Best dog brushes according to redditors
We found 231 Reddit comments discussing the best dog brushes. We ranked the 80 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 231 Reddit comments discussing the best dog brushes. We ranked the 80 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have this one and the click pavlov'd my cat, so he'll always run to you if you click it.
I use something like this on my goats:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Cleaning-Slicker-Pet-Grooming-Stainless/dp/B000YIWVA0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=self+cleaning+brush&qid=1557110029&s=gateway&sr=8-5
They love it and will push each other out of the way to get more brushes.
Pin brush
for regular everyday grooming, slicker brush for shedding, comb for removing little tangles in the tail, ears, legs/feathers, etc.
Avoid a rubber curry, those are good for short-haired dogs like Boxers, pugs, etc but don't usually help much with a golden. They're not harmful though so you can use it if you want (some dogs enjoy the rubber bristle).
You can use the furminator if you're careful with it. If you overdo it, the furminator can irritate the skin and break the hair... You need to use it sparingly, only when the dog is heavily shedding, and keep a close eye on the skin when using it. You can also get the same results with the brushes I advised, it just takes more work, so it's up to you if you use a furminator or not.
Also remember to clean the ears (Goldens can get ear infections pretty easily because they have floppy hairy ears), brush the teeth, and keep the nails trimmed as close to the quick as you can comfortably get them.
Edit - doesn't have to be the exact brush I linked to btw, some of those are kinda expensive, I just wanted to show you what I mean because not everyone knows what a "slicker brush" is haha.
https://www.amazon.com/Dexas-MudBuster-Portable-Cleaner-Medium/dp/B01N64DCPR
I bought it from Amazon here.
Dexas MudBuster Portable Dog Paw Cleaner, Medium, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N64DCPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WQRRBb5R2EJQF
I worked in a grooming salon for a long while. I can say that this is the best fur brush I have ever used. It looks goofy at first, but it takes out mountains of undercoat.
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1369431841&sr=1-1&keywords=zoom+groom
Just the obvious, even it and wait until it grows back.
Regarding the sheltie summer trim question, you aren't really supposed to trim their coats, the hair protects them from overheating and getting sunburns, is my understanding.
I have used undercoat rakes with great success on my shelties though, have you tried those?
I have used this one on Amazon. I use it after I bathe my dogs, once their coat is dry. The warm water is supposed to loosen the undercoat, so the undercoat rake will take more out. One year I swear I had enough fur to make another dog, and my female with the thickest coat looked like she lost 10 pounds after I finished. Of course it took an hour.
Get them into training ASAP. They can be a stubborn, headstrong, energetic breed. In the wrong hands, this could be a disastrous combination.
They have razor sharp puppy teeth that they like to put to good use. You will most likely end up with some handsome red scratches on your legs/arms/face/etc. Do not fret, this is normal.
If you did not know already, this breed is prone to hip dysplasia. The occurrence of hip dysplasia is based on mainly genetics, weight, and exercise. Hopefully you got your pup from a good breeder who screens the parents' hips and elbows, as orthopedically sound parents will more likely produce orthopedically sound pups. You can also help reduce the likelihood of HD by keeping your GSD lean and on a healthy food. I recommend Victor Nutra Pro here https://www.chewy.com/victor-select-nutra-pro-active-dog/dp/129281 You can find other good foods on Dog Food Advisor. In addition, here is a chart that illustrates the different body types of dogs: http://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-evaluate-your-dogs-weight/ This is just a general guideline of course - the healthy body types will vary slightly by breed. But this is a good starting point. Last point is exercise. Don't put too much stress on their joints at a young age. Ie, don't run them too much, have them jump too much, etc. Keep the exercise low impact at this stage.
I recommend feeding your pup from a Long Wobler, as they can tend to eat fast. You can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502891&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler
I recommend brushing out their fur with a rake and Kong Zoom Groom. You can also find them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062Z0RPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502790&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+rake+brush and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502846&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+groom&dpPl=1&dpID=51QkRAxrf0L&ref=plSrch
I would highly recommend crate training. It's one of the best things you could do for your dog. I like the Midwest 48" crate here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFWCLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496503032&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest%2Bicrate%2Bfolding%2Bmetal%2Bdog%2Bcrate&th=1&psc=1
Let me know if you have any questions!
For the real fine floof, use a slicker brush like this
If you want to get the undercoat out, use a deshedding tool like this one
Brush first with the slicker brush and get all the tangles out before you use the deshedding tool. You may also need a comb to get some of the finer hair straight before going with the deshedding tool. If you really want to manage the hair, make sure you are washing regularly, every 4-6 weeks or so and using a shampoo and conditioner designed to reduce shedding. I really like the Furminator shampoo and conditioner. It helps if you are able to use a high powered dryer to dry them, that will take out so much hair you won't believe it. It will make it a lot more manageable to brush in between baths. If you don't have access to one I recommend you take your dog to a professional groomer.
Source: Worked in a grooming salon for a year
While I don't disagree with the other comment, because yes, once your adult dog is older you can skip many months bathing and only need to brush once a week, there are many, many puppies who do not get groomed enough while young and don't ever get used to it. As a result, it ends up being an extremely stressful process for them and because they were not adjusted to it when they were young, this becomes a PROCESS to reverse later on. This is not just in the realm of grooming - there are so many dogs that are so freaked out that they express their anal glands when they go in for nail trims, dogs whose owners don't realize there are areas that mat easily so they have huge golf-ball sized mats behind their ears that need to be cut out, and dogs that are never acclimated to high velocity dryers so when their owner has to inevitably take them to a groomer because they had never chosen to acclimate their dog to basic grooming processes themselves, the dog freaks the hell out while they are there and that ends up being a hit to their wallet - only a groomer can groom them which becomes expensive, and tougher dogs usually command a higher price because of the time and effort needed to get them groomed.
For a young puppy, you have the best chance of making sure that none of this happens by frontloading the expectations with your little guy or gal and creating a consistent grooming routine. Even if you don't buy your own high velocity dryer, introduce them to the sensations early and often - vacuum cleaner acclimation for the noises, and some people use Shop Vacs or leaf blowers as they do a nice, adequate job on drying young puppy coat. My dog's breeder recommended bathing every week or so until the puppy was 4-6 months old, then dropping down to monthly until they're an adult - you can do this but really make sure you wash all the shampoo and conditioner out so you do not dry the skin. My puppy was tougher due to the fact we had to go to a crazy pet store to do a DIY wash, so we bathed him weekly to get him used to it until 8 months. Once the dog is an adult you can go months without bathing for sure.
When the dog is a puppy, it's important to comb down to the skin to remove mats and tangles a couple times a week. I did it every 2-3 days. This will be hard because it might be annoying or hurt a puppy, and once they realize they have teeth, they will not be afraid to use them, so it's really easy to put it off. Part of the reason it is annoying for a puppy is because as the puppy ages they have a mix of puppy and adult coat, which causes difficult tangles to extract sometimes, and detangling can be a painful process. I made this cheatsheet of spots to take special care with that mat easily especially during various coat transitions so if you focus on these more often you can prevent mats before they even start. Search YouTube for videos on how to groom and line comb dogs, there are tons that will help you with your technique. In general, as long as a dog isn't too tangled, I use a cheap but quality undercoat rake for the big spots a couple times a week to get the undercoat out and prevent matting, which allows me to spot-linecomb the problem areas. I also use a pin brush for the tail (the tines on this model are about 5mm too long than what Sammy people recommended me), although some people prefer to line comb the tail. Slicker brushes are also great for the topcoat, or if you are trying to get that super poofy blown out coat - slickering when the dog is 3/4ths dry from the skin up will get you that "straightening iron"-esque poofy marshmallow look and that's usually how it's done for shown dogs.
Don't forget to handle your puppy's paws and play with it's feet daily, trim nails once every 1-2 weeks, and open to their mouth to inspect their bite (to make sure that if something happens in the future, you or a vet can inspect their teeth without any issue). All of these tend to be very important things that help a lot when your puppy becomes an adult.
We were extra careful with our puppy because we were very lax with a lot of these things with our older dog, a small dog who used to readily accept nail trims, and now she thrashes and snaps so badly we cannot do it at home and have to take her to a groomer and force-feed her chicken nuggets while the groomer does her paws, and absolutely resents baths. We tried very hard to make sure our Samoyed didn't have to go through those levels of stress especially since he's way larger and we wouldn't be able to control him the same if we needed to. My dog is now almost 2, and he's so chill about bathing and grooming now that it's not even remotely a stressful process, even though he was absolutely NOT fun to groom during adolescence (this is a picture of him being dried after not being bathed for almost 2 months). Drying him is actually pretty fun and relaxing and even though honestly I skimp on combing and brushing quite a bit, when we end up doing it he will lay for me nicely and do okay because of all the work we put into him when he was young. :)
When you get a dog that requires grooming, you must not be "scared of hurting him". You won't hurt him if you use the right tools and you're patient. If you try brushing him and he wiggles around a little, that just means he's unsure. You aren't hurting him, promise. You have to brush your dog, and using that tool above, you are not using the right brush, at all. You would never need that type of brush for a cavapoo. Those brushes are designed for short hair dogs with undercoats-- that is a deshedding comb.
Your first step would be to take the dog to a professional groomer, and bite the bullet for the cost. Although typically unless your dog is a real handful, at least in my area the cost for a cavapoo ranges from $45.00 up. Depends on where you go, really. There is no way to get 'dreadlock' mats out of the coat save for shaving them away completely. To try to comb those out is extremely painful for the dog. From there, keep up with the brushing yourself. You will have to get this dog clipped if not every six weeks, every eight weeks, roughly. As you said this dog doesn't shed its hair, it just keeps growing. Even with regular maintenance you'll be looking at a little mophead eventually.
Please, take him to a groomer. Look up groomers in your area and find the one with the best reviews for being gentle and patient. Dematting even through shave downs can be stressful on the dog if they're very bad, although they're by far the gentlest option.
I am a groomer, and just as a tip for the future here are the tools I would use to take care of this pup.
Make sure you're combing through his tail, ears, and muzzle as well as those are all prone to matting also. Check between his toes, as that area with dogs with a lot of hair like him also gets matted up quickly.
Best of luck and I hope this helps.
The furminator actually pulls hair out apparently, which is why dogs don't like it too much. If you have a double coated dog, the furminator is apparently even more destructive.
This is what a groomer recommended to me: http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY
Apparently this company makes good stuff in general. But yeah, I won't be using a furminator.
It's called an undercoat rake.. I made this video for OP after he (or she) asked for a comparison between the rake and a furminator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGbdNySlfQk
Here is the pictured rake: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
Get him brushed by a professional to get his coat looking perfect and then you can do it yourself to maintain it. Just be sure to let the groomer know that he/she shouldn’t trim or shave any of his fur. You’d be surprised at how many groomers don’t know how to groom double coated dogs.
Edit: Here’s a list of all the tools I use to groom my pup.
Edit #2: Was going through my amazon purchase history to see if I could suggest any other grooming products and came across the furminator purchase I made. Never buy one of those things, regardless of how highly rated it is on amazon. It cuts through your dogs coat instead of removing the loose fur. Stick to the rake I linked above.
I'd look for a rubber curry-style brush. The Kong Zoom Groom is a popular option. Brush in a circular motion, and I'd recommend doing it outside--these kinds of brushes don't real capture hair so much as send it flying everywhere.
Hey, I've got a Great Dane who has really short hair. For him we us a zoom groom which is a kinda medium-soft rubber brush. It works pretty well for him, and I would imagine it wouldn't be too painful for any dog. Ours has lasted a pretty long time too (over 2 years) so they're also pretty durable.
You should be brushing at least once a week, maybe even 2x-3x if the hair is longer. To make sure it doesn't get matted. I recommend buying a miracle brush! at Amazon.
My girls were going in 2x a month for trimming and face/feet and bathing. I recently just decided to do them myself and save the money.
Poodles don't really shed, at least mine don't, I think that's the point of a poodle? I never have hair in my house and I have two of them.
It usually takes me about 20-30 minutes to brush out each of my girls, but an hour if I decide to blow them out first.
I find that a fur rake works better and is cheaper, I've used them on Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers and Huskies to great success.
Awww she is a beauty and THANK YOU for saving her! Whoever kept her like this is a monster!
In case you need any tips as a new bunny parent take a look at the little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw . I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide...
​
She looks like a lionhead and possibly mixed jersey woolly bunny. The coat will grow back and she might have been shaved for looks or to help with grooming (this is frequent for fluffy buns.
But be sure to groom her daily to avoid matting and GI blockage.
Bunnies need regular brushing to help them with shedding fur. Unlike cats they cannot throw up hairballs and if those do form, they will create a block in their digestive system which is very dangerous. You need to brush several times a week regularly and when shedding heavily every single day.
Sometimes it can be hard to get those silky fine bun hairs. There very best brush I found is this one - it gets all that loose hair out due to the rubber band and might help you a bit. This brush it worth the cost and will last forever and most buns don't hate it and it's certainly cheaper than ER bills.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing
https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/b3cctl/sesame_getting_brushed_as_requested/ - someone on this forum
Also I would get this brush in size small - this one is god for everyday use to help avoid mats and tangles. It is very gentle.
Try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with brushing as a reward will be expected. Bunnies are VERY food motivated.
Finally found a brush that significantly cuts down Bonnie's daily shed. This undercoat rake is the best thing since sliced bread. I also vacuumed today, and even after having Roomba-ed every day, this is how much fur I picked up. Gotta love my hairy beasts.
In other news, I'm just excitedly waiting for the greyhound adoption folks to get back to me. It's only been a week since I submitted foster applications to two different adoption organizations, and I know that reviewing applications takes time, but I am a little anxious that they might not think I'm a great fit. I did honestly write that I don't have a fenced yard, which worries me a bit, but both organizations stated that this is not a requirement to foster. Hopefully they get back to me soon; if I don't hear anything within the next couple of weeks, I might give them a call to see what's up.
They really don't need to be cut. All that fur is important to them, especially during the summer because of insects and sunburn. You just need to spend some time cleaning out the undercoat. You want to use something like a 'undercoat grooming' rake. This will take quite a bit of time. After this you'll want to do just go back over with a slicker brush/or comb.
If your dog has mats (mine get mats around flanks) then you'll want to apply some dematting spray and then use a dematting comb.
This will help a lot in keeping your derglet cool.
Trimming around flanks, ears, etc is fine. I get my dogs butt flanks trimmed a lot because poop.
A good trick is to purchase a high velocity dryer, it's what groomers use to dry dogs off. It's very effective at knocking lots of the loose hair off, like in this video. Another thing that works well is a good bath every month, which couples well with the high velocity dryer! Furminator also make a shampoo and conditioner combo that's reasonably effective in loosening up a dogs coat for brushing with their brush.
I wouldn't recommend using the Furminator brush every day extensively however, as it can easily cause skin irritation because of how the brush works. Use a slicker brush or a ZoomGroom for daily brushing. I can really recommend the ZoomGroom, as shown in this video, works really well as a daily brushing tool for deshedding. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I don't personally own a German Shepherd (yet!!), but I have several years of experience working as a professional dog bather.
I've never tried or even seen this thing, but it gets great reviews and the idea makes me laugh.
http://www.amazon.com/Paw-Plunger-Dogs-Medium-Black/dp/B000FVXSL2
I love my zoom groom! I have a greyhound who also sheds regularly, and she appears to see it as a massage, while all the hair gets brushed out and left outside. I usually rub it in circles to get the most hair out at once.
We use this one for every-day quick grooming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICB3OWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_FdcnnQb318fFR
And this one about twice a week for dematting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3LKoLDQk78irQ
Edit: The dematting tool is worth the money
I'm in agreement with /u/curigcorgis. A Furminator can cut and break the undercoat furs if you comb too vigorously and too often. That's not something I'm willing to risk, so while I have a Furminator (purchased before I knew any better) I don't ever use it on my corgi.
A Kong Zoom Groom plus a steel greyhound comb is more than enough to deal with loose fur. The Zoom Groom is a rubber brush and is outrageously effective in getting loose fur out. It also doubles as a good shampoo latherer. After, I then comb away the loose furs that the zoom groom caused.
Another great tool is a high velocity blow dryer. Think of it like a hair dryer on crack. Or a shop vac in reverse. It's been a game changer for us after baths and is a must have to deal with heavy shedding times.
My doodle has tight curls as well. I use a slicker brush, a wide tooth comb and a dematting comb for matts that can’t be brushed out. These are the tools I use
Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jLorDbT0ZDW58
OmniPet Leather Brothers Cocker/Poodle Wooden Handle Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E71QEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lMorDb60BC8E5
Safari De-Matting Comb for Dogs, Pet Supplies for Dogs, Dog Grooming, Dog Gifts, Dog Accessories, Dog Supplies, Dog Brushes for Shedding https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMorDb1BAJBTH
I really love the Chris Christensen slicker brush, it’s pricey but the quality is great. It has long firm pins and the tips are soft, so it won’t hurt your doodle. Also it’s highly recommended for doodle coats. It’s best to get a slicker with long firm pins to really get down to the skin. I then follow up with the wide tooth comb to check for any missed tangles. I prefer to use the wide tooth comb because it’s not harsh on the coat and does not cause hair breakage. I rarely use the dematting tool, because I usually can get matts out with the slicker brush, but for the really tough ones I use it sparingly. You should never use a furminator, it’s harsh on the coat and skin, it can damage it. Also I supplement fish oil in my dog’s diet and I’ve noticed his coat is much more shiny and softer. The fish oil I feed is the from the brand fera pet organics. Also I really think it helps to have your doodle on a grooming schedule such as every 5 to 6 weeks, especially with super tight curls. Also be sure to brush and properly dry when ever your doodle gets wet. Might be a good idea to invest in a high velocity dog blow dryer. There’s some great affordable ones on amazon. Brushing your doodle twice or even three times a week is ideal.
I have one of these brushes, it's great for getting cat hair off your furniture/clothes. It clumps the cat hair very compactly, and gets the stray hairs even my lint roller doesn't get. You can even use it on your cat, though it's best used after you've already brushed it, as it only gets the stray dead hairs out.
The fur doesn't come right off, you still have to pick it up after it clumps. It also requires a bit of elbow grease, but so do lint rollers.
We tried furminators too, and they do work at removing shed hair. But they also work at removing unshed hair, and scratching up and cutting the hair that remains. The best thing we've found by far is an undercoat rake. Specifically this one: http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_0
It is cheap, and works very well. It looks like it wouldn't do anything, but it gets shed undercoat out really well without damaging the overcoat. And all our shibas love it (unlike the furminator which was not popular). As soon as we pull it out there is a line of dogs and cats waiting to be brushed.
KONG ZoomGroom, Dog Grooming Brush, Boysenberry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m9Jyxb3YCT21J
This works amazingly. I know it's not conventional, but I use it on my short hair and it gets a lot of the loose hairs out
Coat King and a nice metal dog comb works great. Oster brand makes a good coat rake sold on amazon for a decent price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GNLBDbY3WNHMG
The furminator tends to rip healthy hair out.
If you get one and it grows to look this this: https://imgur.com/a/lDzIvUj
Then this is your friend: https://www.amazon.com/Oster-18-Tooth-Coarse-Shedding-Brush/dp/B00061MWJ0
Light brush (5-10 mins) a night keeps on top of everything.
We know a few others and they all seem to be very social animals - love family and other dogs.
Honestly, I don't do much of anything.
I brush her coat sporadically - when seasons change and in between if she gets particularly dirty/wet. I probably should brush weekly so I wouldn't have to vacuum quite as much. I bathe her 3-4 times a year, usually when she gets overly dirty from rolling in the dirt.
I almost never cut her hair, and clip her nails as needed - maybe once per season.
When I brush I use an undercoat brush like this and larger pin brush. I have a slicker brush too that I've thought about running through her coat, but haven't tried yet.
I'm always amazed at how clean she manages to keep herself. I frequently get asked if she had a bath recently, and it's almost never the case.
For my long hair I use a wire brush that is probably made for dogs (link below). I also use a wire comb. When he has mats I use the bladed tool below to loosen them and cut them away. Don't cut with scissors. It's too easy to cut the skin. I have to use a brush or comb ever other day or he gets mats.
https://www.amazon.com/Your-Dog-078279-102-Combo-Brush/dp/B00ICB3OWU/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1483582710&sr=1-4&keywords=dog+brush
https://www.amazon.com/Dematting-Comb-Hertzko-Cutting-Removing/dp/B017ATHM86/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1483582736&sr=1-1&keywords=wire+comb+cat
https://www.amazon.com/Strimm-Metal-Grooming-Shedding-Detangler/dp/B01ATOK9X4/ref=sr_1_21?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1483582736&sr=1-21&keywords=wire+comb+cat
Apparently, this is for cleaning mud off your dog's paws.
​
Nobody minds when my dog uses it... but when I do they tell me never to come back to the dog park, smh.
"The Stuff" is a great de-tangler, but I've also had good success with PetHead brand stuff that should be available at any Petco/Petsmart. I use this slicker and any metal "Greyhound" style comb will work.
I'm not a fan of furminators. I find they end up cutting the fur more than anything.
As recommended, give them a good bath and blow dry. That will loosen up most of it. I find my trusty comb (like this one ) works very well on my landlords lab, as well as a zoom groom.
We use a furminator too, and while it works, we really have to go to town to get all the undercoat off and it seems like it just rips his top coat apart in the process. I was thinking of getting one of the undercoat brushes to see if that was any better.
Anyone have any experience with something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/
Yeah I've found that the furminator only takes out the top coat, which is the opposite of what you want.
This is what I use for my dog's undercoat and it's excellent at pulling out fluff.
A good brushing outside once or twice a week with a regular ol' pin brush would be a great start. Even a cheapo bristle/pin brush like this would work fine for a start.
You may find you want a slicker brush (closely spaced pins comb through to remove dead undercoat fluff, detangles), a blade type deshedding tool (furminator or similar; removes fluff), a wide toothed comb, blunt tipped scissors (trim feathering and snip out tangles), or a de-matting rake (cuts through mats that are too tangled to brush out). But, start simple with a pin hairbrush and see how that goes before you invest in tons of tools.
If you want to bathe her at home in the tub, you'll want a non-slip mat for the tub floor, a long hose showerhead attachment, a fur catcher over the drain, a helper to hold her and feed treats, and good quality dog shampoo and conditioner. Leave the drain unplugged so she's never standing in deep water. Brush her well before bathing or else the water will make tangles worse. Get her coat really wet all over, lather with diluted shampoo (avoid eyes/ears), rinse out thoroughly, especially checking that her belly doesn't have lingering shampoo. Repeat with the conditioner. Towel dry, then air dry. Cool air dryer if you've got a hair dryer with that option (no hot air).
I use a combination of a slicker-type brush and a Kong Zoom Groom for my Akita/Jindo X who has the typical spitz undercoat.
​
I try to do this daily because I'm a bit OCD with fluff.
​
If I can find a force dryer on sale I might invest in one
Hi, CaptainAre! Quality grooming tools make all the difference. I personally took other peoples' advice and use a FURminator during shedding season. It works great and gets the job done relatively quickly, is very efficient, and leaves my Husky with a soft top coat. Other people also swear by the Oster Rake, but I have yet to try it. I've owned a shedding blade in the past and used to use it on my other dogs, however I've noticed that while it might work on other breeds with thinner coats, it's not necessarily the best tool to use on a Husky. Will it work? Yes, but it's the equivalent to hammering a nail in with a wrench. Quality grooming tools are worth their weight in gold, especially with a Husky's thick undercoat.
Also, from my understanding, all brushes/blades/rakes were designed to be used along the grain of the fur and not against it. The best comparison I could think of would be shaving a beard. Sure, you could get a closer shave if you go against the hairs but it comes at the price of mild discomfort. Same thing goes for a dog's coat.
Another invaluable tool for daily maintenance and upkeep of her coat would be a decent Slicker Brush. Hope this helps!
I use this one for my smooth-coated jack. It's rubber so it grabs the hairs and basically pulls them out most efficiently. Every other brush I've tried just makes them fly around all over the place. A rubber grooming glove works well too.
Any undercoat rake will work just fine. It can have either one or multiple rows of prongs. They look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1495820988&sr=8-8&keywords=undercoat+rake
They have wide set prongs that are usually pretty thick and rounded on the ends. This tool loosens up the dead undercoat and is used prior to using the slicker brush.
Slicker brushes are just your regular wire brush like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Grooming-Ergonomic-Slicker-Brushes/dp/B000F285RI/ref=sr_1_19?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1495821089&sr=1-19&keywords=slicker+brush
Overall, this process will take longer than a Furminator--but remember, a Furminator is actually doing harm to your pet's coat.
It won't help dirt on their bodies, but I use the Paw Plunger after outside playtime/walks/hikes. I have two dogs and the water from the Paw Plunger will often run dark brown when I clean it out after doing their feet. It has saved me SO MUCH mopping!
I love the furminator (short hair version) and the Kong Zoom Groom. I like using the zoom groom during bath time too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040QW33W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542834804&sr=8-3&keywords=furminator+short&dpPl=1&dpID=41hcGO%2BhI4L&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Raspberry/dp/B0002AR19Q?th=1&psc=1
Amazon
I always used a rubber Zoom Groom on my bunny. Sometimes it seemed like I could make a whole 'nother rabbit from the fur he'd shed.
I've used just a slicker brush before which worked. Mylo's coat isn't very thick though
Edit to add: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YIWVA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_djV0CbHEQV583
Just brush. You'll be surprised how much fur you remove. You may need to get him adjusted to being brushed. Lots of positive reinforcement and treats can help. My cat doesn't like being brushed but she tolerates it. I do it in short sessions and give her lots of praise for being a good girl while I do it. I brushed three handfuls of fur off her today. :)
There are many kinds of brushes. I use ones like these and they work well: 1 and 2.
This kind of rubber brush is awesome at removing fur from blankets, cushions, carpets, and other fabrics.
Vacuuming and sweeping frequently helps too.
Still, I keep lint rollers at home, in the car, and at work. Cat hair just gets everywhere.
No need to bathe unless it's a hairless cat or he gets dirty.
It’s seasonal, so it won’t be this bad forever! I find this gets a good deal of that undercoat they shed this time of year out: undercoat rake I like it better than the Furminator because it doesn’t cut the fur at all.
This isn't the exact same brand I have but it's functionally similar:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jE-uCbX9RTFB2
We have towels and this thing (the large one) handy by the door at all times:
http://www.amazon.com/Paw-Plunger-Dogs-Medium-Black/dp/B000FVXSL2
Furminators really are great! On the right coat type. Depending on the coat an undercoat rake may work better. This one by Oster is AMAZING http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0. Rubber curry brushes, like Zoom Groom by Kong, are great for getting the top coat on both double coated and smooth coated dogs. Don't forget a slicker brush and steel comb (for long/double coats)! I have a cavalier and you wouldn't believe the amount he sheds. I use a combination of all these tools for the best results. I'm also a groomer, so I'm a little anal with it.
They are pretty low maintenance. Just the occasional bath, nail trim, and brush them with a rubber curry brush, I recommend this one http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417920179&sr=8-1&keywords=Zoom+Groom
I prefer a shedding blade over a furminator. Seems less harsh and my girl hates it less.
Zoom Grooms and Slicker Brushes are good also.
Ultimately, the most helpful thing for me has been a high velocity dryer to just blast the damn hair right out.
Hi there. I'm not sure if it is the same for all breeds. I had a Pyrenees and we had two mats saved out and that never grew back. There was a lot of debate about it when I was looking if it grew back or not for pyrs. Some said theirs grew back just fine others said it never grows back at all.
I do know that the furminator is damaging to the top coat regardless of it growing back or not. I never recommend it for any dog with two coats, but if the dog has only one then I think it's a fantastic tool.
I linked to what I used in my last comment, it worked great was durable, survived my pup chewing on it for a few minutes too.
I'm told that slicker brushes work great for removing undercoats, stainless steel combs too, my groomer used a combination of tools for my pup.
Here's links to what they used
https://www.amazon.com/Andis-2-Inch-Steel-Comb-65730/dp/B004UTDHP2/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA
https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0WOME4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480770&sr=1-11&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUABBQS/ref=mp_s_a_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480894&sr=1-71-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs&psc=1
I thought it was a lot of different tools myself, but it's hard to argue the results because he came out looking fantastic Everytime.
I removed the undercoat myself, which the two ladies really appreciated, with just the comb but never made him look as good as they did.
In case you need a cheap, temporary solution this saved my life.
If you're willing to spend some extra money I'd highly recommend this brush https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-Slicker-Brush-Large/dp/B00KAJQJ74 , I use it every day when grooming and it works wonders on knots and mats. Otherwise any long pinned slicker brush in combination with a greyhound comb or metal comb will work well https://www.chewy.com/andis-steel-pet-comb-75-in and of course maintaining a regular brushing schedule :)
http://www.amazon.ca/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
And I bought one of their dual sided brushes as well.
We use this to cut through mats that are really tough but first we go over him with the safari slicker brush and then a fine tooth comb (literally!) lol
Get a brush like this. Give him a bath and brush him with the soap on, after you rinse, and after you dry. Works wonders with my pup. Also, try supplementing with fish oil.
I would recommend this comb - it's not very expensive but I find it does the job well.
I would also get a small slicker brush.
I've never groomed a Shih Tzu so perhaps if I'm wrong here some can correct me but I would suggest getting a conditioning spray and lightly mist the dog before you brush as it will help to get any mats and tangles out easier. I use it all the time with my Samoyeds and it really does make the job easier.
Oh my god I love him!!! Also side note, I’m a dog groomer. Please consider investing in the Chris Christensen slicker brush to keep his coat from getting matted. This one is safe and good to brush all the way through so you could run a comb through it and see the skin. I can’t tell you how many matted doodle pups that brush has worked magic on! Here’s a link : Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hQG4DbVQG2J86
This may sound silly, but this $64 Chris Christensen brush
has been a godsend. It smooths out the mattes so nicely and quickly, and the brush itself feels very sturdy. I feel like it’s an investment that we have made for optimal brushing.
>First of all i would like to clarify that i am 14 years old, so i don't know if i am that capable of training my dogs
You're absolutely capable. There are actually quite a few teens who compete in sports like agility with their dogs. Do some searching on YouTube for inspiration!
>Second thing, one of my dogs has Down Syndrome, i think, i know it is a brain disorder and he is really dumb
Has this dog been actually medically diagnosed with a condition? Or is he just not very bright? Some dogs/breeds are scary smart and can out-think you, and other dogs aren't the brightest things out there, but all are capable of learning. Some tricks will just take much longer to teach.
>the other one releases a lot of fur
This isn't a training issue. Depending on the dog's fur length, get either a Furminator or a Zoom Groom. They have generic versions of these at Walmart. I like the Furminator for longer hair and really fluffy dogs, and the Zoom Groom for short haired dogs, though honestly just get any old brush, even a hair brush, and start working on it.
> one of them is peeing inside
http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/housetraining
>And i'm afraid of walking alone with my dogs, i want everybody to go with me
It doesn't sound like you can rely on your family going with you. See if one of your parents will agree to schedule a time every day to go with you, or bring a friend or sibling. Walk one dog at a time if there are issues with pulling or lunging.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/index
https://www.youtube.com/user/zakgeorge21
https://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup
I just use a simple rubber curry brush. Works like a charm and my guy likes the "massage" it gives him in the process. The one I specifically use is a Kong Zoom Groom.
Happy for you and the dog!
First, buy one of these:
http://www.petco.com/product/100491/KONG-Zoom-Groom-Brush.aspx (Amazon is cheaper)
and one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
These will help with the shedding. It's a lot. Adding salmon oil to her food can also help (talk to a vet first). And yes, she will certainly be able to learn a new name! It took my guy about a day. Your mileage may vary.
Finally, shameless plugs for r/germanshepherds and r/GermanShepherd. Lots of helpful people. Best of luck!
Sure, so I can walk you through what I did in the grooming salon whenever a dog with a lot of hair came in (that was shedding).
Ok, first thing you need to do is find a self-serve dog wash. It has to have a high-powered hair dryer like this. The dryer is very important.
Ok, so get your dog tied in the tub securely, and before you do anything else, turn the dryer on and blow out the loose hair. Your results will vary for this, it's especially effective on huskies/malamutes, but it works on my Pyr as well when he's blowing his coat out. You want to be slow with the dryer if your pup has never experienced one before. They are quite loud, and most dogs really hate the air in their face. So, hold the hose behind your back, turn the dryer on, and just wait and see how your dog reacts. If they seem scared by the noise, try to be really calming and reassuring to them. If it seems like they are okay, bring the dryer up, and slowly tilt the nozzle down onto your dog's rump. Move slowly to let them get used to the feel, making sure to gently correct when they are fussing, and reward them when they behave. I've found it helps my dog to tie a towel around his head over his ears, as he's not bothered as much by the feel of the air as he is by the sound.
Anyway, blow from underneath, focusing around the upper leg area especially. A lot of people focus on the back/neck, but in my experience, more hair comes from the belly where it joins with the back legs, and the leg itself. Blow and maybe lightly/gently brush to loosen up the hair and blow it free.
Ok, now you're ready to start the bath. Get your dog wet, and then apply shampoo liberally. You want to use a type of shampoo that is specifically designated for deshedding. I personally love the Furminator shampoo and conditioner. It smells like a pina colada, and more importantly, it works. Really do not be afraid to lather it in there, really work the shampoo in with your fingers, applying more water as you need to. Let the shampoo sit for a few minutes before rinsing.
Next, apply the conditioner. Same thing, really work it in. Let the conditioner sit for as long as you can be patient for, up to 10 minutes. Now, here is the thing that really works wonders: blow dry your dog while the conditioner is still in. I'm not sure if it's the heaviness of the conditioner, but that will really get a lot of hair out.
Rinse the conditioner, it's really important to make sure you rinse really, really well. Make sure to do touch tests. If the hair feels slimy or slick, there's still conditioner in there. Work from the top down and really pay attention to the belly, chest, and armpit areas.
Ok, that's it! Dry your dog off with towels, and the blow dry all the way. You will be surprised at how much hair comes out for the dryer. It really makes a huge difference in how soft/manageable to makes their coats, too.
If you want, you can also brush with a deshedding brush. I would recommend a mix of a slicker brush, deshedding rake, and a Furminator. The slicker brush you'll mostly use to make sure there are no mats or tangles, as the two deshedding brushes will hurt if they go over tangles or mats. So, brush through with the slicker brush, and then go over with the deshedding tools. As you work with them, you'll figure out where each tool works best.
That's what you would get if you came to me when I was still working at PetSmart and ordered a Furminator package. It will not eliminate shedding, but it will help a heck of a lot. I do this for my Pyr every 6 months or so. Regular bathing will also help with shedding. For a Pyr, once a month, or every 6 weeks or so is best, with regular brushing.
Let me know if you have any other questions about bathing/grooming!
Link to the rake
From what I gather, they are more meant for short coated breeds and they cut hair as they comb and often end up damaging the top layer.
The rake breaks up tangles and dense patches in the undercoat and removes the loose bits, while allowing the flowing topcoat to pass through unharmed.
My pit mix is blowing out her coat now. Fur everywhere. My Pointers put her to shame. I sweep every day and I could build a dog from the pile. Not all dogs shed the same. Just keep up with the daily brushing. I use a rubber brush that the fur sticks to. They love it, my one boy brings it to me when he wants to be brushed. It must feel like a massage or something. This is the one I use. Do not shave your dog. It can really mess with their coat over time. When I switched my dog to a complete raw diet it did really cut down on the shedding, but it did not eliminate it. It was more noticeable durning the time of year when they're not blowing their coats.
I have a brush like this I got from the hardware store I work at. I didn't have any faith in it at first, but it works wonders.
The wires can be sharp, though. Do not clean it with your fingers, I cut my thumb that way. It's like a slightly deeper paper cut, but still.
:)
I know you have a mixed breed. However, I have found this rescue has some great staff and articles. I have emailed them a few times over the year, and they have been willing to help.
http://newf-friends.blogspot.ca/p/resources.html
Here's a cheat sheet that one of their members wrote:
http://www.newfstock.ca/pdf/GROOMING-YOUR-NEWFOUNDLAND.pdf
My favourite tools:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HZBJ19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483710947&sr=8-4&keywords=undercoat+rake+pets
https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Grooming-Tools-Rainbow-Greyhound/dp/B0055M11RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483710996&sr=8-1&keywords=Greyhound+comb
On a personal note, my male regularly gets matts around his ears if I don't use a wide tooth comb or under coat rack to pull the dead fur out. My female is usually the back of rear legs. I have found with mine that if there's matts it's more because the old shedded fur didn't make it to the surface to be left our the house. I now use a daily 15 minute brush out during the week, and a 30 minute detailed brushing on the weekend. Usually while watching some tv.
> we use the paw plunger
What the heck??
This is one of those things I never knew existed but now that I do, I want one.
Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!
One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!
Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.
You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.
For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.
For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.
Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(
We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!
Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!
Dog paw wiper. https://www.amazon.com/Dexas-MudBuster-Portable-Cleaner-Medium/dp/B01N64DCPR But still tempting.
We use Merrick grain free pork and sweet potato. I am not sure if it's available outside of Texas though. We had good luck with Castor and Pollux Organix grain free, but we wanted to find something similar that used local ingredients. One thing to note is that we tried various formulas of Merrick until we found the one that produced the most solid stool. You might be able to find another Blue Buffalo formula that produces firmer stool.
We use Kong's Zoom Groom brush. It's great both for bath time and for regular brushing. It's gotten pretty hot here in Texas, so I take the hounds out to the courtyard in our apartment complex and brush them there. This brush gets handfuls of hair out of them!
When my wooly Mally is blowing her coat, it is a multi-step process. Step one is using a slicker brush like /u/blounsbury linked - that helps get rid of most of the loose fur. I then move on to a rake style undercoat brush, often in conjunction with a de-matting rake. That will get the bulk of the undercoat out. The second to last step is using a metal comb to make sure all of the undercoat "chunks" are out. The final step is going over with the slicker brush for the final time.
Understand that this is a multi-day event. While the sound of "blowing the coat" sounds like something that should just suddenly happen, it takes place over a week or so. I measure my Mally's fur output in cats. Day one is usually one cat-sized lump of fur. Day two is like three. By day 3 and 4, we're usually down to a cat a day.
My Shiba uses one brush for his entire grooming process when he's blowing his coat - The Furminator. It does zip for a wooly Malamute (even the long-haired version does nothing).
I like to use a rake and a slicker. There are various deshedders out there, depends on which style you get. I found that mine (a cheap furminator knockoff) works better on my lab than my long haired malamute - she has too much fur, it fills up in one swipe when she's actively shedding. But I know lots of people that LOVE their Furminator though, so I think I'm in the minority, there!
More important than what you use, is how often you use it. As long as you're brushing him at least a couple times a week, his coat/skin will stay clean and healthy.
Here ya go.
A large part of grooming is personal preference. They have outdoorsy coats that don't require frequent maintenance. Some Aussies coats are sort of water and dirt resistant (not to say they won't get dirty but rather it flakes off easily without your personal intervention).
I primarily focus on reducing the quantity of hair balls in my house. This take brush was suggested by a fellow member of this subreddit. Aside from that I trim the excess dirt between their paws and underneath it once in a blue moon.
http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
http://i.imgur.com/vnw0QJ2.jpg
I just ordered this to be overnighted, supposed to be here today. You will need something similar. It has good reviews.
Good handheld pet vacuum
Also, my cats love this and it's really easy to get the hair from Kitty brush!
I watched a groomer video recently and found all of these from her video
Try the Zoom Groom by Kong. I think it's way better than the furminator and really won't damage their coats.
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392572821&sr=1-10&keywords=dog+grooming
I use it twice a year and don’t have any problem with her coat. She looks amazing as usual. I wouldn’t use it everyday or anything. But definitely helps with the seasonal shedding. For every week brushing I use the Zoom Groom
Also just about cried out loud when I saw the furminator!
After using many brushes, including the furminator (I didn't know better at the time) this is by far my favourite. Brush the dog backwards, as in tail to head to really get out the fur that wants to come out, then forward for a nice clean finish.
Kong ZoomGroom
Edit: Realized I put in the small version, this is the regular one.
WOW! so much great info! exactly what I was looking for! So you would recommend the DIY self service > PetSmart Furminator package?
Thanks for getting me the info while on mobile, i looked at furminator brush but thought that cant be the only thing i need, and couldn't find a specific grooming source this was super helpful. I will look into both DIY & Furminator.
Just to make sure i got the DIY procedure down:
Thanks for the help! seems like DIY could cost me about ~$50-60. I just thought it would cost more for the tools they had in this grooming pyranees video
JW, particularly for the undercoat rake. I've used the more expensive ones, but this is what gets the job done.
http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=pd_bxgy_199_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VBDBBFR82H4KWN5K34K
I absolutely love our ZoomGroom!
Works great if the dogs are dry or wet and it's super easy to clean.
I just found a cheap one at my grocery store’s pet supplies section. It’s a pretty basic one, kinda like this:
Paw Brothers Extra Long Hard Pin Slicker Brush, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxjqDbHHGG4R0
except a smaller size for my mini AD
Yes because when he’s clean, that’s when the hair is going to be the easiest to remove.
If you want to brush him in the bath to loosen up the hair (which is a good idea and makes brushing afterwards easier), you’ll want to use something like this. It won’t damage the coat or skin. You can also safely use a metal comb while he’s wet to remove clumps of hair. Or you can use your fingers. Just really scrub him very well.
If you’re using a de-shedding tool such as The Furminator or one of the many versions of it, you will want to make sure that he is thoroughly dry before you use it. If the skin or coat is wet it can cause irritation or damage. You also want to make sure you’re using it correctly. Set an alarm on your phone for 15 minutes and once that time is up, put the brush down and stop. Don’t go over one area more than a few times. You will be tempted to continue because you will likely still be removing large amounts of hair but if you do too much, it will damage the skin/coat. Tools like that are meant more for long term success, so if you use it once a week (and no more than that), you can drastically reduce the amount of shedding. It requires patience though and a lot of people wait until their dogs are dropping their coats and then go crazy brushing with it, which is usually where reports of damaged coats come from.
Your best bet is a combination of the rubber brush, the comb and a slicker brush. These can be used often with very little risk of damage and will remove a lot of hair.
We have this Chris Christensen brush for brushing out. I got it for like $15 less and they occasionally pop up as warehouse deals on Amazon. I was told to not cheap out on the slicker because some of the less quality ones are hard on the skin, but I have only used this one so I can't comment.
This Madan pin brush for brushing while blow-drying (regular size, medium cushion). I liked it because of the quality pins with beveled ends (so no poking the skin). And also the choice of colors.
We also have a comb - this is the one I bought because of the rotating teeth and rounded ends. Used to check for mats/remove mats after brushing.
Right now it's been very wet and I am thankful I invested because my walker just towels her off and she had a few leg mats that I had to pick through. With a conditioning spray and gentle brushing I was able to remove them with minimal pain (and lots of bribes).
I don't think you'll need to do a ton of brushing on the puppy coat, though it's great to get them used to it, especially up standing on a table. My pup's is pretty tangle-free unless she gets very wet and isn't dried and brushed properly. If she's not wiggly, it takes maybe 15 minutes to do everything.
This brush: Miracle Coat Slicker Dog Brush, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFRY76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AhnHDb03FP7BJ
Saves me sooo much time dematting, it just glides through way easier. If the coat is very long then
This brush: Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zwnHDbP5YZG89
This one is a dream, pricey but will save lots of time, there is a learning curve with this one though so don't be discouraged if it's a bit awkward at first. Pair each one with a metal grey hound comb.
Best slicker brush I have found on the market. It works great for long coated dogs and imo a must have for poodles and doodles. https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-Slicker-Brush-Large/dp/B00KAJQJ74
I used a double row undercoat rake. I read furminators aren't good for husky's guard coat.
Hair type : (previously) heavily damaged, split ends up to 3" long, oily scalp very dry ends and mid shaft (obviously). Now, heavily chemically treated (bleach), long, ridiculously thick and a ton of it, frizz. photo more hair
oddly enough what helped me the most was stealing my dogs silicon bath brush, called a zoom groom and cutting back the amount that I washed my hair. The brush really helped clean residue off my scalp which cut down on oil production plus not washing as often helped regulate the production so it wasn't oil city. I wash once a week now with Joico Moisture Recovery, which is a PH balanced shampoo and condition set, non AB. I wash after a cold oil treatment on my hair (sometimes I'll wrap it up in a hot towel and heat the oil while on the strand) and scalp for 12-48 hours depending on what my schedule allows. The oil treatment is a combination of jojoba oil, avocado oil, argan oil.
After the wash and condition I have combined those oils along with a bit of my conditioner and filtered water into a spray bottle to use as a leave in conditioner. I'll use that throughout the week to tame frizz and treat any dryness.
YES it's called a miracle brush, buy this, it will make your life better.
Also, while you're at it, invest in a greyhound comb. It has two sides. Use the wide toothed side to find matts, which you shave out with a clipper with a #10 blade. The fine toothed side will be used to check your work. DO NOT USE THIS TO DEMATT. Also, DON'T USE SCISSORS TO DEMATT. (I yelled this, I actually yelled this).
Next, for double coated dogs, i use a Furminator and a Zoom Groom. Furminator is a blade. Don't do the same area for too long, your dog will get skin irritation. It gets out the undercoat. The zoom groom is good for top coat, and the dogs love how it feels.
Hope some of this helps.
I would also look in to mobil groomers to come to your house. You may have to drop $100, but it'll be worth it. Promise. We professionals know best.
Thank you for the compliments :)
>Personally I loathe the Furminator
That's interesting to hear. I don't know much about it, outside of the fact is will get a lot of fur off of him. I only used based on info online so I'd interested to hear more if you don't mind.
Specific kinds of brushes you mentioned are talked about here:
For a weekly routine at home, what would you recommend for day to day brushing (without bathing)?
We plan to take him to the groomer for a bath (either by them or ourselves) every 4 - 8 weeks (once we figure out what works).
This is the one we use, love it. Pulls out a new fur puppy every time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJA/
Yes! I recently bought this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Paw-Brothers-Extra-Slicker-Brush/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=large+slicker+brush&qid=1556802844&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It's my new go-to brush. Gets lots of loose undercoat fur out, and does a much better job of taming the fur on his hips/by his fluffy butt than what I used before.
We also use a regular rake that I bought at a pet store on a whim like 5 years ago.
I still need help taming his mane, though, if anyone has any tips...
My favorite is the Oster undercoat rake. Its very efficient and my dog loves being brushed with it. I have a slicker brush and FURminator and they're both decent, but they are more time-consuming and my dog has mixed feelings about being groomed with them.
You need three things:
Use the wire brush every couple days, furminator every week, and vacuum regularly.
Well I'm in no way a dog expert hah. I would seek out any local trainers/behaviorist in your area. With the shedding problem though a good weekly run down with a rake would help tremendously. I use this one:
Oster Professional Pet Grooming Undercoat Rake, 18 Teeth Wide, Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_chUBwbKD1SYTC
It does an amazing job of pulling out the thick undercoat while leaving the top coat (the guard hairs) untouched. The thick undercoat is the culprit of all the masses of hair you see around the house, while the guard coat is very important to the dogs temperature regulation. You never want to shave, trim, or use a furminator on a double coated dog. It will do more harm than good.
As for the food aggression I would google some tips or seek out a professional. Sorry I couldn't be more help!
> im very paranoid about putting my future suit in the wash. i hear its really good for them (of course, when inside out, all tail fluff/digitigrade styrofoam taken out, and put on gentle), but i just dont trust it and i want to preserve it for as long as it can. is it better to handwash it or should i trust it and put it in the wash?
Washing your suit in some fashion is basically (or should be) required. Suits will start to retain your sweat and funk over time, and no-one wants to hug a smelly suit.
However, exactly how you wash it will vary, both depending on your preferences as well as how the suit is put together. Generally, you will want to see if your suit maker has any particular instruction/guide for washing their suits first, as they will likely know best what will and won't work well (maybe).
Machine washing is sometimes an option, but usually only on gentle settings with delicate detergent (like Woolite). Not all suits will do well, such as those with airbrushing, but it can be an option. However, NEVER expose the suit to heat - it will melt the fibers and likely ruin the look of the fur. That means NO DRYER, unless it you explicitly only use the spin cycle (no heat).
Hand washing is also a decent option and may be safer, though it is much more involved and difficult. Usually done in a bathtub, again using a delicate soap like Woolite or similar.
Drying in both cases requires laying the suit out to air dry. You must keep the whole thing supported, as water is heavy and can stretch the suit if hung up. This can take a long time, so squeeze (or spin) out as much of the water as you can beforehand.
It's also a good idea to brush the suit once it has been cleaned, to keep the fur looking good. You can use pet fur slicker brushes for this.
Finally, not all fursuit parts should (or need to) be washed. Anything with foam should not be (mostly just the head), as it will retain water and grow mold. Tails don't generally need washing unless they drag a lot. Feetpaws too, especially if they have foam.
> ive done a little bit of research and read that its good to use 75/25 water and isopropyl alcohol (with mint scent if desired) as a disinfectant, is this recommended or is there a better recommendation? (yes, i am aware about the damage lysol can do)
That should work fine. I don't recall the proportion I use (might be 50/50? Probably not, I'd need to check) but it works fine for disinfecting. Just be sure to do it in some open space, as the stuff hangs in the air and isn't great to smell.
> what kind of brushes are the best for grooming and removing mats but without removing a lot of fur? i cant find a good one online, out of the few sites ive visited, but my current candidates are this brush and a big fat maybe on this brush , but i only looked up what is best for actual pets and not for fursuits...
You'll probably want something more like this. That's actually the one I use, though backwards. Be gentle brushing, as any fur you remove will not grow back, but don't worry too much about losing a bit of fur. It happens.
> fursuit owners, whats your recommendation on a good place to... actually get a fursuit?
I don't really have specific recommendations (though I got mine here), but I would advise you to really do some research and find a few options with prices/features you want. Bear in mind that there are a lot of makers out there and they can vary a lot in style and construction. Many of the popular and well-known makers may have long queues and don't open for commissions long.
It may help to have what features you really want in mind, then find a few makers that can do it (if you aren't sure, ask! Many will answer email questions). Get a quote or two or three, then make your decision based on all the factors (waiting time, price, style, etc). Take your time as needed.
> i know it can get boiling hot in those suits, so i was thinking about purchasing some cooling packs to go along with me, such as a cooling vest, cooling scarf, maybe something for my legs and forehead, etc. and of course if they run out of coldness, i can always stop at the headless lounge or my room, but still... is this a good idea, or should i just go with the traditional in-suit fans?
No matter what you use, you WILL get hot in suit and you WILL sweat. Measures such as fans and cooling vests will help, but it's still going to be warm in there.
As far as recommendations, I'd consider some kind of underarmor - specifically the heat gear, NOT the cold stuff. You want something that will both catch the sweat and cool you off as you move. A balaclava is also recommended, even though some fursuit heads may have one built in (wear two!).
If that's not an option for some reason, plainclothes such as T-shirt and pants can work fine. DON'T suit naked, you will not like it.
Fans are nice to have in the head but not all makers include them - you may have to put one in yourself. It's important to remember that they need a flow of cooler air to work well, so unless you have an open mouth or some other opening you may not want to bother with one.
Cooling vests are nice but can cost a decent amount. They're not strictly necessary (I don't have one), but I have heard good things about them. It's maybe worth considering, but I don't have a real opinion on their effectiveness.
The most important thing is to ultimately be careful and know your limits. It gets really hot in suit, but with practice it's more than manageable. Don't be afraid of the heat, but do take it seriously! And drink plenty of water!
> i wear glasses... and that maaaaay be a problem for my fursuit. since... the nose sits so close to the wearer's nose. (i am using a cat sona for my first suit) should i get contacts, or try to fit the glasses over the character's eyes, or maybe just cut a piece of styrofoam to fit the center of the glasses?? agh, i dunno...
The maker may be able to account for this and leave room in the head for them - at least from my limited experience, many will ask about it when getting a quote. I will say that this isn't always perfect either - I did mention it when mine was being made, but it turned out to be just a hair too small to be comfortable wearing them... so I go without.
Contacts will be easier on this, obviously (though I don't like them so I don't use them). However, depending on your vision without glasses, it may not matter. Fursuit vision can be pretty limited to begin with, so the lack of glasses may or may not make so huge of a difference. That said, it might be preferable to have them.
> lastly... are furcons even safe? i know theres a TON of people who hate furries and, i hope, joke around saying theyll go and shoot up a con, or something... yes, i know to go with a friend, and to not leave after midnight.
Absolutely, and in fact they tend to be one of the only places one can really fursuit without a handler (though having one anyways is not a bad idea). In my experience, you don't really see any 'hate' at these things - you're more likely to just see people outside being a bit bemused... or curious enough to join in.
Going with a friend is a good idea, especially if you will be suiting (if you go outside of con space you will NEED a handler). You'll likely have more fun with one than you would alone anyways.
The threats about cons may happen, but people actually carrying them out are practically nonexistent. The reality is that some people will say big nasty things online that they'd never bother carrying out in person, and we get our share of that. Most people really aren't bothered by it, though, and the con organizers will likely be prepared to deal with such possibilities... if they even ever happen.
> aaaand i think that does it...! yeah, i know thats a lot, but i dont wanna make any mistakes for my first suit!
It's good that you're putting a lot of thought and preparation into this, but don't stress out too much.
The only extra thing I'll mention is to really consider how much you will get use out of a suit, as they're not something you'll just throw on anytime and wearing them at home gets old fast. You don't need a fursuit to go to a convention either (in fact, you may have an easier time without one for your first). They're not magic either - you'll feel less like you're an anthro and more like you're covered in a fuzzy carpet you can barely see out of.
But it can be a lot of fun and is a unique experience, to be sure, so don't take this as too much discouragement. Just bear in mind that a fursuit is an expensive investment, and you will probably want to get the most out of it that you can.
Good luck with your endeavors, and if you have any other specific questions I will try to answer. I'm not an expert at this so others might have better answers for you, but hopefully this helps.
Something like this?
Oster Professional Pet Grooming Undercoat Rake, 18 Teeth Wide, Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NezuybJYSQMCD
I use warm water and one of these cleaners if they're muddy. Then just towel dry them.
If they're not too bad I make him do some spins on a towel to dry them off.
https://smile.amazon.com/Dexas-MudBuster-Portable-Cleaner-Medium/dp/B01N64DCPR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dog+paw+cleaner&qid=1574553075&sprefix=dog+paw&sr=8-3
Link for a similar one
I use something like this brush and I have a lion lop going through malt at the moment. This gets loads of hair out (can make a life sized bun with all the hair). And you can brush them backwards and forwards to loosen some of the hair without hurting. You will find that it comes in patches, mainly on the back first then it gradually spreads out from there. But as hair grows at different rates all over the new coat might not come in everywhere first.
I guess that depends on what you mean by good... I like the tighter curl look. So, I brush mine out right before a bath so their curls are tight afterwards. I also keep their hair pretty short. When they were longer during the winter, I brushed them daily to keep the mats out.
Here is the brush I use: http://www.amazon.com/Safari-Self-Cleaning-Large-Small-Slicker/dp/B000YIWVA0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427503207&sr=1-4&keywords=dog+brush
It works well for getting out tangles.
I use a Mars Coat King on my Pyr; this Oster undercoat rake is also good, it just doesn't have replaceable blades like the Coat King does. Undercoat rakes work really well to get out that undercoat while they're blowing it, without cutting the long top guard hair. I don't care for Furminators, which tend to have tines which are far too short to really get into a Pyrenees undercoat, and will instead pull and break the guard hair. You need to comb the rake with the direction of the coat, and it will help tremendously. It's what my mobile groomer guy uses on mine, and I keep one on hand to run through her coat about mid-way between grooming sessions.
Pin/Slicker brushes are sometimes not terribly effective on Pyr coats - some dogs have a super thick undercoat, and for those cases, a greyhound comb is usually a little better for a weekly brush session.
Now that I think about it, she does it sometimes. I've always thought she was trying really hard not to fall asleep when she does it.
I brush her about once a week. She hates the brush with a fiery passion though so it usually ends up with me chasing her around with it. This is the one I use. I found that she has really light hairs and they come out really easily so that brush is great because it doesn't scratch her and also picks up loose hair with static since it's rubber. She keeps really good care of her fur though so the brushing once a week is pretty sufficient.
I also give her a trim once in awhile when I notice that her hair is blocking her eyes (she tends to run into walls then but I've read that hair in front of the eyes can be helpful for albinos since they're more sensitive to light. maybe something particular to the rabbit then). She also gets hay stuck in her face fluff so I try to trim it down a bit. If you do this, be very careful of trimming the whiskers by accident. They'll grow back but they're important for a rabbits balance. I also trim down her butt fluff once she starts catching things (hay and stuff) in it.
You're in for a joyride once his heavy shed starts. :) I recommend investing in lots and lots of lint rollers. Especially if you have any black clothing. Cricket goes through a heavy shed once every three months (probably with the seasonal change) and a not as heavy shed every month. During any of her sheds but especially the heavy ones, you can basically see clouds of fluff drifting everywhere in my apartment. :)
Congrats on your bun though. Lots of binky's and love coming your way!
Edit: A quick warning on the brush thing. I've found that furminators and any metal brushes tend to pull out more hair than anything else. It might just be particular to my rabbit but be careful nonetheless!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR19Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I was using. Before or after it just brings her oils up where if I don't use it shes clean for at least 2.5 - 3 weeks before I feel oil/grease and then I wash her on week 4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015UE70PI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does something similar but doesn't seems to bring the oil up.
So you could be right, maybe not getting full contact with her skin. To be honest her fur is short but thick and it seems to just absorb the shampoo no matter how much I use.
Try a zoom groom.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q?cache=126b6ac42a395854cb4ee553af7b9b1a&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411608166&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I had a very hairy cat...I took off about a lb of fur the first time I brushed him. Works well on dogs and cats!
I unfortunately purchased a Furminator and definitely agree it is sharp as hell. My cat really doesn't like that brush so [I went with the advice of her groomer and finally picked up a rake brush.] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00061MWJA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462467089&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=oster+rake&dpPl=1&dpID=31gwOLKEQSL&ref=plSrch)
I've "brushed" at my arm with both of these brushes to feel how rough they were, and the Oster definitely does not leave visible scratch marks on my skin unlike the jagged Furminator. It also removes loads of hair while leaving her coat thinned out and pretty looking. Unsure if this will help preserve the specific coat needs of your pups, but it helped my cat with the matting and really removes piles of floof. There's also multiple sizes of this brush, if you do choose to buy one. It's extremely sturdy and has rounded edges so the blade doesn't contact the skin.
Just get one of these. By far the most effective cat brush I have ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375334960&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
We use the JW Undercoat Rake for our German Shepherds. It works much better than the Furminator and they love it. You'll have to follow it with another tool to collect all the stray hair though.
I used a pro quality pin brush. Something smaller might be better for a small dog. Do not use any pressure, just stroke it along his coat. As you brush the pins unsnarl the fur and eventually get down to the skin. If you have patience and the pins on the brush are smooth so his skin doesn't get scratched he'll settle down and allow this.
You are never supposed to pull the brush/comb through but it's hard when you think the dog is going to start acting up at any second. Unless mats are causing pain calm down and just run the brush over his back, sides, his silky ears and try to get a stroke on the rear end and tail when he's relaxed. Tiny treats and try to be calm and praise good behavior and talk about how wonderfully silky his fur is and you know the drill.
One stroke today on back. when back is easy move to an ear, under the chin, the sides, the front legs and dare to get a swipe on the tail and rear end every once in a while. No pressure on brush, let it do the job.
Groom daily. Don't get it all done every day but over the week try to get him completely brushed out at least 3x. Damaged hair snarls but if brushed and never allowed to get matted you may get lucky. My stinker's coat resembles that of a LHD. He came here covered with mats but hasn't had any bad ones after they were cut out and frequent gentle grooming done. Well except for the mats caused by the nature he's always dragging in the house. He's got something sticky on his thigh I need to cut out now and there's sap on his toes I'm leaving alone.
Andis deshedding rake and Paw Brothers slicker brush, both on amazon.
Andis Premium Deshedding Tool, Pet Grooming (80490) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0WOMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pkp5AbKQYTG0V
Paw Brothers Extra Long Hard Pin Slicker Brush, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Skp5AbC3D68K4
A photo of your dog might change my answer, but these are my usual deshedding tools.