Best overhead car video players according to redditors

We found 165 Reddit comments discussing the best overhead car video players. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Overhead Car Video Players:

u/MicroByte · 82 pointsr/gaming
u/OmniaII · 39 pointsr/JusticePorn

Get a pair of Dashcams...

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When does the chip fill up? Never.

It just starts over after about ~30 hours in 1900x1080 x 30FPS

Longer if x 15FPS

Even longer if 1280x720 x 30FPS et.al.

And if I turned off the "Parking mode" motion sensor probably a few days.

I've had it last at least a week, before overwriting the older footage with some settings.

It uses the 12V accessory (cigar lighter plug) so if you want to have it 24/7 you'll need to hard wire to a fuse (I used the door fuse) or you could also use the below device that checks the voltage and when it drops to a set level, it shuts off or can set it to shut off after a period of time.

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From a previous thread here is my setup;

Front is Finevu CR-500HD

Rear is BlackVue Wi-Fi DR500GW-HD

To keep it 24/7 live/motion sensor I use this.

But the BlackVue UPS is the same, so either/or.

As far as one over the other?

The nice things about the BlackVue are both a built-in GPS and WiFi.

I have this just under my rear brake light (top of back window version) and I can use my phone iphone/android/tablet to view what is shown/stored on the camera. WiFi is not that strong and sometimes you have to sit next to the garage to be able to view away from the car. (Originally had it above the rear-view mirror, but moved it to the back for a better view, still have the mount up there and I might install a 3rd cam so can see the interior again)

And the GPS is built in so when I take out the 32GB chip it sync's up with a map to show where I was driving and how fast (moving map style)


Drawback? It is wide? i.e. the FineVu is a bullet type of cam and basically you see a lens, the BlackVue is a tube that covers the same width as the brake light so it shows more.

I like the FineVue as far as stealth but the BlackVue for the features.

The FineVu has a connection to add a monitor to view onboard images. And you have to buy an external GPS for the FineVu @ ~$40

Basically it is better to remove the 32GB MicroSD chip and view it on your computer.

Neither (at the time of purchase) can handle the 64GB MicroSD chips

They both loop the storage, i.e. after x amount of space, it writes over the older saves.

And depending on how you set up the sensitivity is how much it captures. e.g. if you have it on super sensitive, you'll get many 'Events' that never erase (like potholes/speed bumps) instead of regular capture/parking mode that gets overwritten on a space basis.

Both images are just as good.

Oh, and not a good representation of quality as I had to squeeze from a 32MB AVI to a 2MB GIF file and drop some frames, but here is a sample of it capturing a car crash on the left.

u/Unclegonzo · 26 pointsr/houston

I use a Vacron CDR-E07. It has a camera facing forward, and another camera and microphone on the inside of the car that can record the driver and anyone standing at your window, like a police officer. Also records GPS data like speed and plots it on google map. Good to have when a cop writes you a ticket for speeding when you know you weren't speeding, or claims you made a comment you didn't make. This will give you the proof you need, since without it any judge will always side with the cops if there is a disagreement in your stories.

u/orxon · 15 pointsr/homelab

Note, links here with a [!] are ones not in the album.

  • Starting off HERE we have a view of the entire area. On the left is my rack topped with HP 1020, semi-dead retired PS3, and Netgear R6300v2, a few parts and tools. An HDMI switcher sticks out the back waiting cable management and routing to a shelf up front, also exposing IR receiver for it for manual control although it auto switches to the latest turned on device.

    Off to the right is a desk which has been converted to a ghetto entertainment center. I'd rather buy servers than furniture! My apartment is absolutely tiny anyway, like 600 SQFT. Logitech 2.1, Dell S2740L. I'd not pay that much for a dashboard monitor, but, I use it for media as well, so the price of it new when I got it, nearly 450 after taxes/shipping, was worth it.

  • Over HERE a second R710 sits unused while I get another iDRAC chipset for it, and maybe another motherboard for it. Maybe. It works with it's damaged RAM channel but limits it's expansion. We'll see.

  • HERE is my GLORIOUS GRAFANA SETUP! This is displayed on the Pi, refreshes every 30 seconds, data is dumped every minute to InfluxDB, some graphs use ELK Stack, and the Pi in addition to showing this uses a cronjob to dump temp/humidity data. A more detailed screenshot is HERE From left to right, top to bottom, you see,
  • Power Usage, stats pulled from OpenHAB (more below)
  • graphs of Humidity from an AM2302 sensor. I'll release Python sources when I'm comfy with them, r/Homelab will be the first to see 'em, no worries.
  • A bunch of single-stat charts showing "right now" data: Rack intake temp, Rack exhaust temp, C-temp INSIDE the rack, Power Draw, and firewall incoming packets rejected over the last 5 minutes. More on this later.
  • Stack-graph of intake and exhaust temp over time. Shows me how much "heat" is being shoved out the back better, visually. And I can see when I'm doing crazy stuff on CPU loads ;) - the sensors used here are THESE DS18B20's from Amazon. So easy to get working because it's 1Wire.
  • Then I graph "ambient"-ish sensor data from my IPMITool dumps. A cronjob runs THIS[!] command every minute, and dumps the sensor data. The data in this graph is backplane, motherboard, ambient temps, etc. Nothing "Hot."
  • Then, I graph the "hot" data - IO Controller hub, RAM, CPU cores, etc. Unfortunately the R710 and R210 don't have any hot data? Just ambient, and that's it. Boo!
  • Next up, fan speeds. I consider this important and bolded the lines of fans that I've swapped so I can make sure they don't fail.
  • "Ports" blocked is wrong, it's packets. This graph is polling Elasticsearch which gets pfSense firewall logs. It then graphs ICMP (Ping) requests it's rejected, and all other Layer4 packets on a separate line.
  • Then, another Elasticsearch graph showing packets that have passed through - I only have three ports exposed - two RDP and one PPTP for when I lab at work. I want to see when my RDP sessions are being messed with, so I graph both of them. A management VM runs on the standard port, and a "production" (file/print/dhcp/dns/iSCSI) RDP session for "emergencies" runs on a nonstandard port.

    The last two graphs honestly tell me a LOT. ELK Stack is WAY more powerful than I thought. Unfortunately I don't like how Kibana's dashboards look, so save the geoIP stuff, I am using Grafana all the way. TODO: Get the Pie chart plugin working!

  • THIS is my OpenHAB setup. Pardon the bulges on the side, screencaps from an S7 Edge, stitched together. Top down:
  • Scenes (off/sleep/wake/work[all on])
  • a 2800 Lumen living area light
  • an RGB (though locked to single color due to limited OpenHAB2 support for this particular model) bulb behind the monitor seen HERE[!]
  • An Ikea dome lamp I ripped the mains socket out of and replaced with LED strips, powered by an ESP8266 and custom driver circuit. Communicates via MQTT with a server, Mosquitto, on a VM. Sits above my bed. Reowr.
  • AUX Power is for my hydroponics setup. I'm a basil/pesto nerd.
  • Server rack power "right now." updates every 15 seconds.
  • AUX Control controls the water pump for hydroponics. It's on a 1hr OpenHAB "cron" rule to water itself.
  • Server Control, expanded upon HERE
  • Network devices lists me and my SO's laptop and phones, and an NZXT H440 tower I built that we share. Seen here in an old photo playing Jak X at native speed, woo!

  • HERE is a view of the rack, with THIS bandana I am in love with. The 4.3" LCD is THIS model LCD panel. It's disabled as the Pi outputs to HDMI, but I'll get SNMP graphs going on it when I get a second or even more Pi's.
  • This LCD was previously used for a DIY snake climate control system, but I had to abandon my snake when I moved a year ago :(
  • The setup was HERE[!] - old photo showing semi-complete. Eventually had it fully coded. This is a tkinter GUI and a PID control algorithm PWM'ing a heating mat for his cage.
  • HERE[!] is a better view. I could VNC in to change his thermostats.
  • BOY[!] did it fucking work great or what. HERE was a primitive Apache script charting the temps stored in SQLite via PYGAL. Note that the second plots are days at a time. The first is a plot of data over weeks. The dips are me resetting the script for improvements.

  • HERE is the top of the rack with ghetto-WAP and HP laser printer. Semi-dead PS3, some spare PSUs, tools, PATCHKABEL, etc etc.

  • HERE she is herself! Top down of the rack as follows,
  • 1u HP ProCurve 2810-48G. I love this thing man.
  • 1u Cheapo Ebay wannabe NeatPatch that cost me like 20 bucks.
  • 2u Keystone inserts with one-off stuff like the modem, NUC, Pi, jacks in the back, routed up front for easy access.
  • Blank
  • 1u Shelf, left: Surfboard Modem, right: Intel NUC 5i3RYH. Pardon the 1/3-unit offset! It's trashy, I know, but the NUC is too tall >_<
  • 1u Shelf, Sager NP3260 (Clevo W25AES) laptop. Used as a media center machine. Kodi, browsers, etc.
  • 1u empty, awaiting rails for the R210 to mount it here.
  • 2u empty, soon to house the second "spare" R710
  • 1u currently holding the 210 on a shelf, soon to just hold tools or cables when the rails arrive...
  • 1/3u reserved 1u, shelf.
  • 2u, C2100 48GB RAM, 2xL5630, 3x1TB, 2x250GB, 1x160GB internal, soon to have an additional 30GB ssd when I prep it. Runs ESXi, virtualized FreeNAS w/ HBA Passthru.
  • 2u R710 in good condition. Both this and the spare R710 rock an X5550 with 24 GB RAM. This currently has 4x 10K drives, soon it'll be 2x in each 710 as local storage. This in addition to the C2100 will be my vCenter Server lab, with vCenter Server itself running on the R210 (along with my management VM).
  • 1u empty
  • 1u blank
  • 1u times two PDUs; outlets are at a premium even though I don't even use that much power!
  • 1u empty TODO get a UPS in there.
  • HERE is the MESS of wiring I hide by shoving this at a wall. Why I monitor the temps lol. You also see the HDMI switcher free-floating, and an HDMI Keystone in the next image below. I intend to shelf-mount the switcher up front for access, but eh, cables are thick, lazy, haven't gotten that far yet.
  • HERE shows the quick disconnect and patch keystone at the bottom rear. So I dont need to rip my modem out if I wheel the rack around. I built it for portability, even though it never moves. For modularity, I left the input and output of the POE injector in the rack for my work-from-home phone. Hence the 5-inch loop connection.
  • HERE is a glory shot of the trio of cables running along the wall. 2 data to my desk, 1 coax to the wall.
  • HERE shows the HDMI switcher which is missing one port. Pi, Sager Laptop, and soon to be VM with Passthru. It switches automatically to the newest source, but I leave the remote handy in case I need to switch it myself. So, it shows the dashboard at all times, and if I fire up the media center with the remote keyboard, it shows that. If the media center goes to sleep, back to the dash. Also intentionally using Grafana because it's gorgeous dark theme.
  • HERE shows my zen area booting up the best workhorse a man could ever buy himself - a THINKPAD! \ o /
  • HERE I kick it back staring at the IT equivalent of paint drying.
  • Since I work night shifts and sometimes even from home, I have curtains to isolate this area from the rest of my studio apartment.

    ---

    Power is metered/controlled with THIS switch. Make sure you have no way of shutting this off! Else you cut power to the whole lab. So far it hasn't had any random-shutoff issues. So I'm happy.

    This lab has taught me A TON, entertained me during off hours, given me uninterrupted sanctuary, prepped me for exams, and everything. After I get MCSA, the R710s + C2100 will be clustered to teach me much more advanced stuff for VCP5/VCP6 study.
u/reboticon · 13 pointsr/RealTesla

I have this one. There are higher rated ones that do more, but I didn't feel like throwing money away before I knew if they were really effective or not. Slight blur when not using the special tape on your windshield, but for price + what it does it's a 9/10 out of me.

https://www.amazon.com/ACECAR-Universal-Interface-Measurement-Temperature/dp/B07NQ9LTGX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hud&qid=1566165814&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/eggoeater · 13 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I went through about 20 crappy POS dashcams before I decided to shell out the >$200 for a blackvue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4E9764/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How do I like it? I've bought 8 more for wife, family, and friends.
It mounts securely to the windshild, doesn't vibrate, and is small enough to be mounted behind my rear-view mirror (to the right) so I can't even see it. It doesn't have a screen (that's a good thing) and they have a great mobile app for viewing videos and configuring it. Also, it doesn't overheat in direct sunlight. Of course, it has GPS.

Here's video of a crash I was in taken with my BlackVue. Woman driving the truck slid on ice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_haW_HZR3Y

u/no_i_didnt_read_it · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You're better off picking up a car "Rear view monitor" type deal for $36. It's probably the same thing, much much cheaper. Heck the buttons on the monitors look exactly identical. Note that these use the RCA connector so don't expect a hi-res display.

If there's one thing I've learned about the rpi, and other groups is that they're doing some serious price gouging on almost all of the accessories they sell.

u/RabidBlackSquirrel · 7 pointsr/Portland

Its reviews have been crap as of late, but I haven't had any problems. Was a bit of a pain to get set up how I wanted (default language was Russian), but now it just does its thing.

  • Camera
  • Memory card
  • If I was rich, I'd get this one instead

    Holds about 10 hours of footage, dumps the oldest clip when the new one writes. Powers on with the car, I ran the power cable up my headliner, through the door seal and behind the glove box to one of my power ports. Can't even see it, no splicing necessary (though you could tap into a 5v line if you have power to the rearview mirror).

    I've seen some shit in the few months I've had it. Several accidents (involving other vehicles), several near misses with cyclists and pedestrians being morons. I strongly believe every driver should have one for their own protection.
u/kyyrbes · 6 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD

Notes:

  • Many of these parts go in and out of stock from domestic vendors. It is recommended that you shop around and find the best option for you.

  • This build comes out below your budget by quite a bit. While you will have to pay for shipping and such, I would advise that you put some of those extra funds toward more props and batteries... you're going to need them.

  • This kit will require some soldering. You can pick up a fairly cheap iron and some solder/flux (I recommend .03-.05) off amazon or from your local hardware store. I would advise practicing for a bit on some old electronics. Thrift stores are a great place to pick up an old motherboard if you don't have any laying around. Soldering is not very difficult and I was able to solder all my pins and other components after just an hour or so of practice!

u/xQcKx · 5 pointsr/videos

You guys really couldn't just look at the bottom right?

http://www.amazon.com/BlackVue-Wi-Fi-DR500GW-HD-Black-Recorder/dp/B00B4E9764

u/grem75 · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The screens he is referring to take a regular composite input, they are typically used with car backup camera installations. Only modification is removing the buck converter so they run on 5V.

These are commonly recommended.

I used this one, which doesn't come with a shell around it.

u/scottbot84 · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Bought [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00) on amazon, I would say the resolution is good enough for gameboy emulation or something similar. For a headless install its nice to plug in if you can't get to a command line any other way, which is what I got it for.

u/piano-black · 4 pointsr/oklahoma
u/Chaind · 4 pointsr/facepalm

I don't think so, pretty sure it is installed correctly and the thing on the side is just a display, not a lens. pretty sure it is something like this. http://www.amazon.com/Blackvue-DR650GW-1CH-128GB-Matte-Black/dp/B01CPBGO7Y/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1463833625&sr=8-22&keywords=wifi+dash+cam

u/randylaheyjr · 4 pointsr/Winnipeg

This is what I have: ($69.99 with coupon)
https://www.amazon.ca/YI-1080P60-Dashboard-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B07L965B6W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549136256&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Dash+cam&psc=1

Super easy to setup. Comes with an adhesive mount and loooooong USB cable. No battery inside so no worries about it bursting, super capacitor instead.

I'm not home or I'd post some pictures from it but it's worked well this winter so far.

u/aft3rmath · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Alright. Simply put there is not an out of the box solution for this. You would have to first figure out the extra hardware needed for the pi to drive the screen and then you would have to write the code to actually use the screen. That software would essentially have to function as a video driver which is usually used for dedicated hardware.

On top of all that the resolution would be very low and you'd probably have trouble even with a terminal.

If you want a small portable screen for your pi I suggest you get something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374906800&sr=1-4&keywords=ntsc+screen

It can be powered off of 12 volts though reading the reviews suggests that you can power it off as low as 5 volts.

u/LesZedCB · 4 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

  • You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.

  • If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.

  • There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.

  • Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.
u/Savvy_One · 4 pointsr/videos

G1W is always a good recommended one, I spent a little more and got the Black Box Mini 0806 (0805 is good too)

u/pascal_wager · 3 pointsr/houston

This one. I have had it since 2010, quite pricy at the time. Pretty sure you can find better dashcam for less than what I paid, now a day.

u/linx_001 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

im using the BW screen.

u/Zamboni4201 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

7" LCD on Amazon. I've used them at work for the past 8 months. They're all still working. :) $68

Tontec® 7 Inch High Resolution 1024*600 TFT LCD Screen Display Monitor for Raspberry Pi 2B B B+ with HDMI VGA Input, DVD VCR Car Rearview Headrest Monitor with Remote HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OOJPAGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OKd3wb1K2YQEW

u/Or4nge · 3 pointsr/videography

I spent a little over $1000 for a phantom 2, a gopro 4 black, a 2 axis gimbal and a couple other random things like extra batteries and carrying case. The older model phantom 2 (I got mine on ebay) goes for a bout $550 with the remote and a battery but without the zenmuse gimbal. The gopro was $500. The gimbal was $50 from china and it works amazingly well. Just as good as the h3-2d imo. those three things are pretty much all you need to start getting some good shots. So for about $1100 you could have a very good aerial rig. If you're looking for fpv also you can find really god kits for around $300. I threw together a cheap FPV kit of my own with stuff I found on Amazon. $38 Transmitter/Receiver $26 Monitor $7 Antenna set $10 Gopro Video Cable $17 3s lipo

u/mesamunefire · 3 pointsr/shittybattlestations

http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344995756&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+lcd

But you will need a 9V~12V adapter. It runs well on a 9V in this case. I just hooked it up to a breadboard.

u/zbowman · 3 pointsr/radiocontrol

Here's my list in case it helps anyone:

u/xasper8 · 3 pointsr/LosAngeles

I've been flying RC stuff for a long time and built my quad - basically out of the ruble of other quads I have destroyed or upgraded.

There are now quads on the market that are ready to to aerial video right out of the box - look into DJI Phantoms.

Also check out the forums at http://www.rcgroups.com/ - there are a TON of knowledgeable people there.

If you are more...daring and confidant in your building skills look at http://diydrones.com/ or http://aeroquad.com/

I built my FPV set up with:

One of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-x-13-x-6-aluminum-case-69315.html

And some black foam board I got at Michael's.

And the transmitter and receiver is: Boscam 5.8Ghz FPV System (TS352 TX + RX305 RX / 500mw)

With an upgraded antenna: Boscam 5.8Ghz Cloud Spirit Antenna

PM me if you need more info.

u/digitalife · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I use this, it's $16.99, but you need something like this to power it.

u/mntbss · 3 pointsr/DIY

This is the most popular one used in the community
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It might be the same one OP used as well.

There's a few different versions that people get but here's a wiki.
http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php?title=GBZ_Screen

u/NBQ5 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

Thanks! GBA games perform rather well actually as well as GBC games. I was playing oracle of seasons and it seemed to run great! I couldn't figure out how to use the original gameboy screen so I purchased and modded [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) screen to fit my needs. It only draws about 270-300mA so it's not too power hungry making it a fairly good choice for this project. Unfortunately the resolution is crap and reading the small text in the OS menus is difficult.

u/anko47 · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/HerrDoktorHugo · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Hey! I've been using this rearview screen with a Pi for a bit because I had it from another project. It's juuust unsatisfactory enough for me to say you shouldn't go for a teeny tiny screen like this model unless you're only going to use the text console, and you're willing to do some configuring to make it legible.
I suspect that something like the 7-inch screen would have a better resolution and be more tolerable.

u/jumpiz · 2 pointsr/carcrash

Thanks for the info!
I live in Los Angeles.

I got one of those $25 dollar Chinese knock offs at the beginning to test a dashcam for the first time, but it was so inconsistent that I got to buy a good one.

I bought a BlackVue Wi-Fi DR500GW-HD 16GB (replaced the 16GB for a 32GB Micro SD Card). Records 1080p @ 30fps and with a 32GB SD-Card can go for days of recordings before the last one gets erased. If you watch a Youtube recording of this camera to check the quality, keep in mind most of the uploads compresses the video so the original quality will be higher than that.

Very nice camera. If you play the video in their program on your computer you can also see the Google map of your whole trip on the side at real time due to the GPS in the camera. You can also see the screen in real time while in the car if you connect your android/iphone with the WiFi's feature of the camera.

I used to have it in my 2012 Accord connected to the 12v power because it only activates when the ignition is On. So it records and it turns off when you turn your car off.

I just bought a Mustang and after an entire day with the dashcam on, I just discovered that Mustangs have the 12v power on all the time (??). So I have to buy Blackvue Power Magic Pro to cut the power when the battery reaches 11.8v so it doesn't get discharged. You can also set a timer for parking mode so it records a certain amount of hours and turns off. It has a switch to cut the power when you turn off the car or you can let the camera with power so it records in parking mode.

You have to install some cables in the fuse box and attach the ground to the chassis. But it was done in 30-45 mins.

I will sell my old one in Amazon and the one that I want to buy now is BlackVue Wi-Fi 2 Channel DR550GW-2CH 16GB.

Looks awesome plus recorded video will be synchronized front and rear.

u/flyinb11 · 2 pointsr/SEGAGENESIS

Haven't installed it yet, but I picked this up.
BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/_Skylake_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/GuyWithABulldog · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I use this one, and it's fine. A bunch of extra cables that you have to deal with though. Tontec® 7 Inch High Resolution 1024*600 TFT LCD Screen Display Monitor for Raspberry Pi 2B B B+ with HDMI VGA Input https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OOJPAGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nVcExb09V5S8D

u/imri · 2 pointsr/Roadcam
u/skeezyrattytroll · 2 pointsr/rva

For Joe Citizen like you or I his recommendation is spot on. Especially so if you do not fit too many of his profile indices, or any of his guilt indices. (Lord have mercy don't be grabbing your head or avoiding eye contact if you're holding!)

One recommendation that may not have been financially reasonable at the time the video was made is a dash cam. One cheap example here in a Jalopnik article that costs $60. Even a nice rig like the Blackvue DR500GW-HD on Amazon is under $250. The devices are amazingly useful for establishing that you indeed did not 'bobble the lane' as claimed to justify the stop.

u/Californiaolivia · 2 pointsr/Advice

I don’t recommend Amazon, but. I found cheaper on EBay, but you decide. vava dash camera

u/Thejungleboy · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The reviews seem mixed, but I grabbed the first one that said "DVD" and "HDMI" which covers most bases.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RVD10HD-GR-Monitor-Player-Games/dp/B01D80KEF4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3CMVWLZ3MJPGK&keywords=flip+down+car+monitor&qid=1568994488&sprefix=flip+down+ca%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-5

and if you don't want to mount one screen to the ceiling I'm sure you could use this:

https://www.amazon.com/WONNIE-Portable-Players-Headrest-Rechargeable/dp/B07PY75JFX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=30H766DHBNHZ9&keywords=head+rest+dvd+players+for+car&qid=1568994794&sprefix=head+res%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-3

or something similar and add some sort of third monitor.

The last question would be sound, which I think is more about preference. They seem to have built in speakers. If they are not loud enough, Do you wanted it routed through the car audio? Aux jack would probably work. Separate? Im sure you could rig something up with inexpensive amazon speakers.

Im a nut about cable management and having things look factory so if I were to do this like this i would spend a bunch of time routing wires and doing custom brackets and such. I think it could work pretty well

u/gyroninja · 2 pointsr/SSBM

The one I use is https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU. It says it takes 12v but it works fine with 7.4v. For audio I have an adapter so I can plug my headphones into the av cable audio from the system.

u/xilex · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Nice project! Definitely fit for a write-up. I was thinking of using a HUD like this: https://www.amazon.com/SHEROX-Interface-OverSpeed-Temperature-Measurement/dp/B01NADDHED

This one takes ODB data as input, but I have no tools to probe and see how it's receiving/sending data for the display.

u/swings2raw · 2 pointsr/Acura

I have this VAVA dashcam and it works great. Has a built in battery too so if it senses a collision when the car is off, it’ll kick on.

Another favorite feature of mine is that it uses its own GPS to log speed and mapping trips. Other cams I’ve had relied on my phone, draining battery and making it hot.

u/scapegoat4 · 2 pointsr/smashbros

You can actually buy standalone screens that are usually used in cars, which can be extremely tiny while still supporting an RCA (red yellow white) connector.

From what I can tell, this is the model Axe is using.

He's right about the lag too; I used something similar back in high school and it was second to a CRT

u/Rammid · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbZBCb47R967R

u/vero358 · 2 pointsr/skoolies

I can explain this because i have the same problem with my bus. It isnt that the bus will only go 37mph, its that the speedometer will go up to 37mph and then stop there no matter how fast you go. I can do 65mph and the speedometer will stay at 37mph until i drop below 37mph. Now, this is a problem if you HAVE to rely on that. You can buy a new cluster or get it repaired for 200-400. Or the solution that i came up with is to just get a GPS speedometer for $30 on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/LeaningTech-Universal-Speedometer-Overspeed-Windshield/dp/B01LJCA1B0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=K4X6BS2C1BW7&keywords=gps+speedometer&qid=1551214653&s=gateway&sprefix=gps+spee%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3

You could look at different ones than this one as well, its just cheap and works. The only thing i dont like is the audio warnings. once an hour it will let out long beep, and if you overspeed whatever you have the max speed set at, it will beep.

u/Y0tsuya · 2 pointsr/cars

It's a Mini 0806

But I actually prefer the 0805. The 0806 has some FW bugs they never bothered fixing.

u/BronzeG3 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Looking at the manual (http://www.fatshark.com/uploads/pdf/1722-1.pdf), HDMI is input only, but there is an AV In/Out port. You should be able to connect the AV cable to a small LCD (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Reversing-Satellite-Receiver-Equipment/dp/B006MPRFJQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1417057805&sr=8-5&keywords=car+lcd) powered by a 3S battery.

u/tfellad · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Dash Cam, ARTSEA 170° Wide Angle View 1920x1080P 2.0'' Screen Mini Car Camera with Parking Monitor Loop Record Impact Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752CFKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1HQBbFQADFK1

u/JudasRose · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Is there any way to make this work?

u/jhall589 · 2 pointsr/fpv

Oh sure I was honest in saying you will eventually spend a heck of a lot more. Yet my point is that too many people think it's too expensive.

Fpv shopping list for one on a budget:
(Do your own research next time)
Monitor
7" TFT LCD Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NxCXub0G1JF6N
$27 hook you TX and a 12th source and you have video.

Now for the good stuff...
700 TVL Surveillance Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GMAAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zACXub1JMVWMM
$30 strip the camera out and hook it up to a 3S battery. Your video. This is your basic over priced $60 Sony board camera.

Now for your TX/RX:
1.2G 8ch video transmitter and receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M7TBAZG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3FCXub0RC8NSF
$65

I'm at $120 here. All prime and definitely not the absolute cheapest solution.

If you don't have a soldering iron go to harbor freight and pick one up for $10. Get flux and solder for another $10.

Build your own antennas, I did. Lazy people spend $60 on a pair of antennas.

My point is this hobby can be a cheap or expensive as you make it. I'm tired of the misconceptions with "drones", the media portrays us as idiots. Yet many of us are genius.

Use your creativity and build something cheap or buy something expensive but make the hobby what you want to make it. If you lack the technical skill to build, there are plenty of alternatives just be willing to pay.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/carcrash

Double +1 for you, thanks!

I'm going to keep an eye on that, but it has some reviews that make me go "hm" (particularly the heat related issues and firmware flashing). I may actually get the DR500GW since that seems to have ironed out the teething troubles of the 400. Many thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

u/lukejw6 · 2 pointsr/Cyberpunk

here is a diagram of a night vision goggle setup using This camera and this display. seams like you could get it working fairly easily, if you wanted any thing other than night vision you would have to get a arduino or something.




This is the tutorial the diagram is from.

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Security camera would work for that. Cheapest option would be something like this https://www.amazon.com/Podofo-Universal-Waterproof-Camera-Reversing/dp/B0773F2WQ2/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ntsc+camera+12v&qid=1554802296&s=gateway&sr=8-13 , has old school composite video output you can hook up directly to a TV.

u/m_bishop · 2 pointsr/coredump

Use this for the display: http://www.amazon.com/inch-Foldable-Rearview-Monitor-Screen/dp/B006MPRFJQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1426717421&sr=8-4&keywords=backup+lcd

add a fresnel lense from Walmart for $1.50, a $1.00 strap, $1.00 for black craft foam, and some cardboard.


$17.50

u/bad_cab · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

For video I am using a car backup monitor because it is cheap. I don't know if my package was missing directions or if they just don't include directions but the power input is 12v DC. The package came with wires meant to be attached to a battery but I used the power adapter for my power drill to make it run off AC. Since the screen is so small I had to make the font bigger so that I could read it. This can be done by running 'dpkg-reconfigure console-setup'

u/The-Bent · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I have used a 3.5 inch "backup camera screen" from amazon. It is low rez but it has a tiny controller board and runs off of 5v and the component video signal from the pi.

Edit: this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511373767&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=backup+screen&dpPl=1&dpID=41qtbKk9UvL&ref=plSrch

u/ragormack · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

u/Abradolf--Lincler · 2 pointsr/arduino

I'm trying to be able to display a grayscale picture stored on my Arduino mega 2560. The monitor takes a composite video signal. How should I start? What library could I use if any exists? Do I need to use an SD card?
Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420054002&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51340p0rfNL&ref=plSrch

u/psyco_llama · 2 pointsr/fpv

This is what I will be using. It can run on a 3S battery and is only $26 bucks. Has 2 inputs too. Cant go wrong: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/andyneerg · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I use these screens all the time in the multi world we rarely if ever fly out of video range. So you pay twice as much so the screen turns to snow instead of blue. That screen sucks though I have used this one for the last 2 setups for customers they work awesome. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OOJPAGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And yes you still have to make a power plug but you would even if you bought this $100 screen http://www.getfpv.com/8-lumenier-lcd-fpv-monitor.html
I own both and the 7" from amazon has a way better picture.

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/goprodiy

I used This monitor mounted on a pvc frame. I used a lipo 5000mah 11.1v battery. I use the GoPro combo cable (because I already had it for external mic/power) and connect it to the RCA on the TV. You can get a mini USB to RCA adapter on ebay for a few bucks. Hope this helps!

EDIT: I thought you said Hero 3... sorry! I don't know what kind of connectors the camera has on it. I use hero 3 cameras with my setup.

u/hexcor · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

I know this is 3 months old.. BUT..

I used this screen in my nomad last week

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

comes with adjustments for brightness etc, fits perfectly where the backlight goes. Also seems to keep the settings after turning off

just know, you're hitting the component video, so it's going to have a muddy picture.

I just got a second nomad from goodwill and fixed it, I MAY keep the stock screen in it until someone can get svideo or rgb to work

u/FivePtFiveSix · 2 pointsr/djiphantom

it's possible, but the amount of extra equipment you'd need would outweigh and outprice the cheaper LCD option i mentioned earlier. You can get a 7" lcd on amazon prime for like <$25 like this http://amzn.com/B007SLDF7O and hook it up to the boscam reciever. Power everything with a 3s lipo.

u/Z4ph00d · 1 pointr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

I'm working on smth similar right now (link) I doubt that an old lcd will work. Getting the right screen is one of the more frustrating things so far.
I'm gonna get a 3.5 screen meant for parking cameras in a car or smth (Link)

u/Insanerkid · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Dash Cam, VAVA 1920x1080P@60fps Wi-Fi Car Dash Camera with Sony Night Vision Sensor, Dashboard Camera Recorder with GPS, Parking Mode, G-Sensor, Support 128GB max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC68QQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xNujDbWY9ZBNZ but as long as your cam has a GPS module, it'll record your speed.

u/DoobCruise · 1 pointr/fpv

Hmm, what about http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404768541&sr=8-1&keywords=fpv+monitor ?

I actually found that Boscam I linked to earlier on Amazon for a little cheaper and it comes with free 2 day shipping. I try to avoid HobbyKing when I can find an alternative. I mainly just search HobbyKing for reviews and discussion on products I can find elsewhere.

Would that monitor be okay? I see it has the required AV inputs, though my confusion would be powering it. I still haven't looked into it a whole lot yet, because I'm on break at work right now and about to go back in but will read up more later.

The whole laptop idea seemed simpler to me, though I did not take into account issues when streaming. My main goal was to just have an easy, portable, battery powered 'monitor' to haul with me.

u/sityaR · 1 pointr/Dashcam

The DX1 can function perfectly fine without one. It will work out of the box, "plug and play". The only thing that really needs a screen to configure is the date and time. If you get the GPS module, even that will be potentially unnecessary since the GPS will auto sync date/time, just need to set the correct time zone once (default is UTC -7 PDT).

If you do prefer having a screen, you can choose any out of the huge selection of aftermarket LCD monitors available, just make sure you get one that supports standard RCA video input. For example, a quick search on Amazon for 4.3" LCD monitor, 5" and 7", all examples are top results and not affiliated with nor endorsed by us.

u/wjdp · 1 pointr/techtheatre

We've just installed a system with a monochrome CCTV camera (£10) from eBay, lots of coax and a load of £25 7'' monitors (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ePathChina%C2%AE-Camera-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396316279&sr=8-1&keywords=tft+colour+monitor) and a big TV for the green room.

Worked out very cheap and is a lot easier to 'make work' than an IP camera system for the less technical types.

u/Im2Nelson4u · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.

Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20

Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00

u/redhotsedative · 1 pointr/djiphantom

not really, the built in FPV on the vision is crap, and the camera isn't that great, you made the right choice setting up your own rig and getting a go pro that you can actually use without your phantom. this is the monitor and i have it wired up to this battery pack. I spent about 170 total and have 3x the range and better quality than a vision or vision+

u/preventDefault · 1 pointr/FJCruiser

I use the BlackVue DR500GW-HD. It's expensive, but given the FJ's narrow windshield, I wanted something really small.

I have it mounted up behind the rearview mirror... first I mounted it up too high in an area the wipers didn't reach, and snow would block everything. So I moved it down. You can't see it from the drivers' seat though.

I used a credit card to tuck the wire up in the headliner, ran it behind the A-pillar, behind the dash and to the fusebox.

u/jeffaulburn · 1 pointr/halifax

Currently I have this one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Display-Universal-Interface-Overspeed-Warning/dp/B06XRBHCT7/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523619872&sr=1-6&keywords=Heads+up+display&dpID=51WW90U0kzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It's easy to install and setup. Only thing is you will likely need to calibrate it for your speedometer and fuel consumption. I did an initial calibration only to find out I had been off by about 3-5% and it's cumulative. So, for example, it'll display maybe 1km/h faster than I am really going at 20km/h but at 110km/h it will be showing me going 4-5km/h faster than that. Ditto for my fuel consumption, it actually is a bit reverse on that one for some reason.

All in all it's just handy to have it right there to see but it takes time to calibrate it, I just haven't spent enough time doing that yet myself.

u/GreekHubris · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

> I found this https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile
> gets good reviews from pi users

Link is not working for me. I think this is the product he linked to: https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU

u/uberdalum · 1 pointr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

I've had a lot of luck using this tiny little backup monitor off of Amazon. BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lhLNybRFJ6ZEE

It's definitely inexpensive, a little cheap too ;)

u/Dirtbagx · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I've bought through Ebay, bc robotics, aliexpress, banggood etc...

Most small parts like tactile buttons, power switch, volume wheels, rubber membranes, gameboy shells, and buttons were bought from ebay/aliexpress. Long shipping times but cheap prices.

I also bought the custom button PCBs from eBay. Although I did get one all in one board from Helder at sudomod.com
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232363938160

I bought my power boosts from banggood for a few dollars (works the same as adafruits but much cheaper)
https://m.banggood.com/37V-Liion-Battery-Mini-USB-To-USB-A-Power-Apply-Module-p-928948.html?p=9B1915347037201311DI

I bought 1 screen from Alibaba and two from geatbest. I prefer the gearbest screens. You can also find some 23$ screens on Amazon with prime shipping too. Which apparently will work.
http://m.gearbest.com/development-boards/pp_29447.html

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nkSqzb14CJP3C

As for the batteries, amplifier, speakers, etc...i bought from BC robotics online store. You can get adafruit parts from them. Still expensive, but shipping isnt bad if you are buying lots. Plus they have a 5$ shipping promo on now. you can also find cheaper batteries on ebay, or like I did in one build i used a 9$ galaxy note 3 battery.

http://www.bc-robotics.com/products/

I've bought my pi zero's from the pi hut. They seem to have them in stock often and cost about 20 CAD after shipping and conversion:

https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-w?variant=30332705425
(Seems they are sold out now)

That's all I can think of now. Let me know if you have any questions. Also browse through the sudomod.com forums or wiki for tons of info.

u/skitz0h · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

wait so this one you linked OP https://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5%22+monitor

the red is the power source and then it just has one audio wire ( white and the yellow being video ? )

u/EOMFD · 1 pointr/RetroPie

It's this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU you might have to modify it for it to work with 5volts

u/TreeFitThee · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I picked up this 3.5"
LCD
from Amazon. Unfortunately, I clicked buy before I measured. I think the biggest that will fit is 2.8". I'm currently looking for another option without having to spend double for the 2.8" touch screen Adafruit has to offer (since I don't care if it's touch screen).

I have not yet figured out how I'll do controls. I was going to wait until the blog author posts an official parts list. In the mean time I was going to pair it with my 8bitdo SFC30 controller.

u/mmichaeljjjfoxxx · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I think a lot of people use this one for handheld gaming projects. It's a little bigger than you said and uses av instead of hdmi.

u/irreligiosity · 1 pointr/DIY

You're much better off buying an lcd with video input built in, that one is $17 on amazon and would be easy to wire up.

You'd probably end up spending more money trying to go the more DIY route and buying an LCD and LCD controller. I'm pretty sure Arduino has a way to hook up LCD though if you are so inclined.

u/enerener · 1 pointr/gadgets

I don't know if this rearview car monitor with an HDMI in port would work with the stick ... inexpensive way to work at the beach ultimately. :-)

u/JohnnyStFartHugger · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

This is a Yi 2.7" screen full HD 165 wide angle camera https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07L965B6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/themackster · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

How would you power a car monitor like this

u/rondhi · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Been looking at this. Probably would fit in a GBA or GBA SP case.

3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU

u/CRofMel · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Have you heard anything good about Vacron dashcams, one has four cameras they claim is "360"? here1 and here2.


I see what your saying, I will have to look more into the issues around recording two cameras on one sd. I guess it isn't necessary having to record to the same device, just have two separate devices. So I could potentially put a SG9665GC both in the front and rear windows and be set. They do seam pretty small.

u/DFile · 1 pointr/Shitty_Car_Mods

You know, considering the amount of work that went into this you would think they would have invested in better quality screens, these are the shittiest generic monitors I've ever seen. The resolution is only 480x234. They're $32 each on Amazon if you want one https://www.amazon.com/Padarsey-Backlight-Serveillance-Satellite-Equipment/dp/B01IEYP4UE

u/LrRecas · 1 pointr/CX5

As a workaround, it’s possible to add a 3rd party heads up display that connects to the OBD2 port.

Many different models on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/iKiKin-Display-Speedometer-Windshield-Projector/dp/B07MCWG3JT/

Never tried them, don’t know how well these work.

u/xCelestial · 1 pointr/Dashcam

It’s a VAVA

Edit: it’s pretty mid range in terms of everything, they do offer dual cams, and it still does use an SD card but it’s not included FYI

u/jebix666 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You can also pick them up pretty cheap on amazon.com, I got one that was 3.5inches for $15. but they have a larger one for only a bit more.

http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375819632&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5inch+screen

u/DarkSlaayer · 1 pointr/fpv

I think I will use this screen and strap it onto the top of my 9xr along with the vrx. Gonna be alot of electronic work dont really have to much experience with. Got to cut the wire and put a those red jst's on it.

u/scootey · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You'll want to look for a low-cost/low-spec 7" LCD TV, although sometimes it may be a 7" video display with no TV tuner. If you're in the US, this one on Amazon looks similar/identical to the one OP has for $26.20. It has a mounting/rotating assembly intended for car installation, although it looks like it should be able to stand on its own (similar to OP's photo).

Keep in mind that these are also low-res too, and you'll have to use the composite output of the Raspberry Pi for video. If you want sound, that might be possible too by connecting a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable to the Pi's headphone connector. Some of these have batteries too, although the one I linked to designed for car use may not. If it does have a battery and TV tuner though, it might also be useful as a battery-powered "emergency TV".

I have one of these that I bought on clearance for around US$25 a few years ago (from CVS of all places) sitting around. Previously I've given thought to using in a Pi project, but this post gave me a little bit of inspiration to give it a shot. Thanks OP!

u/gh5046 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

The components don't have to be that expensive.

  • Analog monitor - $18
  • Power supply for the monitor - $8
  • Keyboard - $9
  • No mouse is required - $0
  • 4GB SD card - $7
  • Case - $9
  • Raspberry Pi - $35
  • USB wall charger (can power four units) - $8
  • 6ft Micro USB cable - $1.50

    With this configuration you're looking at ~$96 per seat, about half of your estimate.

    When the Model A comes out the price will come down another $10. I'm sure even cheaper new components could be found and more savings could be had if used components were purchased or received as donations instead. It could be possible to get to the $50 level.
u/jayscullin · 1 pointr/MINI

I have this one hard-wired in my Clubman with a 32gb card. So far, a year later it's been great. I mounted it on that little black plastic piece behind the mirror. Video quality is good, and it has GPS, an accelerometer, and will continuously record over the card so you don't have to format it. My only gripes are:

  1. No Mac software
  2. It rattles (might just be the car).

    I'm actually thinking of upgrading to this. It supports mac, and even has an iOS/android app that lets you stream video wirelessly. Expensive, though.

u/ezeeetm · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

[Unformatted Example Response Post]

u/dantheflipman · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Screen

amazon link

Voltage boost converter for powering it

amazon link

u/hoowahman · 1 pointr/cade
u/smoothtalker · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Here is the screen I used. You can draw your own conclusions. Hehe

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bfeagans · 1 pointr/RetroPie

In addition to what everyone else said, these resources got me up and running:

http://www.sudomod.com/game-boy-zero-screen-alternatives/ - overview

http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php/Screens - specific options and tutorials

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU - the unit I bought for my handheld. Sudomod says that these devices vary, so you’re not ensured to get the same board I did

My screen runs off of gpio without issue, in any event, I just had to mod the screen following sudomod directions to support 5v.

u/Faneofnewhope · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

It's a 7 inch. This is the actual monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O?vs=1

u/SupeRoBug78 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm sorry, I couldn't find it at the time. Here it is though.

u/StopPlopAndRoll · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I used this one. It's cheap and it works but you need to solder it so it can run on 5v. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504033324&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3.5+inch+backup+camera&dpPl=1&dpID=41qtbKk9UvL&ref=plSrch

The screens inside aren't all the same so if you check over at www.sudomod.com there is a thread in the forums showing where people have soldered them based on the different guts. Hope this helps!

u/backwoods_neckbeard · 1 pointr/Multicopter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O?colid=3FIAXDQH9G26G&coliid=I18XOHTC9I1ZOL&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

this is a decent screen for 25 bucks. if you want to order from china you can get it for under 20.

u/Infideon · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This is the monitor I'm looking at, and it says you have to provide your own power source. I'm dissapointed about this cause it says "12V DC" and That's more than 5v.

Is there a way to do this? And if not, can anyone point me to a 4+inch monitor for a good price?

edit: this was in the comment section:

If you own a soldering iron and a screw driver it is VERY easy to make this 5v powered. The power input (red wire) goes to a buck converter which converts the 6-32VDC input down to the 5VDC that the display uses. After this change it pulls about 2W. At first I rewired the power connector to a USB but it's so big, bulky, and a waste of limited USB connections that I later changed to a 2 pin header to plug into a 5v/ground pair on the GPIO header. This will be on the edge of what the Raspberry Pi can source so you'll need to do one of two things. One option is plug the screen into a powered USB hub, but this defeats the simplicity of the mod. Instead just bypass the polyfuse (big green chip near the power connector on the Pi) and buy a 10W USB charger as your power source (I have the New Trent one from Amazon which is only $10). On average I am seeing ~4W total while playing music + WIFI + USB audio DAC + this beautiful monitor.

Is that explanation true/worth trying?