Best car audio & video mono amplifiers according to redditors
We found 335 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video mono amplifiers. We ranked the 99 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 335 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video mono amplifiers. We ranked the 99 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I'm gonna need a link because I can't find it
EDIT: found it
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-Amplier-Shelf-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
It looks like it may be the topping acrylic shelf, people use it with the Schiit stack.
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WZ8XBbSDEN6DV
I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6
500watts for about 130 USD
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
Rule of thumb, you get what you pay for and if it’s too good to be true it probably is.
Example boss claiming 1100 watts for $44.99 when others are selling 1000 watts for $180 or 1200 watt for $330 should be a big red flag that something isn’t right with that boss. That’s not to say you can’t get a deal on an amp that’s worth a damn or that you need to pay extra for a name it’s just an example that some things are to good to be true. That “1200 watt” boss amp would be lucky to make 400 watts on a good day.
It’s this stand for Topping amps but fits Schiit perfectly as well!
And thanks for the kind words!
$500 nets you an entry level system, even less if you're not installing yourself. My suggestion is to get a new radio + sub + amp. A new single din radio with usb option runs $80-130 depending on the brand (pioneer and kenwood are my favorites). A new radio with EQ adjustment should allow you to tune your stock system to where the highs arent nearly as harsh. The next thing is a subwoofer (plus the enclosure) and the amp (plus the wiring). Lets start small with an 8" sub in a ported box. An alpine type r 8" is around $100 and a ported box to go with it like this is $70. An amp to power the sub adequately could be a rockford prime monoblock which runs close to $130. An an amp kit to wrap it all up could be the Soundqubed CCA 1/0 amp kit for $60.
Total so far is $490 on equipment, and that isn't including the dash kit and wire harness for your car (which im completely guessing is anywhere from $60-100).
what a fucking joke. so long as the amp is stable at what ever load your doing it doe snot matter what its labled as (mono, or what ever the fuck). you can buy a 1ohm stable rockford prime @ 500W or a 4ohm stable monoblock rated at 500W. you could also buy a 2ohm stable 1000W amp and run the subs at 4ohm. OR you could buy a 2 channel amp rated at 250W@2ohm out of each channle.... god there are so may ways to do that and you run such little power that... god dman...
i run 2 4,000W subs at 2ohm each just to give you an idea.
id go wtih this amp, not to expensive and 1 ohm stable: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500X1bd-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HZ7E
$140 subs
$95 Box
$115 amp
$60 amp kit
You didn't give a budget, so I went with something middle of the road, high value setup. Walmart is an authorized retailer of Pioneer, so you get a warranty. Cranked up, it will drown out your stock speakers... but you can turn it down to suit your situation.
If you are looking for something that will blend in with a stock system and have no plans on upgrading everything else.... swap the subs, amp, and wire kit out like so.
There's also an acrylic rack for that stack too: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/
The Schitt stack also fits in this rack as well as the JDS Atom amp.
Have you looked into alpine type r's? You can pick up a 12 for around 150.
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK/ref=sr_1_1?s
That's a D4 but you can pickup a D2 as well. Have you thought about that route or not? Or are you waiting on an amp first?
The alpine type r 12's can handle around 1000 watts rms each so I suggest getting an amp at around that or a little bit higher. Take the ohms into account though.
The cheapest suggestion I could make would be to get an alpine type r 12. something like a hifonics brutus amp or if you want to get one of the best at about double the cost--still under 300... http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY
With the money left over talk to some shops near you to see if any build custom boxes--if you can't. With them building it you can probably get by with a decent mdf box for about 150, a good one for around 200. Add in styling/fiberglass it will inch up to around 400+. At least in my area, yours may be a bit different.
Whichever sub/setup you choose just don't skimp on the box it may not seem like it would matter that much but it does.
As for the previous advice on not buying a prefab box? I would agree in most scenarios, but it's not an absolute. A pre-fab box that's cheap, and just a general box? Yeah don't even think about those. If you can find one that's made for the sub you want, and it's made out of decent material? Then yeah check it out.
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I've been using the alpine 9887 head unit in my 06 and it's great, I really like the interface and IPod option. I upgraded the sound bar speakers to 6.5" kickers, $50 at best buy. And also upgraded the oval 6x4 speakers in the dash panel near the knees to 5.25" speakers with a bracket I found on Amazon
As for the sub I also had a fear of it getting stolen, so I built a box for it to put in the center console. I bought a 10" shallow sub and it fits perfectly, and hits pretty hard. I mounted the amp under the steering column, to go for the, out of sight out of mind idea. All the wires are hidden, and unless you know what you're looking for, you couldn't even tell anything was there.
Dash speaker brackets
10" shallow sub
Amp used, mounted under column
Write up used for mounting amp
Write up used for sub box
I followed the box guide almost exactly, but I cut a larger diameter hole since I used a 10" and he used an 8"
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX
Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD
First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.
Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.
Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.
So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:
And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.
Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6
I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467
Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.
Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.
Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.
I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...
My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.
This is a great amp for the price, then if you want to get another sub in the future you will have the extra power on hand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495122194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=300x2+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51m3QK2fvWL&ref=plSrch
It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.
Stock alt. Big 3 the voltage has always sit at 14.9-15.2 depending on temperature.
Focal 8 inch components
Sony 4 channel bridged to 2
pioneer 9601
Hoping to upgrade to a pioneer 80prs head unit soon. Maybe the pioneer 8604 for the doors as well. Getting away from a ab amp for the doors would be more efficient.
EDIT: Capacitor Bank
The regulator on this alt/car is extremely slow this drastically help stabilize my voltage. Used to it would drop to 13.8 which isn’t bad but when the Bass note would stop it would spike to 15.7 which I didn’t like at all. Now when the bass note stops it will dump excess current into the capacitors instead of spiking.
Also I do not listen to sine wave type music.
I think /u/For_Something answered everything about box building. Ported boxes must be built around the T/S parameters of the sub woofer. If you get a Type S, you should go for ported. It would be very simple to build a box for it and it would sound much better than that prefab you have on your list.
Most people buy their head unit from Crutchfield because they bundle all the install parts and vehicle specific instructions for (usually) a good price. You might consider that. Buying all the install parts separate with Amazon could cost more.
>Do you know if the amplifier works for the sub and components?
I wouldn't buy a four channel amp to run components and a sub. You'd only be giving your sub about 150 watts RMS, and it can handle 500 watts RMS. Get a mono sub amp with a sub sonic filter, and a 2 channel amp for the fronts. Here's a Skar amp as an example. Here's a nice US Acoustics 2 channel for the fronts. You can really go with anything though; I'd just try and get closer to the RMS of your speakers. 75x2 at 4 ohms for the fronts, 500x1 at 2 ohms for the sub. Alpine, Rockford, Pioneer, PPI, Skar, Zapco, Kicker all make amps that would work. Just stay away from Boss or anything remotely like Boss.
How about this one?
Kenwood KAC-M3001 600W Class D Monoblock Compact Digital Car/ATV/Marine Certified Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U80FUHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SxtRAb8MTP4DA
Back on Amazon found mine on eBay here's the Amazon link.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_26SCDbCBPXX50
I'd honestly stick with a JL amp.
Here's a 1000w JL amp for <$250
JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LMCZMY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TjsEub1YS5CB1
This amp is 259 and will power it well I have one pushing my 10" jl w7. http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
> boss r1000m
My bad, it's actually this one: Boss R1100M
I thought it was 1000+ reviews but its 700. Still though, all those people actually believe they're getting the bargain of the century.
I don't blame Boss though. They're doing a very good job of getting people to buy their stuff, and although we all rip them on this subreddit, we're not their target audience. Their target is high schoolers and people that shop at Walmart that are going to be happy with their purchase because they have "2000W" sound systems and can show off to their friends and what-not.
But it's when they try to sell that crap on Craigslist that always gets me. "2000W Bose 2 12" Competition Subwoofer in Bandpass Box, $300"
With a tiny $50 dollar Boss amp, 2 Boss subs and one of those disgusting prefab "bandpass" boxes with the 'Dual' or 'Pyle' subs in them and have blue LEDs inside.
/rant
You should be able to use most usb dacs, heres an article to help you pick. If you are planning on taking out the old head unit you will also need an amp to drive the speakers, any auto amp that matches your speakers should be fine. If you are going for 4 speakers this one should be ok.
edit: after looking at the reviews of that amp, this one might be a better choice. Neither of these have enough power to drive a woofer, if you were going to add one.
As /u/xTHANATOPSISX said, because you have a dual 2 ohm sub, you'll want to wire it to 1 ohm for the least money.
I would highly recommend the Rockford R1200X1D mono amp. Unfortunately, it's a little over your budget, but can be found for around $250.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
I think you should consider this amp then: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=psdc_10980751_t1_B004T166L8
it's $40 more, but worth the capabilities. Also, if you choose this amp, go with a Dual 4 ohm Type R sub.
Reason: One sub is great, you're going to feel some awesome bass in a tahoe, but I also know what it's like to be itching for that next-level of bass.
So, If you decided that you wanted more bass, just buy the exact same sub and box, or upgrade to a dual box, and just attached that to the amp.
The amp can handle as low as 1 ohm of stability. It does 1200w @1 ohm.
But with 1 sub, you will be putting out around 800w @ 2 ohms. 800 Watts is more than enough to push one of those subs.
But if you chose to add a sub down the line, it would bring the impedance to 1 ohm, putting out the full 1200 watts, but it will be split between the 2 subs, so each sub will get about 600 watts. (not in the danger zone for this sub for too-little-power) But with the extra sub, you will be increasing your surface area.
So, even if you changed your mind on going from 1 sub, to 2, you are only limited by purchasing another sub and box.
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
It could be and hopefully is in protect mode. Didn't know that existed. I have two RF Punch P3D4 12"'s running at 4OHMs off of the amp. The wiring kit is 8 gauge.
[Amp](Rockford Fosgate Prime 1,200-Watt Class-D 1-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kmEHub1A5FR89).
I may have gotten the bass knob that sits in the front of my car wet, and the light for it wasn't blue like it normally was, but instead just off. The subs actually worked for a second while I was going down the road before I realized the subs weren't working. They kicked in and then I realized that they weren't working and quickly turned the radio off, but couldn't disconnect the wire because I was on the way to work. I drove the car again later during work to get food with the radio off again, and after work I disconnected the power cable. I haven't tried the amp again since then, and that was Saturday afternoon.
What should I do to troubleshoot this? I don't want to turn it on again for fear that I ruin the subs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=4134ADBa8vL&amp;ref=plSrch
I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&amp;ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.
For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51hYLJphMpL&amp;ref=plSrch
The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&amp;ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&amp;ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.
Hit me up with any questions
Had her for over two years running 1 ohm with ZERO issues.
If you don't mind spending $100 for an amp ... get one like this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487092657&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=alpine+amp
https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487092715&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=clarion+xc1410
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY
Those are all so small you can mount them behind the dash, which means you can just hook it right into the factory wire harness speaker leads.
Yeah, you got it. I have two RP3's, one running the Plex media server, with an external 512GB SSD, and the other running RasPlex. They are connected together via the LAN cable. I then have an HDMI-to-RCA adapter. I will run the RCAs to the aux input in my Honda Odyssey minivan. That allows me set that as a source for the rear TV. I also have a nice little Lenovo remote control that the kids can use to navigate.
Since the RP3's also have wifi, I am going to setup Rsync to check for new content from my main media PC in the house and download anything new while connected to the wifi (typically when I am loading the kids into the van, takes waaay too long).
The last piece of the puzzle was enabling it to turn on and off with the ignition, but also do a controlled shutdown so as not to corrupt the SD cards.
I'll be taking pics when I get it all together.
This little beast will push 400 watts and it's super small. I'm running the two channel on a cooler right now and it pounds.
If you can, find someone that sells Hybrid gear and take a demo of the imagine, unity and clarus lines (it's my favorite sound atm).
While there, demo with and without a solid 4ch amp. It looks like without jbl, it's a fairly basic affair to swap speakers out.
I do agree that without an amp, your sound upgrade won't be great as that factory deck might put out about 10w a channel rms. I was actually torn on whether to just recommend trying a micro amp first or go all in. I decided to go all in, so this would be what I'd spend $1000 on:
HAT Unity 6.5 comp $430
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 $160
at least front door sound treatment $60
So that's $650 and leaves you room for install labor plus a small amp kit for power/ground. That should be a solid set up with good midbass and a fair amount of musical accuracy, too. Heck, you could step up to the clarus line (I prefer that of the three mentioned) and only be at $850
I'm not talking about the cabling. I want to know how i will get the signal coming out of the port on the source device to provide the necessary power levels to run the high and mid range speakers. I'm thinking i will need some sort of general amplifier, the one I use for my subs only does the low sounds, right?
Edit: Something like this
I think he may mean in addition to the n7, not necessarily instead of.
I personally think you may be able to make this work. Ive always wanted to do it also, but there have been a few things stopping me.
Also, ive had that small clarion amp before. Ive also had the Alpine version and i currently have a small RF amp (or 4Ch version) I think the RF is by far the best amp out of the three. I have the 2ch version running my fronts, and it has been great for over 2 years now. Easily worth the extra money.
Edit: Also, i havent tried one yet, but these tiny amps are supposed to be cool too... if you can find one:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html
how would this amp work? a bit less expensive but still overrated on power for my sub. Rated at 750 Watts rms at 1 ohm.
Thanks for the quick reply. Told him he will need a better box.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463443730&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+750+rms
Is that the amp you speak of? $210 on amazon.
Also what wiring kit? I see many posted here and I don't know which would be best for his specific setup.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/
i would go straight for rockford with one of these but you could also grab a hifonics unit and be okay
ok good, its a fine subwoofer in the right box (make your own, dont buy one) but get the d2 and wire it like this
And for an amp under $200 to power it, really I would say the Twisted Sounds 1k, but its a bit over your budget, but wonderful amp. OR, here is one right on 200 that does 750rms
that amp is just over rated ... its the same as the soundstream picasso nano, and the precision power ion series
good on a budget
This RF amp will power one of those subs just fine. Wire your sub like this
I got a pair of these. Super cheap but surprisingly good. Originally intended to be temporary while I repaired the old ones, but after the break in I think they sound better than the old expensive ones.
Both in a ported box aimed up, pushed by this amp.
This is a somewhat subjective question, so I will give my opinion.
Hear it yes... feel it... meh not really. Don't have too high of expectations.
If your sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil this amp would be a good choice for optimal performance: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX8U?keywords=rockford%20fosgate%20250&amp;qid=1452789936&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
600 watt RMS amplifiers aren't as common, so they're usually a bit more expensive. The sweet spot for amplifiers in term of prices is 500 watts RMS (for entry level systems), so you'll be able to use your system at its loudest without worrying about frying your subwoofers, but your amplifier will run hot, since it will be at full power most of the time. Usually reputable amplifiers will be able to handle it though.
Here are two suggestions for 500 watts RMS:
Alpine MRV-M500
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D
Most people would rather overcompensate when it comes to the amplifier, so alternatively you could step down the power of the subs and go with two of these, and run your amplifier much cooler with the gain turned down a bit, which will prolong its life.
Basically it comes down these 3 options:
Personally, I had the WXv2 subwoofers for 4 years, and they worked great. Plus, they're meant for sealed enclosures, and the W0v3s are meant for ported enclosures. Ultimately, it's your choice though! Hope I was of some help, and enjoy the system!
So quick question, I'm still learning all the math behind car audio and want to make sure I understand what amp I need to get. If I got an amp like this and wired it according to Rockfords website, on the 4Ohm P3 it would get 500W?
$500 or under will be nearly impossible for a system with a headunit with built in navigation unless you go with used gear.
This is what I'd go with on a budget of $1,000.
Headunit $650
Box $135
Sub $73
Amp $115
Total is $973. It should end up a little over $1,000 after you buy your wiring harness and wiring kit, and I'm not sure if you need an expensive dash kit for that car. The new headunit should improve the sound of your stock speakers by giving you a lot more eq options so you can shape the sound to your liking. I added the sub because bass is usually what causes distortion in stock speakers, so with a sub you can change your crossovers on your headunit so your speakers only play your mids and highs and the sub handles your lows, which should also help to clean up the sound.
If you're not set on navigation though I'd suggest you get a different headunit. You can get a unit with comparable features minus navigation for half the price. I normally listen to my music from my phone with bluetooth and google maps just plays through the speakers telling me where to turn. Works really well for me since my unit doesn't have nav.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
I'm unfamiliar with those ones. If you take one out and take a picture of the back with the magnet, it should have a model number and impedance. We can go from there. Otherwise I'd say something like a Rockford R500-1. Can't know for sure, though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=aw_d_img_back_car?qid=1370818771&amp;amp;amp;sr=8-2
Don't believe any of amazon's specs on this, it's 500w at 2ohm and 250w at 4ohm according to Rockford's website.
Also, if all you want is Aux and sub pre outs on the radio, get a Pioneer DEH-150MP. $60 at Best buy.
I have these Rockfords, with this amp. I love it, no complaints.
Thanks for the advice it was helpful. These are my speakers, my 4 channel amp, my one channel amp, and I'm going to install a 12" kicker subwoofer in a factory box.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00YQ674D0&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1ZCHPV8EK9A6VJT7C757
Would probably also do the job
You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.
And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.
This one?
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500X1bd-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HZ7E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371497589&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+p500
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19556_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P500-1BD.html?utm_source=nextag_cse&amp;utm_medium=CSE&amp;utm_campaign=sidecar&amp;scpid=9&amp;scid=scsho3601024
500w RMS at one ohm. You can get any 1 ohm single voice coil, or 0.5 or 2 ohm dual voice coil, then wire them for 1 ohm.
Get Polk db series 6x9 and Pioneer GMsub amp. For 5" (I assume up front) see if these Polk db components would fit.
The Polks are very loud and I'd recommend as much sub as you can muster to match their output. I have the db6501 6.5" components fed by a bridged 4ch amp (~200 watts/ch) and they're nearly ear-killing w/o distoring. My 12" sub in a sealed box can barely keep up, a large ported box or even 2 subs would be suggested.
1200 at 1 ohm does the job for me at a little more than your budget https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cIXfvb1CMFT35
It will have a soft top sometimes: http://i.imgur.com/AubeK0E.jpg
Which sub would you recommend? I would like to stick in the 8-10" range and have it be somewhat compact. Those plates will fit in the factory location.
I had a friend suggest this setup:
Kicker 41KM42CW 4" 2-way Marine Speakers
Kicker 41KMW104LC 10" 150 Watt RMS 4-Ohm Marine/Boat LED Subwoofer Sub KM10
Kenwood KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Power Amplifier Conformal Coated 400W Max Power KACM3001
Would that setup work better? I don't need phenomenal sound, I just need some tunes for trails and when I drive this thing around. Could I swap in this sub instead (I don't need the fancy LEDs and stuff): Kicker 11 KM10 10" Marine Subwoofer
It's a Topping Dac/Amp shelf. It's not specifically for a Schiit stack but fits almost perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)
So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended
[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea
[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95
Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95
And
12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea
JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498
Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.
This is well more than enough amp for the speaker you want to push.
Here Is a lower priced option that falls smack in them middle of the power suggested by JL.
So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536015841&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=car+amplifier&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Yeah my Jeep puddles up pretty good near the front which worries me and I will keep all that in mind. For reference purposes the subs and amp that I bought are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Package-Wrangler-Kicker-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00KJ0ZI4O
http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538114641&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=amp+car
I'm using that amp, and I forgot the name of the sub im using.
Here you go. I think it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-BV9757B-Double-DIN-Motorized-Touchscreen/dp/B00HZA6E6W
And here are the cheapo amps I think im gonna get.
https://www.amazon.com/EV4-400-EVOLUTION-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLEE4/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487419851&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=4+channel+amp
and
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487446228&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=monoblock+amp&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-5500
Online reviews are useless. You dont know the background of the reviewer. Might be the only sub he has ever heard. Also people can get paid for their reviews.
Probably the worst amp you can buy and has 4 stars.
I'm just wondering out of curiosity... Can Amazon reviews not be trusted? There are barely any negative reviews about the Boss amplifier
I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Equalizer:26$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&amp;smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839
2 speakers: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Amp: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Wiring: 16$
Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
I see what you mean. Pretty sure the same input blocks in that amp are the same ones in this cheap ass boss amp. Going to order it, see if it works, and ship it back if it doesn't.
so, i found this
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1004-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S50ZDA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481038461&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=amplifier
400 W MAX Power, 4 Channel 75 W X 4 RMS @ 2 ohm 38 W X 4 RMS @ 4 ohm
issues, may need to strip a power cord to get power to it. also apprently its loud in peoples cars? idk if we'd hear its whine but it might work.
i'm still looking around.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S50ZDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_107?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479690245&amp;sr=8-107&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=4+channel+amp.
This will be easy to connect.
I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used
BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE
My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so
Hope this helps a little
Would this be any good if I hooked both wire pairs up to the output terminals?
What about this? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&amp;coliid=I1KKMV8MRSQ3OF
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Alpine-SWT-10S4-10-1000w-Shallow-Car-Subwoofer-Slim-Sub-Enclosure-Box-/391626991923?hash=item5b2ec9a933:g:QBcAAOSwiDFYL0Co&amp;vxp=mtr
I like the 18.25" x 5.5" x 14.25" Sub enclosure. Its a little $$ at $285.75. I am okay with the Width and length but the height is a problem I am having because it cannot exceed 8inches or I wont have room. If you know a better deal, please please please tell me.
I searched moboblock amp and [this popped up, which looks great for your situation
BOSS Audio AR1500M Armor 1500 Watt, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Monoblock, Mosfet Car Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Control
Edit: I'm in elbow deep now. Can I have a better picture of the back of the subwoofer or a list of everything it says?
Should any of these be an option:
MRP-M500 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS
MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS
Boss AR1500M ARMOR 1,500-Watt Mono
That boss one is retarded cheap, which has me suspicious, but it says 750w RMS.
Helpz?
Noob here, I'm sorry.
I have a 500 watt max, 250watt nom. Sub that was given to me and I don't know what amp to use that won't break it.
My speaker and specs:
https://imgur.com/gallery/T87zK
I was thinking one of these amps to power it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1LRPIR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hjsNzbN5JYXRY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cksNzbB6PD951
Are either appropriate for the sub?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S55ES6/ref=mh_s9_acsd_zgift_b3ldk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-8&amp;pf_rd_r=QW97C20Y02N2X74TC67K&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=1c7c97da-4ad5-5959-8d0b-1ccd0897ce0d&amp;pf_rd_i=898116&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LmE6xbKXHW2GV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IvE6xbV8VMN6B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3VMT42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VwE6xb45EYG7S
Thanks for the advice. Would it be better to get a better amp?
My friend suggested the https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975277&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+prime
or
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M1200-Monoblock-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B01K8F1168/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975317&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=alpine+mrv-1200
I'm not sure if the m500 is sufficient
I recommend the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D. Underrated 1200 watts (closer to 1400 watts) for $260.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
RF 1200.1
Wolfram W-1500.1
Kicker 1200
Soundqubed 1250
Of these my choice would be the Wolfram.
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
I had it professionally installed but they had it done pretty fast and didn't complain too much about the install. As far as how hard does it hit, I have a RF 800x1 amp (at 2 ohms) running to it and it hits really nicely down into I'd say 50hz or a little lower. About half the time I run it by itself and half the time I throw in a RF 12" in bandpass that is ported realllly low and that hits really nice down into the 30hz range or lower (and the amp does about 1200w into this 1 ohm load). I think it really depends on the type of music you listen to. If you listen to a lot of rock or jazz or 4-4 edm like trance or house the 10" JL is great by itself. If you are really a bass head and listen to a lot of dnb or hip hop or old school "bass" music like I do and really want to pound, it might not quite be low enough or loud enough. But I do think it's probably the loudest single 10 on the market, or close, and the advantage of the single 10 in the front is the back seats can fold down for camping. If you put enough watts to it it really is an insane amount of bass for so little airspace. But yea, half the time I augment it with a 12" in a bandpass with one of the two ports blocked so it's tuned lower (as weird as all of this sounds) to really fill in that rumble.
edit: PS for the element I ended up installing 6.5" RF separates with the tweeters surface mounted. This pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IB8RD0/ very loud and the tweeters can be angle mounted. I'll post a pic of the angle mounted tweeters when I get a chance, one of the best setups I've heard in a vehicle.
edit2: Rockford fosgate tweeter surface mount in Honda Element https://i.imgur.com/Zc7ejwt.jpg
Thanks for the reply. I'm just going to swap my amp out for this one and wire down to 1 ohm.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-1500-1d
I like Skar audio so that's my first choice.
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sae-1000-v2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502736001&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fosgate+amp
https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/t-series-amplifiers/products/t-1500-1d
I'll add more in a minute.
Twisted sounds capable of 1200wrms
https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/twisted-sounds-ts1k-1000w-monoblock-bass-amplifier
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html
Can't find a link but Digital Designs has an amp that's in that price range and does around 1500rms
I know I'm missing some but your have MANY great choices.
Either this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524367389&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+r750-1d
or this http://www.down4soundshop.com/skar-audio-rp-800-1d-monoblock-amplifier/
The SQ amp is $210, but I found a Rockford Prime 750 on Amazon for $192 (every little bit helps).
I also found an ATrend enclosure with identical specs to the one recommended on the SQ website for $65 instead of $141, HERE.
What do you think?
EDIT: I added some more amps to my OP.
SEE EDIT
Original comment:
That amp only puts out 1000watts "MAX" which means the RMS value could be anywhere from 400-500watts. The GM-D8601 Actually puts out more real watts. I suggest neither of those amps... and go with a Rockford because it does have a subsonic filter.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494536780&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+750
It's more money, but it is much higher quality.
EDIT: I'm incorrect disregard the above.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8
This one would give the best sound for both?
So after looking over the suggestions I threw together my version of the system.
Head Unit
Front Speakers
Rear Speakers
4 Channel Amp
Sub
Sub Amp
Now I just need to figure out what RCA's to get and what sound dampener to get.
I found the other amp you recommend before the PPI for $170 on Amazon sold by woofersetc would you recommend that over the American bass?
https://www.amazon.com/P1000-1-Precision-Power-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B005KW10ES
TIL, thanks again.
So would the black ice ppi model that I linked work as well? It's like 10 bucks more but seems to have better reviews on various sites and is 900w rms at 2 ohm vs 600w rms on the one you linked. I obviously only need 600, but is it totally useless to spend the extra 10 bucks for the extra power just to be safe?Edit: didn't see that you said the black ice is actually the lower tier amp, sure wouldn't have guessed that lol so is this one a higher tier than the i1000.1 you linked? I'm willing to spend an extra 20-30 bucks if it is.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2WXU
bridged 300@4 and about 135 at ebay
Sundown subwoofers don't like sealed boxes. That is to say they perform a hell of a lot better when ported. What made you go with this particular sub and amp combo? Most people who run Sundown run ported boxes built to spec. Check out a couple car audio forums to see how others do it.
You can run a LOC off of your rear speakers as long as you plan on leaving them hooked up. Otherwise tap into your front speakers and use a quality, shielded, RCA cable, you won't have any loss in signal at all. In regards to an amp there are a bunch you can check out depending on your budget. I like this little guy http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B007AQ2WXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369712891&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pbr300x2#productDetails If you want to put it under a seat. Honestly you could get a normal size amp and just put it in the truck with your subwoofer amp and do a clean wiring job though
https://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-PN1-650D-Monoblock-Picasso-Amplifier/dp/B008L117RK
I used this to power my subwoofer when I had a car.
I hope I'm not too late to suggest this amp over that sound ordinance. Kid you not man, this little Soundstream is fantastic, and for the price its even better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L117RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1394119237&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr2&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462994649&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+r250
This amp
That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII
This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.
Head unit is good.
I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.
Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW
This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.
You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.
So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.
Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.
> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.
>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.
>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.
>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:
> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
> Amp kit. ~ $33
>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.
and
>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.
>Here is some that fit your truck;
>Head Unit
>Door SPeakers
>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.
>Total of about $220.
I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?
This is the amp I ordered and this is the sub. Since I first made this post, I was able to switch my order to get the 4Ω DVC version of the same sub. Now both will be running at 250W RMS, so it should all work out fine.
Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.
Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.
Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:
Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468928854&amp;sr=8-48&amp;keywords=3+channel+amplifier
Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929161&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=sundown+e12+d2
Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929607&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box
Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier
Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929693&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=amplifier+kit
Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.
The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.
Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.
Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.
Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line
Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?
Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box
I've read about that auto leveling, it didn't seem to save the stock sub lol. (Though I think it blew when I was in an accident and got hit right in the driver-side rear.. they told me it was because I had the punch maxed out) Also, I don't really need it to go loud, so the stock sub was never a problem; I barely put it over 20-25 and it's loud enough for me and the wife.
I was looking at amps and it seems like they are around $150-250, but I would have no clue which one to get, that wouldn't blow all the speakers/be enough to power the sub. Any suggestions? I have wire schematics for taking apart the connectors going to the stock amp, so I wouldn't be opposed to just doing an in-place upgrade if I can for this price range.
And, looking at cheaper amps just for the sub, couldn't I get one of these two? Again, I know nothing, but I feel like I could use the existing wiring from the head to the amp by cutting the sub wires out of the connectors on the stock amp and connecting them to the output wires that run to the sub. Then I can cut the connector off in the trunk, put those 4 wires into a high level connector for whichever amp, and then run power separately. Then, with the sub amp in the trunk, I can run wires from it to the sub in whatever form necessary (IE, the BOSS one below gives 600w when bridged, so I would literally wire it as I am now)
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-R1002-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNKI/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
Is my thought process in the right direction, or am I way out in left field?
EDIT: Also, couldn't I use an LC2iB in the trunk to hook up another amp to the pre-existing wiring without bypassing the stock amp? They seem to be about $90, and if I can get an amp specifically for the sub for $50-60, I'd be okay with the $150 range
I haven't actually bought a LOC yet, going to in the next couple days, just pulling some of the wire into the vehicle, and mounting the amp. Still wanting on the sub to arrive.
Also, I'd prefer not to have to pull the head unit either, becomes much more of a pain in the ass. If I can just tap off one, or 2 rear speakers that would be ideal. I just don't know much about it.
EDIT: Another reason i had not bought a LOC yet, is my Amp has a jack where you can input High Level Inputs from my speakers. Although someone had suggested getting a LOC.. Is that really necessary, if one is basically built in?
Heres the amp
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pe_386430_195257150_TE_dp_1
No experience with their speakers, but I like their head units. Better sound quality than Pioneer and Kenwood at their respective price points, just without some of the stupid useless features (looking at you, Pioneer). Their amplifiers are good as well, but they're a bit overpriced (Rockford Fosgate is my go-to brand for amps).
Rockford Fosgate offers a 500 watt (RMS, not peak) Class-D amp for under $150 on Amazon. I push a sealed 12 with it in my Explorer. Plenty of bass, for me at least. And it's clean. Link
I don't advise you use either of those amps. If you can spend ~150, get the Rockford R500x1d. I have the R500-1D and it is one of the better amps I've had. Also, the Boss amp being a Class A/B, would do all typesof wonders on your electrical
I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.
The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416351284&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+500+watt+amp
Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539818799&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.
Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?
Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497924801&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=POlk+DB+6501
Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.
I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.
ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497925174&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier
I'm so sorry for bugging you but should I send back the fosgate amp for the one you linked? Or will it not matter much or at all with those daytons. Just wondering since the fosgate was 30 dollars more than the one you linked, what the difference would be between the amps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D7vnzbTTEKNZR
Don’t listen to him.... save an extra $50 and get a Rockford Prime amp.
It’ll do rated power and won’t start a fire.
Find an amp that does 300 watts at 4 ohms and you're good. A few examples: Rockford Alpine Rockville
So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?
This will work well.
What's the RMS power of the JL sub? I would recommend this for the speakers and this for the sub. Rockford tends to underrate their amps so you would be getting quite a bit more power than what they're rated at and you can't beat it for the money.
Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.
I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE
This the one?
I agree with the other commenter, don't go with that one. The good amps are CEA-2006 rated for the power they advertise. Other amps may say they can put out a certain power but it may not be true.
&#x200B;
This link is for a Rockford Fosgate (name brand) amp that puts out 300W+ RMS at 4 ohms. I have a RF 1200 watt amp and its birth sheet said it really is capable of 1250W of clean RMS power. If you get this one, it will have something similar, it may be certified for 520W (@ 2 ohms) or something, which would be over 300W RMS for 4 ohms.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67758_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R500X1D.html
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=car+audio+amplifier&qid=1555008509&s=gateway&sr=8-6
&#x200B;
This amp is Alpine, good brand, I've owned one in the past, but allows speaker level inputs if you need to do that.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html
This one is a Kenwood amp that also puts out 300W RMS, but it costs more than the RF and Alpine ones above
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html
Hmmm...
Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.
The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.
The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD
The subs are 220 for a pair. The box is 140 or so. That's only 360. Two of these amps by Fosgate would be bad ass.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462890345&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Rockford+mono&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51LDCoHZllL&amp;ref=plSrch.
they are 125 each on amazon. That's only 510. Go to knukonceptz. Buy 4 gauge and rca cables and everything you need for install. Can't be more than 100 even with the best shit. That's 620 for something that will literally shut down anyone under 1000 bucks. Have fun
Alright so I've got KnuKonceptz wire now, but will THIS work with THIS?
I wanted to give an update.
(http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
Am I missing anything?
Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.
Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)
Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier
Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component
Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial
Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT
hey, quick question. I'm looking at buying this subwoofer and amp. Would it work?
Parts list:
Woofa
Amp
ANL Fuse Holder
Ground Terminal
8AWG wire
Carpet
Combined with some wire I had on hand for the speaker and 12v connections - I like southwire for price/performance.
All connections crimped, soldered, and marine heatshrinked.
I tapped into an open KOEO fuse on the trunk's fusebox for the amp remote line. Unfortunately this means the sub turns on and off with the key, not the headunit, but I'm fine with that.
Wired the voice coils in parallel to end up with a 2ohm load.
Box internal volume is 10.5"x12"x18" - about 1.3 cubic feet. Image Dynamics recommends 1 cu. ft. in a sealed box, but 1.8 cu.ft. for "audiophiles" in a sealed box. I'm assuming that the audiophile in this case just means if we're going for only sq and not spl? I split the difference to end up with 1.3 cu. ft.
Running at 500w RMS it's pretty dang solid. Actually got off my butt and set the gain with a meter and 50Hz tone and not just by ear like I usually do.
My big challenge is that I need to figure out how to adjust or bypass the stock sub crossover from the OEM headunit/gateway. It's way too low, and I have a big ~40Hz hole in my bass. If anyone has insight as to how that works on the w211 Harmon Kardon system I'll be in your debt. Haven't dug into it yet.
I found 4 different amps on amazon. Which one would I need?
[1](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-500-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001ANZSU8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373046412&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500 "tooltip text")
[2](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR500X1-Boosted-Amplifier/dp/B007AQ2X4I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373046412&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500 "tooltip text")
[3](http://http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500X1bd-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HZ7E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373046412&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500en.wikipedia.org "tooltip text")
[4](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500-1bd-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B003TUVIUO "tooltip text")
I think these are the speakers
[Subs](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD212-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B000P6KN7Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
"tooltip text") Are 2ohm ok?
If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.
Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.
I assume you want an amp that costs $200? Rule of thumb for buying subs and amps is that the amp will always cost more. You will not find a suitable amp for $200
I lied. -D9601 2,400 WATTS CLASS-D MONO AMP by Pioneer http/www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_joeWtb12TCA4Y not sure if bridgeable due to Amazon's lack of information
I have a [pioneer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zHh6wbD89X5A8), I wanted the sub I purchased because I was under the impression that I could get a sealed box. That wasn't true, sonic electronics had incorrect info listed. I was going to purchase a sealed box for the new sub since I'm getting credit for the return. I've never used the sub
From the sidebar, here ya go.
Ive been looking at the Pioneer gmd9601 for a budget sub amp its not bad.. except for the lack of a subsonic filter.. which if you are running sealed i dont think it matters..
> might be a bit over the $200 but your not going to get a better amp for under that amount.
Funny how you say that and have a hifonics amp in your flair, where this BRX is rated at 900 at 2ohms at only $170.
On that site it's overpriced. It retails for under $200 elsewhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1516-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1500-Watt/dp/B00T3VMTCY
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94823_Hifonics-Brutus-BRX1516.1D.html
In any case I'd opt for a better amp.
What's your actual budget, /u/jjdresselhaus ?
For the box, I'll need dimensions, but heres a good cheap setup.
Skar 800RMS amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-800-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKEKNUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478295502&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=skar+800
Sundown E-10" subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-10-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ1Q9FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478295580&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sundown+e-10+d2
Knukonceptz 8-Gauge OFC amp-installation kit:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478295603&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge
Total ~ $300 and the box will cost about $50 to make.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RpKFHCctJfO/p_13693332/JL-Audio-ACP110LG-TW1.html
You know something is shit when they advertise the RMS at .25 Ohms. What the actual fuck. At the usual 2 Ohms that car subwoofers run at you are probably getting 50 watts max. Small box, small driver, small power = bad results. Always go at least 2/3.
If you want to fix your setup you should buy a decent 12 inch driver and use the T/S parameters to throw together a box. If you want to save space you are going to be sacrificing some extension, but at least with proper design it should have a flatter response. You also don't need a ton of power, a mono channel amp that does 100 watts RMS into 2 Ohms will get you started but 200+ lets you use less efficient drivers and will tend to have better build quality.
Edit: If you do go the DIY sub route I suggest this small and relatively cheap mono amp. Nothing amazing but delivers on the rating.
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-M3001-Monoblock-Certified-Amplifier/dp/B00U80FUHA
> I run a Pioneer Excelon double DIN model, and the variable HP & LP slopes & frequencies, along with the 13 band EQ are quite handy.
I assume you mean the Kenwood Excelon, which I was actually looking at and is about the same price. The Pioneer has all the same features, including HP, LP, and EQ, so I figured I would just go with the one that looked better which is Pioneer.
>I can't speak for the Hifonics brand
I was looking at some other sub amps, what do you think about the Precision Power ICE2600.1D?
As for the wire, is 4 gauge not enough for running 600 watts? I'm a bit lost on all of the things I would need if I would try to put a kit together like that.
> build the port large enough to keep down port velocity
Yea I tried to keep velocity below 25 m/s and will for sure make sure the actual interior volume is 1.25ft3.
> No amp is listed for the components
I'm planning to get this amp for the components. It does 95w at 2ohms but doesn't have a hpf, so would using a hpf on the HU be ok for that?
Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated!
Picked up a PPI ICE2600.1 amp for the sub that's going in my trailer, to go under the cabinet.
I noticed that the ICE series isn't on the r/CarAV list of recommended gear. Was it a bad purchase? I had a PPI amp for my Focal PolyKevlar components back in the day.... their prices seem to have dropped a lot.
I wanted to use my JBL 1200.1 that I used to absolutely LOVE for its power and value when I got it in 2003... unfortunately, it powers on but doesn't output sound. Anyone know if there's a good, inexpensive repair shop in the East SF Bay?
Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.
Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM
If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&amp;qid=1571410867&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&amp;qid=1571410867&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-5&amp;th=1
And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&amp;qid=1571410941&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-4
Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.
So updated setup -
Wiring Kit - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine
Amp - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1
Same speakers and subs.
You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_91DyDbM7Q8D07
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OwIMDbG4TDK4S
If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.
I am almost done redoing the stereo system in my '03 TJ. I'll go over it a bit for some reference. Just do some research and you'll find what suits your needs best. Affordability was definitely a concern of mine.
It had the stock headunit with the 7 speaker system which is 2 roll bar pods with coaxial 5.25" speakers, 2 knee panel speakers which are component 4" and tweeters, and a 6.5" subwoofer and 75w 1ohm amp in the center console.
I bought this JVC headunit in case I ever upgraded to a 5 channel amp, 22rms 50peak x 4channels. 6 channel, 4volt preamp output.
I replaced the knee panel and roll bar speakers with these Skar 5.25" speakers. 22w rms 75 peak each, 90db sensitivity. I had to use adapter brackets for the knee panel speakers. All speakers/brackets worked with stock hardware and covers. I tried to use baffles for the knee panel speakers but they would not fit behind the speaker. Perhaps I need to cut them down and glue them on, but I instead used polyfill behind like a blanket. I also stuffed the pods halfway or so along the edges. I used low volume door threshold foam along the edge of the pod speakers to seal it.
I added these Skar 1" tweeters to the dash corners. 20rms 80peak each, 88db sensitivity. They are at the bottom corners of my windshield screwed into the trim panel. I soldered them to the knee panel speakers in parallel. They were an afterthought, so I'm not sure if the wiring matches up but they play music.
I replaced the stock subwoofer with this Skar 6.5" DVC subwoofer. 200rms 400peak, 83.1db sensitivity. It's wired at 1 ohm to the stock amp and supposedly only getting 75w. The stock enclosure required heavy modification for the speaker to fit, lots of breaking, melting, and shaping of the plastic housing and center console. Used high volume foam to seal around the speaker. I get a bit of distortion at high volume, plan on getting a mono amp and tuning my sub individually. Also need to line the edges with a bit of polyfill. I've read the arguments, I'm going to test it.
I havent had the chance to take the doors or top off, its still winter in the Rockies, so idk how it'll sound. Probably pretty good. Feel free to ask any questions.
Edit: this is the mono amp I plan on purchasing