Best standard electrical outlets according to redditors
We found 345 Reddit comments discussing the best standard electrical outlets. We ranked the 131 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 345 Reddit comments discussing the best standard electrical outlets. We ranked the 131 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Needs a 90 degree plug or a clock outlet.
Why in Sam's hell would you link to an image when linking to the product would be easier for interested/potential customers:
They make wall outlets where the usb is QC 3.0. This isn't one in OPs pic, but I just wanted to point that out because a lot of people dont known this.
I have the QC3.0 version of this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1T3IHF/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which I can't seem to find on Amazon for some reason.
Replacing a few outlets with USB outlets. Just plug in and charge, never have to worry about finding the adapter again.
One of the Leviton versions of this is $22.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C
You're buying 4 of the same type thing for less than the price of two Levitons.
Buy a real product from a real company that actually has assets to protect from liability claims arising from burning down houses from cheaply made garbage which incents them to make something that won't actually burn your house down.
You need to find one that supports 3 amp charging. I have one of these and it works great. Something like the TOPGREENER brand outlets might be better if you are charging tablets.
If it's one of these then the black one is in a proper outlet too. The smh is that she used two USB power bricks instead of the USB ports, defeating the purpose of the new outlet.
The USB ports are too far apart I think to fit a pronged plug into them.
Part of the point I am making is that it is UL listed, would be able to be installed commercially and by an electrician in new residential construction. Its not a Chinese piece of crap like all that stuff on ebay. Not all usb chargers can be taken equally either. You get what you pay for and a $10 usb wall plate charger is going to probably have pretty bad voltage ripple and the other problems that make crappy chargers crappy. If a client came to me and said I want usb ports in the wall this is what I would spec and I could sleep soundly at night knowing its not going to ruin his iPhone or burn his house down.
EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=pd_sim_hi_10 heres a cheaper one too. Its pretty obvious its that expensive because they had to fit that transformer and everything for the USB in a decorator outlet and still retain the duplex plug.
Or you can just take a rheostat or dimmer switch or whatever and and mount it in a wallbox inline with the AC and badabing badaboom your twenty dollar weller just got a whole lot fancier. The just use a thermocouple and sharpy to mark various temps around the dial.
It sounds like you have a hot-to-chassis fault in your computer's power supply. It is likely that your TV is grounded (either through the plug or via the coax cable) but your computer is not, so when you connect the HDMI current flows from the faulty computer power supply to the TV over the cable.
Can you try connecting a different computer (before replacing the TV) to see if the same problem occurs? If it does not spark with a different computer then you need to replace the power supply in your computer.
If possible, I would also recommend plugging both the TV and computer into the same power strip/surge protector. If the wiring in your house has a hot/ground reversal somewhere then it's possible that you're creating a fault path through the HDMI cable.
If it is indeed a problem with the wiring (i.e. a different computer doesn't fix the issue) then I would highly recommend getting an electrician to come out and assess the situation. There could be a major fire/shock hazard present in the home's wiring.
Finally, I would strongly recommend getting an inline GFCI protector like this one to put before your equipment. It sounds like you do not have working ground at this receptacle, so you there may be significant risk of electric shock. This will provide some protection against it.
They have PD.
The leviton outlets are only $19 stateside, we don't need electricians to replace existing outlets (though some people are more comfortable having a professional do it).
That said, the newer 'C' specification tends to be inherently more expensive, so I don't foresee outlets with full 'C' power delivery being that inexpensive.
You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. This is what they look like). They are very easy to install, just make sure you've cut power to the outlet by turning off the respective breaker/fuse.
Very nice, could've gone with these outlets tho for more USBness: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
nice build, one thing though, get rid of that chinese receptical, its a fire hazard, they werent even bothered to clean up the edges around the "TR" letters in the mold, who knows how there quality control is of the actual electronics. get a Leviton one instead, they come in every colour
These are even nicer. You don't have to use a power brick, it just replaces the existing outlet.
For your fish and your own safety, you should put the aquarium on a GFCI. You can buy adapters like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31s4w5u8lnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0B0YTWYAT9NVYTY8QP3T
If there is any current leakage into the water due to faulty equipment it will shut off the power.
I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+outlet
They also have this model - https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-TOPGREENER-TU1152QCAC3-Devices/dp/B01N1T3IHF/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+c+outlet
Super easy to install. I had two defective units (anti-tamper failed closed) but they replaced no questions asked.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407732574&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+outlet
I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhD5Bb0TBC6NZ
Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.
Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.
I use this dimmer and the matching switches:
Leviton Dimmer
I've also heard good things about the GE dimmer:
GE Dimmer
I'd say it really comes down to personal taste in the switch appearance between those.
Just installed these! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FREZ8VE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Edit: formatting
It would probably be a lot more generally useful and future proofed to just get regular AC voltage outlets with built in transformers and USB outlets.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/
That way as standards change (USB-A won't be around forever and USB-C can already handle significantly more watts than A was originally specified for) re-doing your charging infrastructure is as simple as changing out an outlet instead of having to mess with pintouts and potentially re-running wire.
This or any other smart switch, combined with a setting in your bios called "auto-on with power" or w/e and you're golden.
Came here to say this. I opted to install one with a pair of USB ports replacing one of the 3-prong receptacles, rather than the more common models with USB ports flanking the usual pair of receptacles (non-referral links to random products for reference). That way I know for certain I can plug in one "regular" thing (a wall wart for a cordless house phone in this case) and a pair of USB cords.
USB Outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615819&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet
Wall Mounts (3x):
https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Hanger-Vintage-Completes-Scooters/dp/B013F8H51U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615873&sr=8-2&keywords=skateboard+mounts
And lots of velcro tape to hold the AC adapter to the wall behind the board.
I know you already wired the plug, but if you had put in a recessed outlet you wouldn’t have this issue.
Leviton 689-W 15 Amp 1-Gang Recessed Duplex Receptacle, Residential Grade, with Screws Mounted to Housing, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKvUBbDNX0NJH
4 for $30
I would be looking at a issue with the power, measuring voltages, sometimes when there are wierd issues I use a voltage data logger over the weekend to see what the power is doing...but that's not a normal thing for people to have access to lol
On the cameras I install to be extra safe(as they are computers) I replace the electrical outlet with one that contains a surge protector like this:
Leviton 15 Amp Commercial Grade Tamper Resistant Decora Duplex Outlet with Surge Suppressor, White
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Tamper-Resistant-Decora-Duplex-Outlet-with-Surge-Suppressor-White-R00-T5280-00W/206126043
Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFVYDbF9FGRF0
It's a small investment that will help protect the cameras from surge and cant hurt
I have one of those by my chair in the living room.
I also recommend them for kitchen counters or wherever you rest your mobile devices.
Odd request but here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015R9M2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1394316241&sr=8-3
It's really nice because it has a really shallow design so that it doesn't take much horizontal space
We have several [Smart Life power plugs] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/), they do not require voice recognition -- anyone can say "Hey Google, turn off the kitchen fan" and it will turn off.
I just bought two of these off amazon. They charge faster.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_H9TbVFDANxL7s
No you won’t ruin an LED Light by turn it off and on or unplugging it while its on.
Personally I love the Wemo smart plugs. They have timers and can be controlled via your phone.
If you have use for multiple timers in one location like for your lights, power heads, CO2, bubbler or what have you there is a power strip on amazon
Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector - No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n5MGAbHC8Q7XS
You should get a replacement outlet with USB power outlets. Something like this:
TOPGREENER TU2154A 4A High Speed Dual USB Charger Outlet 15A TR Receptacle Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QStNxbDM025FE
There is now at least one manufacturer with 30-watt USB-C outlets.
Leviton T5635-W
I have a few of these installed and they work great! Link
I used this one
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ
You can control it remotely from your phone, setup schedules etc. Very useful.
You ONLY want power? If so then just put a blue box up and get a recessed outlet: LIKE THIS
I'm using this lamp cord with this grow light and these smart outlets for my monstera. Granted its a new addition so I dont have time to say if it works but I dont see why it wont. I have it around 2-3 feet above its upper most leaves and fashioned a shade out of black paper my wife had (its VERY bright). The outlets let me set a timer or turn it on and off remotely for whatever reason.
Just check the specs. But since they are drawing from the wall you can get some solid juice. They usually tell you which standards they are compatible with. For example at the bottom of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it has a comparison chart.
I have the exact same Leviton USB outlet in our kitchen at home! Works great, and as other's have said, the H outlet supplies 2A so you can charge iPad's and larger devices. So much more convenient than having to use a wall wart and it took about 5 minutes to install.
Mine is installed on a GFCI-protected circuit and works fine, too - tripping the GFCI master outlet causes this one to go off as expected.
I got mine from Amazon for about $20: http://amzn.com/B008O11IEY?tag=amz-link-20
Is this what you're looking for?
I think wall outlets with integrated USB are a bad idea. The electric plug and socket has been standard for a long time and won't change any time soon. USB is a frequently-changing standard and the connectors do not last as long as electric sockets. Instead of powering off the circuit breaker to update to a new USB standard, simply unplug the AC adapter and plug a new one in.
How about a power strip with built-in overload protection?
Something like this with built-in 15Amp circuit breaker (overload protection) and GFCI (ground/short protection). I think a GFCI is a good idea in van 120v systems since we can't properly ground our inverters.
(And here's the specs for that specific power strip)
I don't see any problems with using an induction cooktop if you can support. I've seen multiple people use them with good results.
Also, this is a really clean mockup! What did you use to make it?
EDIT: I'd also like to point out that there's a difference between surge protected power strips and overload protected power strips. They don't all have both. Also if you wanted, you could get a regular overload protected power strip and use a standalone GFCI adapter.
I use one of these bad boys when powering my spacebuckets > https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-16693-120-Volt-Automatic-Compliant/dp/B0037NXKY0/ref=asc_df_B0037NXKY0/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292994801192&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5733666199832525304&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001037&hvtargid=pla-310943999000&psc=1
and yet he managed to link to the wrong ones... sigh
here ya go
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407751653&sr=8-5&keywords=2.1+amp+usb+outlet
You seem to assume other people have had little or no experience with consumer electronics and networking. Perhaps you should rethink that assumption.
19% of Wemo smartswitch purchasers on Amazon give it [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wemo&qid=1565543795&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) - 1 out of 5 people. Kasa's [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kasa&qid=1565542758&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) are only 6% of reviewers. That is a major difference that's too big to be accounted for because some people are "vocal" about product problems.
Nor was it a "technical issue with something in the implementation on your premises." Nothing in any environment should be able to cause a Wemo switch to come on at random times each day without being programmed to do so. Nothing in the environment should be able to cause it to just lose it's ability to connect to the router until it's reset.
I've tried these switches in multiple homes, with multiple ISPs and multiple routers. Same flaky issues.
By contrast TP-Link switches in these same environments work perfectly. Wemo products are too unreliable to be sold as consumer devices.
The plugs I have were $10/each so I guess it's cheaper actually?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/
If you wanna run bigger stuff off of them get the 15A ones though: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS105P3-Anywhere-Required-Assistant/dp/B07HGSRF1R/
I bought this one. Works like a charm. You can assign each outlet its own name. USBs are grouped, but I don't really need to turn them on/off anyway
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I have a galaxy note 2 phone that charges at about 1.7A so I have 2A chargers scattered everywhere(even a few wall sockets with 2A USB plugs), so I was looking at the microusb chargers on fleabay and thought about bypassing the DNA's charging circuit and extending the SMT LEDs somehow integrating them into the case. The DNA wouldn't know when it was charging, but I could get an amp worth of passthrough on it.
Then don't use it without a GFCI.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UOU6OVU
eBay as well.
I'm using those exact bulbs with https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B005Y8JC6Q. Zero buzz or hum.
You might try something like this instead https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO/ if you need a better dimmer with good CFL/LED support.
This might help, this brand almost literally helps power NYC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GEtIDbR6AGP4M
You'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-16693-120-Volt-Automatic-Compliant/dp/B0037NXKY0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8ZQ3AEHXM9NFBYRQN4F
Install a recessed wall outlet that will be hidden from view.
>the little nob on the adapter has the screw on the front of the outlet running through it, so it should be grounded though, right?
Only if the screw is going into a metallic box which is grounded, which is unlikely.
If the box isn't grounded, you have no ground connection, which is unsafe, for example, if the live wire inside your power supply comes loose and touches somewhere it shouldn't, your entire case is now live.
To make it safe, using an RCD (aka GFCI) is accpetable, it detects whether there's any power leaking out of the circuit, for example, you accidentally touching something that's become live, and quickly switches the power off.
You can either get them as plug in devices http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-16693-120-Volt-Automatic-Compliant/dp/B0037NXKY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457152250&sr=8-2&keywords=gfci+plug, or as a wall outlet that replaces your 2 pin sockets http://www.amazon.com/TOPELE-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-Indicater-Wallplate/dp/B00X725S4Q/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1457152250&sr=8-8&keywords=gfci+plug
"Normal" depends on what outlet you buy. My outlets put out 4.0a total. Phones usually take 1.0a. Tablets usually take 2.1a.
TOPGREENER TU2154 4.0 Amp Smart High Speed USB Wall Charger Outlet, 15A TR Receptacle Free Screwless Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7GiSybK0SDJPM
Yea, my room in my apartment only has a northeast-ish facing window and a northwest-ish facing window, meaning some of my plants that need a lot of light were pretty unhappy for a while. Highly recommend investing in some plant lights. I found some relatively cheap LED grow lights on Amazon the other day for $16 that seem to cover all the necessary wavelengths that plants need. Get some timers (or smart outlets that you can put on a schedule) and BOOM never again is there a cloudy day in your apartment!
And yea just to reiterate what the other guy said, water based on when the plant needs it, not on a set schedule. You generally want to water them very thoroughly and then let the top of the soil dry out about a centimeter to an inch down. You're trying to mimic the plants' natural conditions, which for most plants means that they expect a thorough bout of rain to come and drown everything in water, followed by a dry period of no rain for maybe a week or two (but again, it's nature, so this isn't a set schedule), followed by another thorough bout of rain, and so on. Succulents of course require less water, while some tropical plants really like being a little more moist all the time. Good luck!
Kasa's smart plugs are 2 for $39 currently. I put my outdoor walkway and spot lights on their built in sunrise/sunset timer. Also using one for the Xmas tree (soon).
A bit over your price, but one for you, one for them! :)
Here was my solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ouISybSQ422WN
TP-Link’s kasa line seems rock solid in my apartment— many switches and plugs etc. HS105 is a simple smart plug (no energy monitoring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/
Anyway there are reasons why you may not want all wifi devices. When I recently did a house, I went for Lutron Caesta for many reasons, which is hub based.
BTW— I think SmartThings is great, but really doesn’t sound like what you need... it would complicate your setup needlessly.
Lastly, an Echo Plus or equiv. has a ZigBee hub inside, otherwise, you may be hard pressed to support your current smart plug.
You've got a ghost living where your camera is mounted.
Jk, I've never seen anything like this on my IQ outdoor. Since it happened to the last one too - maybe check the power outlet itself. Use a multimeter and make sure you're getting correct voltage. Turn off the breaker to the outlet and check the connections or maybe even replace it if it's old. They also sell receptacles with surge built in like this. Power surges or undervolting are just the first things that come to mind if Wifi connection has been ruled out. Did they replace just the camera portion or the power supply puck too?
Speaking of wifi, do you have it on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? A lot of people have been having issues with 5Ghz. I'm actually thinking about buying a second access point to run on a different 2.4GHz wifi channel dedicated to my cameras/IOT to take some of the load off my main network.
Question: If I was interested in a wall receptacle, would something like this be a good purchase? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Where is the outlet? Is the outlet itself accessible? You can buy a switch/outlet combo, wire the switch to control the outlet (they usually don't, but it's easy to do), cover with a suitable weatherproof enclosure, and then control the outlet and anything plugged into it with the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO/ref=asc_df_B017KUEWCO
Unless you care about quick charging your phone. There's a myriad of "standards". Although Google has settled on Power Delivery (PD), so if you're in their ecosystem and install PD capable USB outlets you should be safe for a while. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5635-W-Delivery-Charger-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B07PTWG5DV/
Amazon sells a version with two outlets and two USB ports for about $12 each.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502483762&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet+plug
I don’t know of one.
But just wanted to make sure you were aware of the outlets that has USB integrated. just one example
I don’t think you’ll need something special, just something that is rated for 15 Amps.
If it’s possible, I’d keep where the extension cable and EVSE connect off the ground, in case of flooding.
If you’re really worried, you could get a GFCI on the outlet that will shut off electricity to the EVSE.
Extension Cable
GFCI
CHEAP OPTION: Find a USB powered speaker you like and is in your budget and just get a cheap 2 port USB wall plug. I wouldn't mess with splitters/adapters when you're talking about power. It won't sound great because you really can't get a whole lot of power through USB. It only runs 5V at 2A which is 10W.
WHAT I DID IN MY KITCHEN: I bought one of these outlets to run 2x 120v plugs and 2x USB plugs. This solves your problem if you're handy. you get the 120v for a nice speaker and USB integrated to run your dot.
BETTER OPTION: Figure out a budget. If you're looking for under $50 I'd get the highest reviewed portable speaker that has a headphone jack on it. Get a 2x usb wall plug and 2 cables that are the same length and a 1' acc cable.
Yes. Yes they are.
Dimmer.
Switch.
I have something that's $15.22 but I'll still show it anyways because it's super cool :D
They sell these things on amazon, that allow you to plug your usb cables directly into your electrical outlets, as opposed to plugging in the bulky chargers etc.
Maybe I'm just a super nerd but I think it's really cool :)
You could use these outlets instead.
Not sure why you were down voted.
Anywho, these are the ones I installed around my house:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Easy to install, too. You don't really have to have an electrician do it although you can if you want to be safe. You can always watch a few videos on youtube on how to install these as long as you follow simple rules like "pretend the wire is always hot" (kind of like pretending the gun is always loaded, even when it's not).
Basically, shut power off at the breaker for the plug you're working on, take off faceplate, pull wiring out, take note of cables, colors, etc and connect them to new plug. My wires were white, black, and no-color (copper, which was ground/neutral).
I put these USB outlets in a few areas around the house where I typically charge my phone or am sitting for awhile - near the beds, at the kitchen island and drop zone, by the recliner and bar, etc. Make sure to get ones that provide a high-mAh output. Mine put out 2.4mAh at each port, not total. I didn't bother with QuickCharge compatible but you could.
I just built my house a few years ago and had Cat6 Ethernet wired to each room along with RG6 coax. I do wish I'd have had the contractors put in conduit to make running future lines easier, so you could consider that. (Home theater down the line? Run conduit so you can hide your cables and receiver elsewhere! etc.)
If you're handy or run power tools in the garage often, consider a subpanel for the garage with some 20A circuits. I trip my 15A circuits once or twice a summer when I have a shop vac, table saw, and maybe one other device running simultaneously, and when I eventually get into welding I'll be limited by my lack of 220V out in the garage.
If you want security cameras outside, you could think about running Ethernet out to some soffits and using PoE compatible cameras.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck!
This is the one I picked up prior to powering on my SpaceBucket and I haven't tripped a breaker. $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note, prior to the SpaceBucket, in the place I am currently living (has bad wiring and circuits) and I was tripping breakers.
I never once tripped and i've been running my SpaceBucket(s) for over 2 months now.
Thanks for the suggestion. I do have the power to the tv in the recessed outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484360886&sr=8-1&keywords=recessed+outlet
That is what I have. I think using a 6" flexible extender as mentioned above is going to be the best fit.
Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.
While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.
It looks like [these are 2.1 each] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/) if that helps any.EDIT 1: On further reading, that is incorrect. My apologies.
EDIT 2: [These are rated at 4.0 (2.0 each)] (http://www.amazon.com/ENERLITES-Charger-Receptacle-Tamper-Safety/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=pd_cp_hi_2) which seems just about your speed.^1
1: And mine, they're going in my wish list.
> LED indicator light glows to notify user that device is charging and will go off when a full charge is achieved
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4
Here's the Amazon link http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407759817&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+wall+outlet
I did not know anything about 0-10V when I bought these lights so I'm glad I found this out. Found this low voltage dimmer, think this will work?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRMX1-1LZ-Universal-Magnetic-Voltage/dp/B005Y8JC6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466420347&sr=8-1&keywords=VRMX1-1LZ
If your dropping new power or if you have an outlet up there for your projector already grab a normal short surge protector and swap out the outlet for a protected one Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GH0zxb01Y2BET
If you've never messed with power before grab an electrician, as far as the tv boxes generating heat separate them and out them behind the exhaust of the projector
Blocking the socket is fine if you have it suspended above by magnets. Technically it's not even a permanent installation that way.
Yes you would need to install a new box, but you would need to anyways if you were looking to put the tablet at the right height with hidden power. And the box I linked is good for new work or old work so you could easily retrofit it into an existing wall. If you have a place to rats nest a transformer then you have a place for this.
Even better than a transformer is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
Then just lay a thin QI mat on top
https://www.topgreener.com/type-c-usb-charger-outlet-quick-charge-3-0.html
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Greener-TU21548AC-Receptacle-Interchangeable/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Upgrade to tamper resistant outlets. They are now code in many states, and are quite cheap. They work by having a gate over the top two holes, that only moves IF both prongs are being inserted.
A apologize for my confusing question. I hope this helps:
Out of battery, in to dc-ac inverter (linked above).
Out of AC-side of inverter. Into the back of a wall plug like this one. This will be installed into a wall and used to power stuff.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: like this one
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
[Leviton 5280] (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=pd_cp_hi_1) I have used these in a number of projects and they are by far the best option in tight spaces.
I highly doubt that asrocks full spike protection can help against a thunderstorm. Do you have any source on that? There are worlds of difference between that and protection against a faulty psu.
Get the Gigabyte, and a Mehrfachsteckdose mit Überspannungsschutz, according to https://www.test.de/Steckdosenleisten-Viele-sind-nicht-sicher-4248836-0/ the APC Surge Protector is fine. It costs 19€ on amazon: https://www.amazon.de/APC-PM5-GR-Protector-Überspannungsschutz-Essential/dp/B00TAS2E84.
I have already purchased this for the GFCI issue. I hadn't thought about the current capacity of the cord though.
At my work we have some nifty recessed receptacles but they seemed a little out of my price range for this project. The cheapest I could find was this but what I did has much more functionality for a similar cost.
This is interesting, and good information to know, but now I have some follow up questions.
You probably want something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_52pik6sfkh_e
Sorry for not being clear on this.
It's currently a single unit with two outlets in it (like this).
One of the two outlets is "always on", the other is controlled by a switch (so you can plug in a lamp or other light source that is then controlled via switch at the door vs on the light).
I was hoping to swap the existing unit for one that included USB ports. I wanted to maintain the 1 outlet always hot, 1 controlled by switch configuration I already had.
According to /u/trekkerscout they do not make a receptacle unit that will allow that so I'll have to choose to have the whole thing be on the switch or the whole thing always on.
As far as the safety warning, thanks for the reminder. I always kill the power at the circuit breaker (and I make sure I do it myself, I know a few guys who have had issues because their buddy/dad/colleague killed the wrong breaker so I take extra care to make sure it's right) but it's a good warning anytime you deal with exposed wiring.
Tada!
TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k4NxzbVXBY9RE
Get one of these, a few feet of romex and a new work box and you should be good to go
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-High-Speed-4-8A-24W-Receptacle/dp/B01FREZ8VE
I have these in all my bathrooms:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DJGXHHCADBVS60H83K3
Not very bright, just enough to be able to see the edges of things.
See for example [this](USB C Outlet by TOPGREENER | USB Wall Outlet, Wall Outlet with USB C, TU21548AC 4.8A-24W Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet, 15A Tamper Resistant Receptacle, Interchangeable Face Covers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hyytzbK553RGB) and [this](Anker PowerCore+ 20100 USB-C, Ultra-High Capacity Premium Portable Charger, 20100mAh External Battery, 6A Output Type-C Port for Macbook, Nexus, Nintendo Switch & PowerIQ for iPhone iPad & Samsung https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZO46LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vzytzb2EKE0Q1).
I've got a set of these coming today. They use the "Smart Life" app but I would think can be integrated into ST or another app. I don't have much experience with time-based routines but maybe there's a repeating setting or maybe an IFTTT routine could help. At least these are cheap plugs you can use.
Replace the outlet with one of these?
EATON TR7740W-K Combination Electrical Receptacle, 125 V, 15 A A, 1.9 x 3.8 x 5.9", White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NC5GI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cR4Cb54KRGKS
Apparently if you only use one of these ports, you should have 30W delivery.
I finally settled on these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C
Highly rated Tamper proof and GFCI, I'll try out one or two and if they work I'll go hogwild and replace them all.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPELE-LD-UR01-Resistant-Charger-Receptacle/dp/B019SPHRMG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WFXK3DMCZ5WZ30EB4K2S
Not sure if the exact model.. these newer usb wall outlets have the amps needed for a s7 or note or such. 4.2 amp out .
Yes, they're new, and they're expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Edit: I have not used, nor endorse this product. Use at own risk. The reviews show some worrying information, such as the type C port is not actually UL listed, and under resistive load shows dangerous temperatures.
This one looks exactly like op's outlet and is 5V 4.2A
Comments on this one show it delivering 2A to both ports:
TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N75xzbE2XC9A1
Oh, I didn't realize. Hmm any of these is certified?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SJ7Z7DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/
https://www.amazon.ca/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-Commercial-Auto-Reset-Grounded/dp/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MM3Z6C
That looks like absolute shit, like holy hell.
Couldn't even be arsed to align the damn things.
Like, for $20 you could accomplish exactly what he did, and retain your original outlets.
Sure, I'd get this receptacle instead http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
:p
Normally a fan of Cooper, but like this receptacle for USB. You can actually fit something in all sockets on it at the same time as long as you are not using a bulky ac adapter.
http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-Combination-Duplex-Receptacle-Charger/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422235047&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=leviton+usb+wall+receptacle
I don't have a resource for exactly what you're looking for and I'm not sure what your use case is, but you could also think about swapping out the outlet itself for an inset outlet such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=inset+outlet&qid=1555988238&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Install this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
No I’m talking about in wall protectors
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN/
​
I already have this setup to control some LED light strips in my house but have to use it's app or alexa to control it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079239CYM/
Also have a EUFY vacuum I haven't looked into yet - but I know it's in Alexa...
Run separate circuits for lights and outlets. If they share the same circuit, the light may dim when you have a load on it. Especially in the kitchen where you may have kitchen appliances drawing high loads.
Separate circuit for each room if possible.
Outlet outside near the eaves if you plan on putting up Xmas/outdoor lights.
I just replaced a GFCI outlet with the ones that has a built-in nightlight and I gotta admit, it's pretty darn useful. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503093808&sr=1-1&keywords=gfci+night+light
Run 3-wires to all ceiling lights where you may want a fan. This will allow you toggle the fan/lights separately.
Be aware of where you place your switches in case you want motion-sensor switches.
Go wild on placing outlets everywhere. Don't limit it to one per wall. Have some in the hallways for your vacuum or night-light.
Have an outlet in your medicine cabinet if possible. To charge your shaver/toothbrush.
Outlet near your toilet (you'll never know if you're going to install those fancy toilet seats). Also nice if you have to charge your phone while taking a dump.
For kitchen counter, install those outlets with the USB plug. My wife said it was stupid at first, but now she uses it all the time while cooking. Install one in the pantry, too.
You'll need a separate one for the disposal, dishwasher, range, microwave, and oven if you plan to go electric. Run one anyways even if you go gas... Never know what will happen in the future.
For low voltage (data-cables), use conduits everywhere.
Also if you are unsure of how to replace an outlet, you can buy a GFCI outlet adaptor. Just plug it in.
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UOU6OVU&pd_rd_r=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX&pd_rd_w=lm9kA&pd_rd_wg=vDC22&psc=1&refRID=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
I just tried charging mine with a couple different USB chargers.
I'd say if you need a charge and you don't have the supplied 2 amp brick, turn off the tablet first and you should be good.
Replacing the ceiling receptacle with one of these is also an option.
Ja mislim da ti je pametnije uzeti Surge Protect kao npr ovaj.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499740310&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton%2Busb&th=1 ?
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE
For the price I find that they meet my needs.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjQv7Hksb_lAhVpc98KHcaGBI0QFjAFegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw0Mqy82KmdoOBWB2I1u6s48
Combination USB Charger
I want to list two more things, but RULESSSS Ughhh.
They look like this.
Here's an example of one with USB ports.
It's one of those things: There are probably more pressing issues in your house, but it's a relatively inexpensive and simple change. In my case, one of the outlets I'll use regularly is worn out, so I'm going to replace it with a USB-port outlet, since I often charge my tablet there. Over time we'll replace other switches and outlets in that room with the decorator style.
Maybe skip the brick and get something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_iy4nybNHD8GA4
Oooo brb off to Amazon!
Edit: oh man, thank you!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1T3IHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QjBXCbKV8BZCX
Seriously, they're $15 and stupid easy to install. Not to mention old hat.
The freezer cord plugs into the wall outlet socket mounted on the back side. this plus this.
That outlet is powered by the controller, which is powered through the cpu socket.
It takes about an hour for 2000W to increase 6 gallons of water by 100F. I'd predict that you're going to need about 2.5 hours to get to temp.
I've been mashing and brewing with a cobbled together system that includes a 1500W heat stick and 1000W sous vide and some big hop screens that act like brew bags. I actually run the sous vide in the mash and boil (works great until the volume drops and the sous vide propeller starts sucking in air). At those wattages though, it takes awhile to get to the desired temps. Recently I got another heat stick and a pump to recirculate and ran power over from another circuit. I think it'll be a little closer to using propane now.
BTW 2500W is too much for a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I happen to have a 25 amp breaker on the circuit where I brew. And don't forget GFCI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/
This should do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J3PMU4C?pc_redir=1409472304&robot_redir=1
I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Y8JC6Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails
It has a matching remote switch.
Geeni is listed as a possible brand that the GH can connect with and they have a 4-outlet + 4 USB smart strip.
I have and like this outlet a lot. Bit more streamlined than that outlet cover.
http://i.imgur.com/ZnToBim.png
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=nosim/appleink
Hmmm yes, lame. My outlet looks like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FREZ8VE hopefully that like doesn't change
There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I actually put this one in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It does not have a breakable tab though but thought I would show you one with a lower price.
They work great, no issues. On both of our phones, they trigger the "charging rapidly" function. I got them from Amazon. Looks like the usb ports are rated for 4.2 amps.
Whoa. That's scary. Not to hi-jack the thread, but any issues with these?
Teckin smart mini smart outlets. I just needed any-old smart outlets for turning some extra garage lights on and off via my phone when needed. There is a bedroom above the garage- so the thought of a fire is scary.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why not just replace the outlet with a USB outlet?
Yes, it is.
Firstly, it is not "like saying that micro USB replaced usb A". USB A was always the intended host-side port with micro USB being one of many device-side ports. USB C is the host and device side port.
But as USB ports in the wall are intended for charging, the much more important difference is in the charging standards supported. The USB C connector included a real charging standard not supported with USB A connectors. One can, of course, trickle-charge a USB C device from a USB A port with the appropriate adapter. But devices intended to charge via a USB C port do not ship with the old style wall wart with a USB A port. It is USB C on both ends of the cable. Because USB C is meant to replace USB A.
EDIT: TL;DR: I think you are giving poor advice because you don't know what you are talking about. If I were installing USB wall outlets I my house I would not install anything without a USB C connector. And manufacturers are making them with both because USB A is not a substitute for USB C.
I think it's a very nice plug, no question. I'm not sold on the usefulness of having a fuse in an individual cord. I can count on one hand the number of times that I have actually had a circuit breaker or fuse pop correctly, and it seems like fuses go bad for no reason more often than they go bad for a good reason. As evidence of this, think of how many times you have just replaced a fuse without having to fix anything else - that's a sign that the fuse shouldn't have blown in the first place.
In the US, we do have plugs now that require both prongs to be inserted simultaneously, making it similarly impossibly to stick a screwdriver or whatever in there (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5320-W-Resistant-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0015R9M2Y/ref=sr_1_131?ie=UTF8&qid=1421376706&sr=8-131&keywords=safety+outlet). As I understand, these are code for new construction in some places. I view these as the best of both worlds - safe, but no ground prong required when not needed.
The final thing is that the UK plugs have nonconductive prongs except at the tips. I am not sure if this is doable with the US plug as it is much more narrow, and any plastic may break. It would be really nice if we could have that too.
So I'd call that a 1 point advantage and the UK plug still wins.
Smart Plug Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT for Voice Control, Teckin Mini Smart Outlet Wifi Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required, White FCC ETL Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVST9YN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JL3VDb8NJB308
What I use. Works wonderfully.
Just for a precursor, I'm attempting to setup the ultimate man cave. I'm more than happy to shell out the extra cash for a product that flat out works, however as were all aware sometimes you pay for a brand.
I feel like Alexa may be a bit of a disappointment compared to google in many aspects as well as comparability. When I originally began my research I was thought I was set on Alexa. Prime member for years, Amazon card holder, ext. I believe the Echo show is an amazing product(In the right direction anyway), would you happen to know if google plans on realeasing a tablet such home as the Echo? I would really love the ability to use both voice and hand control commands all in one, so I've looked into the Logitech harmony as well. Shoot even if the voice is limited(as I expect it to be, I would be perfectly content being able to control everything with one remote and some voice features being a bonus) Which I believe the Logitech may be able to as it has its own hub.
Side note I'm also trying to load up on some smart wifi outlets, there's several different brands and I'm confused as to if each will require a different app.
For example I love this product if it works in theory!
Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w90JzbVZPK7AP
However I will also need some smaller units smart outlet units for a single item here or there. If the previous link works, am I limited to only products correlated with their brand(Geenie I believe) to control through just one app? I've read great reviews for Wemo, TP-Link, and Etekcity as well. They just all have slightly different options I may or may not prefer, and it would be frustrating having 6 different apps.(Which is why I was wondering if the Eharmony may resolve that issue). The Smart surge protector seems really awesome to me. I could have my lamps on each side of my bed, aroma therapy, an extra outlet, and the 4 ports supposedly work individually for the price of most of the other wifi single plugs. As well as the snazzy extra USBs that always come in handy.
Sorry for the beginner question.
The solution to me is to get all of the same brand, but I always love to hear others expierences and recommendations!
These reviews aren't all that mixed... These are ones I like personally.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425660653&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+outlet
Sure, just get a switch with the gfci combo. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO