Best internal usb port cards according to redditors
We found 1,759 Reddit comments discussing the best internal usb port cards. We ranked the 171 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,759 Reddit comments discussing the best internal usb port cards. We ranked the 171 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Anker Uspeed USB 3.0 PCI-E Express Card with 4 USB 3.0 Ports and 5V 4-Pin Power Connector for Desktops [VL805 Chipset]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/417WgoWHEaL.jpg)
UPDATE:
So after a few hours of testing, the next issue I started to run into was a lot of "poor tracking" issues when connecting to the Inateck.
I started to remove factor by factor trying different cables, different balances (2 sensors on the intateck, 1 and rift on mobo) and so on... still kept getting "poor tracking" after a few minutes. At one point, it got really bad and every single sensor and rift said poor tracking, I was completely lost.
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Finally I started to strip my testing even more and started to remove any extension cables (CableMatters 3.0) just to be sure those weren't causing issues. I also started to just run 1 sensor on the Inateck and things started to stabilize a bit. Then I added 2... I would get "poor tracking" but on rare occasions. This is still unacceptable.
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Ultimately, after swapping cables and everything here and there, I finally stabilized by having 2 sensors on the Inateck as 3.0, The rift on my mobo as 3.0 and the last sensor as 2.0. I really think the Inateck isn't capable of more than 1 solid sensor - 2 sensors and it starts to dip here and there. My thoughts on why Oculus recommends this card AND why they now sell the additional sensors with a 2.0 extension cable is to keep cost down and have you running at least at the minimum specs to get up and running.
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My thoughts after this testing is that if you want to run VR at it's full potential, we need to spend the extra money and get proper USB 3.0 cards with at least 4 individual usb controllers like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549365944&sr=8-3&keywords=startech.com+4+port+pci+express+pcie+superspeed+usb+3.0
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I think I may have to just return the Inatek and cough up the difference to get this proper card.
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Will do further testing tomorrow and will update you guys if I render any new results.
UPDATE 2:
So after about a week or so of testing with the inateck, yes what I stated in the original post is true, sensors on 3.0 use less CPU power but that card simply doesn't seem strong enough for even 2 sensors. I would keep getting poor tracking warnings. I did see a huge improvement on stability when a user suggested putting one sensor in port 1 and the other on port 4. For some reason this worked well. Something about them being further apart that it made the USB traffic not as choked up, but none the less, I'd still occasionally get the poor tracking warnings.
Ultimately after troubleshooting some more and more, the only way to get no warnings was to go back to all sensors on 2.0; but this also meant going back to 17-20% CPU usage...
Because of this, I'm now returning the card and getting the 4 bus StarTech. Its $80 and has individual buses for each port. I will report back when I've tested with this.
For those of you looking to get the StarTech, keep in mind Amazon has different versions for different prices that look identical. Make sure you select the 4 bus version ($80). There is a cheaper 2 bus version that some have said is "enough", but at this point, why bother getting just enough. This new USB adapter will be useful on future PC builds too so it's an investment anyway.
Sure!
This is all in a Fractal Design - Define R6 USB-C case. I replaced all but one fan with Noctua PWM fans so I could fully take advantage of the fan controller that comes with the case and ultimately have a very quiet box.
This was originally going to be just a NAS box using more "server-y" components (ASRack X470D4U mobo, ECC memory) but I ended up not liking the mother board so I just threw my desktop internals in here for the time being.
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7
CPU: Intel i7 8700k
Memory: 64GB DDR4 2667MHz
In the PCI slots I have a Intel Dual Gigabyte NIC (for SR-IOV capabilities), Qnap Quad M.2 Card, refurbished LSI 9211-8i SAS card, 4 port USB 3.0 Controller (so I can hook up my Mac VM to my KVM switch box), and a Radeon RX 560 so I can pass it through to my Mac VM.
Because this is r/datahoarder, here are my drives...
I am using (2) 1TB NVMe drives for my OS drive. I am using md raid for the first two partitions
/bootand/boot/efi. The third partitions are in a btrfs mirror and contain sub volumes for/and/homeI am using another (2) 1TB NVMe drives in a zfs mirror for
zpool-virtwhich has datasets for docker and libvirt so they are on speedy drives.I have (2) 1TB HDD that were my old pool for containers, but I don't use them anymore. Everything has been migrated to
zpool-virtso these will go away as I expand my 10TB vdevs.I have (4) 4TB drives in pair of mirrors setup as
zpool0which I use as my main storage for docker volumes, plex, time machine backups, network storage, etc.Now that I have put in (4) 10TB drives this will become my main pool and I'll migrate things over once I put in a fifth 10TB drive later this month. I haven't decided if my ultimate goal is to have pool of (2) 5-drive raidz1 vdevs, or a single pool of 10-drives in raidz2. My current thinking is single raidz2 and then hope that raidz expansion comes soon enough that I am able to decommission my 4TB drives and replace them with 10TB ones.
I also have a 1TB NVMe that I used to passthrough to my Mac VM but don't really need to anymore now that I have my VM images on SSDs. Since I have one last remaining open NVMe slot I am planning to buy another 1TB NVMe and make them into a mirror and add them to
zpool-virt. But I was also toying with the idea of putting in an Octane drive into the open slot so I could have a fast SLOG. So who really knows.I'm really sorry about that. Poor tracking can happen for a few reasons: exceeding bandwidth on your system, incompatible USB ports, of even a non-functional sensor, among other things. Since you seem to have tried the sensors by themselves, I would guess that you are either exceeding the bandwidth, or that your USB 2.0 ports are somehow incompatible. Your best bet is to purchase this add-on card (must be this exact one): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM I'd also continue to speak with us on the support ticket in case there is some software component that can be resolved, such as updating USB drivers or disabling a conflicting application. Hope that helps.
I wrote this for another thread on the same subject a while back. The main bottleneck/expense is moving from single processor to dual processor. If I had it to do over (and hadn't come across a 2009 model at a bargain price) I'd get the 2010 chassis. The 2009 model uses a very odd lidless processor design which is unique to that year and complicates upgrading. The 2010's also have faster RAM which means you won't have to buy new RAM to upgrade the processor.
Upgrades:-
Advice:-
I dont think its a USB3 issue, I think it an incompatible USB chipset issue. I had nothing but problems at first, USB3 wouldnt work at all, USB2 worked better but still major issues. I then installed the USB3 PCIe card recommended by valve and ALL issues were solved. I have no problems now at all.
edit: this is the card i got http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
More info here, including a working PCI-E card:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/
Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.
Amazon links for your convenience:
Note: technically any of the powered inateck ones should work since they all use Fresco controllers, but note that the 2 port one only gives you the extra front panel ports if your case supports that. It's safest to get one of the versions with 4 or 5 ports on the back. I can confirm the 5 port+20pin version passes the test for me.
> USB
You weren't using that PCI-E slot anyway ;)
While technically correct for the most part, this comment seems to be exaggerating things a bit. You only need three USB ports for Rift out of the box, a fourth port only if you buy a third optional sensor. You don't need a usb2.0 at all, you can run headset and two sensors on usb 3.0 fine and if you buy a forth sensor it will automatically downgrade it to a usb2.0 with the included extension cable it comes with.A $20 pci usb card can be purchased if there are any USB issues at all. Stating HDMI"1.3" as if it would be any different than any HDMI that would ship on a compatible graphics card is also a bit intimidating to those who would think '1.3' is something different. If your newer card happens to only have display-port (rare), or you are already using HDMI for your monitor and you don't have a second HDMI out, you can use an adapter to go displayport to hdmi to either the monitor or Rift.
For most people its only the $160+ graphics card that is the main upgrade needed.
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fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.
crappy chipsets:
Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI
Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller
VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)
ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller
ASMedia XHCI Controller
Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller
proposed fix:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW
Tons of threads like this, so take some time to browse this sub. Also a lot of good info in this sub's wiki In either case here's my quick and dirty off the top of my head in no particular order/level of detail, also some things are just my subjective opinion:
Everyone's experience varies. If its smooth sailing for you then awesome. If you run into problems, don't stress and take the time to search on this sub for answers. VR is amazing, hope you enjoy it.
He's making it sound a lot more complicated than it really is.
The PCI-E slot on a laptop is an Mini-PCIE form factor which is normally used for the wireless card in a laptop. He took out his wireless card and put a Mini-PCIe to PCI-E 1x adapter such as this here and hooked it up to the video card. You then need an extra PSU on the side to power the video card which you hook up the molex to the 4 pin included with the adapter. Some PSUs will include these on the accessories cable as they were originally used to power floppy disk drives, the form factor is the same. After you have the PCI-E adapter and the video card hooked up to power, you simply use a PSU Jumper to power on the video card, power on the laptop, install drivers for the video card, and hook it up to a display. Then, you have to use ethernet for internet, but that's about it.
Voila, you now have an external GPU for your laptop. It will only run at 1x PCIE Speed, but it should still perform better than anything you have onboard unless you have one of those crazy laptops with a $400+ card stuffed into it on a custom PCB.
Both of those cards have only a single USB controller. If you have no USB3 ports, you need a card with more controllers to handle the bandwidth of the Rift + sensors. This card is a little more expensive, but each USB3 port has its own controller, giving you 4 times the bandwidth.
You could always buy a PCIe card for the headers
Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.
You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OVPxDbTW1ZJ2E
Rift CV1 > OG Vive in:
Angular resolution - ~20% higher
Optical clarity (Vive only clear when looking straight forward; Rift clear almost edge-to-edge)
Ergonomics (improved with $100 Deluxe Audio Strap; Vive still almost twice as front-heavy)
Audio (fixed by DAS)
Controllers
Software platform (Home, Dash, ASW 2.0 - all more feature rich & polished than SteamVR-equivalents)
Game support (Oculus natively, SteamVR supported, SteamVR games run like native Oculus with OpenComposite; Vive has SteamVR natively, can access Oculus games via ReVive)
Performance (Vive renders at 3024x1680 @ 90Hz; Rift at 2688x1600@90 - 18% heavier GPU load per frame on a Vive)
A Vive is not an upgrade from a CV1. It's the complete opposite. It has a bit larger FOV (110x113 degrees; Rift 94x93) & an easier room scale setup (2 base stations need to be securely mounted to sturdy surface capable of absorbing vibrations, require 2 power outlets; for roomscale Rift needs 3 sensors @ 2x USB 3.0, 1x USB 2.0 + headset's USB 3.0; USB clusterfuck solvable by $23 PCIe USB expansion card (UK, Canada, Germany, France) - it loses in just about everything else.
That $200 Vive + $100 DAS is five times more expensive than the $60 Rift, 2,5x more expensive if you add a $60 sensor (which you can get here). If you already have the CV1, switching would be lunacy.
It was facetiousness. You can find an HDMI cable for under $2. I was trying to say that Sony was cutting ridiculous corners. Here is a $2 4-port USB 2.0 card.
Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:
The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.
The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here: https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/t39.2365-6/15397552_232732683816172_4121045365602385920_n.pdf
The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.
To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75ZytcYANTA
The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.
Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5hbxxg/anyone_having_controller_warpingtracking_loss/db06gvm/
It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:
For Sensors:
1x Additional Sensor: https://www3.oculus.com/en-us/rift/
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension: http://a.co/1uRWG3A
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount: http://a.co/5ZQxIal
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card: http://a.co/gFqRg0x
For HMD:
Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/9mBQCrU
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/6Q1kIKd
Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place.
I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.
In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.
The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.
The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.
The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.
The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.
The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.
Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions.
Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK: https://steamcommunity.com/app/250820/discussions/0/305510202679681031/
Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.
I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.
Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos.
Well, if you have a free PCI-E port on your motherboard an Inateck 3.0 USB card will do the trick.
Here is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I'd recommend buying a USB 3.0 expansion card if your motherboard has a spot for it. This one is suggested by Oculus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using a hub serves almost no purpose when it comes to VR because all of the power is still eventually being funneled through one usb port on your computer. That being said, it's possible the Rift and sensors will work with your current set up, but tracking might be a bit spotty using that many 2.0 ports for the sensors.
EDIT: I misread your post a bit. If you're only using 2 sensors and the headset, you should be fine with your set up. I'd recommend plugging the headset into a 2.0 along with one sensor and the other sensor into 3.0. You might need to play around with that part of it, but I think you'll be alright. I'd still recommend the expansion card though.
You made the same mistake I did. The 7 port card is not as good as the 4 port card. Moar ports is not better.
The 7 port card daisy chains through an additional USB hub causing more chance of issues. Not to mention all 7 ports go through the same host controller.
Read this blog
https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
Then from this screenshot of my computer just then.
http://imgur.com/YQ0WmkZ
Note how the 7 port card goes from
Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Hub -> Sensor
Wheras the 4 port card goes from
Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Sensor
I would always recommend the 4 port one over the 7 port one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
I'd like to see a screenshot of the Startech card like mine just to see how they all connect to the PCI bus if you have the time?
Startek will always be the better card but at a cost. Next in terms of quality for a single 4 port Inatek card (two if you really think you need them). I would put the 7 port card at the bottom of the list.
Infact I would not even be recommending it. Great work for putting together the video and it is very informative however you made the same mistake I did and went for moar ports. You should have chosen the 4 port card.
Your motherboard's USB chipset doesn't support the PS3 Round 1 TE. If you have room in your PC to add PCI expansion cards, pick up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG
Its got the correct chipset and should get your PC to recognize the stick as a generic controller.
This'll fix that for $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
Yeah, it can be a little overwhelming to figure out where to start. Some good answers already in this thread. The good news is it's actually a lot more straight-forward than it appears. The main source of confusion/apparent complexity comes from the fact that right now both the prior gen and new gen models are still on the market, making it appear that there are a ton of headsets. In reality, there are only four that matter:
Oculus Quest: VR for people that don't have or don't want to buy a decent gaming PC. Cordless, entirely self-contained, no PC needed, no external sensors needed, but limited by the mobile hardware specs. MSRP: $399 USD
Oculus Rift S: really the go-to for a first-time VR headset. Great display that solves most of the clarity issues of older headsets, great controllers, uses inside-out tracking like the Quest (i.e. no external sensors to setup), and pretty reasonable PC hardware spec requirements to run it. So quick and easy to setup that once I finished downloading the software installer, I was up and playing VR in only about 10 minutes. The relatively tiny sound is the only real commonplace complaint, but it does have a headphone jack on the headset. $399 USD
The Valve Index: currently the super high-end of VR gaming. Higher resolution display than the Rift S, higher refresh rate, fancy finger-tracking controllers. Also getting some flack for some quality control issues on its thumbsticks. The only one of the new gen VR headsets to still require external sensors and a base station, which are pretty big negatives for VR newbies since that complicates setup and calibration. Due to the higher specs, it also needs a super high-end PC to really get the most out of it. $999 USD for the starter kit, which does include everything you need to get started, although many users recommend purchasing a third lighthouse sensor (the kit comes with two).
The HTC Cosmos: HTC's replacement for the Vive. Not out yet, so exact specs, pricing, and release date are still unknown. However, it has been confirmed that it will use inside-out tracking (so no external sensors to mess with), and cost less than $1000. The latest unofficial rumors are that it is expected to launch this September, and it's expected to have both specs and pricing somewhere between the Rift S and the Index. Worth keeping an eye on.
What not to bother with:
The Vive. Vive was the premium VR headset of its era, so it's not that there is anything wrong with it per se, it's just outdated and obsolete tech. The display and controllers are just inferior to all of the newer kits.
Windows Mixed Reality (WMR): this one is probably responsible for the VR market looking crowded, since this is a standard defined by MS and not a specific headset, and lots of different manufacturers make or have made WMR headsets. So when you see PC VR headsets from Lenovo, HP, Asus, Acer, Dell, Samsung, etc, they are all just competing WMR headsets. The head strap and display vary in quality, but they all use the same controllers, which are generally considered to be inferior to Vive, Oculus, and Index controllers. The main appeal originally of WMR was to make VR cheaper and easier to get into since WMR has the least expensive headset options, and it was the first to use inside-out tracking so no external sensors. However, its inside-out tracking is done with only two forward-facing cameras, so the tracking is significantly inferior to Quest (four onboard cameras) or Rift S (five onboard cameras) inside-out tracking.
As for specs, your graphics card meets the min, but is at the very low-end of the min. You should be able to run older or less demanding VR games just fine, but may have to run newer or visually more sophisticated VR games at low graphics settings to maintain stable framerate. I would expect Beatsaber to run fine.
One last note: VR headsets, the Rift S in particular, can be pretty picky about your USB 3.0 ports. Specifically, ASMedia USB controllers that many motherboards use tend to cause lots of problems with Oculus headsets. This Inatek add-in USB 3.0 controller has solved lots of people's VR headset issues, is officially suggested by Oculus tech support, and is pretty inexpensive at only around $23. If you decide to pick up a VR headset, might be wise to proactively check your USB 3.0 controller and if it's ASMedia just go ahead and order the Intek USB 3.0 controller along with the headset.
>I've had frequent struggles with USB bandwidth and various cables, and then a sensor flat-out died on me. I'd blamed my USB extenders for so long that I troubleshot the sensor for WEEKS before finally resorting to RMA'ing the sensor, at which point I found the replacement sensor I was sent worked perfectly, and I had just wasted a ton of time troubleshooting a sensor.
Are you plugging all 3 sensors onto your motherboard? You're probably hitting USB bandwidth limits for your USB controller; you probably need a PCIe to USB card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
"If this card is not available to you, use another PCI-E USB 3.0 Expansion Card that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset." Source: support.oculus.com
I got the 4-port one, I believe because the 5-port was out-of-stock. After plugging in the power connector to the card, no problems, so I can vouch for this one.
I would recommend installing a USB expansion card in an open pci slot if possible. I have this one. Have never had any issues.
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r8e1BbR81HJFS
As Oculus Support pointed out, it might be a bandwidth issue trying to run all 3 sensors from your motherboard.
Pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM and you'll be able to plug in 2 sensors + headset into it, then have the third sensor connected to one of the Motherboard USB ports. General rule of thumb is no more than 2 sensors per USB controller as they require a ton of bandwidth.
If you dont mind spending a little more, this card has 4 USB controllers, 1 for each port allowing you to plug in 3x sensors + Headset or 4x sensors https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Power/dp/B00HJZEA2S
2 best options:
No, you need 1x USB 3.0 port for the headset and 3x USB 2.0 or above ports for the 3 sensors.
You can add 4x USB 3.0 ports to your computer for $24 (remember, Rift+Touch+3rdSensor is $142 cheaper than HTC Vive, so even if you need this it's still all $118 cheaper).
A HighPoint 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D.
It works, but I do have to use the
pcie_acs_overridekernel command line option (+ patch) to split the individual controllers into separate IOMMU groups for PCI-e passthrough. Works for me without issue, but ymmv -- in general, overriding PCI-e ACS isn't recommended.I also tried a StarTech 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power but had issues. I can't remember what exactly, but I couldn't get it to work as individual controllers.
Generally when people are discussing USB passthrough they're passing through the controller, so that it is transparent to the guest OS (guest os is responsible for drivers, etc, and has direct hardware access). For hot plug to work the controller would need to be passed through.
Any HUB/Extender that connects to a USB port that you choose to pass through would be passed through in its entirety to a single guest OS.
There is this card that has a separate controller for each port, which means you could have 4 VMs each with their own host controller:
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1
Then you could add a hub to each of the ports if you want more devices connected.
what would solve issues for me would be a roll back to 1.10 why would a patch make me have to rearrange my USB ports? Currently I have a 4 port 4 controller USB card, so rearranging them isn't really going to do anything anyway.
Option A: If you just need connectivity, but not bandwidth, get a hub.
Option B: If you need to connect stuff that also want bandwidth, or don't want/need more stuff on your desk, a PCIe add-on card. This is my next purchase.
This product might help if you don't find a software solution.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZR3E70/ "Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay"
I have one and it works great for dual-booting while keeping the hard drives completely separate.
Since you're looking at an Oculus Rift, see the following knowledge base article: https://support.oculus.com/hc/en-us/articles/214829648-Error-My-computer-does-not-have-the-recommended-USB-ports
A lot of third party USB 3.0 has been flagging as incompatible. However, Oculus has been recommending this Inateck card.
Better link to the 5-port: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/
> If i get a USB 3.0 hub, and plug it into USB 2.0 port on my PC will that work with the oclulus set up?
No. You're still limited by USB 2.0 speeds. You can buy a PCIe expansion card. Oculus recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
Any of the Inateck series should work (I have the 5 port one).
You need a usb hub my man. Not enough power on your mobo usb. Look on amazon. Here it is.
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] (KT4001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t0TPBb3ZBXT13
If you continue to have problems you will need to buy a inateck board.
Inateck on amazon
Get this .. fixed it for me (with an asus mobo)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501513258&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=itek+usb+pcie+card
Valve specifically recommends an inateck card .. see here https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=8566-SDZC-9326 (I assume they all use the same chipset)
960 is min spec.
970 is recommended spec.
CPU should be ok, I used a fx 8350 from last July until a month or so after Ryzen came out. On a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 actually, I think. There were a couple of different versions of that board and they did change the usb3 controller at one point.
Everything looks good, the only potential problem is the sensors not liking the USB3 ports (the headset isn't that picky), but the sensors will work on the USB2 ports and you can get one of the known working USB3 cards if you want to give your sensors more omph. I got the Inateck one way back at the beginning, but there are more known working ones now.
In Oculus's roomscale extra equipment blog post they listed a few more controllers:
Here are a few USB cards we’ve used with reasonable success:
Four Controllers (One Per Port. Requires placement in x4 or x16 PCI-E slot)
• HighPoint RocketU 1144d
• Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
Two Controllers (One Per Two Ports)
• Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
One Controller (One Across Four Ports)
• Inateck Superspeed USB 3.0 Expansion Card
They did put a footnote at the bottom of the blog post, but I think it was more in reference to the hdmi/usb extension cables, which are notoriously finicky.
Footnote is:
**Non-Oculus equipment/service references are not recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements of products or performance. Your results may vary. These are instead options to vary your own customized experiences. Furthermore, incorrect installation or use of any products or items can damage your computer, space, or otherwise impact performance. If you’re not experienced or qualified to do so yourself, please seek assistance.
Unfortunately that isn't the 'Oculus' recommended card, but this is. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522101057&sr=8-6&keywords=inatek
It is very likely that the chipset on that Rosewill isn't 'properly' compatible
Few useful links to get you started.
Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide
List of recommended cable extensions
I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.
I think this is the officially reccomended card
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?colid=1NWO799606SRK&coliid=I4XNUHZFED1DM&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl
I really doubt you'll find an esata reader for under $35. Plus you get an extra 3 USB 3.0 ports if you ever need external storage.
I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).
Some further notes:
You could buy something like this and add usb 3 to your pc though
I doubt the Rift or trackers will need the full bandwidth of USB3. It's probably for the power requirements (USB3 allows 900mA to be drawn through one port).
If it does turn out to be bandwidth-limited, you could always get a card that has an independent USB3 controller for each port:
http://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
I highly doubt that, though... Oculus wouldn't make a product that almost nobody could use because their PCI bus is being saturated. They'd lower the specs to meet what most gaming setups have.
Eh no, you'll need a Usb 3.0 PCI express card.
Just my opinion based on my experience, that's all.
The reason being that your board probably only has a single USB 3.0 controller on it, and that's not enough bandwidth overall, especially if you want to expand to room scale with additional sensors later.
Save yourself a headache, get either:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519902478&sr=8-2&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
OR
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519902611&sr=1-3&keywords=startech+usb+3.0+pcie+expansion+card
though price-wise starting out, the Inateck is fine.
Ditch the hub and do it right, get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501774462&sr=8-1&keywords=4+Port+PCI+Express+%28PCIe%29+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+Card+Adapter
If it were me, for a core system I'd be looking at something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9mvKB
That CPU supports avx2 which should allow good plotting speed. Also has hyperthreading meaning it can read multiple drives at once decreasing overall read speed.
We're going to use an nvme drive to stage plots using turboplotter because the write speed on those Seagate externals is completely terrible if you try plotting them directly.
Finally, with a built-in GPU, you won't need to purchase a discreet unit allowing you to spend a few extra dollars on 16gigs of fast RAM (ryzen specifically needs fast RAM). Now because we won't be using our pcie slots on unnecessary GPU's, you can add two USB host controller cards like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZEA2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519885103&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=startech+usb+pcie as to not overburden the onboard USB controller.
Please note however, the ryzen 5 2400g is a new offering from AMD so please please contact your mobo vendor or ASRock and confirm that you can install this specific apu without requiring a BIOS flash before it'll function (having to do so would mean temporarily installing an older chip).
Hope this helps.
If you get it sorted to where you have 5 minutes of tracking, try the Base station FOV visualizer skin.
You might also consider a PCIe USB card, in the event that (as is commonly reported) the problem is with the communication between the Vive and USB ports.
> tried repositioning the base stations as much as I can in my room.
How are the base stations mounted? How large is your play space? What GPU are you running?
Not available in most stores for same-day pick-up, but beats Amazon's next-week availability.
USB extensions
I also had a bit of confusion when reading through Oculus' guide to room-scaling about what to buy to extend my range, so I though I'd at least share what I bought for three sensors:
Total: $57.03
I bought the two pack of extenders because I've had iffy-luck with HDMI cables from Amazon before, and it was only a few bucks more for another one.
No.
Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.
Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.
I have used this one before: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY
And it works great! You can hook up to 4 fans to it and to control the speed just turn the knob.
Then you will wanna buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO
So the fan controller has a MOLEX adapter for power. The data to usb has a MOLEX to power cable in the box (I’ve had a few and the vantech one that I listed should have an inline power button).
I’ve tried splicing the cables and although that works this is far far easier and effective. I hope you see this before you buy to many other solutions because I personally think this is the easiest.
Good luck and happy growing :)
You only need two USB 3.0 ports for the Rift and sensor:
1x 3.0 USB port for the headset
1x 3.0 USB port for the 3D Positional Tracker
1x 3.0 USB port for Oculus Touch (available at a later date)
1x 2.0 USB port for Xbox wireless controller
The other USB port is for an additional sensor for Oculus Touch so you'll be fine for some time.
This is the PCI-E expansion card Oculus suggests: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/
It's this. It was recommended on this page. I wanted to be absolutely certain I got flawless tracking, so opted for a dedicated USB 3.0 controller for each port, so there wasn't any chance of running into a bandwidth limitation. Also wanted all three of the sensors to be running at USB 3.0, whereas they recommend plugging one of the three into USB 2.0 otherwise (again, due to bandwidth limitations under one controller).
I don't doubt you could have a flawless experience without it, but I wanted to make damn well certain that it would be plug-and-play goodness from the start, given my history of building up expectations and ultimately being disappointed.
EDIT: Forgot to answer your last question. It was actually just the "First Contact" demo thing that you start out with the learn the controls. This the realism and accuracy of the controls, and interacting with the environment in such a natural manner was just amazing. I went and played through it again this evening. The other games I've tried (SuperHot and RoboRecall are really, really good as well, it's just that was the first one, and the environmental interaction is really cool).
Disable power management on all Generic SuperSpeed USB hubs and USB root hub 3.0 hubs in device manager. Check your Power Plan
https://www.hamoperator.com/Fusion/FusionFiles/K9EQ-Fusion-PDF-0023.pdf and the following link will show you how to disable Power Management on USB hubs in device manager.. https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2127202-disable-usb-root-hub-power
If the above doesn't work you may need a usb 3.0 expansion board but power management must be disabled on all USB devices
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also if you are extensions test the unit without using the extensions.
Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.
I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.
This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.
Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A
I have those and find them to be flaky garbage for vive, replaced with
http://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
Which is what Oculus also recommends.
edit- and yes it fixed my issues with the camera etc
Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.
Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1
Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.
> Instead of getting a USB expansion card then, you could just get an internal connector to an open USB header like this
The problem is separate controllers. Most motherboards only have ~2 maybe 3 controllers for USB, and all the ports, including the internal ones, are connected to those controllers.
That's why there's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S which has 4 separate controllers or something.
Maybe. The most common issue with this is that PS3 MadCatz sticks don't work on PCs with nVidia chipsets. You'd have to get some sort of workaround, like installing a PCI USB card like this.
If your PC doesn't use nVidia or you have a 360 stick, there's something else going on.
It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM
You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I
Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.
Known issues
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5j21cd/a_plea_for_oculus_to_put_together_some_resources/
TROUBLESHOOTING
Recommended Equipment
If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.
The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
Have you got a PCI-E slot free? you can get a simple PCI-E to USB 3 card such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
A quote from a similar thread:
>No.
>Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
>It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.
>Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
You can split a x8 or x16 slot into two or four x4 devices if the motherboard supports it, but you still need an appropriate adapter. Something like this.
This will most likely be an issue of not enough controllers. I had the same issue when I first got mine. I dropped the dosh on the quad controller PCI Express card and haven't had any issues since, 3 sensors and the headset plugged into this card, and one extra sensor plugged in to a regular usb port on the machine.
Yeah, I'm using the Startech card with 4 dedicated controllers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/
That USB PCIE card is pretty amazing !
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1
Not cheap but a cool find !
But I can't see myself drop $2000 on a cpu..
Yeah I got it working by using a pcie USB 3.0 add in card. The issue has to do with some early usb 3.0 ports not supplying the appropriate amount of power it is also a known issue on the oculus and Vive, although oddly enough my oculus wasn't affected. The exact card I used is the Rosewill Rc-508 (4 port external usb3.0 pci Express card) this is the Amazon link to the card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LZY20G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Card readers with usb 3.0 use usb3.0 headers. If your board does not have a usb 3.0 header, then you can't use one of them to get usb3.0.
The only way to get usb3.0 on non usb3.0 compatible boards is by using a pcie controller like this.
If you want to use a usb3.0 in the front of the case with no mods, then you'd have to get a pcie usb controller with a usb3.0 header and a 3.5" usb3.0 (be it a card reader or not).
I bought this one, and seems to work just fine for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Warning it needs power cable, which does not come with one.
I've had my Samsung Odyssey for a few months now.
I'm running a GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-UD3H 1150 Mobo, i5 4690k CPU, 16 GB of GSKILL memory, 3 solid state hard drives (1TB, 500GB and 240GB), DVD-Burner and a 1070 EVGA SuperClock video card. I have 3-12" case lights and 6 case fans (1-240mm, 5-120mm). I keep my Astro A50 headphones, my xBox 360 controller and my phone plugged in / charging USB when I VR. Everything plugged in is USB 3.0 and I haven't had any power or tracking issues with 3 sensors. I'm running this ancient 500W OCZ power supply from 2008. I didn't upgrade my power supply during my last couple upgrades because because videos cards and CPUs have been becoming so power efficient. I think the power issues people are experiencing have to do with how the main board handles power and how much it supplies to the USB controller and less to do with the power supply. I assume mine is pretty tough since the 6-USB ports on the back are all 3.0. I'd take a good look at your mother board before buying a new PSU. Does anyone know if the PCI-e x1 USB cards would help? It seems they'd get supplied power separate from the on-board USB controller, I'm not sure how that works though. I bought one to free up USB ports but I haven't installed it yet. It will be interesting to see if my 500W can handle that too.
Eek, I just noticed I'm running pretty much the same mobo as OP. I guess I'd try a powered USB hub, it's hard to believe my 500W is kicking so much ass.
Below are the cables I used, all worked flawless for me, however I bought the $80 5gbps USB hub card
approved 6ft usb extension
approved 6ft 4k HDMI
for sensor extensions
Only certant usb3.0 controllers are supported you may need to invest in the recomended usb3.0 pcie expansion slot prob the one with 4 separate controllers one per slot as it seems none of yours are compatible. I can only remember the inateck one but im sure someone will post the other
I think it may have been this starteck with 4 separate channels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_nG-AzbD2S290K
> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard
That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.
If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.
I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.
What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:
Startech PEXUSB3S44V
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S
Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.
For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE
I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.
To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2
Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there
I fixed a majority of my issues by installing one of these into a PCIE x16 slot, and plugging all three of my sensors, as well as the rift itself, into it. It's a bit pricey, but it did the trick beautifully.
Still get the sensor jump when turning around. I haven't noticed any significant change to my guardian location or my height, but those still may decide to plague me.
Previously everything was plugged into my motherboard (all 3.0) and worked, more or less, perfectly until the patch. Don't know why it worked before when, honestly, I should have been taxing my USB controller, or why the patch broke it, but the above card has made things great.
Use this $80 Startech card if it isn't outside your budget. Most USB cards have a single controller with multiple ports on a hub. This one has a separate controller/bus for each of the four USB ports. That would allow you to assign them to separate VMs. Also, it great for an Oculus Rift, as the sensors can overwhelm a single USB bus.
I can confirm they are available as I have received a batch of 500 two days ago. I've tested on Eligius and Bitminter without issues. I'm reselling them on eBay and Amazon if anyone is interested:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-HAND-1-pack-Bitmain-AntMiner-U2-USB-Bitcoin-ASIC-Miner-2GH-s-Overclockable-/201048049398?pt=US_USB_Flash_Drives&hash=item2ecf65c6f6
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A1LBZI6C51C6OJ
In case anyone's interested - my rig: http://gvty.co/i/BfKFTQ
Raspberry Pi running it to keep electricity costs down.
I'm waiting on 3 of these 2GH usb's:
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/
Yes, PCI-E USB cards do exist. I have an earlier motherboard with USB 3.0 ports; however, none of them worked for my original Vive's camera. It wasn't until I purchased an Inatek card that I was actually able to use it.
I actually used the card as a dedicated connection for the HMD because it didn't seem to play nice with all the other 'stuff' I had plugged in.
Get one of the following PCIE Cards.
If only connecting Rift S
If you plan to connect more than just the Rift S
This is the one I am using (I intentionally got the chord-free version...so you don't have to connect it with your PSU...PCI-express slot is enough).
I bought it on german Amazon...but it is the exact same card (cordfree version with 2x USB 3.0).
After you installed the Card, first test both ports with a cheap USB-stick (just to be sure they are both healthy, and won't give you a short circuit..).
Are you looking for one for a laptop or desktop? If its a desktop you could just get a PCI USB Expansion, but it would be in the back obviously..
If you want something like the picture, you could try this
aaand i found a better price for the card on amazon ($16.50)
For USB, you should find a device using the Renesas uPD720201 chipset as it is known to work with hot reset properly, unlike most others on the market. I use this one and it's flawless.
Otherwise, you should know about the architectural quirks of Threadripper that result in some limitations on how you can assign its resources, which I discussed here.
You have PCI-E slots. Nothing really has PCI slots anymore. This is the one I just ordered for my Odyssey even though my MB does have 3.0 USB ports they don't work with the Odyssey.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you dont need to raplace the motherboard, you could also go for a sata ssd or buy a pci-e card to fit the m.2 ssd
something like this
https://www.amazon.de/Asus-Hyper-M-2-X4-Mainboard/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510742529&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+m.2+pcie
They do work, although they don't change the fact most consumer motherboards are limited to 4 GPUs (due to the BIOS lacking 4G decoding). Also, some people have had trouble getting these to work in a x16 slot,
so you may want to use a M.2 adapter if your ITX board has a M.2 connector.EDIT: You can use this on the AM1I's mini PCIe slot, just break the mini card to make it half height and use the x1 slot (not the USB port).
Look into this mini-pcie to PCIE-1X adapter.
Some cards (such as intel i340 NICs) require the 12V power to be connected, which can complicate things a little, but others only require 3.3v. One thing to watch out for: some companies have a whitelist for what cards can be installed in the mini-pcie slot, you may need to have the bios modified before you can use one of these. Lenovo in particular loves to do this, as does HP.
Okay, so, I put some more thought into this, and you might be able to get away with it.
What you'd need to do is get a motherboard with a socketed in mPCIe wireless card (of which there aren't many, the only AM4 ones I could find were this Gigabyte one or possibly this ASRock one). Then, remove the wireless card, and replace it with a mPCIe->PCI-E 1x riser (something like this or this). Then use that to connect the Intel WiGig adapter. (mPCIe offers both a 1x PCI-E connection and a USB 2.0 connection, to explain the USB ports on both risers)
Although it would be a lot easier to just get an mATX board.
Not from your motherboard, from the power supply, with the included cables/adapters. There are pictures illustrating how to plug it in on the Amazon product page here.
you'll want one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
What you linked to is a USB Hub, which is not recommended. You'll want an actual USB Expansion Card, like this one.
Did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same poblem. Dual vibration works fine in Superhot.
I'm on Rift CV1. Mobo is MSI B450 Tomahawk Max.
Edit:
I finally solved the problem by installing an internal PCIe USB extension card. I went for the Inateck one that Oculus recommends. Don't forget to plug in the SATA power cable or it won't work. Had me scratching my head for a bit.
Other devices don't try to max out a USB port. It's unlikely you plugged anything into your motherboard that is as demanding as a VR headset and Oculus is general seems to try to max out the port to the spec limit.
As Phalex said, you likely need to buy a USB expansion card to use your Rift. I have the one he's talking about and it works great. -- https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ -- this card will guarantee that your headset gets the data bandwidth and power it needs to operate.
If that doesn't work then you probably have a defective headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Get this one
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481911849&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+4+port+usb
It is the recommended card and chipset
From the FAQ:
Frequent sensor disconnection issues or tracking glitches
This is an issue with your motherboard's USB controller not being fully compliant with the USB 3.0 spec.
Try putting 1 of your sensors into a USB 2.0 port instead of having both in USB 3.0.
If that does not solve your issue, you should buy the Inateck KTU3FR-4P PCI-E USB 3.0 card: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France
NOTE: only this exact model, the 4 port version, is verified to work on all systems. Do not buy an alternative.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
___
It's not actually the recommended card perse anymore, the above was for the old Rift but it is the card most people are using. Sadly, the USB controller with the most issues is the Asmedia like the one you ordered.
If you're looking to save as much money and pull it off as "playable" you're probably looking at replacing the fx6300 with an 8350 + hope you have a PCI-E slot for a USB 3.0 card.
If you have the expansion slot you can do this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Black-Vishera-Clock-Turbo/dp/B009O7YUF6 - 75 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ - 20 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zotac-NVIDIA-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B01IA9FEOO - 250 Euros.
I'd still recommend getting out of the AM3 CPUs and upgrading, but understand budget constraints suck!
That is close to what I did, and looks to be the same card. I bought two Inateck cards, each card having one controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ (non-referral link)
Oculus says you can have up to two sensors per controller. I'm using three sensors (two sensors on one Inatech card, the third on the other Inatech card, headset on motherboard USB 3.0 ports). Two of those sensors are on active USB 3.0 extension cables. No issues as of yet. Tracking has been solid, minimal occlusion, and zero USB issues.
Here is a good post from Oculus regarding USB and their hardware: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
No, you need an expansion card. This is the one that's recommended. I purchased it and all my USB problems were solved. A hub is just a splitter. The expansion card will give you a whole new USB bus with the bandwidth you'll need.
Yes it did.
I'm using this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Would something like this suffice Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oOMEDb6Q51NRV
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA is the reccomended usb card for those who does not have the required usb slots (Like me). I ordered one myself a few days ago actually.
Its pretty cheap and has 7 usb3 slots!
Its Oculus themselves who has it as reccomended on their support page btw.
Oops, sorry, posting from my phone at work.
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 5-Port & 2 Rear USB3.0 Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_1xZM9AfOjkUAG
Oculus themselves link to this Amazon page, that has TWO versions. 2 slots and 4 slots; http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA and even say you just need the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset.
EDIT: I'm also perplexed by your argument in this case. If someone has an SLI setup, with no compatible on-board ports, their best option is to buy a new $1000 prebuilt rather than say, upgrade their motherboard for 1/4th - 1/5th the price?
Most / all high-end motherboards today are full PCIe, 3.0 and 2.0. I could fit 3 of these expansion cards into my current SLI setup.
Yep, I use this one for exactly that reason. Works great as long as you use the drivers automatically installed by Windows instead of the ones from the manufacture.
I also have Vive + Skype + Logitech camera (I think the same model as you).
What I found is that it was intermittently causing conflicts. The best fix was to unplug the Logitech when using Vive, and unplug the Vive USB when using the Logitech.
If you don't want to do that, then what I have found to be helpful, but not a perfect fix, is to make sure the two devices are on separate USB host controllers (So if Vive is on your front ports, put the camera on your back ports). This seemed to make things more reliable for me, but I would still have some random issues.
Another item that seemed to make it more reliable to me, though also not a complete fix, was to install an additional USB card to free up USB resources. With USB 3.0, it's easy to run out of USB resources, which will typically result in a momentary message from Windows when a USB device is first plugged in (And you may not see that message in time if you are bent over trying to see your ports). That can cause some USB devices to misbehave. I bought and installed this USB card, and have not had an issue since. (Using a USB hub did NOT fix such issues.)
It isn't the hubs fault, it's mostly the USB consortium lying about the real world practical throughput of their technology for marketing purposes. Tom's HW has a good technical writeup on it, it's from 2012 but most of it still applies: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/usb-3-uas-turbo,3215.html
Ultimately you want no more than 3 drives per USB controller. PCI-e cards like this are ideal, as they contain 4 separate buses (allowing 12 total drives at ~120 MB speeds) https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_1
This one reads 15 8TB drives for me in 36 seconds on Jminer. It has a Molex connection but seems to work pretty well without additional power. 3 powered hubs attached.
4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_u5W5uiQEv2aZ6
Interesting. Is this the card? https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486138195&sr=1-2&keywords=startech+usb+3+pcie
I was having problems with just 2 sensors. I already had 10 devices using my USB controllers. I bought this USB Card and have not had any issues since.
I use this one, and it is recommended as well. Works brilliantly for me. :)
There should be 2 header connectors (2 usb ports for each). If your computer case didn't use them, buy this. If you're willing to give up a pci slot, buy this.
You probably need a USB card that has a VIA chipset, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Components-Other-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG
Here's a thread discussing the problem: https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/madcatz-ps3-te-fightstick-pc-xp-vista-win7-32-64bit-read-1st-post/55292
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-VIA-5U-Port-USB-Card/dp/B000JFJZGG
or
https://www.amazon.com/%EF%BC%882-Pack-Computer-Connectors-Motherboard-Expansion/dp/B06XCVSPZ1/
How do you know how old the machine is? I built a computer a few years ago that still has PS2 ports. But it also had USB.
And if it doesn’t have USB in this day and age then you can surely add a USB expansion card for $10 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JFJZGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524067867&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pci+usb+-“pci-e”
From memory it has something to do with the manufacturer of the USB port.
http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2802679
apparently this works... but you need a PCI slot:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG
http://www.amazon.com/Anker®-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
I'm sure you already are aware, but just in case youre not. http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452491609&sr=8-1&keywords=pcie+usb+3.0
That would be because your motherboard does not support USB 3, or at least only supports it on the I/O panel.
You could use something like this to adapt it to the usb 2.0 9-pin header, if you have one extra (Obviously, the case's ports will only work at usb 2 speeds):
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Female-Motherboard-Adapter-Converter/dp/B009SJCPO8
Or you could get a USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card with an internal header (provided you have a spare PCIe 2.0 or 3.0 slot of any size) like this, and have the advantage of having fully functional USB 3.0 speeds:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE
Note: I have not used either of these products, but they are well rated on amazon, with a good number of reviews, and both are "Fulfilled by Amazon" for easy returns if needed. I am familiar with Anker, from good experiences with many of their other products, so there is that, if you go for an expansion card.
Edit: Do note that the cheaper (by far) 1x PCIe cards will only provide one port's worth of full bandwidth (using all the ports at once will share the bandwidth), though it is rare for most people to use more than that, as it would take an external ssd to saturate, or multiple external disk drives.
No, they are probably USB 3.0 connections only. You can buy an adapter so that the USB 3.0 ports will hook up to the 2.0 headers on the mobo. Obviously they'll be USB 2.0 ports in the front if hooked up that way.
If you wanted USB 3.0, you could find a PCI/PCIe add-on card with internal headers. You could then connect your front USB 3.0 ports to that card directly.
No, that's PCIe x4. Try one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00J4EZE4U&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=089TN21Q0VP4EPQBTRH9
Just a heads up on the listed USB card. Looks to be some form of a NEC Renesas chipset. You may have compatibility issues unless someone has tried this specific card and has let you know it will work. If possible I would consider the one linked below as it has the Fresco usb controller that is supported.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_229185_t2_B01MQ5R7I1
Do you mean this one? Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TJ0lDb8B0TC1Z
> I hope you have more than beliefs.
Yupp. Oculus official FAQ says this lol. https://support.oculus.com/help/oculus/1709142099318823/?ref=hc_fnav
Also worth noting usb 2.0 ports work too for the camera, 3.0 just works better.
>#My computer does not have enough USB 3.0 or 2.0 ports
>If your computer does not have enough available USB 3.0 or USB 2.0 ports, Rift will not work.
>What are my options?
>1. Purchase and install a compatible PCI Express USB 3.0 Expansion Card. Click here to view a compatible card.
If this card is not available to you, use another PCI-E USB 3.0 Expansion Card that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset.
If you need assistance with installing new computer hardware, please reach out to a computer technician or specialist for guidance.
2. Use a different computer that has enough available USB ports and meets all of our recommended specifications.
3. Purchase a new computer certified by Oculus to meet Rift's recommended specifications. To view those options, click here.
I fixed mine by buing Inateck 4 port USB PCI-E card. Do not buy any USB 3 extension card. Not every driver work. I bought SilverStone USB 3 and it didn't work at all. Then bough the inateck ( ebay ships from german (worldwide) Amazon ships from german (not worldwide) )
The driver name needs to be "Fresco Logic" otherwise the extension doesn't work. The inateck card is oculus' recommended device for rift.
One of these will likely solve the issue for you. Assuming it's not a laptop, of course.
A usb controller card, you might have enough ports on your motherboard but if it's all handled by one controller it can't run 3 sensors + headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Not sure about best, but this is the one Oculus recommend, I have been using it with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Edit: see other comments, some say these cards are flaky or even catch fire in one case. It works for me, but some people prefer the Startech cards, they are just more expensive.
Are you sure it's running out of power and not usb bandwidth?
If it's bandwidth you might want to split the devices between usb controllers, and possibly connect some of the cameras to usb 2, instead.
Computers tend to have 2 accessible usb controllers - one on the back and one on the front (which are shared by all of the ports attached to them). Each can only support a maximum amount of bandwidth at once. If the cameras are plugged into usb 2 ports they'll run in low data mode and use significantly less, so you may want to plug one of your cameras into a usb 2 port instead, or perhaps attach the headset or a camera onto a front port to spread the load.
The only other cure for bandwidth issues to buy a usb extender card (Oculus officially recommend this one). Buying a hub won't help, as they're still coming from the same controller on your machine and you still have the same bandwidth limits.
Alternatively, if it is just power, then yeah - you'll need a powered hub.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130841 mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402 processor
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 USB 3.0 PCI-E card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231878 RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088&cm_re=gtx_970-_-14-487-088-_-Product Graphics card
This one is recommended by Oculus :) http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I had this same issue -- picked up an X52 Pro a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't play nice with my intel controllers & Windows 7. I'd read that you could use W10's generic drivers but...as we've also read around these parts, Oculus recommends keeping your drivers up to date.
In the end, I bit the bullet and bought one of these. I already had plenty of Oculus certified USB 3 ports but...now I have more! And this card was recommended by them anyway.
I did eventually end up upgrading to W10 anyway last week. It runs quite well and gave me some time to work out any kinks before my Rift arrives. Some people have had a little trouble using the upgrade option instead of a clean install, but mine went fine.
> Highpoint 1144D
This one? https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS
Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?
$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!
You have USB hardware made by VIA, and that's incompatible. You'll need to buy an addon PCI board with USB-3 ports on it.
Something like this - I would suggest the type that has a power plug, so it doesn't draw power for the USB devices through the PCI slot, since not all motherboards live perfectly up to the standards for power requirements.
The board you choose must also have a chipset that is approved by Oculus. Looking at their homepage, it has to use the "Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset."
Actually, on their support page they link specifically to a card that is approved.
----
One more thing - notice the choice of words. "The Nvidia GTX 960 meets or exceeds our inimum system requirements."
That means that if it was any slower, it couldn't run at all - but it doesn't meet their recommended requirements, and it's nowhere near their optimal requirements.
So it's not going to run optimally, or even like recommended.
Ah I see. Yeah mine are both using usb 3.0.
"Using USB 2.0 ports degrades tracking reliability between the headset and sensor." According to Oculus support anyway.
But here's the link to the card they recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.
There are 2 solutions:
Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.
Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.
Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
You also have two PCI Express slots, so pick up a PCI E splitter for one or both! You may run into issues if the motherboard doesn't have options like Above 4G Decoding or setting lane speed, but 3 should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517574065&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I used these ones and all three worked, although at the moment I only have 3 gpu's on each one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have three of them, all of them shows me 4 separate NVME drives, and honestly it works exactly as if I had those bare nvme drive slots on the motherboard. I couldn't be more happy. I get max speeds, too, have them filled with Samsung 960 EVOs and works like an absolute champ.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z
That is the exact one that I have multiple of.
When I build a new system, which will be soon, I'll likely buy two more!
Here is the same or similar product with reviews on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511110006&sr=8-5&keywords=pcie+multiplier
Alternative option:Amazon has the 1920x (1st gen) for $199.
Motherboards are still pricy, however I picked up an open box x399 ASROCK professional gaming for $177, on eBay.
I always wanted to build a threadripper. FOr the price to performance Im extremely happy.
Just picked up "ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 PCIe 3.0 X4 Expansion Card V2 Supports 4 NVMe M.2 (2242/2260/2280/22110) Up to 128 Gbps for Intel VROC and AMD Ryzen Threadripper NVMe RAID "
Installing (4) SX8100 (1TB) SSD m.2 drives. Im expecting 12 Gps read speeds. I can use 2 of these with all of the PCI lands available on Threadripper. *Over 27GB per second in real world testing. See YouTUbe
Just get this and make your own for way cheaper.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Hyper-Expansion-Supports-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z
Here ya go my man
If it is looking like a problem with the board, I do have an older socket 1155 board, but it inly has 2 pcie slots. Does anyone here have experience with the pcie extender cards? If i could throw one or even two of these on that socket 1155 board, id be back in business.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509989784&sr=8-4&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
The cord for my front of case USB 3.1/C port is too short to reach the header way at the back of my case on a [pcie board] (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/) .
Should I get a pcie extension and mount the card elsewhere? Or get a USB 3.1 header extension? (does such a thing exist?)
I know the USB C spec limits cable length, so I assume that applies here to?
https://smallformfactor.net/news/usb-3-1-motherboard-connector-revealed/
If your motherboard have that silver USB3.1gen2 header then you can use it for the type-C port.
If your motherboard don't have it and really want to use the front type-C port, you can add this card:
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
You can try using PCI to PCIe riser or use one of these PCIe Extenders
The H510i comes with this connector for the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C front panel port, correct?
To connect that to your motherboard you need a header that looks like this.
Your motherboard doesn't have that header. According to the MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi manual (PDF warning) you only have two USB 2.0 headers and two USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers.
USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C headers are actually still very rare on motherboards, so it's kind of annoying that the Hx10i series cases all have one.
To use the front Type-C port on your mobo you'd need one of these:
If you're looking to expand further, you might want to look into a pcie expander
Yes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.TWYDbDHPPC43
This will be your best bet. I have seen cheaper converters, where you can change the gen 2 connection to gen1, but no splitters where you can use both.
There might be 3.1 splitters, then you attach an adapter to the one end of the regular splitter. But at that point you'll be getting pretty close to the price of just getting the pcie card. Also with the pcie card you can actually take advantage of the gen2 speeds, for only about $10 more after getting a bunch of adapters/splitters.
Make sure you get a fresno logic card for the USB if your motherboard doesn't have it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The issue isn't a fundamental 3.0 v 2.0 problem. The problem is the total throughput of a given USB controller. They've noticed that most controllers on the market cannot keep up with 3 sensors and the headset and maintain a low enough latency. Thus they recommend putting one of them on 2.0 so it will end up using a different controller and spread the load. You can certainly try the existing 3.0 port if you've got enough, but there's a chance you'll run into issues. If you do you'll need to grab an PCIE USB card (this one is a good one).
GIGABYTE AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K5 AMD Ryzen AM4 X370 RGB FUSION SMART FAN 5 HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Type-C ATX DDR4 Motherboard
This is the usb card I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately there is really no way to tell if your pc will be able to handle four sensors without trying.
here's a tip i don't see mentioned.
if you're having issues with using the htc vive camera (loss of tracking etc) or being forced to set the camera in 30hz mode for it to even work - i purchased the following card:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
great card, supported chipset, and it's powered.
before i bought this card i was forced to run the vive camera in 30hz, or else it would make my tracking go all screwy. seems 100% solid at 60hz now
I don't know about those sites but this is the card Oculus recommends.
I FIGURED IT OUT!
It was a USB bandwidth problem after all. I ordered a PCI-E USB 3.0 expansion card on Amazon, plugged it into the PC, and now everything works flawlessly. I guess my motherboard just came stock with a crappy USB controller.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just found this lovely device I've got marked to snag
Yes and no. You can get a PCIe USB 3.0 hub, which is about as close to swapping them out. If you had the knowledge (and your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header), you could swap out the ports, but if you have to ask if it's possible, you probably don't have the skills to do so.
Here is an example of one there are many like it
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407361739&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+3+card+pci+express
Before worrying about all that, I would try a pci-e usb 3.0 expansion card if you're having issues with the USB3 built in hardware on your motherboard. IMHO the FX-8300 would be fine still as long as you're doing your encoding via a capture card, or via something like NVENC. I don't know that I would trust it with software encoding while gaming. Benchmark-wise, multi-core on the FX-8300 is pretty similar to an i5 4570, which is still pretty capable for the most part.
Something like this may work as long as you have an empty pci-e slot. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/
Caveats: 1) No real hardware upgrade, which can be both a good and bad thing. 2) System still not technically supported by Elgato.
Other notes: The latest "high-end" AMD CPUs to use DDR3 were the FX series I believe, and I currently use an FX-8300 in my home fileserver, and an i5 4590 in my gaming PC. The latest generation of Intel that used DDR3 was the 5th gen (i3,i5,i7 5xxx), which are fairly rare in desktop form, the latest generation mainstream was the 4th gen, which is really very similar to the 8-core FX series performance-wise, with the i5/i7 of that generation having the slight (in the case of i5) to slightly greater (in the case of i7) edge over the FX 8-cores.
Realistically you're probably looking into new ram/cpu/motherboard if you chose to upgrade to get any reasonable performance boost, everything else would likely be compatible, as expansion cards like graphics cards, other things like power supplies and hard drives and dvd drives, haven't really changed in regards to how they connect to the motherboard.
Front panel hub, rear panel bracket, or expansion cards.
i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)
It looks like it has an open PCIE slot x1 which would allow this card to be used: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
edit: And a pic of the motherboard
When you say
>Oculus Controller
Do you mean the Oculus Touch controllers? Because if so, they don't need USB at all. The breakdown goes:
At launch, it only needs 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 2.0 port. Later this year, you would need another USB 3.0 port for the second camera sensor but then you wouldn't need the USB 2.0 port for the xbox controller since you would be using Touch at that point.
So at most, 3 ports (2x 3.0 & 1x 2.0 / 3x 3.0)
But yes, at the least you would need 3 ports to play, which some people don't have the luxury of having. In that case, there are options for PCI-E expansions, such as this one that offer you plenty of ports for your needs.
You need to get a PCIE card that is small enough for your smaller slots and then just connect the Rift directly to your motherboard.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/
Use this one for your things like keyboard, mouse etc., and directly connect the rift to the mobo. Your motherboard isn't going to work in this configuration according to your manual.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500393928&sr=8-1&keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+7+Ports+PCI-E+to+USB+3.0+Expansion+Card
Could be. Reinstall your GPU drivers and make sure your USB drivers are up to date.
If you do have USB problems you can add a PCIe USB card but that's assuming that there is nothing wrong with the headset.
> a single PCI-E v2 lane only has enough bandwidth for one USB3 port, and a PCI-E v3 lane only has enough for 2
Right. I can only guess the Oculus devices won't all be equally bandwidth hungry. I'd expect the headset to be the biggest hog, and the 3d Positional Tracker and Oculus Touch somewhere behind (uneducated guess).
I plan on buying the card they recommend since I only have 2 USB3 ports on my mobo, and just to be safe dedicate 2 of the 7 ports for Oculus (PCI-E v3 lane), leaving the other ones unused.
Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter, with Internal USB 3.0 20-PIN C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EWhJf1l5AngGk
That's what I'm using and it's working great
You can get PCIe internal USB cards. Some of them have internal headers as well as external ports. Did a quick search and found this option that might work.
Hey, just to let you know, I think this is a problem with the ASUS Z710 series, as I have gone down the same road as you, and someone else mentioned also having the same problems with a Z710 series board. I know it isn't the Vive because it works with no issue on another box in the exact same room and set up. I'm thinking there is something with their USB and talking to the Link Box, and I'm hoping I can find something in the BIOS to tweak. I'd say hold onto it, and if you are really at the end of your rope, buy a different MB. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. EDIT: Also try uninstalling the Asus AI Suite if you have it installed, and Corsair Link...others said this helped, though it did not for me.
EDIT: Looks like a common solution is to get a USB PCIe card which uses a different USB host controller, as the ASMedia USB host controller on the asus Z170 boards is crap, and buggy. This is the recommended one.
I'm actually using a USB 3.0 PCIe card already, have been since i got my WMR. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1
During trouble shooting i'll often try using my mobos 3.0 port which doesn't change anything.
I haven't tried reinstalling the usb drivers and I'm honestley confused by it. Not sure what a controller is, am i reinstalling the driver for my USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card? Or for the HMD?
OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)
I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't work..it's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.
Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.
​
Computer Setup:
My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.
​
I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!
​
edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup
Pending you have an open PCI-E slot, there are USB 3.0 expansion cards that are compatible with the Rift for cheap. I got this one for ~$30.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA
Was having the same issues as many; tracking going wonky, unable to detect USB during setup, etc. Finally fixed mine!
This is the USB 3.0 card I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I plugged the Rift S into the far right port (looking at the back of the PC). I moved my other USB peripherals to other ports.
I don't know if this was pure luck, but I had been fighting this for 2 days straight. I hope this helps someone else.
​
*Edit*: I got a few hours of sleep last night to think about this some more. On the Rift CV1, each sensor was a separate USB connection. But on the Rift S, all 5 sensors (the cameras) are going thru a single USB 3.0 connection, and I'm guessing this requires a fair bit more of bandwidth.
I ended up having to buy a usb 3.0 pcie card as the headset wouldn't work at all on the ASMedia 0.96 drivers.
I got one and had absolutely no luck with it so I returned it. I will admit that I did love the charging IQ ports. This was a couple months ago though. I think I saw somewhere that they had updated their drivers and work now but I'm not 100%. I went with this though: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: for sake of a timeline, my return history on Amazon shows I returned my Anker hub July 29
[the card I got, give it a shot](
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HJZEA2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
)
Asus seems to have skimped a bit on old style type-a USB ports, sadly.
The expansion cards are so expensive you might as well just get the Code if you need the ports. Otherwise you can use something like these to get even more ports in the back.
I don’t think you have the right one, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S requires no modifications or third party drivers (use the windows ones!) and is totally rock solid.
4x sensors all on USB3 and perfect room scale tracking.
Your system is fine. In regards to #2 and #3, just pick up a usb 3.0 pci e card. Either inateck https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or Startech https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=psdc_229185_t3_B00B6ZCNGM. #4, I would suggest you should if play are is beyond 2m by 2m.
I ran VR on a 4690K and a 980 ti. Your computer is basically one step above that. You should be fine. Also, 16gb of RAM is still more than enough for most applications.
The only thing I can think of is your USB controller is being pushed past its limits. I had an MSI z97 motherboard and didn't have issues, but I ran out of USB ports so ended up getting a PCI-e USB card. This is the one I got. I got it because it uses a separate channel for each port preventing USB bandwidth issues. Its pricey but worth it if that is your issue. Which I don't actually know if it is, just a possibly.
You need an additional USB-card.
PEXUSB3S44V will fix all your USB-related issues.
You say you haven't seen anyone solving this issue, well this is how they solved it.
You may also want to remove all overclockings you may have (XMP profiles).
I have read on here somewhere people saying this game is really good, and expensive!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1CRPZNZDYFYKB&coliid=I2N9RQ39UY4CSS&psc=1
I myself bought two Inateck 4 port cards for 25$ each on Amazon back when they were in stock.
So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year
My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)
I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.
what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.
I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo
I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech
Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.
The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/
After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift
Took a damn year to sort all this out.
I hope it helps
Why did you downvote me Heany? The guide you wrote with your amazon link says it's $81 for a total of $200: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
Quit your BS Heany
I did extensive testing couple years ago for Linux. If you use Windows then I don't know. It all depends on the USB extension card chipset.
Probably will work:
Probably do not work:
Zoom in to the images of the cards and see if they have chips which read "PD720.." to get a Renesas one which I recommend. If card has only one chip it will support only one Kinect 2. There exists a few cards like this one which I have tested to support 4 Kinects.
>Compatibility with macOS is a must, since I would like to do a dual macOS and Windows on this machine.
You might want to buy a used Mac. People who use a hackintosh in work are going to have a bad time. It will work fine for years, then need to be completely re-built when you need to work on final projects.
>Hackintosh build
How about a virtual machine hackintosh? Apple won't like this... - Run MacOS on ANY PC
You will need a USB card for the VM, watch the video carefully: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
>want macOS for some general work, and video editing.
A lot of people like the MacOS desktop. It has a lot of good Unix applications. I think you might want to run your video editing on native Windows, unless you are collaborating with MacOS video editors.
>Custom built mechanical keyboard, Logitech G600
Sweet!
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $471.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler | $99.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | *ASRock Z390M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Amazon
Memory | *GeIL EVO POTENZA 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | *Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $118.98 @ Amazon
Storage | *Western Digital Blue 6 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | *ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB CHALLENGER D OC Video Card | $339.99 @ Newegg
Case | *Fractal Design Focus G Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $50.01 @ Walmart
Power Supply | *EVGA GD (2019) 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | *Acer XV272U Pbmiiprzx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $369.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Velocifire TKL78 Wired Standard Keyboard | Purchased For $0.00
Mouse | Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse | Purchased For $0.00
Headphones | *Superlux HD681 Headphones | $34.50 @ Amazon
Custom | Fifine Usb Podcast Condenser Microphone K669 | $27.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $1913.31
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
The 32 GB of main memory are so you can run two 12 GB VMs and still have 8 GB for the hardware OS.
The Intel chip was chosen as the integrated graphics can be used for the Apple virtual machine, while a Windows virtual machine uses the RX5700. Or you can switch what OS gets the stronger graphics card. Then add a USB card, this one from StarTech is a favorite with VR people: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
A good point. If I were buying a PCIe USB card I'd probably get the 4 port Startech.
https://www.amazon.de/STARTECH-COM-SuperSpeed-Express-Schnittstellenkarte-Kan%C3%A4len/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527086391&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=startec+usb
There are cheaper options but the difference isn't that much in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather have the best solution
Independent channels per port so no bandwidth sharing, and supplemental power.
My mobo has 3 independent USB controllers already so it's non issue for me fortunately
Alt USB Card with a dedicated controller per USB port and 20 bucks cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S
The cheap inatech or whatever still does work if you get lucky. Mines been "ok" so far but I'll be swapping to the one I linked if I ever need to expand further.
I have a 4-port PCIe card with 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels specifically because I was previously using the recommended Inatek card and it was an utter nightmare.
Everything but the headset itself is plugged into the card, as I've found that's the best possible configuration. It's still finicky, but much, much better than it was. (I was in BSOD hell /w the Inatek card) I'm convinced that there is no truly "perfect and stable" way to set up 3+ sensors, (from the perspective of the Oculus setup tool, that is) though, as I have tried many configurations and they're all a little wacky during setup even though they work well during gameplay.
It doesn't seem to be an issue with USB, it's just that the three cameras have trouble seeing my Touch controller for the entire duration of the trigger-hold simultaneously. It's extremely annoying, but it seems pretty clear that it's just a flaw in the setup process because the whole system works like a dream once I get it configured.
I'm open to suggestions if it means not having to hold my touch controller behind my head like an dumbass 20 times in a row every time I want to adjust my sensor positions though.
You can get external hubs or internal PCIe adapters depending on what you need.
If you just need ports for low bandwidth accessories, external ports/hubs will work, or a simple internal expansion (cheap).
If you need more ports AND more channels, you'll need something more expensive. Check this model - it comes in various sizes and various ports/channels.
You using an extension cable? The Inatek card is not really recommended anymore, more reports of issues than solutions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That is the best card that you can get. Been using it for about 4-5 months now and not a single disconnect or any issue with it at all.
I have this one.
4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power
Wow, that's a ton! This is super useful info, thank you.
Would something like this work as the USB 3 AIC?
Here's a four port one
There's also this HCL meant specifically for Macs, but part of that is that they require no extra power.
They don't recommend using a USB hub. You'd be better off buying an Inatek USB PCI-E expansion card. You can learn why here: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
Oculus recommends this card: https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-compatible-Version-KT4004/dp/B00I027GPC/
Sure! I’m on mobile, but I can update with links in a bit.
Inateck USB 3.0 PCIe Card - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I027GPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZZRjNez4pYJV7 (works on Sierra on Mac Pro 3,1 despite its description)
Cateck USB 3.0 Hub w/ SD Card Reader - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019E6YVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UOhCABRZkrNCg
eSATA PCIe card (was already installed when I bought it, but I can find the brand)
Blackmagic Intensity HDMI PCIe Card
AMD Radeon 7970 (flashed)
> USB 3.1 (a $50 card)
Haven't seen any USB 3.1 adapters yet, but bought a USB 3.0 HBA for $30.
> Any 3,1 can be flashed up to 4,1
I don't think that's correct. The 3,1 and 4,1 machines are considerably different beasts. Perhaps you are thinking of 4,1 » 5,1?
[ edit: s/is/that's/ ]
if your time is worth money, just buy another 3.0 pci card. I have the same mobo since 2011 and its worth its weight in gold but the usb 3 ports are nothing but heartache for hackintosh. Spent 25 bucks here and never looked back -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the USB 3.0 card I have. It's inexpensive and works great!
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're looking for a cheap miner just for fun, I would go for the Antminer U2 such as this one : http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418098493&sr=1-1&keywords=antminer+U2 . They can go up to 2.4Gh/s, which is more than 5 times the 336Mh/s than the one you found for only twice the price. This is what I use and it's pretty neat. I'm sure you can find them for a few bucks cheaper if you shop around.
Yes, quite likely ASMedia is your problem if that's your USB controller.
Did they have you run the compatibility tool and it greenlit everything? Cause I would think you'd get a warning about your USB.
Fix is pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=PCIe+USB&qid=1565973679&s=gateway&sr=8-10
$20 and if it doesn't work, it's amazon, so just return it
Have you added any new USB devices to being plugged in? The reason ASMedia has problems is their controller can't actually handle much more than a single full spec USB3 connection. So other devices being active can limit the bandwidth to below what is required.
Can confirm this card works like a charm:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG5oxbQXEQ0EK
I have the two port version with a powered bluray drive and a WD My Passport working wonderfully using PCI power.
FL1100 has great support in Sierra and El Capitan.
I'm using an Inateck KT4006 and works OOB on my hack.
Here's the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1498570527&sr=8-15&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
I am using one from Inateck and it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542900606&sr=8-3&keywords=Inateck+2-Port+PCI-E+USB+3.0+Express+Card
Thank you buddy, do you think this one will work I don't really need 7 slots https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_10?crid=151VKSSAANTDU&keywords=usb+3.0+pcie+expansion+card&qid=1559184482&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+3.0+pci%2Celectronics%2C166&sr=1-10
In my other comment, I explained why I thought USB 3.0 will not fix your issue.
However, if you still want to upgrade to USB 3.0 for other reasons, I think you are taking the wrong strategy in doing it.
You should buy a USB 3.0 PCIe card like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/
If you want the ports to be easily accessible from the front, I would buy a cheap USB 3.0 hub or extension cord like these:
https://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Compact-Update-Chipset-Charging/dp/B01FPG5BSE/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/
I think this idea better because this is universally compatible hardware. You can move this and use it on any other computer in the future. It is not a custom piece of hardware that you will be stuck with and can never use on another machine.
That was really the biggest negative for me as well. I'd also like 8 SATA ports, but there are few options there and the Tomahawk has 6 and an NVMe. There are PCIe USB 3.0 expansion cards that are a rather cheap and an easy solution to the lacking USB ports on the back of the board, so spending maybe $20 if I HAD to have them seemed worth it. With the google express deal, and maybe buying a USB expansion card I'm still spending around $100 or less for a solid board; it seemed foolish not to jump on that.
EDIT: Lemons happen, so barring we get one of those I doubt we're going to regret this purchase, and if the need arises later on to upgrade the mobo, this one is a good deal to get by until B550 is available and/or X570 prices drop to a more reasonable price.
I have a board with a 720201 chipset that's now working.
And... it's on sale right now!
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Expansion-Controller-Additional-Connection/dp/B00JFR2I2C/
I just put one of these in my Supermicro CSE846 running Proxmox and it works great.
I asked the same question recently and seems like the Inateck 4 ports card is recommended. Haven't tried it though:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C
https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/6actac/r710_add_in_usb_30_pcie_card/
Just bought this one, hope itll fit. I have 2 970s in my case and I'm not sure if its blocking the PCI port or not.. well see.
You can even buy a SATA switch to power only the drive(s) you want to use.
You could use something like this to switch power on and off for the drives. Also why can't you just use the clover bootloader to choose which OS to boot into at startup? The software bootloader is completely different from the one you used in the past (made specifically for hackintoshes) so boot files aren't tampered with. I've been using it on my laptop for over 2 years with no issues.
I've done the same setup on my desktop. I bought this Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay (HDD-PS6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZR3E70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tcTKzbQQV096C from Amazon. Inside my desktop I mapped the toggle buttons to my different hardrives. The sata cables remain connected at all times. Your motherboard may give a warning on every boot that a sata device is missing, in my case it doesn't.
I did this mainly so me playing on Linux didn't mess up my personal files in Windows but now a days it's more so that Windows doesn't mess up Ubuntu.
Just Google "Hard Drive power switch". You'll find videos and switchers for sale like this.
I use this pcie card. https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519251171&sr=1-1&keywords=allegro+pro
1 controller for each usb. Then in each usb i plug in a 4 port usb hub. so u can use 16 hdds in this pcie card.
Cool!
Can you already share some information? Which hardware are you planning to use? What will the custom case look like?
Regarding the USB card: I just recently found out that these cards exist. There was a discussion about them on the vfio-users mailinglist. This card should also have the right capabilites.
FWIW this card worked great for me, I was able to pass all four individual controllers through to different (non-Mac) VMs.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/
Since the card is aimed at the Mac market, I think your VM should have no trouble using the FL1100 USB controllers on it.
This here is the expansion card to go for:
https://www.sonnettech.com/product/allegroprousb3pcie.html
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-4-Port-Windows-Compatible/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523992582&sr=8-3&keywords=sonnet%2Busb%2B3&th=1
It has 4 ports with 4 individual USB 3 controller chips. That means you can run 4 sensors at full speed with this card without running into bandwidth issues.
if you are going to add a lot of external drives then you need to add more USB 3.0 cards.
But there is a difference between the $30 4 port and the $100 4 port.
For example the one in the link below has 4 dedicated USB 3 controllers on the card, and it connects to PCI-e x4 so it can make use of a lot of bandwidth. The cheaper cards don't have the ability to support all that bandwidth, but they are useful in particular situations.
So you want 4 or 8 drives to 4 ports the $30 is ok.
If you want 16 with same speed as if you went right to the pc then the one below is want you want.
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522273173&sr=1-1&keywords=Sonnet+Allegro+Pro+USB+3.0+PCIe+card
Its up to you if you can put in 3 or 4 card into your pc then go for the lower cost cards. If you only have 1 or 2 areas to connect the card then go for the $100.
Daaaaamn, it's $110: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10
Anyone test this or the card you linked? Technically latency could still be an issue that disqualifies it. The VLI controllers on the card you linked are not approved by Oculus, they specifically say not to get the 5 or 7 port Inateck cards because they use the VLI chips for some of the USB slots.
I still think Oculus could have them make a 5 USB slot card with maybe 2 or 3 high quality controllers and custom drivers. I'd be willing to pay $50 or more to get rid of any residual problems.
How do you have yours mounted? That's a huge play area for the Rift. Try unplugging your HMD USB then plugging it back in when you get the 1 fps controller tracking. Gets rid of it for me every single time.
You're talking about this card from Sonnet, right? I'm tempted, but I don't think it's worth it. I bet a card with 2 Fresco controllers would be good enough as well, maybe a dual ASMedia one.
in our 2010 Macs we use these. We have 5 of them and they do graphics for Broadcast TV all day long. Adobe Suite and Cinema 4D. Im havent looked into upgrading to 1070s yet.
OSX Sierra and 64GB Memory
EVGA GeForce GTX 970
Samsung 500gb SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Velocity-Extreme-Performance-VEL-SOLO-X2/dp/B0090IA3AU/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505944526&sr=1-9&keywords=apricorn%2Bsata&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10
It was my idea so I guess I will go first.
Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 PCIe card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10
Don't watch too much LTT any more but caught this one on a recent video. It is a USB card with 4 ports on 4 seperate controllers.
Could come in quite useful especially where speed or direct connectablitly is concerned. Though hot plug support is kind of added in recent versions of KVM, it isn't quite ready for seamless or bug free use yet.
However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.
If your not experiencing this then wait :)
As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.
**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset
Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite
I have the 990 MT with the i7-2600. I would suggest buying the corsair CX550 or CX600 psu for this as it is the EXACT size of the stock PSU you need to install using the case's included mounting bracket. If you don't get the right size the bracket will get in the way of installing the side panel.
This one ----> https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0MY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522928777&sr=8-4&keywords=corsair%2Bcx%2Bseries%2B550%2Bwatt%2B80%2Bplus%2Bbronze%2Bcertified&dpID=51YFU0kvQJL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1
I would go with at least the 500 watt model, but I have the 550 watt, you can find them on sale usually.
When it comes to the GPU, just make sure you are buying one that is less than 8" in length. I have the EVGA SC GTX1060 3gb ---- single fan model that is factory overclocked.
Just make sure you aren't trying to install a GPU that runs off only the PCI-E power as it only supplies a max of 50ish watts or less to the card (Dell says only 35watts, but it will push a little more than that). You want a card that will run off the 6 or 8 pin pci-e power connectors on the new PSU.
Picking up 2 more sticks of DDR3 ram is also recommended. I have 16gb in my system now. Keep in mind this board only supports 4 x 4gb dimms of ram. I picked up a matching 8gb kit of matching ram for my machine for $32 from a reputable seller on ebay. just something to keep in the back of your mind.
I've also installed a 4 port usb 3.0 card on my machine. It will fit just fine in the bottom pci-e 16x slot of the mobo. TRUST me, you will want this as the included 2.0 ports are slow as molasses for 3.0 usb drives. You can pick one up here ---> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also decided to go with an ssd for the boot drive and programs. I went with the Samsung Evo 850 250gb. Make sure you place the SATA cable on the furthest right SATA port on the MOBO. This is the only SATA 3.0 port on the motherboard, the next one to the left is a SATA 2.0 port (that I have a 2tb 7200rpm HDD on for storage and games). I wouldn't use the furthest left 2 white sata ports. They are sata 1.0 and the controller is garbage for those two ports and a known issue with these motherboard.
Last thing I would mention is that if you are running this on Windows for gaming, I would stick to the Windows 7 Pro install that came with your machine. Trying to get my GPU and Windows 10 drivers working on my machine was a nightmare and required hours of searching for compatible drivers, also the board in the 990 didn't get the bios update for win 8.1 or win 10. So for the life of this machine --- 2-3 more years, I would stick with win 7 since it is supported till 2020.
GOOD LUCK!!! PM me if you have questions!
USB PCIe Card, 4 Port USB 3.0 to PCI Express Card Expansion card, PCI-E to USB 3.0 4 Port Hub Controller Adapter, Rosewill RC-508 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Add On card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Bc8CDbXC9G32T
Like this?
I'm using a rosewill rc-508 pci card and it works fine
PCIe x16 just means there are 16 busses that go to and from the CPU to transfer data faster.
A PCIe USB 3.0 card probably caps out at around x4, if that. So you can put it in a x16 slot, but you won't see any better performance.
Something like this would be fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Express-Expansion-Connector-Renesas/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482549131&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=pcie+usb+3.0+card&psc=1
You can also put this in a x1 slot and be fine as well.
x4, x8, x16 are mostly for GPU performance and other high end expansion cards.
Don't know if it will or not but this is the one I used and it worked great. I'm sure that would work too though. I had static on my most recent build and changing some BIOS settings and playing around with different ports helped reduce it. Try different combinations to see if it helps clear it up if you haven't already.
Cancel your order - searching the reviews for 'Oculus' reveal a lot of disappointment.
The only satisfied Rift users seem to be using it for a single sensor and maybe the HMD.
Wait... this matters? I just bought the cheapest 4 usb 3.0 pci I could find. Should I try to cancel that? This really didn't seem like a big deal...
I got this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the card you use doesn't require power to be connected, you can use it.
I'm using one of these in an R310 with no power connected to it. It works fine for connecting my external HDD's, though all of mine have their own power supply (not powered via USB).
get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/
Your CPU has 40 PCIe lanes. A PCIe SSD as a scratch drive for ongoing projects is the last best thing you can do to what is already a beast of a machine.
*looks like you can use NVMe m.2 SSDs after all! Looks like after updating the BIOS on your board you can use an adapter.
This one should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-PCI3-0-3PIN-32GBIT-HYPERM-2X4MINICARD/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473966183&sr=8-1&keywords=Asus+Hyper+M.2
I ended up using one of these when I had a similar issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YUCAXS/
Not without this it won't!
So the Vive Wireless requires a PCIe 1x, but my motherboard doesn't have one. It does however have a mini PCIe slot. Anyone think one of the miniPCIe to PCIe adapters would impact functionality of the wireless unit?
My motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/AC
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVPITN8/?coliid=I1K641BVK9YXMM
If your laptop in question has a thunderbolt 3 port, there is a very good chance you could get it to work with an external pci enclosure.
If not your probably screwed.
Some people have also thought about using the Mini PCI-e slot on laptops and convert it to normal PCI-E 2 1X with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
That is still up in the air if it will work or not. Even if it does work you would still have to do some modding on the laptop as most laptop are not built to have a cable sticking out of them from the mpci slot is built onto the motherboard. Not really a viable solution in my opinion.
This is what I am using, I have one in each of my dell servers.
https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Superspeed-Connector-Desktops/dp/B01G86538S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510169261&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+3.0+pcie
i'm not sure, check something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Superspeed-Connector-Desktops/dp/B01G86538S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537365956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=pci-e+usb+3.0&psc=1
I just posted a question here about what card or box I should get and someone recommended me this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G86538S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dne2DbJARPMD4
Here ya go. I've got the 2 port version of this which also has a USB 3.0 header for the inside. Works perfectly.
Just go to Amazon or Newegg or where ever you prefer and search for "PCIe to USB".
Example
Sounds a lot like unreliable USB issues which go really wierd if they aren't so bad that the device can partially work.
A Hub isn't going to work here so need a USB 3.0 expansion board.
I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inateck+usb+3.0&qid=1557821083&s=gateway&sprefix=inateck&sr=8-4
For a little over a year for both cameras and HMD.
But first I would try disabling the CPU graphics.
There should be a hundred or five videos on how to do it, it varies with motherboard manufacturer.
There should really be 0 change of bricking anything, that hasn't been true for 15 years or so.
Also, is your PSU up to the task of a new more powerful GPU?
It could even cause issues for USB devices that require a lot o juice, the rift and cameras are much more power hungry than most other USB devices.
Don't know about case (probably just whatever works best for you) but I was having issues with my Vive camera working consistently. Bought one of these to dedicate the USB traffic and haven't had any issues since then.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_284717_t2_B00FPIMJEW
If you look at the second link and search "oculus" in the reviews you'll find that it's pretty incompatible. I was recommended this one which is still on the cheaper side but seems to work fine for people (I haven't received mine yet). Only con is the color.
Do you mean PCI-e x1? If so thats very common for most USB 3.0 cards providing several ports on the same controller - which means the ports all share the bandwidth.
People putting these in larger slots than x1 are just wasting the slot as these cards do not even have the pins to support more than one lane.
Only USB 3.0 cards that provide multiple controllers as such can provide full USB 3.0 speed at multiple ports in parallel support multiple PCI-e lanes.
So in general, there is no problem in using a PCI-e x1 slot for an additional USB controller card. It is meant to be this way. If the card fits the slot, you are fine.
https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-KTU3FR-4P-expresskarte-SATA-Stromanschluss-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493373480&sr=8-6&keywords=inateck+usb+3
I fixed all my Rift tracking issues adding this powered USB PCI card. Works like a charm now.
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
By compatible I mean "known working" with the Rift S. During CV1 roomscale, some cards had issues with multiple sensors and even now you have to be careful. Oculus recommended a PCIe card like this for rift, but it does not seem to work with Rift S.
So before you buy anything search the sub, the web and take a look at all reviews for someone confirming compatability with Rift S.
But I must honestly say I cannot guarantee that this eliminates all issues.
Additionally this should be kept in mind:
I just bought this one, as recommended by some people on the subreddit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cJ6LDbRE4KNKA
I think it solved a lot of my issues
I’ve had usb problems before, this USB card was the answer for me and many other people. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-BZDb56EDZVH
The two front ones ABSOLUTELY need to be in 3.0 slots, first I bought a insignia two port USB 3.0 pci-e card and it would only register one of the sensors as 3.0 and the one that was only tracking 2.0 kept freezing the whole headset. Then I purchased an inoteck 4 port USB 3.0 pci-e card and was able to get it work with 0 freezing. The inoteck has to have some power from the PSU and the sata power cable didn't work, I had to use the molex - sata adapater that came with it in order for it to install the drivers properly. Could just be random hiccup though?
Inoteck 4 port - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521219427&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0+4+port
Here's a good brand and model. $23
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520763709&sr=8-4&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
But you might check your mobo to see if you have a 19 pin usb 3.0 header, and then get this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-2-Port-Internal-Connector-RDCR-11004/dp/B007YDJJFS/ref=sr_1_19?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1520764116&sr=1-19&keywords=usb+front+panel
I had an issue with this too, but others on this Reddit page suggested to me that I could use a PCI-E to USB 3 expansion like this.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I haven't gone ahead and bought it so far though. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I'm also wary of whether my i-7 860 will be good enough to power VR, so together with having to purchase this USB expansion plus a better graphics card it's left me wondering whether I'd just be better of waiting until later in the year and buying a brand new computer instead.
Read the wiki. It has suggested hardware.
Edit: here it is
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bwxGzbK9DWNF3
Your computer probably needs that Inateck USB card. It doesn't sound like your USB cables are getting enough power.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503243521&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
The question is a little bit broad, but you plug it into your graphics cards display port and into a USB port, download the Oculus software and steam VR if you want to play steam games and you're set. You'll want a graphics card like a GTX1050ti or higher for the games and at least a modern CPU.
Alternatively in the Rift S case it uses some kind of 3D mapping of your room/ play area to track the headset with it's cameras and then also uses the headsets cameras to track the controllers via IR lights emitted from them that flash at different frequencies.
If you do get a Rift S and your specs are up to par but you find that you loose tracking completely sometimes or get static/ snow looking stuff on your screen this can be fixed by purchasing and installing a USB expansion card in your pc, the recommended ones are basically anything with a Fresco L1100 chipset like this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Here is the link to the card that is recommended by the subreddit wiki. If you go to rooms scale setup option 2 the card is listed there. Here is the exact card listed in the wiki. link
I'll admit the black/red is not much better than the silver/green but the ones you are looking at are still not the recommended ones.
The root cause i probably your PC, or more precisely your USB 3.x port doesn't supply enough current.
Try the recommended Inatek PCIe card, as it should provide enough power for the Rift S: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=inateck+4+port+usb+pcie&qid=1572252471&sr=8-4
> and wireless headset.
I read this can stress the usb port's bandwidth. If your system has two USB controllers I'd put this and the wifi on one controller and the vive on the other. Or unplug them and see if your issues go away.
I also slightly disagree that your CPU is to blame. It might be, but its pretty close to a 2500k, which a lot of people here use. It is 6 cores vs 4, so its per core performance is much lower. That may or may not be something to worry about depending on how well multi-thread the games you play are, but we do know USB issues are usually the main culprit.
> 1 TB SSD
Pop then out of its case and put it into your SATA natively. Why are you using USB here? This can eat up all the USB bandwidth on a controller all on its own and even then you're getting a fraction of the performance you're paying for. I really think you just have too many USB devices here and the vive is notoriously hard on USB. If this must be external, I'd consider moving to an eSATA connector.
You can also just buy a cheap known-good USB card, put it in, and have the Vive use it exclusively.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
$24
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ARBGYVKL33VV&keywords=inatek+usb+3.0+card&qid=1554128873&s=electronics&sprefix=inatek%2Celectronics%2C241&sr=1-3
​
It's the one I use and the one that was suggested by oculus.
-Unplug other unused USB devices,
-Disable front facing camera if you have turned it on.
-Reset your controllers and pair them again with your headset.
Maybe this PCI-E USB expansion card can help.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/
I think most people use the Inatek ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
I do, and I don't have any issues with tracking, with a 2-sensor 360° setup.
What the other guy is saying.
If you don't have enough USB slots just get a PCIe USB Card for $20, should fix all issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=PFPXXSZ8SX3NFV8B1FCR
This one is officially recommended by Oculus.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
there is the one with the Fresco Chipset that Oculus recommends and I Use
When I looked into this. Due to limitations of the camera resolution, with 4 cameras your looking at a maximum play space of about 12 feet.
The problem with additional cameras is USB bandwidth. Something that a hub can not fix. Instead you'll need to buy a couple of the Inateck USB adapters the Occulus crowd recommend. And put 2 cameras on each controller.
The PSMove Service is single threaded. So the additional cameras won't impact your CPU utilisation. Though you may have to reduce the per camera FPS if you have weak cores. Though my own experience with using all these things is 8 cores only barely enough. And would recommend upgrading to a 16 core CPU if at all possible (I know it's not an option for me, because if I had the money for a 16 core CPU, I'd just go buy a Vive. The price is comparable).
One word of warning, with the USB adapter boards. Don't use Molex to Sata adapters, like the one supplied to power the thing... Those things are infamous within the tech support world for being the number one cause of PC related fires.... The SATA power splitters are fine, so use them if your short of plugs on your PSU
I already have an Innatek USB 3.0 card, specifically this one, that I bought to use with the Vive. I'll still try this later though.
I am already mounting all sensors about 8 feet in the air and all have active USB repeaters, two with USB 2.0 and two with USB 3.0. I am also using this Inatek 3.0 PCI card. If there is not a way for me to get decent tracking with that set up, then fuck that, I'll just wait for the knuckles and sell this thing.
Hello.
I've had the exact same issue as you did. And I've solved it like this. You will need three things.
Personally, I'm using this one: amazon link
However, this one might also work: amazon link
You have a different problem. You need to install this usb card
Is it an older TE stick? I only recall older Xbox sticks having issues, the generation 1 sticks. I had a PS3 stick before, and got it to work on PC after a lot of headaches. To make mine work, I had to buy a PCI to USB 2.0 card with a VIA chipset on it. I didn't think Xbox sticks were affected by this problem, but I hope this information helps you. The pci cards themselves are fairly cheap, and you should be able to pick one up online.
Here's one for illustration's sake: notice the VIA branding on the chip.
Best of luck.
I was having a similar issue with a first generation modi. Worked fine on a gigabyte motherboard with a FX8350 for about a year and half.
I did a new build with an intel i5 on a gigabyte motherboard and the modi was no longer recognized.
I am running linux and am using Ubuntu. Journalctl -f showed nothing when I plugged the modi in. Not seen at all.
I emailed Schiit tech support and they suggested a different cable and/or a powered usb hub. I tried all that and it still didn't work.
I should add that the Modi worked/works fine on my laptop, my FX8350 box and my windows work machine. There is something weird with gigabyte, socket 1151, intel ????
Don't know if there is also some weirdness with the USB implementation on the modi but I also have a audioengine D1 which uses the same DAC as the modi and it works with no issues.
Anyways, its all working great now. I used this:[Amazon]
(http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Thanks to LaiLaiHei for finally getting it to work.
With the PS3 version, if you're unlucky and the stick doesn't work you need to buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJZGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dSEVAb4ZW0K96
Basically any pci card with usb 2.0 that has the VIA chipset.
And yes! The same stick for x360 works flawlessly on any PC.
You're welcome.
The only thing you can do is buy a PCI card with USB 3.0 connectors, as the internal ones come with the mainboard and cannot be changed.
Something like this.
The USB 2.0 ports are provided by the Z68 chipset, the USB 3.0 ports are provided by an ASM1042 controller attached to the PCIE bus.
It could be that the chipset USB controller has died, and if that's the case there's nothing you can do about it. If you're running out of ports you could try an AIC USB card like this or just use a USB hub.
Another cheap solution is buying a cheap USB add-in car (like this), and see if you have the same issue. If you have the same troubles with another card, it's a win 10 or driver issue. If not, then BIOS or mobo.
If this problem came across my desk, that's exactly how I'd handle it (after updating the BIOS). Easy and quick, if you already have a known-good test card :)
Your back usb ports will be fine/run at 3.0. Your motherboard looks like you have a PCe 2.0 x1 port which this should work , or something similar as long as you have the extra room on you psu http://www.amazon.com/Anker®-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
I think OP is talking about something like this.
Yeah, something like that card in your edit will work. If you can purchase off Amazon though, this is a much better deal.
All you need to do is plug it into the black slot from your picture, and connect a 4-pin Molex connector to it. You should have at least one extra connector laying around in there.
This is probably the cheapest solution to add USB 3.0 of you don't mind the ports being in the back.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ARQV6U?cache=f361b2bb9589d8224b998389dd769c54&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405431854&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I've seen it recognized in Proxmox and Windows 10, but haven't fully tested yet. Bought it back in 2014 but it didn't work for my desktop back then. It has an atx power input but you don't need it for data only or low power devices.
this is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ARQV6U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ahh, thanks for the info!
I just installed this one the other night but had issues getting it to work. Seems like the one you linked might be better; still doesn't have a seperate chip for each interface so using a USB 2.0 device could cause the entire thing to slow down to 2.0 speeds:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ARQV6U
Since the above one I bought could be DOA I'll return it and get the one you linked!
Edit: "From what I've read about my card, the card only has enough power for ONE USB slot to be at full 3.0 speed at a time. If you use more than one (mine has four), then it slows down. I imagine that's why it isn't compatible. I wish I would have known that when I got it last week..."
Yup, definitely returning the one I got.
you need a reader that connects to a 20 pin header
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-3-5-Inch-Internal-Reader-CR-UIN3/dp/B01D31V2L8/
if you don't have a free 20 pin header you will also need a PCIE USB card that has one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE/
Just means your motherboard doesn't have a USB3 header so you can't plug in the front USB 3 ports, so they won't be functional.
If you want the front USB3 ports to work you need this so you can plug the internal wire to your motherboard.
This is the top rated one on amazon. Don't really have any experience with one so I can only help with my simple googling skills.
You could buy a USB 3.0 PCIe card with an internal front port plug
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/
Build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | £173.94 @ Aria PC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | £24.97 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £93.82 @ Aria PC
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £66.04 @ More Computers
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £79.00 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £62.95 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | £280.00 @ Aria PC
Case | Thermaltake Chaser A31 ATX Mid Tower Case | £59.78 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £46.99 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | LG BH16NS40.AUAR10B 16x SATA Internal BD-RW Retail Kit | £90.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | £0.00
Monitor | Asus VN248H 23.8" Monitor | £192.79 @ Amazon UK
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | £12.75 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Cherry G80-3850LYBGB-2 Wired Standard Keyboard | £55.24 @ Amazon UK
Mouse | Gigabyte GM-M6900 Wired Optical Mouse | £16.99
Speakers | M-Audio Studiophile AV30 20W 2ch Speakers | £89.00
Other| Dell 1905fp Monitor| £0.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £1344.26
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-16 16:28 GMT+0000 |
Two questions:
Yeap a lot of the pic-e adaptors have the pins you can plug into, but again you'll be limited to bandwidth http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450506156&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+3+pci+card
Or you could get a USB 2 pin to USB 3 pin converter.
Also I would highly recommend getting a 5.25" one instead, you're getting way more functionality from them. http://www.amazon.co.uk/5-25%C2%A1%C2%B1-Desktop-Computer-Reader-Built-/dp/B013GDW24E/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&qid=1450506793&sr=8-46&keywords=5.25+sd+card+reader
all else fails you could get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE
Plugs into a PCI-E slot and has a connector for the USB 3 header
You can use a pci-e card with front header connections. You can buy a cheap SSD and graphic card which should be good enough for media streaming and stuff.
For your USB problems this should do the trick, or at least something similar. Plugs into the short pci-e x1 slots on your motherboard. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007SJGGAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1417369559&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
It adds a USB 3 header to plug your case into.
Bbalkenn is correct... either use an adapter and plug it into USB 2.0, or buy an internal usb 3.0 PCI card.
You can get one with or without USB ports on the back of the card.
I thought id update you - I finally got it to work (on the latest ESXI)! No need to pass through the entire controller, I can assign USB ports as needed.
Using this card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did have to revery back to the legacy USB drivers:
https://kb.vmware.com/s/article/2147650
Build complete!
I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:
Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)
The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.
Final tally:
TOTAL COST: 322.98 USD + tax
Not bad to get a few more years of life out of the components. And this case and PSU combo should be a solid platform for future upgrades.
I wish you luck with your own build. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
http://amzn.com/B007SJGGAE I won't install it til this weekend though.
Really sorry to hear you are having issues, that sucks. Ignoring any possible hardware issues with your USB you could try mounting 2 of your rift cameras in the exact same position as Vive ones would be. You said it was a smaller space so the tracking distance should be fine in that case. It is very important (in my opinion) that you don't have them facing directly at each other like you would do with the Vive. Have them aimed just a tiny bit offset from each other. Think of it as assigning one half of the room to one of the sensors to track but you still want there to be a lot of overlap so just a small offset. Then put your 3rd sensor lower down in one of the 2 remaining corners of the room facing directly to the center of your place space. I did a lot of testing with various sensor setups and this has got me the best tracking and as close to Vive quality as I can get (I have both headsets so I am able to easily compare the two as I try out various Rift setups).
Some other minor things to consider would be to check for any large reflective surfaces in your room (other than your monitor(s)) and try to remove those if there are any. Also If you have any windows in your play space be sure to have the blinds down and closed so no direct sunlight is coming in when playing.
If after trying all this you still have crappy tracking then it's probably a USB hardware issue and in that case I am not sure what to do. Oculus recommends this, but I have never tried it and cannot comment on its quality. Maybe others here have tried it and can chime in. Your final option is to just sell it all and get a Vive. I wouldn't blame you after having such a difficult time with the Rift.
This sounds very similar to an issue I was having, except instead of occurring when I turned my head it happened when I had to move my Touch controllers vigorously to either side of my head... if I couldn't see most/all of what a hand was doing during Beat Saber, for instance, I was guaranteed to lag a couple times a song.
I had just upgraded my GPU and stuff in advance of getting VR so knew it wasn't that. I ended up buying and trying a few different devices so I could swap controllers/cables... ultimately came to find my PC was the issue, and that the (minimum-spec) USB 3.0 ports it had were being overwhelmed.
Based on some advice here I got a PCIe USB 3.0 card to combat the problem. This is the one I had to get because I needed a PCIex1. Take caution if you do this, however... there's an Oculus-approved list (along with some community-endorsed ones) that will work, but largely anything else you buy won't.
Finally, if you haven't be sure you've done the trick where you go into device manager and alter your USB power settings. That didn't negate my problem, but it made it a lot better
edit: unless there's some obscure shit abt your hardware I'm missing absolutely nothing about that build should bottleneck VR performance
This will solve your USB issue with the Rift S as well as CV1 in that case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VOmlDb5GFDWMF
Honestly, there's really no way to tell if a card will work with the Vive well or not. If it's an aftermarket 3.0 or 3.1 card, chances are good, but I had an Anker USB 3.0 card whose controller was incompatible. If you can, the Inateck is guaranteed by both Oculus and HTC to perform well.
I noticed your link was a UK website. If you need to buy this card in the UK, here is a link on Amazon for my exact card.
A simple USB 3.0 hub might or might not do it for roomscale, I was told. Your sensors might start competing for bandwidth and become jittery.
I have no 1st hand experience with this but there were many discussions covering the topic and if you experience jitters with your hub, just go for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511527632&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+pcie
(Canadian price should be about the same I guess)
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4hkl5t/psa_asus_motherboards_might_have_usb_issues/
I would suggest picking up a USB Expansion Card before fucking with VIVE support
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Have you banged it against a wall, dropped it, or otherwise collided it with a physical object at all? I've seen other users posting that after banging it together they determined that a ribbon cable in the controller had been broken lose by the impact.
When they removed the casing though HTC said that they voided their warranty. So I wouldn't disassemble it if I were you. Just a potential to consider.
Another thing to try is another USB port (Get the Inateck USB 3.0 PCI card if you have a free PCI card slot).
Here's the link for that:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
ensure that the Lighthouses can accurately see your devices. There is a steam environment or background that shows the exact range of the lighthouses that I use to setup the lighthouses. pretty useful.
Here's the link for that:
http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=711411281
Without any insight into what you have for hardware though, I would venture to bet it is the USB port you may be using.
Can't believe you haven't had a good answer yet, yes, your setup is a fairly common one and should work, nothing is guaranteed but looks good to me, absolute worse case scenario you would need the inateck usb card for like 20 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524453764&sr=1-3&keywords=Inateck+usb+card
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=asc_df_B00B6ZCNGM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310818960639&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11087499979691478126&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007296&hvtargid=pla-535905638860&psc=1
I believe the 4 port card and the 5 port card are the same, just another port?
This works for me
The card recommended by Oculus is this one. I have it and it works great for me.
More info in the wiki for this subreddit.
Would this be a better option?
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I have no idea what I'm doing here..
You most likely can plug the sensors into the USB2.0 ports and be ok. Don't use the 3.0 if they are incompatible, it will cause stuttering and your entire world inside the headset can shake or not update fast enough. It also will stop you from running the Oculus setup but you can skip that part and try it if you really want to use the 3.0 ports.
I have mine in my 2.0 ports and its working ok but I also ordered a USB 3.0 card. This is the card Oculus recommends: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541429905&sr=8-1&keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+4+Ports+PCI-E&dpID=51ZO%252B9g92HL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
It isn't specifically 'Intel' chipset that matters, it's UHCI support. Which older Intel chipsets (ICH series) support, along with some via chips, etc.
My friend had no UHCI support so I picked out a plug-in card from amazon for him for a few dollars.
Anything with a VIA VT62xx (VT6202 / VT6212) chip should work. Something like this
I have an original PS3 TE stick and it works with windows 10. The issue for me was USB. Apparently the original TE stick doesn't work with more modern USB, so I bought a USB card. This is the one I used. I think the VIA chip is key.
It wont work natively with KI, though...you'll have to use some third party software to get it to working (same for SF5 for that matter).
Try this one out. Ever since I got that, I have had no issues using my MadCatz SFIV TE Stick on my PC. Heads up though, you literally have to unplug > plug the usb cable into the slot every time you open your PC for it to work. I figured it was a small constraint compared to the benefit I'd get moving forward as I have 2 japanese arcade sticks that I got for my PS3.
I bought a used PS3 TE1 on craiglists. Great condition for $90. Owner got SFV on the PC but couldn't get it to work. Still got it anyways and did some research. From what I found out it seems that the ps3 te1 hasn't been working on the pc since the sfiv days for many. It has to do with the UHCI USB 1.1 that many newer motherboards don't have. Only option for many is a hardware workaround which is a usb pci card. I got this one http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00. It's been working fine since with joy2key. Hope that helps.
Edit: If you are going to get any USB pci cards make sure it's of the VIA chipset. Those are the ones that the ps3 te1 will work with.
Look at this!!!
> This Syba SD-VIA-5U 4 port USB 2.0 pci 2.0 card adds 4 USB 2.0 ports, One shared internal USB 2.0 A port and 4 external USB 2.0 port, to your PCI-capable PC. The PCI USB 2.0 card is a versatile solution that lets you add USB 2.0 connections without having to upgrade the system motherboard. An all-in-one solution, the PCI USB card supports USB 2.0 device connections for full data transfer speeds of up to 480Mbps, and is backward compatible with USB 1.1 devices (max. transfer rate 12Mbps), allowing you to connect any USB device to the computer without having to worry about compatibility issues.
Oh man this looks great...
>Driver CD (for Windows ME, 98SE, Linux and Mac OS)
oh.
However the amazon listing claims
> Plug and Play Installation for Windows 7, Vista and XP
so maybe take that plunge?
Worst case scenario its $10
If it's anything like my SF4 SE stick you'll need a USB card (I use this) with an an old Intel chip(driver or something) and Joy2key.
Yes, your board has two legacy PCI slots that you can use for this. You can still get VIA chip based USB 2.0 cards quite easily. Ex.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-VIA-5U-5-port-Card-Chip/dp/B000JFJZGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381744012&sr=8-1&keywords=via+usb+card
This may provide some insight. If this really is the case, here's a solution to give you PC some USB 2.0 ports that you could potentially try.
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Have you tried [this?] (http://steamcommunity.com/app/310950/discussions/0/405692758720636054/) That's what I've been using since mine wouldn't register at all either. As a side note: I did also need to install a different USB port since some of the old PS3 TE's require specific ports, but I doubt that's your issue since it was working before.
Edit: Here's the port, if you decide to go that route.
Used it to get it to work on PC, basically this. Start button uses heavy kick.
Picked up this guy.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG
That's what I was going to post. I have it in my mame arcade and it works with MadCatz joysticks. Two of the four usb ports don't work, so I covered them with electrical tape. I really haven't used it since I finished my CP with an iPac. But, if I need a third player with a stick it's there. It's a POS component, but it's cheap and it works.
I can't say. For people who have got it working after the same issue, they often bought something like this. Good luck, and God's speed.
Yeah, I bought this PCI card that was supposed to fix the issue, but it didn't.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00%5D
Found this one, same price/ports as a lot of externals (which are usually usb 2.0), with good reviews. Only power required is a 4 pin male molex, and a sata to molex is included.
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394590014&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+pci-express+card
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
Cheap! Why the hell would I buy a 2.0 card?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
Perfect condition, all 3.0, well reviewed.
21229
You need USB 3.0.
Here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
Edit: I accidentally linked the same one twice.
If you don't find one used, this is a solid USB 3.0 card and it's only $20 on amazon.
You don't have enough mate. Buy a few of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
You can get a pci-e based expansion card like this or you could get something like this that connects to the internal usb3 header, if you case does not have usb3 ports.
EDIT: Are you sure the mobo only has 1 usb3 port? that spec might be referring to the internal header, from the pictures it looks like it has 4 usb3 ports.
Return that card. It shouldn't be that difficult to get a USB3 card working. This is highly rated and about the same price you paid for the Newegg card.
> I have a network card in my gaming rig
Wireless network card. You also have Gb ethernet integrated, right?
Also - that's two cards.
> usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.
It's not an USB card - it's just a panel with USB sockets - all USB logic is done on the MB and that function used to be performed by a separate component - like this one for USB3 http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
Correct me if im wrong but I dont think a hub will provide sufficient power. You probably need a pci-e card like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
With something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ZvWevb0SY7S6C
Or you could use a USB hub
I wonder if the problem would persist if he were using a pci usb card.
Would be a cheap(ish) fix for an annoying problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427719652&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+pci++card+3.0
Fair enough. Makes sense that if you have no need for certain features, there's not point in spending extra money on them. :)
PCI x1 4xUSB3.0 card would work. Something along those lines.
I just installed an Anker card (This One)I bought after running the compatability test on Wednesday and I'm also getting the warning about compatability. I think I'll wait and see how it works with the Rift before going out and buying another one. I've also got a front-facing 3.0 port and I think there's one in back on the motherboard.
You can fix the pins as long as you didn't completely fuck them.
Or you can get a cheap USB 3 expansion card which also has a USB 3 header like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484706089&sr=8-4&keywords=pcie+x1+to+usb+3.0
requires molex
An example of an adaptor as mentioned by boomerguy is here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-USB3-0-towards-USB2-0-Motherboard/dp/B009SJCPO8
Whilst perhaps obvious, it's worth noting that your case sockets will operate as regular USB2 sockets when connected through an adaptor.
If no USB3 headers are available on your motherboard, you can get PCIe cards which will allow you to add them. For example: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-Connector-another/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1405258976&sr=1-2&keywords=pcie+usb3
Yes that will work, however I recommend spending just a couple more dollars and purchasing this.
It'll give you a couple more USB 3.0 ports on the back, and an alternative port to plug-in your front connectors.
I can vouch for this unit personally. My motherboard does not have a USB 3.0 connector, whereas my case does. This adapter lets me use those front-panel ports.
well you could add something like this into your system
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1518133625&sr=8-6&keywords=pci+usb+3.0+card
you could then plug the front USB cable into this and get the front usb ports working as USB 3 and have 2 in the rear
No, but you could use either an adapter to run them at USB 2.0 speeds, or a PCIe card for USB 3.0 speeds.
Cheap card. 2x USB 3.0 port, 1x USB 3.0 header.
Expensive card. 5x USB 3.0 port, 1x USB 3.0 header, 1x Satapower port.
If you ever get some custom LEDs, I suggest the second one if you don't have any satapower ports free. (and if the LED takes molex, get a molex to satapower adapter, so you don't have to add a molex cable to your modular PSU, if its modular.) Or if you need more USB ports.
Here's one
Yep. This, for example.
You can get this
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE
and remove the backplate, it should fit or you can try to break off usb ports, it has a 20pin header for front IO
This one is PCI-e but fairly cheap: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SJGGAE//ref=cm_sw_su_dp
I am not sure old PCI exists (at least I don't know any).
Does this USB card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=N3GDRLS0UBGB&coliid=I241KQK38HB9FB contain a via chipset? (Asking because this is apparently necessary to get a usb controller to work).
Ahh that does make a difference. I presumed you only had the AMD APU. Since you have a GTX 970 running most VR-applications, shouldn't be a problem.
The cpu itself, is still a slight bit below the minimum requirements when compared to the intel i5-4590 Oculus uses as a reference point, but it might still be powerful enough to run VR-applications. (Don't quote me on this though)
In regards to your getting usb3 on your pc.
As your motherboard does not have any usb3 connectors, the only solution on top of my head would be to get a pci-e adapter like this and install it in a spare pci-e port if you have any.
As to your hdmi issue. I would be very surprised if your graphics card does not have a full sized hdmi output. Can i assume that it is your monitor which is lacking a full sized hdmi input?
Ok, yeah if one of the pins fell off that header is as good as dead. All of the USB ports on the back of the computer should still work fine, as they're attached directly to the motherboard. However the front USB 3.0s will be non-functional. Two options I can think of for fixing that problem.
Option 1: That will allow you to plug in those front facing USB 3.0 ports into a 2.0 header on the motherboard, however they'll be limited to running at 2.0 speeds.
Options 2: A card like that should allow you to plug in the front facing USBs into it via the 20 pin header.
that USB pin header is for 2 USB ports. the pin that's broken off is the D+ (data pin) of 1 of the 2 USB ports, so only one of them would be nonfunctional.
If you want to use both of the USB ports on the front of your computer, but don't care if they only run at USB 2.0 speeds you can use one of these adapters.
Another option if you want 2 USB 3.0 ports on the front is to get a USB 3.0 PCIe card like this
Why not just get a USB 3 card?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE
Anyone see any issue with:
Anker® Uspeed PCI-E to USB 3.0 2 Port Express Card
along with
Tendak USB 3.0 4-Ports 3.5 inch Metal Front Panel USB Hub
You may be out of luck finding an all in one, but what about going with a PCIe USB 3.0 card and using something like this for the 2.0?
Sandybridge is old now, I'm surprised there's even any boards for sale, none of the boards for sale on PCPP have the USB 3.0 header, so you either have to accept you can't use them or look for a second hand motherboard on ebay that does.
Another option if it's important you have them and you don't want to mess around looking for second hand boards that are compatible, is you can just buy an expansion card for USB 3.0, something similiar to this which you just slot into the motherboard and then plug the case headers into that.
Edit: Here's a picture showing the 20 pin connector you want
He's talking about this except with USB2 9pin connectors instead of the USB3 20pin.
Which Ryzen CPU/Mobo to upgrade to after maxing PCIE slots/SATA ports on i7 4790k/Rx480 8gb 1080p 144hz gaming/data hording build?
I'm using all the SATA headers and PCIE expansion slots on my computer, it would be nice to have more SATA based HDDs and the ability to run multiple GPU's. Current build.
My MSI Z97S SLI Krait's USB 3.0 ports were all taken so I added the usb 3.0 express card so I could plug everything in. But having more PCIE lanes would be ideal.
The 4790k is powerful enough for everything I do, it's processing power isn't holding me back just the PCIE lanes.
In no rush what so ever to build so I might wait for Ryzen 2.0 or what ever to upgrade then buy a 1600x (or which ever is best for my use case) used with a new motherboard and the best bang for the buck ram I can find.
I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Try one of these two pci-e usb cards.
2 Port
4 Port
I can't find the source right now but I read someplace that these cards were recommend by a valve employee for people having usb issues.
Good luck!
I bought a ST-lab card
It gets the job done.
Some people liked the Inatech line: link
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I believe this is the recommended USB 3 card for Oculus devices.
I ran into this problem and nothing anybody else said ever helped.
Turns out my DK2 camera installation was still there and couldn't be uninstalled no matter what I tried. I had to reformat my OS drive and it worked right away.
If you had a DK2 then thats probably it, otherwise it could be an incompatible USB chipset. Oculus recommends this one - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM I went through 3 of them before I discovered that I needed a specific USB chipset on the expansion card.
Try getting a board like this - it might help, assuming you don't have a laptop, and it's not expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inateck+4+ports+pci-e+to+usb+3.0&qid=1567011529&s=gateway&sprefix=inateck+4+&sr=8-4
Is this what you’re talking about?
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm afraid it was a random used part we got at a shop, but this would work:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pcie+usb+3.0&qid=1565999571&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Basically, the card will have to have the 15 SATA connector on it to deliver the correct bandwidth. These cards come in two variants: one which only draw power from the motherboard and deliver half the bandwidth of usb 3.0, and the SATA powered variant which delivers the full bandwidth.
ok. thank you so much. kinda lost here.
you were right. i turned down the oc on my ryzen to 1700 at 1.3V and my ram from 3200 to 29xx. that seemed to do the trick although its kinda annoying that i cant run my expensive ram as high as i would like to. and still weird that it worked before, but i will play it safe and look how it turns out for now. maybe run it a few days or even weeks like this to see if its stable. i think the 3,7 on the cpu i can live wiht, but i would love the 3200 on my ram.
for the usb stuff i actually went to amazon and ordered myself an inateck usb3.0 card with 4 ports.
https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-expresskarte-Anschlüsse-SATA-Stromanschluss-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511617276&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+usb+3
these come with a power connector directly to the psu. maybe that will help with balancing the power for my psu heavy usb devices. maybe i can put 2 rift sensors and 1 webcam on there and that will help balancing things out.
thx again for your help. i really appreciate it.
> Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors.
> https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
For me it´s different, I had a lot of problems with the 4 Port, switched to 5 Port and now it's working perfect, no problems at all.
I use this card I have 4 and 5 port version in my build they work fine. Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EGjgAb9TCQPQ6
I had some compatibility issues with windows 7 I went with windows 10 instead. If you have a spare pci-e slot you could get one of these or something similar and pass the whole controller: Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lbEbAbMT2P5SP
Sorry I know this isn't a huge help for your use case.
I've had this same problem and I bought the usb pci in one of the other links (http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM) and now it works! I now have no problems!
I have that motherboard. It did not pass the Oculus compatibility test. If memory serves you should not use the USB3 ports that are next to the PS/2 port.
The other USB3 (blue) ports seemed to work for me. I ended up building a new PC though so I'm not using that MOBO at the moment.
Might not hurt to pick up the recommended USB3 PCI card.
Did you buy the recommended USB3 PCI-E card? The first one of those I got was bad and the symptom was random hardware disconnect/reconnect sounds (including while not using the rift). I just bought another one, second one worked.
First one, which died: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Second one, which is still working: http://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64
Rift S is very finicky with usb power, and i researched this issue a while back. Perhaps the same solutions work with WMR headsets?
​
If you havent you should probably buy a USB 3.0 hub for the vive. When i first got mine my motherboards USB 3.0's were causing tracking issues, the whole think was extremely wobbly, and I couldn't get my controllers to connect wireless with the 2.0's and was still having intermittent tracking issues.
I bought this one and it fixed the issues for me. This is the one that was suggested by valve (or i think it was valve and not htc anyways, no idea were to find the source). The only difference is the amount of ports, I just got the 4 port so i could plug my HOTAS in, which solved some issues i was having with those as well.
Ouch! I'm in the UK and had to order mine from Germany. I bought the 4 port version, bit of a risk but it panned out :)
this is the one I got, it's an Amazon UK link but you might find one closer and cheaper if your lucky.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385721_137413551_TE_item
If I come across any other suggestions I'll pass it on.
Save yourself some trouble and just buy a pcie usb card like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
Hi fellow Asus mobo user. Our USB drivers are junk for the Rift.
5a. In VR.
Alternate band-aid fix to buying a new adapter: you can try switching around the combo of HMD and sensor USB plugs until your system works smoothly 99% of time. But the occasional disconnect effect was still so jarring for me that I bought the Inateck card.
They should be recognised, even if you end up with using USB2 and they give you warnings about data rate etc. The rift and sensors are the pickiest devices about USB that I've ever used. Make sure you have the latest motherboard chipset drivers etc installed, you may end up needing to buy the recommended USB 3 card though. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-SuperSpeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517626310&sr=8-3&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0, and I had to put it in my other graphics card slot for it to work
Ive got the inatec 4 port Inateck https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dSHAybSGYS26V and its had major tracking problems so i now use that card for my none oculus devices and have oculus related connections on my onboard usb3 and its fine. May that particular Inatec card is not compatable..
Inateck Carte Contrôleur PCI Express USB 3.0 4 ports PCI-E vers usb 3.0 avec 4pin vers 2x15pin câble et 15pin vers 2x SATA 15pinY-Cable compatible Windows XP/Vista/7/8/10 https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PCYGDb7KH8GTY
This is the one I have ( two like this to be precise)
When I plug the oculus on them, it’s not even detected, but works for any and all others devices.
I didn’t said nobody else solved this issues, but that I couldn’t find a solution that fixes MY issue.
It sounds like you might need a powered HDMI repeater. I have a 28ft HDMI cable that works perfectly with a powered HDMI repeater of this style. The one I have looks exactly the same, but it was "COWEEN"-branded when I bought mine.
From my experience, the output power of GPUs can vary greatly and tends to be the bane to any HDMI extension-related woes.
I started my Rift setup with a 1050 Ti and used a 10ft HDMI extension cable without any repeater (powered or otherwise) necessary, but once I upgraded to a 1080 Ti I had to start using at least an un-powered HDMI repeater. When I upgraded to my 28 ft extension, I needed the powered HDMI repeater I listed previously... but when I start by connecting a high bandwidth 3 ft HDMI cable from my GPU to the powered repeater, the card's HDMI output provides enough power to activate the repeater (there's a convenient red LED on it) without the use of the optional external power adapter. After connecting those I put the 28 ft HDMI cable into the output of the powered HDMI repeater, the other end of the 28 ft HDMI cable into the un-powered HDMI repeater, and then I plug my CV1's HDMI cable into the output of the un-powered HDMI repeater.
The entire cabling process is awkward to accurately describe, but it's much more stable than I ever expected it to be... and infinitely more stable than my 4 sensor setup was before I got the Oculus-recommended Inateck PCI-E USB 3.0 card.
As for USB 3.0 extension cables, I have 2 of the exact same ones you have in your post (except that they were "Cable Matters" branded at the time) for my setup: I use one for my CV1 and another for a sensor placed in a distant corner from my PC. They work fine as long as they're plugged into USB 3.0 ports with sufficient bandwidth and power available to them.
Hi again. Tried my Rift S on another person's PC today (I have Ryzen 1600 and GTX 1070, they have Intel i7 and GTX 1080) and it worked perfect. No issues. At random intervals, I'll be playing and I'll just get stuck. The game still renders. Nothing is frozen. My controllers and headset stay in whatever position they are though. If I crouch down, it displays the world like I'm standing up. I can turn around but if I step forward, I don't move in the game. I've done everything I can, including contacting support, moving everything I have to USB 2.0 (which is only my mouse and keyboard, nothing else) and using a USB 3.1 port, reinstalled Windows 3 times and done other fixes in Windows. I can't think of anything else but to get a USB expansion hub, since my motherboard (B350 PC MATE) might not be able to provide enough power or bandwidth. I live in Australia and buying the recommended Oculus expansion card (https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM) costs approximately 60 Australian dollars. I don't want to spend that much. What is the cheapest USB expansion card I can get that will work with a Rift S, that is available in Australia? I only need 1 port. Thank you for looking.
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Still got tracking issues after install usb pci-e card Anyhelp by Chaarliie
Hello,
I recently bought a vive on saturday and i've been having constant headaches with it trying to get it to work on my PC. My motherboard is a asus z170-a and googling this I found posts on this sub saying that asus boards are having issues with the vive. After trying to play some games on the vive plugged into either the motherboards usb 2.0 / 3.0 I would lose tracking after a couple of minutes of play and have to unplug and replug them back in.
So after doing I decided to buy an USB pci-e card (Link) aftering installing it my vive ran fine for about 15 mins before the same issues started coming up again.
What should I do?
	
	
	
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Gotcha.
Will this due ?
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ I believe is the correct model.
That one was gonna take way too long
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
When the Rift was at $399usd it was still slightly cheaper (depending on how bad your USB situation is and if/how far you want to extend various things of course), and it's now dropped to $349. $349(Rift)+$59(third sensor with extension)=$408usd, the standard rec USB card is $23 on Amazon, bringing the total up to $431, add 6ft HMD extensions and another sensor extension might get you up to $460. For most people I think the Rift setup would be cheaper, though by how much depends on on each setup, whether you consider the $100usd Vive DAS necessary, and where you are (in NZ Rift+third sensor is $673nzd versus $999 for the Vive, ~$150usd cheaper)
An easy and pretty cheap fix is to get the card linked below. It's one that is recommended on the Oculus site, and I used it on my Z68 board and it passed the checker, which the on-board wouldn't.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459090726&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3.0+card
Yes, I know. This is the one I'll be getting, as it is officially recommended by Oculus and it's pretty cheap.
I purchased this on Amazon yesterday and it just arrived a few hours ago. It was exactly what I needed! Now I have all 3x sensors including my Rift running on USB 3.0 without any warnings or issues!
Edit: And the best part, it doesn't require external power so my build still looks clean. My previous card was a dud so I requested a refund and bought Just Fab's instead.
Thanks, this was extremely helpful. Probably going to pick up this one when I get a little extra cash. Car just went into the shop and..... it's not cheap.
IF you've got a blower fan that exhausts directly outside, you should be fine. If you've got an open air fan that exhausts back into your case, you should look into getting your case's airflow up.
In either case, I think you're over-estimating how long a USB expansion card is.
2 external USB3 ports + header for 2 more USB 3 ports, external, front panel or internal
4 external USB3 ports
PCIe 1x cards are short
EDIT: Version without external power:
2 external USB3 ports + header for 2 more USB 3 ports, external, front panel or internal
4 external USB3 ports
They do that by requesting extra power from the PCIe bus by saying they are full-height cards.
An additional PCI-E USB3.0 card would be $24, so not much in any case.
Hmm that’s a really old board. Does it even have usb 3 ports? If not, buy a supported usb 3 card like http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Does it have USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard? You can usually use those for additional ports. Another option is to buy a usb 3.0 PCIe expansion card for more ports.
Like this: 4 Port USB 3.0 PCIe card
then I recommend getting the better card this one https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
If bandwidth is an issue related to mobo age or driver related conflicts, you can basically get one of these. 4 ports, each with their own dedicated controller. It's total overkill, but you'd get your headset and 3 sensors covered.
Make sure you can handle the USB bandwidth for 3+ cameras. If you do have issues with USB bandwidth I highly recommend the Startech card
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
EDIT: Get some anti fatigue mats. It helps with long play sessions.
I'm sure by now the Amazon guy is tired of driving all the way out to my house to drop off a cable every couple of days.
I used this PCIe USB expansion card from Startech. I had bought this card for my CV1, which was pretty much the only card that would let my headset and 3 sensors play "nice" with my PC. It's a total overkill solution you absolutely do not need for the Link, but I have it, I'm stuck with it, so I may as well use it and report that it works.
What I meant was that I have a PCI-E card that has a dedicated channel for each USB port but I still get that problem
So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.
However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.
Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.
You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.
For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.
For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).
These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.
You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!
It's definitely your USB bandwidth. I've had a wealth of tracking jumps, hiccups and losses over the last 2 years, and it was all 100% fixed by getting the recommended 4 port PCI card (NOT the Inateck card):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/
They key here is that each USB port has its own individual channel. Most other cards and motherboards use shared USB channels.
Most motherboards only come with 1 or 2 USB host controllers. It would help if you posted your model of motherboard.
Or, just buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This card should work! It has 4 USB 3.0 ports with four independent channels LP/SATA power. Why its not working on this MB? The drivers are default Windows 10 drivers. Is it because the PCI slots are not fast enough?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like that because it makes tracking buttery smooth, you can have all 3 sensors on 3.0, and it frees up your motherboard usb ports.
I use these extension cables and USB card. I've never had a poor tracking message since I installed my Rift. OVR_Server is low single digits CPU usage.
Intel i7 3.50Ghz 4 core, 16GB RAM, Nvidia 1060 3GB graphics card.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
FWIW, I am using StarTech PCIE card with 4 channels and it is working fine for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/
​
In my previous build, I had the Inatek card and I had some occasional issues, so I made sure that my 3 sensors are plugged into different USB controllers - one on the Inatek card and the other two on mobo ports, worked fine after that.
Two possibilities: Your USB controllers don't have the bandwidth to cope with all the devices you have plugged into them OR the motherboard isn't supplying enough power (especially if you are using extensions). Are all sensors recognized in Device Manager? How many USB controllers does your motherboard have? You want to keep to a max of two cameras per controller.
​
I've had this and many other problems on a z68 and z370 board. If you have a PCIex4 (or x8) slot open on the motherboard, the Startech PCIex4 USB 3.0 card is something you should look into. It has it's own wacky issues, like BIOS dropping a controller (or two) when you shutdown/power up your computer, but it's about the best solution I've seen for those who venture into Oculus unsupportedville with 4 cameras. It also has LP4 and SATA power input for more reliable power delivery.
I have the quad bus 4-port one from Startech, which might be the $70 one you are talking about. It works.. ish. I still have randomly disconnected sensors sometimes.
ahahahahaha !!
Joking aside though. Certainly when talking about Rift, its not necessarily the number of ports that is the most important consideration but the number of USB controllers. Doesn't matter of you have 6x USB 3.0 ports and 6x USB 2.0 ports if your motherboard has only 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 2.0 Controller.
My Thrustmaster 16000 FCS HOTAS takes 2x USB 2.0
My Logitech G920 Wheel and Pedals take 1x USB 2.0
My 4x Rift Sensors take 4x USB 3.0
My Corsair Void Wireless Headset takes 1x USB 2.0
My XBOX controller takes 1x USB 2.0
My Blue Snowball Mic takes 1x USB 2.0
My Keyboard and Mouse take 2x USB 2.0
My Flirc IR sensor for Harmony Ultimate One Remote takes 1x USB 2.0
Thats 13 !!
My Asus Z170-A mobo has 2x USB 2.0 ports, 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 3.1 port but only 1x USB 2.0 Controller, 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 3.1 controller.
Hence why I am also rocking a dedicated Startech 4x Controller 4x USB 3.0 Port PCIe card just for my 4x Rift Sensors and a random 3x USB 2.0 PCIe card dedicated to my HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal Set. Rift is on my Motherboards USB 3.1 port and the rest of the peripherals on the other motherboard ports.
I also have a front 3.25"/5.25" Bay box with Card Readers, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, HDMI and USB charging ports that are connected to the internal USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 Motherboard Headers. This was great for connecting the HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal set and the Rift to the PC at the front of the PC instead of blindly swapping them in and out around the back but has largely been rendered defunct now that I permanently ran some extension cables for the Rift and HOTAS/Wheel/Pedals from the back ports of the PC to elsewhere in the room. Still us the card readers and the USB charging ports for my eCig and Corsair Void Wireless Headset though.
imgur Album of PC Peripherals and Room
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ This is the card I have, it's the quad bus one. I tend to do things by extremes.
On further investigation it seems that Oculus "blacklisted" the Renesas drivers - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/55l3h9/having_usb_30_incompatible_port_issues_try_this/
But, as it works with the Microsoft ones, who cares :)
Oh, one of my 4 sensors was not working as a rabbit had nibbled on the USB3.0 extension cable. Fortunately I had a spare!!
How many USB ports do you currently have available, not including this pcie card, and what type are they?
The Inateck card that is recommended has 4 ports but only one USB controller. If you need to plug in more than two oculus USBs to the card, you should probably go with a card with dual or quad channels.
Here is one with quad channel support:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZEA2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1522193875&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Usb+3.0+pcie
Or rearrange your USB devices to keep oculus USBs on controllers with other devices that don't use much bandwidth.
It doesn't make sense to me either, but I can't use this pricy 4 channel card in passthrough mode for some reason. I ran into other people having the same issue with it as well so abandoned it. Shame as 4 channel USB was nice for my Rift cameras. :-(
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m using this card instead, but even it complains about not having enough resources (in Windows 10) if I plug in more than 2 devices into it. Blech.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ5R7I1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just did some tests today. Mutec 10m [powered] -> UGREEN 10m [not powered] -> primewire hub [powered] -> 2x Rift Sensor USB 3.0 works. I'm a bit surprised myself.
Mutec cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BLPSVFS
UGREEN cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS
PrimeWire hub: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01K7RR3W8
USB Card used for the test: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S
Yeah, at least an SSD is worth it, and maybe some other things. You just need to make sure you're getting the right things so you don't spend too much and they fit in the machine. It can handle Adobe CS apps and it's more cost effective than repairing your MBP or getting a new one.
SSD: get a more current blade style SSD with M.2 port at any capacity. This form factor because you could use this for something else a few years down the road. And it's PCIe, so max speed and faster than on SATA. 128 GB is enough for macOS and the apps, or a bigger one you can/want to afford.
Then an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lycom-DT-120-PCIe-Adapter-Support/dp/B00MYCQP38
The adapter piggybacks the SSD and you hook it up to one of the PCIe slots. There are 4 slots numbered from bottom to top, the GPU will be in the bottom one (Slot 1), use Slot 2 for the SSD, it's faster than Slots 3 and 4 at the top.
RAM: I'd say 16 gigs is enough for this machine. For very large Photoshop files 32 gigs might be helpful, but only marginally. Mac Pros are picky when it comes to RAM, here's some info: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/faq/mac-pro-early-2008-how-to-install-ram-backwards-compatible-with-older-memory.html
https://support.apple.com/HT205043
CPU: one of the CPUs in the Wiki link above. But I wouldn't do it. Could add more performance but you need the know how and tools to flash the Mac Pro firmware, otherwise the machine wouldn't recognize the new CPU.
GPU: another potential minefield: http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/frequently-asked-questions-about-nvidia-pc-non-efi-graphics-cards.1440150/
Requires flashing of the GPU as well so they work and you never know if it's surviving an update to macOS.
But Apple officially sold the ATI Radeon HD 5770 and 5780 as upgrade kits for the Mac Pros. These are officially supported. Funny enough Googling these cards I mostly see hits about the older Mac Pros. Saw this link: http://www.apple.com/shop/question/answers/readonly/will-early-2008-mac-pro-owners-be-able-to-use-the-ati-radeon-hd-5770/QDDDH2T2JF44XHHAD
Now finding a 5770 or 5780 on eBay is definitely worth it, will add a substantial amount of performance.
Or any other card that's officially Mac compatible, like the GeForce GTX 950 or 960 and Nvidia's web drivers (install drivers before adding the card!).
I/O: something to consider, adding USB 3.0 is worth it. This card is officially Mac Pro compatible: https://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC/
Btw, here's a patch to get Sierra onto the machine: http://dosdude1.com/sierrapatch.html
Not too much to tell!
How to make a Fusion drive.
AC Wireless / BT 4.0 Upgrade
USB3 card
That's about it! I grabbed the maximum amount of RAM from decommissioned servers at work, and loaded it up with hard drives.
A USB installer for High Sierra is asking you for a firmware update? Honestly I am not sure what might be wrong there, I would start googling for anything similar. Dumb question: have you plugged the mac pro into ethernet so it can download the update?
Google results:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/10-13-6-installer-wont-let-me-do-firmware-update.2127317/
Its really odd given that you were already running High Sierra. Make sure you aren't using the new file format on the boot drive, that might help.
>If there are no bootscreens then how are we supposed to upgrade the damn thing to Mojave? I thought that we could start the upgrade process with the GT120 and then proceed afterwards with a Metal card.
Yes, thats the rub with Mojave. You'll only get boot screens with a card that is both metal enabled and a mac edition card. Here is the list. Otherwise you can do the update with any other metal enabled GPU but you'll have to do it blind and you'll never have bootscreens again. This is why sticking to High Sierra is a safer option.
Also: This is the USB 3.0 card I have. I had some troubles with it on Windows 10 but manually installed a driver and it seems to be fine now.
My research has gotten me pointed at this:
http://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC
It appears quite affordable, 4 port, no extra power, should work without drivers on mac side and fine under bootcamp... seems like a solid option. Anyone have any opinions on this or any other cards?
Alternatively http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRGCV2G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00I027GPC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0G5YNS92XRZZA2KJ0YE3#Ask seems functional for people, but there's less feedback and twice the cost so...
Honestly, this one is easier to follow! As for USB, I'm pretty sure this is the card I'm using right now.. Sonnet also has a few PCIe products specifically designed for the Mac Pro, but they are more expensive.
so here's my self follow up. i tried this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C?keywords=inateck%20usb%20pcie&qid=1450042134&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6
but no workee. since i had free shipping and returns i figured it was worth a shot b/c it's 11 bucks less than the same companies mac-compatible card and from what i could tell used the same controller, etc.
now i'm ordering this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
as it's well reviewed by hackintosh people. if that doesn't work i'll try the high point, but i got burned by one of their RAID cards I bought years ago and I'm still bitter (and a hardhead)
Thats expensive for 2.4 GH/s, thats exactly what im getting on the antminer U2 that I paid under 20 bucks for. I got mine used from amazon. Here is a link amazon I was going to grab a rock miner R-box amazon they go for 70.00 bucks new on amazon and youll get 32-37 GH/s im sure you might be able to find them cheaper, but I was also looking on craigslist and came across some good deals on the older antminer s1 for under 200.00 bucks and it will crank out 200 GH/s. Of course I also found a kcminer neptune, the guy wants 5000.00 for it, and it cranks out a minimum of 3 TH/s. Im just not brave enough nor do I know enough if that is a wise investment. Like you said 200.00 is more palatable, its not going to make or break you.
Mining seems like a great idea, and it's a fun hobby, but it's pretty tricky in effect. Timing is everything, and you have even more uncertainty than just by buying bitcoin and holding.
If you wanted to see what it was about, you could buy a used 2.4 Gh USB miner from Amazon or something. You basically won't make any money aside from a few thousandths of a bitcoin because they're underpowered, but it'll cost you under $30 and you'll get a chance, if you set it up on your own, to start learning about what's going on when you mine. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408408030&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+gh+miner+bitcoin
Also, /r/bitcoinmining is a good place to start on mining info.
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395810383&sr=8-1&keywords=antminer+u2 you're welcome :D
edit: I am not being payed to advertise/market any products nor am I affiliated with BITMAIN or Amazon. I just thought it was too good not to share.
One of these - http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6 will probably produce more bitcoins that all those servers together while using much less power (cpu's running at 100% pull more power than when idling)
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=merchant&ie=UTF8&qid=1397577239&sr=1-1&keywords=bitcoin
opinion on these?
I correct myself, *2 GH/s I will be getting two if this is right.
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396769955&sr=1-3&keywords=asic+miner
Ohh, jeez, you can buy the Bitmain Antminer here.
The smaller ones in between the Antminers are these, but for $10 more, you can get like 5 times the Mh/s with the Antminers. The Antminers are a lot more worth it; I just wanted something to fill in my empty spaces.
The cooling fan is this, but I've got a bigger clamp fan blowing on it so the whole rig doesn't burn my house down. Though, I haven't had much problem with heat. The cooling fan does enough to keep them cool, but when I had no cooling fan, it was hot enough to burn my skin and I found that out the hard way. The clamp fan is just there for insurance.
The Pi is gonna need a 4GB SD card, so make sure you've got a reader for that.
And you're correct. This is the least profitable thing you can do, my setup cost me roughly $150 a month and a half ago, and they've made me $2 worth of Bitcoins (.004 Bitcoin) that haven't even been transferred to me because Slush's pool send threshold is .01 Bitcoin. Though, the whole setup barely puts any strain on my electric bill.
It was fun putting it together and making it work, and it's a great conversation starter, but it has yet to prove me any monetary worth at all. Maybe I can buy something cheap on Overstock in a couple months, or I'll get really really lucky and mine a block.
> Not sure if want , might be fun to have one or two run off of my Raspberry PI, but the drivers might be windows only.
Yes, it can be used with a raspberry pi set up. Might grab one just to try it out and use that fancy affiliate link
A simple install mining app would be multiminerapp.com ... it has a user interface and what now. I use this with my Antminer U2 USB based miners.
I started out with the U2 USB miner. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1421524190&sr=8-1&keywords=antminer+u2&condition=used
A newer model would be the U3 miner http://www.amazon.com/Bitmain-Antminer-Bitcoin-Miner-Domestic/dp/B00OQSXMA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421524228&sr=8-1&keywords=antminer+u3
You might be able to make your money back over time with the U3 miner if you dont take electricity into account (which im assuming your not when u use the word 'hobby')
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426891597&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+asic
Enjoy!
I recently started with [one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITD5NV6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). For $25 bucks or so you'll get 2 Ghps.
I'm personally mining using the pool BitMinter. They have their own software too so its super easy.
It's because your USB controller chipset is not fully supported. I had to purchase a new USB PCI-E 1x card because I had to manually sync my controllers every time. I read on the wiki cards with the Fresco chipset work well, I went with this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
https://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1469852020&sr=8-7&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0+card
That's the card I used, but the reasons I bought it probably don't apply to most desktop systems (I needed a card that did not require an additional molex for power and was low-profile compatible, as this was originally in a Sun T5120)
> ASUS HB1M-A
this will do
If you have an extra sata power in your case I'd go with one that uses power like this one. Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 (5 Ports) PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Red (KT5001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.zj5CbJTGHPF7.
If not
Inateck 2-Port PCI-E USB 3.0 Express Card, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter with Internal USB 3.0 20-PIN Connector - Expand Another Two USB 3.0 Ports - No Additional Power Connection Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3Aj5CbHHMB2KM
is a good choice.
Inateck makes this one I have the previous model in my desktop so i'm going to give it a try for science!
https://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64
pci-e x1? b/c what you linked was legacy pci. https://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492060293&sr=1-7&keywords=usb+3+pcie
You have a few options:
I have successfully passed through one of these cards to a hackintosh running on a virtual machine:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64
It features a fresco fl1100 controller which has native macos drivers in at least high sierra and mojave.
I'm using an Inateck KT4006 (Fresco Logic FL1100) and it was plug-and-play on Sierra and High Sierra, I didn't have to change anything to have it work. I'm not even using USBInjectAll.kext.
Inateck KT4006 2-Port PCI-E USB 3.0 Express Card
This is working perfectly OOB in macOS Sierra 10.12.6
For the vive, add a card like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2H64/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or another one that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100SX chip. The built-in usb3 chips on almost all motherboards are usually crap.
For the CPU cooler, you may consider cooling on air instead of the AIO liquid cooler. A nice Noctua HSF will run about the same, provide the same performance, and be quieter.
Are you talking about the USB-C port? No. Don't have any solution yet. However, these usb header converters and pcie usb 3.0 expansion cards do exist. Haven't bought yet, but, may do during holiday deals.
I can tell you that this is exactly the card that I use and it works great.
This one:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Expansion-Controller-Additional-Connection/dp/B00JFR2I2C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
PCI-E to USB 3.0
PCI to USB 2.0
PCI is not the same as PCI-E, choose the correct one.
USB 2 ... ugh. It already takes days to copy 30TB at USB 3 speeds.
May I suggest an upgrade?
I use this Inateck on my HTPC. It was plug&play with Mint 17.
Ehh I needed bluetooth anyway and was running low on USB ports.
If anyone has a spare PCIe port I got this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked plug and play for me, no power cable connection needed.
You are going to be disappointed if you don't use the PCIE slot. This card works well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C
FYI, I just tried this unpowered card from Inateck: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C
And it passes the compat check!
To be sure the software running from one drive can't read the other drive, encryption is sufficient. To be sure it can't destroy data you'd need to switch it off physically with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Optimized-Controls-Provide-Longevity/dp/B00TZR3E70
For those who stumble upon this thread and need a solution. After a long search I found this. It's a SATA power switch module that installs in the 5.25" bay in your case. The reviews mention that the power voltage drops when turning on new drives with the PC is still on causing a BSOD. So if you're using this to turn on/off backup drives , connect the PC's OS drive to a separate power line and use this module to connect only the backup drives. If you're going to use this to boot one out of several drives then you shouldn't have any problems like that.
It's not unreasonable... although I would first try and see if you can get your current setup working with the new video card... it should be pretty straight forward and if your current build can work with the new hardware it'll make switching back and forth much easier... even if your new vanilla install goes perfectly right away, a clean install can take awhile to get everything back up and running the way you like.
Another suggestion (if you have 5.25" drive bay) is to get a drive switcher this will allow you to physically disconnect power to all your drives... so you just shutdown, turn off the ones on your current system, turn on the new one to tinker, and then boot up again. Your known working system is safe. (I also use it for OS upgrades or if I wanted to boot Windows)
Some people will say put both OS on the same SSD, however if something ever happens to that SSD then you have a completely unbootable system. Due to that, I often recommend a separate disk for each OS.
If you go through old posts you will see that many people who try to do Windows/Linux dual boot have had issues with trying to use Grub as the boot loader and this is why [I usually link people here](
https://www.reddit.com/r/linux4noobs/comments/3msid3/duel_booting_linux_and_windows_separate_drives/) which is the basic setup for individual drives on each OS and using the Windows boot loader.
EDIT: These directions are the same that I use for every dual boot setup I do, and currently running 3 Windows installs (2xWin10, 1xWin7), 1 Ubuntu, and a "shared" data drive. Have done so many setups like this for many people and haven't seen any problems crop up.
In your particular case, if you do not want each drive to see each other then you may want to use a HDD switcher similar to this , unfortunately I couldn't locate one specific to SSD.
If you go with each OS on a separate drive you might want to consider a HDD switch. It won't be absolutely necessary as you can always choose your boot device during initial power up. The benefits of a switch will be that you won't need to have all your drives constantly powered on and each OS will be completely isolated and not try to mount the other OS drives.
Amazon link
Heads up if you ever have the issue, but I switched out the Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 with generic Windows drivers for the slightly cheaper Startech version with generic Windows drivers and now all my sensors and headset show up as USB 3.0.
Not sure if this card is on the Oculus whitelist, but it has 4 controllers, 450MB/s per USB slot (PCIe x4).
If my two 3.0 controllers aren't enough this would be the next step. I won't settle with USB 2.0 after buying five active USB 3.0 extension cables.
Here's a pic of the inside of my build by the way - http://i.picpar.com/9XMc.png
For day to day use I have the hackintosh running on the RX 560, usually the Vega is used for Windows gaming. WX 7100 is my host GPU for Linux. The top PCI card is a Sonnet USB card, which supports passthrough of individual USB controllers, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/
Along with the 1950X I have 64GB RAM and around 20TB of storage for my file server.
I had a hellish time with Startech crap and my X299 chipset, spent ungodly amount of time before selling the card. I would advice against both of Startech 3.0 and 3.1 multi port / multi controller cards (PEXUSB3S44V/PEXUSB314A2V). (at least from the upgrade path point of view, they did work on my prior x99 platform) . If I were you I would go with Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 PCIe card. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) USB3-PRO-4PM-E.
BTW, I am running four sensors.
If you still want Startech 3.0 four controller card, I have a new one for sale that I got as an RMA from them directly. Send me a PM.
I bought this sonnett alegro which looks to be slightly bigger than the pcie x1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Express-Expansion-Connector-Renesas/dp/B011LZY20G) and it works perfectly, plug and play too with Windows 10.
You mean some thing like a Sata controller card and USB expantion card?
How about this. Decent cheap card with the renesas chipset and powered using Molex.
I ran a couple of these for a while and never had an issue.
I get a lot of mileage out of this usb card.
Rosewill PCI-E to USB 3.0 4-Port PCI Express Expansion Card (PCIe Card), 4 USB 3.0 Ports, Super Speed Up to 5Gbps, with 4 pin Male Molex Power Connect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_3WnPQh1N5gcZn
I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Express-Expansion-Connector-Renesas/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492060393&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.0+pci+card
but the slot is blocked by my graphics card
> So far if I pull the usb that connects to the actual headset out a few millimetres it seems so reconnect, but then moving around in VR will cause it to disconnect and get gray screen. Its driving me crazy, dont actually know what the issue is, but because Ive tried with a brand new USB cable with the same result
It sounds like your usb port is bad. Maybe try installing a new usb 3 pci card?
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Express-Expansion-Connector-Renesas/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494342038&sr=8-2
That's...a lot of cameras. Processing power isn't going to be your main concern - serial bandwidth will be. Namely, USB connections typically only have maybe 3-4 separate buses on your average motherboard. Assuming you plan to run 1080p60 cams (or probably even 720p60/1080p30), you generally can't run more than one camera capture per bus without experiencing lag and dropped frames from the capture.
If you're going to have any quantity of cameras streaming simultaneously, your best bet would be quad capture cards. But you'd still likely need 2 to make this work well and they start at around $700-800 a piece.
You could probably get away with USB connections, but you're still looking at nearly $1000 just for the hardware to accomplish that. You'd need additional USB PCIe cards both due to the limits on quantity of USB ports on most motherboards and due to the fact the capture devices like the Elgato Cam Link are wide and will overlap any adjacent banks of ports, blocking you from inserting two next each other.
I have no experience with this quantity of cameras but I think something like this USB PCIe card has sufficient bandwidth to support four cameras. You would need 2 of them still and also short USB extensions cables because 4 Cam Links can't all fit simultaneously. So you need to be sure your motherboard has 2 additional slots available that can support these.
As for processing power on the computer, this doesn't really sound like a gaming rig so GPU doesn't matter a whole lot apart from rendering stuff on your own screen. For CPU, I don't think you need to go super high end either as a video capture isn't super intensive when you're using something like a Cam Link. If you go the quad capture card route, you likely need to consider power a bit more but it's still not crazy. Any quad core with eight threads or a hex core is likely more than sufficient.
If you also plan to do the stream encoding on this rig, that changes the recommendations considerably.
If you have any open PCIe slots... you could use this
> DDR3 worth it?
It's DDR4
> Would this card have any trouble with 6 - 4k monitors plus a projector?
It should support 4k no problem since you aren't gaming. You would have to get another card for the projector since it only has 6 slots. You could daisy chain, but they also make a 2 and 4 output version.
>(Display Port?)
This is Mini Display Port. With DP you can Daisy Chain Monitors (which would allow you to get that projector in).
> I've heard that workstation class video cards run smoother over the long term; any thoughts
As far as I am aware, this is a workstation class video card.
> However, I do need multiple USB 3.0 slots; at least 8 if it doesn't cost too much more.
You'd need a different motherboard or grab a PCI Card that has them
> What about the future: will there be open slots for a backup hard drive or anything else I might want/need to add?
There is actually plenty of dependability, more so if you up the MoBo. This SSD is actually an M.2, so it takes up none of your SATA slots.
If you have an empty PCI-E slot you could buy a USB card like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011LZY20G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483989497&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pcie+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ml7gwBdpL&ref=plSrch
This way you'll have a separate USB controller just for the vive.
The motherboard isn't going to bottleneck your GPU, even if you had a $70-80 board with an H170 chipset, the GPU would still get PCIe 3x16.
Part of the USB port limitation is the chipset. The Z170 chipset supports up to 14 USB ports, but most folks simply don't need that many ports, so even the high end boards don't have them all. You can always toss in an extra PCIe card and get more ports for $18. You don't need to spend $400-500 on a motherboard to get a good overclock.
Will this card work or should I cancel my order? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011LZY20G
Install a PCIe USB 3.0 board. There have been a lot of reports of on board USB 3.0 chipset incompatibilities.
The one made by Rosewill worked fine for me. You can probably go cheaper though. It sucks, I wish MS would fix it.
Edit: This is what I used. May be cheaper on eBay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know I've been in this situation several times, and earlier this week I ordered a PCI USB 3.0 card to put in my PC. It hasn't arrived yet, but this seems like one of the better solutions over using USB hubs, others may disagree, but I feel like a direct PCI-E connection to my PC will be faster and more reliable than a hub running over USB (plus that uses a USB port).
If you still have a PCI-E slot open, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011LZY20G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title) is cheap and works great.
Heya,
imo there's not that much difference in between boards once you get to X99 -- unlike "normal" consumer grade boards where the variances are sometimes huge.
So I'd say pick a board which you like / has the features you need, and just go with that. If you go with an i7-5820k you don't have to concern yourself with Turbo Boost 3.0, as this is only used by the new X99 CPU's (Broadwell-E).
Be aware though that the Haswell-E boards by ASUS (X99-A instead of X99-A II) had problems booting with non-xHCI conforming devices attached (I believe due to USB handshaking issues with the USB 3.0/3.1 controller), but don't quote me on that. I have that problem personally (X99-Deluxe) when I try and boot with my PS4 controller attached. If I unplug it before booting, everything is fine.
Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in on that. Haven't read anything on the new versions though.
Other than that, Asus offers expansion cards that go into the PCIe slot, should you need/want them later on. That said, you can also get off brand ones from Amazon.com or what have you.
I don't really see why you shouldn't be able to RAID two M.2's on an i7-5820k. Afaik that's all in all 24 lanes that would be used at any given time (x16 by Graphics card + x8 by two M.2's), leaving you with 4 extra. It's debatable if it makes sense to RAID two or more SSDs, but you should be able to if you want to.
> Heya,
> imo there's not that much difference in between boards once you get to X99 -- unlike "normal" consumer grade boards where the variances are sometimes huge.
> So I'd say pick a board which you like / has the features you need, and just go with that. If you go with an i7-5820k you don't have to concern yourself with Turbo Boost 3.0, as this is only used by the new X99 CPU's (Broadwell-E).
> Be aware though that the Haswell-E boards by ASUS (X99-A instead of X99-A II) had problems booting with non-xHCI conforming devices attached (I believe due to USB handshaking issues with the USB 3.0/3.1 controller), but don't quote me on that. I have that problem personally (X99-Deluxe) when I try and boot with my PS4 controller attached. If I unplug it before booting, everything is fine.
> Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in on that. Haven't read anything on the new versions though.
> Other than that, Asus offers expansion cards that go into the PCIe slot, should you need/want them later on. That said, you can also get off brand ones from Amazon.com or what have you.
> I don't really see why you shouldn't be able to RAID two M.2's on an i7-5820k. Afaik that's all in all 24 lanes that would be used at any given time (x16 by Graphics card + x8 by two M.2's), leaving you with 4 extra. It's debatable if it makes sense to RAID two or more SSDs, but you should be able to if you want to.
~ /u/apexbang
This and this are the same thing right? I wanted a black PCB.
I'm just going to pop it in and see what happens. If anything I can return it.
I speak only from what I read. I am not an ~editor.
Approximate numbers, yes - or depending on budget & lanes available, much more.
Kudos to you for getting it. Usually I am called mad, before they rush off and buy a 16 lane intel that precludes nvme raid.
IMO if you google vid edit forums, you will find many do the same. It just hasnt sunk in yet for most tho.
Yes, I hear there are many who could use ~unlimited (512TB) gpu memory/memory address space.
What do you expect from 120GB/s $66 nvmeS & pcie2 ?:) - that's bargain basement, but damn good for the money & frugal use of usually scarce lanes.
A significant bump in write speed can be had by using the same model in 240GB ~$110 form.
~Only TR & Epyc are generous with pcie lanes & allow reasonable freedom for larger arrays. It has 64 pcie3 lanes, native bios bootable raid for up to 7 nvme devices for ~25GB/s read. (see db8haur youtube clip of TR w/ 8x 960 pro raid for 28GB/s using the asus card below (take away = on TR, expect ~linear scaling and little overhead - you get ~straight multiples of the individual drive's rated speeds when you stripe them on TR using pcie 3))
12.8GB/s officially for ddr3 1600, but sounds optimistic -
30-40GB/s sounds right for a good modern ddr4 ryzen, & 40-50GB/s for a TR, but again, don't quote me, check for yourself.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM
A sweet spot imo, is to saturate 16 lanes of pcie2 bandwidth for both read and write, which the above lane thrifty pcie2 bargain rig more than saturates in read (even 3 drives would), and approaches (75%) in write.
If your app works as well~ w/ your gpu set as 8 lane pcie3 as 16 lane pcie3, then you have nothing to gain from faster system dram cache over the nvme raid 0 array.
Its fairly logical that this may be the case - the task usually takes longer to process/render than to load the data, so 8GB/s of data from the system should keep the gpu busy.
NB that your drive selection focus is different.
You dont want size, you want speed, especially the weaker write speed, and cheap cos you want multiples to run in parallel.
Storage is a separate issue.
IMO, it doesnt have to be all things to all men. It is dedicated to writing large chunks of data, fast, and should be formatted optimally for this alone.
All the old saws about risk of raid are rot in this case - its a scratch drive little different to volatile dram, the system fully expects the contents to be lost, & ensures no damage is done by a failure/power outage.
Whatever the array size, it will be huge vs Dram.
A major over riding consideration is the parts dont tell the whole story, which is that hbcc working as intended, should intelligently anticipate reads and prefetch into higher level cache, and delay writes to enhance performance.
Video editing sounds to have eminently predictable data flows to me.
above products links etc:
ASRock Ultra Quad M.2 Card
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M-2-X4-Card-flexibility/dp/B017YUCAXS
https://techadict.com/shop/electronincs/memory/corsair-force-series-mp500-120gb-m-2-nvme-pcie-gen-3-x4-ssd/
get an nvme drive and put it in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
It'll give you the full speed that the 950 pro (which is what I'm using in my Z97 board at the house) can deliver. The downside to this is that you need another one to fully realize the mindblowing speed that thing can send and receive data at.
Even moving to and from a SATA SSD, the nvme drive won't even break a sweat and easily maxes out transfer speeds of anything it's reading/writing to.
this is my favorite thus far:
https://www.amazon.com/UHD400-3840X2160-Samsung-40-Inch-Display/dp/B01CSC2P0K
they also make free sync and Gsync models for 200 more.
So that is for a 2.5" nvme drive also known as U.2. there are drives out there for it but it wont work for a 960 evo. Buying the hyper card is what you are looking for found here: https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485905489&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+hyper+m.2+x4
That does depend on your motherboard though. Latest chipset i have seen work is the Z97 and newer(x99,Z170, Z270, Etc.) you might have to experiment with which slots work properly to boot. Also, Windows 10/8.1 is recommended as anything older will need some ISO driver slip streaming trickery.
If I buy a PCI-E M.2 expansion card like this one, would I run into any issues being able to use this as a boot drive?
> https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
Let me know how this works. I may need one in my toolbox as well.
It didn't look like an m.2 exactly (I figured maybe proprietary), but upon further inspection the spec sheet shows it is a half mini PCI-E slot. It is different from m.2, but still a PCI slot all the same. This adapter might just be able to do what you need it to do as, as far as I can tell, the Vive Wireless Adapter only needs a 1x slot. Seems worth a punt.
Edit: I'm no expert on this, I was not previously aware of the half mini PCI-E. I can't quite tell, but it almost looks like it might be a 1x slot all by itself? If it is, then all you'd need is a 1x extension and you might be able to plug the card in directly. Perhaps he could take the wifi card out and see if that's a standard 1x or if it does require the adapter. Uncharted territory here.
> Alienware X51 r1
I mean if you want to get a little "hacky" you can try something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
With some serious effort (including laptop disassembly) you might be able to swap out the wifi card (if it's mini pcie) for a USB 3 card and run thin cables to bring the ports out through the dvd drive slot...
https://www.startech.com/m/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Cards/2-Port-Mini-PCI-Express-USB-3-Adapter-Card-with-Bracket-Kit~MPEXUSB3S22B
^ It isn't cheap and it's more targeted at SFF PCs, but this is the basic idea.
An even slightly more bizarre solution would be to use a regular pcie usb 3 card with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
Awesome. Hopefully this isn't a windows only thing like saving the memory. I need to get a native USB port on a linux box. https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Superspeed-Connector-Desktops/dp/B01G86538S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=PCI-E+usb+card&qid=1568048318&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRVRLQTJPNDFETk1aJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODg2MDA5MzJUOUVRQkI3ODZBUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA0MjE0MjdaMTM4N0lPQzhJNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Mailiya PCI-E to USB 3.0 4 Port PCI Express Expansion Card (PCIe Card),Superspeed USB 3.0 Card with 15-Pin Power Connector for Desktops,Super Speed Up to 5Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G86538S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aQbEzb6B2T3TD
can't you use a pcie card like this?
Hardware wears out, shit happens. Luckily, your board has 2 USB 3.0 headers, so you can add something like this or like this and work around the issue if you need more ports. I bought the one in the first link for cabling because I hate using the ports on the front of my case, and it's been great for years. I added the second cause I went a little overkill haha.
EDIT: It's also got the added bonus of adding power supply from the PSU instead of through the board chipset, which should take some strain off the chipset if that was related to blowing that one port in the first place.
Just pop this in the 2nd pcie slot and magic you now have 3 extra usb 3.0 ports. You can also spend a bit more and get one with a usb c port
You shouldnt have any issues fitting a 1050 ti in this case. Just get a 1050 ti which doesnt need extra pcie power (most of them) and you will be 100% fine
I've had success using this card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G86538S/ref=psdc_229185_t3_B01AJR9GY4
Mailiya PCI-E to USB 3.0 4 Port PCI Express Expansion Card (PCIe Card),Superspeed USB 3.0 Card with 15-Pin Power Connector for Desktops,Super Speed Up to 5Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G86538S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a.YRCbYDW3TWM
2x USB Hub - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80
PCIe card - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G86538S
2x Extension cable - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK
HDMI cable - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E
HDMI repeater - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS
illustration of my setup.
https://imgur.com/eaziZzB
i have a 5M cable running to each usb hub that is powered that then handles either 2 sensors or a sensor and a headset. obviously im not stretching the distance you are, but i think your major hangup here is going to be that hdmi signal being repeated over such a distance.
also, why two usb 2.0?
I got this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G86538S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - a little while ago .... and it seems to have made things worse. I can't tell. Gettings tons of tracking drops lately, not sure if it's camera position or what. At some point I think I disabled some of the power management on my USBs, but maybe need to go through that again.
Past like, 3 weeks or so, my tracking has been super bad. But was completely fine before that. I just want to play ONE Beatsaber song without a floating saber. Gotta do some more research when I'm less busy with work.
I’m a little late to the party but if you’re still looking for a solution, I found this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
Should work properly I believe.
The cheaper option would be a board with 3 M.2 + 1 M.2 PCIe adaptor
This card allows for 4 M.2 PCIe SSD, doesn't support SATA M.2 and requires PCIe port bifurcation to be supported in x4x4x4x4 to use all of 4 M.2, without bifurcation support it is limited to only 1 M.2 it also requires a x16 PCIe port
If you don't care about $ look for HEDT platform with more PCIe lanes as consumer platform runs out of lanes quickly.
You can get a PCIe card. I have that case and card and I'm able to use usb-c.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LrQJDbZCDDT3S
Yeah, you can buy a quad m.2 NVMe board. It won't work as hardware RAID unless you have a specific motherboard for it, but is there any reason you're looking for 4x NVMe drives?
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
You can plug the USB 3.1. Gen 1 from the Case into the USB 3.2 Gen 1 Connector on the motherboard, as long as the pins line up (the missing pin on the motherboard should be a filled space on the connecter)
For the Type C gen 2 connector, you may need this card (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV)
PCIe to the rescue!
Thanks but thats not exactly what I am looking for.
I need an extender cable for this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/?coliid=I1FU5C24ONU82Y&colid=13TE5E6WBULF5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
On the case front panel is a USB C 3.1 port. The cable going from this port that plugs into the motherboard, well it goes into port that sort of looks like a sata\esata slot on the motherboard. You can see this on this add-on card. Newer motherboards have this slot on them.
My motherboard does not have this slot. So I need the add-on card. The problem is that the existing cable coming from the front panel won't reach the card. I was surprise I can't find an extender cable for this as not all manufactures put everything on the same spot for all motherboards. This is why you usually have all cables come from the the front panel on computer case...well they usually reach all way to the rear of the case.
Fractal did this with headphone, mic, and the USB 2.0 & 3.0 cables. However, with this USB 3.1 C GEN2 cable, it only reaches the front edge of the motherboard. So I need a female to male cable extender for this connector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCFF2vujTv4
This will get you a closer look at what kind of cable extender I need.
Thanks
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/
Is that a Ubit 1 to 4 PCI-E Riser Extender?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3JV1FMRJ9GCIF&psc=1
Well, I ordered this on Amazon for about $17 just in case. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G86538S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll have enough USB 3 for the sensors and headset. I'm probably going to need a USB extender if I want to get a 3rd sensor. Thanks for the replies so far !
Yes you do need 3 USB 3.0 ports. One for the actual headset, and one for each sensor (you should have two sensors to start with) resulting in you needing 3 USB ports.
What I did was buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G86538S/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a card which gives you 4 more USB 3.0 ports on your motherboard, which should be more than enough and free up some space
The PCI-E Riser Extender for Bitcoin\Litecoin\ ETH coin ect Ubit 4 in 1 PCI-E Riser Adapter Board USB3.0 PCI-E Rabbet- Ethereum Mining ETH (4 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073W9KCFC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Theoretically you could shove 20 cards on there as mining doesnt use a lot of bandwidth
Use these https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518566748&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+to+4+usb
That card is a usb 3.0 controller card, it wont work with any pcie risers.
What you may need is more likely this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=pcie+4x+riser&qid=1565113205&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Some sort of update: I believe at this point that the original reason for the death of the initial mainboard (ASUS M4A87TD EVO) was because of over-draw from the PCI-E x1 slot in which I plugged the linked PCI-E extender card.
And I'm thinking this is also the result of instability with the replacement board. So I'm switching to an ASRock BTC board with native x1 slots. There's a reason they require 4-pin molex to power the PCI-E slots, I guess.
Anyone else have experience with this problem? Or these PCI-E extender cards?
my goal right now is to achieve highest machine/$ utilizing virtual machines , to do server>thin client feed efficiently you need hardware acceleration which means a gpu and that makes things complicated ...
im planning to do some experiments i can especially with these miinig stuff there are things like this which if they work would be a really nice solution....
im not an expert on pci lane allocation or pci passthrough but linus was able to get 8 individual cards off of a single pcie slot on his 6 editors 1 cpu system which doesnt line up with stuff ive been reading online on how iommu groups are the limiiting factor on gpu passthrough (maybe because he used acs override idk)...
The PCI-E Riser Extender for Bitcoin\Litecoin\ ETH coin ect Ubit 4 in 1 PCI-E Riser Adapter Board USB3.0 PCI-E Rabbet- Ethereum Mining ETH (4 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073W9KCFC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
There are cards like this, using a switch chip to allow connected multiple cards to a single slot:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073W9KCFC&pd_rd_r=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3&pd_rd_w=MBBQf&pd_rd_wg=XiTha&psc=1&refRID=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3
Then you use the normal risers with it. I have not personally used this card tho.
I plan to buy some of these to expand these old motherboards I been using.
https://imgur.com/a/9yg7b
These old motherboards only allow 1 GPU, but with the adapter below, it can upgrade to 8 GPUs per motherboard.
 
PCI-E Riser Extender
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3JV1FMRJ9GCIF
Yeah, I had an older 4 slot gaming board which I turned into 7 with a PCIe splitter. It also worked on my Z270-A which expanded it to 12 slots. But splitters can be hit or miss, especially with older mobos.
Whatever you do, do NOT order from Cryptomined. Scammed out of $39 for a splitter that I paid for with crypto. Got the run around for months upon months. Should've just ordered through Amazon to begin with, which I just ended up doing.
The wiki links here for a list of appropriate motherboards if you're going to spend money on a new one.
Some other lists:
http://bitcoin.zorinaq.com/many_pcie/
https://forum.getpimp.org/topic/720/list-of-top-known-motherboards-for-multi-gpu-mining
Also, here's an interesting post I saved awhile back about a guy who used to buy a bunch of those cheap enterprise desktops and converted them into 3-4 gpu rigs. I guess this made more sense back when Z270s and mining experts were selling for $300.
yeah i got this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's one of those Ubit ones from amazon. works w/ Windows (make sure to install one GPU at a time) and no-fuss set-up on HiveOS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073W9KCFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527115549&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pci+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&ref=plSrch
I have 6 in total on various rigs running. I also run ubit risers, 170 of them to be exact and have had great luck.
Also I am no way affiliated with ubit just have had a good experience with their stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z
You need a board with PCIe Bifurcation in order to split a 16x slot into running 4x4x4x4 for that card. So if you are someone with such needs, get Threadripper instead of Zen.
Yeah, i wouldn't downgrade.
I was wondering if something like this would work- https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WS33TWWS4NVDRNWKW4H2
Regarding the link to the one that you use - does the fact this it is 4x slow it down?
Hello all,
Specs:
i7 3770k 4.2Ghz stable AIO
Z77 Asus Sabretooth
EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
starting with 2x2TB m.2 cards, going up to 4 eventually. I found this https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ but it seems to rely on CPU RAID -- probably not NUC friendly.
4770k + 1070 is what have on my other PC haha. Great combo those two.
Ok so I/O, the Asus blows the Taichi out of the water. Significantly more USB ports with more USB 3.2 and 3.1.
Taichi does have 3 M.2, but keep in mind, if you use the 3rd (Bottom) M.2 on the Taichi, it will disable the PCIeX16_3 (The third PCI X16).
Both boards support Bifurcation on the PCIX16_2, so you can run a M.2 Adapter. Link: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=asus+hyper+m.2&qid=1571710576&sr=8-1
Unfortunately, the maximum you can run is TWO M.2, even tho the link I showed says it supports 4. This is due to the PCIe Limitation being X8. The card is electrically wired to 16X, and the slot runing X8, means it can only see half the card. In the ASUS Bios, you set PCIX16 to "Raid". This swill split the X8 into X4+X4 which will then see both M.2's on the Adapter Card.
My favorite Brand is Asus. But, they are fairly more expensive with their boards this time around. I switched to a cheaper X570 from Gigabyte because I find Ryzen 3000 doesnt overclock that much, and that Asus andTaichi board are meant for extreme overclocking.
Agree with the 1TB SSD option. But the Asus Z390-A Prime supports NvMe SSD, so why not get an NvMe M.2 PCI-e card and get a 1TB NvMe SSD instead? That will improve the SSD speed by 3-4x. https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z?sa-no-redirect=1
Also I would get 32GB memory if you are doing programming AI
you could try this. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=asc_df_B07NQBQB6Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=320228665853&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16459501263987744377&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010799&hvtargid=pla-659234806310&psc=1
My question is would you even get a performance boost if you exceed what the CPU capable for using?
I have this and this usb adapter.
I typically use my headset with everything plugged into them save for the headset plugged into one of my mobo 2.0 ports and the headset plugged into a mobo 3.0 port.
Plugging the headset into the first usb adapter I linked seems to work fine (not sure about stability). The second adapter still gives me the 7-15 error. I do not use adapters to power either of them, but it is possible the sata to molex adapter will not work (as my card that does not work uses sata power).
That said, it will definitely not work without any power, do the usb ports work for lower powered things?
Also, not sure if it is relevant, but I no longer get the low power usb error message
Hey haha thats kinda funny, I just fixxed it about 30 Minutes ago.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you buy one of these and install it (dont use the driver cd, let windows detect it) it will work again
just plug the headset in there that fixxed it for me
If the cable is fine my best guess is that the USB slot isn't providing enough power. When I replaced my launch Rift S with a newer one (manufactured in August) I noticed that it no longer liked the USB slot I had been using for my launch Rift S.
It'd work fine for a few minutes until something happens that I'm guessing requires more energy and the PC isn't supplying enough and then I lose tracking. For example in Creed VR whenever I got knocked down I'd lose tracking and I'd have to quit the game and restart Oculus Home. That's something that never happened with my launch Rift S.
So to fix that I just bought a USB card and I haven't had issues since:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you do go this route I suggest you make sure to disable USB sleep through device manager, to be safe just disable USB sleep on every USB Root Hub listed. I made the mistake of not disabling the new USB Root Hub that was created when I installed the card and it went to sleep after my first session and it was a nightmare to get it to unsleep, I had to keep uninstalling and reinstalling until the drivers finally worked magically.
Once I got it working again I made sure to disable USB sleep on all the USB root hubs and haven't had any issues since. Do note that Windows Updates sometimes resets your power saving options so after every Windows Update make sure that your USB root hubs are still set to never sleep.
I'm looking to get some more USB 3.0 slots on my computer that will be compatible with the Oculus. I was hoping to just use a USB adapater. I didn't see any mention of the Adapters being incompatible, but I didn't see anyone recommending them anywhere either. This is the only piece of hardware I saw recommended directly from oculus, but I really didn't want to put it in my computer if I didn't have to. Any advice or information is appreciated.
I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/
Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx
I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.
All good mate, i ended up doing some googling around and found some stuff here on the r/oculus wiki page. I ordered on the 14th a 2m usb and hdmi extension for the headset, 5m usb extension for the sensor and 3 wall mounts that i will use velcro 3m stickers with.
Only downside is from amazon and will arrive around 29th Dec.
I also just ordered this USB PCI CARD to make sure that im not putting too many sensors on the main usbs. It might be overkill but i don't want to deal with any tracking issues ever again.
This one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
how much is your overclock? i'm running 4.2, hope that's enough extra power. this 4 usb 3.0 slot pci card should work fine, it has to have an external power supply:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?colid=12S2CYL8IQXY3&coliid=I2NEBWOUFXKREX&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
I assume so.
personally I ordered a PCI-E card
You likely don't have the usb bandwidth to handle two. The c930e is meant to have a larger field of view, idk about focus range. Get https://amzn.to/35eXhbU and it should work.
The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.
Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:
hdmi cable
hdmi repeater
usb 3 cable
inateck usb 3 card
The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.
These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.
Did you buy the correct 4 port Inatek that is linked on their page? It needs to be the Fresco FL1100
chipset.
From your post below, you said you have one sensor plugged into 2.0 (so that one will obviously be 2.0), and then one using the xbox extender and two of the cable matters extenders that you use one with the headset and one with the third sensor correct?
If so, your problem may be the Xbox extender. The xbox extender is only a USB 2.0. You can check by looking into the USB slot. USB 2.0 has just the four pads. But USB 3.0 has the four pads and five extra hidden prongs on the inside.
I have a USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card and my motherboard supports USB 3.0, I found that I can run two PS Move cameras off of the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and two PS Move cameras off of the motherboard, but if I connect all four PS Move cameras to the same thing I have problems.
Right now I have two USB power switchers like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM
one is connected to my motherboard the other is connected to this USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
I also have a DK2 rift tracking camera attached to the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and the bluetooth dongle connected to the motherboard.
BTW I am using the USB power switchers to make sure the cameras and bluetooth turn off.
Here's the model I'm talking about. Thanks for the reply. SATA connection is plugged in, there's a green light coming from the card itself and its seated snugly into the PCI slot.
I'm not seeing a fan header but this shows what they look like. They do make fan controllers that you can buy that can either be manually controlled or software controlled. Something like this will fit in a 3.5 inch drivebay and offers manual control of up to four fans.
No need for 5 controllers. Here, take a look at some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156YBCKG/
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY
Basically all you need is a “PWM Fan Controller Hub”. You connect all the fans to the hub, and the hub (depending on which style/type you get), can either be controlled manually via knobs or interface (usually mounted in a 5.25 bay), or connected to the mobo’s CPU fan header, and can be controlled through specific software. The NZXT hub allows control via software like this.
Buy a couple of splitters or a dedicated fan controller. Some cases have a fan controller built in.
You likely won't find a controller that goes direct wall to controller, you need a transformer of some sort in there so you don't just blow the thing up, hence why most run off a MOLEX or SATA power connector off a PSU. This is the controller I was planning on using: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3&th=1, it uses MOLEX connectors. For that you could adapt a spare 4 pin PCI connector I guess?
As for the splitters: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=3+way+fan+splitter+amazon
You can for the CPU fan, but also use some GPU overclocking software to modify its fan. If you want to control more fans, you can either get a manual fan controller(can use regular fans) or get a PWM splitter(will need all PWM fans) to use the motherboards CPU PWM control to control all PWM fans.
http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-3-Way-Splitter-Single-Connection/dp/B004CLFOK4/
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/
http://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Channel-Multi-Fan-Controller-FPX-001/dp/B00DP9WRZY/
Controlling fan speeds individual is difficult let alone accessible by software unless you've got multiple headers. Closest solutions I've seen are bulky (link below) or using a custom solution like raspberry pi to control speeds by communicating with host computer
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DP9WRZY&pd_rd_r=bbf8ae20-de87-4cb7-b07f-d6014a9257e8&pd_rd_w=J2vra&pd_rd_wg=fUIHz&pf_rd_p=eb968aa8-26af-4aeb-99f6-3d185cf2f412&pf_rd_r=G03AQ34WVWPMF3E14CZV&psc=1&refRID=2CKFCB89WY421M2S9380#
Oldie but a goodie: this Anandtech thread says exhaust is more important. I'd invest in a fan controller - this one looks like it might be decent.
One is connected to
https://www.nzxt.com/product-overview/internal-usb-hub
the other (it´s the one that is detected every time) on an internal connector of
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2OOTQ491D9UML&coliid=ID3YRC6KYF8UZ
It might take a while until I´m able to connect both to the motherboard, because there are quite some cables running around. And it´s no final solution, because the Grid+, the Kraken X62 and the front cable USB, a WLAN dongle and a XBox Wireless controller dongle want to be connected too and there are only 2 headers on the board...
Can't guarantee but I can confirm that this USB card is working with my oculus rift cv1
Inateck KTU3FR-5O2U Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qLqjDbNYEYB3W
Works perfectly with the automatically downloaded Windows 10 drivers (had issues when I tried to use the manufacturer's own)
The Oculus website has a recommendation here (https://support.oculus.com/help/oculus/1175747242441772/?ref=hc_fnav) for a potential add-on PCI-E USB 3.0 card (available on Amazon.com here: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0).
(Whoops - didn't notice that the card is reading as out of stock.)
Yours looks similar to my problem. Mine is more subtle. The rift worked flawlessly for a few days and then this small tremor just appeared and it is always there. It got worse after the most recent update. Tracking can be really touchy as well. Contacted Oculus. We ruled out all the obvious things (is the sensor film off etc.), and the next step they recommended is to try the USB 3.0 expansion port that I see mentioned around here (https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0). It's possible I guess. Some of my USB 3.0 ports never recognize the Rift, and when I use a couple of the other ones, the Rift often shows up as being 2.0. Hoping that is the problem. All things aside, I love this thing so am hoping to get this smoothed out. It can be frustrating finding info on this.
Thanks! I appreciate your reply. The PCIe to USB extension I was referring to was something like this.
Couldn't you get one from Germany for example? https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-Expresskarte-20-Pin-Stecker-Connector-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467123938&sr=8-1&keywords=KTU3FR-5O2U
Any Inateck ones are supposed to do the trick from what I've read, like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XctBxbNEB7CGZ
Try getting a USB card. A lot of motherboards hate Oculus hardware, as it overloads the USB ports. I got this one and it works amazing: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2CFFA83M8UBWH&keywords=usb+card+pci-e&qid=1562605867&s=gateway&sprefix=USB+card+PC%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1
Do you have a lot of USB devices plugged in? Might be pushing power limits. Try to unplug every USB except for the stick and restart. Does the stick still experience the same issue? If not, then it's time to consider this or this.
You have the necessary amount of usb 3 ports (and you should have some USB 2 ports around the back of your computer), if ports are a concern you could use the hub to split between your keyboard and the xbox controller (do not use the hub on the Rift itself!)
You could also install a PCI-E expansion card to your pc to provide more USB 3 ports such as this one that Oculus links to from their help page: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
I’ve used [this one](Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JfQ.BbX8YEN77) without issue in my Win 10 Gaming VM and also natively recognized in my macOS VM. There is a 4 port version as well.
Something like this should do the trick. You'll specifically need to look at the controller (while Inatek is the part OEM, the controller has to be supported). Granted, this is all based on the assumption that this is a usb power / compatibility issue and not something else - don't want to send you down a rabbit hole. It is of course possible that this is PSU, software, or even issues with the Rift. Heaney's list is super basic, but worth a final check before you go to extremes.
You have room for a PCIe card?
https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=7+port+pcie&qid=1558542239&s=gateway&sr=8-3
These things are super clean rather than a dongle that hangs off the back.
https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1558542406&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Otherwise 2 of those are likely your best bet
Windows 7 doesn't support USB 3.0 natively, your motherboard manufacturer would have to release them.
Most new motherboards (such as 8th and 9th gen Intel) won't release these USB 3.0 drivers for Windows 7 sadly. If that's the case, you have to go through annoying shit such as buying this and simply can't use your motherboard USBs ever.
Windows 8.1 does support USB 3.0 natively, if you still will prefer that over 10. I got lucky, I got the last Intel CPUs that released USB 3.0 drivers for Windows 7 (Kaby Lake), although not that lucky, since they don't have the best performance, I'm likely going to be upgrading my CPU in the future, but then I can't use Windows 7, hard decisions. :(
Would this card off of amazon work? https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Inateck+card+usb+3.0&qid=1558667080&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Would i just need one of these puppies?
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA