadioShack. They’re roughly $1-2 there. https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spdt-switch-without-roller?variant=20332090693
Wow, thanks! Be sure to post any wands you make to r/wandsmith, we’d love to see them and are there to help!
Another thing I bought was a deadman switch so when you hit the floor, and check your pants lol, the lathe will automatically turn off. Also makes it easier to start and stop to see how things are going without having to mess with switches (depending on your lathe)
I’ve seen folks use these as well:
Cylewet 12Pcs 1A 250V AC 2 Pins SPST Momentary Mini Push Button Switch Normal Open (Pack of 12) CYT1078 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752RMB7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_57G5CbPJ1XF53
You might consider a Deadman Switch if you don’t already have one.
I got this switch for my saw. It's the same manufacturer that grizzly puts on their equipment.
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417293379&sr=8-3&keywords=woodstock+switch
I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch
​
I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.
If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.
Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch
And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack
Saw a similar issue with mine when I first set it up - switch worked but no lit led.
My issue of course was a wiring problem. For the led to be activated you need to make sure that the additional led connections are made too. This will depend upon the switch you used of course but if you are using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp then check the wiring diagram for program 1. My mistake was I missed that the NO (Normally Open) and the positive LED legs should be shorted to each other. Since mine had a wiring harness I just connected both wires to the positive connection of the zvs unit.
Hope your led issue is a simple fix like mine
BTW I like how you were able to fit it into that compact case, looks cool
Creality 3D Printer Part Limit Switch With Separate Package CNC for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D Printer CR-10 10S,S4 ,S5 (Pack of 3) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/
You're looking for a normally open momentary push button switch.
If the circuit is fairly low power you can buy small ones like these in bulk from Amazon for like 6 cents apiece.
Forgive me if these are obvious suggestions but you can also check out digikey, mouser, banggood and sparkfun.
Information Fire Hose
it's a common arcade button replacement micro switch.
if you dont have a bunch of arcade buttons sitting about and need to order a part to do the mod, get these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MFRMFS6 . it will make the pedal action not snap so much, and because you don't need so much force you can put it closer to the middle if you like.
the switch is attached to the side with 1" #4-40 screws and nuts... but if you plan to gig or tour it, buy nylon lock nuts for them or the shit will fall off constantly.
the jacks I used are also stereo, and the freeze trigger is on the tip and ring to avoid chassis grounding issues affecting the audio signal path. I just used a normal aux input cable to wire it.
happy soldering :P
(edits, I hate typing on mobile)
Ahah! I knew there was some type of button/switch like that but I didn't know what it was called or where to look. It looks like I could get some limit switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WRN7FQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501434511&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=limit+switch&psc=1
Thanks for the idea. It will be much easier to add a switch than a photo resister the way I already have things wires.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K67YO8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3G3SQGWUPUX9W is a switch I've seen used. As long as your batteries don't rhyme with schmustfires.
Well my Stryfe has a pair of MTB Rhino motors instead of the stock ones. They're 12v instead of the 6v stock motors, and run on a 3S LiPo battery instead of the four AAs in series it normally takes.
1.5v * 4 = 6v max vs the LiPo at 12.6v max
I made this to help it fit.
Keep in mind that you need to redo the wiring with something thicker to keep from burning it out. And replace the stock trigger switch with something heavier, I think I used one of these.
I put a little voltage meter on connected to the jam door as well, so I know when it's running low.
So basically I've completely replaced all of the electrical components but it sure hits a lot harder now. You can actually get some decent range from it.
If I wanted to mess with it further I'd probably replace the flywheels with something that could grip a bit better, but the problem I ran into messing with it last time was if they grip too hard they shred darts.
Didn't take days. Less than an hour, but at the same time I've done about 3-4 of these before so I was already familiar with the inside of a 360 controller.
Here's the tall tactile switches you need for the paddles: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394140371&sr=8-3&keywords=tactile+switches
That's 100 of them which is way too many, but only buying 3 or 4 is still only like $1 less...so I bought 100 and they've lasted me through various projects.
You also need (it looks like a lot more than it really is, but I'm being detailed)
LED strip (12V, 60 LEDs/m, 5050 LEDs) is darn cheap, fairly bright, and all over the internet. Here's 5m of white on Amazon. If that's not bright enough, you can get higher lumen LED arrays that run on 12V.
You could use some little toggle switches or maybe rocker switches.
Seems as if you have all the parts you would need for a basic build. I'm still a bit new to this myself, so hopefully someone else will correct me if I'm off the mark.
I used the following parts:
I think that's it. I also have a few additional parts for the lighted push button, but you wont need those if you use a regular one. I can always post that info if you need it.
Check the FAQ for tool recommendations for the basics you would need there.
The SX350 allows for gravity changes (by tilting left/right) to control the wattage and uses it for menu navigation so the buttons are only there if you want more direct control.
edit: If your SX350 does not have the buttons pre-wired there are pads for them on the chip you can wire your own. I believe there is a software update to enable them from Yihi. The one I got from Varitube was already set up for them.
Normal momentary buttons are fine. I used something like This but any tactile switch should work fine.
I have some of these on order as they look/feel a bit nicer then the basic plastic ones i have now.
You might want some magnets for the faceplate. I got some 1/8"x1/8" and 1/4"x1/8" rare earth magnets off amazon and epoxied them in. Check the FAQ for some recommendations on glues and such.
I would also recommend heat shrink tubing and some liquid electrical tape for the solder connections.
Hope that helps.
Foot pedal switch from Amazon, my dude.
URBESTAC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFRMFS6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just used a spring I had laying around, no idea what the spring constant was. I would recommend a pretty stiff spring.
I must be confused about how switches are rated. This was is listed as a 15A rating. Which should be adequate right? Or maybe you were meaning that for the given size of the switch it could have a higher amp rating?
What you listed is 5630 SMD LED's. Go to AliExpress or EBay and "5630 SMD Aluminum" will pull up equivalent options. I use Ali and saw one lot of 5 x 50cm going for $12, or about $5 a meter delivered.
Pick up one order of these limit switches-I use them for the very purpose you describe.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8TJOU8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y434wbWQEW96P
I suggest a dimmer of some sort. Decent ones are $4-6 and can be had in aluminum.
Hi /u/overlyapologeticguy! /u/bntyhntrqueen made me do this.
I just added this to my wishlist. Why, you might ask? Becuase I want to build an electrical light panel and what good would that be without an awesome EMO switch?
(I also added a master switch to the list but I figure I'm supposed to pick one thing to add to your list. So I went with that.)
Hey man. I'm happy to answer any questions you have. I took some more pics but not sure what you're after, so I'll just be detailed .
This Switch is the exact switch I bought
another switch pic
Crappy subs I've had for a decade, the 650w amp just as long, but it still pounds!
Because mobile phone... I posted and kind of explained these backwards I've realized. It's worth mentioning that you start wiring from the front and run it to the back. You need to drop wire from under the hood into behind the glove box. If you started from the trunk you won't be able to push the wire where I did.
You can see where I mounted the line out converter above the sub. And also that the stock Infinity 10 speaker system is still in tact and unaffected by this install. The 8 inch sub is still there.
Front of sub
Here you can see the wiring from front of the car coming into the trunk all hidden. Standard stuff here, around the back seat, under the rear panel, under the scuff panel (where it says Genesis at the door sil), up the panel behind the glove box and into the front of the car (see next picture).
Back of sub
I mounted the fuse holder to the fuse box panel (Genius!) and fed the 4g 12v wire through the grommet in the pic. I had to remove the hard plastic cover and cut a slit in the soft rubber water barrier inside, then drill a hole big enough in the hard plastic outer cover. Feed all of the wire through there and eventually to the trunk. I also drilled a hole near the side of the + batter terminal cover to make a notch for the thick 4g wire to fit.
wiring
Let me know if you wanted to know anything else.
I also posted a while ago about the backup camera installI did which is a nice addition for those who don't have it.
Edit: Added link to other post
Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.
https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Self-Reset/dp/B079GNNSRP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410iuxGxhhL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Automatic-Self-Reset-Waterproof-Dustproof/dp/B07C4T6XT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366780&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41UbL7CKvtL&ref=plSrch
You're going to be looking for something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mhv4CbV5G6G18
No problem. Most limit switches won't specify if they're normally open or closed, but if they have 3 contacts then 99% of the time you can configure them to be either. For example, these have both a normally open and a normally closed contact. However I wouldn't go for those ones specifically though because they're only 5A, I'd look for something closer to 10A.
Search for pretty much any kind of switch on Amazon or google. Lots of them will say "DC 12V 20A Automotive/Marine Switch," etc. The ones that don't say AC or DC almost always list a voltage that's common for one or the other (12v, 24v, 125v, 250v). Typical marketing nonsense. Just like how 16 "gauge" wire isn't the same as 16AWG, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-123-Electrical-OFF-Mom/dp/B0012ZE8IC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794115&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1MzJVN1hNVEI1NU0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNzI2NjQyRzRNWUdVNEczU1BJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODI0NzExTDE4MVJBRk0yQVNMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/warranty-Latching-Stainless-Mounting-Self-locking/dp/B07932GYNH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=dc+12v+switch&qid=1571794073&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOFI0SDNVR1FKTUhLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTc5MDk1M1NKOEhQUjJEMjhCOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ4Mjc3TFRSNVRBOVpGTllMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1SJOGUL3HGSAD&keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794160&s=industrial&sprefix=rocker+toggle+%2Cindustrial%2C197&sr=1-6
Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.
Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.
The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.
The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?
And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?
I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.
If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30
Why not just wire up one of these to the button instead?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008ZY9CXE
I'd hate to have a saw start spinning if I leaned over the table and hit the pedal accidentally, or at any point really.
I use a paddle switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS
https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY
With leads or sockets made for removable tools:
https://www.amazon.com/Router-Safety-Paddle-Switch-Removable/dp/B01B1KE4EK/http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch
http://www.woodpeck.com/elecswitch.html
https://www.amazon.com/ROUTER-TABLE-PADDLE-PEACHTREE-WOODWORKING/dp/B00153I3IC
I have old (like 50s/60's old) craftsman bandsaw and table saw that someone had rigged light switches on for power at some point, I replaced them with these paddle switches and I love them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HYY/
They are kind of bulky so you need a place to put a surface mount electrical box, but other than that they're a pretty simple install using basic crimp-on spade connectors.
Also since you'd put the switch in-line with the cord you could put a longer power cord on it while you're at it, if you're already dealing with a short cord.
When I get home tonight I can snap a couple pics of how I have them installed if it would help.
For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.
Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.
Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.
I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.
Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)
Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480
Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673
Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745
Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)
Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)
I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246
3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/
Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy
Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/
I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.
Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic
And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.
Well if you must know, Its a cremation box, usually sold for $20-30 on ebay. The Heating module and coil costed 13.00 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Button costed me 9.99 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJVTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the power supply costed me 11.11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR6FPN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With shipping and Best offer accepted, i think im doing justice here. These were the best prices i could find at the time from MULTIPLE vendors. I have a Portside Mini in the mailbox tomorrow and THIS box has NEVER failed me in the last few months since built. It is a work in progress yes. It can be expanded and definitely worked on to make it much better. I would of taken $50 which is what they USUALLY sell for but i started it at 75.00. Im sure it will cost me about 7-10 to ship when wrapped properly. Not loony at all.
Thanks for the approval, mod bot. These switches are bog standard, here's an amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There's a schematic diagram on this picture on the Amazon link: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41hJy3AQHwL.jpg
Leg sizes are in the title.
You need to bend the spring in to it or get some new end stops really cheep 3D Printer Parts and Accessories, FYSETC 3D Printer Limit Switch Mechanical Switch Module Endstops Switch with 3 Pins 39.4 inch Cable for Ramps RepRap Tevo Tornado- 3 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQZCBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YlwjDbSZQQYVW
Just need yourself a deadman switch and you're set! I have one of these for my proxxon, so much more productive to just hit a pedal and you're ready to rock.
MLCS 9080 Billy Pedal Foot Switch, Deadman Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L-AxDb30R8P11
Would these work?
If your kids are old enough to talk and handle the blasters, IMO they're mature enough to learn proper blaster/gun safety. Which is up to you, but I'd recommend things like not looking down the barrel, not pointing it at faces/anything you don't intend to shoot, and always assuming it's loaded.
If you don't trust them with the blasters, put them somewhere safe and have them ask you if they want to play with them. They'll probably end up jamming the blaster somehow and shredding darts, because I've seen college students do the same.
For the trigger switch, something like this would be a good switch, and you can watch the Make Test Battle Super Stryfe video for a guide on how to do the switch and some rewiring demos.
what about this? https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G
A cable tie is pretty reversible. A foot-operated dead man switch would help, safety-wise, something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/
I was watching a tutorial on modding a controller and for the back buttons the guy recommended using these
http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Switch-12mm/dp/B008DGB71Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404049555&sr=8-1&keywords=tactile+switch+cap
Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0ZLMYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm resurrecting this thread to warn anyone not to buy those switches I just took apart my friend's G903 because he had double clicking issues after two warranty replacements from Micro Center (he got the protection plan.) Those were the exact switches in the G903. I replaced them with Japanese D2F-F and so far so good. My old G900 had double click issue after two years and I installed Chinese D2FC-F7-N. We'll see how long those last. It's been 9 months since I did those mods.
4 Pack OMRON Ultra Subminiature Basic Micro Switches D2FC-F-K(50M) Pin Plunger PCB Terminals Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0ZLMYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KwE5AbN44RJVJ
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=pd_sim_328_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LJNJOE&pd_rd_r=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06&pd_rd_w=jg3Wa&pd_rd_wg=1byKr&psc=1&refRID=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06
this is the one I have, it's 15 amp
Here... right plunger height for like 75% of synths
https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Tact-Button-Switch-6x6x5mm/dp/B00W0YUV1W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540867464&sr=8-5&keywords=tact+switch
Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!
Here is what I have purchased so far.
12v 6a 72w power supply
ZVS Heater and Coil Combo
Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.
[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.
So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.
Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.
EDIT - MOSFET
Momentary Buttons
Mounting things for the momentary buttons
IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.
Is amazon an option for you? I have not used these but I found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQZCBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uVd4Cb8VNZKM6
I don't think Kite specifies a type of button. These will work though: https://www.amazon.com/9-5mm-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA
https://www.amazon.com/Subminiature-Switches-D2FC-F-K-Plunger-Terminals/dp/B01K0ZLMYM/
Haven't built van yet, but for both my current car and truck I have a little garmin like this that has no monthly fees or anything and all it does is GPS, using free google maps.
The benefit to me is that I absolutely do not want touch-screen controls in a car for AC and things like that, it's just another thing to go wrong, and I mount it right here (sorry too lazy to go take a pic to I drew it) where it's invisible to anyone looking at the car due to tinted side windows to the darkest legal limit. I do not have to connect/disconnect my phone, I don't need a little cradle taking up my windshield, and I can glance over at it just fine. I have one mounted in the "top" glove box of my tundra as well and that one is super hidden. I did it first so I even put a cheap microswitch on the door that turns on the device when it opens.
If they ever break, who cares? Buy a new one they are dirt cheap. No fiddling with phones, nothing sitting on the dash, and concealing it I think might help against people breaking in. Even though they are only like $50, there's bound to be someone out there who thinks they are more valuable or would break the glass for $50.
Hopefully I'm not too late posting this. I need to install turn signals on my bike. The previous owner removed everything, the lights, controls, relay.
My question pertains to the controls. I originally was going to pick up a factory turn signal switch, but I sort of like the naked look. So instead I plan on using a micro SPDT toggle. I really want to install it into the bar itself, and not some type of holder.
My bars are 1.25", and taper to 1" OD at the ends. This means the ID is somewhere around 7/8" to 15/16". The problem is the smallest switch I've found has a total depth of 1.4", and has to be installed from the inside of the bar.
This is the switch.
I can't seem to find or think of a clean way to install them. The hole for the switch only needs to be 0.25". I haven't drilled yet, because I don't want to ruin the bars. The only way I've thought of is to drill an elongated hole, bend the terminals, and squeeze the switch through. But I'm pretty sure the nut for the switch won't conceal the hole.
Has anyone done this before? Or have any suggestions on how to accomplish this? Once I can figure this out, I also plan on adding micro push buttons for the horn and starter.
Thanks in advance, and sorry about the lack of metric measurements. :P
They can be bought cheep, on amazon. You COULD look for just the switch (Looks like a KW11 style microswitch) if you wanted to but you would have to be comfortable with soldering/desoldering to install it.
Might be worth getting the 3 pack linked above as the lever you replaced probably wont last on the switch so it would be better to replace both now and have a spare.
Try homing the X axis. And before it finishes homing, press the limit switch (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3). It should stop immediately since pressing that switch tells the board that the X has hit the end. If it stops, then the carriage might not be hitting the switch. If it doesn't stop, then check your wires first and then try using the switch from the Y or Z axis instead to see if it's a board, cable, or switch issue.
I believe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3
If you can solder make a scuf tbh
I am an electronics refurbisher and I have had scuf like products come in before and a lot of the time they end up being a controller with some holes drilled in it with paddles and a board you can find online for like 15$ and do yourself
https://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Dualshock-Board-Remap-Install-4/dp/B00SVHWMEQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008420WOA/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JAERDCKTZASCC1X42QMP
I'm looking to modify the switches in my ThrustMaster T-1600M.
Previously I was using a Saitek Cyborg, which has a very mechanical feeling trigger and buttons that click. The TM I replaced it with has amazing movement and no slop, and no deadzone. Unfortunately it has a much more plastic feeling trigger with a large deadzone before it hits the contact, and the other buttons are just mushy.
I was thinking of using these for the trigger, and these for the buttons, but being a little new to electronics I am not sure if that is exactly what I am looking for.
Are there any recommendations that anyone has for joystick mods?
my idea would be to just drill some holes into the existing plastic-covers and install something like this or this
chances of getting a oem Kia switch/button will be hard, since the switches will be sold as spare parts, thus already labeled.
!!!
you could try this for the power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are same ones as the stock but the switch are a bit low and have to be pulled up. Once hooked up the buttons are great and feel like the arcade and not stiff.
momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/
induction heater $12.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/
project case: $12.98
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/
mosfet: $7.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/
power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/
test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/
on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/
​
in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply
electrical tape bro. or solder and tape. but hey, you can get all new endstops in sets of 3 for like 10 bucks
​
here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWQZCBY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=technivorous-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07DWQZCBY&linkId=191fc8eec04a468c80bc5ace44ff9427
These. They are a bit tall, but it's fine.
sounds like you're describing these. probably not quite right, but similar.
The switch I'm using is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DFYDNE?keywords=toggle%20switch&qid=1449860351&ref_=sr_1_15&sr=8-15
It has 3 positions (ON on each side, OFF in the middle I believe) and 3 places to connect
This is what cooked on me during my freak stall.
It should hold, but shit happens. I don't understand why people are so averse to observing proper practice when it's literally a matter of adding a couple of simple, cheap components.