Best air-compressor accessories according to redditors
We found 148 Reddit comments discussing the best air-compressor accessories. We ranked the 73 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 148 Reddit comments discussing the best air-compressor accessories. We ranked the 73 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
This right here 👆
Energy audits are the first place to start $100-$200
Also You also never want to power ventilate an attic.
It will just suck your conditioned air out of your house. Passive vents are find.
As for the New AC unit, make sure it came with a hard start hooked up to it. Those things are lifesavers for your ac. Instead of pulling 50-69amps at start up it is a lot lower like 20-30 amps. Reduces amp draw by up to 50%. Saves wear and tear on the ac. Y
 http://www.five-two-one.com/compressor-saver-how-it-works.html
CPS 5-2-1 CSRU1 Compressor Saver for 1 to 3 Ton Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FNMADE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45OLDb51E776H
You will need to size it to your AC unit. Super easy to install. Also look into getting a backup capacitor for you unit. It will be nice to have if you unit goes out.(most likely cause of AC not working if the unit was installed correctly)
Same, it does a great job, and also works for cleaning the deck of my riding mower. I got mine much cheaper at Amazon, by the way.
Auto Drain Valve fam.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Automatic-Tank-Drain-Compressors/dp/B00273WV78/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510342394&sr=8-4&keywords=auto+drain+valve+air+compressor
https://www.amazon.com/BE-PRESSURE-85-400-062-Undercarriage-Cleaner/dp/B0065OYYQQ
You're welcome.
If it's the desk legs banging the floor, anti vibrations pads
Or is the desk itself noisy? Not much could be done without introducing some slop into your setup.
Maybe try some anti vibration feet for your bed? That might stop the vibration from transferring to the bed frame while you're sleeping. I don't really have any recommendations of what style to use but there seems to be a few different options on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZS0CH6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_zQi1CbJJZNBAJ
Yeah, I would think that it would work fine. Just attach a regulator with a water trap to the beginning of the line going to your
compressor. Edit: to your airbrush.https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2
Thank you. I have a sink in the basement, so I can do what you've described. That should save most of my plumbing. Great idea! I can add this air compressor fitting to make sure I get all the water out. The only pipe that might freeze is the one that feeds the house. That'll be a lot cheaper to replace than all my plumbing.
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B017CKUKHS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=air+compressor+to+hose&qid=1571693819&sr=8-4
I bought everything to do it at home because it was cheaper than having a few rifles done by other people. And I like learning new things and doing it myself.
$120 Benchtop Blast Cabinet
$45 50lbs Aluminium Oxide blast media
$40 Dewalt Touch-up Spray gun
$8 Oil/Water Separator
$18 3M Respirator
$8 Powder Free gloves
$14 5ml Glass syringe for easily measuring small amounts of H-Series catalyst. Not necessary but nice. (Grainger.com)
$20 Gallon of Acetone (hardware store)
$30 for misc hoses/fittings
$$$ Container for soaking parts in acetone. I use a 50cal ammo can for almost everything
$$$ Oven for curing if using H-series. I use an old large toaster oven.
$$$ Air compressor with regulator (I already had this)
$$$ Cerakote (plus mesh strainer, graduated cylinder, tape, etc)
​
$300 not including the compressor, Cerakote or oven.
​
Definitely buy extra Cerakote to practice with and learn how to adjust the spray gun. I practiced on some old tools and a rusty vise that I had. I now have a Stormtrooper White vise on my workbench.
​
I make 40-50 gal batches for the nursery where I work and we use this pump for aeration. Poly tubing from the pump into a section of black soaker hose bent to a figure 8 shape with the cap on the end of the hose. Pushes out a great column of bubbles when weighted down (I use a 2 ft. piece of rebar tied to the soaker hose) to the bottom of the barrel.
My recipe for 40 gallons:
All the solids go in a mesh bag intended for grains in a homebrewer's setup. Alfalfa expands/floats, so put some rocks in there. We also have a smaller pump with an airstone inside the bag to force microbes out into the solution. 48 hrs. or so of bubbling/foaming. I run it through a Dos-a-tron at the highest setting it will allow, 2% solution. I wish I could get up to about 15% tea in that solution for out potted plants and maybe even 50% on our propagation beds. I've just poured full strength tea on our beds from a watering can before. I alternate with a fish emulsion fertilizer, so it's hard to say exactly what effects are attributable to either fertilizer regimen, so hope this helps.
The reason why /u/triviper said it's about $200+ to start airbrushing is because you need not just the airbrush, but the compressor, moisture trap, hose, and adaptors if you're buying everything separately and want a setup that will last you a long time.
My setup isn't the best, but I got
*ie=UTF8&qid=1469082512&sr=8-1&keywords=moisture+trap)
Total = ~$145
Hope this helps. Brings me back to when I was researching all this for myself.
My setup isn't the best, but it's the bare minimum that I was comfortable with. Two years later and I'm still using the same stuff except I got a spray booth and respirator since I'm using lacquers now
/u/MacdougalLi /u/xhui /u/arkanoid2520
Edit: my bad, this doesn't factor into the paint, alligator clips, and various topcoats. Note that I had all of the former because I started out with spray cans. The cost will probably go up to $170 - $200 depending on what you also get
I do not live in the salt belt but I am under the impression water cases iron to oxidize (rust) but salt accelerates the reaction because salt increases the conductivity of water. So from that logic, seems like the best bet is to rinse the undercarriage as much as possible to remove the salt. If you are super concerned which sounds like you are, I wonder if picking one of these up would help. If you have a garage for after the rinse to let the undercarriage dry I think would be ideal. https://www.amazon.com/BE-PRESSURE-85-400-062-Undercarriage-Cleaner/dp/B0065OYYQQ
Can you buy one of these and a pressure washer?
BE PRESSURE 85.400.062 16" Undercarriage Cleaner, 4000 PSI https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0065OYYQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H0m6BbE99140Q
I live in South TX, never had to worry about rust..
these things work great. You can set the timer for how long it opens and how often. We have them on all our compressors since people can't be bothered to drain them.
Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:
Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.
I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.
Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).
I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.
edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.
It all depends on the temperature of your tank and hose. I can't say how long it will take because there's a lot of factors, but if it's been sitting there long enough to be around the ambient temperature, then it will condense in the tank and pool at the bottom (this will cause corrosion unless you drain it weekly). If your hose is the first time it reaches dewpoint, then you will be spraying a bit of water with the air. This is what happens most of the time if you are using the air soon after it is compressed.
Basically if you move very little volume like cleaning the occasional case, then you would be fine to buy something like this which gives you a few things. First is the trap. This needs to be downline from the compressor enough for the air to cool sufficiently for the water to condense into the trap. If you place this immediately after the compressor while it is running, it will do nothing. Second, it has a regulator to accurately change the pressure which would be nice for not blasting and breaking a fan or something. Third, it has a gauge to show your delivered pressure. With this you can fill your tank to as high of a pressure as it is rated for and fine-tune the pressure here.
Anyway, like you say, it's probably not much of a big deal and the average person will be fine, but it's something to be aware of.
Here's how you can figure out what the dewpoint of your compressed air is if you want:
The air in your tank needs to be under that temperature for water vapor to condense and for a trap to be useful. It's hard to say for sure without measuring it, but air can be around 300 F after being compressed, so it could take some time to cool sufficiently. Hope that wasn't too wordy.
it really depends on your budget. One of my favorite brushes is a badger 105 patriot found here
This brush will last you a long time with proper care. It's also reasonably priced and has a great spray pattern (pencil line to almost three inches). As for a compressor I personally use a California air tool - quite air model found here
I use this guy because of the large tank and because it has a rust free tank. Most model or little compressors have tanks that are made out of iron which will rust after some time. But depending on how much you wanna spend here are ones I would recommend because they come with a tank and an adjustable regulator/water trap (but as you can see they are not to far off from the California one)
Paache
PointZero
I have the second one in that list, however after a year the tank rusted even with proper care :(
An air compressor with a moisture trap and a narrow nozzle. You can get a small desk-sized compressor for under $100 from a pawn shop. A filter and moisture trap is cheap on Amazon.
You just can't get the power of compressed air from a little electric pump.
Why on that website? The stuff on there is both expensive and pretty crappy.
Gun to my head, I'd go for this one, but it's $25 cheaper for the same stuff on Amazon.
I'll break down why for you, too.
The Iwata Eclipse HP-CS is a damn fine airbrush. It's not gonna give you the finest lines or the broadest strokes in the whole wide world, but it will keep on kicking and you can depend on this thing for a long, long time. You can cheap out on the airbrush in a pinch, but you're looking for a bad time if you skimp on your tools. 3 crappy airbrushes can't compete with one rock-solid one.
If you're going for a compressor, get one with a tank for multiple reasons.
I'm not trying to be a dick about it. Airbrush-specific compressors fall into two categories: affordable garbage and expensive perfection. There doesn't seem to be a reasonable middle ground. I'd suggest you skip the "airbrush" tag altogether and get a standard air compressor from the hardware store (or online, whatever tickles you) and run with it. For $10 in fittings, you'll have whatever PSI you want where you want it and you're not paying that hobby tax. I use this compressor and it's pretty fantastic. Quiet compared to most compressors, cheaper than most, and it kicks on once every 5 minutes or so for about 20 seconds while I'm in the thick of things. It's not as silent as the $400-$1200 compressors for airbrushing, but it's quiet enough during full-tilt operation to hear the TV from the other room.
screw the top of one of these with pliers or a screwdriver :
https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-Closed-Chuck-4-Inch/dp/B008PZ7L5O
Screw it into one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-MNPT-x-1-4-in-I-M-Steel-Plug-12224HOM/205330366
Insert a 7/32 socket into the bowl
And your done
You'll probably get a better response over at /r/modelmakers or /r/modelcars.
A 30+ year-old airbrush probably isn't too good for a beginner to start with. Depending on your budget, you can get airbrush kits from Amazon for under $100, or go all out for a Paasche, Badger, or Iwata setup for $200 and up.
This is the kit I started with. The brushes are surprisngly well-made, and I haven't had any problems with them, except the big one's plastic handle broke. The compressor isn't that good, but it's good enough to get some experience. Mine won't hold pressure after 2 years, and the regulator sucks, but I've painted some pretty cool models with it.
Again, it all depends on your budget. If you're under $100, check out the Master Airbrush stuff on Amazon - if you have more to spend, look for a compressor with a storage tank like this.
Probably not viable, but in an attempt to exhaust all options: Do you have access to an air compressor? If it was me, I'd try to use something like this to force high PSI air into the first driver pin hole that's visible, and attempt to force the two dropped pins back up though gaps in the key and cylinder while pulling gently outwards.
For computer and other items that air flow important... [blow gun]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCHA3R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4UN7AbV904TYN
It came in a standard air hose kit which included a tire nozzle, and a trigger type blow gun thats perfect for this application and it accepts different screw on tips for blowing up pool toys to air needles to blow up soccer balls.. http://www.amazon.com/Air-Blow-Gun-Kit/dp/B000FVUO4G/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1425923489&sr=1-9
I saw in that video the guy wasn't using one which is dangerous as that can spray water moisture all over your expensive electronics, frying them. What you attach to you air compressor is this. Devices like this separate out a large amount of the moisture that is pulled out of the air thanks to your air compressor, so instead of spraying it all over your components, it's contained in the reservoir.
It's also a good idea to have a regulator attached to your air compressor too, as 75+ psi air on components can break things. Just also make sure you put something in your fans to stop them from spinning, as the high pressure air can spin them so fast it can break things...
All I gotta say is in all the years I've used the water filter on my air compressor to clean my expensive electronics, I have never had anything get fried what so ever. Its ~30 bucks that can save you thousands along with allowing you to easily clean your stuff without worry.
This: http://www.amazon.in/Skil-8600-Air-Blower/dp/B00I9IBE7S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482760918&sr=8-3&keywords=blower
I’ve been using this Paasche compressor and it’s been excellent so far. Precise control of pressure with a gauge and a moisture trap built in. It’s decently quiet too. I’ve heard tankless compressors can cause issues with sputtering paint due to potentially inconsistent airflow so a compressor with a tank could likely resolve those issues. I’m also using an Iwata eclipse.
attach this to your compressor.
http://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJPWYM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Paasche TG-SET Double Action Gravity Feed Airbrush
The air compressor I use with my laser is similar to this one. It has been working quite well so far and isn't too noisy despite what the reviews on Amazon say. My exhaust blower is much noisier and drowns out the compressor noise. It puts out enough air to keep my cutting clean, but I will probably upgrade later so I can get more airflow.
Like everyone else said about an oil and water trap. I would also add a connection to the bottom of your compressor to bleed off the water. You could set it to open for 5 seconds every half an hour or something that matches your requirements and then run a hose to a drain. It makes life a lot easier. Something like this
Optimally you would want to get an air pump where you can draw air in from the outside. I'll explain why.
Typically the CO2 levels in your house are anywhere from 500 - 800 PPM (sometimes even 1000 PPM) higher than the constant 400 PPM outdoors.
One nasty side effect from pumping CO2 rich O2 into your nutrient solutions is it will start to lower your PH. By running an air line outside for fresher air- you can avoid this. This also sets you up for running CO2 in the future if you want.
This pump will allow you to attach a hose to pull air in from the outside.
Tire pressure, when nitrogen is used with a 1/4" flare to tire schrader fitting
> The way hard start kits work is that you place a relay and a capacitor parallel with the run capacitor that is already connected to the PSC motor.
Ah, I see. Now that I look at a picture of one I can see what is probably a relay on top. Assuming you don't use a thermistor type (bad for intermittent use), how does it detect when to switch out?
The application is for small refrigeration or small window A/C units running off an inverter. Optimizing for minimum inrush would let you use a smaller inverter.
Here are three tips:
>>First thing to try is to try adding some capacitance to the starting
side. More capacitance will increase the torque and will usually
reduce the inrush current. We use that trick in the refrigeration
field to make compressors start on low voltage. Try approximately
doubling the start capacitance.
>>A large run cap across the main terminals of the motor will help
with the very low power factor when starting. In other words, it
will supply the reactive VARs that the generator can't. I'd start
with about a 160 microfarad motor RUN (different from a start cap).
>>Having another motor running, particularly if it has a heavy rotor
and/or flywheel, will also help. When the compressor comes on, the
other motor will act as an induction generator and supply power to
the starting motor. This is the trick I use to get my restaurant's
walk-in freezer compressor to start on my emergency generator. An
old motor is a lot cheaper than a new generator :-). Motor should
be larger than the compressor motor. The bigger the better.
So my mistake was assuming a "larger start capacitor" = "hard start kit". I corrected that part above in text post area.
I think this should help. It may not solve the problem outright, as there are many potential pathways for low frequency energy to travel through an old house, but it should help.
Rather than those hifi stands, I would use a set of vibration isolation pads.
Wanting to get a decent airbrush compressor with tank. Amazon recommends this unit and I'm not sure if that'll work or not. Reviews are good and its in my price range. Would be open to suggestions if that's not a great idea or whatnot.
Thanks for the help!
I use this: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00I9IBE7S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Found this one - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPRNOU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
for 40 bucks. I think for what I need it should do fine. I mean, I was prepared to go with something 3x weaker just last night. It's a 20 watt/45 LPM setup. Getting damn near everything else off amazon except the buckets and the grommets/water level indicator setup so I figured it's not bad, free shipping with prime and all.
I used cheap-ass Master airbrushes and a 3-gal shop compressor with a digital regulator and a moisture trap in between the compressor and the brush. The below, plus a few trips to a hardware store for pneumatic fittings, should be enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Gravity-Dual-Action/dp/B00EKUU0WY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561384&sr=8-4&keywords=master+airbrush
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1527561398&sr=1-3&keywords=compressor
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561429&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush+moisture+trap
https://alclad2.com/finishes/
People regularly say you should get a more expensive, higher quality brush, but to date I've yet to have major problems with my cheapo ones. It seems like the main benefit of the better brushes is ease of cleaning and durability.
Don't do compressed air. Either a CO2 tank with a good regulator, or a comressor. I have this one, I think, got it for something like $120. Very quiet, about the size of a laptop, you can use the plug in the picture for scale.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00889ZYD8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
look at the warehouse deals, its about 140 or 150 depends on your state.
Here is a youtube video of a much larger model... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZryRKHrCKc
Hose (I'm using it with an iwata eclipse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KDNSU4G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Moisture trap/second regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004KNAHE2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I highly recommend a moisture trap with another regulator on it like that. It will give you fine control over the pressure. This one is a knock off of a few others that look/function exactly the same. The psi readout seems a little funny as pressure drops a full 10 psi when you start the air, but it doesn't seem to affect anything.
As for adapters, I needed a quick release tip, connected to an adapter, connected to a nipple (to extend the moisture trap further out because it touches the air tank), connected to the trap, connected to an adapter for the hose, connected to the hose. I can take a pic later if you'd like.
Talk with your local paint supplier on that particular brand's processes - but you will likely want/need to reprime it so it is sure to stick (and the primer you want to be compatible with the paint you use). I know the primer I used, you wanted to lay paint on it within 48 hours or so for best adhesion.
It takes some practice to get the amount of paint correct, as well as dialing in the gun (watch some Youtube videos). There is a somewhat fine line between putting the final coat on too light and it showing up dry, or all of a sudden you put too much on and you have a run. Don't forget to clean the gun thoroughly after each use.
Final advice? Don't sweat the imperfections, it's a track bike and we aren't pro racers. Also accept that your first full paint job or at least the first couple pieces you do will probably not look great as you learn how to setup the gun and control how much paint to lay down.
thanks.
My badger compressor uses 'bleed-through' as well. (I think) It always runs no matter what.
I ended up ordering these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BROVMK
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNAHE2
Thanks for your suggestion!
This is what I use: Active Aqua Commercial Air Pump, 12 Outlets, 112W, 110 L/min https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JPPFJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bZ27AbR3R4NBW Seems sufficient for my needs
My outdoor setup has a hose spigot attached, and I just hook this up to the hose spigot to blow it out.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017CKUKHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I got these pads for my front-loading washing machine which made a horrible racket. They helped quite a bit. Maybe worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6WT5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This fan
This pump
Right now it's venting outside but I'm looking into at least some filtration to not upset the neighbors.
You really should have an inline filter on your air line.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GQ3SUA/ref=s9_acsd_topr_hd_bw_b3jQpjX_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=QZVN29F2X7P526SCZ3TT&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=dc68059f-0cd4-554c-860c-419946e51f9b&pf_rd_i=3419729011
Okay I think I'll do one of these cork antivbirations.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6WT5O/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Ground > Gym Mats (eva rubber) > Cork/Rubber Pads > Rig
Reading reviews that people were using it for airc compressors, AC units, generators, subwoofers, etc.
I run these under the feet on my s4 when necessary, they work really well.
never heard of point zero, looks like they are rebranded masters stuff. The paasche is known brand, quieter, but less powerful. If you plan on using the compressor for airbrushing you won't need it more powerful though.
Also, if you have a CO2 tank you should be prefilling the racking carboy. Get an air nozzle. Something like this.
I use an air compressor with an inline moisture trap and there has never been an issue. I've been doing this for 20 years and not once have I ever had a problem.
EDIT: If the compressor has this on it http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap-Filter/dp/B004KNAHE2 and you clean it properly, then you will NOT have any issues. I would stake my house on that.
A couple questions to consider:
I assume you're in the US because you linked to Amazon US. And because you came to the conclusion that you should get an Iwata or Badger.
Let me address the spray booth first. The main selling point and feature of the booths you linked on Amazon is portability. They're not that portable, but because they fold up they are more portable than something you might build out of a plastic storage bin and some fans. If you feel like you can build your own (there are lots of articles on the internet for this) that meets your (safety) requirements/desires for less than the portable spray booths online, than you might want to consider building your own. Otherwise, what you're paying for is the ability to fold it up and bring it on trips to group builds. Also keep in mind that these used to go for $60-70 USD and seem to be getting more expensive with time.
As for the airbrush, if you have the money and want stuff that works out of the box, then you should just get a kit. There are other vendors (Chicago Airbrush Supply off the top of my head) outside of Amazon that could potentially get you a better deal.
If you are a DIY person and potentially have need of power/air tools in the future, you might want to consider a mini shop compressor. This one by CA air tools is recommended by some people here because it's supposed to be pretty quiet while delivering pancake compressor pressures. The caveat is that you have to be comfortable with buying the right fittings/adapters to make the airbrush/hose work with the compressor.
If you don't have or aren't willing to spend money, then you can just go to Harbor Freight tools and get a compressor, hose, and accessories, then go to Hobby Lobby with a 40% coupon and buy an Iwata Neo or a Badger Patriot 105.
edit: Definitely agree with /u/Funakatown that you generally get what you pay for. If you're really into the hobby, investing in good tools from the beginning is totally worth it. These tools and skills are good not just for gunpla, but all plastic model/miniature hobbies, cosplay, and general DIY. On the flip side though, if you live in an apartment and you never know when you might be moving, or there just isn't much stability in your life now, it's understandable to not invest too much in. Especially since it might be hard to get your money back if you have to sell your stuff down the road because you can't take it all with you. Or you find that you hate airbrushing, which does happen to some people.
http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap-Filter/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1411683902&sr=1-2&keywords=airbrush+regulator
this
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Blow-Gun-Kit/dp/B000FVUO4G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1395584938&sr=8-7&keywords=air+blowgun
Man there is a lot to cover.
But to start, get a compressor with a reservoir so you can have extended paint sessions without overheating the pump. Something like this, Also some Dentist supply depot have oilless compressors with reservior ( the oiless part is very important for painting) that are really quiet but can get a bit expensive.
Get a good airbrush, you can find good quality airbrush in amazon but skip ANY of this type you won't get much out of those. This is a very good gravity fed airbrush.
Just pin the fan with something to keep it from spinning. Put a pen through it. As for the compressor itself you need to be careful with that. Compressors tend to condense moisture in the tanks. I keep mine stored with the drain valve open so anything that condenses in is during times it's not in use drains out. Even that isn't a sure thing though so before I even considered using it for a purpose like this I installed an oil/water separating filter in line to make sure any leftover moisture got filtered out. They are not expensive and a good thing to have as they protect your air tools from corrosion as well. A desiccant dryer works even better, but is a lot more expensive. Here is what I have on mine. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30252A-Water-Separator-Outlet/dp/B002GQ3SUA/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R9QATQYGZXACBZ21C5J9
[Something like this?] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065OYYQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k9ydAbZ6NZDVK)
I have this one (as well as a Krome) and aside from being a bit louder than I would like, but it does a great job. If you have amazon prime, it is even better; you'll save a ton on shipping
https://www.amazon.com/Active-Commercial-AAPA45L-Outlet-Liters/dp/B002JPRNOU
Love this thing
Fill with hot tap water and if you have an air compresses with an soft rubber tip to pump air into it till it pops back into place then close the spigot and let sit for a day or so.
Are there little rubber pads that it's sitting on at least?
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Anti-Vibration-Rubber-isolation/dp/B002IA0WPI
I've always used something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/CENTRAL-PNEUMATIC-Neighborhood-Corner-Store/dp/B01LWUJZQ4
With a with a blower
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-31112-Interchangeable-Nozzles-Over-Sized/dp/B000FVUO4G
Been using them for years in IT, makes quick work of dust bunnies.
>https://www.amazon.com/BE-PRESSURE-85-400-062-Undercarriage-Cleaner/dp/B0065OYYQQ
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https://www.reddit.com/r/teslamotors/comments/b7jqtk/how_to_wash_your_undercarriage_at_home/
Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.
These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.
For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.
or just automate the thing https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Automatic-Tank-Drain-Compressors/dp/B00273WV78
watch out tho, it'll scare the shit out of you when you least expect it to go off
An oil-free (diaphragm) compressor doesn't introduce oil. And the only water it would introduce is what's in the air to begin with. Generally the air will come out more dry than the water going in, because much of it condenses inside the compressor tank, lines, etc. as it cools.
And if you are concerned about oil or water (basically if you have a piston compressor), you can get devices to filter them both out — they are very common for people doing paint-gun work, where the oil would ruin the whole thing. The air won't be sterile or anything, but if it's good enough to paint with it probably won't contain a significant amount of oil.
If you're really concerned, though, companies sell filters that will take air from an industrial compressor, remove the oil and any air, run it through activated charcoal, and make it suitable for breathing in a supplied-air respirator. I've breathed air coming off an industrial rotary-vane compressor through something like this, and it was fine, not even any odor or anything. The filters are expensive, though, and it's probably overkill unless you're actually breathing it.
>where did you find that bucket lid? I've seen that sort of bucket all over the place on this subreddit, but never actually found out where to buy them, my bucket ended up being a full DIY.
I found them at a local garden center that carries some hydroponic equipment. I don't know where you're from but if I can find them where I am from I'm sure you can. You can always get them online too just search "6 inch net pot bucket lid"
>Any specific reason for putting the check valves at the air stones instead of at your pump or your splitter?
No, that's just how I did it. The check valve could go anywhere in the line really. My train of thought was just the less water that gets in the line the better, so I put it as close to the air stone as possible.
>Are you running 4 buckets in (R?)DWC? Whats the output/capacity of your oxygen pump?
I run 4 separate DWC buckets. My pump is a Hydro Farm AAPA45L
>would you say that your seedlings are stretching a bit or is that the natural length of them when starting them in rock wool cubes?
I've used different lights for seedling starting and I find they always seem to stretch like that, I combat it by planting the rock wool cube low in the net pot so I can build the clay pellets up around the stem as they grow. Unfortunately I must have been a bit too rough when I was moving the net pots into the buckets, or I dropped something but I broke the stem on GSC #1, the one that was in the pic. I found it with the stem bent past 90° with the leaves resting on the clay pellets. I propped it up with some toothpicks and hoping it'll pull through.
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Someone suggested a tool like this
https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-COMPRESSOR-INSTALLER-CONDITIONING-SERVICE/dp/B00P33H35E
You would need something like this
None of the AC clutches come off with a normal pulley puller or three-jaw puller (that I know of). They use a sleeve that threads into the center of the clutch, then a bolt that threads into the sleeve and bottoms on the arbor to push the assembly off.
I have one like this, too. It was inspired by DIY inflation but I haven't used caulk or anything permanent (yet).
The nipples I'm using don't entirely match up, so there is a bit of gapping depending on which way/order I stack them (turned inside-out or not, too).
Since I didn't fill them, they can collapse which reduces the holding power (depending on how much skin is between them).
Anyway, up until this week I have just had a catheter stuck in the end and used a binder clip to hold pressure (inflating by using my mouth). It works well enough but not when dressed (clothing pushes the catheter a bit which allows leakage). But it is lightweight and simple.
I had been envisioning your method for some time and decided to try it out. At first, I tried a Presta valve since there isn't a spring to push against and the inside pressure creates the seal. Well, the pressure I can create isn't enough to get the valve to seal well so it leaks. I have a valve stem so I tried that and it's much better.
I found out that inside-out or not matters due to the swirl ridges against the valve stem.
I am using a Schrader ball chuck on a quick connect and a hose (part of a catheter (the larger end that goes on a bag—perfect fit) and some random hose I stretched over the catheter). Side note: I don't think the hose needs to be special (food grade), just anything clean enough that I'm willing to put in my mouth. You can buy various size hoses by the foot at hardware stores.
Since I don't have caulk to support the nipple, it's easily deformed. When I put the ball chuck on, it needs pressure to both open the seal in it and push down the spring in the Schrader valve. I can't firmly hold the assembly because then there isn't a seal. Holding the valve stem is really difficult (normally, there is a tire/rim for resistance).
The ball chuck is heavier than I realized and with the hose, it's a fair bit to have in a pocket.
What do you recommend?
Is it ok to dust your pc with this?
https://www.amazon.in/Skil-8600-Air-Blower/dp/B00I9IBE7S/257-0458027-4955123?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&portal-device-attributes=desktop
You're looking for something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/
It's almost the same as mine.
do you have a compressor? I think it'd be pretty easy to rig it to go both directions, just have the tube open at both ends, and use one of these guys at each station to create a venturi effect kinda deal
Don't forget to get a moisture trap, something like this https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2 because compressing air wrings the humidity out of it, which can throw off the spray balance with acrylics. Other than that, any compressor will do, like most folks suggest. Depends on your tolerance for noise.
Long post incoming....
So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:
You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.
Those ratings are for fish tanks. You want as much air as possible. If you want to split an air pump between multiple buckets, get a more powerful one like this.