Best masking tape according to redditors

http://www.amazon.com/FrogTape-1358463-Multi-Surface-Painting-0-94-Inch/dp/B002Z8HB2A

http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/th/detail-pages/sc_b002z8hb2a-04pbex2_lg.jpg

Stuff really works

Put some of this around your pots
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQ8KNYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6og7CbBEBJKPH

Amazon, most hardware or automotive stores would have some variant. It goes by a bunch of different names. This is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/

https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB

Must be this stuff.

Bam - nuclear duct tape.

"* Ideal for applications in the shipbuilding, nuclear power plant and stainless steel industries"

3m VHB 5952 is what you want

Unfortunately everything I find comes on rolls with far more than I know what to do with. On the plus side you shouldn't run out any time soon.

I use only aviation-grade speed tape for all my duct-taping needs.

I'm an automotive test engineer at a desert proving ground, where ambient temperatures can reach 115F and vehicle interior temperatures can climb well over 200F in localized areas, and I've always counted on 3M Nuclear Grade Duct Tape. It's certainly not a laboratory-grade solution, and I'm sure it doesn't offer the best precision, but it gets the job done in the ranges I need it for, and I can leave it on for several months and still remove it cleanly. I just take a 2x2 inch square of tape, slap it behind the thermocouple, and plug it in. Sticks to glass no problem, and has no trouble holding the weight of the thermocouple wire if I need it to.

Search for "3M VHB Black". You can get a roll and cut it to size.

Example https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/

This is more than you'd need, but its general purpose adhesive that will come in handy for other purposes. This is the same adhesive used on gopros mounts.

If you don't wanna spend so much, get this and trim it a bit. https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Pads-Gopro-Helmet-Mount/dp/B00EFTP2YQ/

This stuff, aka painter's tape, for those that don't wanna click.

Edit to add - vinegar also helps remove rust, and if you're afraid steel wool will be too abrasive, use aluminum foil as your scrubber. Foil and vinegar is a long-standing rust removal tool, but use only tiny amounts of vinegar, you don't want it to drip down along the side of the pole inside the pickup.

Add'l edit to add - anything that removes the rust is going to make it go somewhere - I read that having a vacuum running while you do it is a good precaution to keep the tiny rusty bits being removed from getting everywhere.

3M VHB tape. This stuff will stick to anything and will go down to sub zero temps. Make sure everything is dry when applying and prep all the surfaces that the VHB tape sticks to with 3M 94 tape primer.

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549918879&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+VHB+tape

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-02oz-Vinyl/dp/B005LDKTV6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916087&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3M+94+primer&psc=1

​

It's very simple. Get something like this and then this for the smaller stripe.
You could do it without a clear coat but the clear coat will make it more resistant to pealing/chipping/more permanent. If you do decide to do a clear coat it's not coming off unless you sand the clear coat and your paint off.
Most helmets/bikes come like this from the factory with their vinyl stickers etc placed on and then just clear coated over.

> shower head extenders

YES. Here ya go. Get some teflon tape and wrap the threads when you install it. Nobody likes a leaky shower.

Sorry Reddit didn't show me any notifications, just came across this on my feed (mobile... ffs)
As the other reply says though, Amazon for the win! Got it on Amazon Canada, Just looked for the widest I could find

Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape, Multi-Surface, 2.83-Inch by 60-Yard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-.fWAbJ8PXT9M

This is the stuff I use:

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU?

Don't forget some nuclear-grade duct tape to patch any holes.

This stuff is the best for sharp crisp lines, i use it for automotive graphics as well as my models.

I would highly recommend this stuff for your ideas. There is no actual glue so no yucky residue and no pulling out hair.

Definitely tape the fretboard off with painter's tape! It's specifically designed to seal/stick well and release cleanly/easily. Aside from using it to tape off guitar necks, as a former roller derby ref we used it to tape down tracks on top of expensive roller skating rinks floors. Always came up easily!

There are lots of different strength but any hardware store should have what you need

Ask for 3M VHB double-sided tape # 4905 or 4910 or Black 5952.

You can also get them online such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Double-sided-Conformable-Acrylic-Replacement/dp/B01863G5Q0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1479457639&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=3M+VHB+tape+squares&psc=1

here ya go

What kind of car is it? I need a better idea about what you're talking about. To avoid scratching the paint get this stuff.
Knifeless Finish Line Vinyl Wrap Cutting Tape 10 Meter (32 Ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XULNZI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m7IJybH7CGSZD

you can use helicopter tape/racers tape to prevent that.

I used this to mount my CF spoiler on my vehicle. Outdoors in hot/cold weather, 120+MPH speeds. This shit sticks.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-RP25-VHB-Tape/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469217575&sr=8-2&keywords=vhb+tape

Knifeless Finish Line Vinyl Wrap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XULNZI0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
VViViD Gloss Black Vinyl Wrap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD7RDFY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

FrogTape works wonders.

Put some FlexSeal on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Tape-Rubberized-Waterproof-inches/dp/B01N5Q3JBF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510944621&sr=8-1&keywords=flex+seal+patch

>duct-tape or similar items at the hardware store.

No! It'll DESTROY the surface. Use this stuff

Why not invest in some quality duct tape?

Ah, it looks like that case came with Canadian purchases only. Best Buy's CA website won't ship to me, and and my local site doesn't carry the case.

At any rate, you can purchase the 3M adhesive strips separately.

http://i.imgur.com/eYWjcZE.jpg

3M RP25/GRY055 Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2" x 15 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZmnDb1NGC7ZH
I bought this. It worked real good.

Also, to add to what jacobcanflyy says, if you don't want to go for bondage tape, a good alternative is the PTFE, which is teflon tape, or plumbers tape. you can get it for insanely cheap at any hardware store.

pic reference. Don't get it from amazon though, they stiff you on the shipping.

Try this 3M double-sided tape[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=psdc_228921_t2_B004BN81LC] instead of the regular electric tape. Its more flexible and strong. Just wrap up the whole cable with this and you'd be happy for couple of years.

You can get clear 'helicopter' tape from Amazon for a reasonable price to replace that, and maybe add some to the underside of your downtube, too, if it doesn't already have it.
As an example (I've never used this - I'm not specifically recommending this brand):
https://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racers-Tape-HT2128-Transparent/dp/B000TPC7HU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

Found it! I think I may buy a roll myself! You can find thicker, just search for UHMW Tape

Amazon

It appears to be painter's tape which doesn't leave a residue.

Look for 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CgH3CbR1PN0F6

Its exactly what you want.

FYI helicopter tape is pretty useful for covering up areas where paint can chip from rocks, debris, and chain-slap. It’s the same stuff used to protect phone screens from wear and tear, and apparently helicopter blades. This roll is way cheaper than the made-for stuff.

This is the same tape but you get twice as much material for $2 more

Actually all I ever used is this:

3M ScotchBlue 2090-2A Ruban Adhésif de Masquage Peinture 48mm x 55 m https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00004Z4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YA8YDbX87P7MH

It’s cheaper, durable, you can do whatever masking with it and cut it to shapes, never had any issue whatsoever with deteriorating paint underneath.

https://i.imgur.com/CT68Clh.jpg

Also i don’t have to bother maintaining stock of vmultiple rolls of varying width. Give it a try you won’t be disappointed

http://imgur.com/a/EMEaU

This is a christmas light I printed as a gift for my Grandma on a Rostock V2 Max.
I used cheap white PLA from bgastore on ebay (link later).
I designed the file in Autodesk Inventor 2017 Student Version and in Meshmixer. I also used Meshmixer to create the custom supports for the model. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914863

The model was printed on Blue Tape with no glue or bed heat.
Support removal took around 3 hours, I started with the middle, then went around the text and then finished up at the top of the model. I used needle nose pliers and wire cutters I would not recommend printing this unless you have both.

Afterwards I used acrylic paint to paint over the text. The surface was rough if you’re planning on painting this model I would recommend sanding it first.

The print can be kept as a christmas tree ornament or as a light. It’s possible cut a hole in it to fit a large lightbulb in or order a small one off of amazon. Make sure the bulb doesn’t touch the sides of the print as it can melt the plastic.

Cura Settings:
Layer Height: .3mm
Line Width: .5mm
Wall Line Width: 1mm
Top/Bottom Thickness: 2mm
Infil: solid
Print temp : 205
Build Plate: 0
Retraction speed: 50mm/s
Extra Prime amount: .1mm
Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 6.5mm
Speed: 30mm/s
Wall Speed: 15mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 8mm/s
Combing mode: all
Z hop when travelling: 2mm
Cooling: fan 100%
No support, the meshmixer supports are enough
Brim: 1mm

Link to plastic:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/391087201228?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D145795696709_324272%2526itemid%253D391087201228%2526targetid%253D265536273303%2526rpc%253D0.08%2526rpc_upld_id%253D91336%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F391087201228%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9005779%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D672333784%2526adgroupid%253D29658622530%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-265536273303%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQiA08rBBRDUn4qproqwzYMBEiQAqpzns6jXyE4PiaoJpcMmUbU6nRO9XAd2FxXUSDttHbQfGFAaAjGt8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1127005495389&ul_noapp=true
Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB

https://www.amazon.com/3M-ScotchBlue-Painters-Tape-Multi-Surfaces/dp/B00004Z4BB?th=1

This stuff is an absolute godsend for dorm walls

Damn, I really want some of that Nuclear Duct Tape! Too bad it's $19 a roll.

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

i bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01863G5Q0

It's this stuff, sticks to itself but not to hair or skin.

Just finished taping up my new bike about 2 hours ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used that stuff. Never really bothered before other than the chain stay to protect it from chain slap but new bike is carbon and pricey. It went on easy using the soapy water method. Only real issue I have is it is glossy and the frame is matte so it is fairly obvious. I also used some 3m 2228 mastic tape in areas it would be a pita to use the other stuff and more likely to take heavy hits.

Or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU if you don't like black ;-)

I'd also recommend taping the entire bike with it anyway because paint chips even more quickly when you bikepack haha. (Or at least, the down tube and the chainstays in addition to where the bags touch the frame)

You're also going to need this.

It's on Amazon for 11 bucks. It's 2.83" x 60 yards.
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-2-83-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484372268&sr=8-1&keywords=wide+painters+tape

3M VHB tape is the best
VHB stands for Very High Bond, it sticks amazingly well to smooth surfaces like a kwad frame but when you want to remove it you can peel it off pretty easily. It isnt going anywhere when you fly. It is also a little foamy so it provides a little cushion bten the carbon fiber and electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_hQ4jDbV2SB64H

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Vinyl-Tape-471-PN6404/dp/B005EB72WY

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Masking-240877-Black-Tape-94-Inch/dp/B00TOW5Y88/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4s7qBRCzARIsAImcAxYgJ37nkgSYjEpmR1L7d1B5foJKJEioumRHO7nCkAm8f6LrLEx96ZkaAuIzEALw_wcB&hvadid=177788290790&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028776&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3721112938753868212&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-4255186010&hydadcr=2055_9901458&keywords=black+painters+tape&qid=1565800966&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Did you save it, or is it gone? It can be reattached if not lost or damaged. Get some of this stuff to replace the original tape.

While this can't fix the existing scratches, if you are serious about protecting your frame then consider applying some helicopter/racer tape to the most vulnerable areas.

It's basically a thick version of protective films they use on electronic screens. UV stable and can take a beating. Bonus is that it peels off without hassle or marks. A lot of the guys in my area use it to protect their carbon frames. Just clean the application area well with alcohol before putting the tape on.

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU

I guess it's called painter's tape. I used it this winter to tape plastic over my kitchen windows to keep the heat in. Still holding!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z8HB2A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7JEwtb11JA761

I just got a new bike and felt the same way for a while. After some research I found this: ISC Racers Tape/Helicopter Tape. A number of people online seem to like it.

After getting used to the fact that I will probably bang up my bike a good bit more and I might as well get over it, I decided to buy a little anyway. I'm going to put it on a few spots I worry about i.e. to prevent chainslap and where the bike touches my bike rack. Might as well make a small effort to help the resale value if I ever want to sell it.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

You could use double sided tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1517867355&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+vhb

The con is that you might not be able to remove it so easily. This stuff is pretty extreme.

I use double-sided tape, like [this one](3M Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2 in. x 15 ft. (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0zBEAbQDWXD9D). I usually put 4 pieces on, one over each screw that secured around the processor. Holds really well. This is what most of the modders I follow use.

>... I just reenter it and it stays.

Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

FTFY:

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 4.6 meters. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

_____

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They're already just outside the picture.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Masking-240877-Black-Tape-94-Inch/dp/B00TOW5Y88 ;)

I prefer Nuclear Duct Tape.

Glow in the dark tape. Cut a small sliver and use it instead of the film ticker. Maybe that might help:

https://www.amazon.com/Marsway-Luminous-Removable-Waterproof-Photoluminescent/dp/B01IVJW950/

I found this stuff which is a mere $48/roll.

It may be that, due to being a bulk product that isn't tied to a specific aircraft, the markup is a mere 15-fold instead of 100-fold.

'Course, this is also 2", not 4".

10 rolls of this might reduce the noise to an acceptable level.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Performance-Nuclear-48-Millimeter-54-8-Meter/dp/B000NG3ZKI

What I did for a cheap screen was to buy "Carl's blackout cloth" and tack it directly onto the wall with finishing nails. Then I bought 4" wide felt tape and taped off the edges. Works perfectly. I'll link the things I bought, but with your size screen you might be able to just go down to a fabric store and buy "blackout cloth" which would be even cheaper. (I had to get carls because my local fabric store didn't sell large enough cloth, but i'm out at 125" so you should have better luck.)

https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Screen-Material/dp/B00K7ILLC6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCTQIR1/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a little pricey, but I've heard good things about helicopter tape:
LINK

ScotchBlue Original Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape, .70 inch x 60 yard, 2090, 1 Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_11y6CbB0P2K7S

I got this - is good?

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

I had a problem with the original PS tape as well, it stuck for about 20 mins before it came off. I work in an automotive test lab and we use 3M’s VHB double sided tape for sticking instrumentation and other stuff inside and out side of cars. It sticks even inside of hot cars and outside in cold weather. This is what I use on my pop socket and leather case. Just use an alcohol wipe to clean the surfaces.

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mI8CZO4gVAsfR

That stuff works wonders. I used 4 strips and it is up there haha.

I put glow in the dark tape on mine :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVJW950/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gazpybM6TM35J

I'm using this tape to cover the back for now, and it is a lot grippier than the bare aluminum, the back glass, or even my plastic screen protector. If they use a similar material it should have some grip. "Self-Healing, flexible, tough, military-grade thermoplastic urethane, designed to absorb impact" sounds grippy. Good point about peeling. Maybe clear adhesive film for the back plus a bumper case would be a good combo.

I have Thule Atmos X3 case on my old phone, and it's awesome. It's thin and unobtrusive (adds maybe 2-3mm thickness), but it protected that phone every time I dropped it. It's made of high quality co-molded materials with a subtle design and variety of textures. Too bad they seem to have given up on Android phones.

Sweet. I was looking at this, but yours has better reviews. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

> UHMW tape

So this stuff?

Here it is on Amazon: (link)

The folks at NASA Dryden call it Mach3 Tape because it remains intact on their SR71 research aircraft at Mach 3.2.

Or black masking tape...

http://www.amazon.com/Ampro-A1441-PTFE-2-Inch-260-Inch/dp/B003YL4CJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341637802&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe+tape

Bondage tape and silk rope

Tape that small.

I use ISC Racers Tape.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000TPC7HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595SCbRDHK3ZP

Not just water, but slightly soapy water. It breaks the surface tension on the water allowing it to completely cover the adhesive so you can easily position it on the frame. Lots of soapy water. You can't use too much. Be careful not to get water on the backing paper before peeling off the tape. It has a tendency to pull apart and stick to the tape if you get it wet. If your hands are wet with soapy water you can handle the adhesive side without leaving fingerprints. I use a dish towel to squeegee and dry around the edges. It won't start to stick well until it squeegees out and dries. If it slips when your squeegeeing splash more soapy water on it and have another go at it.

I just wrapped a new steel hardtail in 1", 2", and 4" tape because it's gonna take a thrashing.

It is Nuclear Grade duct tape

If you use 3M's VHB tape, it has an rating for 90° C during use. It's the same tape used for putting up some road signs. It's also the same adhesive use on the Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener (Heavy Duty Velcro) to attach electronic toll collection tags to car windshields.

It's actually quite easy to use once you figure out how to properly use it. After screwing up the first few times using the exacto knife to trim the excess off, I did some research and tried some out.

Watch a few YouTube tutorials on how to use it and see if it's something you'd be interested in. It's takes a little bit of practice to get the right amount of tape for each side and guiding it so it doesn't mess up your line of excess that you're trimming off the vinyl.

Knifeless Tape

From the reviews, it looks like it doesn't work a damn for lots of people, though some report good success. I'm guessing that they just import whatever from wherever, stick their name on it, and sell it in a colorful blister pack. (What QC?)

I guess if it were me and I had a slug problem in my area (I'm lucky), I'd be looking at a more-industrious source. This stuff looks like a winner. I say this not because I've used it, but because it says "safe for soldering," claims to have conductive adhesive, and is therefore likely to be actually-bare copper for all the electronic/industrial uses that require such a thing.

And for a sure thing, there's always McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#copper-foil-tape/=17zrfgi These guys don't fuck around when it comes to material descriptions.

Good luck!

Try the name brand. It worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe just a brand thing. I'm using the Scotch Blue painters tape: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001EJMS4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if Id recommend it though. In my limited experience Its hard to get fine details in the first layer like holes or text to stick unless you rubbing alcohol the tape first, but when you do large surfaces stick too well and you'll have a hell of a time to get them off. I started using this glue stuff that came as a sample pack in a couple of my 3dprintingcanada.com orders but decided it wasn't worth the mess and hassle. Others have had success with hairspray so I'd give that a shot first.

I miss the stock flexible magnetic build tac that comes with the Ender 3 pro, so I ordered a replacement that I'm going to stick on top of the glass. My bed was so warped from factory that I could almost stick a dime in the middle under a straight edge. Hopefully with a magnetic build tac on top of the glass Ill have the best of both worlds. My temps will suffer and it will be a little heavy but I'm willing to experiment.

This is the exact thing I got.

Kind of pricey but it seems like the roll will last for every bike I ever own.

Mine also has that and its bothered me for the longest time. Most DLP projectors come with it. im not sure the science behind it.

I also have an edgeless screen so its more noticeable although my light frame is ALOT thicker than that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCTQIR1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

\^has done wonders and gotten rid of it completely (Not as nice as an edgeless screen)

*comes in a smaller width too

so it depends how much out bothers you.

Well, I ordered 3 small traschcans, a shower curtain, two types of plungers, a toilet brush, and some plumber's tape so I can install my showerhead

Looks like it works perfectly!

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Tape-Rubberized-Waterproof-inches/product-reviews/B01N5Q3JBF

I use this tape which is just 2 inch wide blue masking tape. I got it at Target but they sell it a lot of places. I don't know if there's a better kind, that's just what I had on hand... how wide is the stuff you use?

http://www.amazon.com/3M-8979N-Performance-Nuclear-Slate/dp/B000NG3ZKI

Is it reasonable to put this adhesive tape on J-Hooks? I haven't bought it yet. http://smile.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Polyethylene-Rubber-Adhesive/dp/B000REGUE4/

You can find the black Mazda badges here and here.