There's a spray called (I'm not kidding) "Cat Crap." Spray it on your glasses and it works really well:

https://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10808B-Anti-Fog-Spray/dp/B003RLF4H8

Was cleaning out my bag so I figured I'd post here!

From top to bottom the items are:

2015 Retina 13 inch Macbook Pro
TI-89 Titanium Calculator
Papermate Mechanical Pencils
Pilot G2 UltraFine pens
iPad Mini 2 w/ Blue SmartCover
Powerbeats 2 Wireless
Assortment of British and American coins
Multicolor Sharpie Pens
Burt's Bees lip balm
Woosh! Microfiber cloth
Macbook charger
Burberry BU9007 Gunmetal Watch
Burberry Bi-Fold Wallet
Keys
Plants vs. Zombies Microfiber cloth
Rayban New Wayfarers
Tie Bar

Not pictured: Nexus 6P

I've used both rubbing alcohol and ArctiClean to remove thermal paste and ended up finding that the ArctiClean worked a bit better than alcohol. Although if I remember right, the stuff in the first bottle is just the stuff in Goo Gone, and the second bottle is just something that can clean the residue up easier.

Tl;dr: Rubbing alcohol works, but they also make stuff meant for the task.

My favorite cleaning product is the Klear Screen stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Klear-Screen-iKlear-Complete-Cleaning/dp/B0023WU6OI/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1311187261&sr=8-15

One of the things I really like is they make these travel packs, keep one or two in your laptop bag and if something gets on the screen you can clean it right off:

http://www.amazon.com/Klear-Screen-iKlear-Travel-Singles/dp/B001W2UYYC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1311187376&sr=1-6

They make a ton of interesting products, and are actually manufacturer recommended by a few folks:

http://www.klearscreen.com/

As long as you're not treating your monitor like a touch screen you should only need to clean it every 3-4 months.

iKlear

Its what they use in the Apple stores and it works great.

I have one of these. They do a really good job. I usually get the heavy smudges with the cloth, cleanup with the Lens Pen.
https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481828155&sr=8-3&keywords=lens+pen

ZEISS Lens Wipes - 200 Pre-Moistened Eyeglass Cleaning Wipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YLW34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_30ucAbFM9V1V1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z6N6/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQDS6G/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006J1E5K/ref=wms_ohs_product

http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1332792314&sr=8-7

a big giant syringe of arctic silver

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RTK-PST-Supply-Tester-Digital/dp/B004Q7FUGM/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1332792670&sr=1-9

and some cable sleeving if the client wants it. That's what I've got.

The welts happen. My chest is covered in them from playing yesterday. Depending on how bad they are, they should be gone in a few days to a couple weeks.

For fogging, you could try anti-fog. I've heard good things about Cat Crap and Fog Tech. I made my own out of a bit of dish soap with water in a spray bottle (Maybe 1 part dish soap, 9 parts water) and it worked pretty well, but I never really fogged badly.

Use a product specifically for cleaning LCD/LED screens. I use Phillips screen cleaner with the sheet they provide. It gives the best results. Spray into the rag not onto the screen. Wipe until all smudged are clear.

Philips SVC1116G/27 Screen Clean for LCD/ LED/ Plasma Screens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PYD9I2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_EBn2tb0Q6RFHB0EM

You're gonna need one of these
Cooler Master NotePal X-Slim Ultra-Slim Laptop Cooling Pad with 160mm Fan (R9-NBC-XSLI-GP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C31HC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.cx1xb53RVMCD

And some of this
Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.dx1xbPAJFNPR

And some of this
ArctiClean 60ml Kit (includes 30ml ArctiClean 1 and 30ml ArctiClean 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Iex1xbGMCYTD2

And some coffee filters (lint free cleaning cloth!)

Coat effective? If they protect against BBs, they'll protect against flying jackets and coats and maybe even sweaters.

What's your budget? Did you even Google-fu? Post over in /r/airsoftmarket, check out airsoftforum.com, and/or look on Ebay for military surplus. Just make sure they're ANSI z87.1 rated.

EDIT: I'm feeling generous. Go get yourself some surplus ESS goggles or Arena Flakjaks. Used ones can be had for less than $30. Hell, Lancer Tactical even makes a knock-off Flakjak for dirt cheap. If they're still fogging, use some Cat Crap (also available in spray form). OR you can be a cheap-ass like me and buff some dish soap on the inside of your lens until clear before gameday.

Well there's your first problem! Stop breathing on your keyboard. You're just going to heat up all the sweat and angst you leave there crusading for the snowflakes.

I recommend a keyboard cleaner

I use this and it’s awesome. I also use it on my glasses. WHOOSH! Screen Cleaner Kit - Safe for All Screens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVZ4TN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SzmpDbHN3TWT7

dont use your sleeve bud, get a lenspen

https://www.amazon.ca/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPRO-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506609926&sr=1-1&keywords=lens+pen

I use this stuff on all the things including iPad, iPhone, Apple Watch. If I recall, I found out about it here on Reddit last year and figured, “eh it’s only $15....might as well try it”. I probably use it on my Watch the most because the iPad is a fingerprint magnet.

WHOOSH! Screen Cleaner – Safe for All Screens – Smartphones, iPads, Eyeglasses, Kindle, LED, LCD & TVs – Includes 2 Bottles 3.4oz,0.3.oz +3 Premium Cloths - Amazon Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVZ4TN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rwrRCbA9V9QWF

It's just a heatsink that is (supposed to be) stuck onto a chip with thermal adhesive. It's the same thing as thermal paste that goes on your CPU, but it's sticky and meant to be permanent.

If you want to fix it, buy some thermal adhesive, try cleaning off the old adhesive with alcohol or acetone (nail polish remover), and put on the new stuff. They also make this stuff for this very purpose.. I have some, it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU/

You're 100% correct, but as someone who's had to fix a lot of HP laptops over the years, the thermal paste replacement mentioned above is always a good idea as well. HP has always used the worst thermal paste for their factory builds; after a year or two, you'll find it solidified and acting as an insulator rather than a heat conductor. If they used those stick-on thermal pads, it's even worse. The real question is why is it overheating? If the fan is moving, then either it can't move the heat because there's dust choking the heatsink fins, or it can't move heat because the heat is being trapped before it gets to the heatpipe. It's usually a combination of the two.

Also, not fixing this now means the fan will eventually burn itself out running at full blast like that. Better to fix it now than have to also buy a fan along with the thermal compound.

I recommend some thermal compound remover to clean up the existing stuff too. If it's HP's stock grease, it gunks up and gets very difficult to remove. This kit has both remover and new high-quality compound:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B002DILLMS/

or remover-only, if you already have the silver thermal:
https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/

This stuff

A good travel case for it. I like my rooCase. An Iclear kit to keep it looking good.

Get an lcd display solution that you can spray it with.

I personally use this one : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KPQ2NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PnXEDb79Y0EXB

Screen/surface wipes like this.

For the body/keyboard clean mine with alcohol and if there's anything i cant get clean i used a Magic Eraser. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-Eraser-Cleaning-8-Count/dp/B001339ZMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376010755&sr=8-1&keywords=magic+eraser

For the screen, iKlear is very good: http://www.amazon.com/Klear-Screen-iKlear-PowerBook-Cleaning/dp/B00076N568

Ah I gotcha. Was gonna say that just adding more paste and not removing old stuff won't help.

I use this stuff but you really only need the first part of it.

This stuff is awesome, I highly recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/iKlear-iK-26K-Complete-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B0023WU6OI

If dusting it out entirely didn't solve your problem I highly recommend tearing it down entirely & replacing the thermal compound on the APU. Be mindful of the 16 heat dispersion pads on the memory chips encircling the APU (8 on one side of the main board & 8 below). Get yourself some good thermal compound & use quality solution to fully clean/prepare the surface of the APU. Some people may tell you to get higher end thermal compound than what I've listed below but I'm telling you truthfully, I've tried a bunch (including the higher priced stuff) & this works just as well. Replacing the thermal compound fixed my loud fan issues. I've since done this for several friends & none have experienced further issues.

Cleaner & Purifier

[Microfiber Cleaning Cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019O1RG9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469112524&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Small+microfiber+cleaning+cloth)

Thermal Compound

Edit: Formatting

You should never re-apply thermal paste on top pf the old stuff. Make sure to clean it off as much as possible. I used this to clean the old stuff out of the V20.

Here is what I came up:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Phanteks PH-TC12DX_RD 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $113.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $99.99 @ Dell Small Business
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 290 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $367.98 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $10.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $6.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $6.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1363.85
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-10 15:13 EDT-0400 |

My short rationale for the chosen products:

---------

• CPU: Quad-core intel CPU clocked at 3,5GHz with a turbo of 4,0GHz. Codename: devils canyon. But it's an unlocked CPU meaning you can overclock it.
  
• CPU Cooler: Very clean looking and solid CPU cooler, pretty easy to install and it will perform very well. Here is a review, wich you can look into more after you buy it. It's the same cooler, just different color.
  
• Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97 gaming motherboard. Z97 is the latest intel chipset for devils canyon CPUs. Wich our CPU is. It got a seperate PCB part on the motherboard for just audio, wich in theory will help the sound quality because it can interference with other parts. It as well makes use of better audio capacitors and overall should give you a very solid listening experience. It as well comes with a killer NIC. This allows you to prioritise the internet towards your game to get slightly better performance out of it.
  
• Memory: RAM is RAM. The only thing that really mathers is capacity. I went with 2x4GB, 1600MHz, CL9 kit from A-Data. This is a low profile kit that will fit under the quite large CPU cooler without any problems. You have the option to upgrade to 16GB later.
  
• Storage: 250GB SSD and 3TB HDD. You have the budget for it, the samsung EVO is a very good SSD for the price, comes with some fancy software and got pretty solid read/write speeds. The 3TB HDD is just for mass storage and likely will never be filled, but games are getting like over 50GB in sizes these days.
  
• Video Card: In my opinion the best GPU if we talk performance for money. It is around the same performance as the GTX780 from Nvidia. This XFX card is very good looking and performs very well. You get 3 free games with it as well (if the retailer let's you, I would suggest to check out different retailers to make sure you get your free games!) I can highly suggest Payday 2.
  
• Case: I will get this exact case tomorrow. I can not wait! Here is a very good review of this case wich should make you go "oké! I want it" It as well will let you later watercool if you want to go for that. I stayed with air cooling as a start.
  
• Case fans: Now I will add a few more fans. I would suggest to relocate the 200mm front fan and place it at the top as exhaust. Leave the 140mm stock fan there. These fans are actually very good and quiet silent. Then add the 2 140mm be quiet! fans in the front as intake. Then place the last 120mm be quiet! fan on the HDD cages to get more air towards the GPU. Here is a video that explains you how you know how to place the fans as I described you should.
  
• Power Supply: 10 year warrenty, 80+ gold, fully-modular black sleeved cables, 850W PSU from EVGA. This PSU is a beast. JonnyGuru is considered as the best PSU reviewer and he did as well review this PSU. TLDR: 9,9/10.
  
• OS: Windows 7 as you asked for. Windows 8 is better tho, just takes some time to get used to. Games will perform slightly better on 8 compared to 7 as well. But with this system, it won't really mather.
  
  ---------
  
  Here are 2 video's that guide you pretty well. It's pretty much the same for the whole build process, Ignore the components, it's outdated!
  
  
• Linus $1500 gaming PC
  
• Linus $2000 gaming/workstation PC
  
  One thing to note; if you install the stock intel cooler. It got pre-applied thermal paste on it. Wich you have to remove after. You can buy 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth to remove the thermal paste of the CPU. An other option instead of the 90% isopropyl alcohol is this kit that I personally use as well. You don't need to use to much to clean it.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

Might be all right for the exterior, though I prefer to use iKlear and a microfiber cloth (basically the same stuff I use to clean my computer monitor) since it's ammonia & alcohol free. I get rather paranoid when it comes to my electronics. :P

A micro fiber cloth (I like the ones used for car washing 16" x 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCKE8/ ) and "Monoproce universal screen cleaner" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KPQ2NW/ ) is all you need. Make sure your a/c is nice and cold in the room and you will be good.

have you tried a CD and DVD Lens Cleaning Kit?

They have this thing designed to get all up in between the keys. Pretty cool. Also canned air to spray out crumbs, this goop stuff to pick up gunk, etc. Or if a makeup brush actually does work, you could get a cheap one yourself. Elf has ones for like a dollar that I could see working.

Make sure that when you clean it, you are cleaning the top of the processor and the bottom of the heatsink that makes contact with the top of the processor. 70% alcohol works, although I prefer this stuff just because I work on a fair amount of systems.

If that doesn't work, try replacing the heatsink and if your temps are still high after that, you may want to try some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I used that on my personal x240 and it idles in the mid 40's and doesn't get much above 70 when I throw a load at it.

EnDust.

Trust me.

For any electronic/dark surface that likes to collect dust. Use it with paper towels.

I have a shit ton of black/shiny type surfaces that love to collect dust. Whiping them down with EnDust will keep them dust free for a good month or so, which is better than the standard you know...day or so.

For some reason it is getting increasingly hard to find in stores, but as you can tell from my link, they have it on Amazon.

I use this but follow it up with a lint free cloth.

Endust for Electronics LCD and Plasma Pop Up Wipes 70 CT - 11506 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SBB0SU

I use this to clean keyboards and what not. Although I've never really needed to clean my laptop's keyboard.

Micro Vacuum Attachment Kit - 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BSJCLY

And the fan turns ok?

There are some cleaners for removing the old thermal paste and then cleaning the top of the CPU - https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/

For replacement paste I'd normally go for - https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/

Just use a pea-size blob, no more :)

This stuff works great for monitors. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SVC1116G-Screen-Plasma-Screens/dp/B004PYD9I2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1414704688&sr=8-5&keywords=screen+cleaner

Don't for a second think that you'll be able to use them for lenses afterwards though, they don't wash very well. Also you can use a cotton bud (q tip) and toothpick to get in the fiddly bits. I have applied thermal paste to a gajillion CPUs over the years and I've always used ArctiClean to help. The first product dissolves the old paste making it easier to mop up and the second cleans the surfaces before application of the new paste.

Protip: This stuff is great for removing the adhesive residue.

Best way is to open it up, use a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.

Can also get discs with a little brush that kinda work https://www.amazon.com/Maxell-190059-Only-Lens-Cleaner/dp/B00000JPPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521912443&sr=8-3&keywords=cleaning+dvd+lens

Edit:
I realize I didn't answer your question the first time so I'm back haha.
Two years ago I asked an Apple store employee what they used to wipe down all Apple products because everything was so clean. Like no fingerprint stains on any of the keyboards, immaculate iPad and iPhone screens.

He told me they used "Whoosh" cleaner and microfiber cloths, both available on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/WHOOSH-Award-Winning-Screen-Cleaner-Antimicrobial/dp/B00DOPW5L0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502605520&sr=8-3&keywords=whoosh
I've used Whoosh on my own Macbook Pro and indeed it cleaned my screen effectively, but I haven't needed to use it on the keyboard since I use keyboard covers. Also, this was on the 2015 Macbook Pros. Ymmv since we're now talking about the 2017 MBPs, but if you ever stop by an Apple store, you can always ask them what they use - or if they use/ever used Whoosh.

Original post:
If you don't mind the frosty look on your keys, I'd recommend a keyboard cover. I've used one on my Macbook Pro 13 2015 since the launch week and buy a new one every half year or so for cleanliness reasons.

In my limited experience, a brand called Uppercase has pretty consistent quality. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/UPPERCASE-GhostCover-Premium-Keyboard-Protector/dp/B01MRKLH27/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502598784&sr=8-1&keywords=UPPERCASE+GhostCover+Premium+Ultra+Thin+Keyboard+Protector+for+MacBook+Pro+with+Touch+Bar+13%22+or+15%22+%282016+and+2017%2C+Apple+Model+Number+A1706%2C+A1707%29

You must not have looked very hard then, because this one has a 4-star average review with 122 total reviews and lots of people saying it works well: http://www.amazon.com/Allsop-23321-Carbon-Edge-CD-Drive-Cleaner/dp/B00000J1QM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1/184-2924034-4941226

And another with 4 star avg review and 114 reviews with many saying it works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Endust-Electronics-Console-Cleaner-262000/dp/B003EEMDMC/ref=pd_cp_e_2

Same thing here, 4 stars and 180 reviews and many people saying it works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Innovations-60120-00-CleanDr-Cleaner/dp/B0007U9SRE/ref=pd_cp_e_0

You didn't have to lie to me, man.

My PS3 is also doing something like this. It is able to play a game for about an hour, but as soon as the fans start revving up, the PS3 locks and the frame from the game is frozen on the screen. After restarting the PS3, its unable to read any games, but everything else works fine (e.g: PlayStation Home, Downloaded games) Theres a $15 Blu-ray lens cleaner that Maxell makes, heres the Amazon link. I haven't tried this yet, but its worth a try before shelling out $150 to Sony.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxell-190059-Only-Lens-Cleaner/dp/B00000JPPI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

The reddit's wiki articles recommend this lens cleaner disc, and I was wondering if anybody had used it. I'm trying to exhaust all my options here before I declare this drive dead.

Have you tried a simple lens cleaning disc? I never opened my xbox but the problem I had seems the same, I bought a disc on Amazon for around 8 bucks and it works great again.

Edit: here's what I bought http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041A3JS0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wash it in your bathtub.

Seriously though, sounds like your blue ray lens is dirty. Use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HN0O

I was noticing some clouding on my lenses last week and some residue building up in the corners, I figured I must have rubbed them too hard with my microfiber cloth and pushed oils into the cracks. One cleaning with a Lens Pen and everything cleared up like they were brand new. I highly recommend owning one.

try this

Yes, happened to me on my gearVR, I would just get a lens pen instead of the microfiber cloth.

e: here

I suggest upgrading your CPU cooler to something possibly like the Cooler Master Hyper Evo, use some ArctiClean to clean up the CPU before the install after you remove the old cooler. I suggest using coffee filters to clean it up because they are lint free and work very well. You can find tutorials online on how to install a new cooler if you have any issues with it. You can either use the thermal paste the cooler comes with or get some Arctic Silver 5, I think Radioshack repackages it and sells it.

I also suggest setting it up so the fan is pushing air through the cooler towards the back of the case and if you can afford it, get a second fan for the other side and do a push/pull config and that will help temps a lot.

Or if you have enough room and want a good solution to lower CPU temps I suggest getting something like the Cooler Master Seidon 120XL. I have one in my build and helps the CPU temps since my case is so small


Also get some cable ties, that shit is a mess

Push-pull config on a NZXT Kraken X61 is so overkill. That 280mm radiator and variable speed pump is more than you need to cool basically any CPU. It won't help your GPU's temps much if at all and your CPU will only drop 1-5 degrees.

My personal suggestion is a bit crazy but if you have the budget I suggest water cooling your GPU's.

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Kraken-Bracket-RL-KRG10-B1/dp/B00ITTFO8M - $30x2 for the brackets.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY - $60x2 for the coolers.

$90 per card and your load temps will never peak over 60 degrees under load unless you live in a hot climate.

You might need some accessories like thermal paste, cleaning solution, and fan adapters if you don't have this stuff laying around.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B000OGX5AM $7.43x1

https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08 $7.84x1

https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-CA-PWM-02-Adapter-Sleeved-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA $7x2

If you buy a proper tool and carefully follow the directions, slim to none. Just read reviews on the tool first, you want lots of happy customers, not some noname piece of plastic. And yes, you're gonna spend some money on this, don't try to do it cheap, you will regret it. Plan on spending $40-$100 total...

Now, full disclosure... I have been out of the delid/OC game for awhile. My latest CPU was the 4770k, so take this (possibly outdated) advice for what you will. That said, my delidded 4770k is still going strong to this day and has been very reliable. Mine was one of the first generations that had the crappy TIM, and I absolutely HATED IT.

After delidding, I personally took a (VERY) dull flathead screwdriver and gently scraped away the old silicone sealant, the idea being that with it gone, the heatspreader sits lower and has better contact. You don't need it perfectly clean/gone, but get most of it off.

As far as thermal compound, yes, any paste can be used. But I absolutely recommend liquid ultra. If you're gonna delid... you want the best. This stuff is basically metal, so it has the best thermal conductivity out there. The only downside is that it is electrically conductive, so please be careful.

Liquid ultra includes a scrubber (to remove the old thermal compound, you may also want some solvent for this) and a brush to apply the new stuff. I cut the brush with scissors to make it smaller, which helped. You want to use a VERY small amount, and evenly apply it over the whole die. When I say thin layer, I mean THIN. You can look up a guide to see how much to use. If you over-apply, you'll get worse performance and possibly kill your CPU when the excess runs off the die and onto your voltage regulators, or other sensitive components found on the CPU. Remember, when this stuff heats up, it behaves less like a paste and more like a liquid, so you only want it on and immediately around the die.

At this point, you are done. You could purchase some silicone sealant and reseal the CPU, but that's not necessary. I just dropped my CPU into the socket, gently/evenly set the IHS on the die, and closed the socket latch. If you never reopen the latch, you never have to reapply the liquid ultra. If you think you'll have to open the latch often, maybe sealant is for you. I personally never do, so I didn't need to seal mine.

My 4770k running at 4.7 GHz runs at 28c idle, 67c full load at 1.36 volts. Before delid, I would've been at 99c full load. Huge improvement. It's a little scary, but highly recommended! You'll be fine!

I use this kit to clean my CPU/GPU and Heatsinks http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08

This stuff works phenomenally. Highly recommend it.
Endust for Electronics LCD and Plasma Pop Up Wipes 70 CT - 11506 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SBB0SU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZbHoxbZJNRBCJ

As for #3, would also recommend this for better cleaning than rubbing alcohol.

I bought some Whoosh and it's worked very well to clean my screen. I still smudge as I use it, though.

-it happens

Wipe it with a dry microfiber cloth.

To clean it a little better, use a damp microfiber cloth.

To get it as clean as possible without damaging the screen, just use a microfiber cloth with some cleaning solution (such as this overpriced solution which I use). You could also make your own by creating a 50/50 blend of water and isopropyl alcohol, soak the microfiber cloth in the blend, and then wipe the screen with it.

You should also get a tempered glass screen protector (this is the best one—it comes with two protectors) if you don't have one already.

Monster ScreenClean
is the only cleaning fluid I've seen that doesn't leave streaks.

would these work?

https://vrcover.com/product/htc-vive-foam-replacement-6mm/

also what wipes. i bought a pack of these
https://www.amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-moistened-Eyeglassess-Cellphone-ZEISS-200Ct/dp/B0191YLW34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

and i heard for baby wipes u dont use it for the lens because of the lotion adn etc u just use those for the headset?

I use iKlear and it works pretty well. Apparently it's safe for oleophobic coating on screens and apple certified.

Woosh and a microfiber cloth (specifically a cloth that came with glasses). https://www.amazon.com/WHOOSH-Award-Winning-Screen-Cleaning-Antimicrobial/dp/B00DOPW5L0
The good thing about Woosh it's antimicrobial and nontoxic. It's perfectly fine for lenses, but 99.9999999% of the time, I simply just wipe the lenses clean. Even though Woosh has no ammonia, alcohol and is completely safe, I find wiping the lenses with a lens cloth work perfectly fine.

This might be a stupid suggestion, but...

Lasers need to be cleaned periodically and can cause read issues if they are dirty/dusty/scratched. They sell cds/dvds with little brushes on them for this purpose. Amazon link

You could probably devise a method of testing to see if this were the issue by copying large amounts of hashed files off of a disc and seeing if they all pass verification.

Again, probably a stupid suggestion... but if it's having an intermittent problem reading sectors it may well be hardware related...

I once fixed a "broken" ps2 that would periodically freeze, just by disassembling and cleaning the lens with rubbing alcohol.

I don't see this being a 32 vs 64 bit issue, but what do I know?

well... damn. $21 less than what I just bought on Amazon(iKlear)

I've been using whoosh screen cleaner. It's supposed to clean with out harsh chemicals. It seems to work well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOPW5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_nDQyzbPSEYRJY

Something like this should work. I've used one in the past and it works kinda decently.

Can you show us an example of one please? Is it like this: https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486765079&sr=8-3&keywords=lenspen

When I worked at bestbuy we cleaned all the screens with Monster Cleaner. Works great and it'll last forever

For anyone looking, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pEnozbMHNYGN2) lenspen is on sale for $6.99 with free shipping through prime

Anti-static wipes. Useful for cleaning basically any sort of electronics.

Something like this would do you fine.

To verify discs, play them on a known working system.

You could open up the system and drive and clean the lens with a micro fiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Or try this decent reviewed product on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00000J1QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_7Rd1Cb68YBTZQ

So he just filled the socket with thermal paste and didn't put the CPU in?

If so, he's lucky. PGA sockets can be cleaned out much easier than LGA with some isopropyl...though for it being in the socket, he'd maybe be better off getting some dedicated cleaner. The good news is that the stuff with the 212 appears to be non-conductive, so if there's still some in the socket, it won't short circuit anything.

Both me and a friend had similar problems we bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Innovations-4190100-Cleaner-Xbox-360/dp/B0041A3JS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414951898&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+360+laser+cleaner and it fixed our problems. My friend only had to use the cleaner 1 time while I have to use it about once a month to keep the system reading disks.

I personally use Zeiss Lens Cleaning Wipes (https://www.amazon.com/200-Zeiss-Lens-Cleaning-Wipes/dp/B0191YLW34/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535825538&sr=8-3&keywords=zeiss+lens+cleaning+wipes) though you can also use a spray.

Then you get some microfiber cloths - https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535825569&sr=1-3&keywords=microfiber+cloth - and that should be all you need.

When possible rinse them off with water or cleaning solution first to push big things (eyelashes, dirt, etc.) off that could cause micro-abrasions to your glasses.

Good luck! I've been wearing glasses for most of my life and they suck :(

It's this

http://www.amazon.com/Endust-Electronics-LCD-Plasma-Wipes/dp/B002SBB0SU

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Universal-Cleaner-Plasmas-smartphones/dp/B002KPQ2NW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420160265&sr=8-3&keywords=lcd+cleaner

This is what I use for TV and monitor. Phones get cleaned with microfiber cloth only, no liquid should go on those.

For the inside of a computer, nothing but compressed air.

You don't need to be OCD about dust in the computer, even in a dusty environment. You take the cover off your pc weekly for cleaning? Maybe let it go 6 months and give it a good dusting. I might do mine yearly or if I see dust building up near the fan opening. Dust isn't going to harm your computer or really affect performance in any way.

If you don't mind spending money this'll work a treat

http://www.amazon.com/iKlear-iPod-Cleaning-Apple-Products/dp/B00076N568

You can’t buy rubbing alcohol from a gas station or Drug store?

If you’re going to buy something just buy this:

ArctiClean 60ml Kit (includes 30ml ArctiClean 1 and 30ml ArctiClean 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0CbSAbWBZ6QDW

And for you, I buy this

This is what I use, came for free with my TV, works pretty good.


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00REPQWK6/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

I use this stuff for dust, if you have actual dirt on your monitor you may need to clean your house.

Try installing your disc to your harddrive. This usually helps with my games. If that doesn't work, Make sure your discs/disc tray is clean and not scratched. Maybe try one of these Clean Dr Laser lens cleaner in your xbox (http://www.amazon.co.uk/CleanDr-Laser-Lens-Cleaner-Xbox/dp/B0041A3JS0). If it's still freezing, try playing with no hard drive in. If none of these work, then you might need a new xbox

I don't think you understand. Here is a link to what I'm talking about. Again I never used one so I can't comment how effective they are.

http://www.amazon.com/Allsop-ProLens-Cleaner-Players-23321/dp/B00000J1QM

Not to make you feel bad but that sounds a tad overkill.

I use Zeiss wipes on my fold and it’s fine, and only once in awhile.

Zeiss Pre-Moistened Lens Cleaning Wipes, 200 Count (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YLW34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XN.QDb9QYFH2T

Arctic Silver makes thermal paste remover. Most of the time it's pointless as you can simply scrape the paste off of a flat CPU, but in this case I highly recommend it. Here it is on Amazon. You can also get it from Radio Shack if you don't want to wait for shipping. If you don't do this, though, be sure to use 99% Isopropanol. You do not want any water in there.

Very good luck with this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SVC1116G-Screen-Plasma-Screens/dp/B004PYD9I2

It's the only thing that I've found to actually get oils off the screen while not leaving streaks

You mean on an exterior element? The most convenient might be something like these. If you're talking about internal dust, it's not worth messing with.

Optical drives break, they have mechanical parts that can fail and will fail over time. You may have to open up your machine and check the connections.

Using a credit card and cloth is NOT the way to clean an optical drive. Doing so causes more damage. Use canned air and a kit, but don't use this too often and it will wear out the lens in a drive.

If all else fails, you need to buy a new drive.

http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y is this worth anything?

i've used this for about a year: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SVC1116G-Screen-Plasma-Screens/dp/B004PYD9I2

the ingredients are listed as distilled water, 2-butoxyethanol, anti-static, anti-septic, essence.

would that do any damage to the coating on the screen of a retina macbook pro? my screen looks flawless at the moment.

I usually just use tv screen cleaner.

Seriously.

This is all you'll ever need. Comes with so many different cloths and two bottles of fluid. Kind of at a higher price tag, but definitely worth it and made for apple products.

Over used WHOOSH! screen cleaners for a year and I really like it.

Saw them at CES last year, they gave me a free sample, and I liked it so much I bought them. They're pretty legit.

I used these and it cleaned great. Just follow exact what manual say and you will have no problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mind you, I've had the thermal paste reapplied twice and the GPU reballed, but it's definitely not the game. Technically, I guess it could be something as simple as dust/particles on the BD drive lens - if you haven't, you may want to run a brushless BD lens cleaner a couple of times before you "go nuclear'.

What do you think about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6IUHXU/ref=crt_ewc_title_srh_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I just got some of this last week, it did a great job, A+: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00REPQWK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KXVM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502473719&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anti+static+spray&dpPl=1&dpID=41oXGt98jQL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KXVM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521903907&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=endust+screen+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41oXGt98jQL&ref=plSrch

I thought this was the stuff they used - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOPW5L0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

Arctic clean shit works really well. I used no alc for this. Just warmed up the xbox, let the artic sit on it for a min, wiped up

https://i.imgur.com/fPHB6bZ.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/

I personally love this stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068P8W?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

From what I've seen, three things can cause an optical drive to quit working:

• Mechanical Failure - I've seen simple stuff like the motor not turning the disc, or ejector motors going out, but the more likely culprit over time is the read head isn't aligned/calibrated correctly. Just like a record, if the laser isn't exactly in the groove, it might work for a bit, maybe just on the inside of the disc, but as it moves to the outside of the disc, it gets further and further off. These errors usually present as a disc that some files are readable on, but not others, or DVD/Music discs that play the first section ok, but glitch out as time goes by.
  
• Software failure - Used to be a bigger problem than it is now. Things bogging down the computer would cause the flow of data during burning to stop, and the buffer that the drive has would go nuts. Usually it could recover, but not always. Newer, faster HDDs get rid of this, along with more RAM in the host machine.
  
• Plain old dust - As you use the drive, naturally, crud gets in. Finger crud, dust, etc... Eventually, the precise optics that are responsible for reading and burning can't do their jobs. There are 'Lens Cleaning Discs' that use little brushes mounted on the disc to get in there and wipe off dust, but the problem is, rapidly spinning brushes beating on precise optics isn't exactly great for the alignment of the lens, so use them at your own risk. I've gotten drives back using them, but I wouldn't say they were 100% reliable afterwards.

it's fine and normal, just clean it well. I suggest this cleaner

1. http://www.amazon.com/Monster-TV-CLNKIT-Alcohol-Free-ScreenClean/dp/B000068P8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397585765&sr=8-3&keywords=screen+cleaner

2. I was on top of a 7 story parking structure in the heart of Orange county. It was cloudy at times but you could get a peak every once in a while. I did this on my entry level a3000 with no tripod...and you hate the snow..I wish we should have some snow in Southern CALI!

I have one of these

https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469907421&sr=8-3&keywords=lenspen

Just ordered a Whoosh kit off amazon cheaper than the deals on their website.

WHOOSH! Award-Wining Screen Cleaner – Safe for All Screens – Smartphones, iPads, Eyeglasses, Kindle, LED, LCD & TVs – Includes 2 Bottles 3.4oz,0.3.oz +2 Premium Antimicrobial Cloths - Amazon Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVZ4TN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sQv-Bb2MPRKS9

I use a Monster brand spray and included microfiber cloth. I trust it more than I would using something acidic on a matte screen. only $10 here