Best analog tire pressure gauges according to redditors

It's a tire gauge, the old-school kind before digital ones were common and inexpensive.

(example)

Just a reminder to all: The TPMS light is programmed to illuminate when tire pressure is 25% below what it should be, which equates to about 8psi underinflation. That level of underinflation will severely impact handling, especially in wet or snowy conditions (not to mention it will lower fuel efficiency by several mpg). While it is a great reminder and an excellent indicator of punctures, TPMS doesn't replace periodically checking tires for their exact pressure.

A $10 digital tire pressure gauge is an inexpensive investment in both the safety and performance of your car, as is taking the time to check tire pressure. Remember, the best engine, brakes, drivetrain, suspension, etc. mean nothing if the four patches of rubber between your car and the road can't perform adequately.

It's a tire tread depth gauge.

Here you go!

The same one you buy on the truck.

Astro 3018 Digital Tire Pressure Gauge and Inflator with Stainless Steel Braided Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PUTC0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z4cSAbRYMCQM2

1. This gauge works great.
   
   Accu-Gage Fat Bike Presta Valve Low Pressure Bicycle Tire Gauge, 30psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WVG928/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_vuoQBbR84DC5H
   
   
2. Get rid of tubes. Tubes = lame
   
   
3. get a dropper
   
   
4. get a Bluto or Mastadon
   
   
5. Squeaking? Probably tires are too hard.

I think OP had a typo and meant to say "What kind of VALVE do I need to pump up my tires."

In that case you need one of these. You could also get a presta valve to fill up bike tires if that's your thing.

Ninja 250/300 racer here. First of all, you're gonna want to bookmark this page if you haven't already found it. Literally everything you'll ever need to know in terms of repair and maintenence.

Let me give some more specific suggestions based on /u/ViperThreat post:

> Get a good tire pressure gauge - something that's very accurate and reads in 10ths. It will become the most used tool in your kit. Guaranteed.

100% agreed. Here's a good one.


> Invest in GOOD tires - grip is your friend, $70 shinkos are not.

Dunlop Alpha 13's are probably the best out there now. They've got a newer model supposedly coming out later this year. Bridgestone makes an RS-10 set that can fit. Your best bet is to get them from a tire supplier at the track.

> Flush your coolant and go with distilled water + water wetter. Runs cooler, safer for the track, etc.

100% agreed.

> Invest in good brakes - I'm not sure if there is an upgrade kit for your bike, but at minimum look at some good pads and braided lines with M600 fluid.

No need for an upgraded caliper. Stainless lines are a great idea. You only need the front line, you can leave the rear brake stock. I prefer Vesrah pads on the 250/300, but everyone has their own preference. Experiment and find what works for you.


> Tank Grips are magical - get a set of stompgrip or techspec.

Individual preference. I relied on them on my 250. Didn't put them on my 300 and really haven't noticed a difference.

> Good rearsets give you a lot more confidence when moving around your bike. Not fun when you're dragging knee and your foot slips.

There are plenty of rearsets out there, whichever you choose, buy a brand that make it easy to get replacement pegs.

> If you intend to make this a track-only bike, Invest into sharkskinz or some other similar track body. They are more durable than your factory plastics which saves headaches when you start to get more agressive.

Ebay's got plenty of options for this, for much cheaper than sharkskinz. If you go ABS they will shatter on impact. Fiberglass will scuff but hold up. Easier to repair, or you can just leave them as battle scars. I bought these and they held up well on a low side. Sanded and painted and they looked better than new.


> A good towing setup is crucial - make sure it's easy to load/unload. You'll begin to dread trackdays if it takes you 4 hours to load and unload your stuff.

You won't really need tire warmers for this bike. Save the money and use it toward more track time. Eventually you'll push hard enough and feel the bike chatter. Use that saved money for suspension work.

Get one of these. Normal gauges can be a pain in the ass to maneuver around the bike.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XPL88NC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499129110&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tiretek&dpPl=1&dpID=41FRRirR0gL&ref=plSrch

/u/keylime503 is spot on. Even if it is the law. Even if it is your right, why waste your time and potentially hurt your car just cause that's how its supposed to work.

Pickup an inexpensive gauge like this one
http://smile.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
(or this one if you're old-school like me http://smile.amazon.com/TireTek-Flexi-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Motorcycle/dp/B00XPL88NC/)

and you're good to go. Keep it in your trunk or glovebox.

for the completely gas station free experience, pickup your own compressor.
$20 http://smile.amazon.com/LifeLine-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/

$45 if you're into overkill like me http://smile.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO

And you're done.

I've got a $10 compressor in the trunk of my wife's car just so I never have to worry about it when we take hers on road trips... but I wouldn't recommend something this cheap for most of you (for me its 3rd behind a 5gallon craftsman shop compressor and one of the $50 ones above)

http://smile.amazon.com/ABLEGRID®-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Adaptors/dp/B015YZJ7KY/

All of this is stored in the trunk of my Jeep strapped down in the black tote pictured. I didn't get all of these things at Amazon, but tried to find a link to purchase everything.

Not pictured is a rollbar mounted fire extinguisher

This isn't specifically for camping, just what I have on me at all times.

Starting at the top right:

• Three pack of road triangles
  
  
• Solar power bank
  
  
• Leatherman Super Tool 300 in black oxide
  
  
• Cyber Power inverter
  
  
• Bungee cords
  
  
  
• Ratchet and random sockets
  
  
  
• Ratchet strap
  
  
  
• Jumper cables
  
  
  
• 30,000 tow strap
  
  
  
• Target brand first aid kit
  
  
  
• Coast px20 with red beam
  
  
  
• Coghlans right angle flashlight
  
  
  
• Eton solar/ crank radio and light
  
  
  
• Tire pressure gauge
  
  
  
• Digital tire pressure gauge
  
  
  
• Military issue folding shovel
  
  
  
• 7 ton shackle permanently borrowed from my ship
  
  
  
• 75ft of paracord
  
  
• Harbor Freight wrench set
  
  
• Harbor Freight torque wrench
  
  
• 20'x20' blue tarp
  
  
  

Keep a good tire inflation kit with you! I recommend a small tire inflator for slow leaks, pressure imbalance, or flats; and a reliable tire pressure gauge to verify all 4 tires have even pressure.

I'm happy to help. If you get one setup right, they're a blast. But I'll warn you, the stock wheelset makes it feel way slower than it is. The wheelset I bought I found on sale and between that and going tubeless I shaved over 3lbs of rotating mass. That's HUGE on a bike, and right where you feel it most. My wheel/tire combo only weighs about 1/2lb more than my fully 29er setup. You have to buy a dedicated low pressure gauge for it, that reads in small increments. This is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-Presta-Valve-Pressure-Bicycle/dp/B071WVG928/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522435581&sr=1-1&keywords=low+pressure+bike+gauge

I should clarify that I'd only recommend using the built in gauge as a rough guide.

Something like this would be more accurate.

Personally I use a cheap version of this, nice because it also fits in my pocket.

My Haves:

Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.

Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips

Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.

I have the same Accord. 32 psi is what it will say on a sticker on your door.

I would recommend [an eletronic gauge] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5941-Digital-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0037V0EW8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506455395&sr=8-3&keywords=tire+gauge) or [a metal gauge] (https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-921-Passenger-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506455395&sr=8-4&keywords=tire+gauge).

The slime pen is fine too, but I heard they can be defective and they are made of cheap plastic.

What did you ask him to do? If you asked him to take it out you can go back and have one put in but you'll have to pay.

Either way get one of these and keep it in your car so you know if it's low pressure or a sensor.

Milton (S-921) Single Chuck Head Pencil Tire Pressure Gauge - Passenger Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_loNiDbCKT90X1

I <3 my JACO gauges. I use the 60 psi version with the hose: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B015HURK64

Accugauge 30psi presta

I have an older model without the gnarly casing and it works well, especially when you forget your pump and need to use someone else's.

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

I do, mainly because I commute to work on my motorcycle. Backpack I use Here.

• Digital Tire Pressure Gauge
  
• Extra Leather Gloves
  
• Glove Liner(For Cold Mornings)
  
• Extended Cell Phone Battery & Cover
  
• Solar Charger
  
• Bluetooth Headphones
  
• Copy Of My Bikes Manual
  
• Smith & Wesson Knife
  
• Smith & Wesson Flashlight (Above Link)
  
• Visor For My Helmet
  
• Rain Over Coat
  
• Small First Aid Kit I Threw Together
  
  

I've been using one like this for some 40+ years and it hasn't made me tired yet.

I have one that is very much like the accu-gage sold on the cartalk website. Amazon sells it too. I highly recommend it. It has a pressure release valve so you can drop to the correct pressure very quickly and accurately. I got the one that has a right angle adapter on the end because I use it on motorcycle tires too, and I don't think the straight one would fit easily into those wheels.

Definitely get a gauge that holds the pressure reading on the dial face until you press a valve on the side that resets it. The gauge you use looks like it would be difficult with that straight style chuck. Look for a tilted chuck or one that swivels, they are way more ergonomic in the hand. Check out the jaco elite gauge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A6B6KG

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

Just bought one of these for my car (its accurate and fairly cheap) and plan to use it regularly on my Pint when it arrives: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J8DLGU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even my Harbor Freight gun has held up well for over a decade including it's cheap gauge being accurate enough for street use. A track goer might want a real gauge.


My other gun, $8 one has done just fine for 2 years. No leaks. The gauge again accurate enough for street car, truck, motorcycle use.

Both are frequently compared to a known accurate gauge during use. No reason to go grab a air hose if the tires are fine or need to drop pressure. If they're low, grab the gun, pop it on and reference the reading to the low pressure you just read.

I have a independant high resolution gauge for finer stuff.

I'm all for quality tools and building ones to meet the needs and service duties we need, but this is one spot where I can say nothing wrong with a cheap one. If you must, put a higher quality gauge on it or have a independent fine resolution one on hand.

This is why I always keep a small, yet heavy duty, tire pressure in my glove box to verify my TPMS. Here is the gauge that I use.

I have the Accugage from Amazon the r/philtech describes, but I got the 15 psi range one. I put it in my pack, it's fairly small. I too have a Topeak digital gauge, but it doesn't register when you've got the tires below 5 psi, which is where I typically run mine.

Get something like this:

JACO Elite Tire Pressure Gauge - 60 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A6B6KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VODRDb2JRM722

There might be a better way to do it, but for accuracy, I just use any pump and over-inflate a little, and then I've been using this gauge to measure the psi and also bleed tiny amounts of air: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJCQ1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The gauge seems really accurate and the deflate button is very precise and allows you to take out fractions of psi so you can get the pressure to exactly where you want.

This gauge is presta, 0-30 psi. I've been using it for a couple years now and it's been great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WVG928/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gBs6Ab1RF4DRQ

I feel like an idiot, but how strong do you press the meter reading against the nozzle? I'm talking about one of these

Here is the one I have. Very heavy duty and 5 star rated on amazon. It goes up to 100psi. I need that for truck tires, but it might be better for you to get a smaller one for better accuracy.

I have this one. I use it for regular fill ups and at autocross.

JACO ElitePro Tire Pressure Gauge - 60 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HURK64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iyd.AbAZZKGBV

Just remember to always reset the reading after each tire.

Hello fellow Versys rider. I use this one when on the road:

Slime 20112 Keychain Digital Tire Gauge 5-150 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WG87QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Kk8Jwb4HV60J5

It does take a bit to get used to it, but it works well.

When in the garage I use:

Kobalt 12-Volt Power Source Air Inflator
http://www.lowes.com/pd_146781-40883-KL12120_?productId=3522750

Which clamps onto the stem & inflates to the selected pressure.

This is one of my two pressure gauges (the other one I bought in England years ago). I've found it highly accurate and reliable. See https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPL88NC/.

Thats awesome! But I wouldn't trust the accuracy with that with my $80k truck. I use a JACO Gauge!

Big fan of this guy

Would be even better if I had bent valves... but that'll be next change. It's extremely accurate, it keeps the reading till you hit the bleed valve (very helpful as sometimes it's hard to get at a mc valve), and you can use the bleed valve to release tire pressure if you've over filled (and get it exactly where you want without draining, measuring, repeating)

I know what you're talking about - they're really more of a "buy it for $2 and find out if your tires are close" sort of gauge.

I have one of these. Seems pretty nice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07647FJ9J/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015HURK64/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reads the same as expensive gauges no issues. No need to spend alot of money on these.

>I have no way of knowing which tire is the culprit or what the PSI is



You do now

I use this Accu-Gage, which costs about $13. The flexible hose makes it very easy to use with spoked wheels. There's a valve that allows you to release a controlled amount of air without removing the gauge from the valve stem.

A lot of this stuff you can just do yourself. Doesn't need to be near UCSB, or anywhere really.


I would just get the OEM rubber inserts/replacements from ebay or amazon or something for the car you have. The OEM wipers tend to be most compatible so simply replacing the consumables is all that's needed. No need to pay someone to slide some rubber out and in.

I also usually keep something like these in the spare tire compartment.

https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-921-Passenger-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523723162&sr=1-5&keywords=tire+pressure+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Tire-Inflator-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B073VB41W3/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1523723021&sr=8-16&keywords=tire+pump

Something like this to pump it up.

Vibrelli Mini Bike Pump & Glueless Puncture Repair Kit - Fits Presta & Schrader - 120 PSI - No Valve Changing Needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010JFWDHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YySyDbGX5QERK

And this to read the psi.

AstroAI Digital Tire Pressure Gauge 150 PSI 4 Settings Car Truck Bicycle Backlit LCD Non-Slip Grip, Silver (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uASyDb1QVNH39

I have this one. Works well. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PUTC0M

Do pressure gauges like this: http://www.amazon.com/Milton-S921-Pencil-Type-Gauge/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=lp_15709131_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463503528&sr=1-3

not work?

I broke my windshield.

I was filling the tires and I had this gauge: http://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Tire-Pressure-Guage-Straight/dp/B0006O2S0U/ by the gauge and the valve portion hanging free.

My portable air compressor was plugged into the center accessory jack but the power cord had got stuck on the hand brake.

So, I did what anyone would do: I whipped the power cord in a quick up-and-down motion like Indiana Jones to get it unstuck. I didn't think about that loose end of brass dangling like a nunchuck just ready to smash into my windshield in the very same hand.

It was the only time the young guy who came out to replace it said he saw damage from the inside.

I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822942&sr=8-3&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge

or

http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822827&sr=8-4&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge

I always keep a flashlight and an accurate tire pressure gauge like this one.

Whatever you decide, I highly recommend picking up a reliable 100 psi tire pressure gauge for your RV. The best on the market is the ElitePro Tire Gauge 100 PSI by JACO. These things are legit.

Ugh those hand pumps are rough for inflating at home. Grab a floor pump and a good gauge. 22 PSI is a big difference, maybe try a JACO gauge...This one would work for schrader valves: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU

Difference in readability is honestly negligible when compared to a dial gauge like this: https://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-PSI-Dial-Tire-Gauge/dp/B00070KA5I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483457512&sr=8-5&keywords=dial+pressure+gauge

I have had several of these for years and none of have ever malfunctioned.

$6 at Amazon for the manual tread depth gauge for a 2 pack. Very simple to use. 2/32 is the bare minimum tread depth you should run with. At 2/32 I believe most reputable shops will be telling you to get new tires now.

Outus 2 Pack Color Tyre Tread... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PVP5QP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mine is older but looks like this.

https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU/

Some people use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00280BL9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pKQfzb41KSST4) gauges but I think you lose too much pressure when connecting/disconnecting because of the small tire. I just use a [standard bike pump] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WN3V9AM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3OQfzbX9T9PB7) or [compressor] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IE0YIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQQfzb06QGEZX).

I have one of these for filling my car and motorcycle tires.

https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-Inflator-Inflation-MP600000AV/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491357105&sr=8-2&keywords=tire+inflation+gun

It's great.

i use this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/RACE-RX0014-Tyre-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B000VZ8S26/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1457604409&sr=8-6&keywords=tyre+gauge

seems very accurate too

I just use one of these even if it's not the most accurate still better to be within the range

Always wonder if my gauges are accurate. Or rather, which one is most accurate, given we all have a few with different results (within 3-5 PSI). Never had anything proper or expensive to verify. Finally bought cheap digital, super easy to read, but still unsure if accurate. Your suggestion looks solid, may add it to the collection.

BTW: Amazon links just need the site/dp/itemnumber for valid link. All the rest is reference and tracking codes. Example: https://amazon.com/dp/B01B1MQS7O

Every auto parts store ever.

I personally go for these https://www.amazon.com/TireTek-Flexi-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Motorcycle/dp/B01B1MQS7O/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_sspa_dk_rhf_search_pt_sub_0_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01B1MQS7O&pd_rd_r=8BNTKG5CSBHP15NV5MM8&pd_rd_w=PnZkp&pd_rd_wg=U4oGG&pf_rd_i=desktop-rhf&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=e87058aa-f9d2-4ff9-899f-ef5a5d673794&pf_rd_r=8BNTKG5CSBHP15NV5MM8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhf&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=8BNTKG5CSBHP15NV5MM8

When something is worth doing right...

Telling us what bike you have would be a help.

1. Check your manual it will tell you how to adjust it and how much slack there should be. Also go on youtube and search for chain adjustment and your bike model. Unless it's something weird there'll be a video explaining it all.
   
   
2. I use chain cleaner, paraffin is cheaper though.
   
   
3. You use a tyre pressure gauge to check it, again your owners manual will tell you what the pressure should be. Always check the pressures with the tyres cold.
   
   
   I like this type.
   
   https://www.amazon.co.uk/RACE-RX0014-Tyre-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B000VZ8S26/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499288642&sr=8-5&keywords=tyre+pressure+gauge

Some shitty products being listed here. Reviewers claim this product eats expensive batteries like candy.

Why not a manual tire gauge that's better reviewed and cheaper? https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S921-Pencil-Type-Gauge/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=pd_sbs_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31Hn4AXz58L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=5G4MZQCPNPZ4QQSTB821

Fuck anything designed to work with presta. It just makes it over-complicated and shitty, IMO.

My 'pro tip': All presta adapters are the same damned thing. These work great and are stupid cheap.

Then just use a half-decent car tire gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SQYTG/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WJQSC5480BRRMBPAAXGQ