Best body repair collision repair sets according to redditors

You can actually buy lead substitute, which you put into your gas to help restore some of the lubrication / benefits that leaded gas provided. I'll let one of the more knowledgeable mechanics note whether or not it's actually useful or just snake oil.

Motor oil is better for frying tendies. High viscosity is the name of the game when it comes to matters of the ass kind. General purpose heavy industrial grease works best for me.

This should do the trick.

Apparently my Jeep uses the same bulb, and I found some in my toolbox: http://i.imgur.com/2T7Uoyo.jpg

Those pins look pretty easy to jury-rig something with wrapped wire, bullet terminals, or something...however, the 9006 socket is readily available: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84793-Headlight-Socket/dp/B001SGI7SM

That's just one example, there are some with fancier cables etc.

There are also various 12V dimmer modules.

For portable use, you can of course just use a 12V SLA or AGM battery, something small would be fine.

Here are some items of bad news. The bulb is halogen, so:

• My earlier advice about using a lower voltage for longevity is wrong. Halogen bulbs need to operate right around 12V, because the filament material will re-deposit at high enough temperatures. Running it at lower voltage may not allow this to happen, and the 12V dimmer modules may also reduce the average temperature and reduce the lifespan of the bulb.
  
• Halogen bulbs can be sensitive to oils on the glass, causing premature failure. Before powering it up, you will want thoroughly clean the glass with 99% rubbing alcohol, and transport it in something to protect getting dirty again.
  
• The total bulb lifetime will be ~1000 hours, so it will last that minus however many hours it was used before. I don't think there really is any way to keep it running for longer than that.
  
  Given the application, I think that it will be fine to just turn on from time to time when you need it. If the bulb looks clear and new, estimate that you have at least 500 hours of operation left. If the glass looks fogged or smoked, estimate 100-200 hours to be safe. Then decide how often you want to power it based on that.
  
  You can go to any auto store and get the same bulb (usually as a pair). Whatever solution you use, I would suggest picking some up to test your wiring first.

> is having the hose unplugged the same thing?

More or less. Disconnecting the air intake means no flow through the MAF. The computer takes that to mean that the sensor has failed and runs the default fuel maps.

You can try using something like CRC MAF Cleaner, but if the problem has gotten bad enough to cause stalling the MAF probably needs to be replaced.

You might like a Meg's product called something like "natural finish". I love 303, but this is better for applications where people want protection but hate the shine, such as dashboards

Edit: here ya go: Meguiar's G4116 Natural Shine Protectant - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bT19BbEV7FNJE

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-205378-Grip-Wrench-Adapter/dp/B000OQJH90

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-36272-Exhaust-Hanger/dp/B001AX65QO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474548727&sr=8-1&keywords=tail+pipe+hanger
They could fund the repair with empty pop bottle deposits.

The people over at /r/autodetailing will be the first to tell you not to use any Armor All products. Overall just very low quality products and damage, rather than preserve your vehicle. They dry out the dash and cause cracking.

Meguiars makes great automotive detailing products. Their Supreme Shine Protectant is significantly better than Armor All's and will not damage your dash. Spray it onto a Microfiber towel or cloth and apply to your dash. If you are looking for something less glossy and greasy, their Natural Shine Protectant is great too.

Avoid buying the wipe type products as they just aren't worth the money.

If you want to thoroughly clean your interior like a professional, try products like 303 Aerospace protectant and Einszett cockpit premium. These are products used by pros and many detailing enthusiasts at /r/autodetailing and in the detailing world.

Wiping with just a damp cloth will not do, as the sun will eventually crack up your dash; its only a matter of time. The protectant will preserve your dash for as long as possible and it wicks up dust while leaving a glossy, or matte finish.

Honestly, I don't think there is a huge difference between them. I would worry more about having the proper tool kit to be able to install them properly. You can either assemble this yourself or try to get a kit with everything needed. Here's what I bought but you can just go by Amazon reviews.

Google how to remove them on your specific vehicle. Follow a forum post or a YouTube video. Use non-marring panel tools for any prying that needs to be done. You can get them at auto parts stores, harbor freight, or Menards if you're in the US.

You can also buy replacement panel clips if you break any at your local auto parts store or from your dealerships parts counter.

I just cleaned em with some MAF Sensor Cleaner spray like this stuff here.

I saw a nice MPG improvement (~2mpg) from this, but changing my spark plugs (and properly gapping them) really was the biggest improvement.

I bought these but seems they’re out of stock from amazon since I paid $3.77 for it at the time.

Get a large piece of cardboard and use it under the car. It will hopefully catch any drops that occur. Get an oil pan with a spout.

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-5184-Black-Drain/dp/B00A7EU5CM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=oil+pan+with+spout&qid=1570706634&sr=8-2

Meguiar's G4116 Natural Shine Protectant - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Zwy5Cb04R6THK

I would buy this,

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP03-12-Volt-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B000ET9SAU/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980138&sr=1-12&keywords=slime+air+pump

and

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-2040-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET9SAA/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980761&sr=1-5&keywords=tire+plug+kit

In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.

Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Rubber-Cement-oz/dp/B003V9UU66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1448981382&sr=8-5&keywords=rubber+cement

Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.

That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Lengthened-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U

This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.


As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.

I would splurge for these nice jumper cables

http://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-Listed/dp/B00VHE76GE/ref=lp_15719941_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448981135&sr=1-1

That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.

I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.

I carry a Cruz Tools mid-sized kit (5 hex, two wrenches, a sparkplug wrench thing, a screwdriver with Philips and straight bits, zip ties, etc), an electric air compressor, and a tire plug kit. These all fit under my seat. I also have a good tire pressure guage, a flashlight, extra fuses, and a mini Leatherman in my fairing pockets.

After the low - side on a ride I was leading (not me) and given I ride in remote areas often (e.g. Gifford Pinchot National Forest), I'm adding a pretty hefty first aid kit this weekend, along with taking a wilderness first responder course very soon.

Yes, I'm over cautious. I would point out that every bit of my kit was used during last summer's riding, except for the plug kit, mostly in the service of others. I also prefer long touring in twistes to short rides.

EDIT: added links

Things to check for fuel economy -

• Your Tire pressure (I set mine at 36psi - COLD) - The ride is a little harsh but it helps with less rolling resistance.
  
  
• Your right foot - I know this may seem like common sense but "Jack rabbit" starts should be avoided and abrupt acceleration as well.
  
  
• Proper braking - Don't use the brakes if you can help it, leave a cushion of space between you and the car in front of you so you don't have to waste energy pressing on the gas again after slamming on your brakes.
  
  
• Maintenance (This is the big one) - Your 2.3L Duratec comes with a "Lifetime Air filter" unfortunately the whole air box will need to be replaced if your Focus has over 150K on it or the filter is clogged / dirty. CHECK YOUR FILTER MINDER WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. If it is bad it can cost 4-$500.00 to replace. I would suggest getting an intake system on ebay or amazon (K&N, AEM, etc.) and replacing the OEM air filter / box if the filter is clogged or dirty. It is substantially cheaper than the factory air box / filter combo if you need to replace it.
  
  
• Oil level / Type - be sure to run the recommended 5W-20 Synthetic or Synthetic blend oils ONLY and be sure it is at the "full" level on the dipstick. If you took it to a Jiffy lube, Walmart or any quick lube chances are they used a conventional 5w-30 and it WILL have an effect on fuel economy.
  
  
• Rear brakes (Some models of Foci have rear disc brakes, if you have a traction control button on the center console next to the e-brake you do not need to follow this step) Check that they are not dragging and adjust them if they are, check the E-brake to be sure that it is properly adjusted and not engaging the rear brakes as well.
  
  
• Spark plugs - Pull one out and look to see if they are in need of replacement, you can find a good guide to spark plug replacement HERE.
  
  
• /u/verbthatnoun suggested a MAF sensor from a bone yard, he's on to something here but you can clean the sensor and restore it's output if it is dirty. I wouldn't trust a MAF from a junkyard due to the environment they are typically in, also a low output MAF will cause a check engine light but only when it gets to a certain point.
  
  If I think of anything else I'll add it here.

You can buy a trunk mount. Or make your own. It’s basically a small platform that you set your wheel on.

Use this link: for some reason I couldn’t post it...

Ferocious Onewheel Car Trunk Stand (One Wheel +XR/Plus/Pint Accessory Holder Base) - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N5LLH29/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iPnCDbNKV36J1

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

I think that kit looks great. Literally the only thing I would add for your first detail is some dressing just to make your interior/tires pop. You can pick up some Meguairs Natural Shine for like $4. http://amzn.com/B0009IQXCC It doesn't say it can be used on tires, but it works on them the same as 303 Aerospace, which is another popular choice around here.

I had a similar issue with my 2010 lancer.

my car would idle low & struggle to stay on.

It died twice while I was reverse parking.

I cleaned the mass air flow sensor with this but its too early to tell if that did anything.

Also found this video, hope it helps.

Judging from just those couple photos, it looks like the whole front of the car is pushed in, especially on the driver side. If you (OP) don't have a plan for pulling it back out, you should plan on scrapping it.

You can try to reshape it using a hydraulic ram. If that works, make sure it still starts and runs. If it starts, then you can track down a radiator, body panels, and lights (and whatever else is busted). It's a fairly popular car. So, getting used/scrap parts shouldn't be too difficult.

This one here with an integrated spout/pipe really pays for itself
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7EU5CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At the grocery store they sell 2 gallon water bottle with an integrated nozzle. I use those for other fluids, such as coolantm, transmission and brake fluid.

I'm going to guess you have never tested it before. Sometimes if they rust up inside you can't get them back together.

They are $8.76 on Amazon.

From the looks of yours, I wouldn't bother putting it back on, just replace it. You darn sure don't want it to fail if you need it

You can try to fill and patch both inside and put with a fiberglass resin like they make skin on frames or with boat making in general. The fiberglass acts similar to the plastic and the resin will fill the crack and adhere to the fiberglass to hold in place. Light sanding especially around the edges will help with it not catching on things. If you really want to use plastic though, you can sand the inside and out then apply the plastic, but i haven't had luck with it since it doesn't seem to seep into the crack like resin does.

Source: fixed hairline cracks and pin holes in kayaks.
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Fiberglass-Cloth-Resin-Repair/dp/B003KT5LZM
Something like this should do. You can also piece meal a kit from several sources, but this just happens to be all in one. It will last awhile with proper storage.

Those IATs don't sound that far out of line. 130°F to 150°F is pretty common after it's been parked a bit, or in stop and go traffic. When running 10 miles or more at highway speed, it should drop down and approach outside air temperature. The only "outlier" in your list is at startup in the morning. IAT should be very close to outside air temperature if the thing has been sitting overnight.

If your fuel trims are running consitently negative, you might want to clean the wire in the MAF sensor. Use MAF sensor cleaner on that. Spray it on the wire pretty heavily. Let the stuff drip off. Any that remains should fully dry (only takes a few minutes) before you apply power to the MAF. If you have to wipe off any that drips off and puddles in the housing, use a paper towel or clean rag and don't touch the "hot wire" in the sensor. There's a special cleaner for this part. I use CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner. amzn.com/B000J19XSA/ is one source, but it's available locally at most FLAPSs.

The PCM uses engine coolant temperature and intake air temperatures combined when determining mixture maps. The weighting to each depends on throttle position. Below about 20% throttle opening, it's weighted 100% to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature is ignored. Above 80% throttle opening, it's weighted 100% to intake air temperature and coolant temperature is ignored. In between, its a sliding scale, the wider the throttle opening, the more IAT is weighted and the less ECT is weighted in the calculations.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05347-Rubberized-Spray-Undercoating/dp/B000M8PZ96

Get any keyboard, pop off the keys, tape over the holes, spray liberally where the key 'caps' would make contact with the keyboard tray. Done.

PM your address so I can bill you for my professional consulting services. :)

Here's the OTC doodad:
https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-205378-Grip-Wrench-Adapter/dp/B000OQJH90

And here is the other hoohah rattler:
https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Puller-Locking-Pliers-Bodywork/dp/B01LBOWYH0

Sorry for not linking properly, on my phone and have no clue how to actually Reddit. :/

Check and clean your MAF. Don't spray random crap in there, get the proper stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B00BPMCJKQ

Use this BadBoy Worked great on wife bumper skin and my cracked dash.

Probably not a problem. You may need a small adapter hose to go from the nipple on the new PCV elbow to the current hose. Something like Dorman 47128: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47128-DORMAN-PCV-Hose/dp/B00GHSDJCA/

Can I use Meguiar’s Wash and Wax anywhere as an alternative to Ammo Hydrate?

Which is a better option in terms of cost and performance, Meguiar's D110 or CarPro Reset? Meguiar's Hyper Dressing or Optimum Opti-Bond?

Is Meguiar's Natural Protectant Shine a good alternative to 303 Aerospace Protectant for now since I have a full bottle of it unused.

Excellent choice. I've been a Mazda fan for years.

Along with the other things mentioned, check the undercarriage for rust, which seems to be the biggest complaint about this car.

A spray-on undercoating can keep it from rusting further, and will also help with road noise (note: this is not the snake-oil undercoating that dealers try to add for markup; I've used this stuff in the past with great results).

Best bet: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA

Dries faster than rubbing alcohol, safe to plastics and cleans thoroughly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLnDxM4O_eg

For the rough idle, clean the mass airflow sensor. This fixed it every time: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=maf+cleaner&qid=1549668234&sr=8-1

​

I would recommend cleaning the maf sensor with a maf specific cleaner

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_y0SHwbC48FV82 this is the one product I would recommend

Aaaaaand I never knew about the putty. Is this the kind of stuff you're talking about? would've saved me a couple hours of headache if I had know that's actually accepted :P

Just get this and a couple self tapping screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-36272-Exhaust-Hanger/dp/B001AX65QO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N7140D3H724XJRVD1ZVH

The reason I mention paste is that it deals with the temps, which I don't think JB weld would do. I've used something like this before with good success: Muffler Paste

It goes on like a paste, and cooks on there. Probably two years and counting for me. Notice JB weld makes a similar product at the bottom of the page too.

I'm still experimenting with different lubricants and cleaning sprays but the best so far:

1. No spray cleaning or lubricant works as well as taking it apart, completely cleaning it and lubricating it. Dust gums up oil. If you can afford to pay a professional to clean and service your typewriter, do so, the difference in the action of the keys is phenomenal.
   
   
2. I bought a Super Silent with sticky keys off E-bay and fixed it with these two products. Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, and Dry Lube. Use the spray cleaner to clean out as much gunk as you can and the the spray lube to get things slippery again. (It takes a couple of sprayings combined with moving everything you want lubricated.)
   
   Dry Lube is spray Teflon that does not attract dust. This solution worked but does not completely clean out all the dust or make the action like new.
   
   I am presently disassembling my Super Silent and after properly cleaning it, I will experiment with various oils, PTFE(Teflon), and wax/ceramic lubricants and compare how they affect the action of the keys.
   
   For all parts other than the keys I am already convinced that dry lube is a better solution than any oil because not only doesn't it attract dust but you can blow out any dust with compressed air.
   
   
   
   

Genuine Gm Colorado Canyon Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIXE6QA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share