Best automotive touchup paint according to redditors
We found 196 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive touchup paint. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 196 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive touchup paint. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.
I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sand it down. Touch it up with this Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and don’t stress.
I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS
Get this kit and follow the directions, it works really well :) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a product called VHT Nightshades its transparent paint if done correctly.
VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cGjQDb8187N92
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Reports say you can sand down the afflicted area of the rims and use this to make the blemish disappear.
His forehead.
Just kidding, I don't endorse any violence. Especially since I scratched my own too.
I read that this touch up paint is a good match
Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey is an incredibly close match to the wheel color. I would highly recommend you pick up some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the rash and paint over the marks.
This will probably happen again, so it will be nice to have an in-house solution. If you want tutorials, just search “dupli-color” in the various Tesla reddit communities.
Touch Paint
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3
Edit: watched a few YouTube videos of Tesla Curb Rash repairs and find the one that best fit for you. I watched this guy for pointers
https://youtu.be/gQGrX3-MwZA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is an exact match to black aero, from what I’m told.
This is what I see recommended on this sub. I ended up buying the Dupli color stick and some sand paper too. Have yet to find the time to do it.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJy6CbD6KH8DM
That colour is called Patriot Blue, code DT8991. Amazon sells a can here!
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EDIT: I am dead wrong, it is in fact Midnight Blue, Patriot Blue was not available in 2006.
I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.
This will fix you up , perfect match.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I use this, from Amazon. Everything you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-70-749203-3PK-Chain-Ultimate-Aerosol/dp/B00FFZU25S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482030987&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+wax
This is the one I saw someone post a few days ago.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-IWCbR0XGE43
Just ordered one earlier today.
Depending on how much rash there is, other users use this touch up pen to simply recolor the bare metal, as it's a near perfect match for the original rim color.
I picked up a Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey for Ford at a local auto store for $15 and it's almost an exact match.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/
For those, like me, who don't build plastic models:
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.
I see this one recommended often for the aero wheels and can confirm, It’s a really good match.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've used VHT's Night Shade previously. Basic rattle-can application.
thats not any more than basic surface rust.
Get one of the Duplicolor paint pens in your color, your car's paint code is on the sticker in the drivers door frame, they typically have a hardened "sanding" tip used for cleaning scratches before paint. use the pen's tip to clean the surface rust off, then use the base coat to touch up over the exposed metal, this will protect it from further rusting in the future.
The easiest thing to do is get some touch-up paint from somewhere like Automotive Touchup and fill it in. If you're really ambitious, you can fold a piece of sandpaper (800 - 1000 grit) and lightly sand the rust (be careful not to scratch the surrounding paint -- you ONLY want to sand inside the chip). You won't get all the rust off, but it'll ensure the paint adheres. That step is optional, so don't worry if you can't do it. Next, make sure you clean the surface good with rubbing alcohol or prep solvent before applying paint. I would also recommend getting a more precise applicator to make the job easier. You can also chip off the reaming piece of paint that is raised and fill that in.
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If the chip is deep (which this one looks like it is), then you can apply multiple coats. Just make sure you let the paint dry between coats (the paint should have instructions for how long that'll take). It's not going to look perfect, but it won't be rusty anymore.
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And finally, you can get some clearcoat to ensure the touch up is shiny like the rest of the car. For your context, most cars are painted in what's called base coat/clear coat. Meaning there's two layers of paint: (1) a bottom layer which is the color -- in this case, the grey (this drys in a matte finish); and, (2) a top layer of clear paint which makes the car shine (this, obviously, dries shiny). The color touch up you get is the base coat and will dry matte, so if you want to match the car's finish, you'll also need the clear.
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Hope this helps!
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.
Looks good. Other people have posted that getting a new Aero wheel from a service center is only $200, but this type of repair is a nice option for people that aren't close to one. Plus I'm sure theres labor and stuff on top of the $200.
This touch-up pen is a great match for minor damage.
Here you go: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hylomar Blue
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY
They may be custom and not just tinted. But I think masking off the circles and using [NightShades](VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9tbVDbD97SR29) would get a similar effect.
I've used VHT Nightshades on my tail lights before, then putting a few coats of clear on top of that, then wet-sanding and polishing. Turned out pretty darn good. This might be a similar application if you are willing to experiment. You can find them cheaper at local Auto part stores.
If that is all the actual rust, I dealt with rust spots about that size on my NB. I first used a sanding pen to sand the rust down. Then I applied some OEM Touchup paint. Last thing, I used Langka blob eliminator to form it to the rest of the paint. You can't tell its been touched up from about 10 feet away, any closer than that and you can tell. Better than leaving rust to sit. Here are links for all of those things.
Sanding Pen
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN8H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blob Eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BMB0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Micro Brush (Helps with touchup, sometimes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6D0207/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best part about the blob eliminator, if you mess it up you can use it to completely remove any touchup paint, and not damage the OEM Paint. The stuff is magical for small touchup spots, work on it until you are happy with the results. Will be much cheaper than 450$
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/
Its for Ford, but it works great with the aero wheels and is almost indistinguishable up close.
I can't remember if I saw it here or on Facebook but it happens frequently. Just happened to my car too. Some people have down an at home repair by sanding the damaged area with increasing grits then using this touch-up paint.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No need to sand down to bare metal if the paint isn't pealing. Just take a red scotchbrite pad and scuff them up real good so the new paint will bite and get good adhesion. Wipe them down with some wax and grease remover, then mask them up to keep over-spray from getting everywhere and shoot some SEM trim paint on them.
That’s pretty extensive.
I was talking simply about this one (or whichever one matches your car’s color, not sure if it’s this): Honda 08703-NH877PAH-A1 Paint Nh877P, 0.44 fl. oz, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NA0OWNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PSjLAbCN75Y0A
You may need some fine sand paper to soften the edges, but that little pen works quite well in my experience. It’s what the user above was talking about, too.
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CA300-Red-Temporary-Paint/dp/B000FNAEJO
That's terrible. I've loved Infiniti since I bought my G35 coupe and later a G37 sedan. Their functional engineering is one thing that I always appreciated and this seems totally unacceptable for their standards.
Luckily, a little touch up paint and you'll probably never notice these. stuff on the roof is simply not very noticeable. Just remember to use touch up paint applicators to get a nice even layer:
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70
It sounds like there's not much you can do since they never issued a recall. I'd recommend applying some clear bra or something comparable in that area once you've touched it up.
Does the car still have any B2B warranty? If so, you should be able to successfully argue this is a warranty issue. See if they'll pay to get this professionally repaired. THEN definitely don't forget to apply the clear bra on the areas where they had been damaged.
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ESHD10007-Shadow-Black-out-Coating/dp/B003E2AC0E
Use SEM trim paint. It's extremely easy to use and gives an OEM matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O
I mean, you technically could, but you’re likely not going to get good results. If the colour is even slightly different to the rest of the paint, then it won’t blend and you’ll have a visible spray mark on the grill. Avoid wiping overspray as well, that would just smear the paint around and could make things worse. You could possibly put tape around the scratch as thoroughly as you possibly can, and then spray with the tape protecting everything other than the scratch.
I’d personally recommend the dupli colour paint pen method, and I have a solution for helping you find the right colour. All you need to do is find all the spray can paints that dupli-colour makes, and find one with a lid that matches the colour you need. Once you find a paint that will work, read the label for the paint name, and then go find that paint in the pen version. Dupli-colour paints are basically just replica paints for all the automotive manufacturers out there, so I can 100% guarantee they would have a paint pen you could use. You’ll likely need to bring your speaker with you to the store so that you can compare the grill colour to the lids of the spray cans. Hope that makes sense 👍🏼.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI
Here you go
Short of rolling the car into the hardware store to scan, for best results I'd suggest...
https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Lacquer-Touch-up-Paint-Metallic/dp/B07CH33FDS
Buy something like this. Spread some on a piece of primered scrap steel, have your local paint/hardware store scan that with their fancy color scan tool.
The resulting paint likely won't have the same veneer as the car, since most people don't clear-coat a house. Some metallic elements also might not show up as well, but the hue should be pretty close
Its a good looking color. Hope your paint project comes or looking just as good as the car.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537665648&sr=8-1&keywords=SEM+Trim+Black
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Tape off and paper anything you don't want to be black. Scuff with a grey scuff pad and spray it. If it's cracking or pitted you may need to go after it with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Prep with a degreaser or IPA before you spray it.
I used this, with like 3 or 4 super light coats. I didn't want it to make them useless, I hate blacked out lights. I just wanted a little less orange.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6
VHT Nightshades works pretty well so long as you take your time and do it properly. That said folks I know who've done it have had to upgrade their taillight bulbs after because they went so dark it was dangerous, you could hardly see the lights illuminating during the day.
As far as I know, there are 3 methods.
First, you can use the sticker window tint and hope you can get the creases out. It seems like a long-shot so I avoided it.
Second, you can possibly tint the plastic by dipping it in warm fabric dye. Some people have said that it doesn't work, others have said that it warped their plastic. So I avoided that too.
Lastly, you can use a spray paint called Nightshades. It is used to tint taillights on cars, but people have used it for helmets and other plastics before. I just tested it out on some spare plastic tonight, and it looks like it should work. You just have to be really careful about scratches and dust as they will magnify in the tint.
TL;DR Use the spray-on tint Nightshades (Amazon).
VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Cp0XDb75VZ842
Unfortunately there's no magic to it. Carefully sand away (2500-3000 grit) the previous poor touch up job (use the sandpaper wrapped around the credit card trick). Make sure you get rid of all the crappy prior job, then clean it up with isopropyl alcohol. Then start laying in the paint, then the clear coat, making sure you keep it as level as possible so you don't have a bubbled up bit of clear. Then if you have the time/patience you can wet sand and polish to really perfect it (that depends on the severity of the chip/scratch if it's worth it)
A tool like this, or this is incredible for touch up, since the brushes that come in most bottles are too big to be useful. This video shows him using that tool, and how useful it is. I can't recommend it enough.
Literally my post from a few days ago lol. I got this per a Redditer’s recommendation.
This stuff has worked well for me
Also for piece of mind, the aero wheels themselves are only like $200-250. With new tpm sensors and install it costs a bit more, but the bottom line is the damage isn't bad.
If you want a cheap fix, the "Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. " is only $13 and allegedly will cover up some of that. Not sure how it looks if doing more than a small portion though.
Okay, I'll try to get this done on mobile.
Headlights: heat them and pop them open. It's honestly a huge pain in the ass Lol. Mask off and paint the internal bezel to your preference, but at least leave the ribbed and textured parts silver to ensure you still get good beams out of your lights. (The corner turn lens is also in there, see below for the tinting process.) Buy some butyl rubber ribbon and use that to heat and reseal your lights. I'll post links to the process I followed if I can dig them up on my PC. it's a little labor intensive, but the unique look is worth it.
Taillights and front corner turn signals: follow the process for applying VHT Nightshade spray on tint. I think mine are 3 or 4 coats and then clear coat. The clear reverse lights were masked for the tint and unmasked for the clear. You can then sand and buff them to whatever level of gloss you want. Mine were left slightly matted.
Lift/shocks/wheels/tires: it's an RC 2" bb with load levelers I got from Kolak on Jeep forums. Wheels are Discount tire MB TKOs and tires are 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs.
It's got a pinchweld mod to clear the tires.
If you want deeper info say the word and I'll give you a deeper write up when I'm on a PC.
EDIT for links
I sanded until my thumb bled.
Then I hit it with high fill primer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKX16A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I sanded that down smooth through the thumb pain.
Then I hit it with the texture spray linked above.
Then I gave it a couple of coats of "Trim Black":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM019O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The texture spray really hides a lot of the imperfections
I feel your pain. Bought a P01 from Cajun, had them do all the work i wanted done, waited what seemed like forever for it. First day I had it, I was adjusting and getting frustrated with the new holster I bought for it and inadvertently put the wrong screws into the belt clip. Holster feels comfortable so I shove the pistol in and hear the most sickening scraping sound. Right down to bare metal. I tried this stuff:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE68ESI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm no painter, and i couldn’t make it look worth a damn, but the color is a pretty good match. Good luck.
No.
You need a Grunge Brush and some degreaser and chain wax. A rear stand will make the entire process much easier - I'd recommend getting a Pitbull since unlike calibrated tools like a torque wrench - it's a one time purchase.
An automated system is missing the point, when you're cleaning your chain is also the time to check the chain tension, sprocket wear, clean off the chain guard, see if your front sprocket cover is bogged up with debris, etc
This guy is a little eccentric, but his videos are really helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMhKGb_Duzs
In that video, the crank has much damage and the problem is diagnosable before he ever starts taking things apart.
On mine, I didn't find any damage on the crank. The key had just the slightest hint of wear on one side. The new key went into the crank very tightly.
http://i.imgur.com/3yW8C5v.jpg
There's my key. Not a very good pic, but you can a fuzzy line that runs down the length of it. If you look at that really close, you can see that the plating on the key is slightly worn through showing a darker colored metal underneath. I imagine that is pretty normal for a 100,000 mile engine of any kind.
Also in that pic is the oil seal remover tool that I used on the crank. I tried other more common tools and methods, but everything I tried seemed like it was really risky about damaging the crank right at the sealing surface. That seal puller was perfect. It still took some yanking to get the seal out, but it didn't damage the crank.
Also, be sure you know that the key is supposed to go in one certain way, and SNC crank failures might be caused by people putting the key in backwards which means the pulley cannot seat all the way down when you torque the bolt. The rounded corner (upper left in that pic) goes towards the center and rear of crank. If you feel inside the keyway in the crank, the rear corner of the slot is rounded - like the slot was cut with a disk shaped tool. So the corresponding key is rounded so that they will interface properly.
And be sure to torque the bolt properly. The Flyin' Miata tool is really helpful for holding the crank while you torque the bolt. Be sure your Torque Wrench will do the torque (80lb-ft if I recall). The cheap torque wrenches stop at like 75lb-ft. If you have the clicky kind, especially if you buy a clicky one to do this job, be sure to exercise it before you use for this job. You want to get this one right.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-tool-kit-short-nose.html
While you are in there, doing the cam seals is super easy. You don't need to use a seal puller. You can just remove the front cam bearing caps and slide the seal out. If you to that, be sure to get the right kind of sealant for those. They can leak. In this link someone mentions using Hylomar Flange Sealant to seal the cam bearing caps. This is not the same as silicon gasket sealer. Its much thinner. Basically at those caps, there is a small area where there is no gasket/cannot be a gasket, and the "sealing" is supposed to be accomplised by two perfectly flat machined surfaces mating and being torque together tightly... but in practice no surface is perfectly flat, so you need something very very thin to seal it. I think most parts store stock this.
If you still have the original radiator, you should plan to do that at the same time. We noticed ours was getting old and turning brown by we tried to do the job without replacing it, and as soon as we put it back together the radiator started leaking. It probably cracked in the process of removing it or installing it because it was so brittle from age.
We also flushed out coolant system while we had the radiator out. You have to remove the thermostat and put the housing back on to get a really good flush, but you can hook a garden hose up to the upper radiator hose and stick the lower hose into a 5 gallon bucket and flush the coolant passages out really well.
I needed one of these wrenches in a couple of spots (both of them involved in loosening the fan belts (one alternator bolt, one power steering pump bolt).
Repeat after me: WD40 is not a lubricant.
Use a chain cleaner and wax like Maxima's offerings. Use as instructed, do it every 500 miles on the dot.
If it's raining, after your ride hose off your bike with a garden hose to get abrasives off the paint and out of the chain, your hose water is much cleaner than rain water and road grime. This will make it less intensive or even unnecessary to clean your bike after a rainfall.
Also, detailers don't like doing bikes. The detailers I've hired that said they'll do bikes are generally rank amateurs and shouldn't be allowed near anyone's bike. Bikes have nooks and crannies unlike those on a car, they have a bunch of parts exposed, they take a lot of time. They take so much time that the detailer has trouble getting enough out of the job to justify.
Get yourself a garden sprayer, a bucket, a pack of microfiber cloths, and a big old jug of auto-soap with wax in it. Clean that noise yourself. If you have an air compressor dry the bike using that as it'll prevent scrating.
Then, get a jug of carnauba wax and clean the shiny bits of your bike. Don't bother applying to matte or powder-coated parts.
/r/AutoDetailing, specifically posts related to motorcycles.
Try a clay bar, if that doesn't work - run to WalMart and grab a Quixx kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Quixx-00070-US-Paint-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000UVUAFO/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0N1J002EKZPBM10FTTS0
try this. alot of guys on various car forums use it. you need to be very, very careful with the layers though. a very light dusting initial layer. then another very light layer. the first maybe 2 layers should still be spotty. you wont get full coverage until you get much more layers on. you dont want it to end up runny or pooled
Duplicolor Shadow Chrome
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468273398&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=vht+nightsahde
if you really wanna ;)
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8
IDK how well this will match but Dupli-Color has touch up paint pens meant to cover up scratches on automotive body panels, they can be found on Amazon.
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0100-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68CD0 (try and find the closest match, the one I linked may or may not be a match)
I love you so much for this idea right now. buying a carousel as we speak.
EDIT: For anyone that actually wants to buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I don't know what the heck I looked at. Anyways, is this the kit you're talking about: http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4
My 2013 Genesis Coupe has significant chips in the paint. I'd recommend getting a clear bra, or something to protect it.
I just bought the 3M Paint Defender System to hopefully stop further damage.
http://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O
$7 a can
I got the maxima chain cleaning kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-70-749203-3PK-Chain-Ultimate-Aerosol/dp/B00FFZU25S/ref=asc_df_B00FFZU25S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7069594860282740359&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013883&hvtargid=pla-406164525353&psc=1
Put the cleaner on, let it sit for a minute, scrub it lightly with 3 sided brush then rinse it off. Then put the chain wax on. Seems to work well, the wax solidifies a bit to keep it from being slung off the chain everywhere and the cleaner takes all the road grime off the chain.
My parking garage is extremely tight and today I lightly tapped a concrete wall with my front bumper. I thought I barely hit it, but I was horrified to discover it still gouged my paint.
Please tell me this is an easy fix. This is absolutely heartbreaking since I’ve only had the car for a month.
Here is the damage. Dodge Challenger if that helps. https://imgur.com/a/pOAYDfR
Do I just need something like this?
Mopar Lacquer Touch-up Paint (Prep+Paint+Clear) (F8 Green Metallic) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CH33FDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTXmDbR81KA0X
>Hey guys,
>
>I’ve been trying to find a good cover up paint for my MacBook Pro. It has the light aluminum silver color. I’ve tried several automotive touch up paints with no luck.
>
>The ones that I tried all ended up being a darker shade of silver. These are the ones I tried:
>
>Dupli-Color ACC0410 Metallic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66D1S?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
>
>Dupli-Color ANS0607 Brilliant... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE68CCQ?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
>
>SuperATV Touch Up Paint Pen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWG9XRG?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
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>As mentioned earlier, these ones ended up being too dark silver.
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>If anyone could provide me with some recommendations it would be appreciated. I would much rather go with a touch up pen type of paint.
My apologies. I figured that given I used automotive touch up paint it would be a good idea to ask people who've had experience with them.
there's black porcelain enamel, not sure about dark grey for an exact match but may need to look into touch up paints for cars, bigger variety there. I was actually looking for dark grey varieties for my car recently, may be a good way to touch up the scuffs here since the material seems similar but I'm not an expert. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8
i know little of acrilic but you could probably tint it with the paint people use to tint there tail lights. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413900749&sr=8-3&keywords=tail+light+tint
or even use a regular window tint witch is made in veriety of shades and even colors.
go to an auto parts store or to Amazon and get this kit--then follow the directions carefully and slowly--also--I recommend going to your local Mazda dealer and get some actual Mazda branded touch up paint-if you follow the directions and work slowly and carefully you will never know the chips were there.
https://www.amazon.com/Quixx-00070-US-Paint-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000UVUAFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496986350&sr=8-1&keywords=quixx+scratch+remover
Seems like it’s the same one.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nc61CbD35T88N
VHT Nite-shade
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6
It's a spray on tiny that is commonly used to tint tailights. 99% of the time it's done extremely poorly. It is possible he has a vinyl tint sheet over the tail lights but I'd bet its Nite-Shade.
here ya go
only one review, but i can also vouch that the color match is exact.
This is a common one used by Model 3 owners:
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8/
I don't think it's exact but fairly close.
Only actual paint code match I could find. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077T5RKC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcEBCbNKSEDW2
Huh, you're right. I wonder why? Someone above found a matching paint code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077T5RKC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcEBCbNKSEDW2
I wonder which one of these products (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3) would work well with the stock performance rims on the m3. I have some curb-rash going on that I would like to patch up like this.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505082037&sr=8-1&keywords=sem+trim+black
Yes just that small chip. Very small and I can only notice it from like a yard away. I figure I can fix it or blend it with something like this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DP66NML/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_aChVDbH218XWM
Thanks for the advice.
Edit: I might check color codes and get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LPMPD4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bFhVDb8MFP7SS
Hopefully someone here has experience or recommendations
I use 2 of these. They arent portable but I always paint at my desk
https://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481692190&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+organizer
It fits vallejo and citadel and im sure testors since thats who makes it.
What brands specifically? Maybe this one or this one?
I use Nite-Shades spray tint:
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1344965000&sr=8-3&keywords=nite+shades
I pulled the tail lights out, masked off everything but the reverse lights and applied a couple coats. did the same thing with the wing mirrors only I didn't need to mask them as they come out completely with nothing extra to worry about spraying.
There are touch up paint applicators you can use, which are actually more accurate to apply than the touch up paint
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70
i just ordered myself one of these
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375157727&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+station
it should be arriving tomorrow, but for $15 its a bargain i must say
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI
tons of touch up pens and touch up paint out there.
For most affordable, I've heard this is a very close color match to the wheels.
Assuming aero wheels, as mentioned above, dupli-color is a great match and will hide then rash nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
If you want to completely restore, new aero rims are $200 each. You can order through your service center.
I used SEM Trim Black with great results. I used an adhesion promoter first. 1+ year on the flare looks the same as the day I painted it.
The problem with bed liner is that it's textured - and you have to strip/sand it all of if you end up not liking the textured look. But it's great if you like the look!
Its spray tint : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPCRS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419189662&sr=8-1 you can find it at your local autozone.
vht nightshade spray could work. with or without a clear coat it can be sanded/polished with good results. but it's very permanent and could ruin your visor..
Cool story bro. I'm just gonna leave this here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFZU25S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013R620LU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
While I dont condone the look, this is a spray on lens tint that still allows light to pass through. It will reduce light output slightly, but not at a dangerous level.
Do a search. This is not difficult.
ttps://smile.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/product-reviews/B00HE66OK8/