Best electrical outlet covers according to redditors

Lockable outlets would be a good idea. They are pretty cheap and come in different styles. I'd recommend something like this which is pretty much an outdoor waterproof cover. Easy to lock with any kind of lock you might already have.

Here's something that HELPS ... won't protect 100%, but helps.

https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-41081-4WP-Angled-QuickPort-Wallplate/dp/B003ATOCDO

When they do spill, it runs down the cable, but not into the jack itself.

Next is to put it tab up, which helps the ones with cables in.

Tab down helps the ones WITHOUT cables, so that's a 50/50 if you have unused drops.

If you're paranoid enough, there's outdoor faceplates such as https://smile.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y/

Note: Both linkes are to smile.amazon.com because I do one of the charities that, well, smile.amazon.com supports. Swap "www" for "smile" if you are concerned about that at all.

RwP

You can buy them online. You'd just have to install it.

Switch cover from Amazon like one of these

https://smile.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-2202-Magnetic-Switches/dp/B01ATZDAWU

https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Security-product/dp/B00DUBOSTA

An outlet cover https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C

You can either get a physical cover for the switch so people know not to turn it off or you can remove the switch and just join the line and load wires to be permanently closed and then put a blank cover over the switch.

I bought these.

What the other poster already said, it's USB-A -> Micro-USB.

It's only powering 5V DC @ 1000mA.

You're using an indoor device, and an indoor outlet.

If you really wanted to be 'up to code' you'd install an outdoor AFCI / GFCI outlet and a waterproof box like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JEPX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You would use the included 1000mA AC adapter and keep it waterproof inside there, making it AFCI GFCI compliant up to 2014 NEC code.

There is no RJ45 -> microUSB and RJ45 -> USB and solution that you're thinking of - the above is the actual 'compliant' method.

A 6-12 foot Micro-USB extension cable that's 12 foot is just fine. If you want to be safe, run it through some conduit for protection.

You could use a Switch guard

This is for a decora style, but they make ones for regular toggle style switches as well

In my previous house I installed these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011WLTCHW/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=A2DX7ZINFBHZUN

They're actually meant as baby/kid proofing covers but I installed them along with the insulation gaskets and it worked great!

Well in this picture, it is a wiremold round box with a round blank coverplate on it.

With the previous photo I was pretty sure I was looking at a blanking cover, now I'm certain.

I work in a facility where similar installations occur in every location where there used to be an emergency light, before a LED retrofit integrated emergency lighting into a subset of the standard luminaires. I've also seen it when alarm systems have been upgraded, that all of the previous sounder/beacon locations that were superceded by the new system get blank covers.

Wouldn't a locking outlet cover fix the issue?

https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-MX3200-Vertical-Weatherproof-Receptacle/dp/B001DKIH10

That's a great point! I will have to get something like this now that you mention it!

It doesn't help with fact that you have two fixtures to plug in, but just in case it helps (because I had to hunt these down while doing what I think is the the exact same conversion) there exist 4-inch round receptacles, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5059-15-Amp-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B000U3I1Z8

Only provides you with one receptacle, but was definitely the easy way out in my case where the existing fixture had a round box behind it.

EDIT: Just noticed that Amazon suggested a duplex version of the same:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5042-Duplex-Receptacle-4-Inch/dp/B000HEHCAU/

Install one of these bad boys on the outlet and get a padlock. Problem solved:D

Hey, if that's all you do at first then that's 2 things off your list if you end up doing more later!

Some things to consider:

• mount heavy/tall furniture to the wall with furniture straps to prevent tip-overs onto babies who like to use furniture to pull up on or play with. This includes the tv if its on a stand.
  
  
• blind cord wraps, if you have corded window blinds
  
  
• appliance locks for the kitchen, if you want. We have covers on the oven knobs, a lock on the oven so he can't open it while it's on, a lock on the freezer so he can't open it and thaw out all the food, and a lock on the dishwasher so he doesn't play with the knives in there. We did not lock the refrigerator, it swings closed pretty well so he can't really leave that one open. You may want to just do some or all of these, depending on your kitchen layout or your personal beliefs on baby proofing
  
  
• kitchen cabinet and drawer locks, at least for the knife drawer. We did all cupboard with anything breakable. We have 1 cupboard full of plastic things for him to investigate that's unlocked.
  
  
• cupboard lock for wherever you keep cleaning supplies and medications
  
  We went a bit beyond this stuff and also locked up the trash can in a locking cabinet (he kept trying to dig into it, gross), put locks on the toilet (super inconvenient but he liked to open it and look in. I was afraid toys, keys, cell phone, etc would end up in there eventually), and padded furniture corners in his playroom. We also put outlet covers on electrical outlets that have things plugged into them (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0175LPJGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6SynzbH7HPYFD ).
  
  Those are just some ideas to pick and choose from. Don't let it overwhelm you, not all kids get into everything. But if you find yourself with some spare time on your hands before baby is born, it never hurts to be prepared.

My indoor one is actually in a water resistant outside plug....

https://www.amazon.com/Sealproof-Weatherproof-Electrical-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B0756MFGP5/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0756MFGP5&pd_rd_r=M9NT5B2YEW8C0P4BWJ97&pd_rd_w=bGfeC&pd_rd_wg=HZVtm&psc=1&refRID=M9NT5B2YEW8C0P4BWJ97

and locked up. It's still very loud even covered.

It's probably a coverplate for a ceiling box. Here is a similar one on Amazon.

Either there used to be a fixture there or there is a box fitted for future upgrades.

Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MtqPl51JqD4sa

I think they're really all the same. If you have an outlet or two that you regularly plug and unplug things from and don't want to worry about remembering to replace the little covers every time they also make self-closing outlet covers like these.

I have two Hunter Signal fans and love them. I have the remote "cradles" next to the swithces and use these covers over the switches so nobody turns them off.Switch covers

Just block them off.

decora

toggle

This for the outlet. Single gang locking cover. For the camera, no clue!

I wanted to put a picture but we have these, i think we had to take the outlet plate off to get the baseplate part on.... but it works for electric plugs. Might work for phone jacks?. https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=asc_df_B000HKVG9C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198090943423&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15751411912487128278&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032808&hvtargid=pla-384313761796&psc=1

I can't fit a Wyze Plug into my outside outlets, but I have another brand that's smaller and it fits entirely inside an "in-use" outlet cover that seals shut (similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU532B0).

It's been outside over 2 years with no issues.

For anyone that needs em too - here it is.

something like this ?

I found a lot of options by searching for “weatherproof outlet cover”

Or you can get something better

I'm guessing you're not in the US based on the wire color coding, so any references to the NEC would not apply to you. You should verify everything you're doing with your local electrical code.

>I would assume that pigtailing the yellow wire is still the best option?

Yes, cut the yellow wire in the middle and connect your now pair of yellow wires with the red wire using a properly sized wire nut. You would then put a rocker and blank switch plate over your now single switch.

>There's no switch cover out there that i can replace this switch with, that simply keeps the circuit "always on" is there?

You could do something like this to lock it in the on position if you don't want to mess with the wiring anymore.

You can get collapsable covers that satisfy the "in use" code requirement. E.g. this one.

key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.

I use these. Blocked but still usable.

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA

Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-14

Not super pretty, but super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEHCAU/ref=asc_df_B000HEHCAU5148160/

You have at least 4 options

• Permanently wire the bulbs - I agree with /u/racingsnake91 that this isn't a great idea
  
• Leave the switch permanently in the on position by requesting no one touch it (won't work in my house as I have young children)
  
• Use a light switch guard like this one
  
• Mount the Philips Tap Switch or Philips Dimmer over the light switch (see below for more details)
  
  I have opted for option 4 though I am using option 3 as an interim solution. I am using Sketchup to design a holder that will act as a guard to the light switch that the dimmer can attach to and my friend is going to use his 3D printer to print it. I got the idea from one of my ceiling fan/lights. The remote control screws in over the light switch so it doesn't get accidentally turned off. I opted to go for Philips Dimmers rather than the tap switch because in some cases I have double light switches and only 1 is being replaced by a dimmer switch (the tap switch is too large). If this is something you are interested, let me know and as soon as I have a polished product I will take some photos and provide the STL file (what the 3D printer needs to make the holder). If you don't have access to a 3D printer, I can give you my friend's contact information.

Wow lol, on a GFCI outlet too.

Shoulda gone with the pro solution. Something like this + padlock https://www.amazon.com/Sealproof-Weatherproof-Receptacle-Protector-Configurations/dp/B0756MFGP5/

I think this kind of thing would work at a condo, where you aren't allowed to actually replace the gang or drill into the brick. IIRC, this is attached by the same screw that holds the outlet in place, then the cover can lock over the whole thing.

They only work with the thinner switches. There appear to be some options for the wider switches on Amazon if you search for "light switch guard". For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_8?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511223225&sr=1-8&keywords=light+switch+guard

I bought a pack of these.

We can still flip the switches if we need to, but it eliminated the problem of accidentally/habitally flipping them. Looks and works better than tape.

Best bet is to get an electrician to install an outlet outside. They have outlet covers specifically for this purpose.

Yes, if you have an upstream box, in a place where you feel ok putting the controlling switch, then putting a smart switch in there is by far the best solution. It leaves you with a standard outlet, both sides are controlled, and the switch is physically removed from the location. You could even put a cover on it with a small lock if necessary.

I'm not sure of the situation you're dealing with, but if this was some sort of landlord situation where you're controlling something like the washer/dryer in off hours, just be prepared for them to run an extension cable. You might get a similar outlet cover that locks the plugs in there.

Bell box is a brand of these

In use cover that is lockable orientation matters. This is a vertical cover for vertical box, get a horizontal cover for horizontal box.

Use a GFCI outlet

What you proposed won't work the Wi-Fi signal will not escape the metal box. If you can't remove the box in question consider getting a close nipple and join the two boxes and run the wires in between.

Would something like this work:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5059-15-Amp-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B000U3I1Z8?tag=viglink20246-20

That seems to already have the outlet. If what I linked will work, do you know if I would need anything else or if the wires all connect to the back of it and I just screw it on?

I bought this to cover the original switch but still can get at it just in case and have a Phillips switch for the Hue lights next to it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA

There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.

I use this. elago Nest Hello Case [Black] -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ14B5Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was just pondering a way to achieve this a few days ago. I haven’t tried it yet but I’ve settled on using the Hue sensor mounted inside something along the lines of
this for weather proofing.

I used these https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482935004&sr=8-1&keywords=rocker+switch+cover

Then I just used some 3M double sided tape and it looks fine. This way I can still have access to the light switch if I need to.

You could definitely put it in a shelf. Get some cord staples to keep her from pulling it down off the shelf. As for the outlet, get a cover like this one. We use it in our son's room.

You want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C

They come in several styles but that's the one we got. Just be sure to check if you have the old style single screw in the middle outlet plates or the newer "decora" style outlets with two screws above and below.

My husband installed the outdoor box outlets on all the accessible ones that are inside. Then, if she somehow opened them we put the outlet plugs in. (she never did get in them but we did redirect if she ever got interested.. She's two now and never bothers them.)

Like these ::: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JEPX4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467742128&sr=1-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=outdoor+power+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=41JDtKQ1OVL&ref=plSrch

Sorry for the long link, I don't know how to do links on mobile.

I recommend something like this

I've had a similar problem with a poorly placed switch. I already had a bunch of Hue lights, so I got a Hue Smart Dimmer Switch (Amazon Link) and stuck it to the wall where I wanted the switch and covered the old switch with a tamper-proof cover (Amazon Link).

​

No electrical work required.

Dual Option Wall Switch Guards (3 Pack) Clear Rocker Style

We have those outlet covers and love them. We also changed some outlets to the tamper resistant ones. I believe they come in that style you have and an electrician could probably do it in no time if you can't do it yourself. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-10-Pack-M22-T5320-WMP/100684043.
We still have some of the plastic plug ins in our double outlets and we have these covers for things that need to remain plugged in like lamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1520390976&sr=8-9&keywords=outlet+covers&dpPl=1&dpID=41N1fEBvopL&ref=plSrch
I still need a better power strip cover solution because I don't like the ones I've seen online.

How about this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JEPX4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503295268&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=weatherproof+outlet+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41JDtKQ1OVL&ref=plSrch

Put one of these on it .

outlet cover

The cord itself will be fine; it's the ends that need protection. "Waterproof outlet cover" and "extension cord waterproof connector".

Something like this where the cord plugs into the wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-MM420C-Single-Non-Metallic-Weatherproof/dp/B00JU532B0

and something like this for plugging the camera into the cord:

https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-CC-2-Connect-Water-Tight/dp/B002MHFXS8

There are a bunch of different types.

These were good for most outlets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WEKS6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EAr6BbW32C831

These were good for outlets that needed things to stay plugged in, but Lowe's hardware had them for half the price.
Safety 1st Outlet Cover with Cord Shortener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5Cr6BbRJ69PA1

Not exactly what you’re looking for but a safer solution is something like this.

Leviton 5059 15-Amp, 125 Volt, 3-Wire Round Type Single Receptacle On 4-Inch Cover, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U3I1Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SUb4CbJKYMKRX

You won’t have to alter the electric box at all, and you can easily restore the original light.

Clever use of longer mounting screws, washers and nuts and you can fashion a cover to hide the power supply.

Here is something to cover up the outlet completely and it will also line up with the panduit and you will see zero cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496525405&sr=8-6&keywords=outlet%2Bsafety%2Bcovers&th=1

Edit: If you scroll down to reviews and look at customer images, you can see one where it is closed and has the black cable coming straight down. And another image showing the underside where the hole is and how it can line up perfectly with the panduit.

Can something like this be used with the standard adapter?:
https://www.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y

Several options on amazon.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ED2O07K/ref=twister_B00GDBLVJE

I've been looking at ceiling fan options too. All of my fans are on multi switch circuits. One is two switch, another is three switch. Plus mine are all wired with the fan and light tied together. With both of those in mind I may never be able to use smart switches to control the light and fan separate.

I think I may have settled on child locks on the switches to keep them on like this:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q4nCzbZTRZC5D

With this fan:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/206648825

The fan has everything I want, and looks nice. Part of my motivation is one of my fans is really noisy, and both scream 90's. When I look at the cost of 5 smart switches, and two new fans, and maybe smart bulbs, the cost is pretty close, and the gardinier fans simplify everything a lot more.

Same line of reasoning for the garage door opener. My opener is 15 years old and last winter I thought it was dead. So I don't know if I should get a Zwave controller for $100, if I may replace the opener soon, weighed against the cost of an opener with MyQ built in. I'm torn.

I bet that outage cost a lot more than $7.

There are a number of technologies that could help in this.
IP enabled [cameras] (https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA76H32M1663)
could let her watch you and you'd never know if she was watching.
A [VPN] (https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-vpn-server/)
connection to your network with a [VNC] (https://www.realvnc.com/download/vnc/)
connection (team viewer's big brother) could give her full control short of you disconnecting the Internet/power, which could be limited by [other] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKIH10)
[physical] (https://www.amazon.com/NTW-net-Lock-insert-Butterfly-finger-release/dp/B00QKH7JI8)
means.
If your computer is capable of [wake-on-LAN] (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN)
she could even power it up when it is turned to a low power use state.
All of these things present knowledge/monetary challenges and ITSec risks so read up before throwing down.

> What's the purpose of the white plastic bar?

It's the bracket that holds on the plastic trim cover like this.

Since you're installing a fan just take it out.

For my daughter's room, we used outlet covers that slide shut on their own. Plugs can become choking hazards if you take one out and leave it in her reach. We still use the plugs if we go traveling or for grandma's house, but for rooms where she's in all the time we have the sliding covers.

We also used an LED night light. If she ever manages to get it out of the wall there's no bulb to break, and the sliding outlet will snap shut - no exposed outlet left behind.

When she first lost the crib she went on a bit of a crazy spree of the room. We had to remove everything she could climb on or play with in order to encourage her to nap. We even had to unscrew the bulbs in the overhead light fixture because she learned how to jump up and turn on the light (but couldn't turn it back off).

The rule now is one stuffed animal in the room at a time. Everything else - books, toys, changing equipment - comes out of the room when we leave for nap or nighttime. We may be easing up on that rule soon - we think she's starting to give up the nap and will be starting to implement "quiet time" (i.e. just don't bother us for an hour, we don't care if you actually sleep or not).

I just want to point out that officially speaking they do not recommend things like bumpers in a bed until a year due to SIDS and suffocation hazards. You might be fine, but officially it's still a no-no for a few more months.

Also, if you have any heavy furniture on the room, make sure it's bolted to the wall or pull on it yourself and make sure it won't tip. If it has drawers, open them all up and pull - you'd be surprised how easily a squat sturdy-seeming dresser can tip when all of the drawers are opened. I was surprised at mine. Get some locks for those drawers. Your kid will attempt to open up the drawers and he will attempt to climb on furniture.

Some food for thought - people tend to think "oh, I'll hear it if she pulls that shelf down," but the scary truth is that if a child pulls down a big piece of furniture a lot of the time the child's body will cushion the fall and you will not hear it. God forbid your child ever does that in the middle of the night while the house is sleeping.

May I suggest an outlet cover like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C ? It's harder for little fingers to open because you have to press in on both sides at once. The little plastic plugs for outlets are surprisingly easy for little fingers to pull out.

Watch out for climbing gates and other things now too. It feels like once they get that climbing bug it doesn't stop... (My youngest, almost 3, can climb over our 3ft tall baby gates just using his upper body strength. I've seen him climb up the couch from the back. He's just "freakishly" strong compared to his brothers though.)

I suspect you'd have been better off with one of those outdoor socket covers that cost less than $10.

https://www.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y

Get one of these and put a padlock on it.

Most likely a ceiling cover.

Something like this.


They are usually used to cover ceiling holes from which you hang ceiling fans/lamps/chandeliers (any ceiling-mounted equipment that requires an electric connection).

Considering the number and symmetry that you described, they likely replaced sets of recessed lighting in the living room and fans in the other rooms.

[Rocker Switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/)

I use these around the house for various things, including the playroom TV.


Like mentioned, they can just unplugged and replugged to reset them, or by using the power button, but you can child-proof it with these.

If you are worried about the outlet being exposed, you can get these covers and the outlet will be safe if he pulls the nightlight out. As far as the nightlight's safety, I have no idea :)

Thanks everyone for the responses..... This was my solution:
Step 1:

http://www.amazon.ca/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454016617&sr=8-1&keywords=switch+guards

Looks like these guards are perfect; they'll be here next week and will frustrate my lovely bride to no end for at least a week BUT

Step 2:

Hue Dimmer. What a great product; easy to use, easy to set up and no playing around with electronics needed. I've set up one at the base of the stairs to just turn all lights on at full "soft white" brightness and one at the top of our stairs to do the same so she can turn everything off without walking down when the kids inevitably leave them all on.

Step 3:

iPhone 6 widgets with 10 scenes.


This appears to be what is going to work. Thanks everyone for the help.

When I lived in a wet climate, I put these outlet covers on to ensure the plug stayed dry. Never had a problem with them.

Please don't do this.

This can potentially do 2 things:

A) Eliminate a redundant means of disconnecting the light fixture (that isn't the main breaker of your house)

B) Confuse someone that doesn't have knowledge of the situation

While this may not discretely violate code (breaker counts as a disconnecting means), it would provide confusion to the next person that owns your house.

The purpose of the electrical code is to primarily act as a guideline for proper electrical design / practice, but it is also meant to be used as a cookie cutter set of rules to provide consistency across all electrical installations and avoid confusion.

In your particular suggestion, i can forsee OP forgetting to wire the existing switch back in if he/ she were to move. Then the next homeowner will call an electrician in to ask why the switch isn't working, and the electrician will be confused because he doesn't know if the black wire leaving the box goes to the light fixture or is a jumper to the next switch.

[Please use a switch lockout mechanism] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=psdc_6291359011_t2_B0019KBYE6) or install a smart switch.

I can't promise it would fit the cord end you're using, but have you looked at a lockable weatherproof cover?

Alternately, is the outlet mounted on a wall? You might just get a enclosure and cut a large hole in the back so it can be placed bolted over the existing outlet. Cut a notch in the bottom just large enough for the cord to exit.

Typically a j-box cover plate that can be placed over a no-longer-used electric light location.