Best power drills according to redditors

We found 512 Reddit comments discussing the best power drills. We ranked the 245 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Power core drills
Power right angle drills
Power screw guns
Power demolition drills & hammers
Power drill drivers

Top Reddit comments about Power Drills:

u/shiftdown · 62 pointsr/AskMenOver30

I really love these bedsheets found on amazon.

Dewalt cordless drills are on sale right now.

I've had these dress belts for a couple years and really like them.

This is the best thermos I've ever had. Use it daily.

u/wfaulk · 28 pointsr/funny

I've heard a lot of people say that, and I won't deny it. But even as critical as I am of cheap manufacturing in China, I can't afford $270 for a drill when I can get another quality drill for $90. 3x the price just isn't doable, at least for an amateur.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 17 pointsr/sysadmin

My alarm bells are going off in my head.
Sounds like wrong screws, or low-quality racks.

So here is the thing about cordless drills:

You can go cheap, or you can go quality.

Eventually, somebody is going to drop it.
High quality drills usually survive a fall or three.
Cheap ones usually survive a fall or two.

The new fancy Li-Ion batteries should last 5+ years.
But the older technology ones all need new batteries about every 4-5 years.
The cost of a single Dewalt replacement battery is about the cost of a new Harbor Freight drill + battery combo.

Observation 2:

A nice, brawny drill loves to overtighten screws. If it has a torque clutch, use it to minimize over-tightening.
On that same note, all that power loves to strip out screws.
Lastly, all that power makes for a moderatly heavy tool, which leads to faster fatigue, which can cause poor alignment, which tends to cause more screw stripping.

I'd rather buy you an awesome set of proper screw drivers, with nice long necks to get around cable managers and rails.

If you really want power, I'd lean towards a powered screwdriver rather than a proper drill.
Or if you really, really want a drill, I'd be looking at lower-power, lighter weight units with a flashlight built-in.


I'm not buying this for you:

Too big. Too heavy. Too much power. All I see is stripped screws everywhere.

u/MediocreFisherman · 15 pointsr/IAmA

I love going to the flea market on the weekend. I live near Cincinnati and frequently hit up Caesars Creek and Pirates Cove (used to be Turtle Creek). It seems Caesar's has really died since they had a fire, everyone moved over to Pirates Cove.

It doesn't look like you have a lot of inside space. But maybe you can answer this for me. I often notice that a lot of inside vendors at the flea markets I go to are closed. Since the place is only open 2 days a week, this seems kind of odd. I mean, if you only have 2 days a week to make money, wouldn't you want to be there? But more often than not I'll walk through at 9 am and at least 1/4 of the vendors aren't open and its frequently the same ones every time. It seems to me if I ran a flea market I'd have a requirement that they need to be open, especially since people are paying to come in and shop ($2 for parking). Its only making the flea market management look bad when 1/4 of their vendors aren't there. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to buy something but the owner isn't there to sell it to me. Whats the deal with this?

How do you manage vendors that just sell...crap? I see a lot of vendors that have been in the same spot for years that never have customers because what they sell is either over priced or just stuff no one wants. Do you only care as long as the vendor is paying their fees? Or, do you look to manage to ensure that you have quality vendors that people actually want to come in and shop with, rather than people just taking up space?

What about religious vendors? There is a booth at both Caesars and Pirates cove that has Jehova's witnesses accosting you as you walk by. Annoys the crap out of me.

How do you handle vendor / customer disputes? Eg - last year I was looking to buy a dewalt impact driver. There are several used power tool vendors at the flea markets I go to. One guy was asking $125 for a used dewalt impact, battery and charger. I said look dude, they go for cheaper than that new online - $92 for a new unit with a carrying case. I offered $75, which he begrudgingly accepted. Later, I found him at another tool vendors booth pointing me out and warning them that I was making up prices online (uh...I showed him the amazon listing on my phone) in order to haggle people down. I just about went and talked to management, as this seemed unnecessarily childish. He didn't need to accept my offer, and he certainly didn't need to tell others I was some kind of scammer.

u/AnnaPea · 14 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.

u/JackSauer1 · 12 pointsr/Tools

Get a Bosch Bulldog. They are typically $150-200. I am an electrician and we have one on every truck.

u/steinauf85 · 11 pointsr/Tools

$228 on Amazon

Brushless (more efficient) + compact but longer life batteries. Combines to a relatively lightweight but longlasting cordless drill

Whatever brand you go with, make sure it's a lithium ion battery.

u/Lulxii · 11 pointsr/askcarguys

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!


When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

  • 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  • Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  • Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  • Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  • Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  • Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  • Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  • Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  • Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  • Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  • My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  • JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  • Jack to actually get your car up.
  • Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  • PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  • OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.

    And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.


    I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.


    To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.
u/Nurum · 10 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Go buy a Bosch Bulldog hammer drill. It has a setting to turn it into a handheld jackhammer, then just get a nice wide chisel for it. It will take it up nice and quick, and in the end you will have a cool tool that you will find tons of uses for.

u/kindall · 10 pointsr/BuyItForLife

If you are looking for a truly BIFL cordless screwdriver, I highly recommend Hitachi's. Yes, they make tools. Yes, they are good. It comes with two lithium ion batteries and an external charger so you can always have a fresh battery, and the charge lasts a long time. It has a lot of power coupled with the invaluable feature of an adjustable clutch, to help you avoid stripping the heads of your screws. I have had mine for at least five years, use it a fair bit around the house, and it still works perfectly. I see they have a new model now but it looks to be even better than the one I have.

u/FireReadyAim · 10 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Let's see here.

drill - $89.00

bits - $14.99

grommet kit with punch - $14.99

So your solution costs $118.98

12 binder clips - $4.83

u/buttgunner88 · 10 pointsr/ImGoingToHellForThis
u/ebop · 10 pointsr/DIY

He answered the more reasonable and economical solution to your question. The other answer is, yes, you can find a product like that but it's $270 with poor reviews. You could buy 5 of these corded drills for less than the price of the adaptor. You could also buy 5 double packs of batteries for less money.

You have no reason to be rude to someone answering your question when they present the best option to your problem. (Particularly when your question can be answered by five minutes online searching.)

u/jordanwilson23 · 9 pointsr/DIY

The prices for batteries are high because they can be. I have sold power tools for a few years and their are actually pretty good margins in them. Especially the bare tools. That is why, if a user needs a new battery, their best bet is to buy a kit to keep the batteries and part them out. For example, a Makita BL1830 Battery is 100.00 at Home Depot but you can get an LXT211 for 251-279 when on sale. It comes with 2 batteries, a charger, drill, and impact. All of which are sold for over 100.00 by themselves. This is why you see so many bare tools on Ebay for good prices. People buy the kits and break them down. There is so much profit in tools that you could purchase either of the kits below, break the parts down, and make pretty good money selling them on Ebay:


Amazon will sometimes sell the 2nd kit for $89.00. DW9116 Charger -$15 DC9098 Batteries - $20 DC970 Drill - $34. If you search these on Ebay, you will see a couple sellers doing this. Hell, you could even break the items down and sell them on Amazon.

u/yevinorion · 8 pointsr/Tools

Man I know the budget is limited, but Ni Cad is not the way to go!

You have a few options around that price. I would stick to a decent brand (DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita) and maybe look at a 12V to stay in that $100 range. Although maybe you can find a Black Friday deal on an 18V, but a 12V should be enough to get started and do basic DYI stuff around the house.

Here are a few options:

Bosch 12V Drill

DeWalt 20VMax Brushed or Brushless for about $20 more

Makita 12V Drill and Impact Driver Combo

Makita 18V Hammer Drill

Also Amazon is having a special on Makita, DeWalt and Bosch tools where any tool $100 or more gets $25 off.

u/jayrady · 7 pointsr/IowaCity

Be the change you want to see in the world.

BLACK+DECKER LDX120C 20V MAX Lithium Ion Drill/Driver

u/The0ldMan · 7 pointsr/Tools

I highly recommend the brushless 20 volt kit. It's more of a premium drill and might be excessive for your needs. I'm a contractor and I just recently upgraded to this for my every day drill and I love it. The light is perfect, the belt clip is nice for climbing ladders with it, it's lights and much slimmer than the old 18v models. The battery gauge is cool too. My only complaint is there's no where to store bits on it without buying an add-on bit clip.

u/iTzGavin96 · 6 pointsr/gundeals

You can complete a polymer 80 with a file from walmart for like $6 and a power drill. Polymer 80's come with the drill bits you need. I did not use a dremel for my p80. While a vice might not be required, it would certainly help to hold everything steady. You could probably complete this with a 20$ black and decker drill too.

u/digifork · 6 pointsr/specializedtools

I use this flexible shaft bit. You are not going to use it to drill through bricks, but I found it extremely useful when drilling holes to install blinds.

u/YouHaveShitTaste · 6 pointsr/aww

It's that cheap for a fucking reason. That's not a "drill" that's an electronic screwdriver. Ain't gonna get shit done with that piece of trash.

If you want light, cordless, and not bulky, but still worth a damn, get shit like this:

u/GoldenShadowGS · 5 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

There are Impact drivers or normal drills with adjustable clutches that slip when the torque is too high. I use them for work all the time.

u/AlicSkywalker · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:

This'll probably work too:

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast:

u/FrankyFe · 5 pointsr/Tools

Yes, Allen/hex keys are retarded to use. You can use a powered screwdriver and a nice one is this:

Add bits, start with the little 1" ones that you use a holder with:

Get a bit ratchet for real tight spots:

Also a tip: with particle board furniture like Ikea's, use a bit of wood glue in the screw hole and on the screw before insertion. It makes it go in easier ;) and also keeps the particles from breaking apart. It doesn't form a permanent bond so disassembly is still easy.

u/OddJackdaw · 5 pointsr/ThingsCutInHalfPorn

You're getting downvoted, but you are probably right. The batteries that were most commonly marketed as 18V were substantially heavier.

The difference is the battery tech: The 18V one would be NiCad, the 20V one is LiPo. LiPo's have much greater power density, so they use a smaller battery to get the same capacity. The also hold a charge considerably longer between uses and don't have the issues with memory.

You could also get a heavier battery by increasing capacity (more use between charges). That's probably not the case here since they would likely both be 20V if they were LiPos, but it's possible.

Edit: Err... LiIon, not LiPo.

u/PhilipTheDeacan · 4 pointsr/Tools

DEWALT DCD771C2 20V MAX Lithium-Ion Compact Drill/Driver Kit

Could check local hardware stores as well they sometimes have deals on dewalt or Milwaukee power tools. Those are the brands I tend to stick with, not saying others aren't good but they're tried and true for me.

u/JLT303 · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/cromag5150 · 4 pointsr/Luthier

Stew Mac's tang nippers are really just a slightly modified hand nibbler tool with an astronomical markup. The older model was a modified Klein #760113 nibbler with a half moon groove for the fretwire cut out just before the blade. Klein discontinued that tool which is why stew mac is switching models. There are still a few places that still have some stock. Here is one.

You can file your own groove in the Klein with a good set of needle files and some patience. I'll emphisise the word patience here because the deck is hardened steel.

Allparts has a set of nippers stock. If you have an account they are half of retail. ($70 vs $140).

You can also modify the cheapie nibblers off Amazon but longevity might be an issue.

u/ReaperNull · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I've been using this one for about a year. It's a good, reliable drill.

u/Jwast · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Upgrade to an 18v, 20v, or a corded drill. I use 12v makita and bosch drills all day at work and they are pitifully weak on purpose because we hang doors on solid cherry and maple framed cabinets. I also hang doors on solid oak and hickory framed cabinets and those 12v drills sometimes barely have the juice to drive a screw in to those even with pre-drilled holes.

Conversely, if you don't set your chuck appropriately with a 20v drill, you'll either strip your screw hole clean out in wood or hurt your wrist pretty bad when the drill kicks out in metal.

This is the exact model I own and it is a beast. I've had it for about 5-6 years now and love it.

u/Anylite · 3 pointsr/turning

I have had good luck with the Neiko Close quarter drill .

One word of advise, those sanding pads tend to heat up and melt the Velcro on the back, making them useless after that (learned the hard way). So take it slow and let it cool often.

u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I use a nibbling tool for stuff like this.

To use it, mark the outline of the cut, drill a hole slightly bigger than the square cutter head, then insert the tool in the hole and nibble up to your line. With just a little practice, you can make perfect square and rectangular holes.

u/zofoandrew · 3 pointsr/mead
u/noeinan · 3 pointsr/MachineKnitting

I've been using a look to know for a while, but as my health has declined it's gotten a bit difficult to keep up-- plus my looms never made a tight enough knit for my tastes.

So I did some research and found a good, entry level circular knitting machine that wasn't too expensive and I love it! Now I can make a good length scarf in only 3hrs.

I had an idea about making it electric-- lots of folks have set up a power drill and use it for turning the crank. Since it's not the more expensive Addi Express, unfortunately there aren't really custom attachments, so instead I'm using Sugru to attach a spare drill bit I found.

Then I want to hook it up with a foot pedal, and maybe I can work on 3-4 at once!

I also use a row counter, but I think I need a stronger magnet for it to not miss rows.

Product links:

D&D Professional 40 Needles Knitting Machine Weaving Loom Kit includes Yarn Needles Accessories for Adults/ Kids

Electronic Counter, DROK LCD Digital Tally Counter 0-99999 Forward People Door Counter Panel 5 Digits Shockproof Retail Traffic Punch Tester Totalizer Gauge Magnetic Induction Switch

DCT Foot Operated Pedal Controller On/Off Power Supply Switch 115V 15A 2 Step Control Style Woodworking Machine Control

BLACK+DECKER DR260C 5.5 Amp 3/8'' Drill/Driver.

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - White 8-Pack

u/gatorb888 · 3 pointsr/Tools

Brushless gets you more run time, it's basically more fuel efficient. Just using around the house, you probably don't need brushless. The 790 also comes with 2.0 amp hour batteries (more capacity than the 1.5 Amp Hour 780 batteries).

There is also a lower price point drill (DCD771C2) that is brushed and comes with 1.3 amp hour batteries if you are looking to save money. it typically is on sale on black friday around $99. It's a little larger than the 780 and 790 and not as ergonomic

u/dhc2beaver · 3 pointsr/aviationmaintenance

I use this guy, lots of power, not heavy, not too fat if you are working around stuff, I really like it.


Edit: I imagine this would be even lighter, but I've never used it.

u/balathustrius · 3 pointsr/mead

I use this for aeration.

Which basically punches the fruit cap, too.

I rack as much as "necessary." For this one, I expect:

  • Near the end of fermentation, from bucket to carboy.

  • About 1 month after fermentation ends, to leave behind the bulk of the solids.

  • 3+ months after fermentation ends, to rack onto stabilizing elements and back sweeten.

  • If, for some reason, I need to fine it (and history indicates that I will not - all my berry melomels seem to drop clear nigh-instantly), I'll rack it off the fining agents about a week after adding them.

  • (Edit) And of course, I'll rack immediately before bottling.
u/lavardera · 3 pointsr/Tools

Bosch makes a screwdriver version of the drill from that set - in the screwdriver form factor it has a hex chuck and still has the clutch - that's what you want. PS22 is the brushless version. I think they have a brushed version too. This is still a 2 speed driver. If you want something simpler, but perhaps not quite as small, or if you prefer Milwaukee M12 you can try their single speed screw driver. You might want to be able to try both to get a feel for the modulation of the trigger.

u/Azzmo · 3 pointsr/classicwow

I predict their enthusiasm for pizza wanes after the 15th consecutive meal. Here are some things that I've appreciated lately:

- a strong headlamp that is rechargable. I didn't really wear one for 30 years and I've worn mine 3-10 times a week since buying it a year ago. So, so, so, so useful. So useful. So very nice to have laying around nearby to make everything visible.

- Chair - Staple Hyken - comfortable and breathable

- giant mousepad - $10 to $25 and about two feet by three feet on the desk. When everything is a mousepad life is better

- three-jet butane lighter

- a good 12V drill and a drill bit kit. This has saved me about 10 hours and much frustration so far, though if you are considering it you could do better than that price.

- electric toothbrush

- computer repair kit

- good German alligator pliers

- minimalist wallet

u/stagethepoop · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Just slip one of these in your carrying case!

u/tjb1 · 2 pointsr/maker
u/MonkeyWithAPun · 2 pointsr/TVRepair

Will these be flat TVs, or CRTs?

I only worked on flat screens, my kit:
0, 1, 2 Philips screwdrivers, 5/16" and 1/8" flat screwdrivers, A small 1/4" drive socket set with standard and metric sizes, Nylon spudgers (these are great tools for all sorts of things, buy them by the dozen), A small crescent wrench, Torx drivers T-5 to T-30 (security), Metric and standard hex key sets, Needle nose pliers, Locking hemostat or forceps, 5mm nut driver (for VGA screws)

A small rechargable torque limited driver also makes life WAY easier. I used this one:

u/buttermellow11 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

A drill! So very practical of me.

Or how about a dart board

u/walk_the_line · 2 pointsr/DealsReddit

Not bad, I wonder how it compares to this drill:

I guess you get an extra box, but it seems like the dewalt gets better reviews, is 1/2" instead of 3/8", and is nearly the same price.

u/petrek · 2 pointsr/BestOfHomeDeals

I haven't used it, but the Drill/Driver alone (not the 3 piece kit) is $59.97 at Amazon and has 4.5 Stars on 243 Reviews, so it seems to be a well respected tool. I wouldn't think it's good for commercial use, but certainly a good tool for around the house.

u/Sam_the_Engineer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

My wife kept complaining when I would bring my 18V Porter Cable tool kit upstairs and track saw dust and metal chips all through the house when drilling out holes in my 3D printed parts in my office. Tonight after work I was browsing around Lowes while waiting for traffic to clear up when I came across this 8-volt Black & Decker drill that charges via micro USB. The thing lacks any meaningful power, so I don’t think it would be capable of completing many tasks beyond drilling out holes and screwing fasteners into the parts I print.
Additionally, it only has 1 speed (400 RPM) which will probably be troublesome when drilling out holes in small parts, or holes with small edge margins.

Overall, I thought it was a nifty low-cost ($25) gadget that may be something you all would also be interested in.

u/tigermaple · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Thanks! Yes, power sanding is the way to go! (And part of the decision to dry and turn these blanks a second time- they were simply too wet to sand right now). Get something cheap like this since it's hard on the tool anyway. (Or maybe you have a better recommendation on this style cheap drill, this one gets bashed quite a bit on the reviews there and I don't have it myself. The brand I have though was equally cheap from a no-name "Denver tool company" and it's still going strong).

Then get something like this and these. Hold the drill upside down and the rotation should be going the opposite of the rotation of the lathe- this will help minimize the scratch pattern. If the lathe is in "forward" you would basically only want to touch the tool to the bowl between 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. (Get the tool rest out of the way for sanding).

As far as cutting off the tenon at the end, there are a ton of methods that work from vacuum-chucking, to these to these. Lots of guys do a shop-made version of the Longworth chuck, and that might be right up your alley- I've seen your cross-cut sled and I'd say making one of those looks like about an equal level of commitment to the jig! (I haven't made one).

A donut chuck is a another shop-made way to go. (And I have made one of these- easy peasy!)

The method I use most often is even more low-tech though- a jam chuck, with is basically just a cylinder or really crude bowl shape with a layer of foam held in between the cylinder bowl's rim and the inside of the bowl you're finishing held there again in between centers. (that 1/16" or so stuff that comes in tons of colors in about 9×12 sheets at the craft store works really well). Then you just turn off the tenon and this leaves a little bit of a nub (what the live center was up against) and you can just carve that off with a hook knife or a carving chisel (I like the Flexcuts for this).

u/audigex · 2 pointsr/Tools

I'd 100% agree with the other answer here that a drill isn't the right tool for the job.

An impact driver, despite being called a "driver" is also much better than a drill for removing bolts too, with much more torque - they're not just for construction. The only reason I'd go for a drill over an impact driver is if you also do a lot of drilling that the B&D can't keep up with, although I'd note that you can get drill bits for an impact driver too.

This DeWalt is the same price as the drill above, with 3x more torque

u/woodbycolin · 2 pointsr/turning

Well, I never did find the electric, angled, 2" random orbital sander on Amazon. I did find these right angle drills though. A few of the reviews are from bowl turners.

And there are a couple different ones at HF if you type "angle drill" in their search box.

A normal drill works. But perhaps the right angle style has better ergonomics, and a grip that is closer to your work. If I ever do find the one I was thinking of I'll be sure to post up.

u/eosha · 2 pointsr/Construction

Different motor technology = more efficient and longer lasting. More expensive, however.

I've got the Milwaukee M12 tools (their "lightweight" line). Does it have the whoopee of my 18v DeWalt XRP tools? No. But it's got more than enough for all the DIY stuff I've done, including some jobs that most people would say required heavier tools, such as deck building and concrete drilling. Just yesterday I drilled some 6" deep, 1/2" dia. holes in concrete with my M12 hammer drill. I had a Bosch Bulldog hammer drill sitting 15 feet away, and I didn't even bother to get it because the little M12 worked just fine; a bit slower, obviously, but better control.

In short, I'm a fan. The FUEL M12s are better yet.

u/purvel · 2 pointsr/lifehacks
u/E580BAEDA44A · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Do you plan on using drill bits more often, or driving fasteners more often?

If you are fastening, get an Impact Driver:

If you are going to be drilling more often, you could get a cheap corded drill, or either of the drill drivers you linked.

I find that even the hardest drilling tasks, a cheap HF drill works fine. It's going to be as good as the drill bit, basically... But fastening takes a quality tool, and it'll depend on the strength of the anvil as well.

That Impact that I linked hits very hard, and it's an amazing tool.

u/i7-4790Que · 2 pointsr/Tools

Bosch 12V is probably a better bet if you really want a smaller/lighter drill & cylindrical batteries.

might want to look into a cordless screwdriver as well. Because you get the clutch of a drill, and the chuck of an impact driver.

or get the best of both + more

u/81supporter · 2 pointsr/Tools

I like my Bosch stuff. I didn't buy it as a kit, but I own the tools included in the CLPK224-181 kit.

I make my living as an Apprentice Electrician and I think this stuff is overkill for home use.

At work, the only time I use my drill is when I'm running unibits. Any other time, I use either my impact or my 12v drill.

Link to 18v: Bosch CLPK224-181 18-volt Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Combo Kit with 1/2-Inch Hammer Drill/Driver, Impact Driver, 2 Batteries, Charger and Contractor Bag

Most of the drilling I do at work is into sheetmetal. My 12V does just fine.

Here is a 12V kit that meets your specs: Bosch 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Cordless Combo Kit CLPK241-120

They also make a 12V tool with changeable heads: Bosch GSR12V-140FCB22 12V Max Flexiclick 5-In-1 Drill/Driver System

That drill will fit in places the others won't.

I own and use a PS21 at work every day. With the 4.0ah battery, it goes a long time on a charge. I mostly use it to drive screws, with a good amount of up to 1/4" holes in sheetmetal electrical boxes.

u/Jteph · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Aaalright so he's a simple man. I love that. He likes his tools and his gear to be life lasting and that's something I totally agree with.

A strong ass hatchet would be something manly that he might like.

I know this is out of your price range but a good electric Drill saves you so much trouble when you love fixing things around the house.

He has a pocket knife? Why not a multi-tool. I love these things. Super useful. Or a Swiss army knife.

I would love to have any the above mentioned items as gifts so yeah.

Hope you will find the perfect one thou. Happy hunting :D

u/purplepotatoes · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Corded is fine, but most corded drills are not drill/drivers and don't have a clutch. If you go corded, I'd go for one with a clutch such as this from Ryobi. A standard corded drill would allow you to overtorque your bolts very, very easily and you could end up bending or breaking the furniture.

My two cents, don't get the Hitachi, get a cheap corded/cordless with a standard chuck (not a hex chuck) and a clutch. A cheap black and decker is half the price and will let you use standard drill bits in the future. Cut the 90 degree angle off the hex key and you can just use that as your bit in a standard chuck. Keep the clutch just low enough to tighten the bolts.

u/new-Baltimoreon · 2 pointsr/mead

I have one like this, that I got from my LHBS

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/DIY

I definitely wouldn't go cordless for this job. Popular Mechanics had a review of corded hammer drills a little while back.

If you're going to be doing this a lot, I would recommend getting a rotary hammer and not a hammer drill. I would recommend the Bosch Bulldog for the job.

u/PhysicsDude55 · 2 pointsr/Tools

100% agree. You can get the bosch kit for just a small premium more than the harbor freight kit, and the Bosch is undoubtedly much higher quality.

I personally would splurge for the multi head kit, but that might be a bit too much money for a simple seldom used tool.

u/Exasperated_Sigh · 2 pointsr/DIY

One thing on the DeWalt products: There's a durability gap between their low end home owner type tool and their professional models. They cheaped out in the last several years on their production but the brushless sets still, as far as I've heard, hold up really well.

Example: This drill is likely to die on you after only moderate use. This drill will last much longer for $40 more.

Personally I run mostly Dewalt 20v tools. Was sold a rigid miter saw by a Milwaukee salesman (he was off duty) and he swore by it. I've loved it and have had 0 problems, plus they run a lifetime warranty on their products. Milwaukee is IMO at the top right now but you also pay for it.

u/culasthewiz · 2 pointsr/succulents

Get yourself a cheap drill like so: or check out a second hand/thrift store. They come in handy for all sorts of things.

u/bobadafett · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

No, these are not design for that type of work.. This is a powered screwdriver.. made for making quick work of installing outlets or working with machine screws.

There, same price and will do the job.

Also, please be careful when drilling into walls, make sure you are hitting the stud using a good stud finer.. even a strong magnet will do. Be careful of electrical wires, data runs and plumbing drains\vents.

What are you looking do to exactly, hang a picture? Mount a T.V?

u/Hot_Wheels_guy · 2 pointsr/ThingsCutInHalfPorn

You're misunderstanding me. The 18v sold in stores in America is completely different than the 20v sold here. American 18v versus American 20v

One is li-ion, the other is nicad. Huge weight difference.

u/V0RT3XXX · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

At my house we have a horizontal 2x4 as well and the way we got around it is to make a small hole right above or below the horizontal beam then use a 90 degree drill bit tool thingy and drill a small hole through the beam. Then when you drop the cable from the attic down, one person can look through the dry wall hole and navigate the cable through the hole in the beam.

Edit: this:

Or this:

u/Level41821 · 2 pointsr/mead

>Pumping air into it via a turkey baster

that visual just made me giggle.

it all depends on how much head room, and what container you have.

Shaking could give you a geyser, adding air via a turkey baster wouldn't likely do anything, but you could use it to stir slowly for a bit.

If your in a bucket and have good headspace, you could hook this up to a drill and give it a few spins mid bucket.


edit: wasn't done... hit save to soon.

u/ViewAskewed · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have had virtually that same 18v Dewalt drill for almost 12 years and it has never failed me. I actually recently upgraded to 20v and gave my old drill/driver to my wife.

I also work for a company that provides us with 18v Lithium ion Milwaukee drills and I can tell you that we put those things through the ringer each and every day and they are every bit as reliable.

Your biggest reason for the price difference in your two options is that the Milwaukee is a lithium ion kit and they have much much more power. If you are looking for the dewalt counterpart this is closer to its level. If you are serious about drilling through concrete, I would highly suggest getting a hammer drill.

Another thing you might want to consider is buying your drill from a dealer instead of online. Realistically any of the top brands you look at should hold up very well to moderate use, but if you go through a dealer it could make any warranty issues easier.

Hope this was somewhat coherent/helpful. Happy drilling and be sure to come back and share your projects!

u/ugnaught · 2 pointsr/castiron

After sanding down my pans I can tell you that I would never want to do it by hand. It would probably take you hours and hours of sanding.

Might be better off asking a friend or relative if you can borrow their sander for a day.

Or if a drill is more in the realm of something doable, I linked to some stuff in an earlier comment.

> If you want to go with another method outlined here you can use a regular drill. Tons of uses for a drill other than sanding down your skillet.

> Drill $30
Coarse Wire Brush attatchment $9
> * Fine Wire Brush attatchment $6

> Total of $45

u/riadfodig · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This is the one I've been looking at. Whatever I buy will likely dictate future brand of other cordless tools. Is there something else you would recommend in this price range? I'd be willing to go up to $200 for a drill/impact driver combo set.

u/BeatMastaD · 1 pointr/bugin

You can get a relatively cheap tool kit like this (can't vouch for this kit, just an example) and it is easy to store and has most of what you might need for most small projects.

Along with that I would say that a drill (I have this one, it's great) with a bit set. With those things you can probably do most of what you would need in a home.

You can also get saws and stuff but those are less necessary unless you are trying to get into home improvement and renovation type stuff. The drill and tool kit will do you fine for typical home repair and such.

u/TuggyMcPhearson · 1 pointr/AskMen
u/BinaryMaestro · 1 pointr/homegym

Here and
here are two pictures of the screws in my platform. They didn't need to be countersunk. I just predrilled holes in the wood so I'd have them exactly even. Then I just eyeballed the rubber mats. If you need a drill (which you will if you don't have one) this is a really good drill for the price. Should last awhile and be able to do almost anything you need.

u/madmax_br5 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!

Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.




I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.


As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.


GTX1080s, cables & monitors



Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.


You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

  • Black / Blood Red
  • Black / Blood Red / White
  • Black / Blood Red / Silver
  • Black / White
  • Red / White
  • Red
  • Black
  • White

    Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.


    Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.

    Other parts:

    I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
    You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.

    I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!


    I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.


    I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
    There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!

    Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
    Set of files | $15
    Handsaw | $13
    Electronic drill | $50
    1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
    Velcro straps | $8
    Anti static wrist strap | $5

    Working on the whole list now (again).


    Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!

u/cryospam · 1 pointr/mead

The secret to punching the cap is a wine whip like THIS You want stainless steel as the plastic one with the rubber stopper tends to leave rubber flakes in your carboy...not all that pleasant.

u/ZippyTheChicken · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

might as well go for the whole drill

I got one for less than that at biglots but biglots isn't what it use to be.. but they work well

u/squarebore · 1 pointr/rccars

I don't think you'll find anything decent in that micro size. Most of the good ones are 1/4" hex drive.

I've tried the Dewalt 12V, the Hitachi 3.6V, and the Makita 12V.

The Makita was my favorite and that's the one I kept. Most people in R/C like the Hitachi the best because the clutch has a slightly lower setting than the other 2. My Hitachi arrived with a defective power switch, so I returned it. I like the more traditional gun style of the Dewalt and the Makita, which also have the variable speed trigger. The Hitachi was just too long and cumbersome.

The Makita has a 2-speed gearbox and a better (lighter) clutch than the Dewalt. That's why I kept the Makita.

u/CryptoVaper · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have a cordless Black & Decker. I like it mainly because I have a leaf blower and hedge trimmer that use the same battery so I have spares when needed.

u/nut573 · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Not many have ever worked with a g pro wired pcb, but if you need to make the the pcb smaller, you can trim parts of it (I like to use hand nibblers) or cut parts off entirely and jump them with wires.


Also if you're not on there already, join /r/mousereview discord, the modding channel is pretty active.

u/SpacemanFrank · 1 pointr/FTC

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.


Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver -

5.5 mm wrench -

Allen wrench set -

Rotary Cutter -

Hand drill -

Hack saw -
Bench Vice -

Metric Drill bit set -

Pliers set -

That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

u/distantreplay · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Here's my list:
-Good sidewinder with electric brake Cast alloy foot is stiffer and less willing to bend when you drop it, beefy knobs permit easier and more accurate adjustment, brake prevents you from setting it down on the cord while the blade is still spinning.
-12 volt compact cordless
-Folding sawhorse/bench
Total: $850

u/tigerplush · 1 pointr/DIY

Hello, complete noob looking for advice, i am looking up put some screws into my cement ceiling to install a curtain pole. Im on the fence looking to buy a power drill. I saw this product on amazon, its called Dewalts Dcd771c2 20v Anyone know if this product will be strong enough to get the job done?

u/EngineeredMadness · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

IMHO considering something like this will be used on every batch, I wouldn't hesitate to spend a little more on something I knew was made from the correct materials.

When you say whirlpool paddle, are you attempting to oxygenate or are you just trying to gather trub in the center of the kettle? If attempting to oxygenate, might as well just get a wine whip, e.g. . Otherwise you can always use a spoon to stir the pot as it's cooling; the upgrade there is usually a pump system.

u/wheelswaps · 1 pointr/HotWheels

This is the drill I use.

It's a monstrous 8V and it works perfectly, in fact I like that it's slow so I can control it better.

u/ComeOnYouApes · 1 pointr/DIY

Dewalt makes two attachments you could look at.

This is their impact driver rated right angle attachment. I use mine fairly often on the job, and it's held up to hard use, including running 1" spade bits with my impact driver. It's not something I use often but it can really get you out of a jamb.

They also make this flex shaft one, but I don't own one so can't personally comment on its toughness. It looks lighter duty but it would fit into even tighter or awkward spots.

u/neuromonkey · 1 pointr/gadgets

I recommend this for making them open-backed.

u/Headsupmontclair · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

if you dont like powery products (oxyclean) have you ever used one of these to mix with?

[mix stir tool] ( you can find them cheaper...

thats how i mix my oxyclean in when i clean a carboy, or my brew kettle.

u/Mr--Snuffleupagus · 1 pointr/Tools

DEWALT DCD777C2 20V Max Lithium-Ion Brushless Compact Drill Driver I like this 😚

u/Mayday981 · 1 pointr/Tools

Thank you for the reply. Sorry I'm very new to power tools. I noticed the brushless DCD790D2 is more expensive. Is it because it is brushless? And what advantage is there between brushless and with a brush.

Oh and the DCD790D2 says it uses lithium also:

Is there another model without lithium batteries?

u/grahad · 1 pointr/electricians

I use the Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver for any non drilling application.

The interchangeable battery, variable speed, and a torque that has a much lower range than a drill is great. I have been using it for years for IT work, maybe it will work for electricians as well.

u/greenlakejohnny · 1 pointr/networking

+1 for Dewalt. I've got both the 12v and 20v versions and also the Impact drills. You can get pretty good deals the larger kit you buy.

I also like my Hitachi DB3DL2 which is more agile but less powerful.

u/Businfu · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Well actually... probably not, at least with my experience using a dremel. My little hand drill works so well because it’s got really great precision on the RPM control just by being really careful with the trigger. I can get great real-time speed control, which is pretty critical. Maybe there’s some other dremel or accessory that I haven’t seen, but in my dremel the speed can only be adjusted with a clunky wheel, and even then, the slowest RPM is too fast. Also, you’d need to get some sort of annoying adapter to actual fit a small enough bit into a dremel...

I really only use the dremel for ‘carving’ type things... it’s just not delicate enough

EDIT: I think that This is the drill I have. It's honestly fantastic.

u/myself248 · 1 pointr/arduino

Bud-boxes, some step drills, and a hand nibbler. Done and done.

u/CreativeWaves · 1 pointr/woodworking

Is this a good deal? Bosch Power Tools Drill Set - CLPK232A-181 – Two Cordless Drills Tool Kit– Includes Compact Drill, Hex Impact Driver, Lithium Batteries, 18V Charger, Contractor Bag For Professional Use, HVAC

After all my discounts it is $136. I currently only have a corded Porter Cable drill. Tired of changing bits.

u/dagaboy · 1 pointr/ToobAmps

I remember you. A man after my own heart. You can also use a cheap nibbler to make any cutouts you need. But I generally avoid them and use standup transformers and hard mounted power cords with strain relief.

u/TheOkieIronhead · 1 pointr/rccars

This bad boy right here.


If you are trying to complete repairs in a hurry at the track, build a kit without wearing your hands out, or just want to get a lot of work done in less time, this thing is a must. absolutely love this tool.

u/billydreamer · 1 pointr/turning

this angle drill is widely used by turners for all grits + buffing. They're inexpensive, they don't last forever, they are much better than hand sanding.

u/KingCrustacean · 1 pointr/networking
has a torque limiter, and has 2 batteries, a case and a charger. I also carry an impact driver for stubborn screw removal and a hammer drill for installing external antennas for outdoor WAPs

u/ferengiprophet · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Looks good but it costs a little bit more than I'd like (especially for this project). Do you think this is good?

u/indigoataxia · 1 pointr/computertechs

I've been using probably the same General Precision Screwdriver as you for awhile now and it works great for most small screws. There are a few that require a bit of a wrist flick to loosen. I havn't broken it yet but I was lucky to get this PLUS the General Cordless Engraver for $10 for both so not a big deal if it gives out.

For larger screws I either use a Black and Decker 7.2v Lithium Cordless Drill (very lightweight but powerful) OR a Ryobi Tek 4 Cordless Screwdriver (a bit heavier but has light on the chuck, removeable rechargeable battery, and a '2' speed setting for quick removal of loose screws).

u/wickedpixel1221 · 1 pointr/arduino

a nibbler is worth investing in

u/9926alden · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Damn, make sure you clean that out regularly. People have burnt their house down.

Go get this:

Bosch Power Tools Rotary Tool - 11255VSR Bulldog Xtreme Rotary Hammer Drills For Concrete – Use For Overhead Drilling, Demolition, Anchoring – Corded Hammer Drill For Crew, Contractor, Construction

And this:

Starrett KD0414-N 4.1/4-Inch Diamond Grit Holesaw

And this:

7/16” Hex Shank Hole Saw Arbor, Fits 1-1/4” to 6” Hole Saw Quick Change Heavy Duty Alloy-Steel Mandrel with 3 BONUS 1/4” Precision Drill Bits Replacement

Make sure you back off on the drill and let it do the work and don’t let the big overheat.

u/armybrate1 · 1 pointr/DIY

I do pest control and termite work. We ONLY use Bosch SDS hammerdrills. We probably drill out around 400 half inch to 3/4 inche holes per house, and try to get at least two jobs in during a normal day. Bosch is rebuildable if there is an issue, and can be had for less than 200 dollars. This is what we use for drilling into foundations (horizontally) we drill 1/2 inch holes through the block, sometimes solid concrete.
and this is what we use when we have to downdrill or for big holes (1 1/2 inch wide) or when we use long bits (24 to 36 inches)

u/SweetMamaKaty · 1 pointr/DIY

My husband just got this one. He was very choosy, wanted it to be 1/2", cordless, keyless, variable speed, a certain amount of power, good brand, etc. - on the same budget. :) He never likes B&D.

u/M-Thing · 1 pointr/DIY

DeWalt makes a solid power drill that fits your budget. This is the one I have. Lots of power and durably built. DeWalt has many other tools that accept the same battery.
Here are a bunch more with various battery sizes. Not sure of the advantages of the various battery sizes, but I have no complaints with my 18v.

u/Gottria · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hands down the best one for very low torque applications. I use it for work all the time on boards on the lowest setting.
Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver Kit (Lifetime Tool Warranty)

u/MrKaboomCult · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you only plan on using it occasionally I'd go with a black and decker, I bought one ( a year ago and it's perfect general homeowner use.

u/onedisection · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Get this instead. Black & Decker LDX172C 7.2-Volt Lithium-Ion Drill/Driver

u/dragon1291 · 1 pointr/lockpicking
u/morgantm · 1 pointr/Tools

This is kind of pricey but super handy for those situations

DEWALT DWARAFS Right Angle Flex Shaft, 12"

u/StormBeforeDawn · 1 pointr/mead

The difference between good mead recipes and bad mead recipes is basically just nutrition. You take a gravity reading and adjust nutrition from there, or you target a OG in the first place. Nutrition is covered pretty extensively on the wiki, if you go and poke at it and don't understand I'll help you with whatever you need.

The ones that collapse really just degas, they don't aerate that great and they are kind of expensive, but they are better than trying to shake a carboy for sure

u/Nenotriple · 1 pointr/woodworking

Here's a good square:

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price:
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw:

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

u/calley479 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Don't use a Dremmel with the mb still there.

Get a nibbler... I've modded many cases with one similar to that. Nothing fancy, usually just making room for a replacement PSU.

Doesn't leave any debris and makes nice clean lines. Most of the cases i worked on looked like they were made that way afterwards.

u/RoadSurfer · 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

That looks more like an electric screw driver in a drills form factor.

You might get better results with something like this:

I don't own this unit so cannot recommend - just saying a corded drill will probably work better.

u/shady_mcgee · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I've got this one and absolutely love it. Comes with two batteries and enough torque to drill/screw everything I've needed it for so far.

u/djiivu · 1 pointr/
u/Bagelninja · 1 pointr/DIY

I'll second the sentiment on size and weight. If all you are doing is putting stuff in walls then 18 volt is over kill. I'm not a big dewalt fan, I have some of their stuff but my go to brands tend to be makita and then Bosch (with a recent liking of porter cable and Milwaukee). For what you are doing anything from a major brand in the 12 to 18 volt range is going to be fine. You might want to go to a hardware store and hold a couple to get a feel for them and judge the weight. In the 100 range, there really isn't a lot of difference. The other thing to consider is batteries, look for a kit with two if you can. Its always nice to know you have a charged spare.

u/dinst · 1 pointr/Tools

Holes saws are great and have their place, but the impact/ spade bit combo seem to be the ticket for 90% of my uses. Also, I didn't bother to look up what drill you have before, but now I see it's a newer dewalt. Get an impact driver, the difference is night and day. And if you don't have a spare battery, it's super convenient to not have to wait for a recharge while working. Bare tool $70

Or with battery $100

u/willm110 · 1 pointr/Tools

I’ve had really good luck with my DeWalt drill. It would be perfect for all the task you describe above. You can find it here. I’m not sure how difficult Amazon international shipping is though.

u/derek2002 · 1 pointr/Tools

While I can't provide any input on the products you have listed, I picked up a bosch 12v pocket driver at a pawn shop a few years ago. I can't say enough good things about it. Even tho it was used I have never had a single problem out of it or the drill and impact it came with for that matter. Very strong with 2 different speeds. Batteries charge quick. Feels great in the hand. A fine tool worthy or consideration for sure.

u/hated_n8 · 1 pointr/Tools

I got this one and its been mediocre. I was using a 1/2 inch spade bit to drill through about 1 inch of wood flooring and it simply couldn't handle it.

I thought an AC drill would deliver a lot more power.

But according to the above comment both the drill I put in the OP are shit so I'm open to any suggestions!

u/johnsbury · 1 pointr/Skookum

You can buy this right now on Amazon for $79usd.
I absolutely love this drill. Mine came with the charger and an extra battery. The battery life is incredible! It's been ready to go every time I've reached for it. It has a battery life indicator in the form of 3 green leds that count down the battery so you can easily see when its getting low. It feels great in your hand. Plenty of heft but compact in size. Its the last drill I know I'll ever have to buy. It's built like a tank. Last week I was using it and I could see that I was on one led of power left. I knew I had fully charged the backup battery and put it in the case with the charger like 2 years ago. Slapped it in and it was fully lit ready to rock. Put the other one in the charger and it was done in less than an hour. I've had plenty of cordless drills in my lifetime and the most frustrating thing with them for me has always been needing it infrequently and always finding it needing a charge. That will never be the case with this drill.

u/Nathancampbell43 · 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

No, in order to drill anything you need an actual drill, not a screw driver. Also it looks like in order to hold the hole saws you would need a chuck and the driver doesn't have a chuck because it uses the same size bits for every use.
Edit: Link for cheapest drill I found on amazon that will work.

u/ahenkel · 0 pointsr/buildapc

If you start building PC's for other people, Or if you do already a variable speed cordless screw driver becomes an invaluable tool.

There's lots but this is a good one.

u/pinkshirtfedora · 0 pointsr/climbing

> normal household hammer drill.

This is a 'normal household drill'. It is not a hammer drill.

u/theyre_whores_im_in · -1 pointsr/deals

direct u/callofdoobie spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/callofdoobie for violating the rules for personal profit.

u/ArtOfRenaissance2016 · -1 pointsr/The_Donald

Dewalt DCD771C2 20V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/2 inch Compact Drill Driver Kit