Reddit Reddit reviews PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

We found 119 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others
Ground loop isolatorClose to perfect response of +/- 0.03 dB from 2-20,000 HzUtilizes proprietary audio transformers for a 1.3 dB gainFemale 3.5-mm inputMale 3.5-mm output
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119 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others:

u/Tarpit_Carnivore · 10 pointsr/Android

This is called ground loop interference. You can get a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI to remove the noise. Just be aware this may reduce frequencies, like bass, but it will remove the hiss.

u/sprrocket · 10 pointsr/Twitch

Pro tip for the "Static Computer Hum"--if you're using an analog mixer or mic plugged into your computer's line in and you hear an annoying buzz or hum on-stream, you probably have a ground loop (your mic and computer sharing the same ground wire). This is easily remedied by buying a "Ground Loop Isolator" off of Amazon for about $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNDuybZZ8NK68

u/jmattick · 8 pointsr/videos

You need to install a Ground Loop Isolator

That's what is causing the squeal you hear. That's one of many available.

u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/hardware

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

u/general_0408 · 7 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

You can buy a ground loop isolator to get rid of the buzzing caused by EMI.

u/digitaldavis · 6 pointsr/OP1users

I believe it has more to do with the impedance of the OP-1's output and the impedance of the other device's input. For an example - listen to the the OP-1 with cheap, low impedance headphones and you'll hear a ton of noise. Now listen to the OP-1 using a pair of quality high impedance headphones and you won't hear any noise.

There can me some hum/noise from the output when you have the USB connected, but there is a simple fix for that - a ground loop isolator.

This devices solves alot of the OP-1 noise problems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000LP4RMG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TREYHH1VB189BG8BXJX

u/Bene123 · 5 pointsr/nexus4

I had this issue as well. I purchased a ground loop isolator, and that fixed the problem right up.

I believe This is the one I bought.

You don't need to tear apart your car, just plug the 3.5mm male end into your auxiliary, and plug another male-male aux cable from your phone to the female end.

u/Mozgus · 5 pointsr/vitahacks

Just tried the plug-in. Works pretty well. Some minor black frame flickers once in a while on highest resolution with darkest dungeon. Will try other games and settings later. Also you can buy these cheap noise filter adaptors. I used this one in my last car to cure the AUX noise, and it did the trick to cure the audio here as well. Wow.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Edit: No black flicker once I limited the fps to 30 fps in the filter controls via PotPlayer. Smooth experience, since Darkest Dungeon runs 30 most of the time when overclocked. 60 fps in town menus but I can live without that.

I ordered some ferrite beads to attach to the cables to see if they work just as well.

Edit 2: ferrite beads have no effect on either cable. The ground loop isolator box is what people need.

u/rjungemann · 5 pointsr/LGG3

My G3 works through my car with a ground-loop isolator cable.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

An added plus is that it reduces noise for any phone that is playing through the car stereo while charging.

u/serosis · 5 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Check to see if the Line In and Mic inputs are muted. If not, mute them.

If that doesn't work try a ground loop isolator.

u/spartan2100 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I had a similar issue, but mine was a constant buzzing noise. I ended up getting a ground loop isolator from the manufacturer of my car adapter (Kensington), but I believe you can pick them up from electronic stores (i.e. Radio Shack in the US) as well.

u/robertsyrett · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

For what it's worth, I haven't had such an issue with my 0-Coast, you might try out different power sources to see if you have a defective unit. If it's just ground hum you might consider getting a filter as they are not expensive.

u/44ml · 4 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

This is the correct answer. I got this one from Amazon for $12. Sounds much better now.

u/Scalla1384 · 3 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Both g6 and astro need to be hooked up via usb. Then run your headset to the g6. Then an aux cord from the g6 line out (might be line in, I forget) to a ground loop like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAQTRI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Then connect the male end of that ground loop into the astro tr headset jack (where your headphones used to plug in) and that's it. Should have no issues controlling audio mix while having the benefits of the G6 for in game sound, music and movies.

u/TacticalBacon00 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

A ground loop isolator should solve your problem. I stream video games on twitch and I have 3 of these in my setup. It clears up electrical interference from un-grounded electrical equipment, which is why your speakers don't have the sound and your headphones do.

u/joshq68 · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

I bought this guy off of amazon Ground Loop Noise Isolator I use it for my sirius player and phone aux cord, and it silences the hiss for me.

u/Cockur · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

u/spaceminions · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Yes, but you can buy a "ground loop isolator" for $10 that is made to eliminate that sort of problem.

u/Trevmizer · 3 pointsr/nexus6
u/stonehands_on_reddit · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

u/PaulMezz · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

I had a similar issue and got one of these. Worked perfect. Not as much macgyver of course...

u/nolimitsoldier · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

That is a ground loop and normal.

Buy

u/shortyjacobs · 3 pointsr/nexus6

That's a ground loop issue. I'm assuming you are sending audio to your radio with an AUX jack.

The charger will be referencing one ground, which will become the "ground" for the audio signal. The radio ground will be at a slightly different potential, though, because the radio ground could be from a slightly different part of the car than the cig lighter ground.

Because of the mismatch, the radio "reference" of ground is thrown off, and you get a whine.

If you really care about it, this sucker, or similar, works wonders. I use one of these between my HTPC and stereo for the same reason at home.

It takes up space in the car, but usually you can tuck it out of the way. It's the size of...uh....like half an altoids tin, so not huge. I actually went into my panel and installed it between the aux jack and stereo in my car for a "cleaner" look.

u/mazdapi · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I have a 2008 Mazda3 too. I'm an engineer with audio experience, so hopefully you find this helpful.

If you're using the stock sound system, this device will work fine; it's a ground loop isolator. With the stock sound system, the frequency cutoff is hardly noticeable - even if you are using the AUX IN with a high grade, insulated cable and lossless audio.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422050578&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator+3.5mm

If you're going to upgrade the audio system, chances are that the installer will properly ground the audio components, mitigating the issue.

I used the GLI on my stock sound system for 7 years. When I upgraded the tweeters, speakers, and head-unit, I no longer experienced the electrical noise.

u/crackhyeyeon · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

It was the only thing that stopped random feedback noises on my older car.

u/DarkMain · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Are the speakers powered? (have their own power that plugs into the wall)

Without actually hearing the sound I'm just guessing but you might be suffering from a ground loop.

A simple ground loop isolator may fix the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

(this is just an example, not a recommendation as it's the first that popped up in search).

u/bobzor · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I just bought this one and I really love it. But you likely will need to purchase a ground loop noise isolater to prevent that high-pitched wheeze you get when you plug something into your car.

u/mouf32 · 2 pointsr/lgg6

I picked up the ground loop isolator mentioned on the G5 post and it fixed all of my issues. Supposedly it's a software issue that can be fixed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mrandish · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It was probably a ground loop being introduced from that power brick.

This can usually be resolved by changing the grounding of your power configuration. Sometimes swapping power strips, using two different wall outlets which are on different circuits or changing out audio cables (you may have a cable with a disconnected ground shield). To be clear, your problem is not "from" the power cable. The problem is a ground connection that is traveling through power lines and audio lines.

One time I had a problem with hooking up two different computers to the same amplified monitor speakers in a complex system, couldn't solve it and had to resort to getting this $10 ground loop isolator which fixed the problem completely.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI

u/wickedzeus · 2 pointsr/mazda3

if you're going to do this, don't forget to pick up a ground loop noise isolator it will get rid of the whirring/static noise you'll inevitably get as you drive. That's the one I used, so I can vouch for it, but there are many other ones out there. I had it paired with this on my 07 (placed it on the front of the center console a few inches under the lip) and it worked well until I switched cars

u/mage2k · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

u/gunder_bc · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

At work I have a headset mic plugged in to both my phone and PC, and plug the phone into the PC to charge. That created a ground loop and I had to buy a group-loop isolator to remove the hiss that caused.

u/purebishop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like a ground loop problem to me. Depending on how recently you've purchased the laptop, get it replaced/repaired under warranty. Otherwise, you could use a ground loop isolator to fix this.

u/camcabbit · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like (no pun intended) a ground loop issue. You'll need something called a "Ground Loop Isolator".

Also, check that all the devices connected to your computer that are powered from the wall are grounded. It's possible that the monitor might have a bad (or no!) grounding pin.

In order to possibly solve this, I would recommend using something like this between your monitor's audio out and your computer's line in jack.

I know this because my sister's computer had the exact same problem.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

:( not when docked.

Youre best option would be to use a Aux cable from the headphone jack to a pair of speakers. though you would probably need 3.5mm isolator to prevent electrical interference from ruining the sound.

u/gargolito · 2 pointsr/prius

This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_S4eNwbEM1KEQH

And to avoid ground noise:

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y6eNwb2BSE5ZD


Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.

u/cyclonesworld · 2 pointsr/electrical

For sure sounds like a ground loop issue then if it's happening when they're running tools. I'm not sure how to handle this for residential, I've only dealt with it in car audio.

I did have a similar issue when I used to DJ. I had a USB controller, and when I had it hooked up to my PC via USB, then connected through RCA to my receiver, I'd get a high pitched whine from it. It's because it was grounding through my PC, and my AMP, which were both grounded to each other. Some kind of weird deal, I never did figure out a good solution.

For car audio though, they make a ground loop isolator that filters out the high pitched whines. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the PC though, since it's a passive device that doesn't require external power.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1521724416&sr=8-17&keywords=ground+loop+isolator This is the one I have. Might be worth a shot.

u/jamminwithtrees · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yup sounds like the other headset prob didn't use a common ground for the mic and headphones. It's def a ground loop though, I knew as soon as you described the noise :) Ground loop isolaters sometimes work, but it depends on the difference in potential - you can end up with some other issues if it's bad enough. You can def give one of these a try though - put it inline on your headphone connection to the dac/amp - https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Otherwise not much you can do short of rewiring the headset.

u/KD7DMP · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I helped set up a studio about 5 years back for a local community radio station and interfacing the phone line to their system was a pain.
They had a unit called a Phone hybrid, which is a unit that has an audio in(so the caller can hear you) and an Audio out(so you can hear the caller) and a connection for a landline phone. So you hook that up to your board and away you go, at least that is how it's done in radio. Here is a link to hybrids: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Telephone-Audio-Interfaces/ci/8815/N/4291085905

For your cell phone you could get a mic/headphone splitter to do the same job as the Hybrid.
(Like this one:https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headsets-Separate-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00Y458NA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492535486&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=headphone+with+mic+splitter&psc=1)

The only issue is there is voltage on the mic side(to power the mic in a headset) that you need to isolate or it will damage your board.(You can use something like this to do that job. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI)

So you would need to hook the Mic side, via your isolator, To your aux output on your board so the caller can hear the final mix audio. Then hook the headphone port to an aux/line input(the One that uses RCA or 1/4" jacks,) so that the caller can be recorded.
One other bit that I learned while setting up the radio station is you need a way to mute the caller's audio on the aux output so the caller doesn't hear them self.(It comes out as a very trippy delayed audio to the caller) Many boards have way to select what line go to your aux output, so you will just need to RTFM on that.

Anyway, I hope that input was helpful and gets you a better setup for callers.

u/ixShadow · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

u/DJPhil · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

u/gahd95 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Should i add it between the mic and the PC or the audio jack and the PC?

u/FrighteningEdge · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjtZBb6M2T7WA


Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

u/kindbutterfly · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

you guessed right, it is electrical interference. you probably already have it caused by your car's electronics and the usb cable is just a next source.

i have this one and it works great. i actually have it plugged into a bluetooth dealy since my car doesn't have bluetooth.

reviews exaggerate sound quality issues like quieter or low bass. i mean, turn it up or turn up your bass.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/siscorskiy · 2 pointsr/LGG3

get one of these

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Standard PC speakers often don't include white noise cancellation. A cheap way to kill the interference is to add a ground loop isolator.

u/Claclink · 2 pointsr/Android

no, but i know how audio systems work. ive built tube amplifiers, installed multiple stereo systems in cars before, and i'm an engineer that deals with signal processing. for what you are saying to be true, it would imply your amp in your car has more distortion than the tiny inexpensive amp in your phone. which i guess is possible if you have the shittiest amp/deck ever made. read the first sentence of the link below.

http://www.mediacollege.com/audio/howto/distortion.html

the hissing noise is a separate problem. usually due to a grounding issue. this will probably fix it.
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI#productDetails

u/Teknik987 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

u/SorryNotKarlMarx · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

This is the one I have. Supposedly they can reduce audio quality, some brands worse than others, but I haven't noticed any problems with that.

u/bellsy · 2 pointsr/prius

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pzFybQ1Z9Q0D

I'm sure others like it would work.

u/Bobmaloogalooga · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

If you use Amazon Prime this is under $10 and works well: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/shadybill · 1 pointr/MINI

It's most likely a ground loop. One of these or similar should fix the issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/needs_help_badly · 1 pointr/ipod

It's from the grounding. Something like this in line from your iPod to headphones should get rid of that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAQTRI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374909215&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190

u/Rasalom · 1 pointr/techsupport

You said it in your original post: "you may lose a little freq range." Yes, I did notice this. The ground loop isolator "solves" signal distortions by simply cutting off the highs and lows of a signal. It muffles the sound so you won't hear the chittering electric signal, but you won't hear a true signal, either. Bad solution!

And dear god, don't go to Best Buy. Go buy one off Amazon so you can return it after puking at how tinny it makes music sound. Here are some more honest reviews of these products.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/Zeos

Someone told me they purchased this and it fixed their noise issue. As long as you are going 3.5mm it will work fine.

u/DirkDiglier · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

Isolate the problem like Torturedpath suggest or circumvent. Here's a cheap-o DI box that will isolate your signal paths if the problem is in fact electrical and not mechanical.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_422_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0F086BGZXY7F7YR5ZSG9
e* - that particular model has RCA outputs, but you get the idea.

u/deniroit · 1 pointr/audiophile

nope, that didnt help either :(. What do you think about an externally connected USB sound card ?. Would that canel the interference from the AC adapter?
Or how about a RCA filter ? like this one

u/-RicFlair · 1 pointr/audiophile

It means you likely have multiple grounds in your system so you need to buy an isolator or two depending on your setup to remove all but one ground

I plug this into my computer to help my hum
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/djellicon · 1 pointr/OPZuser

To deal with the noise I use a ground loop isolator on both OP devices when recording to DAW, removes most of the noise, I bought this one (out of stock now) but I'm sure others will work just as well;

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LtRoyalShrimp · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

For anyone in the US - I have about 3 of these and work really well!

Amazon US - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Anarchaotic · 1 pointr/apple

Heads up I have this thing. You'll need a grounding cable like this - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Otherwise you're just going to hear a really annoying hissing noise. Also your sound quality is going to be a lot less dynamic than an aux cable. It's perfect for calls (volume needs to be turned up) but I never use it for listening to music.

u/manderso7 · 1 pointr/prius

I got a Ground Loop Noise Isolator from Amazon and it does the trick.

u/t3abagger · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Sure thing! It's a "ground loop noise isolator" and the price has dropped!

u/SherlockCmbs · 1 pointr/buildapc

There is an isolator cable you can buy on amazon. I just upgraded to a yeti though.







PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZlvaBbGZ2DAAN

u/physicalgoose · 1 pointr/synthesizers

Aww damn, I've also heard people have had a lot of success with these using the OP-1

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

They're small and don't require additional power but still kind of annoying to have to have an extra piece of equipment in the chain.

u/harmburger · 1 pointr/Miata

There's a product called a ground loop isolator, I use it in my Miata(NC) that has a custom-made aux-in with the stock headunit. I didn't install it without using the ground loop isolator, but I head conflicting reports of some people getting it, some not. I purchased one and installed it at the same time. It's hidden in the dash, so it's still only a 3.5mm cable coming out of the glovebox. Works great, no interference issues. Here's the one I use: http://smile.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/dodoburd · 1 pointr/Android

Yeah it should.

One problem I have in my car is that if the phone is charging and playing music through the headphones at the same time, there is a little humming noise that increases with revs of the engine. If you get this issue, you'll need a Ground Loop Isolator.

u/Parax0 · 1 pointr/letsplay

That's what I'm asking here for :P I just bought this thing and it didn't help, so I'm a little hesitant to immediately spend money on another thing that might not work. That's why I want to hear what other peoples' experiences have been with 3DS recording.

edit: I'm gonna add some extra info to the OP.

u/Erosis · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

You might want to try this isolator or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2). You definitely have some sort of interference, but without looking at every single connection, it is really hard to tell. My motherboard was the culprit and my Asus Xonar external couldn't even deal with it. I ended up getting a completely separate DAC and amp and using optical. However, this isolator will most likely do the job if you don't plan on spending lots on hi-fi equipment in the future.

u/rextos · 1 pointr/audiophile

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449259813&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+filter

u/mrbubbles916 · 1 pointr/flying
u/_kemot · 1 pointr/techsupport

amazon? ebay?

link link

I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.

u/tehkhop · 1 pointr/headphones

Just bought one. Short answer: it works. Long answer: It works really well. I have my mic jack plugged directly into my computer and my headphone jack plugged into my DAC. No buzz. In-fact I'd say the audio is a tiny bit cleaner in general. Buy it: www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/Mixtapz · 1 pointr/Twitch

Same issue. Just bought 2 of these off Amazon.
http://www.amazon.ca/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

One for my stream port one for my AUX port. Audio is crystal clear.

u/C0mpass · 1 pointr/techsupport

More than likely you are having a ground loop problem. This happens a lot in car stereos also. A simple isolator would solve the problem. Due to your headphones not having a dedicated power supply there is no ground loop, while your speakers do have a dedicated power source, thus forming a ground loop.

I personally have this isolator in my car and it works great by removing all of the "static and hissing" noise.


http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/jakgal04 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You can actually pick up a ground loop isolator and just tuck it away under the dash or something. I have one on my car and it works great. Heres one from Amazon for $9 with Prime.

u/maz-o · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Sounds like a grounding problem. It picks up noise from the car electronics.

Usually it happens when you plug in a charger to your phone/ipod at the same time as the AUX. Did you do that?

Try this cheap fix, "Ground Loop Isolator".

Goes between your aux input and your phone/ipod/etc.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/Lurkingnerd · 1 pointr/headphones

as /u/pocketspoon has mentioned this subreddit is more headphone equipment.

However what you may want to look into a filter for your modmic. You could pick up something like an audio interface or a mixer to help assist with controlling gain and reducing electronic feed back but that can be fairly expensive.

I would a try a ground filter like this first.

u/backlumchaam · 1 pointr/headphones

To fix a ground loop, you can do it the hard way by actually fixing the ground (at the cigarette lighter socket most likely, but car audio guys might have better insight) or the easy way with a ground loop isolator.

Unfortunately, your issue sounds more severe. The ground loops in cars I've heard tend to be a high, mechanical sounding noise floor/hiss with maybe a high pitched whine. Not a whole channel cutting out.

In a car, I'd suspect corrosion on the aux cable connectors (anywhere between the radio and the device). I'd spray some Dexoit around, maybe change out the cable.

But I'm not a car audio guy, so you might find someone that knows the specific issues in that realm better.

u/APhamX · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well, that fixed it.. Although I don't want to run this giant extension cable, so maybe get something like this http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI ?

u/TheStealth · 1 pointr/BMW

So I have been running into something similar with my E46. I found that when my iPhone isn't plugged in to power, it works fine. But when I have my phone plugged in it will work, then it will fail switching back to radio after sometime and act as if the AUX doesn't exist when trying to select the mode (just goes between Radio and CD).

I found this online, again, not your car but could be of assistance BMW CCA, basically what I believe I am experiencing is a Ground Loop fault. I will be ordering this part Ground Loop Noise Isolator once I finish testing with the phone plugged in and then unplugged replicating the issue to be sure. But after searching many different forums, finding the same symptoms pointing to this same issue, I am really thinking this is the issue I am having, I will test again with the device before installing it... I just don't know how I am going to hide that bulky thing in the dash.

I hope that helps! Post back with any findings!

u/unamusedpenguin · 1 pointr/applehelp

Shit I forgot to give an update. Update: I ordered this one off of amazon and it works perfectly, I had my concerns because it was only 10 bucks, but it works. Crystal clear music. Now let's just see how far it's going to last.

u/shoWt1mE · 1 pointr/headphones

I might've already found one which I would've tried if it came to it.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Basically repeating this.

But please let me know if it works for you! :)

u/havetolovemusic · 1 pointr/Android

I've read some comments that there is often a 'humming' noise, and many people recommend getting a ground loop isolator. This may not be with this specific device either. Can you comment on this? Thanks!

u/gtbsbr · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ground loop.With so many variables its hard to pin down.Make sure all components have a common ground.Try a seperate circuit.Do you have a cable box plugged into same outlet as the laptop If you unplug cable from cablebox,if the noise disapears it is the cable box causing problem.One of these would eliminate the noise,but wont fix the underlying problem.

http://www.amazon.ca/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

http://www.radioshack.com/ground-loop-isolator/2700054.html#.VJa-uTm7g

u/pnknp · 1 pointr/headphones

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

or

https://www.amazon.ca/HIRALIY-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B01GJHEA9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491973393&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+noise+isolator

Would I plug this in before the Y-Adapter then the Y-adapter into the ports? Or would I plug this into one of the ends from the Y-Adapter?

Do you know why it's happening with my microphone? Is this a common issue with them?

Ty

u/advocat3 · 1 pointr/Miata
u/kryptoniterazor · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Sounds like a ground loop. Very common when you have 2 devices taking output from the same place and sending input to the same place. What happens is a literal loop is formed by the continuous circuit and acts as an antenna to pick up EM static. You may find that you can fix it by only using one input at a time or switching one of your devices to a different power supply (e.g. if you're using USB power on the Xenyx, try using a DC plug instead). Failing that, you can use a ground loop isolator to tamp down the noise.

u/GPasswatch · 1 pointr/DadsGaming

Sorry, it's a ground loop isolator. It's actually a piece of hardware to minimize buzz, etc. It's actually primarily for radios, ipods, etc. You put it in the line for your headset, audio recording/capture device to minimize/remove unwanted buzz, etc.

Here's the one I got:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/glenbot · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

I don’t have the external setup you do but I just use a splitter on the sound card headphone output. Because I use a sound blaster AE-5 the output goes through an internal DAC and pushes enough volume that you lose nothing on the split.

This is the splitter I use: KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Wi5CbP0TN8C7

And because in my specific system the split has some buzzing I use a ground loop buster to clean up the noise: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ekb4MwuVEblMD

u/sudo999 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Yeah, my transmitter will tune between stations, trouble is the radio won't. I live in a dense suburban area and the bands are crowded.

a tip to get rid of the whine or at least reduce it is to buy a ground loop isolator. they're about $10 (linked one is about $11, I linked it because it's the one I own, you might be able to find cheaper).

u/GloriousPudding · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

u/thayerpdx · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Sometimes you can clean that up with a magnet around the aux plug, but your best bet is a ground loop isolator.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

u/GaussCaptain · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

Before I found the UHQ Upscaler (which solved the problem for me) I ordered this [ground loop isolator] (http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI) from amazon for about $10. It fixed all that background noise as well.

u/AchillePomeroy · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.

u/PabloEdvardo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Use it inbetween the ipod and the adapter.

Here's another one that might make more sense.

u/PieRhett · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm getting a lot of static coming from my speakers. Too much to enjoy any music.

It's only happening when my preamp (Music Hall Mini) is plugged in (and turned on).

I'm using a U-Turn Orbit Plus as my record player.

Does anyone have any suggestion for how to eliminate the static?

I tried plugging in an Aux>RCA cable in to a ground loop isolator that I have, but the only thing it did was reduce the gain/maximum volume level. It did not help reduce the static.

The basic setup I'm working with is Turntable>RCA/RCA>Preamp>RCA/RCA>Speakers

I have no idea what I'm doing so any suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks!!

u/talones · 1 pointr/iphone

Are you using a noise isolator in your car? My iPhone 6s sounds perfect over Bluetooth since I added this...

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_krj0xb2K6FY6Q

u/ChrisRK · 1 pointr/CarAV

A friend of mine talked to me about noise filters today. I honestly don't know if it works for a microphone but if you are willing to sacrifice a few dollars for a hopefully working fix then this little thing might help removing the noise from the microphone.

A shop that installs audio professionally will probably know more about electrical noise than a regular auto shop or mechanic by the way so if the shop who installed your radio doesn't know see if you can find a car audio shop in your area and ask them.

u/castillar · 1 pointr/Volvo

The static noise might be due to poor isolation between the power and audio lines in the Bluetooth unit--I had the same issue with mine. The solution was to buy a grounding unit like this one that sits inline on the audio cable. Worked like a champ, and the cable on it is long enough that I can put the whole thing out of sight.

u/Zaii · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

If you get noise while using the 3.5mm cable in your car while charging your phone i would invest in a ground loop isolator

this fixed my problem

http://smile.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI?sa-no-redirect=1

u/aneren · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

I had the same problem with static in the car. I bought this ground loop noise isolator for $9 on Amazon and it fixed the problem for me. It might be worth a shot.

u/xitech · 1 pointr/razer

Something like this might help. Some other fixes are cleaning your contacts, using shorter wires, keeping audio wires away from other wires, getting away from RF sources, etc.

Feedback is a pain to troubleshoot. The product I posted may or may not work. Good luck.

EDIT: note that the one I linked has reversed plug genders for what you'd want on your pc, but there are others around for around the same price so you don't have to stack a bunch of adapters on it.

u/TSGS · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Get one of these:
Ground Loop Isolator

Ugly, but it works. I use it all the time in my '06 Sienna.

u/style26062 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I had issues with a hum on the audio out of my Kenwood TS-940 into my PC. Turned out to be a ground loop issue. I bought an audio isolation transformer and that fixed it.

Something Similar to this.

u/nicelander · 1 pointr/microbrute

It might be ground loop feedback. You can get a special cable to remedy that. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

Not sure if this is the problem but it might be.

u/ProtonTrev · 1 pointr/battlefield_4

> if you are on a laptop there isnt much you can do unless you want to spend a lot of money on an external DAC

A ground loop isolator should do the trick:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

But it sounds like the OP's computer isn't grounded. Resolving that would eliminate the buzz sound.

u/djkrugger · 1 pointr/CarAV

The problem is a ground loop, you need an isolator but in the audio line not in the charger, something like this.

u/franco90 · 1 pointr/htcone

This or this may be worth a try.

u/pkillian · 0 pointsr/MINI

Either your amp connections or you need a ground loop noise isolator if these issues are only occurring when you're playing music through the aux input.