Speakers and Sub

Headphone DAC

Headphones

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-92ECD?sc=2&category=16684

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-311EP?sc=2&category=16684

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-v78.shtml

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

http://www.highqualitymanuals.com/images/large/products/HD/HD84//HD84_2.jpg

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=DAC

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-2&keywords=DAC

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Azur-DacMagic-100/dp/B0078Q35PG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-10&keywords=DAC

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

AFAIK, most USB DACs should work fine with Linux. I have a Micca OriGen+ that works perfectly (detected as VIA USB Device). It also has the convenience of two switches to toggle between line-out/headphone + usb/optical so you don't have to unplug anything. Speaker line-out doesn't have an amp though, which could be a negative or plus depending on your needs.

Sorry to hear that, hopefully though you're on the road to recovery.

So two options you have...

1. Use a controller with a 3.5mm headphone jack and plug speakers or headphone into that, or if it doesn't have that the Microsoft Stereo Headset Adapter, plug speakers/headset into that and the adapter into the controller
   
   
2. Buy a DAC, plug the optical/TOSLINK into the DAC and the other end into the SPDIF port on the back of the Xbox One, power the DAC using the USB port on the Xbox One and then plug your headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm port on the DAC. By DAC I mean something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROZOR-Digital-Toslink-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462798176&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

I haven't seen anyone do this in years. It was somewhat common about 10 years ago when good headphones were becoming popular, but external DACs and headphone amplifiers didn't really exist. I mean, yeah, headphone amps have been around since at least the 60's, but they were always expensive audiophile or recording studio products. So for PC audio you either modified your sound card or built a CMoy amp, because the cheapest actual headphone amp was $1000.

Also, a good DAC is about $20, not $120. A good headphone amp is around $100 though so it would be $120 for both, but most headphones do not need an amp.

Since everyone has been asking here's a list of everything.
-
---

• Wallpapers
  
  
• Rainmeter skins
  
  
• LED strips under desk
  
  
• LED strip behind monitor
  
  
• Lamp
  
  
• Light bulb
  
  
• Corsair fans
  
  
• Corsair lighting node pro
  
  
• PSU Extension cables
  
  
• Phone stand
  
  
• Speakers
  
  
• Speaker stand
  
  
• Mouse pad
  
  
• Chair
  
  
• DAC
  
  
• Headphone stand
  
  
• Smart watch
  
  
• Desk
  
  
  
  PC specs and Peripherals
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | Purchased For $199.99
  CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
  Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $59.99
  Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | Purchased For $129.99
  Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $104.90
  Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $66.99
  Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Red Devil Golden Sample Video Card | Purchased For $339.00
  Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $99.99
  Power Supply | Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $99.99
  Case Fan | Corsair - HD120 RGB 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $26.99
  Case Fan | Corsair - HD120 RGB 3-Pack w/Controller 54.4 CFM 120mm Fans | Purchased For $83.78
  Monitor | Acer - XF270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | Purchased For $400.00
  Keyboard | Qisan - Magicforce Wired Mini Keyboard | Purchased For $31.98
  Mouse | Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS (White) Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $49.99
  Headphones | Superlux - HD668B Headphones | Purchased For $39.95
  Headphones | Philips - SHP9500 Headphones | Purchased For $49.99
  Other| Kanto YU2 Powered Desktop Speakers – 3" Composite Driver 3/4" Silk Dome Tweeter – Gloss White| Purchased For $199.99
  Other| CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO| Purchased For $54.99
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $2123.49
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-19 03:24 EDT-0400 |
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH2BW8ZS5XZQCS2VPB7K

edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC

A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP

An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

The PS4 still has optical audio output, so if your headset supports that, you can connect it with that.

I recommend getting something like this, which will convert optical to red/white RCA cables.
A clumsier option would be to plug this cable into your controller.

Boom

I've used DACs and kit with built-in DACs ranging in price from $3 to $300, but I'm mainly focused on non-headphone audio. My audio signal distribution backbone is also mostly digital because splitting line-level signals more than a handful of times is needlessly complicated in 2017.

Between room acoustics, speaker placement, diaphragm installation variability, listening position, intended colouring from horns and drivers, flaky binding posts, line impedance, analog equalization, noise inherent to tubes, digital processing in pre-amps, and other factors, I've stopped caring about the fine details of individual DACs since almost every single item downstream of it colours the sound far more than the difference between the most and least expensive DAC.

Short reviews, in no particular order:

• Zalman ZM-RSSC 5.1 External Real Surround Sound Extremal Sound Card - $50 new - One knob controls analog output to up to 3 devices before noise floor becomes a problem. (In other words, the device's relatively weak line-level output colours the sound far more than the DAC chip itself.)
  
  
• NAD T763 - $200 used - The sound of the cooling fans tells me that that this powerful not little amp is turned on and passing both digital and analog outs to other gear, even when the amplifier section is not doing anything. (In other words, the cooling fans colour the sound in the room far more than the DAC chip itself.)
  
  
• Panasonic SA-HE70 - $50 used - Drives two 12-inch woofers just fine, without sacrificing whatever detail a digital signal is supposed to provide at the low end. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.
  
  
• Sony TA-E1000/2000 - >$1000 new in 1980s dollars, $300 used in 2017 dollars - Includes parametric EQ, custom EQ profiles, massive lighted volume knob, handy remote, and various DSP features. This pre-amp can bring out the best in many different kinds of power amplifiers or amplifier sections of integrated amplifiers. These are my default DACs for experimenting with new kit, and for power amplifiers that don't have volume controls. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.
  
  
• MacBook Pro - various prices new and used - The optical SPDIF output avoids having to deal with frequent ground loop issues arising from the combination of the laptop's metal case and interesting power adapter design and options. The analog out does not connect to kit that I care about without a grounded power cable.
  
  
• Generic Chinesium DAC - $3-5 new - Regardless of what brand is printed on the case, this just a DAC is compact and well suited for tube and non-tube monoblocks that have volume pots. These are my default DACs for when I want an analog pre-amp or power amplifier to just work without having to thoughtfully route interconnects, deal with line-level impedance issues, deal with source selection, etc. These are also great to modify in order to change the line level output characteristics to match expected input on older or exotic gear.
  
  In almost all cases, my choice of DAC has far more to do with the device's other functions, usability, or physical characteristics, than with its sound output quality because I know (and intend) that downstream kit will modify the analog output before it hits my ears. Hence I'm fine with a $5 DAC in front of far more expensive monoblocks and horns.

A Toslink to 3.5mm adapter does not do what you think it does. It's just a physical conversion of two optical audio standards.

What you need is a Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) which will take an optical audio signal in (Toslink) and output 3.5 mm stereo audio.

This is an example of an item which will do that for you:
http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/

Sometimes your TV or monitor will have a DAC built in to it. If it's a TV, look for the left and right RCA jacks (red and white). If it's a monitor, it may have a 3.5 mm jack on it which will convert the audio signal from the HDMI port to stereo audio for you.

I had this problem a while ago when I bought new speakers, the solution for me was to buy a cheap external DAC and plug that into the optical port on my motherboard, since it's just light there is no electrical interference.

Convert the optical to analog.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

Digital optical to analog convertor like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376351303&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+optical+audio+converter

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/

https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

You're using your laptop's onboard digital to analog converter which is why you've got that stereo to rca cable adapter sticking out of the side of your laptop. This is a weak link in your system, because of of all the other computer stuff in the laptop making noise on the DACs power supply.

You could spend crazy money on external DACs but any modern DAC powered outside of the laptop will probably sound better.
I use this which requires either optical or coax digital output from the computer, but you could get a USB version if you don't have this.

Try a fiio e10k or an Micca OriGen+ (inexpensive dac+baby amp combos). I'm running an "easy to drive" set of headphones as well (Phillips Fidelio X2, 30 ohm) but oh God it makes a difference. No hiss at higher volumes, better sound quality, better channel split as well. Not to mention an easy to reach hardware volume control and secondary optical input (olympus+) makes life easier on top of that.

Attach either underneath your desk with velcro and your life will change.

I think this may be what your looking for:

Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ib2wCbGM5SB4J

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/tech-data/B005K2TXMO

that will do what you describe.

That said, unless some labeling is obscured on your TV pic, it looks like that coax jack is an input.

Your TV doesn’t appear to have any RCA outputs, but there might be a headphone jack somewhere else on the tv. If not, you could get an SPDIF converter for the optical out PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aPYvCbT1S2HBC

Cheap alternative is to get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_10 that converts your digital into anolog and connect that into your receiver. Its only 20 bucks. Worked great for me.

The other response is correct. You use that 3.5-RCA red/white splitter and set the Denon to the right input.

That said, you're spending a lot and I would recommend one more purchase that will either use the Denon or itself to decode digital music. This is a cheap option that can do both. Plug it into your USB, then run RCA cables or an optical cable to the Denon.

Ideally, if you're connecting a PC to anything that makes noise, use an optical Toslink. Those are not electrically conductive, which means the only thing that gets transferred across is the digital sound data. Ground loops become impossible.

This obviously requires that whatever you connect to (an amplifier, or powered speakers) have an optical in. Alternatively, you could go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Without an optical out, you might wind up needing one of these, too: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE or something along those lines.

This all does cost more than a ground loop isolator, but it also doesn't do serious damage to the quality of the audio. It's better to break the electrical connection between the units than to try to filter out the 50/60 Hz line noise.

Can you tell us the brand and model of the TV or show us a photo of the connectors on the back?

I'm skeptical that the TV has RCA audio out. These days they typically only have RCA in; audio out will typically be a toslink optical connection.

And therein may lie the answer. If your TV indeed has a toslink "audio out" connection and your "old CD player" has an RCA "aux in" connection, then you can use a TOSLINK to RCA converter to plug the TV through the CD player to the speakers.

I believe the SMSL Sanskrit 6 meets all of your requirements and is pretty well regarded.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SY9RBOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483629249&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smsl+sanskrit

Some Roku TVs have a Line Out 3.5mm jack or dual RCA jacks. If this model doesn't have that, you could use a device like https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8 to convert the optical digital output to your PA system.

This was my solution for my current setup. Will use it when I get these speakers in tomorrow.

That's not the equipment you need for what you're trying to do. Your soundbar has an amplifier already built-in, what you need is something to take the analog signal from the turntable and digitize it to a form the soundbar can understand. The optical input (also caused toslink), would be the easiest route. Something like this would do the job.

I would highly recommend getting something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549324253&sr=8-3&keywords=192khz+dac+converter
You can use any headphones on it and it as a scroll wheel for volume. This is my current set up for the ps3.

Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:

1. An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300
   
   
2. Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.
   
   
3. The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.

Here's a cheaper option for the OP if he isn't using anything fancy.

as far as cheap dacs this thing sounds pretty good to me, way better than it's $20 price tag

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=fiio+dac&qid=1563877792&s=electronics&sr=1-7

I use one at work so if it get's stolen I won't be heart-broken

I think you'd probably need a converter like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC) to go from optical to a headphone jack.

You can work the apple tv without a screen as long as you are air playing though. I've got mine in an AV receiver but rarely actually turn the tv on with it.

Logitech is r/PCSound.

r/BudgetAudiophile is for better bookshelf speakers.

>This subreddit is for the budget minded audiophile that wants to grow out of boomboxes, bluetooth speakers and PC branded audio solutions (Logitech).

Lowest budget are:

• $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle
  
• $60 Edifier R980T Powered/Active
  
  If your 3.5mm analog output is giving you noise/interference, then use the optical output. You can add an optical DAC to anything with an Aux input: FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter $23.
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
  Get Those Speakers Off Your Desktop/Shelf

Could also get the FiiO D3 if he wanted a less expensive optical DAC.

I would recommend you just get a small DAC with an optical input and RCA outputs. If you don't need anything but a stereo, digital-analog audio converter then it is very overkill. Fiio has something really small I was using at work, and it's perfect for this situation. Just run the optical cable from your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Using an external DAC with optical will provide the least noise of all options (internal sound card, external DAC through USB, or optical) because no conversion happens within the PC. This also allows you a little more freedom of placement because you can get a longer optical cable and place the DAC where you need, closer to your speakers.

You can always get a Digital to analog audio converter, that is what i'm planning to do.

here's an amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376701898&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK


I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

Not unless you have a "headphone out" on your screen or you could use a DAC: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382205551&sr=1-1&keywords=DAC
That DAC would convert Optical to RCA then you could use a normal speaker set.

> 50 ohm impedance would be hard for my motherboard to push

50 Ohm is not a high impedance, your motherboard should be able to drive the HD598 with ease.

A problem that does occur with motherboards is inadequate damping. If your mobo's output impedance is higher than ~5 Ohm you will decrease the sound quality and fidelity of the HD598. Unfortunately soundcard and mobo manufacturers know their products are mostly shit and therefore they do not even provide these specs at all.

If you want to make sure to get the most out of the HD598 invest in an entry level desktop DAC/AMP like the FiiO E10K or Micca Origen+

There is the micca origen+

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

The FiiO Taishan is a good cheap DAC.

You could even power it from your TV, if it has a USB socket.

All right metalhead can nerds and audiophiles, I need some new headphones! I posted this over at /r/headphones but got no reply. I figured this might be a good thread to try and grab a response or some opinions, and this sub is more likely to have an opinion specifically tailored to my music tastes and needs. Here's a copy of the format from their advice thread:

> Budget - $250-$300 MAX
>
> Source - MacBook Pro & a VERY basic DAC (will upgrade that later), also have a turntable and stereo setup
>
> Requirements for Isolation - None, Really
>
> Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No
>
> Preferred Type of Headphone - Over Ear, closed Back
>
> Preferred tonal balance - Heavy, tight Bass
>
> Current headphones - Audio Technica Air ATH-AD700
>
> Preferred Music - I listen primarily to sludge and doom metal (Electric Wizard, Conan, Windhand, and YOB for example)
>
> What would you like to improve on from your set-up - The Airs REALLY lack any "oomf" and are very very bass light so I end up using my Focal IEMs. I like their sound stage though. Ive been thinking about making a change to closed backs for the extra bass, but I still want a tight, strong, warm, controlled bass...not a mindless over saturated vibrating bass that loses detail & overpowers the treble and mids.
> I am willing to look in to a basic amp if needed, so that would not be an issue. Im also willing to look at open backs again as well if there is a good contender.

So far my main upgrade options ive been looking at are:

Audio Technica ATH-M50X (I HAVE developed a liking for the AT brand)
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO (250 Ohm)

Thanks for any advice!

So you could get a cheap TOSlink converter box and run the audio into your pc that way.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Easyday-Digital-Converter-Optical-Headphone/dp/B00NJCCAKY

The MSR7s are my favorite closed cans, and ive tried a lot. The clarity is astounding for a closed back, and almost as clear as my HD600s. I don't find them sharp either. Remember this, the headphone will only sound as good as your source. I use an audioengine D1 dac paired with my MSR7, and using a amp/dac combo will bring out the best in them, tighting up the highs and giving you slightly more detailed bass. If you use spoitify, make sure you enable high quality, or download some flac files to really see what the MSR7 can offer. When done right you will love them. These are some of the most accurate cans you can get for under 400, (excluding the 600s) And yes, the comfort is way up there in the top of closed back cans. Remember, the source of your sound is VERY important!!! Youtube songs will not do!

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2

I am currently building my pc, but I've been using the following converter with an old audio receiver and my xbox one and I have absolutely zero complaints. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EPW7TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0jL5ybBYMTVK4

I take it you are trying to use your computer monitor that doesn't have speakers for your PS4 and want sound from the 3.5mm jack from your speakers?

You would need to convert the audio from PS4's optical out using http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA

Then set PS4 audio out to optical.

There is an optical audio out port on the back of the Xbox.

Gotta use that. If your speakers don't have that connection, there are adapters.

If you don't get the CCA, would a cheap TOSLINK DAC work? Something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS

for $20?

Imho, a DAC is the least of your worries at this price point. Use your onboard DAC and spend the money on speakers and amplification.

If you aren't satisfied, add the dac later when more funds become available.

$200 for amplified 2.0 IDM setup is still kinda tight, but it's a lot more to work with than if you spend half to a third of that budget on a dac.


How are you on space?

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Pair-Powered-Monitor-114697963.gc

alternatively you could get a starter dac if your pc output is terrible.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538513731&sr=8-9&keywords=fiio+dac


I've personally used this dac and found it quite acceptable with a nice system costing about 5 times what you are looking at. Truth be told, I'm now using a minidsp 2x4 hd and i doubt I could apples to apples tell the difference on just the dac functionality.

I bought one of these for the same purpose. There are some cheaper ones but I went with this one because I know the brand. It sounds great to me.

DAC - Digital to Analogue Converter.

Example

Not a dumb question at all. Personally I don't agree with many of Logan's reviews/opinions when it comes to audio, but having a decent driver for your headphones/speakers is a great investment if you are an audiophile. [I think you are after something like this though. It is a very good unit.


I am sure others will also have input/suggestions but this is just one of the top of my head


An alternative is an internal sound card to drive your audio and a good entry level card that makes a world of difference over most onboard audio drivers is one of these.

There are alternatives to fit most use cases and budgets so if you want more info, feel free to ask.

It is worth adding that audio will only sound as good as the weakest link in the chain. If the initial quality/bit rate or the headphones/speakers aren't that good, purchasing a good driver will not make a difference. I can also expand on this if you want

looks like that tv does not have an analog audio output so you would need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/

there are cheaper ones, at around $12-16, but those don't have a headphone out, just a line level analog out, meant for powered speakers. so i recommended this one. also there is no volume adjustment so i recommend a headphone with a volume control. you also need a digital optical cable such as:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

for question 2, you can try putting the TV into 1:1 pixel mapping. not all TVs have this option, unfortunately. you can check if it does, but pressing the 'picture' button on your remote. sometimes its called "just scan"

No. Some 3.5mm jacks also double as a mini optical port. That's what this cable is.

You would need somthing like this. To take the digital In and convert to analog out. https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B008EPW7TA

The headset just accepts chat over that cable connection. You'll still need something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA to get game audio.

You need a DAC for the Xbox.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D03K-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

You also need the S/PDIF cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38

Better DAC's exist, but you won't notice the difference with cheap speakers.

Your headphones can receive an RCA connection?? Reminds me of a line from a movie...

Westley: I mean, if we only had a wheelbarrow, that would be something.
Inigo Montoya: Where we did we put that wheelbarrow the albino had?
Fezzik: Over the albino, I think.
Westley: Well, why didn't you list that among our assets in the first place?

You could use that one from Best Buy or a Fiio D3K Taishan (that's a pretty standard optical to RCA DAC).

Exactly which headphones do you have??

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

$20 at Amazon for one of these https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS - fixes problems with hum/buzzing you may get from using the analog 3.5mm output.

Fantastic, you have a Toslink out. If you have issues with noise or hum from that, which I dont think you will, you can just use a cheap DAC like this....

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495736501&sr=8-1&keywords=Fiio+dac

and run from the digital (Toslink out) to the DAC then the RCA outs on the DAC to the CD (or whatever) input on the receiver. I know it sounds complicated, but its really simple. You will only need 1 or 2 cables depending on the setup.

In the video he is using a HDMI splitter to split the signal into two and then converting one of them into analog audio using a DAC (Digital-to-Analog-Converter). However, you can skip the HDMI splitter because, fortunately for us, the consoles already split the signal for us. It's called TOSLINK or optical out. This signal is output with near 0ms delay (cannot get any quicker output). Now we just need to convert it to an analog signal. Fortunately again, most sound receivers do this for you (most will have a optical audio input) and they do it with very good audio delay (it takes a few ms to convert from digital to analog). The issue arises when you don't have a sound receiver and you instead use the TV's built-in DAC. In almost all cases, they are the cheapest DAC the TV manufacturer can find and the audio is ran through several built-in filters before being output (adding quite a bit of audio delay). So here are your scenarios and solutions.

1. Sound receiver (external soundbar or stereo receiver) - Use an optical audio cable ($5-$10) and run it from the console directly into the sound receiver. If you are using a sound receiver, it will have a "Direct" mode. You need to enable that to bypass the sound filters (which increases lag). Most sound bars do not have this feature but the filters they apply are much less extensive and therefore much less lag inducing.
   
2. No sound receiver (built in TV speakers) - Buy a cheap external DAC (Fiio D3 for $20 is a very good choice) and run an optical audio cable directly from the console into the DAC and then a red/white (analog RCA) cable directly from the DAC into the TV.
   
   I would highly recommend #1 over #2. You can pick up a decent sound bar for $80+ and it will blow your mind compared to the TV's built-in speakers. I personally own this one and it's not even comparable to the TV's speakers. It also allows you to connect your Bluetooth devices directly to it wirelessly and use headphones by plugging them directly into the sound bar.
   
   Hope this helped!
   
   

   edit:
   

   
   

• Did some testing for you and pulled out my Fiio D3 and did optical direct from console and then used headphones plugged into the Fiio. My audio lag for guitar was +10ms from the video lag (0ms, TV in game-mode). This would also be comparable to Direct Stereo Mode in a sound receiver. Maybe another +10ms.
  
• The sound bar is around +60ms. Which is extremely fast for it running the audio through a sound filter (to make it sound better / it doesn't have any kind of direct stereo mode). (I need to test this more later though.)

Much more budget friendly.

I’ll assume by “lag” you mean the latency between when you strum and when the note sounds. If you simply mean the difference between when the note sounds and when it crosses the line on the TV, that can be adjusted in video settings.

Latency, however, and only be fixed in hardware (at least in the context of Rocksmith on XB1).

First, let’s talk about latency. I forget the actual cutoff, but somewhere around 100ms is the point at which your brain will “notice” that the sound of your strum is lagging behind your action of strumming. As long as you can get it under your threshold of perception, you’ll usually be fine. But once it’s over, you’re screwed.

Latency stacks. So every step that adds latency is the enemy. There is latency in the real-tone cable (and indeed any digital interface). There’s latency in the Xbox, as it takes your tone, applied your amp and effect sims, and then sends it out to the optical output. Further, there’s latency in whatever digital to optical converter you plug that optical into. Plus there will be even more latency if that amplifier or sound bar is doing any fancy audio effects (like surround or simulated surround). And if you’re running HDMI to a TV? Fuhgeddabout it. I think that step alone adds like 80ms. You won’t notice it when watching Stranger Things, but Rocksmith will always suck.

So what can you eliminate? On Xbox One, here’s the best you can do (XB360 has analog outputs so you can do a bit better):

Xbox->DAC->Analog Amp

Turn literally every possible effect on that amp off, or even better buy one that doesn’t have any to begin with. Just a stupid dumb analog stereo amplifier. The latency will be gone, or rather it’ll be less than the perception threshold.

Some home theater amps have an option somewhere you can set to get pure unprocessed stereo audio. My friend’s has a single button you can hit for analog inputs that’ll do it. But first things first I’d try to somehow get the setup above going, and see if it fixes your problem.

For the DAC, I use this one with my (optical only) PC:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/

That’s a FiiO D3 DAC. Does nothing but turn SPDIF audio over optical into RCA/3.5mm analog. It adds about as little latency as possible. Plug literally any “dumb” computer speakers into it...I’m talking $10 no-frills simple amplified speakers. You should hear no lag. Verify this.

Now, if you then still get lag when you run that DAC’s output into your sound bar, then your sound bar is the problem. Figure out if you can turn off all the processing (surround, SRS, basically any effects at all). If you can’t? Go to Goodwill and get a cheap stereo amp for like $30. And some cheap speakers to match. That’s what I did. Cheap Sony amp with a remote, no surround, only two speakers out and stereo inputs. But it gets the job done.

Good luck!

This is an issue on PC too, btw. It’s just that most PCs, unlike Xbox, have analog outputs. And many users are also using analog speakers, not crazy sound bars and such. So the usual problem hardware isn’t present.

http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.

Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).

Fiio E10k is the popular under-$100 choice (and deservedly so) but if you can find the Micca Origen on sale for less than $100 like it is right now on Amazon, it's good too. For a desktop amp, the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp is decent for that price range.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011O0N0UQ?vs=1 here is a optical audio to 3.5mm I've seen that the usb soundcards only did chat but this is a sure thing.

So standard pinball cabinet: Playfield space is 20.5 inches wide. Back box space is 28.5 inches wide.

This backbox TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-32-class-led-720p-hdtv/5747454.p?skuId=5747454

Mounted with this mount:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RN77YL6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

DMD screen is this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB17E0Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Playfield TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-40-class-led-d-series-1080p-smart-hdtv/6288347.p?skuId=6288347

Speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N8265I8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My computer only has optical out so I need this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you don't require motion sensing nudging or a analog plunger you can get a simple keyboard controller like this:

https://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Buttons like this:

https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-h-concave-short-stem-pushbutton-blue/

Couple of ground wire harnesses like this (you'll probably need two):

https://www.focusattack.com/30-connection-22-awg-187-ground-daisy-chain-wire/

And some .187 quick connect wiring:

https://www.focusattack.com/16pc-22-awg-wire-with-187-quick-disconnect/

1 1/8 inch spade bit to enlarge or add cabinet button holes:


https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-SPEEDBOR-Blue-Groove-Spade/dp/B00004YOAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+1%2F8+spade+bit&qid=1569174093&sprefix=1+1%2F8+sp&sr=8-3

After that it's just assorted HDMI cables, USB Extension cords, a computer and a partridge in a pear tree. I keep my computer outside of the cabinet in case I want to use it for other things and keep the heat out so my cables are long. The TVs don't generate much heat. And currently I just turn the TVs and computer on manually.

I built my own speaker grills out of foam board and acousticly transparent cloth.

you can get an optical to rca converter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AWBA8U8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As mentioned in other comments, the usual suspects from Schiit's budget-friendly selection are a good start:

• Amplifiers: Schiit Magni 2 or Schiit Vali 2
  
• DAC: Schiit Modi 2
  
  As for products not made by Schiit, any of these will give you good performance for the price:
  
  Amplifiers:
  
  
• JDS Labs Objective2
  
• Bravo Audio Ocean
  
• Little Dot I+
  
  DACs:
  
  
• JDS Labs OL DAC
  
• Micca Origen+
  
  Now I can't guarantee that all of these amps will reliably drive the AKG K712 Pro with authority or anything, but they should all be able to let you use them without turning the volume up to 11.
  
  Hope this helps :)
  
  Edit: Ok so smaller USB-powereds are not sufficient for the AKGs, as pointed out by the commenters below (Thanks for correcting). That would explain why I perceived so much improvement upgrading from the E18 :P

Hmm, good starter amp/dac for Fidelio X2; two products come to mind:

Micca Origen+ ($109)
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

Schiit Fulla 2 ($99)
http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2


There are lots more options, but I believe these are some of the best for a cheap desktop solution.

FX DAC X6 or SMSL SD793-II. There are some cheaper options like this but they're probably not great

~$20 is pricey? It's not as cheap as a passive adapter but I wouldn't consider it pricey.

You will probably have to get something like this.

What kind of monitor and speakers do you have?

Ok, you're probably going to get a bit of flack for asking about headsets, but I'll let you know what I've figured out.

I have the same headset. However, I'm also using an audio/video receiver for surround sound. When I plug in my headset, I use the 360 for USB power, the chat cable goes to the controller, and the green plug goes into the headphone port on my receiver. I bypass the L/R audio patch cables entirely. This makes my setup easy for day one. I have the 2.5mm-3.5mm adapter and I'll just be able to switch out the 360 for the PS4 and everything will work.

If you do not have a receiver, then you may be able to use a converter to get game audio and be fine.

It won't. It's 3.5mm in size, but it's still an optical signal. You'll need a Digital to audio converter. Something like this. Then a cable like this one and you are good to go.

Or if you want to make your life easier. Get this cable and use the ps3 av cables.

FiiO makes a cheap but solid dac ($19.99 from parts-express.com or if you have prefer Amazon it's 24.99 with prime)

1 optical in, 1 coaxial in, 1 3.5 line-out, and L-R output to your amp.

Unless you have a receiver you might be SOL. You could buy a cheap pair of speakers and one of these bad boys.

If you leave the Impedance set on the '4 ohm' selection, play the amp for an extended period of time and see if it heats up. Because the speakers themselves are only 8 ohms, you should not have a problem.

Does the receiver have a tape monitors in/out? that would be the way to hook up an external EQ, that way you can punch the EQ in or out to your liking. Personally, I haven't hooked up my external EQ in over 5 years, they just impart distortion.

If you want a DAC to simply bypass your onboard analog and don't need any amplifications (since you have the receiver) try the FIIO D3

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/B005K2TXMO

It's cheap and guys around these parts that have them say they do a great job

I'm going to assume you want to use this for a desktop, gaming setup. If you could stretch out to $200, you could grab the Audioengine A2s, but if you want to operate on super low costs, try this.

DAC + Vintage receiver + Passive (bookshelf) speakers

You can find a good vintage receiver for cheap at thrift stores or Craigslist. Same with the speakers. You could probably do that on less than $100 depending on where you live. If you need help hooking stuff up, message me.

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

Are you sure there isn't a minijack somewhere? Sometimes there are two sets of IOs, e.g. one on the back of the TV, and one on the side.

If there is only an optical out, you'll need a DAC (digital/analog converter) and an amp (you need some sort of amp regardless).

Here's an example of an inexpensive DAC https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO . I have no idea if that's any good; you'll want to get recommendations for the best options, but it would certainly work.

Amps are more complicated, and many people will put as much thought into their amps as they do their speakers. For a solid budget option, the Lepai 2020 https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000 will work well. It's a bit underpowered for e.g. the Overnight Sensations, but the higher sensitivity of the C-note should make it suitable unless you want quite high volume.

There are also amps out there with built-in DACs, so will have an optical in and stereo out all in one box.

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

+

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

Don't mess with headphone plugs. Your TV doesn't have analog audio outputs on. To use that amp (analog only) you'll need a converter $25 and an RCA cable. The problem with this is volume control. You'll have to get up every time you want to adjust the volume because that amp doesn't have a remote. Oh yeah and you're going to be very limited by power as that amp probably only puts out 20 watts at best. While more than enough for a desk it might be kinda light for a decent sized room especially with no sub handling the bass. I would pass honestly.

The correct way to do this would be to get an AVR and speakers. That way you can have all the inputs you need and all the control you need over the sound. You also get a remote and more than likely an app for you phone to control volume. You could go for a more expensive amp but they are almost as much as a refurb AVR.

That particular TV seems to only be equipped with an optical digital audio output.

In which case, a setup would consist of the following:

1. TV connected via TOSlink cable connected to a simple digital to analog converter ($28)
   
2. DAC is connected to the amplifier you were suggested above via a standard RCA cable ($5.45)
   
3. … to either one of the amps you were suggested earlier
   
4. On the speaker front, you basically won't need anything more complicated than lamp cord from your nearest radio shack. Wiring is uncomplicated: Just make sure that you connect "black to black" and "red to red" for each speaker
   
5. As for the speakers you were suggested, among the two, the Pioneer is probably the better sounding one, but later this month, Micca is releasing a revised version named the MB42X, retailing for $80, that are supposedly much better than the old model. Review and measurements here - while I would've liked to see more reviews, it's definitely not looking bad for that low price.
   
   Also: If my explanation above looks complicated - I'm fairly certain that once you have this connected, you'd think that it sounds better than even a $1000 soundbar, all for a price of less than $200.

You just need something like this. You might be able to find others cheaper somewhere else. This was just the first entry I found.

Wat you need is a digital analog converter usually revered to as a DAC. Now yes you might be able to get an amplifier with one but that would be a rather large change to the system. The alternative is to get a standalone DAC that converts the digital optical source to analog rca outputs. Here is an example of a DAC that would do.

Not if you buy a DAC/preamp, an amp and speakers (a "receiver" is generally a preamp and amp in one unit). He's talking about piecing it together separately. I'm not necessarily recommending these items, but for example:

DAC:
http://amzn.com/B005K2TXMO

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B000VKXLBO

Speakers:
http://amzn.com/B003N18QK4

You could try an optical to 3.5mm adapter, it might work, but it would have to be a powered unit. a google search brings up something like this

Otherwise does the monitor have a headphone jack? Can you listen to the PS4 using headphones through the monitor? If you can you could run a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable from the monitor to your speakers.

What's your budget? Where do you live? What type of music do you listen to? Are you looking for headphones that can be used for gaming? Do you need a mic with the headphones? What is the music coming from? For example, if you're listening to music through your computer and your headphones are connected to the computer, you would be better off getting a DAC and amp combo (something like the Schiit Fulla/Schiit Fulla on Amazon or FiiO E10K or Audioengine D1 or AudioQuest DragonFly) and then getting better headphones. I personally have tried several different brands and Sennheiser are my favorites. I currently have Sennheiser PC 363D (on Amazon) for gaming, movies, and TV and have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE (on Amazon) for music.

The only thing that really fits that description is the Audioengine D1
http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-digital-to-audio-converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370584717&sr=8-1&keywords=audioengine+d1

I personally use the Sony MDR7506 as they're pretty much a standard for basic monitoring. Crisp, detailed high end, tight punchy base. Comfortable for hours on end and if you take decent care of them they should last years with the only wear and tear being the earcup material flaking off a bit. They're definitely made for desk-use as they have a very long coiled non-detachable cable.:

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E

There's also the Sony MDRV6, which are very similar, but apparently have a little more low-end.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDRV6-Studio-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00001WRSJ
__

As far as speakers go, I've been using the Audioengine A5+ for a few years now and have been very satisfied. Great sound and more power than I'll ever be able to use in my small apartment. They look nice too (I got a good deal on the white ones). They are powered speakers (opposed to the A5) and thus don't require a separate amp. They also come with a small remote for volume/mute:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Active-2-Way-Speakers-Black/dp/B005OA3BSY

For a DAC I use the Audioengine D1 plugged in through USB, which gives me higher quality audio and a convenient headphone out and volume knob:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/

Schiit is a good quality brand, and that one would work fine.

However, if you look around I'm sure you can find one that's powered through the USB. There's no reason why a dac (without an amp) should need external power.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1466044995&sr=8-10&keywords=usb+dac Something like this maybe.

Thanks for the input.

Seems like getting a decent amp/dac might be the better option then, especially taking into account that I will inevitably upgrade headphones in the future for which the amp/dac will be essential.

Having said that, what would be a decent starting dac/amp? I have read some good reviews about the Audioengine D1, but would that kind of thing work for higher end headphones as well, or would I have to purchase more gear when I decide to upgrade my headphones?

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

micca rb42, micca origain a250 amp, micca speaker cables - 250. No need for a sub. It will blow your doors off.

If you are still having popping and hissing, add this - https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

To get MacBook air to optical out, you can use a USB to optical converter like this DAC (can't vouch for quality but reviews are good)
Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E2maCb7NXB9B8

For your second question, you could use an optical audio switch. Then you can use the remote to switch the inputs.
ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3X1 with IR Remote Control Aluminum Alloy SPDIF Switcher 3 In 1 Out with 6.6ft Optical Cable Supports PCM2.0 5.1CH DTS Dolby-AC3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F.maCbYFW5QB2

1. Check warranty. Don't remember what the Topping one is. Probably won't be any but just in case.
   
2. Try something like this to see if it resolves your issue.
   
3. Sadly, replace DAC.

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

Macbook dac's are actually incredibly great. Measurements put them above many external dacs sold. The impedance mismatch causes issues that makes high-impedance headphones sound so bad on macbooks. Although reduced, the majority of the problem is still there when the headphone's signal is still passing through the mac's amplifier, even if it's going into a second amp rather than the headphones. Really shitty of schiit to advertise those 3.5mm to RVC as a solution for people without an dedicated DAC. OP MUST buy a dac. Even something like this would massively increase his audio quality.

/u/carpenterio

Should be able to use something like this with the PS4’s optical out.

plenty out there, eg https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598

That said, you may just want a 12v DAC and then a separate amp, instead of trying to get two in one. here's a 5v: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DHt5CbCZFA5KC

Here's one from Amazon you won't be able to use chat or anything though only sound

So here's the deal. The TCL outputs audio externally via two methods. Either Optical digital audio out (toslink), or a headphone port. SO that leaves you utilizing one of those two ports.

​

• If you want to use the headphone port, you need a 3.5mm Male to Stereo RCA Male. Such as THIS. you plug the headphone (3.5mm) end into the TV, the RCAs into your crappy soundbar.
  
• Otherwise, to use the Digital output on the television, you need a DAC. You need a device to convert a digital signal from the tv (Toslink, aka Optical) to an analog signal (RCA Male-to-Male). You would run an Optical Cable from the TV to A DAC such as this, and then use the RCA Male-to-Male cables you presumably already have.
  
  ​
  
  In the future you'd be better served posting in r/soundbars . We really should get THAT subreddit going, and stop polluting r/hometheater with simplistic questions like this :)
  
  
  Good luck!

That optical cable doesn't convert the signal into something that your headphones can use, it is simply 2 different types of optical plugs at the ends.

This is the kind of thing you need, https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482430996&sr=8-5&keywords=Optical+to+3.5mm

If you want audio out of the PS4 you'll need to connect into the optical out.

You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502680031&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+audio+to+analog

Connect this into the Optical Out to the PS4 and set the Optical as the audio device in the settings. Then you'll connect your headphones to the device.

Here is the one I use, works fine for the toslink out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_k1oRDbFA92XG8

Do you have optical out on your motherboard? I had this issue for so long and finally fixed it with an optical to 3.5mm box like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I also use an old Fiio E6 and that's great for the price too, though there're probably better options at this point.

Not sure if im allowed go direct link it but

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0N.XCbQ5HG5CC

And that's for "output"? No. In fact, looking a the specs, it seems to have SPDIF (optical) out though. Also says that it has a headphone jack (but I wonder if it's the crummy thing that might be on the remote, like with other Roku devices).

If so, you can buy devices to convert optical SPDIF to something else. In my case I wanted a mini-jack. I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0

I'm guessing the output from this (16-bit, 44.1k) isn't as good as your on-board sound. If you're serious about getting a nice pair of headphones, I would at least look into something like this or this. There's no point in spending cash on a good pair of cans when you're going to be putting a less than optimal signal through them.

>Edit: Updated SMSL link.

>Edit 2: Third option.

I'm looking for a receiver or preamp with a remote control for volume control.

Im using optical --> FiiO D3 (D03K) --> DBX goRack --> Emotiva 6s Powered Monitors

I want to eliminate the goRack and the Fiio. I would also like multichannel out for a sub and potentially more powered monitors.

My budget is $200-300 USD Buying used is fine.

Yes, it will be per channel.

Wattage is largely irrelevant, the way powering speakers work is most people will only use a few watts per channel in a home environment. As you go louder, it takes exponentially more power to do so, it isn't a linear scale. Most speakers will produce 80-90db on only 1 watt.

The main concern is the resistance of the speaker, and this does matter. The standard is 8ohm and most equipment will expect this resistance. Most cheap speakers from Home Theatre in a Box systems for example are 4ohm, and could potential damage an amplifier if it isn't designed to support them. This is because a speaker of lower resistance will require more power to produce the same level of volume, so your amplifier has to work harder to power them.

The power listed on speakers is the MAX amount of power you want to feed them without damaging the speaker. Any more than that and you may blow them.

Large floorstanding speakers with lots of drivers may be bottlenecked by too weak an amplifier, but you could run most mainstream speakers off a 40 watt Lepy amplifier easy. Lepy amps are cheap as chips amps that are generally ment for car use, but are great for a cheap solution to power a couple speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Channel-Digital-Amplifier-Included/dp/B01AQARWHW/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1480112573&sr=8-2&keywords=lepy+amp&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

If your TV has RCA audio out than you can run it directly to the amp. If it doesn't you can use a simple optical to RCA adapter to convert the audio.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480112767&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+optical

Or just get the receiver of choice :P

I bought the FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter . It works great. I wasn't getting audio though the Samsung apps and tuner, I had to change the audio setting to get them to work
I don't have control over my audio with my remote right now because my lepai receiver is analog and the TV won't control it that way. Will be going to a full digital 5.1 in the near ish future. For right now, just using my amp manually.

The only way you'll be able to control the TV's volume with a remote is if 1) you output the TV's audio to a component that has a volume control, and 2) your TV's remote can control that component.

​

As u/GbMaxSE said, you could use a simple DAC such as this one, which would let you use your TV's optical audio output and send it to your speakers. You would then be able to control your volume using the knob on the M-Audios. Then you run into the problem of connecting your sub and controlling it's volume.

​

Your next option would be to use something like the Schiit Fulla. This just happens to be a DAC that also has a volume control. In this case, you would connect the Fulla to your TV's optical audio output, then split the signal coming out of the Fulla and route one set of RCA's to your M-Audios and the other to your sub. At this point, you've spent about $99 on the Fulla, $10 on cables, and $10 on shipping, and you still can't control the volume with your TV's remote.

​

Next up, for $150 you can buy this Denon receiver (free shipping), and then you also buy the Micca MB42 speakers for $60 (free shipping, with Prime) or find something on Craigslist. Now you're in it for $210. But now you have a home theater receiver powering some decent entry-level bookshelf speakers, and you can connect your subwoofer to the Denon's subwoofer output. You now have total volume control and most likely can use your TV's remote to control the volume of the Denon. Once you have a basic setup like this, you can upgrade any of the components (speakers, receiver, subwoofer, add more speakers, etc.) independently of one another.

​

We can keep going if you'd like! I love doing this stuff!

If it's DVI-I OR DVI-D you can, but you'll only get audio with that. You'll then have to use the optical out to a soundbar or speakers. If they don't have an optical in then you'll need a digital to analog converter like this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS.

Convoluted bullshit, I know, but it's the best you can do without buying a tv or something.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FMZX48I/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JTV7UM/ (2x of these)
.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/3-Way-Audio-Video-AV-RCA-Black-Switch-Selector-Box-Splitter-with-3-RCA-Cable-/380801577182?nav=SEARCH (throw away included cable)


DVD player coax digital > single cable > FIIO> dual mono price cable > input 2 of rca switcher > other dual mono price cable (from rca switcher out) > input of receiver. TV audio goes to input 1 of switcher.

Perhaps a classic receiver:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-PIONEER-SX-580-AM-FM-Stereo-Silver-Face-Receiver-serviced-/191972088158?nav=SEARCH

Paired with a DAC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474344453&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fiio+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41hlsUupiBL&ref=plSrch

Does your computer have the red and white out? If it doesn't, then don't try to convert it from 3.5mm to the red/white because you'll be double amplifying. If your motherboard has optical or digital coaxial output, spend the least money you probably ever will with this hobby and buy this DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can connect the amp directly to that and avoid double amplification.

You can get a pretty cheap RCA or 3.5mm jack to optical like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS

The quality is as good as the analog signal you feed it.

This is assuming when you say optical, you mean toslink cable.

I looked at both the Objective2 and the Magi, and the O2 seems to be a lot more versatile isn't?

• So if I go O2 i should get a DAC like yours
  
  
• If I go with the shiit Magni, I take the same DAC, but the Magni wont let me do anything else than use it on my computer, correct?
  
  
• If I'm lazy i could go with the 2in1 audinst mx1/ aunex1 . Anything that differenciates those two with taking 2 seperate devices?

The magni/modi is a great stack, but probably overkill for the HD598. If you want to try to dip into the audiophile market you can start with something like Hifimediy. (link: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ)

The nice think about the hifimediy is that if you upgrade your headphone and amp, the hifime can still serve as an ok dac further down the line.

What's your total budget? If you plan on moving these speakers to the TV, I would skip the amp/dac combo and just buy a receiver. This one for $120 is good value:http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html

If you're focusing the system for your desktop at the moment and don't want to add too much more to the budget, this cheap DAC is as good as it gets for the money: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ

> Audioquest Dragonfly Black

I haven't heard one but they get great reviews.
HiFimeDIY also get good reviews. Half the price of Dragonfly. 24/96 capable https://www.amazon.de/HiRes-USB-DAC-SABRE-ES9023-112dB/dp/B00AOH5JTQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=ce-accessories&srs=5656639031&ie=UTF8&qid=1493289789&sr=1-1

Ah, okay. I think the "mini jack" output means you can just get something like this.

Optical is a better option, but since it's a digital output, you'd need a DAC to convert to analog for the amp. If you want to go that route, cheap ones are around $30, and the best you'll ever need is around $100.

I found this Converter which you would have your TV use an Optical cable out (like you would use for a soundbar). Then you could plug your 3.5mm speakers into it. The question becomes (and I have been unable to find this) if it will split the 5 channels properly. That may be down to your TV's settings and if the box can handle it (edit: meaning if it only does stereo and not 5.1)

​

It looks like when you use something like this, you will need to manage your volume settings on your speakers and turn your TV sound down (or you will have sound coming out of your TV speakers AND your computer speakers, but that may be OK if there's no output lag).

You could use something like this, but only if you can configure your TV to only output stereo (not DD 5.1 or anything like that)

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Converter-Optical-TOSLink-Coaxial/dp/B00BVT4M30/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409448999&sr=8-2&keywords=FIIO+D3+%28D03K%29+Digital+to+Analog+Audio+Converter

I'm looking into buying this because it comes with an optical cable, and then just plugging my headphones into the line out. Hopefully that will work without any lag, because the HDMI lag is unbearable.

So I do have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

I haven’t actually tried using it as a loopback device, I only use it to play music to a devialet phantom speaker from an iOS device, but I think with a headphone splitter it would work.

What I actually use is Rogue Amoeba’s Loopback app. It’s pricey, but it does work great. Soundflower also works, but is not as good (you get what you pay for basically).

And yeah, it is insane that Apple provides no API for this purpose and everyone is shipping these BS kexts to work around the problem. I could too, but I really hate 3rd party kexts and I’d rather not add to the mess.

Supposing Apple made a user space API for system audio capture, I would definitely be all over it. I’m 100% sure they are aware of the problem, they’re just being stubborn/lazy for some reason.

I don't think you'll find a simple solution to do what you want.

I accomplish this myself using a playbar. I have a home theater PC that connects to my TV with an HDMI cable and my TV has an optical output which then connects to the playbar.

You can achieve a similar setup by connecting your laptop to your TV (using your TV as an external monitor for your laptop display) then buying a playbar (or playbase) and connecting your TV optical output to your new sonos device. If you don't have a TV or do not want to use a TV for this, then you can buy an external soundcard or an external DAC (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE) which will offer optical output.

I'm a little confused when you say you're looking for a "room speaker". What does that mean and why do you feel a playbar/playbase would not be good? A playbar or playbase sound GREAT by themselves and will definitely fill a small to moderate size room with good sound. In the future, if you then get another play-1, you'll be able to pair the playbar/base, and two play ones to be surround sound. Eventually, you can get a sub and have a pretty good setup for sound (kinda 5.1'ish)

An example of what I’m taking about

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mtjEDbAY4AM16

An AVR will work for all of these directly, if you run your PC's HDMI through it. If you stick with USB for PC sound, you'll also want a USB sound card to connect the PC, and you can connect them to a stereo receiver rather than an AVR. The sound card could also be a DAC, or a lot of receivers have built in DACs that accept digital audio.

So AVR, or USB sound card and receiver (stereo or AV).

https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-N303BL-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B074F246M9/

https://smile.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/

getting any dac would help compared to shitty onboard audio, but amp doesnt matter too much for this

source: had m50x and shitty onboard laptop sound, bought a random cheap dac from amazon and it sounded loads better

Probably this one. And don't forget an optical cable if you don't have one. You'll be guaranteed 100% clean flawless digital output. Also since optical is nonconductive, you can't have any ground loops or other electrical issue coming from your computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Chromecast audio for streaming from various services, and a wired connection to the PC for everything else. Is something wrong with the built in sound card? If your computer is recent, it will be perfectly fine and you'll just need a 3.5mm to dual RCA cable. Otherwise get this little device (use the optical connection if you have one just to avoid any potential ground issues) and a pair of RCA cables.

Easiest thing would be to get a USB dac/headphone amp with a line out in case you add a nicer amp or speakers later.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

Either of these will work, the e10k does up to 96khz 24 bit resolution, has a volume knob, looks nice, and has a good reputation with its measurements and many reviews.

the signstek only does 44.1khz/16bit accurately but that won't matter for most people. I have the signstek one and it works fine with my dt770s, no noise and seems clearer than my motherboard audio. Plenty loud enough at 20% windows volume too.

If your budget allows for the e10k, get it. The signstek amp is just really nice for the <$30 category, which is almost non-existent for usb dacs.

If you want to check one out without spending all out...I started with this...https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449907663&sr=8-1&keywords=muse+dac ...very good for the money

I have this same setup and use the below DAC to connect to my PC, works great and will improve sound quality as it is most likely better than your motherboards on-board DAC, it also has a 3.5mm for headphones and in my case was plenty to drive my cans
www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=pd_sim_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51A8VIDw6OL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0HCHW4XJV8AK99ZZ41BH

If you're passing through USB already, a cheap USB DAC will work out of the box in OS X. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE/

I'm not familiar with your onboard soundcard chip so I don't want to give a premature judgment, but my own PCs soundcard is absolutely atrocious. Just pitiful. Compared to my iPhone (which usually packs a very good DAC chip compared to other smartphones), my PC sounds like utter garbage. So chances are, you probably have a not-so-uncommon case of the phone's DAC chip being noticeably better than your PC's DAC chip. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, but want your PC to sound as good or better than your smartphone, you can get these very cheap external sound cards that do the job nicely. They are based off the PCM2704 USB DAC chip and sound very good for the price and also offer a plethora of outputs for your future audio needs like coaxial etc. Or you can just get a relatively expensive DAC and be done with the DAC problem for good.

If your TV only has optical output use one of these between tv and speakers

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

You may still have to go into settings into sound and change it from TV speakers to sound system or optical out or something - whatever the choice besides TV speakers is

I agree with this guy. Optical port is a good solution. I use it with an old Turtle Beach Stealth 500p (Playstation headset) that has a USB device which accepts optical in.

Convertors can also be had fairly cheaply to convert to jack/phono output : https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Just remember that you will only get sound, microphone will not work.

It's most likely that when your graphics card gets to work, it causes noise in the power supply (possibly because of a poorly designed GPU, a poorly designed or underrated PSU, or both) or induces noise in the motherboard's sound card (becuase mobos are cramped and costs are cut).

The only guaranteed solution will be to extract a digital signal from your PC and do the D-to-A conversion somewhere else. For example, you could try a USB sound card or music interface like the Focusrite Scarlett. Alternatively, you may be able to take an optical digital signal out and buy a cheap optical to RCA DAC like this. Or, you could stream the sound wirelessly with bluetooth audio adapters.

Splitting the HDMI is going to cause problems due to the HDCP and the fact you're trying to split the audio from video.

I would suggest something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Going from the optical output rather than trying to split the audio from the HDMI I would say is a better option as a cheap device will work fine as there is no need to split the audio from the video or protection that needs stripping first from the optical output.

If you're fine with the speakers you have now, why not just get an optical to 3.5mm DAC

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491029714&sr=8-3&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

You will need a optical to analog converter

Something like this should do it

PROZOR DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio R/L Converter Adapter with Optical Cable- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lZPBb2BTQ1KN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fVfyCbFP4JEGT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBH4SFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bZfyCbDA8VAYY

Will these suffice?

Thanks a bunch for your help.

The volume should be fine - but some headphone jacks on TVs seem to struggle when connected to line level inputs. If you don't need remote volume control via the TV remote you might get better results with one of these connected to the digital audio output of the TV https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Doesn't matter. Optical is fine. I have one of these to use some computer speakers on my girlfriend's TV.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8kCYBbP4FZP41

try THIS. Had it back in the ps3 days, used it with the exact speaker you have.

I've just bought a pair of JBL LSR305 along with a JBL NanoPatch + off of Thomann. They sound ridiculously great when I connect them to my phone (using a 3.5mm TRS male-male cable), but when I hook them to my computer (to the motherboard's audio output) there's a lot of buzzing noise, that HEAVILY (and I mean heavily) increases whenever the graphics card is working hard, such as in games.

I've been reading a lot about this kind of noises. I've read about issues with grounding, but all my wall outlets are properly grounded. The computer and the speakers are connected to the same power strip, but I've tried connecting the speakers to a different wall outlet and the result is the same. I've tried with different cables and the same result.

I think the problem is that the electromagnetic interference within the computer is affecting the audio signal. However this has never happened before with other PC speakers or headphones (I used to have a pair of Gigaworks t40II and a pair of Sennheiser HD380 Pro).

I've read that using an external DAC could help. I used to have a Fiio e10k but I didn't really like it and it ended up breaking. Do you think I could solve this using a cheap Toslink-To-RCA DAC like this one?

Thanks in advance

I use the cheapest DAC i could find. No volume control and just SPDIF in and 3.5 and RCA out https://www.amazon.de/Analog-Stereo-Audio-R-L-Konverter-Adapter-optischem-Heimkino-Systeme-AV-Verst%C3%A4rker-schwarz/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Not if it has an optical or coaxial input. However, if you want to play it safe though, get a cheap one.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542313071&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+optical+usb&psc=1&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ

Then, it doesn't matter what receiver you end up with.

If your motherboard doesn't have an S/P DIF optical audio output, add a sound card that has one ($30).

Optical audio cables are usually not included ($6).

If your speakers and/or headset don't have an optical input, you'll need an external DAC/AMP. There are models for all budgets from $12 for a simple converter, no Amp, to $70 for a DAC+AMP, to $toodamnhigh for an audiophile solution.

Note that an external DAC can have a USB port for your PC but don't use it since it would create an electrical connection. Only use the optical cable, and plug the DAC's power cord preferably in a different wall socket than the one used by the PC.

Recap:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Sound Card | Asus - Xonar DG 24-bit 96 kHz Sound Card | $29.57 @ OutletPC
Custom | PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV | $12.99 @ Amazon
Custom | FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder (Silver) | $64.99 @ Amazon
Custom | Edifier R1280DB Powered Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Optical Input - Wireless Studio Monitors - 4 Inch Near Field Speaker - 42w RMS - Wood Grain (Black) | $129.99 @ Amazon
Custom | AmazonBasics CL3 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Toslink Cable - 6 Feet | $5.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $253.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $243.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 20:45 EDT-0400 |

If it's not enough you can add a potentiometer but it's not recommended unless it really annoys you. It will remove any remaining white noise at the cost of lower volume. Lower volume means you will have to increase the volume to hear at the same level, and it will kill part of the spectrum: there's quality loss.
Example: you're a watching a movie scene where nobody speaks and everything is silent but the microphone still detects and records the natural ambient noise that air makes or people quietly breathing. The potentiometer would kill that.

This guy definitely knows what he's talking about. I personally rock the Superlux HD668B. The treble on them is a little high, but as your ears adjust to them, they sound excellent, especially for their $50 price tag. They beat out many $100-250 headphones.

However, the HD700s are some of the best headphones ever made, and will be good for pretty much anything; gaming, music, late-night movie watching, so if you're able to burn some money, definitely get those as they will likely be your go-to headphones for years to come.

Also, the headphone jack on the PS4 controller is pretty weak, not really meant to power great headphones, and it also uses Bluetooth which compresses the audio quality. If you have a home theater receiver connected, you can use that to plug your headphones into and it'll do you well. If not, I'd suggest getting a headphone amplifier. You can probably buy something like the Prozer DAC, which is remarkably cheap for it's quality. They have a $20 version as well, but headphones don't come anywhere near being able to hear that kind of fidelity (192 kHz, CD quality is 44.1 kHz), so it's really useless outside of maybe a studio where they have specialized gear for that sort of thing.

If you're going to be using headphones, you can get a cheap USB condenser mic, plug it into the PS4, and just set it near you on a table or something. The Samson GoMic is great, and very portable (about the size of a bite-sized Butterfinger candy-bar).

The headphones he listed though will absolutely get you where you need to go and a wide range of prices. And they all range from "damn good" to "excellent."

Of course, there are a plethora of "gaming" headphones, but most of them are junk because they cut a ton of corners on parts so they afford to put in "virtual surround sound", license Dolby, the microphone, and the software in the headphones to process/EQ the audio to bring you the sound "as intended" which is marketing bullshit, because the audio that comes out of the PS4 is what was intended, it doesn't need any additional processing. It's the same tactic Beats uses, and sadly, people fall for it. Gaming headphones, 99.999% of them, are just marketing scams with fancy buzzwords, really.

So yeah, TL;DR, grab the headphones you want, a headphone amp/DAC if you need, and a mic, and you'll have an audio setup that will blow most people's headphone setups away.

Edit: Fixed since I made this post on no sleep and there were some errors. lol

If he has the money tell him to upgrade his amp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RSJBX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PDTRAb52S2FV7
This guy is on sale today, very solid option. I push for upgrades in this situation because a decent install takes quite a bit of work, enough work to make the end user want a good payoff. Little band-aid fixes are fine if that's the only option but from personal experience they add up and have their own issues. That said, here's your band-aid: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iHTRAbX6F9BKW (RCA cables not included).

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "DAC"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Try tape out

Try the headphone jack

Try one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

Looks like those have 3.5mm and RCA inputs. You have two options:

1. Run a cable from the speakers' input to the headphone jack on your controller, and send all audio to "headphones." Downside: you basically end up with a wired controller.
   
   
2. Buy this, plug it into the PS4's optical audio output and your speakers' input. Use a USB port on the front of the PS4 for power.

I got one of these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) optical (toslink) to analog audio converters (runs off USB power). My main xbox audio comes through HDMI to TV/Soundbar, so I wasn't using the optical out on the xbox. I just switched it to stereo out on optical. Then use the provided audio cable with the buttkicker on that converter and into the buttkicker input.


For the Buttkicker settings, I found these online and they seem to work great (sorry for lack of credit, was in a forum somewhere):
Low cutoff switch ON
High Cutoff switch ON
High Cutoff freq . Knob 40 Hz

If you're willing to invest I use this and it works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and used the Optical audio output on the XB1 into the adapter and then a 3.5mm cable to go from adapter to the AUX in on my PC speakers and it works perfect. I can even hear the audio from the Xbox at the same time as audio from my PC so no need for changing inputs on my speakers or anything.

What big square thing? Are you talking about the optical port. This would probably be your best bet. Note: I have not used this so I can’t comment on how it works, but it seems to be what you need. And it is only $13 on Amazon + it has prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t1_B00NJCCAKY

Another plus, I believe optical has the best transmission speed.

Just to be sure I have this all right.

I need this adapter.

And this and this

Sorry to be a nuisance

Just check whether the TV has a headphone socket. I'd be really surprised not to find one.

If not, you'll need one of these.

Something like this should work with the speakers you just bought him. With this device you plug it into the xbox one with a optical digital audio cable and your speakers into this device. Now the audio will go directly from the xbox to the speakers without having to go through the controller. If you still have issues with audio going inoand out then I think the problem is with the speakers.

Not sure your location but something like this would work.

Easyday Digital to Analog Audio Converter with Digital Optical Toslink and S/pdif Coaxial Inputs and Analog RCA and AUX 3.5mm (Headphone) Outputs - 6 Foot Heavy Duty Optical Toslink Cable with Gold Plated Connector Tips Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJCCAKY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_tePvyb2WMCQQP

Yeah, that won't work directly, something like this may work to convert it.

Pretty tough pricepoint. I'd probably get the Yamaha r-s201BL https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S201BL-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00F0H88SY and SMSL sanskrit 6th gen https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B00SY9RBOM . You could go cheaper on the amp but then you'd lose the remote.

what is your budget? I am a big proponent of passive speakers with a separate amp/dac. They sound the best to me. They do tend to take a lot of space though, so it may be tough with a smaller desk. If you want powered speakers though, the edifiers have been the best in my experience.

My current setup is:

AMP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(note: this amp doesnt support subwoofers, so look elsewhere if you want a 2.1 system. In my experience I haven't felt the need for one, but YMMV)

DAC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY9RBOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2UBS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheaper but still solid speaker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NCD2LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 AND https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526322009&sr=1-2&keywords=micca

I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.

Budget: $50 - $100

Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)

My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.

 

The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.

My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?

Aune's had some problems with the community lately and their prices don't fluctuate often. You can grab the O2 + ODAC combo w/ jacks on massdrop for around 200$ when they drop. I wouldn't go for the JDSlabs ones, kind of expensive. A Simple schiit stack smear is always nice but don't get the Uber versions unless you really need em. I'd only need one usb input for source and you can always split the dac out. The element is lovely but you're paying a high premium for user experience. I've heard really really great things about the Micca OriGen. It's a lovely 100$ usb powered dac/amp. In fact, it has similar user experience to the element. Though I've heard it has some funny issues with the pre-outs, I'd definitely recommend this one (based on what I've heard/read). Lots of great options under 250$. Here's a humble dac/amp from SMSL. Any specific features you require?

Also, check out the T50RP MkIII. You won't regret it.

edit: words + adding in the SD793/ mur wurds

The thing that studio monitors really lack in home setting is a physical volume control. You could spend $50 on something like the Schiit Sys but if you have the funds, get something like a Micca OriGen since it gives you a good DAC and headphone amp while allowing you to control the Genelec volume using the knob on the DAC.

I doubt that cables are included, but you would need a 3.5mm to RCA like this. You would pull the ends apart since the speakers would be at least a few feet apart.

Micca OriGen should be right up your alley.

Found this sub from somewhere on /all. Nice work /u/ZeosPantera!

Question for you. I have the Asus Xonar DG sound card which apparently has a built in amp.

If I mostly play games on the PC (70% of the time), and watch videos for the remaining time, do I need something like the Micca Origen+?

I use the Bose QC15 and Blue Snowball. I also have the Bose Companion 2 Series III, but I hardly ever use them; they're just sitting on my desk unplugged.

Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B00V7K5UJI Obviously a U.S. link, but its the Micca Origen. I've had it since December and its great.

I'm in the same boat as you, trying to figure out what to pair my X2 with. I've been considering the Micca Origen. I've read from a couple places (head-fi/Z reviews) that its 'better' than the FiiO e10k. I also heard the e10k with the X2 produces a pretty harsh treble so that may be worth considering. I'm wondering if there's any real benefit in saving up for an o2/odac or schiit stack since I'm pretty much using the X2 exclusively...

Check out this as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V7K5UJI/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=X9Y8WBJVRJ0MBCXTFH3E

Besides HDMI output which has video and audio in one cable, the Xbox One (original and S) has an Optical Audio output jack. If you need to convert this to a standard 3.5mm headphone jack, Amazon has a ton of options for adapters, so I would do some research on the site for best selling / highest rated. Here is an example - optical audio in, RCA out, comes with an RCA-to-headphone jack cable so you could plug in headphones, PC speakers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=zg_bs_306896011_4

Sorry if this is way more complicated than necessary but just letting you know these cheap adapters exist for sure. I like this one because of all of the extra cables it comes with. Hope this helps!

PS - if you use this, be sure to go into Xbox audio settings and enable the "optical" audio output.

PPS - you will also lose surround sound when using this device. but if you're just connecting to stereo headphones, a single speaker etc. this should suffice.

No you need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483414863&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

It's doable but only through 2 separate adapters.

1st you'll need a RCA Composite to HDMI adapter to convert the video signal to SD.

Then to get the audio out you'll need an Optical Audio to RCA Adapter to convert the audio signal

You can get a preamp and use something like this for sound;

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523964180&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=optical+to+RCA&psc=1

You run everything to the TV that you can, and then run the optical out from the TV to this box and this box via RCA cables to the preamp.

This WILL NOT get you surround sound formats or anything like that, but it will get a decent stereo signal from the TV, and anything connected to it, to the preamp. Then you still get to use the 305's and still have a volume knob to adjust it. A decent stereo preamp can be super cheap, or insane expensive, just like any other audio product.

LSR305 is considered the best for that budget, but it's at $280 at the moment and you'd need something like this as well to hook them up. If you're cool with waiting for them to drop in price or buy used, that'd be my recommendation.

You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.

EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.hoybTRY8KHP

EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MaioybPMHMGQ0

EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.

You need an optical to RCA converter.

I had this same issue for a while. I bought a Micca OriGen+. USB or optical from the computer and a little switch to change between pre-amp out (to powered speakers) and DAC+AMP (for headphones). Everything stays plugged in at all times and I just hit a switch to change what I want to listen to. Sitting at about $110 on amazon.

Edit: the preamp out runs though the DAC as well.

They just popped up on Amazon.ca a couple days ago! I ordered mine today!

https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=sr_1_1?m=ABLOYB9H8YPEZ&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1466390324&sr=1-1

There aren't really any high-quality wireless headphones on the market. There certainly aren't any wireless headphones that compete with wired headphones. For $298, you could get this setup:

Headphones: Audio-Technica AD900X

Microphone: Antlion Modmic

DAC/Amp: Micca OriGen+

Those components will destroy the 840 in every regard except mobility.

yeah

i'm not an audiophile by any means but because of recommendations I saw on reddit i got a pair of sennheiser 558's (50% off thanks to this sub) and an antlion modmic off ebay for less than $120 total. I'm very happy with the setup. You could get a cheaper mic with another set of headphones (the Phillps SHP9500 get recommended a LOT and they currently go for less than $80 on amazon) but thats what I have and it works for me.

If you're upgrading to a real deal set of headphones you might need something like this if you get interference. The cool part is you can switch between speakers and headphones with the flick of a switch.

If you need a basic Starter AMP/DAC, [FiiO K1] (https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG) or [Schiit Fulla] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla)

If you want a Better starter AMP/DAC when you get better headphones in the future and possibly want speakers as well, [FiiO E10K] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_sim_23_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LP3AMC2&pd_rd_r=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA&pd_rd_w=SUoRO&pd_rd_wg=3Gad4&psc=1&refRID=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA), [SMSL M3] (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481332017&sr=1-1&keywords=smsl+m3), [Schiit Fulla 2] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2) or [Micca Origen+] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

EDIT: SMSL M3 can drive passive speakers, though the Micca Origen+ can drive powered speakers if that helps

Headphones are Sennheiser HD 650s, speakers are JBL LSR305s, and right now I'm using the Micca OriGen+ for my DAC/Amp. For earbuds I just use some random pair I got off massdrop.com for like 30 bucks.

Pretty satisfied for now, but I'm hoping to upgrade to the Crack 1.1 OTL for an amp and the HRT Music Streamer II + for the DAC so that I can get the full quality out of my HD 650s.

Satisfied with the JBLs and the Micca for a speaker setup for now, at least as far as digital stuff goes. A good few years down the road I might want to get around to building an analog setup from scratch since my old one is completely defunct and scrapped. For which I'd probably grab some passive speakers, but I also need to get an all new turntable and possibly a new CD player, so I don't even want to start thinking about it.

I watched hours of Z Reviews on YouTube to figure out what a DAC/Amp is needed for and pulled the trigger on this one. I have these headphones and was not impressed with the sound. An amp is the solution, though they are still good for hearing footsteps in CS:GO, they're lacking for music and movies.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BURJVOC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://youtu.be/yxoU-oA6Z_c

they make RCA cables up to 100' ... that being said, i generally recommend keeping your length under 25' for RCAs.

you can get a module to convert your analog RCA out to TOSlink digital

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW/

and then a long TOSlink cable

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Digital-Optical-TosLink-Theater/dp/B015SQDW3M/

I think that a conversor like this can work. https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW/

FiiO is going to be the most recommended here. SMSL is another option with the SMSL SD-793II which runs a bit cheaper (here in the US at least), but it depends on Optical or Coax input (no USB). If there's an issue with your sound chipset, it may be a good idea to test the optical or digital connections somehow first.

Another option, and the one I would personally recommend for situation (since this sounds like more of a solution to the headphones working than the pursuit of top-notch audio) is one of the cheap Chinese DAC/Amps you see like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1540390738&sr=8-15&keywords=dac+headphone+amp

​

I have a couple of friends that use these to drive their gaming headphones (ATH-A900 and AKG 701) and they get the job done according to them. They are not audiophiles or anything though, they just say the little box helps pump up the volume and is more convenient than the jacks on the PC. The specs listed show 30mW as maximum output but doesn't list ohms. Either way I can't imagine they have gobs of power but they should be an improvement on a busted mobo soundchip. I have one (gifted by one of my gamer friends) but I've not tested it myself.

> but it has to be powered to convert the signal to Optical.

Yeah. This is the one I got I guess it was $20, not $25. It's USB powered, so you may be able to run it off your TV.

The rub is, most TVs won't adjust volume on TOSLINK. I went this route because my TV didn't have an analog out, and I wanted to connect to a pair of PC speakers.

If that's working for you it could work with an adapter but honestly that looks like trash, you want a DAC to be isolated, not acting as a USB hub. You probably want something with RCA outs to plug into the speakers directly via RCA cable without additional adapters. If your motherboard has an optical audio out you could still go cheap with something like this or if the volume knob is something you use a lot you could go this direction (though I wouldn't recommend it personally).

But if your setup works for you and you don't have noticeable noise (like when there's silent audio) you're probably fine if you have an RCA adapter. That said, if you've got some more cash to spend buying an actual quality DAC/Amp can be pretty dang enjoyable.

hey cnobilski- I had a similar situation with my dad's old Technics SU-8088. Initially I was running it through a vizio 42"- which had the 1/8" out jack. Then i bought a samsung 55" 8000 series (for a steal of more than 50% off/$400 total @costco) but the 1/8" jack no longer worked for audio out.

After a LOT of rabbit-holing i bought a D.A.C. for $25 that allowed coaxial or tosilink in and has aux/headphone and rca out, and ended up working perfectly. The DAC also has a volume control - it needs to be plugged in, and does not amplify per se, but great functionality overall.

I'm not certain this is necessary for you specific situation- but may be useful if you need more choices for connectivity. 1/8" to tosilink cables are also available. I feel like the optical (tosilink) out provides good sound, but am unsure if adding an extra stage in the signal path (the DAC) lowers the quality and or optical source to analog improves the sound quality. There many more DACs that focus on HDMI in/out as well- but i was using the only HDMI out to feed my soundbar- not necessary now since I upgraded to Wharfedale Denton 80th speakers (not budget friendly, but...so worth it- i promptly returned my ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers- not even close)

Good luck and i hope this is somewhat useful or at least interesting to you. I love the warmth and overall sound of my 2.1 channel system now. It's incredibly satisfying and to echo what so many others newish to "upgraded" audio listening have said- I'm hearing all of my favorite music for the first time again.

PS- because my 8088 was always static-y and due to my ignorance, I wrongly assumed that technics was a bargain brand. Once i did a little research I realized what a monster HQ amp i had. Were you aware that you had such a HQ piece before you hooked it up?

This is probably as overkill as it gets before starting to lose performance.

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i9-9940X 3.3 GHz 14-Core Processor | $1815.75 @ shopRBC
Motherboard | Asus - ROG RAMPAGE VI EXTREME OMEGA EATX LGA2066 Motherboard | $1027.44 @ Amazon Canada
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 128 GB (8 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $1179.87 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Samsung - 970 Evo 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $659.99 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Samsung - 970 Evo 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $659.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Dual OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $1569.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Dual OC Video Card | $1569.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case | Corsair - 1000D ATX Full Tower Case | $412.33 @ Amazon Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA T2 1600 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $465.18 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | Asus - PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor | $799.99 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | Asus - PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor | $799.99 @ Amazon Canada
Main Monitor | Asus - ROG SWIFT PG27UQ 27.0" 3840x2160 144 Hz Monitor | $2398.99 @ Powertop
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $269.99 @ Amazon Canada
Mouse | Logitech - G502 LIGHTSPEED Wireless Optical Mouse | $199.99 @ Amazon Canada
Headphones | Sennheiser - HD 650 Headphones | $492.29 @ Amazon Canada
Microphone | Rode NT-USB USB Condenser Microphone | $225.00 @ Amazon Canada
Headphone Amp | Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter | $229.99 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream SE 480 (Slim Quad) Radiator | $132.28 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Cable Splitter 4-Fan PWM Extended, 2-pack | $32.99 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 PWM 140mm Fan, 2500 RPM, 2-pack | $88.00 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 PWM 140mm Fan, 2500 RPM, 2-pack | $88.00 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Velocity CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Copper/Plexi | $138.42 @ Amazon Canada
Mousepad| Logitech Powerplay Wireless Charging Mat| $203.00
Custom Loop| EK-CoolStream CE 420 | $135.00
Custom Loop| EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM| $255.00
Custom Loop| EK Vector RTX RE Ti RGB| $230.00
Custom Loop| EK Vector RTX RE Ti RGB| $230.00
Custom Loop| EK-Vector RTX Backplate – Nickel| $72.00
Custom Loop| EK-Vector RTX Backplate – Nickel| $72.00
Custom Loop| EK-FC Terminal X2 3-slot – Plexi| $50.00
Custom Loop| EK-DuraClear 9,5/15,9mm 3M RETAIL| $27.00
Custom Loop| EK-CryoFuel Solid Cloud White (250mL) BUY 5| $20.00
| Total | $16914.49

This uses a custom cooling loop, it is not very hard to make since I used soft tubing, but if you don't want to use that, you can get 2 of THIS or THIS GPU and THIS CPU Cooler and just remove all the Custom Loop parts.

For the main monitor, I chose a 4K 144Hz monitor and 2 secondary 1440p 165Hz monitors which can also be used for gaming or can be used when you stream.

For the CPU I chose a 14 core i9 CPU, which has the best balance of cores and clock speed of the i9 CPUs, you could get more cores but the clock speed will drop a lot and so will your gaming performance.

The N22 is kind of a waste since it's a speaker amp and your speakers are powered.

A Topping DX3 Pro is a headphone amp/DAC (no speaker amp) that has a great headphone amp and DAC. That would be a better piece of kit for you for only a little more money than the N22. https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3

For less money than what you spent, the Audioengine D1: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2/r

After I finished building my PC, I still wanted to build but had nothing else to put into it... so I went a little buck with the peripherals.

Mouse: Cyborg R.A.T 9

I got this mouse for two reasons: it's extremely ergonomic, versatile and comfortable to use and it looks like it could probably transform into a Decepticon.

Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow 2012 Ultimate

The keyboard was actually a gift, I have really enjoyed everything about it though. Besides the glossy finish that does get really mucked up, I have no complaints.

Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Extended; Control Edition

I wanted my mouse and keyboard to both be on my mousepad so I opted for this giant ass thing. It's worked really well for me, besides collecting crumbs when I snack and game...

Speakers: Audioengine A5+ Bamboo Edition

Picked these guys up for a steal, they sounds completely phenomenal. Owning these speakers kind of pushed me into the world of high end audio, which eventually lead to me getting my DAC and my headphones.

DAC: Audioengine D1 DAC & Integrated Amplifier

Got the DAC here on Massdrop for like 40% off or something, I've found that it really rounds out the low end of the speakers and gives them more transparency overall.

Headphones: Sennheiser HD598s

I can't speak highly enough of these headphones. If you're into electro or metal, these probably aren't for you merely because of the fact that they are a very neutral sounding set of cans. The low end is definitely there, but it's not pounding and overpowering like many other headphones I've owned. I still swap over to my old HD408's for anything I want to rattle my skull with.

Headphone Stand: Cheap Knockoff of the Seivking Omega stand

Same thing, off Massdrop for a good price. It's a cheap Chinese version of a very high end stand but it has actually been really nice to keep my headphones on and compliments the speakers really well.

Headset: SteelSeries Siberia v2 Frost

Very comfortable headset, and really good surround effects on them. I could always tell where Elizabeth was in Bioshock Infinite because they have great directional sound.

I'm also running 2 of these fans on my desk to keep everything nice and cool during those hot summer days. Throw some LED accent lighting, a couple of USB hubs and some monitor mounts and you've pretty much got everything that sits on my desk.

Oh, and I almost forgot the best part! It probably gets the most use of any of my peripherals =]

Hope this helps your decision! I would certainly recommend a mechanical keyboard, you'll never go back after you've tried one out and there's many inexpensive options for them out there!

Jesus, this turned into a really long comment...

No. Optical carries a digital audio signal, while your speakers take an analog signal. The 3.5mm optical jack is for combined headphone/optical jacks, which are mostly on Macbooks. You're going to need a DAC (a digital-to-analog converter), which is basically an external sound card.

Unfortunately, most the good budget DACs I can think of are USB-only. I did a little digging, and it looks like probably your best bet for under $200 is the Audioengine D1 (here's a detailed review and here's the Amazon link).

I use the M40x at my office and they are a really great closed back pair of headphones. If you decide to go with them, I would also pick up a pair of HM5 Pads (idk why they are rated 3-star, they are 4.5-star with 500 reviews on the American amazon), as the pads included with the M40x are trash.

Now, when it comes to DACs/Amps you should know that in general the biggest change in sound signature that you're going to hear is going to come from the headphones you choose. The next in line would be the Amp and then in last place would be the DAC (this is a generalization). That being said and without knowing what your price range is I'll make a few suggestions:

Headphone DAC/Amp combos

• FiiO E10K = €80
  
• Audioengine D1 = €160
  
• Aune x1s = €280
  
  If you're serious about audio and want think you may start upgrading headphones in the near-ish future, I would stear you more toward the Aune x1s as it's a very good DAC and Amp. If you think you'll be content with your setup for a year or so, then I would say the FiiO is your best bet.

Buy used audio equipment. go to a thrift store and look for a receiver with optical inputs and pre outs. otherwise I have used one of these with much success. both options cheap and will convert digital audio.

As far as I know, both common digital formats are SPDIF. SPDIF can run over fiber (TOSLINK) or wire (with RCA connectors).

I haven't exactly done a broad survey of all available receivers, but it seems like most receivers these days come with optical (TOSLINK) SPDIF inputs. So you can probably just stick with that.

Another option with newer TVs and receivers is to hook up with HDMI. Some TVs and receivers support "ARC" (Audio Return Channel) where the audio can go "backwards" over the HDMI cable from the TV to the receiver. Usually each one only has 1 or 2 HDMI ports that support ARC.

And yes, you can buy adapters to convert from optical SPDIF to wire SPDIF.

Speaking of which, another option when sticking with the current receiver is to buy a separate digital-to-analog converter, like this one. You'd hook the TV's output to that, then hook its output to the receiver's input. One limitation of this is you will probably not be able to use the TV's remote to control the volume.

You'll need a DAC for the sound. www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404421213&sr=8-2&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

I think this is what you want? You'll need to purchase an optical cable, also. This will only do audio, though.

Supposedly, the MS stereo headset adapter will do chat and audio, but I haven't tried that. I had to get the converter for my surround sound system, so I use that like the 360 dongle for the surround sound and my x12s.

What on earth is a SPDIF to 3.5mm adapter? SPDIF is a digital signal and 3.5mm is a jack size associated with an analog signal.

Edit: Maybe you got a product like this? https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B008EPW7TA That's a cheap DAC with SPDIF input. Sounds like you got a poor quality DAC. I'd suggest returning it and getting a higher quality one.

They make optical to 3.5mm adapters https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B008EPW7TA

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA

Your console needs to have optical out, though. I don't think the PS4 slim supports optical, does it?

One thing you could do is track down an S/PDIF->3.5mm adapter, and route your PS4's audio through your laptop's line-in port. I do a similar thing with my PS3 right now - video to my monitor with HDMI, and audio into my PC from RCA->3.5mm. Works pretty much perfectly.

Here's one on amazon.ca for about $40, which will let you plug in headphones directly, so no need to route it to your laptop's speakers. Kind of expensive for a small budget, but the alternative is buying a more-expensive monitor that has speakers, which will more than likely mean the panel quality is worse.

i just bought this one a few weeks ago and am perfectly satisfied with it
http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/

You need something like this OREI Digital to Analog Audio Converter - Optical SPDIF/Coaxial to RCA L/R with 3.5mm Jack Support Headphone/Speaker Output DA21 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EPW7TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3d-ZzbY2608XX

I'm assuming you need this so that you can get audio out to RCA. From one of the many previous posts I've made about this...

An Optcial DAC will do what you need just fine. Does the digital to analog conversion from optical out to 3.5mm/RCA out. Plug this into a headphone/passive speaker amp or powered speakers over 3.5mm or RCA, and you're good to go.

>but is it not possible to run the microphone and the Elgato separate from each other?

of course. That's what everyone does. I'm not sure you understood what I said.

Basically, if you want to LP a PS4 game with commentary, you're going to need to use a headset/headphones to keep the game audio from leaking into your mic. Plugging in a headset, however, also keeps the game audio from making it to the Elgato, and therefore results in video game footage without audio. In other words, you need to find a way to send audio to the Elgato while simultaneously sending it to headphones.

What I did was get something like this to connect the digital audio feed from my tv straight to my headset. This kind of "tricks" the PS4 in the sense that it will still send an audio signal out to the tv, and thus, your Elgato, while keeping it from spilling over into your commentary.

If you're actually going to buy a receiver, I just recently purchased a Denon AVR-S510BT to replace my newly dead Denon that was about 15 years old. I was able to get it for $180 with tax from Amazon, but it looks like the cheapest new is now $230.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAO43YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternately, I purchased an OREI Digital to Analog Audio Converter for a friend to output sound to separate speakers since his Xbox TV's builtin audio was failing. This is a $20 box but it needs its own power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yea I'm enjoying them. Good headphones are always nice though. What do you use? Well since you have to ask about the sub, I feel compelled to share my struggle.

With my old speakers I just had a 3.5" splitter and used the sub from my old Bose companion 3 speakers alongside my monitors. I noticed that my USB3 DVI adapter was giving a lot of electrical feedback and learned that it is a known issue(http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html)

I wanted to try a few different things, so that's part of why I initially ordered a DAC/Power conditioner. Optical audio was one of the things I considered, as it shouldn't have that electrical interference. However to use my sub still I would need a way to split the audio and send non optical to my sub input. So I got this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IGXDEK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


So basically I will split the optical audio. Send one signal to my DAC and then convert the other back to analog using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and connect my sub that way.


So I spent over the cost of these speakers ($200) and 11 packages from Amazon to try to have a solid setup and learn a couple things about audio equipment, interference and dirty power.

tl;dr: USB3 causes weird interference in the 2.4 Ghz range. Tried to setup a cleaner audio system, leading me to order ~11 packages from amazon at about 9am after not sleeping all night. Looks like the ambien walrus struck again, but no. Just me.

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

What you are in need of is a DAC.
Your TV should have digital audio output in the form of either an optical or coaxial out.
Take a look at :
http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394379209&sr=8-2&keywords=fiio+d3

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

Do you have any aesthetic expectations?

I would use a laptop as a source, buy a Fiio DAC, get an audiosource amp, and buy a set of ELAC B6

That's in your price range, but it completely skips the idea of "stereo system" and relies on you owning a computer to dedicate to music.

I woudl have a completely different plan if it was dedicated installed stereo or something that you wanted portable.

you should consdier getting a DAC. DACs are fantastic. Mine died, and i was going straight from the PC to the stereo, and it sounded like straight up butt. Once I got a new DAC it was a friggin revelation.

if you want to go cheap, a fiio D3 will serve: http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281051&sr=1-14&keywords=fiio+dac

after that, i would recommend a Schiit Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281149&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=schiit+dac

it keeps going up from there (i personally run an emotiva xda-2 which is in the $250 neighborhood).

Well there was some other language in a product name... Edit: link https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

This.

Your Tv has optical output. You need a DAC able to convert digital signal from optical to analogic signal for the speakers.

Take a look at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_oGQjzbNEFMCA6

For only 20 bucks is a nice option for TV.

Roku Ultra has optical out. You could use a DAC (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS ) to end up with RCA and then convert it to 3.5mm.

I ended up picking up the open box S15s and the SMSL SA50 during the ebay sale. Also, picked up the DAC from Amazon. Just waiting on them to arrive now.

How would I go about hooking up the DAC and the amplifier to the desktop? Know how to do with with just the amplifier, but not sure what additional cables I'll need for the DAC.

Thanks! thats the answer i was looking for!
Do i need the red and white cables as well if i want to get the sound through speakers or am i fine without them and sticking my headphones into the jack next to them on the converter?
My monitor only got dvi and vga ports.

I honestly thought the 3.5 adapter is everything i need to make it work. I gonna check my mediamarkt right now and if i wont find the same ill order on amazon. Thanks man

Edit: Just checked the price of the same converter in austria. 120 euros.. this one will work fine as well i guess? http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-Taishan-D03K-Digital-Decoder/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_10?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1416586181&sr=1-10&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

Every time I've tried to run sound out from onboard PC sound it has had terrible noise floor issues.

But on the other hand, the DAC should be the absolute lowest budgeted part of your system. I would highly recommend this dac.

I have this DAC in a few of my systems, including my high(ish) end listening room setup. I've A/B'ed it with my $2000 PS Audio DAC and they sound exactly the same, so that one sits in a closet to free up a rack space.

Why not just get a decent DAC, a Fiio D3. $27.99 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414988317&sr=1-2&keywords=fiio+d3

Can you pick up a cheap optical-to-coax converter and check to make sure the optical output is working properly?

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Optical-Toslink-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B002HWZN4W

You'll also need one of these to plug into the coax input: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775JZ6B7/


Another route would be a DAC: https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/

And you will also need the 3.5mm-to-rca adapter since the analog input on the AD18 is a 3.5mm receptacle.

I doubt you can straight from the PS4... Because Sony. They don't like to play nice with third party devices. I know the USB can be used for their own wireless headphones and some others. But im pretty sure those devices need to pay Sony to be able to do that.

There are other ways to make it work indirectly...

1. You could just run an aux cable from the controller to the speakers.
   
   
2. If you have the non-slim version with the optical output on the back, you could get somethings like a Fiio D03K and covert it to RCA then connect to the speakers.
   
   
3. Run an aux cable or RCA's from your TV to your Speakers.

>So i want to know if its enough or should i buy a dac/amp

Only you can answer that for certain. I've had the M50x, and you should be able to power those just fine. Looking at the M220 specs, you should be able to power those just fine as well. Get the headphones, try them out, and if you find that you can't drive them loud enough for your tastes, then look into an amp.

If the DAC on your motherboard isn't cutting it (and I'm sure it will do just fine) you could pick up something inexpensive like this since your board has an optical out.

TL;DR, you can probably save your money and be just fine.

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

What source do you plan to use? There's very little to separate d/a chips per se. What has an influence on sound is the implementation on the analogue side - more money buys you better components, better circuit design and isolation from the power components and so on. IMO your A-S501 deserves at least this much.

The speakers are powered, I use one of these as a DAC only

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

Thank you! Yes, the TV does have optical output, so to double check, I could use the optical output from the TV to this device: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Splitter-VHD-TS1X3/dp/B00G191YL8 and take one optical split to the soundbar and the other optical split to an optical to RCA DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I2ABOTKB8VI3 and then from there to the receiver?

That sounds great!

Does the crackle happen when you use it with your phone?

If yes, your amp has a problem. Take it to a local repair shop.

If no, static electricity is building up between the casing of your computer and the input to your plug (probably). You can solve this by buying a dac, such as

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494235021&sr=8-4&keywords=dac

What you're looking for is a headphone amplifier or a DAC, though I'm not seeing very many headphone amps with TOSLink (optical) built-in. You could use a converter to go from TOSLink to RCA and then use a headphone amp to go from RCA to your headphones. I found this guy on Amazon, but I don't know anything about it and cannot in any way vouch for its quality: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC

Alternatively, if you hook up a home theater system most receivers have a 1/4" jack on them (but that's a lot of expense if you're just trying to get a headphone connection).

EDIT: Ah! After a bit of searching, I think I found exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538502346&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=toslink+to+RCA&psc=1

At $22 it's not going to be all that great, but it will get you the connection you're looking for. This will probably sound about as good as the output from your iPod, but it won't compare to a proper headphone amp. If you want a high quality setup, you'll want a high quality DAC paired with a headphone amp.

What headphones are you using?

I just remember, I have this in my house somewhere, I used to connect it to an older TV via optical so I could use headphones with it. Which would work better, the dac or buying the adapter you linked?

Get a D to A convertor with optical and coaxial in, and RCA out, and an RCA to 3.5mm adapter

Don't forget the coaxial or optical cable.

Does the monitor have a 1/4" jack on it? The HDMI feeds sounds from the Xbox, so if the monitor has some type of audio-out jack, that would be the easiest way to connect your speakers to it. Second best way would be to buy a converter for optical to analog. Something like this

Sure.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

Converter to coaxial stereo

The answer is right there in your picture.

The red and white audio connectors on the back of your TV are labeled "IN." So, that's not where sound goes out. That's where sound goes in. =)

Now admittedly, that layout is kind of confusing, because the red and white connectors also line up with the "digital audio out" label above. So it's not a silly question. (Not that there would be anything wrong with that)

Another poster suggested an HDMI audio extractor. That would totally work, but a cheaper solution is to just connect a simple DAC to that digital audio out on your TV: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

Any RCA cable should be fine, doesn't have to be a special digital audio cable.

I'm running my PS4 to my monitor, and my PC hooked up to it as well. I have my PS4 hooked up with a DVI to HDMI cable (something like this), and my PC is hooked up to the VGA with a cable hooked to an VGA to DVI adapter going to my graphics card. Only issue with the set up, is needing the digital converter box to get audio, but I just have a toslink cable (like this) going from the PS4 to the converter box (like this) and then just a RCA to 3.5 male cable (like this) plugged into the side of one of the my speaker in an AUX in port.

Everything works fine and I can swap between my PC and PS4 just with a button push switching between DVI and VGA on my monitor. It is a bunch more cables, and the converter box needs to be plugged into an outlet but not much that can be done about that. Also I can't vouch for everything I linked, just used them as an example of what I'm running though most of it just the stuff Amazon posted as the newer version of the stuff I used when I bought them a couple of years ago. You also mentioned already that you are getting a pro, just know that the PS4 will have to be a Pro or an old version of the PS4 for you to run digital audio. The slims don't have digital audio ports.

• Monitor with HDMI
  
  
• External speakers
  
  
• PS3/PS4
  
  What you need is an optical to analog R/L audio converter ([an example] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4WPXA)). This hooks up to your speakers coming from the PS3/PS4.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

I'd say you're probably better off with one of these. That way you can hook them up to existing speakers if you have them or get a decent set of computer speakers for around $80.

To get a proper 5.1 stereo of reasonable quality you'd be looking at closer to $300-400, but you could always check graigslist- you might be able to pick something up for around $100.

>ps4 has more of an input lag than the pc. Is this still true?

No, but it requires some proper setup also, since it's optical out only you may need to buy a convertor (Optical->RCA) for the best experience (Headphones).

• DLC is not cross platform

In my opinion, it seems to clean up the signal just that extra bit.

I have this little guy and it's a great DAC.

I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.

With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.

I've heard people talking about Optical Audio to RCA converters. This might work for PX21s.

Not really, unless you have bad electrical noise, a low impedance headphone (like 10-40 ohm) or perceive high sound distortion at high volumes. I recommend the Fiio D03K(https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467657580&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3).

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_9?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467909380&sr=1-9&keywords=digital+to+analog

I came across the same issue when i was using a monitor with no headphone jack so i picked up one of these to solve the audio issue.

Optical to 3.5mm

but this was before they came out with the headset adapter. In the case of audio i would just go ahead and buy the Controller Adapter and use whatever headphones you have or you could spend a bit more and just get the Microsoft stereo headset.

Edit. clickable links

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Here you have. FiiO is a nice brand and you have the chance of connecting your current speakers.

Best of luck!

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

• Bluetooth transmitter that takes optical input ($25-50) and two bluetooth speakers ($25-50). Many of each to choose from. You'll likely want a BT speaker that takes an AC adapter so that you can just plug the speakers into the wall outlet. So just make sure the speaker comes with some kind of AC adapter. Many of them are USB powered, so if you have a bunch of AC to USB plugs lying around, you should be all set.
  
  
• Small integrated DAC + amp like the SMSL Q5 Pro (~$100). Micca MB42 speakers ($60). The Q5 Pro has a remote, so they can adjust the volume of the speakers easily.
  
  
• Small DAC like the FiiO D3 ($25) and powered speakers (i.e., the amp is integrated into the speaker) like the Micca PB42x ($120). Volume control is a knob on the speaker.
  
  
• ... and now the controversial solution that will commit two /r/hometheater faux pas' at once. A soundbar (gasp!) possibly from Bose (double gasp!). If your parents have trouble hearing the dialogue in shows, there are modes for soundbars that are specially tuned to amplify talking. The Bose Solo 5 mini soundbar ($200) will take the optical input, convert to digital, amplify, and drive its speakers. It has a "dialogue enhancement" mode to boost the frequencies in human speech without making the background sound louder. Similarly the cheaper Amazon Basics version ($100) has a "news" mode that does the same thing. You may find that they can use these modes to hear the dialogue but not have to turn the volume up so high. Note the Amazon soundbar is quite long (31") while the Bose one is compact. You just stick the soundbar under the TV and they would not need to put speakers on their nightstands or do any wiring across the room.
  
  BT xmitter: https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B00QV77YIC/ref=pd_sim_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QV77XU6&pd_rd_r=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&pd_rd_w=5L2XQ&pd_rd_wg=tT0TC&refRID=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&th=1
  
  BT speaker: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Black/dp/B01GF5ACUG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496641001&sr=1-10&keywords=bluetooth+speakers
  
  SMSL Q5 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B017W12UCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496640656&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+q5+pro
  
  Micca MB42: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8DF9BG3KN9NN102A6Q6
  
  Fiio D3:https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO
  
  Micca PB42x: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496640689&sr=1-1&keywords=pb42x
  
  Bose Solo 5:https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Solo-TV-Sound-System/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496639710&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbar+dialogue#customerReviews
  
  Amazon Basics: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EK7TEL4/ref=psdc_3237803011_t1_B01AWLPUAG?th=1

yeah that rca to hdmi is converting the wrong way. you can get sound out the toslink so maybe this is what you need. https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

You need a digital to analog converter (DAC).

Cheap Option

They range to from affordable to crazy expensive depending how much of an audiophile you are.

Does your tv have headphone jack?

Something like this

Plus a rca stereo to female 3.5mm plug

Yes, and yes.

The x12 headset requires stereo RCA (red & white) audio jacks to get game audio, and the Xbox One does not provide that. So, you will need something else, and that "something" depends on the rest of your setup. Check for an audio output on the stereo system or TV you plug your Xbone into. If none is available, you can use the Xbone's optical output and something to convert it to RCA -- here is one example I found just searching for "Optical to RCA".

Also, the chat cable (that goes from the headset to the 360 controller) will not plug in to the Xbone controller directly; you will need the Stereo Headset Adapter. Plug it in, and then use the balance controls on the adapter to be completely on "chat", so that it only emits chat audio and not game audio.

Note that you can get away with just using the Stereo Headset Adapter to get both game and chat audio through the controller and the chat cable, but in my experience with the x41 headset, it sounds like crap, because the headset is expecting a mono chat audio source and processes it as such.

Honestly, for the price and hassle, you'd be better off just picking up the Stereo Headset. You'll get the same stereo quality of the x12, but it's just using a single cable connection to your controller, and it'll cost as much or less as the equipment you'd need to get the x12 hooked up.

Yeah. You're missing the fact that the end of that cable that plugs in to the Bose isn't a 3.5mm plug.

You actually need a Digital to Analog converter like this along with a RCA to 3.5 adapter for this to work.

Not entirely sure this is what you are looking for or not http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

I don't believe the One is compatible with a mouse at all. You'd have to mod a controller to act mice like to get that functionality.

As far as the monitor goes, many monitors these days accept HDMI input, I'd get one of those. Worse case you'd need a HDMI-to-VGA adapter.


Edit:

External speakers with 3.5 input can be used with a VGA adapter (see below) or with a digital to analog adapter (see below)



Digital audio to analog adapter

HDMI to VGA +3.5 audio adapter

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U-0ryb4GEWGRE

Behringer Microamp Ha400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5b1ryb9K5W9Q9

Inelegant and cheap solution I use for my 598s. You can pay more for a mixamp, but meh. This gets loud. You may need another aux cable... I don't recall if the DAC came with one, as I needed a long one that I got separately.

you need an external sound card like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EC-Technology-Aluminum-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B014F2VUO8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617365&sr=1-14&keywords=external+sound+card
be sure to get a usb extension wire as the PS4 is just an awful shape that doesn't fit usb's that have a large base like most sound cards

OR

a DAC with an optical cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS


a suggestion for a mic if you need a great one that's cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ECMCS3-Omnidirectional-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B0058MJX4O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617666&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+omnidirectional+microphone


you can also use any mic that plugs into a usb slot like a blue snowball or other desktop mic. I'm not sure what exactly your setup is so I can't really tell you whats best but hopefully this helps.

No, that's just electrical interference from your computer being a computer. To fix it, you'd have to get a cheap DAC like the Behringer UCA202 or FiiO D3 , other than that, just deal with the static.

Only output I see is optical audio so you'd need something like this to convert the digital signal to analog.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Or:

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451577317&sr=8-1

Yep, I used to do that as well before I got the splitter. Something like this should do the trick [FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter] (http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1383164833&sr=8-5&keywords=optical+to+rca). It also comes with an optical cable (the PS4 does not come with one). You can connect the optical cable from your PS4 to the splitter and then RCA out from the splitter to your amp/mixer.

Is the TV's audio out jack a single RCA? If so, this is what you will need. Will also work for digital optical (that's the cable it comes with)

I currently have the Kef Q100's and just upgraded from the Onkyo TX-8220 (very similar to the 8020). I also have a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable, and was very happy with the combo at the price. If you have a smaller listening space, I would stick with the 100s and save the extra money for a turntable and potential external preamp down the road (the internal preamp of the 8020 is serviceable, but you could do better at around $89 with the U-Turn Pluto).

As Armsc mentioned above, you'll be limited to just analog inputs on the 8020, but you can also pick up an external DAC down the road if you need optical or coax. All in all, I think you'll be very happy with your upgrade. Enjoy!

You could also get rid the ground loop by using the optical out of the MacBook Pro into a DAC then to the speaker system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JFN1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

I had the same issue with my Panasonic. If you can't find anything you could always get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487737139&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac.

It worked great for me to hook up an old 90's receiver.

Well if your TV has a digital output you can grab a FiiO D3 and that will convert to analog to the back of your amp. The only issue is it will remove any ability to remote control the volume. You will have to use the amp's knob.

I had this one hooked up to an Apple TV - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AFKH6OU9WWNFS but I'm now recommending this Apple TV to VGA/audio adapter because it's a lot easier to set up, only one cable out of the Apple TV, and it doesn't require external power.

I couldn't believe it myself. I bought this converter but I think I should probably look into a better one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003OND0N4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1NXC66PM5XPDH76SRSG6

If you have the PS3 AV cables I think you can get away with just using a physical adapter. If not, you can use a DAC to decode the optical audio output into a usable analog stereo signal. This is the cheapest standalone DAC I know of: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6

You would need an optical cable as well: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_y

Note that this has somewhat limited use though. If you're looking to add more components to your system you may want to look at an HDMI audio extractor instead with an HDMI switcher. The best option is an AV receiver but you would need to by home theater speakers as well which is a much bigger overall investment.

Audioengine A2

Audioengine A5+

Polk Subwoofer

FiiP Digital-analog-converter

These are just a few of the entry level options. Don't take my word for it. I don't own any of these items. I just see them pop up from time to time as good entry-level options. Both pairs of speakers I posted are powered, meaning they have amplification built in. They wont require an external amplifier. Another option is to buy a pair of passive speakers, like these, and buy a basic receiver, like this, to power them.

Again, these are just some EXAMPLES. I am not recommending any of these items specifically, as I have not heard them. I am suggesting that you do some research and figure out what works best for your needs and budget.

You'll notice I also posted a subwoofer and DAC (digital-analog-converter). The subwoofer is going to allow you to hear the lower frequencies that those small speakers wont reach, which you might find necessary if you like drums. The external DAC will allow you to bypass the shitty DAC in your current source (a laptop, I'm assuming?). You'll be able to send a digital signal out of your source (provided it has a digital output) to the DAC where it will be converted to the analog signal that will go to the amplifier. It isn't necessary, but it will improve sound quality since the shitty DAC in your laptop or computer will be bypassed.

If you do end up getting a dac I've found this one to be very good as a budget option; FiiO D3 192KHz/24 Bit Digital To Analog Converter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gIJ9ub0D5S6WF

DacMagic Plus! https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521383971&sr=8-3&keywords=dacmagic&dpID=31tjNKUYkgL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Yeah, an optical to balanced analog (XLR) adapter certainly exists, but I haven't been able to find any for under $100.

You could try removing the first 2 pieces of your signal chain with this (unbalanced RCA) DAC. AudioEngine has a pretty good reputation, and reducing the number of analog interconnects might just fix your issue.

Otherwise, here's a cheaper balanced DAC from a vendor I've never heard of before.

• Budget - $150-350 (Could go more, but not too much)
  
• Source - Audioengine D1 DAC
  
• Requirements for Isolation - Not sure, I mainly use my headphones at home.
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone - Over the ear
  
• Preferred tonal balance - I'd like a balanced pair of headphones.
  
• Past headphones - Bose On Ear, Bose QC15, Bose IE 2, Audio Technica ATH-M50 (Current Headphones), Audio Techinca ATH-ANC33iS (Current Earbuds)
  
  
• Preferred Music - Classical, Jazz, Pop, Rock and Techno.

Consider the Audioengine D1 - $169

• L/R RCA output to your KRK Rokit 5's RCA input.
  
• Front 3.5mm headphone outputs for your DT 770s, no adapter necessary.
  
• Volume dial that will control the volume of both your speakers and headphone. (Rokit 5's will be muted when DT 770s are plugged into the headphone jack)
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2864
  
  To continue using the Xonar DX, just use this cable. 3.5mm headphone/front output jack from the Xonar DX to each of the Rokit 5's RCA input.
  
  
  

A few things. Don't get a wireless headset, get a long, light cord with real headphones and a mic. Money doesn't matter? Make sure to visit /r/headphones. But if money is not a problem do this setup

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462141136&sr=8-1&keywords=ath2020

With this arm http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Suspension-Scissor-Built-Mounting/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=pd_sim_267_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41rdebtorNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR124%2C160_&refRID=1RW5JG5NC7VGFR5M6ZJR

For the headphones: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-880-Premium-250-ohm/dp/B000F2BLTM Now make sure to look around for others. Great options are DT 990 Pro's. Or these http://www.amazon.com/Technica-Audiophile-ATH-AD2000X-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S32ZPI/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462141281&sr=1-11&keywords=headphones&refinements=p_36%3A40000-70000

Now for the DAC/AMP which is needed http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462141332&sr=8-4&keywords=shiit+magni%2Fmodi

Again visit /r/headphones and DO NOT GET A HEADSET. They are ALL shit.

I have them running through this DAC, which has its own volume dial. It's also got a headphone jack which is incredibly useful. The speakers themselves are connected to each other with a piece of speaker wire that is held in by a screw, but it looks like you could use different connectors if you want. All in all a very nice system!

So your sennhesier gsx 1200 is currently what is giving you the virtual surround sound. So if you get rid of that amp youll need another amp that offers virtual surround sound, which is pretty limited.

​

In other words if you just switched amps you may not have the ability to do that. unless you changed your headphones as well.

​

Arctis pro headset DTS virtual surround 32ohms

https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Arctis-Fidelity-Gaming-Headset/dp/B07B32GY9Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549572900&sr=1-3&keywords=arctis+pro

​

Audio Engine headphone amp/dac This unit sounds really good and fits perfectly on a desktop. With a 32ohm load it should go plenty loud for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&smid=A17IVE6SUAZA2P

​

This unit I've never used before but I've always read good reviews and im sure it could power a 32ohm load no problem. Great price point.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549573059&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+amp

​

The Audio Engine D1 and the Arctis Pro should be a solid pairing.

​

​

​

something like a micca Origain

Amazon.com: Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black): Home Audio & Theater - https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540563229&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=micca+Origain&psc=1

or this

Amazon.com: Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter: Electronics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006IPH5H2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17IVE6SUAZA2P

Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.

I've been looking to get a pair of JBL 305s myself. I agree with others here that the hissing is likely due to using your on-board sound card versus an external USB DAC. Although you are likely using these studio monitors for listening rather than recording, a lot of people seem to use a USB audio interface with monitors like the Scarlett 2i2 that acts as a DAC with instrument recording capability. It has balanced 1/4" TSR outputs for monitors and if you ever decide to get an XLR condenser mic it has the input for that too.

It might be overkill for just a listening setup, but it's cheaper than an Audioengine D1 DAC. I can't speak to the quality difference since I own neither, but it seems you'd get a lot more for your money with the 2i2. Some comments I see is that the 2i2 doesn't have a very robust headphone amp built in for higher impedance headphones, though the same is likely true of the D1 DAC since it is also USB powered.

Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374230612&sr=1-2&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter+usb

Yeah I grabbed an optical out, then ended up having to buy a DAC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XCHCLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. definitely is the way to go. The only problem I really am having is, since I already know how to play there really isn't any thing for me. Its a neat tool but IMO getting a guitar and learning tab and some chords seems to be a better way to learn.

Someone else linked to the HDMI to DVI video cable. You can use this for the audio.

Use the toslink out (the one that says digital audio out) with one of these

Would this work?

Ok, that might be a little tougher. It has an optical out, but I've never tried to convert optical. Maybe something like this. http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

Now I'm not an cable expert, but I'm pretty sure you need some sort of converter circuitry, since you are converting a coaxial signal to a digital signal.
Here is one on from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

Well that I know of so far there is only two ways you can split the audio out of an HDMI.

1. You can get an HDMI to component converter. But since your using a monitor. Not a TV you probably don't have component input. The Monitor probably had HDMI/ DVI/ VGA inputs. (Also converting HDMI to Component you lose 1080p to 1080i)
   
   
2. The ps4 does have digital audio you can get a digital audio converter to Analog R/L (Red/ White) or Aux (3mm Headphone Jack) https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA
   
   Honestly I'm not a fan of HDMI they made it simple plug in which is good, but a pain to split the audio out (I split my Audio out to a 7.1 Surround Sound) my surround system is a bit old now but works perfectly, so I don't see a reason to upgrade, tho it has classic Analog R/W not the new digital audio.

looks like the PS4 has an optical out for audio, so you’ll need a DAC converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

and then; i looked and don’t think a DAC to XLR converter exists and so you’ll also need a cable like this: https://ebay.us/mMsLiW

then you can use the XLR input on your new gear.

Indeed that is all the TV/receiver has. Also i found some kind of converter which seems to fit my job: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA.
This might do the trick ?

Maybe something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=asc_df_B004C4WPXA/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=271051885612&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4268073328041744797&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001172&hvtargid=pla-310031442428&psc=1

You need a digital coax to RCA converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

(I don't recommend that specific one, it's just the first one that came up on Amazon).

Use the 'Coax Output' port on the TV with a coax cable between your TV and the adapter, and standard RCA audio cables from the adaptor to your stereo using the 'TV IN' port.

You need something like this (was used on Area One event) or this
It needs to have a Digital optical IN at least, it doesn't matter what you use as long as you can use the optical connection.

Can I instead just use the audio coming from the DS4 with headphones? Or should I buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) and have [this] (http://www.digitaltrends.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/turtle-beach-ear-force-x12-review-cables.jpg) hooked up whilst using [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_su_dp). I know it's pretty much what you said above, but still.

Your TV, like most modern TVs has only has 1 Audio Out connection, which is for a Toslink, Optical, Digital cable, like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Toslink-Cable-Feet-Optical/dp/B004LSNF04

Connects here on your TV...

https://s26.postimg.org/spmu3iq21/Image_003.jpg

All of the other Audio connections on your TV are Audio Inputs, not Audio Outputs.


You will need a converter like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA

...since your old Sony sound system doesn't have a Toslink, Optical, Digital Audio Input or at least I don't see one in the pic you posted.

The first one you mentioned seems to only have Digital Audio out (S/PDIF), which is not like the analog 3.5mm connection that is usually used, but a digital connection that is usually paired with a Stereo or Surround Sound system.

There are, however, converters that can take the digital signal and turn it back into Analog (they simulate such Stereo or Surround sound system) so that you can use it with your headset.

The Visio one with the 3.5mm headset connection is pure analog with no need for converters other than a simple cable that splits it into RCA for your Sennheiser.

If you have any more questions, just ask!

yep just make sure it's the toslink (fiber) and not coaxial. I don't think the xbox one has coax as well ? I'm sure you're capable of searching amazon but there's the cheapeast one. I'm sure the more you pay the better it'd end up being. :P

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375568394&sr=8-1&keywords=toslink+to+rca

It means I don't think you can just use an adapter. The only thing that I know of that converts digital to analog are boxes like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4WPXA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1371928873&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

But even with that, I doubt they'll make a cable that can plug into that from the controller. I could be completely wrong though.

This sounds like exactly what I am looking for! I would very much appreciate a detailed breakdown.

I currently have an Optical Audio from Xbox running to an Analog R/L Converter and then that uses an R/L to male headphone which plugs into my existing PC speakers. My monitor doesn't have built-in speakers, so this seemed like the simplest way to pipe my Xbox audio to my PC without having to do any major upgrades.

It sounds like I can recycle a good portion of my current setup to achieve what you are saying, which would be ideal.

Thanks!

The PS4 only supports digital connectivity (old school analog A/V plugs have finally bitten the dust). So for video, it sounds like you're good -- HDMI will work great, as you mentioned your monitor supports it (alternatively an HDMI to DVI setup would also work for a monitor).

But for audio, that's another story... The PS4 uses digital / optical audio cables (also known as a TOSLINK connection). You need a decent speaker system for this type of connection. You mentioned that your monitor doesn't even have speakers (does it have an audio out port though? if so, you may be in luck and can just plug a pair of cheap computer speakers or headphones in). Otherwise, you pretty much only have three options:

• Option 1: Buy a [digital-to-analog converter](
  http://amzn.com/B004C4WPXA), along with a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable and an [RGB-to-headphone style adapter](
  http://amzn.com/B000I23TTE). From there, you can get a cheap set of computer speakers (even something simple like these would work). Attach the cables together and plug in the speakers and boom -- you'll have sound. (Note: if the PS4 is anything like the PS3, you'll need to enable "multi channel output" under its sound settings.)
  
  
• Option 2: Buy a set of speakers that support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. We're not talking cheap computer speakers like before; these will likely be a pretty decent sound system to support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. ([This is the cheapest sound system](
  http://amzn.com/B002V3R2SM) I could find on Amazon that supports it -- it's a surround sound / DVD Player combo, in case you're interested.) You'll also need to buy a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable, of course, which I linked to in the above example.
  
  
• Option 3: Or, your final option... just buy a TV. It'll be bigger than a computer monitor, it'll have the built in speakers, and it'll look nicer. TVs have come down in price significantly the last few years, so maybe you can pick one up for cheap on Black Friday or something.

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3/151-0622323-1846041?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9W4JNQTB1AV9NJTA5D43

you shall be satisfied with this

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0SM2AbS2J5GGX

This is the one I use. I like it alot. However, I use this in conjunction with an O2 amp. So j purposely looked for a DAC without a volume knob, if you want that might want to get something else

Something like this ? - http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465101821&sr=1-1&keywords=dac

What would be the purpose of that ? Is it like an amplifier for the headphone ? My tv has both RCA red/white and digital audio out.

Regarding you Logitech system, I believe you need to convert the coaxial or TosLink audio output to analog stereo via S/PDIF connection on the back of the Xbox One.

I don't know if it will work, some research may be needed. You will definitely need something like this, I do not endorse this product never used the product.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410314457&sr=1-3&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

> 42LH30

Yeah, that TV has digital optical out. You will either need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), or a new receiver in order to utilize external speakers.

You could also switch out the TV to have standard RCA outputs, but I think your TV trumps your stereo, but I could be wrong in terms of quality.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394995528&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

yeah, I realized the dac doesn't support many sample rates. I ended up getting this http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463424091&sr=8-6&keywords=fiio+dac to replace the old dolby dac, it's not really that good anyways. The new one is meant to line out to self powering speakers, but I already have an amp from them so it should be good. 1 day delivery means I should get it tomorrow.

I used this.

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jhZsxbX6ERAMS

Does this look like a good option?

Hi, I'm still relatively new to audiophile equipment, and I wanted to buy a DAC for my headphones.

I wanted to buy one of these $20 DACs just so to see what the sound is like. I guess my budget would be ~$60, but my friend told me that at this price point, they're all basically the same.

I looked around and it was basically down to this FiiO D3 and this Signstek

Recommendations?

I remember hearing about people needing to use the Xbox One controller adapter but now that the new controller come with the 3.5" port you shouldn't need that adapter anymore... so sound like the headset isn't compatible. There is 1 more possible option you can do.. if you want to spend some money.

Get this and get this

Plug your headset into the female end of the splitter. Plug one of the male ends into 3.5" port on the audio conversion box. Plug the other male end into the 3.5" port on your controller.

Connect the conversion box with the Optical In and Optical Out on the Xbox One. Go into Xbox One Audio setting and set HDMI audio off (if you don't want audio coming from the TV/monitor) and set the Optical/Digital Out to Stereo. Very important it is set to Stereo, not 5.1 or 7.1, that won't work.

This is the only other option that I see working to allow you to get audio from the Xbox and audio game chat and mic input into the controller. Hope this makes sense.

Probably a problem with the HDMI cable or if you're routing the audio from your monitor (using it's headphone/speaker out) then it's probably the monitor itself. Get one of these and an RCA cable to connect them into your speakers. That's my recommendation.

https://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

you will also need to buy a cord that converts a 3.5mm to a r/w since the 3.5mm is analog.

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

Mines the same, it has a digital audio out but that's it. I have a decent stereo and subwoofer set up in my room that also has a headphone jack which would work perfectly but the stereo only takes analog input.

It seems like modern TVs are all moving towards digital out only. If yours is the same, you can buy digital to analog converters but a lot of them seem kind of questionable (some hiss constantly, some don't work for surround sound, some don't work at all for some TVs) and when I got my TV about a year ago it was ~$100 for one that supported surround sound. I just looked now and there is a highly rated one for pretty damn cheap compared to what they used to be here. Of course there are some 1-star reviews saying it doesn't work, but overall it seems pretty good for most people. I'm probably gonna pick one up personally because I almost bought one for $100 a year or so ago.

Being new to the audio world, I decided to buy a DAC to improve the sound of my PC. After being sufficiently wooed by its reviews, I purchased the FiiO DO3K. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO. However, my PC only has a 3.5mm jack, no toslink. Is buying a coaxial to 3.5mm converter going to work with this? Or should I just buy a new DAC?

Yeah, sounds like you've tried everything. That's odd. It might be a problem with your PS4 but I don't know. You could check your PS4 video output settings. Maybe playing with those settings will fix the issue. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

I will say that I'm happy I upgraded to the Pro. It's not a huge improvement but games do look a little better and have a higher/smoother framerate. Plus, it has an optical audio output, so if you still have trouble with audio extractors, you can use a digital to analog audio converter to get audio from your PS4 to headphones or speakers. You can also add a mixer and get volume control. That's what I use now and it's great.

Digital to analog converter

5 channel mixer

I need help picking out new headphones for my PC

Budget - $100-200. (Would like to keep it under $150)

Source - Desktop

Requirements for isolation - Not an important factor (Not sure?, maybe this would be nice to have?)

Preferred type of headphone - Over ear, something comfortable

Preferred tonal balance - Don't have enough experience to answer this.

Past Headphones - Turtle Beach X12s (They were cheap and have served their purpose over the year, but would like to upgrade. Also, I'll be getting a stand alone Yeti mic so I don't need a mic to be on the headphones.)

Preferred Music - A large variety. Mainly will be using for video games, voice chat.

Other - I was also considering getting this based on a RL friends recommendation. Thoughts?

I am borrowing these from a friend soon to try out, but don't necessarily want/need wireless.

The SMSL-SA98 will easily carry those speakers. I've been using it on my desktop for about 4-5 months and love it. It provides more then enough power to drive them, and it gets LOUD. I run mine with a schitt stack and don't even need to use high-gain at all.

I run RCA-RCA to the DAC, with RCA-3.5 to my PC. But you can buy a RCA-optic converter off of amazon (that's what I use for my TV). https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374003&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+optical+audio+converter That's the one I use and it works well.

Edit: Also as someone mentioned, you can buy a AD18 as well (this replaced the Q5 Pro which i also have used.) Comes with a remote and provides good power with more features then the SA98.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Use can probably use this to get audio out of you TV and into the computer/stereo speakers as you need.

from TV > this > amp via RCA > speakers

Or if your amp has optical in, just go straight optical from TV to amp.

Something like this would convert the optical audio to 3.5 mm

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

So I'm just looking for a DAC then, that's a lot cheaper than a receiver or bar. Might not be the place to ask, but would my 598s power properly without an amp? I've had good experiences with FiiO in the past and this looks nice.

Seems like there is electrical noise going into your 3.5 jack. Can you hear it with headphones, too? Does your mobo have optical out? If so, you can connect it to a FiiO D3, then connect RCA from that to the Schiit system. I do this for my TV and it sounds great.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

I also have HS5's and I got the 2i2 on sale for $100. I got it mostly for the outputs for the monitors, but I felt wrong using a cheap dac with such expensive speakers. I previously had a Fiio D3 dac and used the 1/8" output to a 4 channel headphone amp, and then split one of the outputs from that to 1/4" jacks for each of the monitors. I didn't need a 4 channel amp, I just wanted a way to use headphones with separate volume control. That worked just fine honestly. Still great sound, I just like the simplicity and premium-ness of the Scarlett. Plus it's really nice to have a headphone jack on the front of the interface, where with my previous setup it was on the back of the amp. I also use an xlr mic to chat every now and then with friends when I play games, so that's nice. But that doesn't seem to apply to your situation. So if you want MUCH better quality than your motherboard's sound card, go with the Fiio and a couple adapters. It's also worth noting that the Fiio I mentioned only has optical toslink and coaxial input. If you motherboard doesn't have digital audio, you're out of luck for it. The usb on it is purely for power. But I'm sure there are nice usb dacs at a decent price too. If any of this doesn't make sense or you need more help, just let me know, I'd be happy to help or clarify! :D

Edit: also nice to see someone else on the Yamaha team. I am absolutely in love with mine. Worth every penny

Edit2: I actually use the xlr inputs on the monitors, even when I used unbalanced connections. I like how much beefier xlr connections are than 1/4". But that's purely personal preference. They worked just fine though

Last edit, I promise. I don't recommend using a super cheap dac like a $6 one. You spent $400 on monitors, get something decent or you might be wasting the potential of those monitors. The Fiio is $30, so try to aim for something around that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_8KJ7wb98HJERG
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MLJ7wbBXAEYJ0

And you'll be set

Assuming the distortion you're hearing is caused by your interconnects and not the receiver / speakers themselves then sure -
the PS4 has a digital out / TOSLINK out.

Your receiver likely does not, but picking up a cheap DAC like the Fiio D3 below - it will let you go PS4 -> DAC -> Receiver and simplify your path and potentially eliminate the distortion you're hearing.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

I am not sure if im following.

I bought a 48" Vizio - Linked here

The idea I have in mind is

DirecTV Box >> optical cable >> DCA - Linked here >> RCA >> Some sort of volume control? Preferably remote control >> RCA >> Both monitors and sub

Alternatively, do you know if I can send an optical cable to this? This would work out tremendously for me if this works.

You can use any earbud type headphones with this adapter or this one with a pair of these cables.

There is no volume control on these adapters, so your TV has to control the volume (not sure if it does). I know my very old Bravia can't from the optical jack.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.

Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420920775&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+DAC

That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0

Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420921060&sr=1-2&keywords=mini-toslink

Probably not the cleanest solution, but it will let you add it to the devices currently connected to your BT receiver.

Bluetooth Audio Transmitter

Optical to Analog Converter

the issue is that you not going to be able to get from any sound source to USB, you can get to RCA. (i though the soundsicks have an aux input which you can get from rca to 1/8in stereo for like $5) the issue is that any adapter from hdmi to dvi will have loss of sound or could have compatability issues becasue of hdcp. and you cannot run hdmi and use the analogue connector at the same time if i remember correctly, you could use something like this
(toslink to rca) http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345491757&sr=8-2&keywords=toslink+to+rca

I did a little Googling and found a quick and dirty way to accomplish this:

Connect your optical line to one of these.

Then, connect one of these things to it.

Finally, hook up one of these guys.

Hopefully that helps!

My PC lacks optical/coax out ports; what are my DAC options under $40? Below are all my purchased components so far:

 

Here is my MSI motherboard.

Here is my Realistic STA-790 receiver.

Here are my (2) Polk Monitor 7s.

Here is the FiiO DAC I own but can't use apparently.

Yes, optical is S/PDIF. S/PDIF can actually use a coaxial connection as well, doesn't always have to be the toslink cable.

You're right, the kit you linked doesn't have optical in, so you'd need a DAC. Thankfully they're not very expensive. You can find them for even less than that but I'm a fan of FiiO, they make good stuff in the entry level.

That said, hopefully you can find that soundbar kit cheaper than that. When you consider $150 + $25 for DAC you're at $175. At that price you could make yourself a pretty good sounding 2.1 system like this:

• Dayton B652 speakers - $30/pair
  
• Lepai Tripath 20W per channel mini-Amp - $25
  
• Dayton 8" Powered Subwoofer - $80
  
• FiiO D3 DAC with toslink cable - $30
  
  Total = $165
  
  This would sound much better than any soundbar and is infinitely more expandable and configurable. Someone here may have a better standalone amp suggestion, but that one should be sufficient. You should still be able control volume through the TV, just make sure the digital out volume control is set to variable, not fixed.
  
  

Ok, I think I might be on the right track now. What if I used something like this to convert the audio from digital to analog, and then used something like this to amplify the audio and send it to speakers? Would I need to be concerned with audio/video sync with this type of setup?

• FiiO D3 DAC - $28 - http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341261436&sr=1-1&keywords=FiiO+D3
  
  
• Pyle 75watt Amp - $50.46 - http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2x75W-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW
  
  
• Pioneer BS21 (Same as below) - $79.99
  
  This all costs $160. This isn't necessarily the setup I am recommending because I have never used any of these products. but at your price point and need of an optical input this is a way you could get better sound than a tv for cheap (DAC + Mini Amp + Bookshelf Speakers)

Just thought about it, you can't have them both connected at the same time. If the mac is on I'm pretty sure that it would output just the mac. So you are going to need a usb power supply to connect the D1 when you want to play XBOX.

BTW. I've got a Schiit stack Modi 2 + Magni 2 and own the Audioengine D1. In the end I didn't like the D1 because I use it for headphones and it didn't drive high-end headphones well also it didn't work in a USB dock which made it useless for me.

The Audioengine D1 has two outputs one for headphones and one for speakers; both are connected to the headphone amp (normally there would be a passthrough port), so you can't use the DAC part only if later on you want to upgrade with another amp.

Considering your needs I'd say get this two products; I would hate the extra-steps of disconnecting and connecting things to play or use the computer also the Modi 2 would still leave you needing a volume control for your monitors.

Schiit Sys for volumecontrol and input switch. ~60 dollars

Fiio D3 Toslink DAC to be able to plugin your XBOX (I'm assuming a high-end dac for gaming is not required): 29.99

So, technically from just a DAC perspective, a $25 Fiio D3 (https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO) would solve my problem better than the $100 Fulla 2 because it has an optical connection?

I like the Fulla2, but I'm afraid I'll be screwed if I buy it and there is still interference. I looked at your two recommendations, but I don't have the necessary cables. Maybe a Micca Origen+ with optical would work?

Looks like that soundbar has inputs for RCA, 1 optical, 1 digital coaxial and 3.5mm plus Bluetooth. And that TV only has optical audio out... so not a lot of options there. If it had RCA output like some other TVs it'd be easier.

What you COULD do is buy an optical to RCA converter such as this one www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ and use splitters to split it between your sound bar RCA input and the RCA input of a subwoofer. I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/

The whole shabang would cost you about 120 plus tax and would sound pretty decent.

EDIT: I just noticed the fiio converter has RCA AND 3.5mm line out. So maybe you don't even need a splitter! You could just have the soundbar connected via 3.5mm to 3.5mm aux and have the RCA going to the subwoofer. That would be less clutter and you won't have to worry about losing signal power from using splitters :)

I'v heard those monoprice active speakers are the best value at that price point.

For a DAC, I have the schiit audio modi. I think it is amazing, and is built buy a very serious company. However, at $100, it might be a bit too expensive considering the price of your other components.

If that is the case, then something like
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-1&keywords=DAC

or http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-8&keywords=DAC

might be reasonably as good as the modi at a much more reasonable price.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_cp_e_1

To do that, you'll need something like this FiiO unit, and an optical TOSLINK cable (the one I linked comes with one - the picture of it also happens to be covering the 3.5mm jack).

Like Tonystew43 said though, RCA is an easier route. You can buy an RCA to 3.5mm cable on the cheap, plug that into your box, and you'll be set.

Hey all! Looking to set up a basic, relatively cheap 2.0/2.1 (built-in subwoofers) sound system for a living room projector, primarily for use with an Xbox One. Doesn't need to be very loud or huge on audio fidelity, but after taking a look at the subreddit I've got the following parts list, but I wanted to make sure everything looked correct with the DAC and how it would work with the Xbox.

• Micca PB42X Speakers
  
  
• Which are connected via a pair (one per speaker) of 2RCA audio cables to
  
  
• A FiiO D3 DAC
  
  
• Which is finally connected to the Xbox One via an optical audio cable
  
  Thanks for the advice/help!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i just ordered this one from amazon and it should be here monday-tuesday. ill give it a whirl and report back! :) thanks!

I thought the pa4 might have a special order analog audio cable but I can't find one. Something like this should let you convert to stereo from the optical:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I also had interference from the analog outputs of my AsRock motherboard. It wasn't always there and very well could have been my video card since that's the component that gets upgraded most often.

My solution was to get a cheap DAC since the audio setup on my PC is not "high end". As has been mentioned by others, DACs do sound different but it requires both (1) the ability to hear the differences, and (2) equipment that allows you to resolve those differences. I bought a FiiO D3 DAC from Amazon for 30 bucks. Output is totally silent (when it's supposed to be) and the sound quality through my ok-quality speakers is great.

That being said, the DAC in my main audio rig is an Arcam irDAC which I've been very pleased with. I paid $500 used and feel it's worth every penny, but I would never buy one for my PC setup because I don't do any kind of critical listening with it and it makes no difference with games.

Need help with dac and amp. So i just bought a pair of fidelio l2's as my main monitoring headphones, and ive started looking into amps/dacs. Im a gamer, and wanted to see if i could get more out of my headphones. Ive browsed around a little on amazon and i found FiiO D03K dac and Behringer micromon ma400 amp. It looks like the output of the dac seems to be different from the input of the amp, and i was wondering if there any any ways to connect the two together. Are the two products even compatible together? Im fairly new to amp/dacs so just wanted to gather some info before i bought them.

Do you think this might help http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 . The problem sounds like audio interference coming from inside my computer. Whats odd is it's only affecting one of my speakers.

Ohhh.

So what's the video connection to the monitor? HDMI, DVI, VGA?

You would need to go from digital audio out of the PS4 to analog audio, using something like: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS then the red/white RCA connectors on that box can be adapted to connect to your speakers with the right cable.

it does not :(
looking into this combo atm, not sure how it will work

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFEMMVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Y'all can use this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1449793298&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=amp+speaker+dac

And this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049P6OTI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449793383&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Speaker+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41oY-bq%2BwEL&ref=plSrch

Just check what wattage your speaker can take. Also get a y cable so that both left and right audio will go to the one speaker.

I bought the Magni 2 for $59 on Amazon the day the Magni 3 came out. They said I can't upgrade to the 3 for free (understandably). Do I need a Magni 3 though? I have Beyerdynamic dt 880 600ohms. Also do I need a fancy DAC or will a cheap $25 one work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506302277&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch

Easiest thing to get is a combination of what others have said - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479631264&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=optical+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch - this is an optical to rca adaptor. Will do the job perfectly and you can pick them up for $10/15 if you go for no name brands. I've linked to the one I bought for exactly this and it works perfectly but there's no reason a cheaper one wouldn't be just fine either.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know how well it works, but you could try this HDMI Audio Splitter. Alternatively, if your tv supports toslink or speaker outputs, you could use adapters to plug your tv into headphones TOSLink to 3.5mm/RCA

Found this box which seems better, would this work?
My local shop has this box would that do the trick?

you'll probably have to use something like this with an adapter cable however you may have to run this through an amplifier.

or maybe one of these but you'll need an inline volume control on your headphones.

I currently own a pair of Sennheiser HD598's. I would like to get a pair for on the go use, though I'm also not opposed to upgrading the 598's for home use. My only concern with IEMs is spending a lot of money to have them broken/lost. I'm hoping to spend <$200. I listen to a lot of jazz, hiphop, and classical. Bass isn't particularly important.

Would either of these Beyers be an upgrade to my 598's? They're currently on sale on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-PRO-32-Headphone-Monitoring-Applications/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417122888&sr=8-2&keywords=DT770+PRO
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Applications/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1417122917&sr=1-2&keywords=Beyerdynamic

For IEMs, I'm looking at these Westones:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UM2HW
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UMPro10

Which of these would be a better buy for a DAC/Amp (honestly not that sure of the difference)? I'm also open to other options in the ~$50 price range.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Headphone-Amplifier-Micca-Cable/dp/B005JT8OT6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1417121587&sr=8-8&keywords=fioo
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1417121587&sr=8-12&keywords=fioo

Thank you very much!

What computer do you have? There's a solid chance that you have a combo headphone/SPDIF output. It became fairly standard. If so, grab the inexpensive Fiio D3 and an optical cable. If not, it might be a cheap upgrade, as noted below.

Since just using a 3.5mm headphone-out (assuming the classic Y-cable approach) into the E9 is "double-amping" the signal, you are more likely than not to notice a solid all-around improvement by getting your sound out to the E9 bypassing your computer's headphone amplification. Not sure that going E7 vs. D3 is going to make a big difference, if budget is a problem. Or E7 vs. Modi for that matter.

Failing that, you can run your Beyer's from you computer too. I do it with my 600ohm 880s. It sounds better with the DAC/Amp setup, but not night-and-day better. The 880s are what make the killer improvement in sound. Everything else brings smaller marginal improvements. So, keep that in mind relative to your budget.

What do you play your sound through? I have a nice amp and speaker set so I use one of these + an optical cable:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-192KHz-Digital-Analog-Converter-Black/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420641620&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3

The sound is excellent, but it might not be cheap or simple enough!

No, they would not work. The buzz is probably due to instability in the power source either from source or from motherboard. To 100% isolate yourself from it, do not get anything that gets power from computer. The options you listed above seem to pull power from your PC which provides noisy current, hence noisy DAC performance.

Your best bet is not only getting a DAC, but getting a DAC that has its own power supply.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-192KHz-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452729777&sr=8-3&keywords=DAC

For example, this has dedicated port for power which shields you from noisy currents. The optical in would be only the sound and none of the junk.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6 Is that good?

If you have optical or coaxial then this one is pretty cheap and should work fine. There's an SMSL one that accepts USB as well. Other than that there are a few that are a DAC/headphone amp combo which would could potentially make your amp slightly redundant, so I've refrained from posting those, but most DACs do seem to do both jobs.

I didn't think those even exist. Apparently they do, but they are still few and far between

I'd say, get the following:

• Fiio D3 Converter
  
  
• Lepai 2020 Amplifier
  
  
• Dayton B652 speakers
  
  This should be a fine entry systems and should leave you with a lot of upgrade options if you decide you want to shoot for higher quality later on
  
  €: 5.1 is a definite no-go at this price-level. 2.1 is pretty much a waste as well, because the subwoofers in these systems are really shitty

You're looking for one of these:
FiiO D3 Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_SBIevb1GD99RS
You'll then run analog audio RCA to 3.5mm female (Google around you'll find the adapter) and connect to your speakers...

Here's the issue; optical won't carry volume control and I'm betting your klipsch don't have a remote control. So, you'll have to adjust the volume on your speakers by hand.

Hope this helps.
Good luck

You would need to buy a DAC like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PWPUW6?pc_redir=1396133927&robot_redir=1

Hello- I keep getting distortion on my audio system when playing PS4 games; specifically anytime there's an explosion or similar loud sound. Only seems to happen on games, not movies or tv shows.

Current set up for audio is:

• PS4 to TV via HDMI.
  
• TV Optical out to DAC.
  
  
• DAC to Sony Receiver.
  
  
• Receiver to speakers (Pioneer SP-BS22 Andrew Jones).
  
  I'm struggling to figure out why this distortion is occurring and how to fix it. It doesn't seem to happen with movies & tv, only games. Also, I have a Wii U that sends audio to the TV as well, but I don't play it nearly as much nor do I really have any Wii U games with loud explosions in it, so it's
  
  
  I've gone through all the settings on both the PS4 and TV and set the outputs to "Linear PCM". At this point, I'm wondering if it's the DAC that's causing the distortion- it was pretty much the cheapest DAC with good reviews, so I'm trying to gauge if it's worth upgrading the DAC to see if it solves this issue.
  
  
  If anyone has any insight, I'd appreciate it!

Its this one: Cambridge Audio Azur DacMagic Plus Digital zu Analog Konvertieren, schwarz: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GJU33I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_RrglAbZZBK58X

Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus, Amazon, CA (more info)

A bit on the more expensive side of your budget but seems like a quality option. Has XLR outs and is reasonably compact for what it has so wouldn't look out of place sat on a desk. Also has some sort of up-sampling. There's probably better value for money options but I really like the look of this one.

DACMagic?
https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I

Take a look at the Cambridge Audio Dac

https://www.amazon.de/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analog-Wandler-schwarz/dp/B006GJU33I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Cambridge+Audio+Azur+DacMagic+Plus&qid=1570059115&sr=8-1

You would need an optical to xlr preamp of some sort. I am not well versed in these but something like this one would work. However at that price I would opt for a 5.1.2 avr. Problem is there are not any avrs at that price point that have preamp xlr outputs. For me it would not be worth that much to use those speakers on my television. That being said someone may chime in with a dirt cheap solution that I don’t know of.

>not wanting to adjust volume with the laptop as to degrade sound quality

Then thankfully, that's not a thing, because it doesn't.

But if you're thinking of streaming/purchasing from Qobuz, get a USB DAC/interface that supports 24/192Khz (and use balanced cables).

• https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I/

I've got this right now Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TxrHxbFR7B09J

I was thinking 880s since those are on sale as well

I assume you mean USB for your phone, right? That's what makes sense. I've not seen many DAC/Amps with an analog Aux line in...

The FiiO K3 is close, but doesn't have an analog out.

The Schiit Fulla has line or variable analog out (in addition to headphone) but no optical.

The AudioEngine D1 and SMSL M7 look like they have all of it, but are above your budget a bit.

But please check the features and confirm for yourself.

Thanks man, your input is really helpful.
So let's the example where I utilize an external DAC, i.e. FiiO Q1 Mark II or Audioengine D1.
I run a USB cable from PC to external DAC, then run an RCA cable to one of the RCA inputs of the receiver.
I then just run cables from AV receiver to speakers & viola! (assuming no tech conflicts...).

As an aside, TIL 3.0 is unsupported by most consumer-grade DACs, and unnecessary bandwidth-wise..

I need to buy a DAC for my JBL LSR305's as my pc makes them hiss.

My friend recommends a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 over a Audioengine D1, he says the D1 is shit.

Upon questioning further he said that the audio quality will be the same (I don't produce music or anything) and the 2i2 has more features. I would guess that the D1 would be better if I'm purely listening to music, as that's it's only function.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

budget/used mid-fi here looking for a desktop headphone amp under $175. Or should it be a headphone amp/dac? Or should I get a headphone amp that has preamp outs, to put inline with my speaker amp and DAC? Maybe a tube amp, as all I listen to is Grateful Dead recordings from the 60's-early 80's and think a tube might fit the character.


My bedroom setup is pc --usb-->
Cambridge Audio DAC Magic --rca-->
Micca Origain speaker amp/DAC --> Elac B6

This leaves no room for headphones, which I currently power off a cheap usb card that came with a gaming headset. I have a bunch of chifi IEMs, and a couple low (~32 ohm) impedence headphones for now, but am planning on buying something more demanding soon.

The DAC magic is an older usb 1.0 model that only does 16/48, but apparently has high-end technology that upscales everything to 24/96 (or higher I iirc). It also has balanced xlr input/output which I have no use for. Anyways I can tell a slight edge and prefer it over the built-in DAC on the Origain, even though that does 24/96 over usb (and I have close to 100gb of 24/96 flac music...).

The Origain is cool but I think it starts to get channel imbalance when knob gets below 25%, which is usually where I keep it. So I wonder if a pre-amp with volume control could help optimize that better? To use the Dac magic, I'd need a headphone amp with line outs anyway.


So for under $175, would you go for:

1. dac/headphone amp connected to pc via usb
   
   +newer DAC would allow me to natively enjoy my 24/96 flac, or even DSD
   
   -still might not be as good as the dacmagic
   
   
2. headphone amp with lineout, put it in between my dac and speaker amp
   
   +Might allow me to turn Origain's knob higher to prevent imbalance at lower levels
   
   -Should I avoid having another device in the signal path if I can?
   
   
   Also, instead of going for a headphone amp/preamp, could I just use a blanced xlr to unbalanced rca adapter on my Dac Magic to use a cheaper standalone amp like the Bravo 2?
   
   Ideas: cheap tube amp like LittleDot Mk2, littlebear P7, xduoo TA-01, Bravo Audio Ocean Mini
   
   or digital: Bravo S1, FX Audio DAC-X6, DEAFidelity Elfidelity, SMSL VMV V2, SMSL M6, Audioengine D1, or FiiO E10K
   
   I'm scraping together pennies to put down on some cans soon. Either AKG 7somethings, Beyerdynamic DTsomethings 250 ohm, or Sennheiser 6somethings...whatever pops up on Craigslist or letgo.

Get a pair of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Monitor-65T-Three-Way-Floorstanding/dp/B009WVN85C/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463362173&sr=1-7&keywords=polk+audio

one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S201BL-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00F0H88SY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463362279&sr=1-1&keywords=stereo+reciever

...and one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463362488&sr=1-16&keywords=usb+dac

Bitchin' system for roughly a grand.

Yeah it's confusing. If it has a headphone jack and a volume knob you can call it an amp. If it also has a digital or USB input you can call it a DAC/AMP. If it only has analog audio input then it is a dedicated amplifier. If it only has RCA or XLR outputs and no headphone jack than it's a dedicated DAC with no headphone amplifier.

Some decent combination DAC/AMPS are Schiit Fulla at $90, Audioengine D1 at at $170, Soundblaster E5 at $200, Fiio E10k $80. Those are all USB and easy to use and install.

You could also go with a PCI sound card and install it in your computer. If you do I highly recommend any of the Asus Xonar or Essence soundcards which vary in price from $50 up to $270

A cheap stand alone amplifier would be something like a Fiio K5 $109, Schiit Magni 2 $120

A cheap stand alone DAC would be something like a Musicstreamer III $160 , or a Schiit Modi 2 $120 (i didn't like it's sound but others do), etc.

Some great USB DAC's (some with integrated headphone amps) to consider, from lowest price to highest:

• Behringer UCA202 USB sound card: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
  
• Soundblaster E1 portable DAC/AMP: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0/
  
• Fiio E07K Desktop DAC & Amp: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/
  
• Schiit Modi USB DAC: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/
  
• Audioengine D1 USB DAC: http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2

You can take a look at the Asus N56JN-EB71:

• 15.6 inch, 1920x1080p display
  
• Intel i7-4700HQ + 8 GB of RAM
  
• 750 GB HDD
  
• Nvidia GT740M with 2 GB of GDDR3 RAM
  
• Price: $849
  
  i7 quad core, enough RAM and storage and a dedicated GPU, so you can play Fifa at higher settings.
  
  A more budget friendly alternative would be the HP ENVY 15t Slim Quad with following specs:
  
  
• 15.6 inch, 1920x1080p display
  
• Intel i7-4712HQ + 8 GB of RAM
  
• 750 GB HDD
  
• Nvidia GTX 850M with 4 GB of GDDR3 RAM
  
• Price: $775 with the coupon code PC599Q4
  
  Similar specs, but comes with a better GPU. Doesn't have an optical drive. I don't know if that could be a deal breaker for you.
  
  > Also some affordable but good for the money sound cards made for notebooks.
  
  Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface is a decent low budget USB audio interface. A fancier alternative (but more expensive) would be an Audioengine D1. In between you will find several Topping DACs. Read some reviews, google around and pick one.

I saw those they look great (would love more info on those knobs/switches). That's kind of what I had in mind just with a radio backend. When I did my table install in my Jetta a few years back I pulled this mod to relocate the faceplate. With a bit more engineering I could have done just the buttons for a cleaner look but that was an cheaper car so I didn't really care much. I'm looking at doing the same thing in my new car (because manufacturers still think WVGA is an acceptable resolution in 2016) but doing away with the HU and just using a high bitrate DAC to feed the amps. Im thinking the audioengine d1 for now but nothing set. This is why I'm interested to see what you come up with.

Depending how it compares to a good usb DAC (I have this) that could either be really cheap or really expensive for what you get.

I'm not sure if this will work for you, but I wanted to do the same with my setup. I have Spotify on my desktop in my office, and I wanted to play music simultaneously from my receiver in the living room. I use SPDIF (TOSLINK, optical out) to get music out of the computer that goes to a splitter. From there, the signal is routed to an external DAC that feeds the office speakers, as well as to a device that converts the SPDIF signal from optical to Cat5 (ethernet) cable. I use the existing cable in my house to feed a similar device at the receiver that converts it back to optical.

Computer--Splitter--DAC--Office Speakers
--Converter====Converter--Receiver
Where -- is optical and == is cat5.

Splitter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0119OKGVI

Converter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CTRUTN0

DAC: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2

Audioengine also has some wireless products that will allow you to do the same. I used to use a W3, but there's a slight delay and sometimes it skips. I've heard good things about the D2 however.
http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Wireless

In the near future of buying some pc stuff and other peripherals, i came across a thought of "which DAC for my dream speakers should i use?" So I plan on getting these sweet puppies:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H0MQYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I5C4DPHEWA9D4
But obviously to get the best sound, I'll need a DAC or an amplifier.
Here's some I have in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1S7F043SU6CQK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1FYZ24Y1G14AO
Help me choose? i want to get a good DAC but I really want to get the cheaper option. HEALP

EDIT: Here's the original thread for better formatting.

Use a DAC or amp or both Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X1L0AbP7Z6PX0

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audioengine-D1-Premium-Interface-Connector/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523404184&sr=1-12&keywords=dac

Is [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Gefen-Digital-Adapter-Converter-GTV-DIGAUD-2-AAUD/dp/B0013LWK3A) as good as [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2)?

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542909454&sr=1-4&keywords=DAC

So i found this DAC today and was wondering if you had any opinion on this? I'm assuming I can connect it to my pc via the usb and the ps4 to it by the optical. I then connect the two monitor to the dac directly. I'm I far off base here or would this work?

Will this be good enough to power these guys?

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B00V7K5UJI

I currently use it for my HD598s.... and its great... but these guys seems a bit heftier?

appreciate the advice!!!!!!

Let's test that...

Thought so. It's not the search doing it. I'm guessing you got to one of those Amazon pages from somewhere else?

The Grace Digital GDI-BTAR513 has all you want, minus the USB DAC, in favor of a APTX bluetooth option. So, maybe look at snagging that and keep your current dac in use until you can upgrade it later.

The Grace Digital GDI-IRMSamp is a similar product, with a bit less power, and it opts for Wifi (n) instead of bluetooth, and has no sub out, but as mentioned, you can just run the speaker wire into/out of the sub if needed. The USB port on this one seems to take music, but I don't think it works as a full dac, but might hook up to your computer OK. That part would require googling and ain't nobody got time for that.

The option that might be your best though is to just keep your SA60, run speaker wire into/out of the sub (a totally fine option), and the spend your $150 on a quality DAC/Amp combo like the Micca OriGen (assuming it shows back up in stock for $99 soon. The Monoprice DAC/Amp is a decent option too, and at only $80, you could look at an ugarded SMSL A2 amp that has tone controls and a sub output.

Yup! It's back on Amazon as in stock for the 28th! Hopefully its new-found popularity won't jack up the price a ton.

I'd suggest an outboard DAC.

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-DragonFly-Preamp-Headphone-Version/dp/B00H00VLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452322565&sr=8-1&keywords=dragonfly+dac

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V7K5UJI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

They will sound better and solve any audio issues.

Take a look at the Micca OriGen. It's supposedly much better than the FiiO E10K

I'd go with Air Emotiva 6s and a Micca Origen. This would be a step above my setup of the 5s straight to source. If you want to lower it get the 5s or the already mentioned JBL's.

The E10K is a fantastic recommendation. Another option is the Micca Origen. It lacks bass boost, but I have 400i's and drive them with a Schiit Asgard 2 and I don't think you'll need any bass boost when you're driving them properly.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V7K5UJI/ref=s9_simh_gw_g23_i17_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0A56TAKHC02S36GDY37H&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

I'm probably going to buy the Micca OriGen.

I live in an apartment and don't have an a/v receiver or surround sound setup. I run optical out of console and into a wireless headset base (Turtle Beach X4.1). Then, I use the 3.5mm jack on the headset base with corded headphones. No lag. Sounds good. Doesn't bother neighbors. Fairly cheap.

Something like this should work the same way.

Ok, to fix your phantom power dilemma, try this: http://www.amazon.com/InnoGear%C2%AE-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462236977&sr=8-1&keywords=phantom+power+box

Then as far as audio, listen to people when they say keep it coming from HDMI. Or you can turn it OFF the HDMI in OBS and use the mixer USB but you'll need to use something like an hdmi audio demuxer to bring it into the switch OR even better, run it out the TOSLink digtal port to the mixer with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Optical-Converter-Standard/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462237130&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=optical+to+analog+audio&psc=1

Not sure why you were downvoted on this, however male to male like you linked might not work. Furthermore, it keeps the signal in optical format.

But maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=pd_sim_147_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9WG2QWV4B7HB62W0FH5Q

It converts the toslink optical to rca, and then converts the rca to 3.5mm stereo. It's a bit convoluted, but it's sold as a single package. I dunno, but that might work!

Are you buying the one with the mix amp? If so any modern xbox one controller can just plug in the mic cord for chat and use the mix amp aux out to plug into your dac, which you can run into your xbox's optical port. Or I would just buy these guys with this mic. You can then use this DAC. That dac has all the cables you would need to get up and running. But I would seriously consider that second setup to the Astros.

Would this work?

You did help bro thank you so much for a straight answer but I came across something else. What do you think about this using the optical audio port in the back using a optical audio to rca adapter then the Bluetooth transmitter receiver. The only problem I have with Bluetooth transmitters and receivers is I don't think you can listen and talk at the same time while gaming you can hear party chat but I don't think you can talk or can you ?? Check this out turtle beach elite 800 use the optical port in the back


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011O0N0UQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495226102&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=optical+audio+to+3.5mm&dpPl=1&dpID=51egWRjB5WL&ref=plSrch

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011O0N0UQ?psc=1

I'm struggling to get these setup correctly. Here is what I bought.

I bought this switcher: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RF8F212/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O0N0UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I run a cable from the Playbar to the switcher. Then from the switcher to 1 - the convertor which is connected to the turntable and 2 - the TV.

But I'm not getting any sound at all with this setup.

I'm not sure why he deleted it but this is what he linked

I recently purchased it and it works great. I taped the little remote to my TV remote to keep them together haha.

You'll need to get a digital audio converter like this also if you haven't already.

I hope this helps you out because it was a pain for me to spend so long trying to find something to work!

Is it as simple as buying one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y9JJMCFN0HP45JVE26CH

Its the same adapter that you showed it analog to digital the difference is that digital to analog works backwards. Here's the link from Amazon. [](Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yCOAxbASZHEGQ)

The optical input goes to the Xbox. The two RCA white and red output goes to the Logitech 5.1 input and the three 3.5 mm output goes to the speakers.

Yes, dishonesty is our reputation. ;-)

I believe I shared that measurements do not improve much for DACs composed of more than $50 in parts. Keep in mind that raw parts cost does not correspond to a fully manufactured DAC (let's not forget the PCB, assembly, enclosure, packaging, etc.). The electronics BOM cost of most entry level DACs on the market is below $50. For example, AKM's AK4490EQ is a fantastic IC. You'll find it in several $400+ "DACs". The chip itself is a mere $3/ea at 1K quantities. Add an S/PDIF or USB controller, power and supporting circuitry, and electronics BOM cost will easily remain below 50 USD.

RAZRr1275 is correct. It's certainly possible for two DAC designs to sound different. Digital filters and design choices have measurable impact--often small, but measurable. And not all DACs are designed for objectively neutral output. Well trained ears will notice.

Similarly, we've analyzed dirt cheap DACs which fall far below objective standards. Despite measurably poor performance, the audible difference between a $15 consumer grade TOSLINK-to-RCA adapter and a high performance DAC can be small to the untrained ear. Check out the positive reviews for this DAC (specs are absent for a reason!): http://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

I've shared the following advice for years: Upgrade your headphones and focus on your audio collection first. Add an amp next. Consider a DAC only if your source is noticeably unimpressive to you.

----

Thanks to all for joining in!

-JDS

Do you think I could use something like this + a fiber optic cable?


EDIT: Meant to say if I bought the game on PS4 since there is no Fiber Optic plugin on the PS3

Hey guys! I tried looking for answers by googling or searching in this sub but havent been able to find anything that helps me. Also, I am not looking for buying advice so please mods dont delete this post.

I have a Samsung 65 inches curved TV. It has one of those little boxes in wich you hook up all your systems (in my case ps4, switch, turntable). I am trying to change from my samsung home theater to an old Fisher reciever but I just cant seem to make them work together.

The reciever (and the speakers) both work; I tested them hooking them up to my turntable using RCA cables.

What I did was use a "digital to analog audio converter:

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517872024&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio&psc=1

I hooked a optical table from the tv (well, the little box that the tv has for hooking up this stuff) to the converter, and then from the converter I hooked a RCA cable to the RCA input in the reciever. I made sure yo use the same spot I used in the reciever when I was doing the test with the turntable.

It did not work.

Am I missing something? Do I need some kind of different cable or converter?

I am sorry for my crap english. I am sorry for making noob questions and I am sorry if I am breaking any kind of rule this sub could have but I just dont know what to do or who to ask.


Edit1: Yes I made sure to turn off the tv speakers and set the sound to audio output. We also tested the recieved with another TV and a AUX to RCA cable and it totally worked. Bad news is my TV does not have a AUX input.

hi,

thanks for the reply. i have sorta one like this

Hey! I'm trying to hook up my PC setup to my new Samsung MU7000 TV via its TOSLINK (optical) connection.

I have two monitor speakers and a sub connected to a FiiO E09K amplifier, and a pair of RCA cables running from the amp to this DAC, which is connected to the TV via an optical cable.

I either get static or a mid-frequency hum, even when I've tinkered with the settings on the TV. Any clue where I've gone wrong?

Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> does newegg tend to have cyber monday deals? building a whole new rig for the second time, and a couple sales on parts actually end on sunday, so I was wondering if I should just order them now.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9w82oo/

----

> Hi everyone.
>
> will any simple/cheap/ rgb strip sync to my mobo MSI x470 gaming , as long as i plug it directly on the rgb dedicated pins on the mobo? and what about usb hubs? would they still sync up just trough the mobo? i have their mystic light app, so far i only used for the rgb on the mobo itself

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wben8/

----

> I bought a Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> And I'm looking for an installation video to help me with it. Otherwise I'll have to get my brothers friends to help install it and he want like $50 to put my PC together. All I need help with is the liquid cooler cause I've never put one in before.
>
> Anyone know any good videos to help?


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wem45/

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> Hi. I have the ability to purchase an old Xeon E5420 Dell Desktop, with new SSD and 8GBs of RAM for cheap. Does anyone use it still? How does it hold for browsing the web, mainly more demanding websites like perhaps Cloud9 which I intend to develop on.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wkvc0/

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> Got. Mobo. For a old machine. Pull working parts from another machine to test it. Everything is install correctly . but. It not wanting to tirn on. After it was on last night
>


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wlax0/

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> I'm looking for a place where I can buy last year's computers or laptops. I figure that last year's $1000 laptop is now $700 somewhere in the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wnpld/

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> I built a PC last year with a 1080 Ti, i7 CPU, monitor is AW3418DW. I haven’t done anything to make it look good though. What’s a good site or YouTube channel that goes into ideas and the process of “pimping out” a PC? I’m talking RGB, color schemes, accessories, etc. I don’t know where to start.
>
> Thank you.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wz0dl/

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> Among other drives, I have two 6TB WD Reds for media storage for a Plex server. I use Backblaze for online backups as it has no storage limit, but even with the best consumer internet in my area, obviously a backup can take a while. I would like to have a second local storage drive specifically for a media backup.
>
> So the question - what is the best 12+ TB internal drive now, specifically from the standpoint of reliability? Cost is a near secondary concern, with performance being by far last.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x16vl/

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> Where is the most reliable place to buy replacement keyboard keys for a laptop? Some of them seem kind of sketch

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5qzv/

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> Decided to upgrade my graphics card. I decided to go ahead and grab a 1080ti until I saw how inflated the prices have become since I last checked. It looks like a used 1080ti is a similar price to the 2080. Should I just grab a used 1080ti or buy a brand new 2080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5w55/

----

> Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/
>
> And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
>
> I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5zb5/

----

> In your guys opinion, whats the coolest case I could get for around $100-200?
>
> Last year, I built a very budget and compact PC with a small case so that I could easily take it to friends houses. (worked better than I thought) Soon im going to be getting a laptop, so I have no need for a small case and was thinking, why not go all out and get a nice, fancy RGB case? I have always wanted to do one of those rainbow-puke builds, think its possible to do that for around $100-200 including RGB fans and light strips and all that?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x8x6j/

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> Is the aorus b450 mini itx board good? How is it compared to the asus board.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xb5fp/

----

> I'm needing a bit of help with my new GPU. Just yesterday I upgraded to a Asus Strix 2080 OC edition card, and now I'm getting a D3D9 error on a hat in time. I've tried everything I've seen from forums, and nothing works. Any tips to get it running? Everything is up to date, so how do I get it to run?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xbm5i/

----

>
> https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WqZRyX Looking at building this in the next few weeks, for my little cousin. Slowly buying everything as they go on sale. Since it's a windowed case, was thinking of putting some RGB parts in it - what are some cheap ways of doing that? Fans? Will those be compatible with my case/motherboard?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xdcg6/

----

> lets say i wanted to start a youtube tech channel and a twitch channel. the requirements are, for twitch it just needs to have a stand and preferably have hardware that can minimize outside sound. for youtube, it needs to have the ability to record how loud pc components (and keyboard) are when being stress tested. i was thinking the yeti mic, but maybe there might be a better mic, idk.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xgx6f/

----

> So i got a weird kind of thing
>
> So my Logitech G403 mouse that replaced my Razer Deathadder (because of the infamous DoubleClick bug that appeared a month after i bought it (dont buy razer mice!)) the mousewheel on my G403 started to freak out after a couple of weeks of use. Randomly scrolling up or down.
>
> Thing is i use Linux, in my workplace they also use Linux so it took me a few weeks until i could do a firmware upgrade to fix the bug (firmware update is windows/mac only) but that didnt fix the bug. The Mousewheel kept being random. Until a couple of days ago when i noticed that it is less random then usual...and it only got better and the bug is all but gone now.
>
> I dont understand this.
>
> Why did the Firmware update needed time to gestate? What is going on?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xvbea/

----

> Hi there.
>
> I need a new keyboard and as I'm waiting for black friday week promotion, I can't choose between Logitech G513 and the new Razer BlackWidow Elite.
>
> ​
>
> What's your point of view ?
>
> ​
>
> Edit : One more : A friend is playing on a 21:9 34" monitor (3440*1440). I'm thinking of upgrading to it and then see the 38" (3840*1600) that exists. Is it enjoyable ? I certainly need a high end GPU to handle all of those pixels. Will my i5 4690 (4 [email protected]) be bottlenecked for those two screen size ?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y73tw/

----

> Hey guys I just bought a new pc on parts and I think I messed up. I bought a segotep sg-k8 case (with bottom mounted psu) and a psu (seasonic M12II-520) that is supposed to be top mounted.... I can still mount the psu in the case but I have to flip it upside down. Is that a problem? Thank you very much...

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y809h/

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Check the menus on the TV to see if it offers a selection what you want audio to be output from. The manual seemed to talk about a couple of ports that look like headphone jacks that are meant for special adapters that can be used to accept component or composite video input but makes me wonder if you can enable a mode that would flip one of those into a headphone jack output. Then you could get a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable and plug it into your speakers. But I really don't know if this is possible. Just curious what you might find in the settings.

Worse case, you can get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8

I would explore optical digital splitter.

Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2UeECb2XETCXB

your receiver appears to only have analog inputs. Which Xbox do you have? Assuming, its a "One" I don't believe it has any analog outs. So you'd either have to use the TV analog audio out (LIKE THIS if it had one) or convert the xbox audio

• TV Audio: If your TV has an analog audio out (red and white RCA port, similar to whats on the back of your receiver), hook Xbox to TV via HDMI then run the RCA cable from the TV to the receiver. (your receiver does have a Digital in, it's possible your TV would have a digital out port, though I've never seen that, you would hook that up the same way. Digital coax cable from output of TV to input of receiver). You may need to enable "audio out" in the TV settings.
  
• Convert: If you wanted to stay digital, you could convert the Optical (SPIDF / TOSLINK) out of the XBOX to the Digital (DIGITAL COAXIAL) in of the receiver with something LIKE THIS - You would also need digital coax and optical cables. Staying digital might play better with some surround sound formats and - depending on the quality of that converter, your ears and your speakers - will technically be cleaner sounding than RCA. Or you can purchase an optical to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) - which converts to analog sound, you will also need optical and rca cables. Or an HDMI to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) you will also need RCA and HDMI cables. Or an HDMI to digital converter (LIKE THIS) - you will also need HDMI and optical / digital coax cables.
  
  If converting, I would avoid the HDMI route, as HDMI can be fickle and "error out" when run through "cheap" adapters, especially if you are using 4k.

I would consider this

according to Panasonic website you have a SPDIF out. I woudl use that instead of the HDMI. HDMI is nice and all, I have had better luck with the output of the TV than the feed into the TV.

Something like this with a Y-cable?
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493659458&sr=8-3&keywords=optical+audio+adapter

You're looking for two dacs and a mixer essentially. I really don't think you'll find anything that does that in a single package. Even if you get three parts, It's not too expensive. Here's what you'd need.

2x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

1x https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

Im using one of these things https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8 but sound difference is very noticeable so i am still on optical directly from tv but it does get more and more frustrating for sure.

Besides the splitter cable, another solution is to use the optical output on the back of the console. You'd have to get some equipment to convert the SPDIF to RCA/3.5mm headphone (example) and input it back to your computer/elgato. But you're also not tied down this way.

e: I found a good overview video by Elgato here. Also Elgato has a video covering the Chat Link product here.

e2: The slim ps4 dropped the optical output so this method wouldn't work if you have a slim.

They came with the house that I bought, they are embedded in the walls. Basically all that I have right now are two wires dangling out of each speaker and my XBOX lol.

So let me make sure that I'm on the same page, I have an optical cable that leaves the XBOX and enters an optical to analog converter like this one, then I connect one cable and send it to one of the options that you sent me and it splits for both channels?

Will I get any kind of surround effect?

I'm a bit confused

You need to convert the output of the optical audio to analog and you need some wireless speakers. Can be done for less than $100. These two items should work to make it happen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CCSSOY/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8/

Ima pick up one of theseand if it doesn't work ill take your advice and get a new surround sound system. Thanks for all your help.

Why not just use an optical to RCA converter and keep it wired?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478388579&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=converter+optical+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51faC7v3pjL&ref=plSrch

Magni 2 Uber. I'd only consider the Micca Origen if I also need a DAC along with the Amp AND DSD playback.

*EDIT: Seems like the Origen + is 50% off, bringing it down to 99 bucks... In that case, it may be more prudent to get the origen + now and save the $50 for a future amp upgrade.

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/

Well if you really care about sound quality and isolation, you are better off ith an external solution, such as https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

/r/zeos is a great sub for stuff like this.

This handy little guide is right up your ally.

I personally just ordered the Micca OriGen+ today because I also need a DAC/Amp for the new HD 558's I ordered along with it.

And for just a little over $100, it's a steal. It's better than the E10k as well, and can handle more expensive headphones like yours. Watch the review for it in the guide I posted to see.

FX Audio DAC-X6 or the Micca OriGen+ would easily drive them if you need a DAC/AMP combo.

Otherwise, yeah the Magni 3 would be a good choice if you already have a DAC.

Hi mate, if you're looking for a smaller usb-powered unit, the micca ori gen is well rated at Zeos Reviews. Otherwise a Schiit Modi 2/Magni 2 stack will probably give you plenty of flexibility and power (or perhaps a Modi/Vali 2 stack if you want to get into tubes) if you want to spend a little more.

I recommend you purchase this, if your a headphones user:
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

It's a DAC/amp combo, works beautifully for driving all but the hardest of headphones. Zeos of /r/ZReviews loves it, and so do I.
For that matter, check out that entire sub for recommendations. You don't have to break the bank to have substantial upgrades in your audio experience.

You might want to consider a Micca Origen+. It's a DAC+Amp, is USB powered, and conveniently has the volume knob on the top.

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

ZReview of the original Micca Origen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxoU-oA6Z_c

I just ordered a Micca Origgen+ dac/amp. Another redditor said I would be fine with them and I would love them. Any thoughts? Think it could power the k12s?

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

If you want more bass and don't want to bother with an amp, get the Fidelio X2.

If you prefer a more neutral sound with wider soundstage and want to use an amp get the K7xx with the FiiO E10K or the Micca OriGen+

I'll usually try to get FLAC files to play, I'll settle for less though since I'm just looking for specific albums and such. I use Foobar2000 on Windows with the foo_out_ks plugin which handles audio stuff (I don't remember what it specifically does).

If you decide on buying an amp I'd recommend the Micca OriGen+, I was going to buy that originally but they don't ship to my country :/

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iY7A6KgI3_w

So if I get just a usb D/A converter that supports ASIO drivers that should do it, right? I found this https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1483284319&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=usb+dac+asio among other similar products

I'm getting the DT 770, but i don't know if i'll go with the 80 or 250 ohm since they're at the same price on amazon, i don't know what is the difference between them, is it that the one with most ohm (250) is louder even with less volume?

So apart from that, i'm also getting a DAC, but i don't know which one should i get Creative Sound Blaster E5 i don't know if this is actualy an DAC or an AMP, or Micca OriGen+ DAC, the mothergoad that i have is the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 and it does have Creative® Sound Core 3D chip.

This is just a knob with in and out

A headphone DAC / amp combo would have more features and act like an external soundcard. The Micca OriGen+ or the Schiit Fulla 2 are great options if you want something really nice.

Edit: added links

I hope this is the right place to post this, but I'm looking to buy my first DAC/amp. I've only ever used desktop/laptop/phone outputs and want to upgrade. I wanted to buy a DAC/amp combo rather than a dedicated DAC and dedicated amp for a few reasons: (but I'm open to being convinced otherwise)

1. price; I'm on a relatively small budget and a combo DAC/amp seems to be more cost effective.
   
   
2. portability; I move my desktop often and having to only move one device would be much more convenient.
   
   
   Budget: ~$100 max, preferably less
   
   Source: Almost exclusively my desktop.
   
   Current Headphones: ATH M40x and SHP 9500s. I know that these are super easy to power, but I'm looking to gain some improvement while also future proofing for when I buy something more demanding.
   
   I'm currently looking at a few devices, but open to other suggestions:
   
   
3. SMSL M2 ($65 on amazon)
   
   I like that this one is small (and therefore easily transported). I became interested in it after watching a rave review by Zeos. The only negatives I see are a lack of output options (not currently an issue, but might be in the future) and the fact that it uses 3.5 mm headphone out (I much prefer 1/4").
   
   
4. Monoprice DAC/amp ($67 on sale with promo code)
   
   I've seen mixed reviews for this one, but it's currently on sale and seems like a great value. Not sure how great it would do with my current low impedance headphones. I like the design and output options.
   
   
5. Micca OriGen ($100 on amazon)
   
   
6. SMSL M3 ($84 on amazon)
   
   Like I said, I'm open to other suggestions in the $70-$100 range.
   
   
   

I will be getting the Massdrop/Sennheiser HD 6XX headphones this year, but I believe that neither the DAC or the AMP on my motherboard will be the best way for me to enjoy them. As the 6XX are basically HD 650's, I will be basing my purchasing decisions off of those tech specs (300 ohms, 1/8" or 1/4" headphone jack). I also own HD 598 cs, which are 23 ohm headphones, 1/8" or 1/4" headphone jack.

Here are the DAC/AMPS/Combos that I have looked at so far.

Micca Origen+ - $100

Schiit Fulla 2 - $100

Schiit Magni 2 - $120

I loved the look of the Origen+, but upon finding out the Driver situation has made me a little more uneasy on purchasing it. I am also unsure if the Fulla 2 would be able to drive the 6XX's, so that is why the Magni 2 is on the list, but I am not sure if I am also in need of a DAC.

Help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Micca Origen+ DAC + amplifier. It sounds great, lets me switch between speaker and headphone outputs with the flick of a switch, and has a reallll nice volume knob. Even takes optical input as well so I can switch from PC to PS4 audio. Can't recommend it highly enough.

EDIT: Review here.

EDIT EDIT: Oop, that's the older version, here's the new review.

IMO, this one would be better: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC. That's the one I heard them with and I really liked it. But hey, Schiit is pretty good too!

I also use soundswitch, but I would love a hardware solution. I have looked into the Micca Origen+ Amp/DAC as it has a toggle switch so I can go from my speakers to my Sennheisers via hardware.

Hardware solution is intriguing to me because I often forget to switch output before loading up a game and most of my games require to quit and relaunch with the audio device you want to use as it will not switch in-game to your desired device. A minor inconvenience but if I can add QoL change plus provide better sound, I may splurge.

Looking to get my first DAC/amp combo to get the best output I can on my 598s. I'm having trouble deciding between the SMSL M3, the Fiio 10K, The Micca Origen +, or the new Schiit Fulla 2. Not looking to spend more than 100 atm so I'm just looking for advice on which to get as my first DAC/amp combo. If there is something better out there too that I might be missing please leave recommendations. A lot of the guides and forums that I visited don't say much about the Fulla 2 and how it compares in that price range so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I found this pc dac/amp on amazon, and after a bit of searching. Will I be able to plug my headphones AND speakers in at the same time, and use that switch on the front to change the output? Also, I've never used an S/PDIF digital input connection before, is it just a plug and go? Thanks!

Not sure if this is the right place to ask about DACs/amps, but I'm looking for one that has both USB and optical inputs.

So far the only one that I have found is the Micca OriGen+, but I'm wondering if there are other ones out there around the same price or cheaper.

The optical in the Modi 3 is an input; same as the optical on your Beam. The only output from the Modi 3 is RCA.

Something like this might help:

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW/

Disclaimer: I only just quickly searched Amazon for "rca in optical out", and have no personal experience with the product. But, in theory, it should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=analog+to+digital+converter&qid=1564434913&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMlAyVE5MTjU0M1FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTc1MTY1MjBGUEdNNzFPNUpTSiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzMyNjIzMjZZM1ZBRFVRU0FRRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I think this is what I would need right? I have this same one but it’s a DAC.

There are analog to TOSLINK converters. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW

And there are remote-control TOSLINK switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDZEWWO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B01A89OEUY

So, you could use a couple of those converters, and the remote-control switch.

That is a possibility but I like my current speakers and would like to not have a set of speakers for my TV and a set for my turntable. I searched Amazon and found an analog to digital converter, would that work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHNCMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1t9SCbT1JFZNF

Can I use an ADC along with a Fiio A3 amp to use a mic and hear on a PS4?

Absolutely.

​

I have a pioneer elite plasma that works great. It has two HDMI inputs and an optical out, but they won't work at the same time due to the hardware not supporting it.

​

I bought an analog to optical adapter from amazon and it works great. I personally don't have any issues with audio sync, but you can adjust for it if needed.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHNCMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have not tried this but for 5 stars out of 460 reviews, it must be decent.

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=ps4+headphone+amp&qid=1563101767&s=gateway&sr=8-13

I am looking for a relatively cheap DAC Converter to use with the PS3. I would like to use it to take in audio from the PS3's optical output and drive a pair of wired headphones with a 3.5mm connector. I am currently using the RCA output and an RCA-to-3.5mm connector, but am unable to increase the audio volume with that setup.

I am looking at possibly getting A or B. B looks a little nicer, but one of the answers to a question mentions (possibly incorrectly?) not being able to amplify audio. A says it has an audio amplifier chip.

Would either of these suit my purposes and does one seem better than the other? Or, do I need a separate amp for the 3.5mm signal? Thanks for any advice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LJIqDb4PV59P0

Maybe do the Digital output to this thing and then plug the RCA into it? The back of my tv doesn’t seem to have anything that says audio out, besides the DIgital Audio Optical.

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Yea I will eventually upgrade my speakers and amp eventually but for now I think this is the converter you're mentioning. I plug my digital out into that then plug the converter into my amp.

Okay, as far as DAC/amps go, if I do end up needing one do you think one of these would work, or is there another cheap alternative (preferably under $25)? Also, I'm more worried about needing one for the PS4, not so much as PC/Laptop, because I'd be plugging directly into the Dualshock controller. Who knows, it might sound great, but yeah.
https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

You could try using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PYN7L5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it for working my way through an action-heavy LP and the audio being out of sync (I was originally monitoring the audio through my PC via OBS Studio) was messing up both my game play and commentary.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927697&sr=1-4&keywords=dac Cheap work around.

Edit: Lol? excuse my cheap dac recommendation. Coworker ran a variant of one of these with a little bear was pretty decent for a cheap set up :) Also if you don't have RCA's out from your computer (which you won't unless you have a soundcard with them) this is a cheap solution. cheers

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F30N7YZGRQ0Q4RV2J4WY

What about that one and using my laptop's optical out?

Does this TV have an optical out? If so get one of these. It's what I'm doing right now to listen in my room with 2 of these. Otherwise I have no suggestions.

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428

• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  Digital conversion is a pretty mature technology. You don't need to spend any more than this on a DAC.
  
  
  
• Audioengine A5+ $400
  
  
  If you don't want a receiver, these are the #1 most recommended and well-reviewed powered speaker pair around.
  
  
  Passive Speaker Option - $268
  
  
  
• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  
  See above.
  
  
  
• Yamaha stereo receiver - $150
  
  
  Not a home theater receiver just two nice big amplifiers and some basic switching capability. You can control the volume with your cable box remote or buy a cheap Harmony universal remote they're really fantastic.
  
  
  
• Pioneer bookshelf speakers - $90
  
  
  One of the most highly recommended bookshelf speaker pairs to come around in a long time.

Do you think the schitt magni with the fiio d3 will work?

the o2 isnt available for me.

http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

If all else fails, get one of these.

The other guy is wrong. I had a TON of various feedback noise "hiss" until I got a cheap DAC which got rid of all of it, but I did eventually get a Scarlett 2i2. I have an XLR mic, the 305's, and headphones all plugged in and I never have to use computer settings to control anything. All volume is just adjusted in the 2i2. It's amazing.

This was the DAC I used originally. I would advise just jumping right into a 2i2 though, might as well save the $20. Eventually, your needs might outgrow the 2i2, but by then you'll have a better idea of what you need.

that looks awesome!

Yes well I do think I may have to go with a 2 way speaker for budgets sake.

Now are the type of DACs important. Are there variations of DAC. It means Digital to Analogue Conversion right?

I see some inexpensive DACs on amazon like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493260939&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41hlsUupiBL&ref=plSrch

But they are 24 bit not 32.

And then there's the amplifiers . are there any entry level diy amplifiers for this application.

Your setup is awesome looking. Maybe one day haha!

I don't know a whole lot about DACs, but my first thought with getting a USB DAC is wouldn't it still lead to interference since it's copper? If I got this would it be better, worse or the same? I don't need an amp, per se. My computer puts out enough for my needs.

Here is the mobile version of your link

I tried the same thing on my mobo but I got a lot of buzzing in my Magni 3. My motherboard has a SPDIF optical output, so I'm getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

Good cheap DAC that doesn't have USB input. The DAC is the last thing to spend money on, they don't change the sound much.

Good luck and enjoy your new Magni!

You're probably using the MB sound card if you're not sure. I highly recommend upgrading your sound card, it'll make your headphones sound a fair bit better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0044DEDC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1457313955&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+sound+card

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457314148&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+dac+fiio&dpPl=1&dpID=41l5DQfwtyL&ref=plSrch

You can always consider getting a DAC similar to this if you find a TV you like that doesn't have a 3.5mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1UG27DD7KR2HI&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521179769&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+optical+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41XxS0L762L&ref=plSrch

This is what you want, optical will get you the best sound quality. I personally wouldn't mess around with dirt cheap dacs. Just spend the extra few bucks and this one will last.

An external DAC?

Hope this is somehow related or helpful, but I've been using this DAC to connect Klipsch speakers to a TV and it works fantastically ...

i have this little amp with some small book shelf speakers and i love it http://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-LP-2020A-Lepai-Amplifier-Shipping/dp/B00FOK6974/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1405229745&sr=1-5&keywords=hifi+mini+amp best 20 bucks spent

and these are the small speakers i use to check mixes out in the living room and sometimes just to enjoy some tunes while cooking (condo, living room or kitchen? the lines blur),.they sound fair for the price
http://www.amazon.com/PLMR24-3-5-Inch-Weather-Speaker-System/dp/B001CXXDBM/ref=pd_sim_MI_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=12SZHXF0FR2DA98B7T3Y with a separate amp you can always upgrade the speakers.

these are 3 way but a little less cheap http://www.amazon.com/Dual-LU43PW-Indoor-Outdoor-Speakers/dp/B000A5S926/ref=pd_cp_e_0.

when it comes to near fields, to do actual pro work, for a good price, i went with the blue sky exo2.1 , they are full range with the sub, shielded because they are made for the desk, no bass reflex port on the satellites (the sound from the port holes comes out delayed, bad for mixing, unless very well engineered) and the woofer has separate control so you can turn it down because small rooms amp up the low end, all for for 500 bills (the price to value ratio is great, no doubt). if you find them used, the price is even lower. blue sky products are legit and you will have no need to buy monitors for a long, long time. i would save up, like 20 bucks every other day or so and in no time, you will have a legit, full range monitoring system that will gets even better with a little room treatment. all i know is "buy cheap, buy twice" http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/eXo2/

next is the equator d5 with dsp. i have not heard these live yet, but sometimes they are on sale direct from equator and they seem great on paper for the price http://www.equatoraudio.com/D5-Coaxial-Studio-Monitors-p/d5.htm but since i have not heard them like i have with my blue skies, i cant be anecdotal. here is a sound on sound review for a pro break down of their performance http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/dec12/articles/equator-d5.htm

and if you want to save money and have a truly great output to feed any monitor for 50 bucks, try the hifime diy sabre dac http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405237210&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=hifi+diy+dac, i using it now in between digital to analog converter upgrades and if you plug right out of the usb port on the computer (no hubs) it sounds great, like really even compared to dac's in several price ranges above. read the first review, http://www.amazon.com/review/RIXL3WSR02G6/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00AOH5JTQ you will get a little smarter about digital analog converters. its one of the best reviews on amazon i have ever had the pleasure to read, and check out the users other reviews, he does a few headphone units comparing their price to performance ratio and will blow you away with his technical know how and fluid writing style. like the one on the Beyerdynamic DT-990-Pro: http://www.amazon.com/review/R2BUTFCE473Q9V/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

i dont know much about recording gear, as im mostly a listener, i use an adc/dac from behringer and it sounds decent for 30 bucks and no drivers http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Downloadable/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1405238098&sr=1-2&keywords=behringer+dac
sounds better than a tascam i had, that was overbuilt and 3-4 times the price. i choose this not be cheap, my focus is just on listening, it was what i wanted.

sorry about the long post but i dont half ass my posts. its like playing those brain training apps for me but not boring and actually productive/practical. take care. my hands are injured, so im not bothering with punctuation and formatting!

I also came across these:
http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ

Would this option be any better than any of the other ones listed or should I just go with the lower priced ones?

I would probably try and use a Y Splitter and something similar to this. Not entirely sure if it'll all work together but it's the only thing I can think of that's basic enough to work in a car situation. Y Splitters can be tricky because some devices simply can't handle both the data and power input/outputs at the same time to make it worth using, and some phones don't even support Y Splitters at all. You may look into compatibility with your phone specifically. There may also be a better DAC that you can find that I couldn't. Everything else on Google was something either overly complicated, or wasn't the right product at all. Sometimes with Y Splitters as well, you can get the charging port to pass through the USB A port on the pigtail. So you may be able to find something that requires power but you can use the one cable. Most DACs though will use either their own power connector that goes out to USB or it will combine them into one and power via the USB. I use a cheapo DAC that converts my SPDIF to analog and is powered via USB.

What's your opinion of this DAC?

http://hifimediy.com/sabre-dac-uae23
http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ/

The sabre diy dac I was comparing my Mbox mini or mobo dacs to cost around 50 bucks by the way(Sabre DIY dac), but man, what a difference on the extreme high (air) and sub bass and its being fed into my bedroom system running a 20 dollar lepai amp. I'm not saying drop the life savings, just research and spend on the right thing. I find the dragon fly overpriced but it is superior to the sabre in various tests. If I were not planning on getting a dangerous music source for $900 (saving all year) I would def buy the dragon fly. The Dangerous music source is under priced for all the features it has, even the integrated headphone amp is mastering grade.

This is how I plan to save money for audio gear that I plant to keep for a long time 52 week money challenge

Yeah, but YMMV. Sometimes PC sound suffers from lots of noise/distortion, but that doesn't mean it necessarily does. If he does, he can go get a cheap DAC like the Sabre, use the same cable I linked below, and see if that improves it.

Oh hell, I picked out the wrong one. They look just alike. Here is the DAC alone.

That totally depends on what kind of file types you're running through your PC. I recently purchased a Hifimediy Sabre USB DAC for my 96k/24bit files and for the price it's amazing. If you're simply playing 320kbps mp3's don't bother. The money is better spent on speakers/headphones at that point.

Honestly this will suit your needs properly without being needlessly costly. Volume us controlled by your PC's volume keys and it requires no drivers(software on PC) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AOH5JTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451792223&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=HiFimeDIY&dpPl=1&dpID=31WSNd5LI7L&ref=plSrch

Thanks for the info! As I already put in the opening post, I ended up ordering this converter from amazon. It comes with cables and has good reviews, so that seemed a good value.

Does a TV's volume control really have no impact on the digital out coming out of the TV itself? That's kinda surprising. If that turns out to be the case, I don't think we want to spend that much money just for an audio solution for the kitchen TV. I mean, might as well buy a cheap new TV that has a headphones line out at that point and connect it the analog 2.1 computer speakers we already have. Or maybe a sub-$100 soundbar like this.

this? Mind if I ask why you need digital to analog?

RCA to 3.5mm adapter. Most DACs go from toslink/optical to RCA.

either buy separately (less $) or something like THIS

whats your budget for Amp/Receiver ?

and you just connect the optical out on the Xbox to the Amp/receiver then the 2 speakers to L/R out on the amp and the sub to the sub out on the amp/receiver.
or you can get the optical to analog converter then use any anlog amp with sub out ( but its not as recomended as getting a reciver).

Trying to improve my stereo home theater situation with a DAC. I bought a cheap one last month to improve my MP3 playback sound, and while it certainly isn't worse I can't say it's a noticeable improvement. My current setup is Mac Mini optical out -> FIIO D3 -> Yamaha CA810 stereo amp. I'm looking for the best bang-to-buck but I'd like to keep it under $200 if possible.

So to avoid hissing, could I plug my computer into this via USB and then run balanced TLR male to XLR female cables from it into the speakers?

According to the NwAvGuy, the Behringer UCA202 is a rather good DAC for the money.

If you're able to do some soldering, this Signstek USB DAC can be modified to be quite good, as described in this review.

Both of those are plug & play on Linux, no need for drivers.

depending on the DAC, a 3.5mm to RCA may not be necessary. for instance, this can go from PC via USB to the speakers via RCA

Could I use this to connect an AT-LP120 to the SP-DIF port on my Modi 3?

Not sure if this subreddit allows links but oh well.

The one I bought is this one https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=usb+dac&qid=1562188207&s=gateway&sr=8-4

It uses a generic pcm2704 chip which plenty of other cheap dacs use in a similar price range. You plug in the usb in one end and headphones in the little jack and it all works.

This might work.

The pictures look like it's all digital inputs, but the reviews say it's USB in and optical/coaxial out.

Why not use a usb to optical adapter? THen any board should work fine. How about this one https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517776886&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+optical+audio