Best car audio amplifiers according to redditors
We found 1,181 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio amplifiers. We ranked the 300 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,181 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio amplifiers. We ranked the 300 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have the same setup, I also use a NuForce AMP/DAC that I can recommend right back at ya 😊
Which is why I said "and a decent DAC". There is a market for higher-grade portable audio, as evidenced by dedicated external portable DACs and IEMs. Such a device could also serve those of us that want to keep all of their music on them.
> Macbooks already dominate the musician/DJ portable device market
Surely you see the distinction between a MacBook and an iPod for portable audio listening.
I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.
Edit:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
It's an e10, as far as I can tell it's out of production and replaced with e10k which doesn't have that issue.
Here's the amazon review I mentioned.
Desk handmade by local cabinetmaker. Monitor section can be flipped and dropped 3"
13" Macbook Pro with Retina
32" 1080p LG LCD (Haven't decided what to replace with yet)
Mackie 402-VLZ3 mixer (being replaced by Denon Pro receiver)
Yamaha MSP5 powered monitors (yeah, yeah, I need to get stands. These are getting replaced by Genelec 8030s)
Wacom Intuos 3 graphics tablet
Late 2009 Mac Mini
FiiO DAC
First gen Xbox 360 to not have RROD
Logitech Bluetooth receiver
Cable raceway
TrendNet broadband router
Managed Switch
Short computer power cable
Short "Mickey Mouse" power cable
Short micro USB cable (for Chromecast)
Buy some of these, you slobs
20W amp
Qi wireless charger, didn't work well with my Nexus 4.
UniFi WAP
Flat-head power strip, behind my bed
Ikea MALM bed and nightstands.
I'm gonna need a link because I can't find it
EDIT: found it
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-Amplier-Shelf-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
It looks like it may be the topping acrylic shelf, people use it with the Schiit stack.
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WZ8XBbSDEN6DV
you should certainly have an amp/dac to get the best out of those.
you don't even have space for something like the fiio e07k?
i use the modi/magni stack (about $180) for my HD650s
I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6
500watts for about 130 USD
If i had that budget I would get these items:
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Debut-Carbon-Esprit-Black/dp/B00AWB6C22/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1466226679&sr=8-10&keywords=rega+rp3
https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Audio-Bronze-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B018GKM0JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466226797&sr=8-2&keywords=monitor+audio+bronze
https://www.amazon.com/Marantz-PM5005-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00L1HN0FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466226828&sr=1-1&keywords=marantz+integrated+amplifier
I also like KEF speakers.
I would not get a contractor for this, as you don't need to put it in your roof. I put one in my attic and I love it. Here's what I got:
The signal booster needs to be as close to the antenna as possible, so it is boosting the strongest signal. It took me an afternoon to install it all and run a cable down from my attic to basement. I already had the amp/splitter in basement, so that's why I ran everything there.
My wife didn't want to get rid of cable, but she hasn't talked about getting it back and it's been almost a year. PM me if you have any questions.
The major factor will be the quality of your other components—but with the B&W and the Rotels, if your ears are good you should be able to tell.
Recommendations:
I currently listen to the nuForce uDAC-II, with both headphones and studio monitors, and I like it very much. As I said above, it beats my (first-revision) Fubar II mainly in the stereo imaging and musicality departments, especially when used as a desktop DAC with the line outs. The Fubar was accurate as anything, but was a little flat to listen to for my taste. The Mk 2 may have improved things and in any case it's a very good DAC for desktop use. The others I have not listened to, but I hear very good things about the HRT MusicStreamer, and the Creative X-Fi product is bound to sound great, barring any difficulties you might have with installation.
Any of those DACs I am confident will give you an improvement in sound. Listen in the details; the tightness of the bass, the smoothness of voice, the sparkle of the treble, the placement of sound in the stereo image; all of those will be clearly and (hopefully) obviously improved with a good DAC if you're comparing from a default line-out. The first time you hear the difference it'll sorta knock your socks off...
Then again, if you don't hear a difference with your Apogee Duet II... perhaps it won't be that big a deal, and you can save yourself the investment. Also, is there a reason you can't use the Apogee with the PC or do you just want a dedicated connection for it? Another factor will be the source material, so make sure you're putting through CDs or lossless audio files, or at the minimum very high quality mp3's. Low bit-rate mp3's will sound pretty much the same regardless of the DAC you put them through...
tl;dr: In my experience a good DAC makes a huge difference, there are lots in your price range, make sure you'll be able to hear the difference in the investment, good luck, let us know how it turns out :)
(P.S: if it's ok to say so I'd be happy to sell you (or anyone else ;) my Fubar II (original version) for US$100. PM me if you want it!)
Fiio E10 DAC/amp ($75) and Beyerdynamic DT770 ($178)
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
I do use both a DAC and an Amp.
I use the Magni amp, and the Modi DAC by Schiit.
Magni: http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-1&keywords=schiit
Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-2&keywords=schiit
I'd definitely opt for the T440s over the T440p. The T440p is quite a fat system, at 1.3" thick. I mean maybe you're into thick stuff, but I find the T440s' 0.80" to be much more attractive. It's also half a pound lighter (or about the same weight when you config it with the 6-cell rear battery). Here's how I'd config one:
Price: $1,164.60 when you sign in via the Barnes & Noble gold discount site (which you can create for free here: www.lenovo.com/barnesnoblegold)
The only downside is the video performance would not be as good as the T440p with a discrete graphics card inside. The HD4400 will run Skyrim, but not very well. Here's a list of games and how they perform with the HD4400 and here's the GT730M for comparison. That's the trade-off really. There do exist systems that could game, somewhat portably, but I just don't think the GT 730m in the T440p is worth having to deal with such a heftier system. I think the durability, portability, and redongculous 14 and a half hour battery life (as tested by Laptop Magazine) outweigh some casual gaming. As far as audio quality goes, most laptops have the same internal sound cards. Fortunately there's some decent portable USB DACs on the market (like the Fiio E07K), if you're looking to upgrade your sound performance.
Also keep in mind that the Lenovo Y40 is just around the corner (probably May?) if you're looking for something with some more gaming prowess that'll be in your sweetspot of portability. It won't have quite the durability of a ThinkPad, nor battery life, but its keyboard isn't far off from the ThinkPad's, and its gaming performance would be far more significant than anything a ThinkPad could offer.
What about the Monoprice DAC/amp? Not sure if it's available out there but it's not a bad unit with pre and lineout
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
Rule of thumb, you get what you pay for and if it’s too good to be true it probably is.
Example boss claiming 1100 watts for $44.99 when others are selling 1000 watts for $180 or 1200 watt for $330 should be a big red flag that something isn’t right with that boss. That’s not to say you can’t get a deal on an amp that’s worth a damn or that you need to pay extra for a name it’s just an example that some things are to good to be true. That “1200 watt” boss amp would be lucky to make 400 watts on a good day.
I also own a pair of the SR80is as well as a NuForce Icon uDAC-2 Black Digital Audio Converter. I would say it's the best investments that I've made for my laptop.
I use Rockford 4 channel for my door speakers
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539563825&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+4+channel+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51x1P1Mnh6L&ref=plSrch
Same brand but the 750 for my 2 12”s and same brand but 1200 for my 18”
It’s this stand for Topping amps but fits Schiit perfectly as well!
And thanks for the kind words!
>So it was back to the future with over-the-air TV (OTA) using an antenna or what we Boomers used to call an aerial
I'm not that old man. I was born in 83, and I call it an aerial, (because it operates in the sky, and you put it up in the sky on a mast). That's just what it is.
>A few caveats: my unit purports to be good for more than one TV although AntennasDirect support told me reception takes a hit with that approach. Bear in mind, they want to sell more antennas. They also told me longer cable runs (don’t go more than 100 feet) affects reception adversely.
So use a distribution amplifier, and distribute it throughout your house. Watch 4 TV's on one aerial if you wish. Problem solved.
On a budget, I would probably opt for the NuForce Icon. It's a USB DAC and has RCA outputs you can use to connect to your receiver.
Certainly. One could also buy this and this and get SUBSTANTALLY better audio for half the price of Beats (but at the expense of that single red cord). Keep in mind these are open so there is a lot of sound leakage but for listener experience I think these hit the sweet spot as far as price and performance are concerned. Beats don't sound BAD but they are a fashion accessory in the same way Air Jordans aren't bad basketball shoes but they cost so much for name alone.
Yup, something like this Fiio E10 would be a really good option, especially for headphones.
$500 nets you an entry level system, even less if you're not installing yourself. My suggestion is to get a new radio + sub + amp. A new single din radio with usb option runs $80-130 depending on the brand (pioneer and kenwood are my favorites). A new radio with EQ adjustment should allow you to tune your stock system to where the highs arent nearly as harsh. The next thing is a subwoofer (plus the enclosure) and the amp (plus the wiring). Lets start small with an 8" sub in a ported box. An alpine type r 8" is around $100 and a ported box to go with it like this is $70. An amp to power the sub adequately could be a rockford prime monoblock which runs close to $130. An an amp kit to wrap it all up could be the Soundqubed CCA 1/0 amp kit for $60.
Total so far is $490 on equipment, and that isn't including the dash kit and wire harness for your car (which im completely guessing is anywhere from $60-100).
$3 - $4k will get you an awesome setup.
I've gone through this process many times. I've had more speakers and amps that I can keep track of. I've heard a lot of the stuff out there in this price range. So hopefully I can help you out. I would, however, like to let you know that you should try to find a dealer and listen there. That will most likely be your best bet. I can tell you all about speakers all day and tell you what my favorites are, but if they get there and you don't like them, then that doesn't mean they aren't good, it just means that they aren't for you. There's no way to know in advance.
So, let's start with some basics. You said you like bass. That means you'll want a sub. Even tower speakers won't do what you want in terms of bass. A lot of people think that towers make tons of bass compared to bookshelves, but that really isn't the case. Here, let's do some examples with some of my favorite brands: Bowers and Wilkins as well as KEF.
We can do B&W first. They have a 600 series, 700 series, and 800 series. The higher, the better. In those series, there are different speakers. 707, 706, 705... The smaller the last number, the bigger the speaker. the 707 are small bookshelves, while the 702 are large towers.
Let's say we have a budget of $2000. In the 600 series, you could get a pair of towers for $1800. These go down to 48hz. There's a good chance you'd want a sub with that. I definitely would.
Now, what if we jump up to the 700 series, which will give us better sound? We've actually got two options for the price.
First, we could get a pair of 706 bookshelves. They're also $1800. They go down to 50hz. That's 2hz different than the towers. You'd still want a subwoofer.
Another option would be to get a pair of 707 bookshelf speakers. They're $1200, which leaves you with and extra $600 for a nice subwoofer. So, in the end, these would give you the best full-range sound when compared to the towers or the bigger bookshelves.
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Let's take a look at KEF.
KEF has the Q series, which is the 'budget' series, and the R series, which is a step up from that.
These are KEF Q series towers. They're $1800. They get down to 44hz. Pretty low, but I'd still want a subwoofer.
These are the R series bookshelves. They are $2000 and only go down to 52hz, but that doesn't matter, since you were going to buy a subwoofer for something that goes to 44hz anyways. So you'd get better sound from these than the towers.
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Basically, with towers in this price range, you're paying for loudness rather than extension. However, once you climb up in price, towers become stand alone, and don't require subwoofers. But at your price range, that isn't usually the case.
Anyways, you said that you want them for your living room. I don't know what size it is, but usually towers are better for a living room than bookshelves since they can get louder easier, and if you're watching TV/Movies, loudness is pretty important.
So, let's talk about the setup.
First things first: turntable. I have a Rega Planar 2 and it works great. The Rega Planar 1 should be pretty similar. It should work great. I used mine with a NAD PP 2e for a while until I got an amp with a phono integrated. It worked great. I have a lot of Schiit stuff and I like it all so one from Schiit would probably be great as well.
That leaves us with a bit over $3000 for amp, speakers, and a sub. Ideally 2 subs, but probably not. We'll see.
A Yamaha Integrated amp would be great. It has an integrated DAC so you can use it with your TV much easier. It also has 100wpc, which is plenty.
A Marantz could be good as well, but no integrated DAC. I have Marantz and I like it, but I use it with an external DAC. Here's one of those for you. Either amp will work well. The Marantz has 40wpc, which isn't as much as the Yamaha. I would probably go with the Yamaha, but that's just me. Also the Yamaha comes in silver, which looks pretty awesome in my opinion.
Now we've got about $2600 left. I would personally cut it up like this: ~$2000 for speakers, ~$500 for a sub, and then save up for a second sub. We'll get to that later.
Speakers in the $2000 range are good. I'll give you some of my favorites.
Quad S-5. I've heard the S-4 and the S-2, and they're both phenomenal for price to performance. I have a pair of Quad Z-3. I spent months listening to different stuff, some stuff that was thousands of dollars more. I like the Quads better than the B&W 600, 700, and 800 series. I like them more than Martin Logan. I like them more than KEF. etc. The Z series is just the next step up from the S series. That being said, the S series is still some of the best. I'm actually going to swap the LS50s on my desk out for a pair of S-2 bookshelves. They're that good. They have a great ribbon tweeter, that gives you all of the detail you could want but none of the fatigue. Multiple smaller drivers means clean and punchy bass. Not a ton of extension, but you've got a sub, so that doesn't matter. Vocals are absolutely fantastic on them. They're just all around a very clean and great speaker. They sound good quiet and loud, which isn't that easy for a lot of speakers to do. Anyways, they're hard to find. I ended up ordering mine through tenacious sound. If you call you'll talk to a guy named Frank. He seems pretty knowledgeable on a lot of stuff. I'm not sure what they'll have in stock, but they'll be able to order them for you since they're a Quad dealer. Also, they have weird hours. Tuesday, Friday, Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Super weird hours but I've never had a problem getting in touch when I need to order anything. Anyways, these Quads would be my first choice. That being said, if you feel like extending your budget, the Z-3 would be better. Larger ribbon tweeter to make the highs just a bit cleaner, better drivers to make everything just a bit faster, and a larger cabinet to add more bass extension. Either of those would be my pick.
Next, we can look at B&W. Unfortunately, if you want a sub, this will be tough. I'm not a huge fan of the 600 series. They aren't the best price to performance in my opinion. The cheapest 700 series tower is the rest of your budget, and doesn't go down very low (48hz) so you'd want to add a sub, but you wouldn't have the budget for that. Let's talk about it anyways. The 700 series are a bit warmer of a speaker. The bass is a bit boosted and the treble is a bit laid back, but they have a metal tweeter so even though it is just a tad laid back, you still get great detail. As I said, B&W is one of my favorite brands. It's not for these though. It's for their flagship 700 series as well as the 800 D3. Those are both very good. Unfortunately, they're both quite outside of your price range. I think the 600 series could work for you, but there are better options for the same price.
KEF R700 would be fantastic. They are all around great performers. They're a tad on the bright side, but they do it well. They have some of the best imaging I've heard, which makes them a joy to listen to. KEF is also one of my favorite brands. I've got a few pairs and they're all really fun. These are a fantastic price as well. $1700 each originally down to $1100 each is nice. They just came out with a new line which is why these are so cheap. I like KEF a lot, so you really can't go wrong with these.
I really like the Ascend Acoustics Sierra. I haven't heard the tower version of them but I assume it is very similar. They have a soft dome tweeter, which makes them a bit easier to listen to. You can get a ribbon if you want that awesome detail and transparency like the Quads have. Anyways, the Sierras have really good bass. Clean and tight. The bookshelves sound great at all volumes. What these do really well is midrange. The midrange is extremely sweet and musical. Voices are fun, and instruments in that range sound textured and beautiful. The bass guitar in "My Melancholy Blues" by Queen sounds really nice. It's like a real bass guitar is right there in the room with you. Loads of fun.
I have hd558s and use a creative soundblasterz sound card, and I am happy with the quality. But would something like a FiiO E07K be much better?
I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.
If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.
These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.
If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.
Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)
If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.
The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.
As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.
Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.
My wife loves me but not HD650 love :X
and would something like this work Magni Headphone Amplifier + Modi USB Digital/Analog Convertor?
like mentioned by /u/milan616 you could just use that cable. if you can still return the e09k, consider getting the monoprice desktop dac/amp for pretty much the same price. it has the usb input youre looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Ok so if you own these than you know that the earbuds meet at a hub. From bud to this hub the cords appear to be rubber and very flexible. Below that meeting hub the cord appears braided. The braided portion is relatively stiff and there are some users who report that it frays and/or kinks if repeatedly wound tightly.
I suggest you use the supplied carrying case and don't tightly bend the braided portion.
Now while these absolutely do not require any headphone amp to drive these things (a cellphone will easily drive these), I just for giggles paired them with my FiiO E17K that I use for my DT 990s and Sennheiser HD650s and they open up VERY well if not driven too hard.
This is my go to track to test any new headphones and earbuds I buy and the 1More Triples pass with flying colors.
This is a no brainer purchase if you are looking for sub $100 buds as long as you are careful with the cord.
There's also an acrylic rack for that stack too: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/
The Schitt stack also fits in this rack as well as the JDS Atom amp.
There is a way to do it, yes, but it will be a bit more complicated than your description. I had a similar situation in my house when I cut the cord. I put the antenna in the attic with a distribution amplifier similar to this. The in-wall coax is definitely ok to use with either antenna or cable service.
One output of the amplifier was connected to a TV in a room immediately below. The other output went to the original cable which dropped through the walls to the basement where the original cable signal had come in. Another distribution amplifier there distributed the signal to four other rooms with TV jacks. (Note that the line from the antenna became the input signal to the basement amplifier; it was originally connected to one of the outputs.)
If your signals are strong and/or you don't need to split the signal at the antenna, you may not need the first distribution amplifier at the antenna.
This works well for all the TVs, getting about 35 channels. We are about 20 miles from most of the TV transmitters.
Hope this helps!
7506 @ $70 is a wonderful price. I say keep them and enjoy them until they're noticeably getting older. If you're new to headphones you will not be disappointed.
I will suggest investing in a udac to improve the sound quality from your computer. These honestly do make a huge difference. I've heard good things about the nuforce udac2.
The one for $285 should be the O2 AMP/ODAC Combo. If that's too much you could go with something like the Fiio E10. A little cheaper and a solid little amp/dac combo. I've had mine for about 6 months now and have been really happy with it, plus is shouldn't have any problem powering your HD558s.
Although, I would LOVE to get a O2/ODAC but I have a really hard time justifying the price...lol...but that's the audio game for ya.
I recently bought a pair of DT 770 80 ohm's with a Fiio e10 amp and an antlion modmic for right around that budget. I love the whole setup
The DT 770's are VERY comfortable, I could wear them for basically the whole day without any fatigue.
I am not personally familiar with your music, but after a quick sampling I think the DT 770's would serve it well being a bass and treble centric headphone.
DT 770 pro 80's for 149.99
Fiio e10 for $59.99
Antlion Modmic for $32.95 + shipping comes out to be like $50
This has you WELL inside of your $300 budget. This is the setup that I personally use, I play MOBA and FPS games and listen to a wide variety of music from metal --> electronic --> rap. Voices in teamspeak are clear, and the antlion modmic is SUPER clear (and more than capable of voice detection use).
I would recommend getting an amp, while I can power the DT770's off just my motherboard, they do sound much better when being powered off the amp and when you feel like turning them up having the ability to go a bit louder is nice. I was not aware however this setup will be MORE than able to go into "do serious damage to your ears levels" so be careful
Hi Zeos,
Which combination would you recommend?
Headphones:
DAC/AMP:
I will use the setup at work, hence isolation and comfort are important. Nevertheless I'm not competent enough to decide myself if there's enough power for 80ohm headphones from each DAC/AMP
Thanks!
Received wisdom is that something like a Fiio E7 is the best way to go.
It provides a very good DAC and headphone amp, away from the "noisy" interior of the PC.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while, just because I want to be able to display some custom gauges. You'd need a good touch screen + an install kit + a wiring adapter at the very least. For me, I'd also get something like this since the audio output quality from a Rpi has received mixed reviews at best. Then you'd need to figure out the best software to use, which I'm not very familiar with yet.
If you don't want to get into anything custom, a Pioneer Appradio would be much easier and probably cheaper too: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/ch.AppRadio.Compare
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I've been using the alpine 9887 head unit in my 06 and it's great, I really like the interface and IPod option. I upgraded the sound bar speakers to 6.5" kickers, $50 at best buy. And also upgraded the oval 6x4 speakers in the dash panel near the knees to 5.25" speakers with a bracket I found on Amazon
As for the sub I also had a fear of it getting stolen, so I built a box for it to put in the center console. I bought a 10" shallow sub and it fits perfectly, and hits pretty hard. I mounted the amp under the steering column, to go for the, out of sight out of mind idea. All the wires are hidden, and unless you know what you're looking for, you couldn't even tell anything was there.
Dash speaker brackets
10" shallow sub
Amp used, mounted under column
Write up used for mounting amp
Write up used for sub box
I followed the box guide almost exactly, but I cut a larger diameter hole since I used a 10" and he used an 8"
It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.
Headunit - DEH-150mp
(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)
keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.
You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.
Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.
I have this one, and its $150 - highly recommend it. They always underrate them, so it's kind of luck of the draw but mine is rated for a little over 500 watts.
Other users can successfully pull over 100 watts at 4ohm.
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX
Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD
Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.
What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.
You should definitely get an amp for those. Something like the Fiio E11? (I'm sure others can chime in with better suggestions).
Also, don't forget to let them burn in.
In terms of gaming, you want an open headphone since they give wider soundstage.
If you need a mic, Modmics are popular or you can get a desktop mic.
With all that being said, DT770s are definitely an upgrade over most if not all gaming headsets so enjoy!
Tek Syndicate also have videos relating to this topic
If you have 100$ to drop on a headphone amp, get something like a Magni or an E11 and simulate the effects of that thing with an equalizer. You'll get the same results and much better sound, and the effect isn't literally baked into the hardware if you ever want to get rid of it and just have a nice amp.
Sennheiser HD449.
If you really want an ear orgasm, combine them with any of FiiO's amazing headphone amps.
My combo: FiiO E11 + HD449 = ear bliss.
Detailed specs and frequency response chart:
http://www.headphone.com/headphones/sennheiser-hd-449.php
Example purchase links:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1348252469&sr=1-1&keywords=fiio+e11
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-449-Headphones-Black/dp/B005SNPV8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348252455&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+hd449
You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.
One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.
Hope this helps.
iPhone 6S.
I do have an external USB DAC I could try.
I also have the Audio Technicas. Are they good enough?
I would recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
It does not have a mic though.
Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!Schitt ModiHifiman HE-400
Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.
Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTEEDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.
I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.
Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P
I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.
The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.
EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20
Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.
Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.
Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.
If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.
If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.1+lepai&qid=1564026642&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Here's that same amp but cheaper.
Even with that amp or any similar amp it's not going to power the sub, but it can connect to it. A sub will have it's own amplification. A 2.1 amp like that will allow you to connect a sub that doesn't have high level outputs, like the MartinLogan Dynamo 300 for reference (has high level inputs but no outputs)
On the sub you linked, assuming you go with the Micca's and the Lepy LP-2020A:
Speaker wire from the amplifier to the subwoofer "high level input", then speaker wire from the "high level output" to the speakers. That sub allows you to connect it with pretty much any existing stereo setup.
Couple ideas for you:
Pyle
Lepai
Belkin Splitter
You'd be better off getting a pair of micca mb42x and a cheap amp like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
The HD598 is good, but I'd also look into the AD900X if you liked your old headphones. The bass and treble extension should be much better, and the soundstage will remain very nice and open.
A good amp/dac to consider is the FiiO E07K which has EQ settings for bass and treble, so you can flavor your music even more to your tastes.
I'd recommend the Mad Dogs for $300, and spend $90 further on a Fiio E07K if you want to get the best out of them. One of the best-value high-end closed headphones around.
I would recommend you buy a fiio andes.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
It is powerful enough and you won't really be missing out on anything.
At any rate, you are always better off buying better headphones and getting a good enough amp than buying ok headphones and getting an all-star amp.
For those who are interested, the cans are V-Moda Crossfade LPs that can be picked up on Amazon for half price from retail (my particular pair are Gunmetal, but they come in other colors). The ear shields on the sides are interchangeable and can be custom ordered and laser engraved from the official V-Moda website in various colors, and this is the image I used for engraving... cost around $50 for the custom etching if memory serves correctly.
On the nerdier side of audio, the headphone amp/DAC (digital audio converter) combo sitting on the left is a portable FiiO e07k Andes, all being played from a Google Nexus 10.
Out of the box, the LPs are a bit bassy (or "muddy" as some people call it), but using an amp really cleans everything up, in my personal opinion, and pushes the cans to their potential. For those who don't really consider themselves "audiophiles" or whatever you want to call it, headphone amps make a pretty big difference on mid - high range audiogear... near night and day in my opinion.
Hope this answers any questions about the set up! :D
Well, the HD 558's are actually fairly easy to drive to adequate volume levels, but they benefit from a headphone output or amplifier with low output impedance - from the reading I did, it seems like the output impedance of the Xonar DG is fairly high.
If you're upgrading, you could go for something external with a DAC, like the Fiio E07K.
That said, expect the differences between the DAC and your sound card to be fairly subtle - at most you can expect bass that is a bit tighter and tidier. The HD 558's are fine headphones, but aren't in any way what I would consider high end.
(Also: Your question would probably have been better in /r/headphones)
Sounds a lot like how I use my closed VModa M100s. They're a bit bassy though and at $300 I really can't justify suggesting you stretch the budget. It's not really worth the $50 on top unless you get a lot of utility from the fact they collapse so small for easy transport, the super hardcase you get, detachable cables, etc. Sound alone you can do the same for less.
Such as the Beyerdynamic Custom One. They can be bassy if you want, less so than the VModas, but have adjustable ports to move towards the "open" side of headphone world. Which might be nice for later nights in the office when you're not so worried about sound leaking in. Also the Beyer DT770, which is the earlier forerunner to the Custom. They are both super comfortable for long periods (so is the VModa).
The Custom One has a detachable cable while the DT770 has a typical studio long-as-heck cable. Those are bits to keep in mind if you're going to, say, roll from the office to public transit to the home office. You don't want a 12' cord with you.
Speaking of 12' cords, the ATh-M50 will of course get mentioned. Also very comfortable. More bassy than it should be for a monitoring headphone but I've noticed that changes with dacs/amps. Taking the M50 right out of my Macbook there's a lot of difference between it and the VModa also running out of the macbook. put a Fiio E07K in the signal path and the differences get cut down a bunch. Not entirely sure why as I just noticed this over the week. But wanted to put that FYI out there.
If you stay with these choices, and/or other 32 ohm and less models, you don't need an AMP or a DAC/AMP, but they can make a solid amount of difference. But perhaps not in the sense of "I can't believe I used to listen straight from my headphone jack." These headphones will themselves make the biggest impact with regard to quality difference in the sound. The amp or amp/dac will do more of the Quality Control side.
To me, especially if I'm seated in an office for a long period doing computer work uninterrupted, getting quality full sound out will keep me from putting the volume up too high to compensate for any SQ shortcomings derived from the computer, power requirements which change the power going to the headphone out, etc. Plus, I can EQ some bass away if the closed office headphones necessitated by the isolation requirement remain too boomy for the music de jour.
Things like the Fiio E07K or E17 are great and cheap, so is the Schiit Magni/Modi stack or the o2/odac. While the E07K is probably the only bit that would fit with headphone at a combo price in your budget, they are all interesting $100 bits to add to the setup later to up the sound quality (from the sound card). Not a ton of difference between them all so I would just go on price/feature basis. Or just collect them all. I have a Fiio stuck in my bag for mobile and a schiit magni now at the office, which is easy to connect to the Fiio as a DAC. Probably will grab the modi at some point because stringing cables to the Fiio isn't always "office friendly" in appearance for days where it shouldn't look like I was soldering at my desk, but I am really happy with the setup and work flow it creates. YMMV but hope that paints a complete picture which perhaps can help you judge other recommendations relative to your planned usage.
Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6
8 ohm is not so much special as it is uncommon in car audio. your home speakers are going to be around 8ohm but most car audio subs are 2ohm or 4ohm. so here is a very cheap but good car audio amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406508052&sr=1-4
this amp will do 300W at 4 ohm or 500W at 2 ohm. at your 8 ohm speaker this amp will do around the 150W range at best. so your sub is rated at up to 500W. this amp will run this sub for now and if you ever want to upgrade in the future you will have 500W at 2ohm to play with.
if an amp can produce 1,000W on a 1ohm speaker if you hook a 2ohm speaker to it that amp will then produce around 500W. if you attach a 4ohm speaker to it that amp can then produce 250W of power to that sub. if you hook your 8ohm sub to it that same 1KW amp can dish out around 125W of power to that sub. roughly
I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467
Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.
Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.
Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.
I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...
My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.
This is a great amp for the price, then if you want to get another sub in the future you will have the extra power on hand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495122194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=300x2+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51m3QK2fvWL&ref=plSrch
It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.
I prefer Sound Blaster Z/ZxR's surround to Dolby. Dolby tends to sound like a tin can where the Z/ZxR sounds more natural in a gaming situation. Altho since I've gotten better gear and developed a more sensitive ear I might just look into some type of crossover system that basically combines the Left and Right channels by a small percent to remove the hard left/right panning when gaming. That is basically all Dolby Headphone and Sound Blaster Surround does is just combine the two channels and throw the effects in a way that sounds more spacious.
If you're going with such a nice pair of cans like the K702's I'd go this route:
Sound Blaster Z
Schiit Modi Optical
Shiit Magni
You're going to spend $200 on the ZxR why not just get the Z a amp/dac that will last you for decades. A Schiit stack looks amazing, sounds amazing, is made in the US and has a 5 year warranty + 15 day satisfaction. The Modi Optical isn't in stock but I asked their CS the other day and they are shipped some to Amazon so they should be in stock very soon.
Your setup will look like this with the Z and Schiit amp/dac:
Sound Blaster Z > Optical cable > Modi > RCA's > Magni > Headphones.
If you go that route you get all of the benefits of the Z sound card (surround, EQ, etc) but get to bypass their lower quality amp/dac and use your own which will last much longer and sound much better.
I use a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-990 Pro 250ohms coupled with Schiit Magni and Modi for my headphone amp and digital/analog converter combo. The magni/modi combo is great for flat sound i.e doesn't add any extra sound qualities in the conversion or amplification (pro for some, con for others) and they power the 250ohm version of the DT-990 pros wonderfully. The DT-990 pros themselves are great metal headphones in my opinion. First off, they are the most comfortable headphones I've ever put on, I've worn them 8 hours a day for the past 2 months and sometimes forget they're even on. The soft velour earpads are fucking superb. Sound quality wise they're amazing as well. Massive soundstage, when I got them one of the first songs I played was Inside the Particle Storm- Dark Tranquillity and I was motherfucking blown away, and it doesn't hurt that they're good for FPS gaming as well. Amazing, punchy bass, but not overdone at all like you find in some DJ headphones. Good mids and nice highs. Some people find the treble on the dt-990s to be fatiguing but I've yet to come across that and even if I did I could get rid of the problem through the equalizer.
Stock alt. Big 3 the voltage has always sit at 14.9-15.2 depending on temperature.
Focal 8 inch components
Sony 4 channel bridged to 2
pioneer 9601
Hoping to upgrade to a pioneer 80prs head unit soon. Maybe the pioneer 8604 for the doors as well. Getting away from a ab amp for the doors would be more efficient.
EDIT: Capacitor Bank
The regulator on this alt/car is extremely slow this drastically help stabilize my voltage. Used to it would drop to 13.8 which isn’t bad but when the Bass note would stop it would spike to 15.7 which I didn’t like at all. Now when the bass note stops it will dump excess current into the capacitors instead of spiking.
Also I do not listen to sine wave type music.
It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.
___
In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.
Save up a bit and get the monoprice dac/amp combo: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.
Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).
Fiio E10k is the popular under-$100 choice (and deservedly so) but if you can find the Micca Origen on sale for less than $100 like it is right now on Amazon, it's good too. For a desktop amp, the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp is decent for that price range.
Is it worth upgrading to this amp if I have this one already? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have the HD600s.
It really depends on your budget.
You can get a decent DAC like this one on a budget http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-M2-Portable-headphone-amplifier/dp/B00KL3SACQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427350827&sr=1-18
But I'd recommend the the monoprice AMP/DAC brick http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350898&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+amp+dac
For the money, it's got everything you'll probably ever need and is actually pretty damn good.
The most expensive "desktop" DAC I'd recommend is JDS Labs ODAC http://www.jdslabs.com/products/46/standalone-odac/
It's basically as good as a DAC can get before you start getting into the receiver world.
As for what standalone DAC/AMPs actually "do," the best way to sum it up is that a good DAC will eliminate any sort of noise being generated by your PC and accurately translate your digital signal to an analog one. Better DACs will give you a more accurate signal to work with but there's only so much you can do before you're just wasting money.
AMPs on the other hand, vary wildly in what they do. Some amps, specifically tube amps, will "color" the signal to be warmer. Some people like this as it takes the "digital edge" off of music, but they're really nothing a good EQ couldn't replicate on a neutral AMP/DAC combo. Bad AMPs introduce tons of noise and distortion into your signal, good AMPs don't. Good amps also offer better separation between the left and right channels. The sky is really the limit on AMPs when it comes to price to performance but the bulk of that performance is going to be in raw power rather than in quality.
A good standalone AMP would be the Schiit Magni 2 http://schiit.com/products/magni-2
Their DAC the Modi 2 is also REALLY good, especially for the money. I have the Modi v1 on my desk right now and short of buying an ODAC, I don't think I could be happier with my setup.
Hope this helps!
Back on Amazon found mine on eBay here's the Amazon link.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_26SCDbCBPXX50
I went ahead and preemptively ordered this DAC/AMP, mostly because it's fairly cheap and has good reviews. I feel like I'm entering the audiophile rabbit hole from which there may be no coming back.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and a FiiO E17K Aspen 2 portable DAC.
Those two combined with the proper EQ settings for the headphones = fucking Nirvana.
That setup plus the FLACs from HDtracks is going to be my experience for the new album.
150 for an HD650 is a good deal and a properly amped HD650 is taking a huge dump on the HD598CS. But using the HD650 portable is not possible, due to its open back build and the poor isolation and high sound leakage that comes with it.
The HD650 is a headphone for desktop use only and using it with a portable amp does not make much sense.
If you really need a portable DAC/Amp and want to amp an HD650 the logical choice would be
___
Don't understand me wrong. The Fulla 2 will most likely work with everything you throw at it. But don't expect it to drive the HD650 while listening to Clair de lune with a track gain of +19dB
I'd go for the Micca Origen+ unless you need portability. Although it doesn't have bass boost it can drive 600ohm headphones which should cover later headphone upgrades (in case you're interested in upgrading of course).
I currently have a FiiO E17K which is great if you want to EQ the bass. It has +/-10db on bass and treble in steps of 2db so you can fine tune the bass boost instead of just flipping a switch. But it costs as much as the Micca Origen+ and is rather on the portable side (although it can be used as a desktop amp, I mostly use it this way).
A few things can cause hiss in the HD598. Check their impedance against the impedance of your laptop's DAC (its headphone port). HD598 are pretty efficient (50Ω), but they might be a little power thirsty. Your laptop is also designed for gaming and has a lot of processing going on, so the sound card might be causing interference. Then there's also power isolation to consider. Dirty or insufficient power can introduce a ton of noise, especially in the form of a hiss.
That being said, an external amp/DAC will work wonders for those HD598. Something like the affordable, portable Fiio E17 ($139) has USB input and will make those cans really sing.
Finally, you gotta look at the quality of your source. "High quality spotify" is an oxymoron. Spotify on its best day is 320kbps, which is like a typical MP3. You definitely want to delve into lossless (like FLAC you mentioned, ideally at 16-bit/44.1kHz or better) and Hi-Res (24-bit and 32-bit .flac or .dsf @ 96kHz-352kHz, and DSD 2.8MHz or 5.6MHz).
good morning. i'm no expert, but would it be a problem driving 250ohm headphones with a 600ohm amp?
also, i would suggest considering a more portable headphone amp. if you're going to spend on some nice headphones, there's no reason to limit their use to at home because you've only got a clunky headphone amp that is designed to sit on a desk.
​
Fiio is well known in the headphone amp market, and they definitely have more pocketable products.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/
​
don't know if the amp you're looking at has particular features you want.
Not a PCIe sound card, but I have a FiiO E17K DAC/AMP for sale at £75.
There's some more info in the thread I made a few days ago.
Never dropped below £94.99 new on Amazon.
That's why I use one of these to listen to music at work.
At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.
The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.
It's a Topping Dac/Amp shelf. It's not specifically for a Schiit stack but fits almost perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)
Get a powered amplifier, it will help strengthen the signal into it.
Also keep in mind, every split you will loose about 50% signal. A powered splitter would be a great investment IMO.
I have mine split into 4 HD Homerun Extends with no lose of signal using a ChannelMaster Splitter.
It is a power transformer, but sends power via coax instead of what you are accustomed. https://www.fws.co/images/product/medium/6567.jpg
It is used with cable amplifiers, typically if 5 or more TVs are in a home.
plugs into the top left port on this https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE amp.
looking at your rabbitears it seems that the stations that are south of the home are weak... but as an added bonus the broadcast towers that are south of you are pointing their signal south and away from you... so thats good if you don't want to be infiltrated by evil tv waves... but
one thing you have going for you is even your strongest signal from the northeast is weak its about 35db and most tvs will max out at about 90db but really you give yourself another 10db or so of buffer because these signal levels are approximate they could be slightly higher or lower.
so a real large and strong antenna will give you about 12-16db of boost... so you have your 35 + 15 = 50db ...
so that means you can use a strong preamp on that antenna like a ChannelMaster 7777 30db gain amp... the brand new ones are 26db i think not sure if you're gonna get a older one someplace.
so that will get you 80db of power maybe on your strongest signal maybe... and bring the other signals up to the 70's ... maybe... which is pretty good...
but power and signal quality are different.. you have to have signal for it to be amped and if the signal is flaky then you are amping flaky signal... but if the signal is flaky because it drops weak a bit then maybe a preamp right at the antenna will help a lot.
I am 60+ miles out in a few directions.... I picked 2 of those directions and pointed the very large full size 9 foot long and wide antennas at these broadcast towers.......... I then added CM7777 amps to each antenna... I combine them with a special coax splitter and then I run that cable to a distribution amp that has 8 ports to feed the rooms.. the distribution amp bumps the signal 4 more db .. So I have my 12db antenna + 30db of amp + 4db of distribution amp... I only have one splitter to combine the two antennas...
My strongest signal is 36db my weakest signal that i get really well is 7db .. I do at times get signals rated below 0 depending on weather conditions... normally rain makes things better because the signals that would bounce out into space bounce back off the clouds and to the ground... which is weird... also when a storm is behind a distant station it bounces that signal back towards me.... but those stations are not dependable only the ones about 7db and higher I can count on to be available all day every day.
loose wire crimps or improperly made crimps on wires are a big factor... they have to be good. that white plastic center insulator should come into the connector until its flush on the bottom when you look inside the connector.. it shouldn't be recessed.. it should be on the inside floor of the connector with the center copper wire poking all the way out of the connector about 1/4 inch. and they have to be tight and not spin on the wire or be loose.
then ummmmm splitters... splitters suck all the life out of your system so you have to use a distribution amp when you have low level signals. a regular 2 port out splitter will steal 50% of your signal.. the more ports the more they steal -3.5 to -11db .. not good so you run your antenna directly to the distribution amp and then you feed each room off the distribution amp.
If you need to (you don't) use a combiner / splitter like i am to combine 2 antennas you only use special power passing splitter to let the dc power for the amps to get through.
....................
so ... big antenna (you have no hopes of fox without a big antenna outside on the roof) pointed southeast at 125deg .. big amp... distribution amp... check your cable connectors.. don't use extra splitters
Big antenna like this
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Universal-Outdoor-Element-ANT3036Z/dp/B00009W3BW
PreAmp
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-CM-7777-Antenna-Preamplifier/dp/B000GGKOG8/
Distribution Amp
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE/
but like I said your signal is bad and in some cases its pointed away from you.
good luck :o)
edit as for you... you need the same (the strongest you can get) and maybe a small tower
Just adding. A box of RG6 cable is cheap so you may also want something like a distribution amplifier (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Otherwise you may experience to much loss when connecting multiple equipment (tv, pvr, pc). For ex., I have three tv's and a mythbox connected to the one antenna.
Buy an antenna with nothing less than ~12db gain. Unless you living under their transmission tower ie.,
Late Edit: I see a link to tvfool below, it's a great resource (site survey).
I noticed some have advised replacing the DISH splitters with regular splitters. That may or may not be necessary; if it's an older dish system the splitters it used may be perfectly capable of splitting the signal from your antenna. On the other hand, if the dish had multiple LNB's on it then you probably will need to remove and replace all the Dish Network splitters. If you can post a good, clear picture of the splitter(s) we can probably tell you if they will need to be replaced.
However if you are in an area where all your received signals are a bit on the weak side then you may instead want to replace any splitters with an amplified splitter such as one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE?keywords=channel%20master%20splitter&qid=1449601660&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Note they come in 2, 4, and 8 port models so you can match the number of outputs to the number of TV's you are feeding. The idea is to eliminate the loss normally associated with splitting the signal. On the other hand, if all the signals you want to receive are very strong, then adding one of these would be overkill and you can just get by with a passive splitter. If you post a link to your TVFool report we can give you better advice on this.
From my personal experience, I jumped from the Behringer UCA202 to an Audioengine D1 now, since I bought a set of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro's.
I played around with a friend's setup, and he really loved the Fiio E7 at ~$60
Portable, good looking and can handle your cans without breaking a sweat.
I have a Fiio E7- works perfectly with Linux (pulseaudio under Fedora, Mint and Ubuntu) via USB (no drivers required) and has dual outputs and is portable. Sounds is great and works fine with all headphones as well. I paid $69 for it.
Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fNeaub0DNF2KH
FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier (Black)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FOeaub1EY7PQ2
I'm using these
With this
And I've owned everything from TB x41s, to the this headset and even astro a40/50, but my current setup (which I got for $170) is by far the best I've owned.
I'm a huge fan of Fiio for this
http://www.fiio.net/en
(EDIT: looks like their website sucks, but Amazon carries a ton of them http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4 for example...)
I think you should consider getting a USB DAC along with the speakers. Even something simple like this would add a lot to your enjoyment of those speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS
Edit:
These will absolutely crush those Audioengine speakers - i'm using these in my office system and with a good source they make for an EXCELLENT hifi solution. Until you start getting into $2-3k active monitors you can't find much that will keep up with these QUADs.
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrmoni&1314806562&/QUAD-11L
edit again: Looking again, those aren't the active variant of those speakers, so they won't really work for you unless you get an amp setup. If you can find some 11L-Active speakers and a decent DAC, though, you'd be set.
I second the external USB sound card/device. Depending on how high quality you want to go and what kind of amplification you want, there are lots of options.
Turtle Beach makes one for slightly cheaper that looks decent.
The soundblaster above is probably a pretty good bet.
There are a whole bunch of off-brand USB sticks for around $15 that probably won't cut it.
There are external boxes, like the Creative Labs X-Fi soundblaster box, in the $60-80 range but probably better.
And for real good fidelity, you start getting into the USB DAC range. Highly recommended if you have good ears/headphones. These can range from $100 to over $500 depending on what you want... a few recommendations:
If that's in your price range then you'll enjoy the sound out of any of them, but check reviews and shop around, see what people think. I have the nuForce uDAC and really enjoy listening to it, so I can definitely recommend that based on experience.
Best of luck!
Yes I just upgraded, I will give an update when my audio setup comes in. I'm going with Cerwin Vega VE-5M's, Audiosource Amp 100, Nuforce Headphone amp to go with my M50's and Bose AE2's, and I'll stay classy with a vintage Pioneer SG-505 from 1985. Don't worry, it's being upgraded ;)
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
> boss r1000m
My bad, it's actually this one: Boss R1100M
I thought it was 1000+ reviews but its 700. Still though, all those people actually believe they're getting the bargain of the century.
I don't blame Boss though. They're doing a very good job of getting people to buy their stuff, and although we all rip them on this subreddit, we're not their target audience. Their target is high schoolers and people that shop at Walmart that are going to be happy with their purchase because they have "2000W" sound systems and can show off to their friends and what-not.
But it's when they try to sell that crap on Craigslist that always gets me. "2000W Bose 2 12" Competition Subwoofer in Bandpass Box, $300"
With a tiny $50 dollar Boss amp, 2 Boss subs and one of those disgusting prefab "bandpass" boxes with the 'Dual' or 'Pyle' subs in them and have blue LEDs inside.
/rant
I imagine that you just need an amp like this. The specs are pretty darn nice for its size imo. Then you find some speakers with the same RMS rating.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE
I own a 2015 Challenger.. and I run a JL W6v3. Sounds amazing.
As far as speakers go I plan on changing out the door/dash with component Polk and the rear with composites, so I agree with you on the brand choice there as well. You won't need to worry about finding/building/commissioning the right enclosure if you go with something like this. To answer your question about the amp, you will absolutely need one for a sub. A decent 4 channel amp could provide not only your sub (bridged @ 150W) power but can also handle your two new door speakers as well. The door speakers could run just on your headunit but will be lacking the power they could have with an aftermarket amp.
I just picked up the rockford r400.4d a couple of weeks ago. So far it's been awesome! And since the place I got it from was a certified retailer they price matched the Amazon price for me.
As /u/xTHANATOPSISX said, because you have a dual 2 ohm sub, you'll want to wire it to 1 ohm for the least money.
I would highly recommend the Rockford R1200X1D mono amp. Unfortunately, it's a little over your budget, but can be found for around $250.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
I think you should consider this amp then: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=psdc_10980751_t1_B004T166L8
it's $40 more, but worth the capabilities. Also, if you choose this amp, go with a Dual 4 ohm Type R sub.
Reason: One sub is great, you're going to feel some awesome bass in a tahoe, but I also know what it's like to be itching for that next-level of bass.
So, If you decided that you wanted more bass, just buy the exact same sub and box, or upgrade to a dual box, and just attached that to the amp.
The amp can handle as low as 1 ohm of stability. It does 1200w @1 ohm.
But with 1 sub, you will be putting out around 800w @ 2 ohms. 800 Watts is more than enough to push one of those subs.
But if you chose to add a sub down the line, it would bring the impedance to 1 ohm, putting out the full 1200 watts, but it will be split between the 2 subs, so each sub will get about 600 watts. (not in the danger zone for this sub for too-little-power) But with the extra sub, you will be increasing your surface area.
So, even if you changed your mind on going from 1 sub, to 2, you are only limited by purchasing another sub and box.
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
It could be and hopefully is in protect mode. Didn't know that existed. I have two RF Punch P3D4 12"'s running at 4OHMs off of the amp. The wiring kit is 8 gauge.
[Amp](Rockford Fosgate Prime 1,200-Watt Class-D 1-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kmEHub1A5FR89).
I may have gotten the bass knob that sits in the front of my car wet, and the light for it wasn't blue like it normally was, but instead just off. The subs actually worked for a second while I was going down the road before I realized the subs weren't working. They kicked in and then I realized that they weren't working and quickly turned the radio off, but couldn't disconnect the wire because I was on the way to work. I drove the car again later during work to get food with the radio off again, and after work I disconnected the power cable. I haven't tried the amp again since then, and that was Saturday afternoon.
What should I do to troubleshoot this? I don't want to turn it on again for fear that I ruin the subs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch
I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.
For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch
The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.
Hit me up with any questions
how would this amp work? a bit less expensive but still overrated on power for my sub. Rated at 750 Watts rms at 1 ohm.
Thanks for the quick reply. Told him he will need a better box.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463443730&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+750+rms
Is that the amp you speak of? $210 on amazon.
Also what wiring kit? I see many posted here and I don't know which would be best for his specific setup.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/
i would go straight for rockford with one of these but you could also grab a hifonics unit and be okay
ok good, its a fine subwoofer in the right box (make your own, dont buy one) but get the d2 and wire it like this
And for an amp under $200 to power it, really I would say the Twisted Sounds 1k, but its a bit over your budget, but wonderful amp. OR, here is one right on 200 that does 750rms
Compare to the FiiO E11 alone on many popular sites for $59.99 - The extra battery and charger are almost free if you're looking to get a portable amp for your audiophile headphones. Honestly, these make a difference for the standard headphones too - they just benefit the audiophile builds further. http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
The Sennheiser HD598 DrAquafresh linked is a great pair of headphones. Super clear, very comfortable, with that nice Sennheiser warm sound. Two problems though: they benefit from an amp, which is difficult for making them truly portable, and they're open, meaning they let a lot of sound in and out.
So, if you can afford a cheap portable amp like this FiiO, and aren't in loud areas, they're definitely the best option for you.
If you need noise isolation, I highly recommend IEMs. They will isolate sound much better than any "noise cancelling" headphones, while actually producing high quality sound. I have to say: avoid Bose if at all possible. There are much better options for the same price. See this buying guide to find a pair of IEMs for you.
If you don't like the idea of IEMs, most closed headphones will be pretty good at noise isolation. That buyers guide has a bunch of options.
The answer to that question is kind of technical so I'll do my best. First off your phone and your laptop both have an internal DAC (Digital Analog Converter) and a basic amp so why do you need another one?..
Using hifi headphones require more "juice" (learn about impedance) than the phone and laptop can provide. There's also a considerable interference that comes from the internal workings of the phone/laptop that's not shielded. The interference effects the sound noticeably. If you're running a lot of processes on your device while listening to music you'll hear a hiss.
A DAC/Amp like the one I listed above gives the juice your hifi headphones want + shields the craziness happening inside the device from effecting your tunes. That one is designed for desktop use and I use it primarily at my desk at work with my laptop. You can also consider a portable DAC/Amp like the Fiio E11 if you plan on using your headphones with your phone and want portability. In hindsight, I would've bought one of these Fiio E12 models which offers the same sound quality as the desktop model but as a portable.
I have a pair brainwavz b2 and I think they sound great. I use a e11 amp with them, but they sound pretty good out of the box as well. Also the cable looks cool
FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier ($64) and HRT Music Streamer II High Resolution USB D/A Converter ($149). Reviews here, here and here.
You're better off getting it from Amazon. I would never buy from eBay. Seems so unnecessarily sketchy.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
Anything under $40 probably won't be enough for the 250 ohm version, but this one isn't too far above your budget and should be powerful enough
Personally, I don't bother with high-quality music on the go, but Fiio makes some affordable headphone amps that are the same size as a phone like this.
Schiit is an American company that makes excellent headphone amps and DACs but will be primarily for desktop use due to size.
Just so you know, a headphone amplifier is only necessary for phones that have a high impedance (the sum of resistance in the headphone's circuitry). From my own experience, my Sennheiser HD598 with an impedance of around 50 ohms does not require a headphone amp (one does help a little bit but it's not night and day), while the higher level Sennheiser HD650 (300 ohm impedance) definitely requires an amp to sound "good".
I don't really know much about IEM or Closed Headphones (my HD598 is an open-end design) which is what you would probably want for listening on the go.
Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget
The M50s are fairly easy to drive, but ~$40 is a bit of a low budget for an amp, you could find a portable fiio amp used (like the e11) for about $40. As a matter fact, it is selling for $40 here.
However, I'd honestly recommend saving up some extra cash and keeping an eye out for something like the Schiit Magni used on Amazon or Head-Fi. I've seen them go for around $70 used, it has much more power output than the FiiO and it will be able to handle higher end headphones if you decide to upgrade later.
FiiO E10 would be a perfect solution to your troubles
Hola! Sí, es mini USB la entrada.
Es [este] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6) por si querés verlo.
Estoy en Colegiales/Chacarita.
Amazon is a pretty reliable source: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
When the Nexus is installed, I'll be using this for my sound.
Here is what I'm basing my stuff off of.
Budget for the sub and amp is <$300 preferably.
Yeah I think the dt880 pros as well as a Fiio E10
my previous post was wrong, sorry. it appears to NOT be the same as the k702.
various places say it comes with an adapter from 1/4 to 3.5 (which is what you need). for example, expand the Q&A section - dig down to http://www.amazon.com/this-laptop-accessory-need-Thanks/forum/Fx2DFM1I2D6PFWZ/Tx312LIISGRN9SD/1/ref=cm_cd_ql_tlc_al?_encoding=UTF8&amp;asin=B000EBBJ6Y the adapter will look like this http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-5mm-Stereo-6-35mm-Adaptor/dp/B003R70OA4 (but a bit prettier).
those adapters are large, a nuisance, and can put a strain on sockets. you're better off with one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE100-5-Headphone-Adapter-Extension/dp/B000068O6B - or similar, which has a flexible cable in the middle.
ps amazon currently have the k702 cheaper than the k701 by the looks of things. they're the same headphone, basically, but black (arguably not as nice looking), and the cable is the other way round - a small plug with an adapter to make it larger - which makes a lot more sense.
pps on the amp... these headphones are not very sensitive, so tend to need amplification. but it depends on taste and your computer and may not be necessary. so you might want to start without one and see how you like it. anyway, there are many to choose from. search for "headphone usb dac" (these actually include a dac, which converts from digitial to analogue, and so replace the sound card in your computer, as well as being an amplifier). i own an audioengine d1 and am pretty happy with it, but amazon don't seem to have that. here's an example of what i found on amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
if you search here for "headphone dac" or "headphone amp" you'll find lots of discussion, i suspect.
A digital to analogue converter (DAC) is anything that converts a digital signal to analogue, such as a 3.5mm port to put your headphones in a computer, ipod, phone, etc.
In the context of this subreddit however, we buy these to get better, cleaner sound than what an everyday laptop can achieve. We also get them because they usually double as headphone amplifiers that far exceed the volume and distortion capacity most devices have. You buy them when you have a good set of headphones or when their impedance is very high, mostly above 32 ohms. Here's a budget example, these things are pretty good for a start.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
This is the one I use : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
And these are my favorite headphones : http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-558-Headphones/dp/B004FEEY9A
It depends, what are you gaming on?
If you're on PC, you won't have any trouble but to get the best you need an amp or dac. You can find that for cheaper at other places, it's just one that I had on the top of my mind since I know it's a good one.
I actually use an expensive (For me) Sony pair of headphones and a clip-on Zalman Mic (Recommended to me).
Yeah, sorry about sounding condescending. It's kinda hard not to when talking about something related to a product that one bought.
Most connect through USB, some take optical audio or coaxial in.
The Schiit Modi is a popular budget DAC for $99. Others also have a headphone amp, such as the $80 (or less) Fiio E10.
Actually most of what I listen to is classical. I <3 Mahler.
They definitely sound better than the SR-60 headphones. Do they sound $250 better? Of course not, but it's diminishing returns, and you really have to admit that any headphones over $100 are a luxury item. I'm very happy with them.
I'll admit that I didn't try any other headphones over $200, but I was so happy with the SR-60 (especially compared to any other comparably-priced model) that I trusted Grado there. I probably should have tried some comparable Sennheisers (like the HD-600), though, and I agree that Audio-Technica makes some great cans too.
Yes, I am using an amp, but if you have a good audio source you don't need one with these. However, in this case, my computer is the source of the music, and since it's a Dell workstation with cheap onboard audio, the sound quality isn't great, so I needed an external DAC and amp. I bought the FiiO E10. Aside from my original SR-60 headphones, it's probably the best $70 I've ever spent on audio equipment. It's a USB DAC with built-in amplifier, and it has excellent sound quality.
As /u/MasterBettyFTW pointed out, you might want to take a look at a Headphone Amplifier. A relatively inexpensive amplifier that you can hook up to your PC would be the Fiio E10. I'm no expert, but this is only one of the few that I've personally tried out and was pretty happy with. I'm sure the other veterans here will have better suggestions.
Goodluck!
I'm not sure what you mean. A receiver is a tuner (radio) stuck in a box together with a pre-amplifier - for turntables and other weak signals -and an amplifier (which is what really makes sound louder). What you may actually want is a DAC (specialized digital audio converter if you are using a digital source, i.e. computer or ipod) and a specialized headphone amplifier. Here is a link to one example, there are lots more.
You could also find a used receiver or integrated amplifier (which is basically a receiver without a tuner/radio) that will accept your signal source (i.e. music player) and that you can plug the headphones into, but I doubt that's necessary.
You could get the 598's, a cheap USB DAC like the Fiio e10, and use Razer Surround for 7.1.
Alternatively you could get the Asus Xonar U3 and use the Dolby on there. It will be about the same.
Q701 and FiiO e10.
Get the cans used and the e10 new for a total of around 260ish, probably even less if you ebay it or just buy used on amazon, I think the cheapest I saw both together was 230ish. For what it's worth, I bought both of my FiiO amps from amazon, used, and they both came essentially fresh out of the box. My e17 had a small nick on the back corner, but I never notice it. Other than that, check your local craigslist. I've heard of people finding Senn 598 for less than 100. (Mind you, those headphones are a different sound signature than the XB500 or Q701, I just used them as an example.)
Your first step should be to get off onboard sound. The two easiest routes here would either getting a dedicated sound card or a USB DAC/amp combo.
If you decide on upgrading your sound card, something like the Asus DG/DGX will do fine to start with; they'll clean up the sound nicely and will be good enough to drive an efficient set of headphones. Later when you upgrade your headphones, you can then upgrade to the ST/STX and get yourself a proper amp like the Matrix M-stage or 02. That would imo be the better option in the long run.
The USB DAC/amp combo like the Fiio E10 will be a better option if you plan on getting slightly harder to drive headphones from the get go, e.g. Senns, Beyer...
That leaves you with around $250-$300 for the headphones. For your uses(movies and rock), an open pair of headphones like the AD900 would be a great all rounder; great comfort and very efficient. Also have a look at the Beyer DT880, also a good choice within your budget. These would have a wide soundstage perfect for movies and be versatile enough for most music. An open set will generally sound more natural than a closed one.
If you really need closed, the Brainwavz HM5 would be a good choice and way under your budget, enough left over to get yourself a set of Grado SR80. Grados are known as the hardest rocking headphones around, with a fast energetic and upfront sound that goes great with rock/alternative/metal/anything fast paced.
As some others mentioned, the Beyer DT770 are a nice set but a bit too bassy for my liking. I much prefer the DT250-80, which have a great smooth midrange.
I use just a basic [Behringer UCA2020] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000KW2YEI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=wwwpuresimula-20). And haven't had a single problem with it. I don't use headphones so I have no idea on how good that part is.
The next step up would be the offerings by FiiO with the FiiO E10 being USB powered and having a better headphone amp.
Totally.
Did it, a couple times, just to avoid bending all the way to the floor on the front of the box.
The Fiio E10 is my favorite, but I wouldn't call it cheap.
I'd suggest some velcro or double-sided foam tape to keep the thing in place.
I have a pair of 558's, and I use the Fiio E10. It's a beautiful combo.
Amazon page of the E10: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VO7LG6/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996566&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier
You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996848&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RCA+to+3.5
I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.
Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.
Best you can do is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=lepai&amp;qid=1465334470&amp;ref_=sr_1_5&amp;sr=8-5
It's a short term solution. At some point you are going to have to purchase a real receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409635171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+lepai
This is what you're looking for
I would not get that device. You don't need the led and its overpriced for what it is. I have a lapei 2020 that works great but it wouldn't work with the sub.
This version has a sub output and will be all that you need.
Here are some thoughts.
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6qmgzbWC487DC amp to power the speakers and easy to transport. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=pla affordable speakers that punch above their price. Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rmgzbW2A60XF and an affordable subwoofer. Run speaker wire to connect speakers to amp. Not sure what your media source is though.
I don't know if this is the cheapest or simplest option, but you could have chromecast audios at the receiver, TV, and PC ($35 x 3 = $105). This would allow you to turn on/off media for the three systems from any device with chromecast support, and you could set up a Plex server if you want to use your own library of content in addition to streaming sources.
Issues:
Can you give the model numbers for the TV, receiver, soundbar, and PC speakers? That would probably be easier than listing their inputs and features individually.
How do you connect the TV to the soundbar? If it doesn't accept multiple inputs, you'll have to go through the TV, which could be a problem.
For the PC speakers, you'll probably need a y-splitter to combine the PC and chromecast inputs so you don't have to switch between them.
The two-zone receiver is trickier, because I don't know how you could control A/B/A+B from your phone or PC. If that level of control is a deal-breaker, then it might be easier to get something like this for the second zone, which requires another chromecast as well ($105 + $35 + $25 = $165).
I've been thinking about doing something similar (3 amp+speaker systems in different rooms), and this is the simplest solution I've been able to find.
Yes, you just need an amp capable. The cheap 2 channel ones arent going to have a sub output usually. That requires a price jump.
But something like this combo will blow the pants off that logitech set
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001PNOH2I&amp;pd_rd_r=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE&amp;pd_rd_w=u1mFH&amp;pd_rd_wg=GZfhZ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE
this is a cheapy amp with sub out
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520822446&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518544998&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=lepai+168ha&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HAXZahetL&amp;ref=plSrch
Would this be a better amp for the price?
I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it
It is a Fiio e17 Dac and Fiio e09k.
I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.
I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.
I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510938798&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=FiiO+E17&amp;dpID=41txNfEtYYL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510938798&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=FiiO+E17&amp;dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.
I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3
https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/
Any questions I'll try to get to after work.
Thanks
You want portable or is this just at home?
If you're only at home O2/ODAC combo or the Magni/Modi combo.
Magni: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=0&amp;products_id=13
Modi :http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=0&amp;products_id=14
O2 : http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=o2full
ODAC (this is the combo and the odac by itself) http://www.jdslabs.com/storecat.php?fetchcat=5
If you want to be on the go as well at home I would say the E17/E09k combo. This way you can take the E17 on the go but dock it at home.
E17 : http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754570&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=e17
E09k : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754606&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=e17
If you want to do away with a pricier DAC a behringer uca202 is an easy substitute.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754731&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=uca202
Edit - Links
[Fiio E07k amp/dac] (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6)
and
ATH-M50x
or you can go for the slightly older version
ATH-M50
Yeah, they're probably fine. Check the seller's ratings to make sure that they've been positive. I don't know if you'll want the very cheapest one, but maybe a rechargeable one or something. For example, the Tiger one that is rechargeable, it's seller has a positive feedback of 100% of 963 customers. That's really fucking good. You'll want to look for at least 95% or above, and hopefully more than 100 customers minimum.
Also, if you want to use one of these, that's fine and all, but it's just an amp, not a DAC. Most of the time, you're really going to want both of those things. Seriously, look at this one. I have it, it works well.
http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370971156&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e07k
I need to adjust my exemptions, I've owed the last two years and probably will this year.
However, if I can give you some unsolicited advice, don't get Beats headphones. To be blunt, they're overpriced garbage. Sure, they sound good, but you're primarily paying for the brand, not quality. Personally, I'd rather pay for quality than the brand.
If you're looking for headphones, you can't do better than the AudioTechnica M50X headphones for the money. If you're looking for earbuds, I highly recommend the Shure SE215 earbuds. Both of them sound amazing, though if you really want to hear how good they sound, a headphone amp like the FiiO E07K "Andes" will really bring out what the headphones can do. Creative makes some great portable headphone amps as well, though I found that the FiiO (which is surprisingly hard to find now, was easy a year ago) gets digital audio from my iDevices, which is fantastic.
I see. You will need to get an extra amp if you decide on getting an external dac, but why is that not the case if you buy an internal sound card? Also is this a good choise for a noob audiophile like me, or are there better combos for under 100$? Thank you for the excellent explanation btw.
my HD-25's sound pretty crisp with this fiio. check it out sometime if you're looking to up the sound quality. get the line-out dock cable with it.
that is an analog mic with an ADC then the USB interface, essentially a sound card, it isn't just a wire adapter. sound inside the computer is digital, sound outside of the computer is analog, there must be some means to convert it from one to the other. For headphones I'd use a decent DAC and amp stage, something like this for portability, or this for stationary use or FiiO E07k for ultra portability
I have the Fiio E07k. I really like it. Nice and small, fits in my pocket, great battery life.
600 watt RMS amplifiers aren't as common, so they're usually a bit more expensive. The sweet spot for amplifiers in term of prices is 500 watts RMS (for entry level systems), so you'll be able to use your system at its loudest without worrying about frying your subwoofers, but your amplifier will run hot, since it will be at full power most of the time. Usually reputable amplifiers will be able to handle it though.
Here are two suggestions for 500 watts RMS:
Alpine MRV-M500
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D
Most people would rather overcompensate when it comes to the amplifier, so alternatively you could step down the power of the subs and go with two of these, and run your amplifier much cooler with the gain turned down a bit, which will prolong its life.
Basically it comes down these 3 options:
Personally, I had the WXv2 subwoofers for 4 years, and they worked great. Plus, they're meant for sealed enclosures, and the W0v3s are meant for ported enclosures. Ultimately, it's your choice though! Hope I was of some help, and enjoy the system!
So quick question, I'm still learning all the math behind car audio and want to make sure I understand what amp I need to get. If I got an amp like this and wired it according to Rockfords website, on the 4Ohm P3 it would get 500W?
$500 or under will be nearly impossible for a system with a headunit with built in navigation unless you go with used gear.
This is what I'd go with on a budget of $1,000.
Headunit $650
Box $135
Sub $73
Amp $115
Total is $973. It should end up a little over $1,000 after you buy your wiring harness and wiring kit, and I'm not sure if you need an expensive dash kit for that car. The new headunit should improve the sound of your stock speakers by giving you a lot more eq options so you can shape the sound to your liking. I added the sub because bass is usually what causes distortion in stock speakers, so with a sub you can change your crossovers on your headunit so your speakers only play your mids and highs and the sub handles your lows, which should also help to clean up the sound.
If you're not set on navigation though I'd suggest you get a different headunit. You can get a unit with comparable features minus navigation for half the price. I normally listen to my music from my phone with bluetooth and google maps just plays through the speakers telling me where to turn. Works really well for me since my unit doesn't have nav.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
I'm unfamiliar with those ones. If you take one out and take a picture of the back with the magnet, it should have a model number and impedance. We can go from there. Otherwise I'd say something like a Rockford R500-1. Can't know for sure, though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=aw_d_img_back_car?qid=1370818771&amp;amp;amp;sr=8-2
Don't believe any of amazon's specs on this, it's 500w at 2ohm and 250w at 4ohm according to Rockford's website.
Also, if all you want is Aux and sub pre outs on the radio, get a Pioneer DEH-150MP. $60 at Best buy.
I have these Rockfords, with this amp. I love it, no complaints.
Thanks for the advice it was helpful. These are my speakers, my 4 channel amp, my one channel amp, and I'm going to install a 12" kicker subwoofer in a factory box.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00YQ674D0&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1ZCHPV8EK9A6VJT7C757
Would probably also do the job
You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.
And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.
Thanks man, but I am not familiar with your nomenclature there. What do you mean as Dac? Is that another amp?
And I am really impressed at the 60$ you're throwing at me. They're cheap for the quality you seem to express.
The schiit Magni is 99$, is it this one?
EDIT: Oh, DAC (Digital to Analog) converter?
Get Polk db series 6x9 and Pioneer GMsub amp. For 5" (I assume up front) see if these Polk db components would fit.
The Polks are very loud and I'd recommend as much sub as you can muster to match their output. I have the db6501 6.5" components fed by a bridged 4ch amp (~200 watts/ch) and they're nearly ear-killing w/o distoring. My 12" sub in a sealed box can barely keep up, a large ported box or even 2 subs would be suggested.
Pioneer gm-d8604, and gm-8601 is around 250.
You could do a pair of skar shallow 12's and keep your back seat. You could probably step up to the pioneer 9601 and single american bass xr15 and get skull smashing clean bass without totally destroying your budget.
1200 at 1 ohm does the job for me at a little more than your budget https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cIXfvb1CMFT35
I have a few, but it depends on your budget. If you are looking for all in one DAC and Amp combos, the two I would suggest are:
BUDGET
FiiO E10K and the NuForce uDAC3
Both of those would be great options for a budget solution, and they are tiny so they double as a portable or mobile Dac/Amp. They get power from USB, but it should be enough to drive 50ohm headphones. The Fiio is going to be the cheaper of the two, around $75, and the Nuforce will be around $100. Sometimes the Nuforce uDac3 will be around $70-$80 on amazon, but it's usually around $100.
MORE EXPENSIVE
If you have between $200-$300 budget, then I would recommend the Modi 2 and Magni 2 by Schiit Audio. It is usually referred to as the 'Schiit Stack" (because you literally stack them on top of each other lol), but you don't have to stack them.
If you go to their site, it will lists all of their amps, and all of their Dacs. The Magni 2 is the Amp, and the Modi 2 is the Dac. There are the basic versions (which is what I have), and they run $99 each if you order directly through Schiit, which comes out to $200 for the set. They also make an "Uber" version of each, which runs about $150 bucks per unit, which is $300 total. The differences between the standard and Uber version or sort of minimal, but the Uber version of the Schiit stack is regarded by many audiophiles as the best "budget" audiophile Dac/Amp setup. For the price, it rivals many solid state and tube amp and dacs that cost $500+ dollars.
I have the Standard version, and it sounds great with my AKG K612's. There is a list somewhere of all of the headsets that sound great with the Schiit stack, and what kind of sound signature you get out of each. The best thing to do if you already know what kind of sound signature you like out of your headphones, is to find the Headphone + Dac/Amp combo that produces that type of sound, and pic that. But I would say that the HD598's + the Schiit stack will be perfectly fine for you, but of course that will be up for you to decide if you were to go this route.
MY SUGGESTION
I would recommend the budget route, at least until you know what kind of sound signature you like. Some people want flat sounding cans, others want bright highs (probably really good for hearing gunshots and footsteps), others want a more warm sound, where the mids really break through the track and the bass really kicks.
The budget option will be a cheap way for you to determine if the HD598's produce the type of sound you like. If they do, then you can upgrade your Dac and Amp in the future, OR just change to a different headset if you decide that you want more highs, or more low end.
Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.
- Dominator Platinum is a great choice if you have the budget for it (it looks like you do)
- I'd get a beefy air cooler like this one. AIOs are nice to have and look at but in the end, air cooling will work best.
- Don't bother with a sound card. If you want good audio, invest in a dac amplifier like this one.
Finally, I think you'd have a lot of fun putting this kick-ass build together yourself. Not everyone has the time or the expertise, but if you have the time and patience, I think you'd find it rewarding.
> Even a lower end audiophile DAC changes the game.
I don't know how "audiophile" my Monoprice DAC is but yes, it's been a world of difference since I got mine vs on board sound.
edit: to the guy who deleted his comment, this one
to use the SA60 you could combine it with something like Monoprice desktop amp: usb/aux input, with both fixed and variable lineouts to send signal to SA60...this might be somewhat more expensive but would give you a better speaker amp as well as a higher powered headphone amp when compared to the all-in-one VX1
That would work, though it's probably overkill. If you're also using it to power speakers when not listening to headphones that could be cool. But, you might want to consider something with USB.
I use a monoprice headphone amp with my HD600 and it works phenomenally. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Gotcha! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Solid amp. Plenty of RCAs (ins and outs) and a nice volume knob.
Do you already have a headphone amp or happen to have a stereo amp or receiver with a headphone jack?
Lowest decent entry level Audio-Technica AT-LP60XHP $129 has a headphone jack for easy to drive headphones.
Or a better Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top. The Teac also has a built in phono stage preamp.
Then add a $100 headphone amp: [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ SEPARATE DAC & AMP & TUBE-AMP
Or under $100:
Or look for a better used turntable, often vintage 70s and budget in a stylus replacement $30 to $50 if it does not have a new one.
If it does not have a built in phono stage preamp, you will need to add one before the headphone amp, or use a basic entry level combo preamp and headphone amp, Nobsound T12 Phono Preamp Headphone Amplifier $35 or Depusheng PP500 $25.
Appreciate all this. Helpful to hear from someone who went through the same thing.
What about this amp for an even more budget minded person, though?
I have a similar setup. Buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-PREMIUM-6-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B001VIYYCK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448947514&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rca+cable
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Have fun good sir, should be plug and play.
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Should be [$20 cheaper via Jet with the promo "NEWTOJET"] (https://jet.com/product/Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier-11567/f9210e741f7a4f4ab44cdd35e1e83aa0).
Edit: "NEWTOJET" may be expired. If so, "20NOW" should still work for $15 off, I believe.
I think a DAC would be useful over your motherboard audio. What you need is one with a line out connection to run to your amp. I would recommend the Monoprice headphone amp/dac: Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IAZzwb2V4C040
Honestly the mix amp and the fiio e10k most likely wouldn't output enough power to power anything over 64 ohm. Your best bet would be to get this monoprice amp that's $10 more then the fiio but is rated to power 16 to 600 ohm headphones with a gain selection. This would at least help future proof you for any headphones you get in the future. I hope this helps.
Monoprice desktop amp:
Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g0LQCbY27BTDN
Nothing was Prime Day sale or anything, but I got these beautiful bastards and I'll be driving them with this. I could do a lot better with amps and DACs but I was already $500 deep so I'll settle with this for now and upgrade that stuff later. The wait until Tuesday night is going to be painful. Haven't upgraded in like 4 years.
i don't know about the prices in the US but some brand you can check out are NAD, Marantz (like this PM5005) and Onkyo. I know there are many other good brands out there but these are the ones i'm currently eying to buy from so they are my personal recommendation.
Well, according to a quick google search it looks like a really nice watch.
As far as turntable recommendations, it's hard to say without knowing how much you spend and how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. You say don't know much about vinyl - is it something you think you'll really get into? Or is it something that you think will be a part-time interest to you.
I'm not saying that to be elitist, there's no right or wrong answer. But it helps to put some thought into now so that you can "future-proof" your purchases.
For much less, this and this will blow away what you listed. Pro-ject and Marantz are two top-tier names in home audio, and while this is sort of cookie-cutter and mid/entry level to snobs like me, I guarantee the average person will be very impressed by the sound it puts out.
Just to push the envelope, for example, if you're looking to spend a little more, the Clearaudio Concept (for about $1200) is often hailed as one of the better record players under $3k. But it's very far from user friendly, and while it's worth every penny I wouldn't recommend it to a hobbyist. And, truthfully - the average listener will hear very little difference between this and the Clearaudio. But to somebody like me? Hell ya, worth every extra penny.
So it's your call my man. I'd do your research a bit, and stay away from "all-in-one" kits. For even $2k, you can get a very nice turntable and receiver that would make a lot of people jealous.
That conversation can go so many different ways...
Google can point you at a number of 'best amps for vinyl' lists. Many will have built-in preamps (and hopefully decent ones if they make it to that kind of list).
If you want to stay in the 'good bet and available on Amazon' mold, I had considered something like a Marantz PM5005. It's not trying to be a home theatre, it's not trying to be a radio, it's just a solid amplifier without a lot of bells and whistles. You can plug the turntable right into it (so you don't need the preamp).
If you felt like going vintage (or at least second hand), the amp can be a safer bet than a turntable sometimes, and if you happen to be in the Seattle area I can probably hook you up. PM me if you want more info.
What are you going to be connecting them to? A PC? TV?
You definitely need an amplifier/receiver, but what kind of equipment you use will depend on the audio outputs available on the device you'll be connecting them to. These are probably about the cheapest amplifiers that will support two speakers and a subwoofer, and they work well as long as you don't crank the volume up past 70-80%, but you'll need to be able to provide the audio signal through either a 3.5mm TRS (headphone) plug, or red and white RCA plugs. If you want audio from an HDMI source, you'll have to spend more (probably ~$100 minimum) for an AV receiver.
Several options.
You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.
You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.
Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2
You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3
I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA
Honestly I would build a passive sub to go along with those OSs. Also I would go with a cheap amp like https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO
You can always upgrade later...
I'm getting ready to order a set of Micca MB42x and for the sake of future proofing for a sub was planning on using this amp. Most of these subs appear to be powered though, what does the setup look like when using powered and non powered components? Would I set the speakers up as usual then set up the sub separately?
How about this one? Looks like it's 40w x 2.
http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417038573&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=amplifier
I'm hoping to spend absolutely as little as possible to get the speakers working.
Wow thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Yeah Elite is one of the main reasons for getting this. I already have a DK2 and HOTAS so this is kind of the cherry on top for immersion lol. I don't know a whole lot about sound but I am above average with computers and quite handy with tools so I'm sure I will get it all going nicely. Thanks again for your advice I think it has pointed me in the right direction. A couple more questions though;
How important is the crossover? I'm looking at this one here http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417740400&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Lepai+LP-168HA it's a little more but has a built in crossover, and some extra power, worth it?
My soundcard driver panel has an LFE crossover frequency thing outlined here http://www.manualslib.com/manual/414988/Asus-Xonar-Dsx.html?page=40 maybe this is enough and I don't need to spend the extra money on the other amp? Not that the few extra bucks will make or break it for me. Thoughts?
I have the Xonar DGX soundcard and I only use Headphones if that makes any difference in what to get or how to set it up.
Use of a buttkicker usually involves another amplifier. You can buy the whole kit like this or you can get separate parts like this (Note the "Frequently bought together" list on that page). Either way, you'll take an audio output from either the headphone jack on your computer or an audio output from your soundbar, and send it to the amp, which will filter the higher frequencies and amplify the base for the kicker. Usually, this will be the left channel. Screw that puppy (or two) onto your couch and your whole couch will join you in VR! :D
Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.
This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF
Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP
Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ
StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X
This was what I was running before I purchased a receiver: LP2020A+ Amp and Dayton Audio B652
This is only 2.0, but it sounded great and it was less than $100.
You would most likely need something like this if you plan on getting a passive subwoofer, or this if you plan on running a powered subwoofer.
I highly recommend anyone new to home audio head over to /r/zeos and then /r/hometheater
Cool, so it's nice that you have both types of input. The "line in" jack and the four coax guys can be used independently. Therefore if you liked the small amp form factor you could get something like this, or go scrounge a thrift store for a larger unit.
I was in the market for a new computer speaker setup, and rather than go with a pre-built kit like the ProMedia 2.1 I decided to buy piece by piece.
I picked up a pair of the Micca MB42X's and this amp.
My question is... 1)How's the amp I picked and 2) How will it sound without a subwoofer? I plan on buying one but wanted to wait until I have more funds.
Also if anyone can recommend a decent lower priced sub to go with this I would really appreciate it!
Yes. Oops. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478404297&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX280_SY350_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HAXZahetL&amp;ref=plSrch
What information are you looking for? I run four of these hooked up to this. I'm getting ready to hit the sack but if you can provide me with specific questions I can try my best to answer in the morning!
You need an amplifier. I use an Aura bass shaker with a cheap amplifier. Just match the watt ratings approximately.
Edit: also look at Voicemeeter if you want to duplicate an audio signal to two different outputs.
This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...
http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI
http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO
http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG
All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.
I've been thinking about buying a pair of semi quality headphones for a while now. The DT770 seems like the best choice for it's price but I'm very new to all of this so I don't really understand most of this stuff.
Budget: Around 250€, but for a good reason I can up it a bit.
Source: PC only. Probably.
Isolation: I'll use them solely at home so not too necessary. Though it would be great if it blocked out my roommates voice(from the next room) if we're in the same voice chat.
Type: Full-size.
Balance: A bit of bass is alright but I'd like them balanced.
Past headphones: Some cheap <50€ stuff..
Preferred Music: Any and everything.
So unless you guys have so brilliant ideas I think I'm going with the DT770, but I'd need some advice with the amplifiers. A friend of mine suggested the FiiO E07K but since I'll almost definitely will use it only on my desktop would something like E09K be a better choice? Like I said, I'm fucking clueless when it comes down to these so all help is appreciated.
Links for clarity:
E07K
E09K
Or both?
Thanks in advance.
My first and most idiot-proof MP3 player: Creative NOMAD MuVo 128 MB MP3 Player. Yes, an indomitable ONE HUNDRED TWENTY-EIGHT MEGABYTES. Absolute INSANITY.
Other keys features: no display, hot red color, plays MP3 AND WMA, and holds 4 whole hours of WMA music. What more do you need?
The icing on the cake? I knew nothing about audio formats, so I would convert all of my songs to the lowest possible bit-rate. I used to brag about how many songs I could cram on that thing. Cringe-worthy in retrospect.
As for giveaways, I would suggest this DAC or this amp.
Actually, just spend $17 more dollars and raffle this.
Background!
What I own so far:
What I'm looking to get/upgrade to:
Some extra info:
Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.
The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.
If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.
Hey! I'm trying to hook up my PC setup to my new Samsung MU7000 TV via its TOSLINK (optical) connection.
I have two monitor speakers and a sub connected to a FiiO E09K amplifier, and a pair of RCA cables running from the amp to this DAC, which is connected to the TV via an optical cable.
I either get static or a mid-frequency hum, even when I've tinkered with the settings on the TV. Any clue where I've gone wrong?
You want to separate the DAC and headphone amp and Speaker amp sections. Trying to find an all in one is never good.
I'd go Odac RCA version ($170) + FiiO E09K ($100) + Emotiva Mini X100 ($190)
That way you can use the 3.5mm and RCA outputs of the Odac with no splitters and feed both the E09K for headphones and the Mini X100 at the same time.
Have you considered the HD600's or HD650's? The 700's you should really listen to before you consider buying. They are a bit "unique" in their implementation and some people just can't get into the way it sounds (me included)
Tube Vs Solid state is a taste thing. If you can sample a few, do so. Just know tubes distort sound in a warm and loving way.. but are inaccurate. If you want accuracy you need a solid state.
If the amp didn't have to be HUGE the SMSL SA50 for $66 would also work
Is this the E07K + E09K combo? (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417724915&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e7 + http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0H50ZT2069A3FRNX3AXW ?)
If so... Do they come with original packaging? I'm assuming 8-9/10 cosmetic condition and 10/10 functionality?
So would you recommend something like this?, then?
Hi, I know absolutely nothing about audio power amplifier and came here in hope for some help.
I have a Beyerdynamic 770 Pro and want to fix an amplifier to it, I have checked most of FIIIO E09K ( http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-De.../dp/B008J26ZL4 ) but every time I check up reviews or YouTube videos then fiioe17 is always included.
I'm guessing it's because the E09K is not DAC included, but I dont really know what kind of difference it makes. I understand it converts the signals, but I dont get what that does in practic.
So I decided to look at amplifiers with DAC included and came up with either FIIO E10K or Hegel Super(this one is more expensive but there's a 50% discount on it).
Which one should I choose? All help is greatly appreciated.
The headphones are connected to my computer, I'm not going to use an amplifier for my phone or laptop. And I dont have a sound card
DAC: Schiit Modi
Crossover/DSP: Mini DSP 2x4
Powered Speakers: Emotiva Airmotiv 6S
Subwoofer: Polk PSW10
Headphones, open/inside: Sennheiser HD650
Headphones, bassy/portable: V-Moda M100
Headphones, IEM: Echobox Finder X1
Portable headphone amp: Fiio E07K
Bedroom speakers: Emotiva Airmotiv 4S (6S was the upgrade for the main setup)
If you're wondering what a DAC is, it's the processor that converts the digital music to waveform before it gets to the amp. Your sound card usually does this job, but you can spend $30-2300 on getting better sound - Behringer UCA202 for improvement over on-board sound to Schiit Yggdrasil for deep pockets.
Edit: Car: Audison bit.ten, Alpine PDX amps, Hertz HSK 165XL component speakers (4x100w), Image Dynamics IDMax12 subwoofer(1x1200w)
Fiio E10K at $75 or the E07K at $89
Both offer excellent performance.
If you want something decent to go with your headphones, get a FiiO DAC/Amp combo. I have the E07K and it's great with my old FA's and my new DT 770s
This USB DAC Amp has worked wonders for me.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
A DAC/AMP combo will make a huge difference. I have almost the same headphones as you at work, and love my Aune T1 http://i.imgur.com/O9cVWal.jpg . I listen about 4 hours a day so it was a worth while investment for me at $200. I put a better Genalex Gold Lyon tube in it for $35 too. Sounds incredible, can't belive what I was missing.
A Fiio EO7K would be about half that at $89. Portable, pretty good sound but you really got to crank it with my DT990s.
Aune T1 - http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411543816&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Aune+t1
Fiio EO7K -http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411543301&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=E07k
Oops, I meant E07k, which is a DAC&AMP, not the E09K. But anyway..
Pe 50€ non esiste nulla di decente nuovo. Se quello è il tuo budget prova a orientarti sull'usato: personalmnte consiglio delle soundistick II/III. In seguito valuta anche l'acquisto di una scheda audio esterna come questa
I received them 2 hours ago. The HFI 780s are uncomfortable as fuck. I usually wear my headphones 8 hours a day so even if I liked them, I would not keep them. However, I don't like the way they sound. They are too "neutral" and not as punchy as the DT 770 Pros. The 770 Pros are so comfortable, you almost forget you are wearing them.
I have a 5 year old mainboard and the soundcard is probably bad. I have been listening to a lot of songs and they aren't loud enough.
People recommend the Fiio E07K for them. What's your opinion on this?
Mostly just a question at the end. Asked and got advice on the topic before.
Budget: $300 +- 50
Source: PC, Sometimes HTC One M8
Requirements for isolation: None
Preferred Types of Headphones: Fully over the ear.
Preferred Tonal Balance: No clue really
Past Headphones: Bose qc15
Preferred Music: Listen to mostly alternative rock, some trap.
Location: US
QUESTION: So i found HD650s on ebay all around the price of 350 used. It is a little out of my budget but my last headphones lasted me 3 years so i dont mind the price. First question is do NEED an amp to use them, or can i just use my computer/phones output. Second question: is that price ok and do i have anything to worry about, should i just buy new HD598s? If i do need an amp or some other equipment what should i look up so i know what im doing/getting into. I have no clue what amps or anything else do/are. Saw this 2-1 on the reccomended page plus it looks like something i could carry around if i did want to bring them places :http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6 , is this all i would need if i got the HD650's?
Edit: also are the HD598's outdated? I remember seeing them when i was looking at my bose qc15s
Edit2: Ok just looked up what Amps and DACs are and feel fine getting one, is the one linked above ok for now? Also do amps and dacs require an input that i would need prior knowlege too or are the settings easy to figure out
I got the black because those are the ones I wanted for the longest time and they match my setup nicely, but the ones you got do look pretty sweet. Right now I'm torn, between which DAC/Amp to get that fits within my price range. Right now, I'm looking at the Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC or the Fiio E07K Andes USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amp.
USB OTG works for my setup.
.
Nexus 5 (Stock/Rooted) > USB OTG to USB Adapter > USB Type A to Type B Mini Cable
> Fiio E07K Andes USB DAC Headphone Amp > Audio-Technica ATH-M50x.
There's always this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
Thanks for the reply :D I currently have a Creative Sound Blaster Z in my PC at the moment. I didn't know a huge amount about sound cards or how they improve audio quality when I bought it, just that it did improve sound and that I loved (and desperately needed) the audio control panel and how easy it is to switch between speakers/headphones. So I guess I have that going for me. And when I say $60, I mean that's what I have in my pocket at the moment that I'd feel comfortable spending, not my be-all end-all budget. Now that I think about it, I'd much rather wait and save up instead of getting something that I'll inevitably replace with something better. I've learned and learned and learned not to cheap out on audio equipment. Do you imagine I'd see enough improvement with the E07 and my phone to be worth it, or do you think I should eventually get a dedicated music player as well? I plan to get a desktop amp later on, I just feel like my mobile music rig could be greatly improved. :)
Looking for a dac/amp for the HD598's, currently looking at the Fiio E10K or Fiio E07K
Budget - Under £100
Source - PC, maybe a Galaxy Tab but for now looking for something for home use
Location - UK/England
I'm fairly new to this stuff and just trying to get the most out of my current headphones
Something like this might fit your bill, but I can't guarantee it'll work with the Nex5X.
I'm new to headphones, dacs, and amps and I had a couple of questions. Can I use something like this headset adapter to combine my headphones and modmic into 1 audio cable going to this dac&amp? I'm trying to reduce the amount of cables I have to run to my computer which is in a closet in my home theater room where I play a few games, stream videos, and watch blu rays. Also, can I add a USB 3.0 hub before the dac&amp? The hub would be helpful if I want to get away from my wireless keyboard and mouse. My plan is for this to all go into an armrest space in my recliner and just have one USB cable going to my desktop about 8 feet away. I'm completely open to other ideas to accomplish this if this sounds terrible.
I have 2 cards. I have a portable usb amp/dac, i just select it as output in mate, and good to go. My fiio usb/amp/dac works to drive a more power hungry headphones and has no laptop noise.
Plus with it being USB, it just shows up as an audio card in linux and works with my phone line in when I'm traveling also.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/
I have an older one that cost a tad more, but newer models came down in price.
I recommend this guy. Low noise floor, and also can be used as an amp. Just plug it into your usb port and you're good to go! But, this could be something for the future because it's at least an extra 70 bucks depending on the current price.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
Oppo-PM3 vs Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 ohm?>
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
And would this amp be enough?
Which would be better for listening to hip hop and punk?
The Oppo-PM3 is retail (400) and I can get the DT 770 off Amazon for $150.
Fiio E10k is another good option, or their portable E07K.
Coming up a little bit, you can get the Dragonfly also.
EDIT: Sorry, updated to amazon UK instead of US.
What about this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Andes-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=pd_cp_ce_1
It's the new E7. Only 7 pounds more than E10.
About the loudness, I can order them from Amazon, try them, if the sound isn't vastly improved, I will just return them.
Budget - Flexible ~$175. Not going for something high-end
Source - Laptop - Gigabyte P34Gv2. I don't have an amp, but would be open to suggestions alongside headphones (separate budget for amp - ~$90 looking at the Fiio E07k portable)
Requirements for Isolation - Not too much leakage - I live in a dorm
Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear
Preferred tonal balance - Bass is the main focus, but still somewhat balanced
Past headphones - AT M40x
Preferred Music - Mainly electronic (dubstep, DnB, trap) but also some Alternative
I've been interested in getting the 598's, but I've read that they may not have the best bass (and are open headphones).
Also looked at the DT770's, but
I would suggest you pickup a FiiO E07K. It's a great DAC and you can pick one up on Amazon for $89 here: http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368643467&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e07k
This is what I use to power my headphones. It will have plenty of power for those ATH-M50s.
There's currently a Fiio E07K going on amazon for £50, I'd grab that asap if I were you, direct link here, or search ebay. DACs are a difficult thing to get right under £50 because, generally, you have to start looking at unknown brands or models. If head-fi doesn't have a thread on it, I'm always wary :P
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419505391&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1419505391&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.
Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.
Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:
Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468928854&amp;sr=8-48&amp;keywords=3+channel+amplifier
Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929161&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=sundown+e12+d2
Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929607&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box
Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier
Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929693&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=amplifier+kit
Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.
The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.
Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.
Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.
Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line
Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?
Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box
I've read about that auto leveling, it didn't seem to save the stock sub lol. (Though I think it blew when I was in an accident and got hit right in the driver-side rear.. they told me it was because I had the punch maxed out) Also, I don't really need it to go loud, so the stock sub was never a problem; I barely put it over 20-25 and it's loud enough for me and the wife.
I was looking at amps and it seems like they are around $150-250, but I would have no clue which one to get, that wouldn't blow all the speakers/be enough to power the sub. Any suggestions? I have wire schematics for taking apart the connectors going to the stock amp, so I wouldn't be opposed to just doing an in-place upgrade if I can for this price range.
And, looking at cheaper amps just for the sub, couldn't I get one of these two? Again, I know nothing, but I feel like I could use the existing wiring from the head to the amp by cutting the sub wires out of the connectors on the stock amp and connecting them to the output wires that run to the sub. Then I can cut the connector off in the trunk, put those 4 wires into a high level connector for whichever amp, and then run power separately. Then, with the sub amp in the trunk, I can run wires from it to the sub in whatever form necessary (IE, the BOSS one below gives 600w when bridged, so I would literally wire it as I am now)
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-R1002-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNKI/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
Is my thought process in the right direction, or am I way out in left field?
EDIT: Also, couldn't I use an LC2iB in the trunk to hook up another amp to the pre-existing wiring without bypassing the stock amp? They seem to be about $90, and if I can get an amp specifically for the sub for $50-60, I'd be okay with the $150 range
I haven't actually bought a LOC yet, going to in the next couple days, just pulling some of the wire into the vehicle, and mounting the amp. Still wanting on the sub to arrive.
Also, I'd prefer not to have to pull the head unit either, becomes much more of a pain in the ass. If I can just tap off one, or 2 rear speakers that would be ideal. I just don't know much about it.
EDIT: Another reason i had not bought a LOC yet, is my Amp has a jack where you can input High Level Inputs from my speakers. Although someone had suggested getting a LOC.. Is that really necessary, if one is basically built in?
Heres the amp
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pe_386430_195257150_TE_dp_1
No experience with their speakers, but I like their head units. Better sound quality than Pioneer and Kenwood at their respective price points, just without some of the stupid useless features (looking at you, Pioneer). Their amplifiers are good as well, but they're a bit overpriced (Rockford Fosgate is my go-to brand for amps).
Rockford Fosgate offers a 500 watt (RMS, not peak) Class-D amp for under $150 on Amazon. I push a sealed 12 with it in my Explorer. Plenty of bass, for me at least. And it's clean. Link
I don't advise you use either of those amps. If you can spend ~150, get the Rockford R500x1d. I have the R500-1D and it is one of the better amps I've had. Also, the Boss amp being a Class A/B, would do all typesof wonders on your electrical
I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.
The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.
Actual Power output is one. That Boss says 1100 watts on it, but I remember someone (Steve Meade?) put it on the amp dyno and it really only put out ~250 watts. Boss over-inflates their numbers.
Sure you can get the kicker set you linked, they are some of kickers lower line, each sub only rated for 250 watts RMS. For two 15s in a box, you get what you pay for.
For those kickers, I would recommend this amp https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524364575&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+r500x1d
Its a bit more in price than the boss, but relativity cheap when it comes to good, reputable amps.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416351284&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+500+watt+amp
Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539818799&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.
Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?
Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497924801&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=POlk+DB+6501
Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.
I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.
ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497925174&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier
I'm so sorry for bugging you but should I send back the fosgate amp for the one you linked? Or will it not matter much or at all with those daytons. Just wondering since the fosgate was 30 dollars more than the one you linked, what the difference would be between the amps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D7vnzbTTEKNZR
Don’t listen to him.... save an extra $50 and get a Rockford Prime amp.
It’ll do rated power and won’t start a fire.
For your sub amp, I recommend a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D or something similar in the 500 watt RMS range. You could go a little bigger for the amp but those subs are only rated at 250 watts each. The 1200 watt rating is a marketing ploy.
Are you only looking to upgrade your mids and not highs? I strongly recommend going with a component set like the Morel Maximo 6's. I'm assuming you want a set of mids for the back doors? If so you could get the coax version of those Morel Speakers for the rear doors.
As far as headunits go, pick something from a big name brand (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.) that fits your connectivity requirements(bluetooth? CDs? USB?) and has RCA outputs for at least 4 channels(front and sub) preferably 6(front, rear, and sub).
Do you have your wiring figured out? If not, make sure you factor the cost of wiring into your budget. Looking at about $100 - $150 for wiring depending on brands/size.
Edit: Keep in mind that while purchasing products from Amazon is cheaper, it will not usually get you a warranty so if stuff breaks or doesn't work out of the box, Rockford Fosgate or whoever the Manufacturer is most likely won't cover it or fix it.
Find an amp that does 300 watts at 4 ohms and you're good. A few examples: Rockford Alpine Rockville
So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?
This will work well.
What's the RMS power of the JL sub? I would recommend this for the speakers and this for the sub. Rockford tends to underrate their amps so you would be getting quite a bit more power than what they're rated at and you can't beat it for the money.
Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.
I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE
This the one?
I agree with the other commenter, don't go with that one. The good amps are CEA-2006 rated for the power they advertise. Other amps may say they can put out a certain power but it may not be true.
&#x200B;
This link is for a Rockford Fosgate (name brand) amp that puts out 300W+ RMS at 4 ohms. I have a RF 1200 watt amp and its birth sheet said it really is capable of 1250W of clean RMS power. If you get this one, it will have something similar, it may be certified for 520W (@ 2 ohms) or something, which would be over 300W RMS for 4 ohms.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67758_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R500X1D.html
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=car+audio+amplifier&qid=1555008509&s=gateway&sr=8-6
&#x200B;
This amp is Alpine, good brand, I've owned one in the past, but allows speaker level inputs if you need to do that.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html
This one is a Kenwood amp that also puts out 300W RMS, but it costs more than the RF and Alpine ones above
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HRA3CZA6SSS9VXANAW8V
Hmmm...
Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.
The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.
The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD
The subs are 220 for a pair. The box is 140 or so. That's only 360. Two of these amps by Fosgate would be bad ass.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462890345&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Rockford+mono&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51LDCoHZllL&amp;ref=plSrch.
they are 125 each on amazon. That's only 510. Go to knukonceptz. Buy 4 gauge and rca cables and everything you need for install. Can't be more than 100 even with the best shit. That's 620 for something that will literally shut down anyone under 1000 bucks. Have fun
Alright so I've got KnuKonceptz wire now, but will THIS work with THIS?
I wanted to give an update.
(http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
Am I missing anything?
Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.
Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)
Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier
Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component
Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial
Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT
hey, quick question. I'm looking at buying this subwoofer and amp. Would it work?
Parts list:
Woofa
Amp
ANL Fuse Holder
Ground Terminal
8AWG wire
Carpet
Combined with some wire I had on hand for the speaker and 12v connections - I like southwire for price/performance.
All connections crimped, soldered, and marine heatshrinked.
I tapped into an open KOEO fuse on the trunk's fusebox for the amp remote line. Unfortunately this means the sub turns on and off with the key, not the headunit, but I'm fine with that.
Wired the voice coils in parallel to end up with a 2ohm load.
Box internal volume is 10.5"x12"x18" - about 1.3 cubic feet. Image Dynamics recommends 1 cu. ft. in a sealed box, but 1.8 cu.ft. for "audiophiles" in a sealed box. I'm assuming that the audiophile in this case just means if we're going for only sq and not spl? I split the difference to end up with 1.3 cu. ft.
Running at 500w RMS it's pretty dang solid. Actually got off my butt and set the gain with a meter and 50Hz tone and not just by ear like I usually do.
My big challenge is that I need to figure out how to adjust or bypass the stock sub crossover from the OEM headunit/gateway. It's way too low, and I have a big ~40Hz hole in my bass. If anyone has insight as to how that works on the w211 Harmon Kardon system I'll be in your debt. Haven't dug into it yet.
You'll need an amp to drive those. I'd recommend an O2 or a Schiit Magni.
Out of everything you have listed I think you should get these instead.
DT 990 Premium (250ohm):
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Applications/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410317&amp;sr=1-1
ATH-M50x:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410360&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ath-m50
As for Amp/DACS:
Schiit Magni/Modi:
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410429&amp;sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CICPN0K/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=042YMDTAE4G9HN1Q9AF0&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
It's not necessary but I would recommend one. Plenty of options here but you'll want to budget around $100. Schiit Magni is hard to beat at this price range: LINK
Is there a, non-portable version of the Fiio E11? I have been considering the Magni Headphone Amplifier
OK...so you really only need an amp then.
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418235112&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=headphone+amp
There ya go. Right in budget and awesome.
Is THIS the amp in question? The magni can drive the 600s well? I've heard some mixed reviews on it. Would I just be wasting my money? Would there be a significant sound difference over the HD598s with no amp? Enough to justify the $250 price difference? That could be within my price range considering I found the HD600s for $300, and the amp for $80.
A few headphones that have piqued my interest are:
I don't want to replace my HD 595s with the newer HD 598s as the design flaws, and cheap plastic, still seem to be an issue. After about 7-8 years of daily but gentle use my 595s have cracked on both sides (not my picture, but similar damage) and now are only held together with duct tape =). Also, I wouldn't mind an upgrade - as long as it lasts a decade or longer.
For the headphone amp, I was considering the Schiit Magni, but I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks!
Gaming is a totally different story from what the people here are buying their headphones for (mostly). Personally, if you just want a solid pair of headphones, I like and always recommend the Audio Technica ATH M50. Now, these will plug just fine into your pc BUT if you want some proper listening gear use the rest of that money and a bit more to get the Schiit Magni headphone amp and the Modi DAC. If they're gaming headphones though, you really don't need that.
I assume you want an amp that costs $200? Rule of thumb for buying subs and amps is that the amp will always cost more. You will not find a suitable amp for $200
I lied. -D9601 2,400 WATTS CLASS-D MONO AMP by Pioneer http/www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_joeWtb12TCA4Y not sure if bridgeable due to Amazon's lack of information
I have a [pioneer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zHh6wbD89X5A8), I wanted the sub I purchased because I was under the impression that I could get a sealed box. That wasn't true, sonic electronics had incorrect info listed. I was going to purchase a sealed box for the new sub since I'm getting credit for the return. I've never used the sub
From the sidebar, here ya go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479707951&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=9601+pioneer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51YozvhmIYL&amp;ref=plSrch
This amp with knukonceptz 4 gauge.
And a soundqubed hds315 or sundown sa15 is what I would recommend. The hds315 is on sale in 5 days. The amp will be perfect
In terms of a DAC, I run a Schiit Fulla 2, which is an amp/dac combo for 100USD. I know Fiio also offers something similar at the same price.
I have my computer hooked up via USB to my Fulla. The DAC output (on the back) is then connected to my '86 RX-9V that I got for 200 bucks, and I use the 1/4" jack that is already on the Fulla for my headphones since it also functions as an amp.
There are a lot if low-budget USB DACs out there that you could hook to the receiver. You will need to invest in cables and such though, so it's hard for me to say if the way I did it was the cheapest way, but for the performance I get, I feel like I have spent a relatively small amount.
You could easily get an old receiver for around 50 bucks, then spend the other 50 on a small entry-level USB DAC (like this or this), and hook them up with a 3.5mm to RCA (or whatever termination you need for whatever receiver you get). It won't be the most powerful or best sounding system in the world, but it will get the job done.
I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.
I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?
FiiO E10K (Link)
Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)
AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)
Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:
Hey guys,
The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.
Here is my current equipment at my work desk:
These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
https://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC3-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/
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Hi! I just recently discovered that there is better quality music than what I had been experiencing and I'm hoping to start out a nice setup. I was thinking of buying the Nuforce uDac3 (link below if you are not familiar with it) and I was wondering if this is enough. I have a few pairs of nice headphones (audio Technica ath-900x, Sennheiser hd598, brainwavs hm5). Do I need to buy new headphones/speakers too? I mainly listen to rap/hip-hop with an emphasis on Eminem.
NuForce uDAC3 Mobile USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MUq6ybMNCCGAQ
Do you mean this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
or this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4VJNR4/ref=psdc_10980761_t1_B00KVVX2QW
also https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472741816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+headphone+amplifier
Hello, all. I'm planning on stepping my audio set up by a notch. Currently I have a pair of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG) with a subwoofer from a cheap Insignia 2.1 combo powered by the Lepai LP-2020A+ Amp(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). And the headphones I have is the Sennheiser RS 170 Wireless Headphones.
Components I want to upgrade: Headphones, sub woofer, a DAC and an amp to drive the new headphones.
I see the Massdrop HD6XX for $200 and am interested, then I also see the DT990 Pro 250 ohm for $125 from Newegg and now I'm hesitating which one I should get. As for the Dac/amp it could be a combo or separate devices, but I'm wondering if therw's a way for me to connect both headphone amp and my speaker amp to the same DAC output(Could the Monoprice 111567 Desktop Headphone Amplifier be the solution to this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW). Finally I want to get a decent sub woofer to go with the bookshelf speakers.
Ah yea sorry I didn't notice that you only wanted closed lol. Well the best DAC/Amp (that is also cheap) I can think of is the Monoprice one.
> https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469992339&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+dac+amp
The reason this thing is better than most cheap dac amps is because it's not USB powered. So it might not be the best solution for a semi-portable set up, but I think it's good if you really need a DAC/Amp.
Grab the Monoprice amp from Newegg. $100ish. Great sound for price, mine died fast, but I'm in the minority there.
Grab a Modmic. $60ish. Absolutely fantastic.
And, the headphones themselves..... HD 599s. Decent price, good sound, absolutely atrocious looks. And a removeable cable.
You can upgrade all of this (except the modmic, that's basically perfect) for even better, but there's a good start.
I'm currently working on sourcing and testing all the "external sound cards" I can get my hands on (i.e., DAC/AMP with mic pass-through) but I don't have full data there yet.
Like this guy?
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
I'm wondering if I need something in between as far as features go, as I'm realizing that I'd really like to be able to run a basic microphone input through the device as well. Just a 1/8" or 1/4" type connection, nothing fancy like the XLR connections. Wouldn't ever be used for anything more than online voice communications.
Okay, found some mix-and match pieces that will do the same thing for less:
This headphone amp has multiple inputs and pre outputs for your speakers:
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
https://smile.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/
You'll need cables: a toslink cable from the TV to the D03, an RCA-3.5mm cable from the D03 to the 111567. A USB A to USB B (large) (also known as a USB printer or device cable) from your PC to the 111567. Maybe a 3.5mm adapter for your headphones. Whatever cables your speakers use to connect to RCA jacks.
I've found two other options over the stack you're using and the Audioengine D1 I mentioned:
Sometime last year, I bought a used monoprice amp and an used smsl a50, I recently noticed when my speakers are at low volume it creates a quiet static sound. What causes this and how can I fix it?
Speaking strictly functionality, that is what I want... but it's hideous. Lol. Thank you for the recommendation.
I think I'm leaning towards something along these lines but I still have to plug and unplug the headphones. At least it would be on top of the desk.
Currently I have this amp and I'm getting interference through the AUX cables and not the usb side. Is there a different amp that has multiple USB channels?
So this amp is what you're recommending? Will it be good for gaming and such? Thank you!
Like people have said vinyl is a for those who love to tinker, and to hunt for that new record or upgraded component. If you just want to be able to listen to great sounding music and not worry about the stuff in the middle, download some FLAC files, buy a nice USB DA converter and enjoy, there is noting wrong with digital audio. If you still want to see what its all about, surf the craigslist list, get a turn table. then get a $30 pre-amp from Amazon, and a small headphone amp. the one i linked to actually has a built in USB DA converter so you can get your good sound card too. That will be the cheapest way to get in to vinyl, for just over $200 if you end up having to pay a high price for the turntable on craigslist list. those components i linked to with a decent vintage turntable and your nice headphones will sound great.
Pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075043&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=phono+preamp
headphone amp: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_23?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075678&amp;sr=1-23&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
Hmm, I'm not sure I'm really recommending it as much as letting you know that it exists. :) There are a few reviews of it on the net, including a rambling one from ZReview. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUFQgodxyNk
Here it is at Amazon.
Nice! was looking for either the monoprice one a friend told me it was great for the price, or the O2 from massdrop.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Thanks for the response! What are your thoughts on the HD650 compared to HIFIMAN HE-400I - currently at $250.
Also, I'm not very familiar with amps, so would an extra $100 investment be worth it, or would the ones you recommended (I think these) be just fine?
How cheap and what is the impedance of your headphones? If $100 is reasonable then I recommend these two units.
$100 - Micca OriGen
$105 - Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier.
E10K is what I'd recommend, because it should have the power to drive any headphones you get, since some models have a 600-ohm impedance which need a load of power to use. The E10K can drive any future headphones you get just fine. The alternative to that is the Monoprice version which has even more power but can cost a little more.
The E12 is designed for portable use so I can;t guarantee it'll every headphone you get.
Hmmmm, looking at the Fiio E10K on Amazon after I made my last post and saw that instead of the normal $74.99 it sells for, it's now listing at $99. (I am hoping this is a temporary price jump).
The Monoproce Dac/Amp combo is $79.00 and gets some good love. It Might be worth a look.
Okay so I think that instead of the SD 793ii (ill return it) I'm getting the monoprice DAC and headphone amp, It seems like it would solve all of my problems, but I just cant seem to find the smsl-50 in a black finish anywhere....anyone have suggestions for something other then the SMSL at around the same price point in black finish? Or I could just get a cheap stand alone DAC for the signal coming out of my computer and buy This headphone amp. I will be listening to both my Turn table and Mac Pro Tower through the system.
Edit: words and stuff
Instead of getting a sound card just get a DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Much much much better sound and analog volume controls.
not sure I got this one and I like it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Would it be a good idea to pick up something along the lines of the Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier for the HE400i?
I ordered the TH-X00 from Massdrop, and I would like a quality setup for both my phones and speakers. Would the Marantz PM500M be a good choice to pair with my headphones while also powering some bookshelf speakers? I'm new to the hobby and trying to upgrade my current setup. Thanks for any help!
I recently purchased a Marantz PM5005 in Singapore. Looking at listings on Amazon, there seems to be a huge difference in price on Amazon US (499 USD) vs Amazon UK (162 GBP = 200 USD).
US: https://www.amazon.com/Marantz-PM5005-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00L1HN0FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483538586&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=marantz+pm5005
UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marantz-PM5005-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LUKN2C2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483538590&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=marantz+pm5005
Does anyone know why? Also I couldn't find much in the way of reviews online - would love to know where you all think it stands!
Undecided as of yet. Currently looking at a few options, the Yamaha gets a decent amount of praise, but I was really hoping to avoid the "big black box" though I am a function over form sorta person. The speakers should be 4ohm impedance but I'll test all that once the build is complete. Let me know if you have any suggestions, this is my first build and first "real" speakers. (currently have Pioneer SP-BS22-LR driven off some garbage lepai amp)
Yamaha A-S301BL
Onkyo A-9010
Emotiva Fusion Flex
Marantz PM5005
This is the setup I am saving for. I don't have near the amount to spend on it, but it's a goal of mine to save enough. I want to set up a Turntable>Integrated Amp>Speaker station. Here it is:
U-Turn Orbit Plus ($309.00 USD) Or even a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon.
Mies i100 Integrated Amplifier ($312.18 USD) OR Marantz PM5005 Integrated Amplifier ($499.00 USD)
JBL LSR305 ($290.72 USD)
I'm thinking about spending $1,000-$1,500 which would be ideal for me. I really don't want powered speakers though, so can anyone recommend some passive speakers for around the same price? Any other suggestions would be nice.
Cheers!
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_91DyDbM7Q8D07
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPV7AH4/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g23_i1_sh
This is a super basic amp and portable. You may also want a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) as well assuming it's for a desktop computer setup.
This should be a decent intro level DAC/Amp combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=s9_hps_bw_g23_i2
I went with a Creative Sound Blaster. It replaced my broken headphone jack and improved audio. Just don't use the software. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004275EO4/ref=s9_hps_bw_g147_i16
And I also have this Fiio for using my Sennheiser HD280s at work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPD7KP8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I went a seperate route.
Once I got my speakers (w/ receiver), I bought a Fiio E17k AMP/DAC and a bluetooth adapter.
I plug the bluetooth adapter into the input on my AMP/DAC, and connect my receiver to the output from my AMP/DAC. Works great for playing music from any bluetooth device. I also have the AMP/DAC plugged into my PC via USB to use as a soundcard, and just have to hit the input button on the AMP/DAC to switch from AUX(bluetooth) to USB(computer).
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OwIMDbG4TDK4S
Hi there,
from personal experience I'd recommend the Sennheiser ie80 ($200 USD) with the Fiio E17K ($100 USD). :)
Budget is 100$. Headphones are ATH-M50xWH. Looking for a USB DAC for my Galaxy S5. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been looking at these which are a little over the budget but I might be able to swing it. I love bass but I don't want it to distort or silence/quiet any treble.
That would work perfectly. That way you aren't running the signal through two amp circuits.
Another option would be to go with a Fiio E17K, which has a 3.5mm line out which you could hook up to your speakers. It's smaller and more geared towards being portable, but I use the original E17 and it sounds great.
I have a Fiio Alpen 2 that is supposed to work on OTG for digital transfer of the music to the DAC/AMP (which is how I use in on my PC) but I've never got that function to work. It comes with a short headphone jumper cable though. Has plenty of power for my ATH-M50x's which are 38 ohms, the Crushers appear to be 32 so it would work well.
My best use of it has been with a tablet so my wife and I can watch a movie on planes with a splitter cable. The battery is good for 10+ hours on a charge.
$110, so dead on budget. But, unsurprisingly for a portable, it only has line out and headphone out. So same features as e.g. the $67 SMSL SD793-II. I really want a usable volume knob -I'm unfortunately using an Alessis RA-100 and, as I'm sure you can imagine, having a knob for each channel is a huge pain in the arse outside of a studio environment.
Hey guys, I recently got my first pair of "nice" headphones (Sennheiser 598 Cs) and was looking into getting a DAC/amp for them to use with my PC. I know this isn't specifically about headphones, but are there any good DAC/amp combos you would recommend?
Budget is ~$100, but any suggestions are welcome. My only caveat is it needs to have an AUX In port so I can route my mic through for reference audio. I've been looking at this one, but I have no experience in this area.
To drive headphones you'll need a USB DAC and a headphone amp. For $100 you're probably looking at a combination unit. The Schiit Fulla 2 fits into your budget.
You could also consider the Fiio E17K.
If you sit far from your console you'll also need a long cable!
If you got the Schiit Magni 2 you definitely need an amp because it only has RCA input. Most people get the Schiit Modi 2 with it, hence why they call it a Schiit stack. The Schiit combo isn't very mobile at all.
If you are looking for something to also use with a phone as well as on the laptop I would suggest the Fiio E17k or if you just want a laptop setup (for like working in an office) you could consider the Schiit Fulla 2.
I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find the "perfect" amp because most $100+ amps will be more than enough to power most headphones. Your computer
is technically enough to power them though it would sound much better through an amp/DAC combo (either as a single unit or separate amp and DAC units).
Sup Fam,
I currently own this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8
Is there a way to use this such that I can connect it to a CRT and get in game sound?
Looking for something more portable so the E09k might not work but through the Amazon questions I came across the Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xcNHzbAVTGQE2
Might try this option.
Should I get the Fiio E17k DAC/Headphone amp or would I be better off going with something else? I'm looking for a dac with a headphone amp for no more than $100. I would like it to be portable and have an aux in. Is this my best option or should I go with something else?
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481228769&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=e17k
I'm not sure where you are getting 27 CAD. On Amazon.ca it's $178 CAD... https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8. Anyways if you can get it for that price why not go for that?
Circling back around to this. Work work work.... Anyway. I'm looking at the following:
Channel Master CM-3020 Long Range VHF, UHF, FM and HDTV Antenna
CMSTCM7777 - CHANNEL MASTER CM-7777 Titan 2 Preamp (High Gain)
Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signal
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Should i get the below LTE Filter? Any other thoughts or suggestions?
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Channel Master LTE Filter Improves TV Antenna Signals
Post pictures of all the labeling. Use imgur.com and post a link.
Could be the power for something like this antenna amp.
> I just didn't want those crazy massive silver looking alien and antennas.
Well those silver alien antennas. Are the NORMAL average TV antenna that has been around for decades. Proven tech, and it works.
The newer flat antennas are new designs, and they have their time and place. In a metro environment where the TV signals are practically baking you.
At 50 miles, even amp'd you are pushing your limits.
The first rule of RF, anything RF. If you want it pretty, forget it!
> So my set up is a bit more complex and im still not done. I don't have a clue on how to ground it or anything or what to put where.
http://otadtv.com/installation/index.html#ground
>And I need my antenna to run to every coax cable in the house.
Do you have home runs to each antenna from some place?
You need something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505307172&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=distribution+amp
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-Internet-Signal-Booster/dp/B001EKCGT8/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505307172&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=distribution+amp
The thing is that you have an ACTIVE ANTENNA which needs power.
Antenna ---- cable--- lighting arrestor --- ground block --- power inserter for amp --- dist amp --- TV's
>Im not sure how u did everything in under an hour
Simple.. EXISTING DBS wiring was reused. Unbox antenna, snap elements into place, go to roof, loosen bolts on dish, pull up, throw off roof. Put in 6ft extension pipe in J mount, drill hole through J mount and pole, tighten. Put antenna on pole, aim, tighten, connect cable. Do scan on TV..Check! Tighten everything up good and tight. Tidy up cables with zip ties.. DONE! 55 channels, gross. That's everything of value and the cruft, minus a few LP/CD stations that are very low power and outside the beamwidth, plus one semi distant sort of next market/same market.
The thing is I've been doing RF work of some sort for DECADES. Antennas, cable, etc. is MY LIFE.
U want to use a pre amp right out of the antenna then in that closet u want to use an amplified splitter
Winegard LNA-200 Boost XT HDTV Preamplifier, TV Antenna Amplifier Signal Booster, HD Digital VHF UHF Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQN3R9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aIOUCb8Y0P3Z7
Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PI09SE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IOUCbA1M57E5
Thank you for the response! It caused me to go back and confirm that yes, it is pre-amped with a built-in. I tend to forget that.
I agree. I read up on this today and it seems my splitting situation is drastically reducing the signal downline. To address this, I purchased this today: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm thinking I will ditch the 2 splitters I showed you and install this off the power supply to the pre-amplifier. I will then split this signal 3 ways (leaving one port unused) to our 3 TVs we are primarily using.
This will basically leave me with the following setup: Signal --> Pre-Amplifier --> Distribution Amplifier --> 3 TVs
This this is the correct approach? Somebody else advised I setup 2 antennas on the roof, with one dedicated to VHF-Hi. I would rather not have to deal with obtaining and setting up an appropriately sized ladder again since it was a pain in the ass getting it 25ft up there in the first place.
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
I've since procured one of these (an Onn ONA16AV004 Digital Signal Amplifier):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DL27Y9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And one of these (a Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier) to replace my existing passive splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So, I learned there's a difference in VHF and UHF channels and the antennas one should get, and what used to be VHF around here, no longer is. Most of all my channels (in the 76102 area code) are in the UHF range, with just about 2 that remain VHF...and both of those are shown to be difficult to receive in my area.
I also ensured my antenna is facing the best direction, using my iPhone's compass to more accurately match what degrees the various websites say it should be facing.
And with the Signal Amplifier, I now get all the channels when I'm in the attic, with the VHF channels having about a 30% signal strength. The rest are about 50% - 75%.
However, when I test it out at the end of the line-drop before the splitter (which is in the basement, about 20-25 feet below), I lose all the VHF channels. The rest of the channel strength remain more-or-less the same (if they're degraded much, my TV isn't really showing me exactly how much. It pretty much just reads "bad/normal/good").
Now, with the Distribution Amplifier, I test at the end of those lines (basically, the living room and bedrooms) and signal loss is more substantial, and I lose more channels that were originally in that 50% range when in the attic. But at least I get a lot more channels than I did before...
Any suggestions of what else I could try (short of going up to the roof)?
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To answer questions:I live in an ~100 year old house, so the walls are thick, but the gable where I placed the antenna in the attic is relatively thin (compared to the rest of the house). It just has to receive signal through douglas fur wood and asbestos tiles. The antenna is probably about 30' off the ground.
Most of coax is ran near to other power lines, and I'm considering adjusting those to ensure they aren't overlapping or touching. One of them is ran over fluorescent lights.
Here are the rabbit ear results:https://www.rabbitears.info/searchmap.php?request=result&study_id=22534
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Thanks so much!
Yep, you'll pick up the split. That's where getting the antenna up as high as you can and doing everything you can to minimize signal attenuation after it hits your antenna comes into play, because you're not receiving either broadcast at full strength with a directional or yagi antenna at that point.
I actually came up with a solution at my grandpa's house (one of my earlier antenna installs) because I was running into so much signal loss in his older home with the way the attic was finished off, with chicken wire embedded in the old plaster: an antenna array. I used two antennas, one pointed north and one pointed west, that run into a splitter/combiner. THAT did the trick, after a year of dicking around with different aerials and positions in the attic following the initial digital broadcast transition. Trick was that feedlines to the splitter/combiner have to be EXACTLY the same length so there's no interference. I found out later on when I got my amateur radio license that this is something done commonly with ham radio setups, but you don't see it often with TV antennas. Since then, I've borrowed from my ham radio knowledge pretty heavily for OTA TV antenna installs and it's been very valuable.
Now, if you're ever looking to serve more than those two TVs, you'll need this. This is a little lower end model, but does the job just fine for 90% of people. No need to go with an Arris just for OTA TV. Love 'em and will absolutely use 'em when they're left behind by the cable company, but they're not necessary in most cases.
It's the FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier.
links for the lazy
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B0006NL5SM
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B003N0XDT4
This is what I have. A lower end model would probably achieve the same effect but I can't say for certain. However using thay with a micro usb on the go cable works great!
This one and that one are a good place to start if you want a dac/amp
FiiO E7. It will let you take it with you as well, for when you want to use your headphones away from the computer.
If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.
Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.
That's still for a computer, though. Looks too big to fit in your pocket. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344016364&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fiio+e7) however would be good if you really wanted to take your huge ass audiophile headphones on the go and have them sound good. More than anything, I find that my headphones (Sennheiser HD 380s) are just too big to walk around with.
But if the device used to play is a computer, then Arve ,your comment looks pretty awesome.
In that price range the only things I can think of is the FiiO E7 or E10. Those are both a DAC and an amp though, so either will more or less replace the E11, although you could bypass the amp in either and run a line to your E11 if you really wanted too.
Alternatively, you could buy the ODAC from JDS Labs for $150, which would be your best option. It doesn't include an amp so you'll have to run it to your E11.
You could probably also pick up an internal pci soundcard (I see the ASUS Xonar thrown around a lot but I know nothing about it) for much cheaper. But I'm an external kind of guy, and usually internal sound cards aren't recommended (due to potential noise issues similar to what you are currently experiencing).
This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.
I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.
As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.
/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.
Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out
>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.
In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.
You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.
All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.
I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.
.
.
.
^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.
I don't think ANY motherboard has a good enough sound card for headphones because you can hear every background noise that poor insulation involves (and most motherboards have that problem). The problem with dedicated sound cards is that they're most of the time geared towards pros and very expensive and packed with features you won't need, I think you should get a USB DAC if you're not bothered by the fact that you're going to have something outside of the computer's case, the advantage is that you can use it on every computer you own while it still works. The FiiO E7 is a popular choice because it's portable and cheap for what it does (DAC + amplifier), you can get it on Amazon or elsewhere. If you want to go for a dedicated sound card, browse head-fi.org, I cannot really help you with that, I've never found them that interesting.
EDIT: btw, to answer your question about headphones, try the Sennheiser HD-25s if you want to get good isolation (so that you can use it in public and not bother anyone and not be bothered too much), they're excellent monitoring headphones for the price and nobody complains too much about the sound AFAIK, the main problem is the clamp, they can hurt after a few hours and over-the-ear headphones are more comfortable by design. If you're really on a budget or want to expand your possibilities, get Koss Porta Pros, they're cheap and they're really good for the price (less than 30$ IIRC), or Sennheiser PX-100, these are both smaller and more portable open headphones. Good luck anyway, and don't make the bet of not trying any headphones live before buying, I never regretted getting my HD-25s, but I wasn't aware that the clamp might hurt that much.
Here's a possible solution. Relatively expensive, though.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4
Sounds like you need an external amplifier instead - something like the FiiO E7 should work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4
Or maybe the FiiO E5: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P9EQH8
Thx for the fast answer. I took a look at the schiit magni it appears to be a very good amp for little money. The problem is I live in Europe (sorry for not being specific in my question) so the amp+shipping would cost me around 150 $.
So I took a look at some over amps and amp/DAC's . What do you think about the FiiO E7 Amp/DAC
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382207136&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+E7
If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.
I have a pretty cheap portable amp (Fiio E7) that I use when playing music from my phone. Works surprisingly well.
I dont remember the impedence on 598 but if it is low enough, which I believe it is, I would only get http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile I run this for my akg401s if however you ever upgraded to something higher impedance say sen650+ you could simply get the amp that that dac plugs into later down the road (have listens to this setup on 650s and it's beautiful). Amp I'm referring to http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115 .
Two great dac/amps:
The uDac by NuForce for $130
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323796239&amp;sr=8-1
And for an extremely tight budget, The HiFiMan HM101
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066AHES4/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
Thanks, that does look like a good option. How would this NuForce compare? It seems to have the save 24bit/96kHz spec and I like the fact that it has a headphone jack.
In the near future of buying some pc stuff and other peripherals, i came across a thought of "which DAC for my dream speakers should i use?" So I plan on getting these sweet puppies:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H0MQYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I5C4DPHEWA9D4
But obviously to get the best sound, I'll need a DAC or an amplifier.
Here's some I have in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I1S7F043SU6CQK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I1FYZ24Y1G14AO
Help me choose? i want to get a good DAC but I really want to get the cheaper option. HEALP
EDIT: Here's the original thread for better formatting.
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC2-Digital-Audio-Converter/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1341804959
This is good for $119. But if you're willing to spend a little more, go for the Audioengine D1. It's a sexy beast. Neither of these are gonna be going very far though. You could transport them with you when you're traveling but not when you're on a plane.
http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Premium-24-Bit-DAC/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1341804881
I'm dying for that D1 and a pair of Audioengine A2s. It's between the A2s and the M10s. I can't decide.
Yeah my Jeep puddles up pretty good near the front which worries me and I will keep all that in mind. For reference purposes the subs and amp that I bought are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Package-Wrangler-Kicker-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00KJ0ZI4O
http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538114641&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=amp+car
I'm using that amp, and I forgot the name of the sub im using.
Here you go. I think it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-BV9757B-Double-DIN-Motorized-Touchscreen/dp/B00HZA6E6W
And here are the cheapo amps I think im gonna get.
https://www.amazon.com/EV4-400-EVOLUTION-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLEE4/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487419851&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=4+channel+amp
and
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487446228&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=monoblock+amp&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-5500
Online reviews are useless. You dont know the background of the reviewer. Might be the only sub he has ever heard. Also people can get paid for their reviews.
Probably the worst amp you can buy and has 4 stars.
I'm just wondering out of curiosity... Can Amazon reviews not be trusted? There are barely any negative reviews about the Boss amplifier
I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Equalizer:26$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&amp;smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839
2 speakers: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Amp: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Wiring: 16$
Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
anyone else get a kick out of pic 3 for that boss amp?... installed in the cooler
here it is if too lazy to look
That PM100X1 was exactly the type of product I had in mind, thank you, but you're right, pricing makes it not worth it.
I had no idea LOC were a thing until you mentioned the concept, but yeah, it looks like that's the way to go.
So if I'm understanding what you're suggesting correctly, a setup may looking something like this...
I decided to go with your recommendation from amazon. Will get it by Friday and will use that until my repair comes back. Thanks for all your help!!!
Not super cheap but the Rockford Fosgate 400 4D is a 400 watt 4 channel that runs my JBL 6x9s. About $140 to $160.
Here's an Amazon link for $142:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q8uUzbQ3Q9ENF
Okay, I may go with putting it under the seat. What about this Rockford Fosgate?
>Also, do you know whether RF considers Amazon an authorized dealer, in the event a warranty claim comes up?
I found out that if sold directly by Amazon, Rockford will support warranty claims.
Thanks for the advice. Would it be better to get a better amp?
My friend suggested the https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975277&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+prime
or
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M1200-Monoblock-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B01K8F1168/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975317&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=alpine+mrv-1200
I'm not sure if the m500 is sufficient
So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536015841&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=car+amplifier&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I recommend the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D. Underrated 1200 watts (closer to 1400 watts) for $260.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
RF 1200.1
Wolfram W-1500.1
Kicker 1200
Soundqubed 1250
Of these my choice would be the Wolfram.
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
I had it professionally installed but they had it done pretty fast and didn't complain too much about the install. As far as how hard does it hit, I have a RF 800x1 amp (at 2 ohms) running to it and it hits really nicely down into I'd say 50hz or a little lower. About half the time I run it by itself and half the time I throw in a RF 12" in bandpass that is ported realllly low and that hits really nice down into the 30hz range or lower (and the amp does about 1200w into this 1 ohm load). I think it really depends on the type of music you listen to. If you listen to a lot of rock or jazz or 4-4 edm like trance or house the 10" JL is great by itself. If you are really a bass head and listen to a lot of dnb or hip hop or old school "bass" music like I do and really want to pound, it might not quite be low enough or loud enough. But I do think it's probably the loudest single 10 on the market, or close, and the advantage of the single 10 in the front is the back seats can fold down for camping. If you put enough watts to it it really is an insane amount of bass for so little airspace. But yea, half the time I augment it with a 12" in a bandpass with one of the two ports blocked so it's tuned lower (as weird as all of this sounds) to really fill in that rumble.
edit: PS for the element I ended up installing 6.5" RF separates with the tweeters surface mounted. This pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IB8RD0/ very loud and the tweeters can be angle mounted. I'll post a pic of the angle mounted tweeters when I get a chance, one of the best setups I've heard in a vehicle.
edit2: Rockford fosgate tweeter surface mount in Honda Element https://i.imgur.com/Zc7ejwt.jpg
Thanks for the reply. I'm just going to swap my amp out for this one and wire down to 1 ohm.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-1500-1d
I like Skar audio so that's my first choice.
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sae-1000-v2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502736001&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fosgate+amp
https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/t-series-amplifiers/products/t-1500-1d
I'll add more in a minute.
Twisted sounds capable of 1200wrms
https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/twisted-sounds-ts1k-1000w-monoblock-bass-amplifier
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html
Can't find a link but Digital Designs has an amp that's in that price range and does around 1500rms
I know I'm missing some but your have MANY great choices.
The SQ amp is $210, but I found a Rockford Prime 750 on Amazon for $192 (every little bit helps).
I also found an ATrend enclosure with identical specs to the one recommended on the SQ website for $65 instead of $141, HERE.
What do you think?
EDIT: I added some more amps to my OP.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8
This one would give the best sound for both?
So after looking over the suggestions I threw together my version of the system.
Head Unit
Front Speakers
Rear Speakers
4 Channel Amp
Sub
Sub Amp
Now I just need to figure out what RCA's to get and what sound dampener to get.
Ahhh m30. I'm using the m50s but I had the same problem. I don't mean a big thing like that reciever, I mean a headphone amp with a bass booster function. This is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395606163&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fiio+headphone+amp
You should definitely look into those two:
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
I have the ones from Audio-Technica and am fully satisfied. Back when I wanted to buy some good headphones I originally planned on buying the DT 770 PRO from Beyerdynamics but before I could order them a friend told me that the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 were currently discounted - so I went with them.
You'll most likley need a portable headphone amplifier like this one if you want to use the Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO with your smartphone.
You would want to use the composite cables that came with ps3.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095739&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
using that you can get the audio to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
get yourself and amplifier so you can control volume.
plug the RCA->3.5mm into the amplifier input and plug anything you want as the output be it speakers or headphones.
This is what i use to get my HD650s working with my ps3 :D. It works quite nicely
Would the
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO, 250 ohms (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NL5SM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=I3JEXU45VJLNNF) be good to walk to and from classes in college with the FiiO E11 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=IZLOCH1VXRN7N) or is it awkward?
This is what i have. Has an amp to boost the volume, as well as the ability to adjust gain and an equalizer.
Im using Sennheiser 280 pros with this and its able to get very loud without distorting.
Edit:switched to amazon link
I did buy it a long time ago so there is probably a new version.
Actually, I just read a review over on Head-Fi and was shocked to find they say it sounds better than the more expensive e7!!! My man, I think you just picked out my next purchase. Thanks again! :D
Edit: I must admit, for an extra $30 the e11 is looking mighty tempting, too.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
is what I would suggest as something cheap-ish and basic, i'm currently running a E17 with MDR 7506's. Even if your phone has the capacity to properly power lower ohms headphones it's worth it to invest in a good amp.
That E11 is only a amp though, the E17 is a DAC and Amp, I use the E17 as my soundcard wherever I go, it's awesome.
Budget - About $200 can go a little higher if there is a real increase in quality.
Source - An amp ( The Amp ) and hten into my phone or computer. I will buy a desktop amp in the future.
Requirements for Isolation - They are for use at home at my computer mostly there is no real isolation requirement.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized.
Preferred tonal balance - I like my sound to sound crisp and defined. I also like good bass that you can feel. I really hate it when songs sound almost muffled. My EQ's usually end up being a parabola shaped (u shaped). I hate it when the good bass sound comes at the cost of the rest of the audio quality. I also hate it when bass just ends up being a constant rumble (like what happens sometimes with the bass guitar) instead of sounding like punches if that makes any sense, but then again that may just be the songs themselves and not the equipment. I also like my guitars to great so when a crunchy guitar riff comes on I'm able to hear it well. Lastly I like vocals too. A well balanced sound with emphasis on the bass if it does not come at the cost of the quality of the other areas is what I'm looking for.
Past headphones - Siberia v2: Admittedly I did not buy these for music, they really suck in that department even with my portable amp they do not get loud enough and they have far too little bass and while they play the music nothing really stands out as good about them.
Sennheiser HD 7 DJ: I bought these last week somewhat an impulse purchase and I am not exactly happy with the sound, while it's better than anything else I own currently (I own Razer Hammerhead Pro's, Sennheise cx-300's and the siberia v2) I still don't think it sounds great. My car has pretty good sounding speakers. When I play a song in my car I can get both defined sounding guitar and great bass but with these headphones some songs guitar and/or vocals (most commonly guitar though) sounds like absolute crap. No matter what I do with the EQ I can't get it to sound right. I have 3 more weeks to return these if I choose to do so.
Preferred Music - I listen to a lot of different stuff, Most commonly metal, rock, rap and pop. I however also listen to trance, electronic, jazz, and folk from time to time. I'll post a few examples below.
Metal
Metal
Rock
Rock
Rap/Hip-Hop
Rap/Hip-Hop
try these
Ok I got one more question for you, to get the most out of them would you recommend buying the amplifier? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_01_t_lh
I don't even use the base because the battery pack gets in the way.
So I can't find the 32hom version anywhere but I did find some deals for the 80 ohm, cheap enough that I could get a portable amp, such as this.
The prices I found were:
usedrefurb
used a few times - - looks like 250ohm, better?
wholesale from China
Any you recommend trusting or not trusting? Any other places you would recommend?
For the headphones, I would recommend the Klipsch X10. Here is a review from Head-Fi. These headphones have a pretty good seal so you get excellent isolation and virtually no leakage.
As for the amp, I'd go with the FiiO E11. Solid build construction, and it packs quite a punch. It only has a 10 hour battery life though, which can get annoying if you listen to music a lot.
These two products combined cost about $182 on amazon, though I'm sure you can find a better deal if you look hard enough.
The FiiO E11 portable amp should be a perfectly acceptable device to drive your DT-770's at 80 ohms. This is because 80 Ohms is not necessarily a high impedance so you don't need to spend tons of money on the actual amp itself.
Here's a link to the actual product: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375633942&amp;sr=8-1
I also recently purchased a DT 770 80 Ohm, it should arrive in 2 days, although I picked up an FiiO E07k AMP/DAC combo to go with it, thats about 90 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
I was using a Fiio E11.
So you can see why I was having issues. Lesson learned, though; Don't cop out on an amp when you're buying $400 headphones.
I've heard people use this amp with the re400s and said the bass boost option helps. Can't speak on their behalf but it works for them.
So I’m sort of new to the audio setup thing, but I recently bought the AKG 7xx on Massdrop:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones
And I also bought the Fiio E11 (that I can return):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053KWDES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And I was wondering, should I get a better amplifier? The 7xx came with a large jack that looks like it goes into a guitar amplifier, while the E11 only has 3.5mm jacks ins/outs. I like the 7xx’s form factor and it’s very comfortable so I want to keep it, but I am not attached to the E11 at all and was wondering if I should replace it. Portability doesn't mean much to me, since I will use it mainly as an amp on my desk when I'm using my desktop.
Also, should I get a sound card for my desktop? Or is just plugging into 3.5mm jacks on my tower good enough for the most part? My budget is flexible but I want something that will do my current set of headphones justice.
Yeah, i wouldn't bother placing the sub another place if you're happy with it now.
As I said over, I'm a bit in the same situation as you. Neighbor(Not old thogh) and thin walls. I figured I just go for the cheap speaker set, since I can't get the advantage of a more expensive one and I'm kind of broke these days. So I use my MH50s to listen to music and games.
Works ok, but I find that my computer can't power the headset properly and adjusting the volume in W7 is a niughtmare. Next on my list is one of these
/r/audiophile is a great resource.
If you want to keep the price low, I bought an Asus Xonar DG, which has a headphone amp built in. Huge improvement in sound quality over the built-in audio on my mobo. Obviously this is only for desktops.
If you have a laptop, you would get an external unit, like the Fiio E10, which is a combination DAC and headphone amp.
These are both low priced options that are pretty great for the money. As I'm sure you're aware, the sky's the limit for how much you want to spend on audio gear.
one more nod for Fiio, e10 is my choice as well. best sound I've ever heard for such a small, cheap little gadget!
Yeah, I think a DAC/amp combo might be the best for right now. I was looking at the Fiio E10. And I'll definitely go with spotify premium, I've been considering the upgrade anyway. Thanks for the advice.
INSANITY
The worst thing I've ever heard play sound was a pair of $4 speakers I had to use before I got anything half way decent. As for the next giveaway, I think a fiio e10 would be kind of nice.
You own some? I am looking at this dac/amp as well as some others 2 3 4 5 and if you have any insight I would love to hear it before I burn another hole in my tight budget.
If you want the best sound for your money (within your requirements) you should check out the MrSpeakers Mad Dog and Fiio E10. You will get sound from plugging it into the iPad Mini, which would be fine for listening to YouTube videos but not really for listening to music; you're Macbook Pro will drive them quite easily but you will get much improved sound quality using an amp. They isolate well but are really too big to wear out and about - they would be perfect if you shared a dorm room or for studio use. They are super comfortable with huge ear-pads, and have a great clean neutral sound.
If you want to be able to use these on the go the Sennheiser Momentum is a good choice. They are more consumer-grade headphones, but you would get way more out of these with the iPad and the Macbook. They are not as comfortable to my ears, but they are much lighter. They are quite neutral with a slight bass emphasis to my ears.
I've recently purchased a pair of JBL LSR305, I've been using it with my Fiio E10. Since the sound card on my motherboard stopped working. I've read that using powered speakers with an amp can damage those speakers. Also is there a way to increase the maximum audio output from these speakers without damaging them?
Im currently in the market for a new desktop amp or dac im new to the whole audio game and would like ot learn. i currently have the beyerdynamic dt 770 pro 80 i know these dont need an amp but at the moment they soudn really low to me. im looking at a price range from $100 - $200
Ones i've been looking at:
https://schiit.com/products/magni-2
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
awesome. I didn't know much about them but just did a little research and that sounds like a pretty good idea. Do you know what the difference would be between using a DAC compared to just the sound card?
EDIT: I was looking around reading forum posts and reviews and came across this. Any good?
keep the speakers, your xonar is not an AMP, its a sound card, you need a new sound card (also called a DAC). get a £60 Fiio e10 USB DAC and use the line out on the back. it should be will be better than the xonar and you can keep the money for something more important.
I use a FiiO e10 Olympus for my DT770 250ohm and it's wonderful. Relatively cheap, quite well-built, and nice looking.
I listen to EDM all day long with these (I found em for $170 CAN)
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM
and this (amp required to power the 250ohm cans, $60)
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
the E10 has a bass boost which kicks ass with EDM.
These also absolutely destroy my $350 open ear Sennheiser PC 360's!!!
Need a bit of advice guys. Got like £150 - £200 to spend on my first headphones.
I was thinking about the Audio-Technica ATH-M50s or the Sennheiser HD25-1 II or perhaps even the Grado SI80i and a Fiio E10.
Is that a good starting point? Do I need the Fiio DAC?
Many thanks.
Budget - £150 to £200.
Source - Onboard motherboard sound (HD audio connection, not AC97).
Requirements for Isolation - I'll mostly be in a quiet room at home.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Anything but IEMs. These are for home listening.
Preferred tonal balance - No idea (sorry)
Past headphones - Apple iPhone headphones (lol)
Preferred Music - Wide range from Bruce Springsteen, Radiohead, Johnny Cash, Pink Floyd, some blues, some classical.
Location - UK
If you want good sound people here have nailed it pretty good. Sansa Clip sounds pretty good even out of the box.
Cowon are known for having good sound as well. I would recommend at some point if you want something that sounds really good - look at getting a DAC or DAC/AMP combo - these things really enhance MP3s - they will make you say "oh wow..." especially if you are using good headphones. I have 3 DACs and I recently just heard the FiiO E17 and was really impressed with it - particularly for 100 bucks.
Get the sansa and look later into a DAC/AMP combo. Even with the DAC you are under 200 bucks. :)
FiiO E17 - 121.99 http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW
Also look at FiiO E10 - I have one of these, very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373074173&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=FiiO
Check the obvious and make sure the inline volume and windows volume are turned up. If that's not the problem I would suggest an external amp or USB amp/DAC combo like the FiiO A1 or E10 over a new soundcard.
Can you post some info on your integrated audio or just the motherboard make and model? You should be able to drive them reasonably loud without more after market gear.
Not interested in Crysis 3. What games do you have on Steam?
do you happen to have a USB DAC similar to something like this?: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
Or maybe extra mousepads? Keycaps for cherry mx brown switches? Those are the only things I can think of right now, unfortunately.
An engineering friend of mine suggested buying a powered USB DAC (digital to analogue converter) for any computer when you are using it as an analogue source, as the built in ones for sound cards are almost always poor. This is an example of a more expensive one: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
/r/headphones
/r/audiophile
That said, I use a pair of AKG K240 Studio headphones with a Fiio E10 DAC/Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348679800&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fiio+usb
Is this a model you might recommend?
Check out the Fiio E10 - I love it!
Wait. Just re-read your question.
Try this
I made a separate post for this first before a kind user pointed me here so bear with me if you already saw this.
I've been hovering on the edge of deciding whether to invest in good headphones for awhile now and I need the final word in whether or not to do it. I own a pretty powerful desktop and do a lot of gaming; I also have hundereds of gigs of music and enjoy listening to all kinds daily. Quality is pretty important to me and I love it when a song can fully immerse me. I listen to many different genres ranging from alternative/rock to electronic/ambient. I currently own a pair of Grado SR 60i's right now and they do the trick for casual listening but I feel like I could be getting more. I did some reading and based on some reviews I picked out some new headphones along with some peripherals to enhance my listening experience. I would really appreciate it if you fellas would weigh in on my choices and let me know if I am making the right decision with my purchase.
Headphones- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042A8CW2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Sound card- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TMZ1BK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Amp/DAC- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VO7LG6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A13BNE3P7C8THK
Is there anything I am missing? Something I am skimping on? Will the headphones suit my needs(in a head-fi article I read that 598's were great for gaming as well)?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VO7LG6
which model do you have? I was looking at getting the Fiio E10.
I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.
i have the following hardware:
Then i just use voicemeeter banana to sort out the audio. - https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
I take the headphone/soundcard audio + VR HMD audio and route it to the voicemeeter virtual VAIO device, and make that the default audio device in windows. Also, I limit the bass frequencies on the output that goes to the amp/shakers using Voicemeeter EQ.
Hey, that's what I've got! It sounds great. Perfect for an apartment. Lepai makes an amp with a 68 watt subwoofer ouput. Get that and a passive subwoofer and you've got a pretty bangin custom 2.1 setup.
http://www.amazon.com/ANV-515-Passived-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Silver/dp/B005CKN00U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0HC0W7NCWY0AQB7RQVDW
Hi, I need help to power my new headphones (ath m50x's). I have the Lepai LP-168HA amp ( https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO ) for my speakers and have that connected to another sub woofer amp. I was wondering if there was a cord that would go from the speaker out that the amp has to an female aux cord. If more details are needed. Ask away, can also provide pictures if need be. Thanks!
No idea what you just asked me to do lmao.
I take the subwoofer audio out that's supposed to go into the computer and plug in splitters instead of a cable?
What do I do with the cable? How do I use that with an amp? :S
EDIT: Using this amp btw, http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO
I was going to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523319607&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=two+channel+sub+amp
That should work, right?
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Here's three that are dedicated DACs and Amps. I own the e10 and it sounds great, and not just for its price.
Also, they didn't say that the dedicated amp would be able to drive high impedance headphones well. Keep in mind that they're targeting Beats headphones which have low impedance.
Here is another Amazon suggestion. Any experiences with the NuForce uDAC2?
I've heard great stuff about the NuForce from a friend who has it.
I can't comment much on small monitor speakers, but I can tell you what I think of my Sennheiser HD280 headphones. I think they sound fairly good, but the padding is inadequate and after a few hours one of my ears hurts where it is touching a hard part of the headphone. If I was buying again now, I'd have a long hard look at the ATH-M50.
Oh wise audiophiles,
Forgive me in advance for any ignorance, this is going to be my entry-level purchase into the hifi world. This is not necessarily a 'puchasing advice' inquiry, but more of a knowledge inquiry on what I need to power my setup. I'm looking at buying KRK Rokit 5 G3s and the Beyerdynamic DT770 250 ohms purely for near-field music listening (no producing, mixing, DJing, etc.) at my PC. I was recently gifted the Xonar DX 7.1 PCI sound card for my rig which I believe is a sufficient DAC for Rokit 5s (correct me if I'm wrong), but I'm unsure if I'm losing some quality by hooking my monitors in with an unbalanced line via an XLR or 1/4" TRS to 1/8" TRS. Further to that, the Xonar DX does not split to mono inputs so I would need an adapter to plugin directly to my soundcard. I do enjoy having an external interface to control my sound devices and a friend suggested I buy a mixer such as the Behringer XNYEX502 as another possibility.
First question: is it worth buying an external DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s compared to using only a Xonar DX soundcard?
I also understand that they DT770s need an amplifier to be properly used. The recommendations I've researched typically consist of the fiio portable headphone amplifier series or the O2/ODAC JDS Labs combo. I do not need a portable amplifier as these headphones will live at my station and I have separate headphones for portability. The O2/ODAC combo sounds like a great piece of hardware, but at $279, they greatly exceed the price of my DT770s.
Second question: Are there other solutions that I can look into that aren't portable or expensive?
If the O2/ODAC combo is recommended and is worth the price in combination with the DT770s, then I'm perfectly fine making the purchase. Just want to be sure it's not overkill.
Now for the (longshot) third question: Since I'm potentially looking into both a DAC and a headphone amplifier, is there a piece of hardware that can satisfy both in one tool? Seems like I could find a way of mitigating the cost by purchasing a device that could be both a DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s and a headphone amplifier for my DT770s. If not, is there a stack I could purchase that have similar designs that would look aesthetically pleasing on my station (I'm a fan of clean looking and matching hardware)?
Again, sorry for any groans I may have caused and thank you in advance for your expertise.
First let me say that I don't know anything. I was looking at these headphones and using this"amp"
EDIT: It appears that this is a better option with the headphones I linked. But again, I do not know anything. Seriously.
Hi,
several sets of supposed gaming headsets(5.1+7.1) have let me down, both with terrible positioning audio and just general quality. So considering replacing them and i stumbled into virtual barbershop and then a few more audiophilish videos. Bit of research and generally looking around have left me with this as a short list.
Zalman ZMMIC1 Lapel Microphone,
Sennheiser HD 518 Open Circumaural Headphones with E.A.R. Technology
FiiO Olympus E10 USB Decoder Headphone Amplifier (3.5 mm Stereo Jack, Black)
as far as I am aware (blissfully unaware) these 3 are compatible? and pretty decent quality for the cash (£200max)? and just plugging them straight in the back of my pc via USB will work beautifully?
and on a gamming related, do most games now have positional stereo enabled ala virtual barber shop or am i going to end up without any positional from this setup?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-ZMMIC1-Lapel-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=pd_sim_recht_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0XH5A8P6Z9R4JGS2MG2D
http://en-uk.sennheiser.com/audio-headphones-stereo-hifi-tv-hd-518
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-E10-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=pd_sim_computers_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=02T1N4VCS5H08BNWSD6J
If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.