Best household batteries according to redditors

Thanks! Yup Mikey was always my fav. Here is the battery I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This appears to be identical to many products on alibaba, including this one: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Usb-Lithium-Polymer-Batteries-Rechargeable-Micro_62068065749.html

In fact, you can buy these on Amazon, for less money, with free next-day shipping: https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M

This kind of shit should be banned. Even in the most generous interpretation possible, this is a group buy not a kickstarter.

I don't get it. Has enough money to buy $600-$3000 Surface. Doesn't have enough money to buy $2 battery for pen.

Edit: batteries as low as $.64 each on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1469740446&sr=8-3&keywords=aaaa+battery

This is a great mouse and everything, but 90%+ gamers are probably going to get a lot more value out of a Logitech G305 (not currently on sale) with a Lithium AAA and half of a AAA to AA adapter to keep it snug, it's light with a great modern sensor, the wired Pros body form, and great battery life (even with that mentioned AAA battery).

I realize a lot of people know about this, but I figure it's worth mentioning all the same. If money is no issue for you though, by all means, you'll be happy with the Pro wireless too. But this isn't a great sale on it to begin with.

This ones right. How much would a UPS battery cost? 180 2032 batteries would be about $108. Itd be even less if you go generic, about $40. So on a scale of 1-10, how bad an idea would it be to make a UPS battery with 2032s?

EDIT: found a 12v 45ah battery for $75. So would generic button cells be an acceptable replacement for a real UPS battery?
EDIT 2: apparently I can't math circuits right

You can buy them at most stores that sell batteries. Amazon has them too if that helps.

I should also mention, if you are looking for rechargeables instead, NiMh batteries are much less likely to leak than alkalines. I have had great luck with eneloop brand NiMh rechargeables

Sanyo Eneloops are a much better bargain. Amazon

They're fucked, must've used the wrong charger for them, or the charger malfunctioned. They won't explode, but I doubt they will be useful for more than like 2 miles.

Good news: It's not too terribly expensive to replace them: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-12V-20AH-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B00KC39BE6

Though I'd 100% upgrade to LiFePo4 batteries instead, a drop in upgrade no modifications needed: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

LiFePo is superior Wh/kg and will last you pretty much forever.

Minutes? What kind of batteries are you using?

I've used these with great results-

1.8 mAh TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Battery Charger with 4 Counts Lithium 2775 mWh AA Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQ7QV7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1OgnDbJXY7QAJ

And these as well.

1.5mAh USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GVgnDb1C8DPXZ

Not the guy you're asking but here are my thoughts. There is pretty much no penlight on the market that will do what he wants, and it will be laughably ineffective regardless. If he needs something tiny, get him a Streamlight Stylus USB. That's gonna be about the brightest thing you can get with any ""tactical"" potency.

If you can talk him into a 14500 or 18650 light then he's more likely to get the power he wants. If he can handle having a solid chunk of aluminum on him, the Streamlight ProTac 2L-X and Wowtac A1S BSS v3 are going to be my choices for an inexpensive strobe machine. The Olight M1X Striker is another choice in this general form factor.

Streamlight also makes the ProTac 1L-AA which is a little smaller, but it only puts out 350 lumens.

All the lights I have posited outside the Stylus USB have easy access to the strobe mode, typically a double or triple tap on the tail switch. This is important to my mind because many lights require the light to be on and a button to be held for one second - practically useless and too long to get to if really needed.

I really hope that he does a big long think about what he wants out of this flashlight, and I hope he tries to "stun" himself with his flashlight to see what its like to be on the receiving end. The reaction he has, being prepared for it, is the best he can hope for in any situation in which he uses the strobe against someone. Its not like in the TacLight commercials.

I wrote a couple more of my thoughts on using a flashlight for self defense a little while ago if you find it handy. I personally like having the strobe and I would use it in an emergency situation, but its very important to note its limitations.

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

• Radio - $128.86
  
  
• 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77
  
  -or-
  
  
• 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00
  
  
• Battery charger - $21.85
  
  
• You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99
  
  
• You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49
  
  side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63
  
  additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.
  
  Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.
  
  Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
  

Very nice! If you want to make them truly portable add a shelf and grab two of these: EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WcyACbMX4FW7Y

You'll need a charger too for the batteries but should run them for hours.

Switch to Sanyo Eneloops. They come pre-charged and don't lose their charge. I made the jump for all my Speedlites and now use them in everything; couldn't be happier. You obviously don't have to buy all of the below but I was stocking up and bought multiple packs and chargers.

• La Crosse Technology BC-9009 AlphaPower Battery Charger
  
• Sanyo Eneloop 8 Pack AA NiMH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries
  
• Sanyo Eneloop Ni-MH Charger and 8 Rechargeable AA and 4 Rechargeable AAA Batteries
  
  Edit: Bah, this should have been a reply to ustanik's "problem is your batteries" reply...

With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/hour@12v, meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).

Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.

The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).

That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.

I think you need to go back and consider how long you are wanting to stay in place should you need to generate your own power and triage your power consumption needs in order to carefully map out a solar/battery system. For instance, I have a 3200 watt inverter generator. I plan on keeping enough fuel to run it for a week at most should I need to provide my own power. Beyond that I've planned to leave the area for other areas where there are public services. If shit really hits the fan and there is no where for me to go, then I still see little point in stockpiling resources beyond a few days since I won't be able to defend it from my surrounding neighbors. Your neighbors aren't going to lay down and die while you ride out the apocalypse in relative comfort. A few days of in place resources and then I'm going to be mobile and use some of the survival skills I've developed over the years to try and make it.

You really haven't given any well defined power needs, so we'll just go from what you've said and make certain assumption in this exercise that illustrates how expensive power storage can get.

Each device you want to power will document its wattage ratings. Add them up. Watts = Volts Amps. Once you know how many watts you need to run everything, now you can start figuring out how large of a solar panel array you need as well as the size of the battery array you'll need to be able to power everything at night.

I may be wrong going forward, but this is how I understand it:

Here's a wattage chart.. You'll need to refer to the equipment you want to power to find their specifics, but this will put you in the ball park.

You'll notice "running" wattage and "surge" wattage. You need to be able to accommodate the surge wattage.

Just from what you mentioned, fridge, heater, microwave, you're going to need 5,000 watts to run all three at the same time. 5,000W = 120V 42A. But that's AC power. You need to work with DC power for the solar panels and batteries. Those are going to run at 12 volts. So now you need 417 amps to get 5000 watts from 12 volts.

Here's a 100 amp hour 12v deep cycle lead acid battery for $170. I'm not endorsing it, just using it as an example. u/noone512 noted a Walmart brand 100ah 12v deep cycle for $85ish. I'm going off the price of the battery I can find a link for.

You're going to need 5 of these batteries wired in parallel to get 417 amps. That's $850. It'll run all 3 appliances for 1 hour. If you want to run your appliances for the 12ish hours a day the solar panels aren't working well enough then you'll need 51 batteries wired in parallel. That's $8,670.

But wait! There's more! You can't completely drain your battery array because it'll shorten the life of it. I believe the rule of thumb is drain your batteries no more than 50%. Now you need twice the amperage. You now need 102 batteries at a cost of $17,340.

That's just the batteries which does not include taxes, shipping, electrical wiring, inverters, other components, safety devices, the solar panels, storage building, professional installation, etc.

Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.

Basic list of parts you need:

• Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8E0WAG
  
• Battery box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WCUIC4 (optional but nice to have)
  
• eyelet terminal cigarette adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y (optional for ResMed)
  
• battery charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWVEKS or similar
  
  Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
  
  
• ResMed DC adapter https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed-dc-converter-airsense-aircurve-10-machines
  
• Philips DC adapter https://www.cpap.com/productpage/pr-dreamstation-shielded-dc-cord
  
  Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.

Lets do a quick run through so you can compare:

The Yeti 1250 is 12v 100ah and 1200 watts for $1250. It has 3 USB and 3 standard plugs + other ins and outs in addition to a solar charger.

A 12v 100ah deep cycle battery off amazon is $159. You would need a charger unit ($50 on amazon) in addition to some basic electrical wiring ($20-50). Then you would need an inverter (this one is $65 w/ three plug ins and two usb inputs) for 1000 watts. Last you would need to invest in a solar charger unit (often comes with solar panel kits and those can run around $30. So probably close to $350-400

So then however you want to store these (plywood box construction and a little DIY elbow grease) you can build essentially the same unit for about 1/4 the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/ERAYAK-Inverter-Alligator-Refrigerator-Cooler-8099U/dp/B019PXILXA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364654&sr=8-17&keywords=12v+inverter

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364350&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+100+ah+deep+cycle+battery

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Regulator-Intelligent-Display-12V-24V/dp/B018ICLC3K/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1482364823&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+charge+controller

Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99

Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62

Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99

DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89

ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24

BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46

BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99

UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90

I have kinda worked with these LED strips before, it's very reasonably priced. The expensive part is portable power of 12v and 1 amp and 3+ Amp hours.

http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-General-Purpose-Terminals/dp/B000ROFZFE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414877921&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414877695&sr=8-1&keywords=led+waterproof+strip

• If you just play offline, you don't need an Xbox Live Gold subscription. It's not expensive though, I usually snatch a year-subscription for 40 EUR from ebay even though I don't play online games. You also get ~4 (older) games per month to add them to your library. It also gives you access to regular sales in the Microsoft Digital Store.
  
  
• You could consider Xbox Game Pass though, you can get it for ~60 EUR per year in sales (ebay, Amazon) and it gives you access to ~250 games. EA Access is something similar, ~70 EA games for 25 Eur per year.
  
  some infos that could be useful:
  
  
• this list shows which Xbox OG and Xbox 360 games are working on a Xbox One as well : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_backward_compatible_games_for_Xbox_One
  
  
• these games are included in EA Access (costs 25 EUR a year) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EA_Access
  
  
• All the games currently in Xbox Game Pass : https://www.windowscentral.com/xbox-game-pass-list
  
  
• Gamepass is 1 Dollar/Euro for three months for new customers currently if activated until 23rd of May. Make sure to turn off the 'automatic renewal' after subscribing for the three months offer (see next point for easiest way to handle this).
  
  
• the best way to manage your Xbox/Microsoft Account including subscriptions is with a web browser : https://account.microsoft.com/account/manage-my-account
  
  
• List of games that can be played with Mouse/Keyboard on an Xbox One (it's a newer feature, not many games support it yet) : https://www.windowscentral.com/list-xbox-one-mouse-and-keyboard-games
  
  
• List of Play Anywhere games (if bought on Xbox or in the Windows Microsoft Store, one game license makes you play the game on both platforms : https://www.windowscentral.com/play-anywhere-list (Your Windows 10 account must be the same as you Xbox account for that to work).
  
  
• ebay and Amazon is the usual place to snatch up used Discs of Xbox 360 and Xbox One games. Microsoft also has sales several times a year for their digital store(like Steam sales). You can also sometimes buy Xbox digital keys for some games for cheap at ebay. i.e. everybody owns Assassins Creed Unity, as the digital key costs only 2 Euro on ebay ;)
  
  
• to buy cheap yearly (or for 3 months or six months) subscriptions to Game Pass, EA Access and Live Gold, check ebay and the usual Amazon Sales.
  
  
• The controller uses regular AA batteries. Buy something like this, it will save you money in the long term : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339NINQ
  
  
• There is an Xbox App for Windows 10 which is useful, also there is an Xbox App for Android and iOS.
  
  
• subscribe to r/xboxone/ to stay informed about anything regarding Xbox One. Quite a lot of people with a 'normal' Xbox One in that sub, not everybody has a One S or One X ;)

this is a very good deal, these are the original stock batts for the MFLB.

the best amazon can do:

• eneloop charger + 4 AAs @2000 mAh : $18.35
  
  
• eneloop charger + 4 AA + 4 AAA @ 2000mAh : $49.99

These ones are working great for me

I've used one so far and so has my boyfriend, they're lasting longer than the ones that the Plus came with.

My laptop needs at least an 180 watt inverter so that would be pretty useless to me. You can spend the same amount to get a 200 watt inverter along with a much more robust 35AH battery. Or spend a little more and get a 800-1000 watt inverter that can power your laptop plus a few other things and you will have a far more versatile setup. Save your other batteries for your mower, weed eaters, leaf blowers, etc.

I know your question was about water, but I'd like to rebut that article in general. I'll make sure to focus on water for you though. (TL;DR: I see The_Prepared is already here, and the article you already found is my suggestion.)

Here, I shall make some useful alternate suggestions:

Article Title: Well, I see the lies have already begun. Hey, I know of an article with almost the same name that's actually useful!

• Pedal power fail socket: Dumb. For that price, buy a solar panel, a decent charge controller, and a battery. Find a nerd if you aren't one, hook them up (safely, standard internet advice disclaimer here), and you get power without needing to pedal, and also storage. If you want to charge your phone, use a 12v adapter, and if you need 120v power for something, you can get an inverter. It's pretty easy to hook it all up, there are a lot of resources, search for "DIY solar generator". Here's one I made for a good friend. This will be about a hundred times as useful to you, at only a slightly higher price.
  
  
• Crappy GMRS radios: You can tell this article is BS because they actually think the "23 mile range" claim has some kind of validity. Emergency comms for preppers generally means a Ham radio license, those walkie talkies are only marginally better than toys. All the same, they're cheap, and can't hurt. I have a pair.
  
  
• Cell phone: It amuses me that the article states "we have a strong suspicion", thus confirming they did no actual journalism or research . In the event of a disaster, 2G will be exactly as non existent as it is now. They also chose the Nokia because of a meme! What's their next memetic indestructible suggestion? A Wiimote? Gamecube? At least you could bludgeon an intruder to death with a Gamecube. My suggestion: Use your regular phone, because it works with the existing infrastructure. Text messages tend to work better in disasters, because high call volume stresses the network, and texts are a tiny amount of data. Also, stay off the phone unless you really need to use it, because someone else might be in a life threatening situation and need to call for help.
  
  
• Ultimate survival kit: I disagree with premade survival kits because they use low quality items, most of them won't actually be useful, and if you build your own, you have more familiarity with the equipment and usage. If you want a pre made kit, look at the contents, buy it in pieces, and test every piece before you put it in your kit. At least then you'll know how it all works, and be familiar with exactly whats in there.
  
  
• Glowy keychain thing: I mean, i like glowy things, but the only real use for this is if you want to take a photo and post it on /r/EDC and then get flak from them because it's not even tritium, which incidentally doesn't need charging and would work far better for the purpose the article suggests anyway.
  
  
• Waterbricks: No argument here, but The Prepared has a really awesome article about this and I'm not going to type words that they have already covered in great detail. (I see they've already found this thread, anyway.)
  
  
• Condoms: Pretty fair point there. They expire, so rotate them like any other perishable prep item. I'd say probably stock conventional ones because no one wants a hurricane baby, and some unlubricated ones for assorted other purposes, but don't plan on using them for stuff. If you need something waterproof, do not think "I'll just put a condom on it when I need to!". If you can think of it in advance, figure out a proper solution, and leave the condoms for in a pinch fixes you didn't anticipate.
  
  
• Hand crank radio: Sure I guess? I'd rather have a radio that uses rechargeable batteries, and then use the solar rig from my first bullet point to charge the batteries. Anything with a hand crank will put out a really tiny amount of power and requires you to effort. Once you stop cranking, you're running off of the way-too-tiny battery in the unit, whereas solar is a huge amount of power that requires no effort, which you can then use to charge lots of batteries and then just swap them. Or run the radio off of a 12v adapter directly. For the radio itself, You want AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio at a minimum, and an argument could be made for shortwave, because it can cover huge distances (I'm in central Alberta, Canada, and can easily pick up Radio Havana Cuba on shortwave). Again, a Ham license and some equipment of that sort would also be useful if you want to get into that.
  
  
• MRE's: Sure, though ask a soldier friend what they think of them, and what they do to your guts. I'm personally going to stick with Mountain House or similar. Also, there's an article from The Prepared on this topic, too. (Hey mods, just so you know I'm not paid or coerced in any way to suggest this site. I gain nothing from them, it's just the best information I've found, and it's convenient to link them instead of type a whole lot.)
  
  
• As seen on TV "Tactical" Flashlight: No! Ask nicely in /r/flashlight, or pick something that meets your needs from Here. Thrunite tends to be inexpensive, high quality, nice features, and nice light, if you're looking for a brand suggestion. Fenix and Nitecore are also solid choices.
  
  
• 1911: Limiting this one because too much politics and heated debate. I love 1911s, but .45 is a bit big for an infrequent shooter, but a 9mm clone like an STI Spartan, or perhaps a Jericho (Baby Eagle) in 9mm, or a CZ, would work nicely.
  
  
• Casper Mattress: Wait, that's an ad, never mind. I couldn't really tell the difference.

Amazon sells an 8-pack of AAAAs for $4.49. My area has same-day delivery with Prime, so it's a no-brainer to buy from them. I tossed two of them into my bag for my SP4 along with extra pens.

I have it in my hands. I built my own iontophoresis machine and I started using it yesterday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOQfjZ9-Akw

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000ROFZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JPBZINO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0029DHT5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have ADHD and I'm looking into cdb pills as well. I'll update if anything happens!

What about something like this?

Any 12 volt battery will work.

It's definitely your batteries. You can buy 2 new ones for $10+shipping from MFLB, but any rechargeable over 2200-2400 mAh will work. I bought my box before they came out with the Glyph batteries, the ones that came with mine lasted about a year and a half of daily use before I broke down and bought some 2200 mAh Duracells from Wal-Mart. They lasted maybe 6-8 months each but were shitty quality, I just wanted to vape again. I bought 2 glyphs and they were better than the original ones had ever been, I lost one but the other is still going strong after almost a year in rotation with the Duracells.

I've never used them, but these were the standard recommendation before the glyphs came out. I think they're comparable and cheaper. But now I have a power adapter which I got heavily marked down (less than $50) during Black Friday sales and it has absolutely been worth it, to the point where I bring it with me when I go out and find a discreet outlet rather than relying on batteries. I think it's overpriced at full retail but I understand why they charge so much, just glad I got one before they start cracking down on resellers. I've spent maybe $160 all told on my box, PA, and the replacement batteries, and the MFLB has still saved me money (I think) on weed.

You might try a Play & Charge kit, but I don't think they have actual batter recharging stations like that. What you could do is just get rechargeable AA batteries. I can recommend Eneloop, this kit here seems like it'd be pretty good.

This is my go to give out light :
Coast HP1 Focusing 190 Lumen LED Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEMUOWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JGdOzbK008RFR

I'd get 2 of these and some AA. While 18 65 0 is better by all geek metrics, the only mom metric that matters is easy.

Depending on your mom, and your assessment of if she will actually take the batteries out for storage, you might want to buy the disposable lithium ones. Or if you think she would do it, some enloops or other nimh with a simple charger.
Sanyo Eneloop Ni-MH Charger and 8 Rechargeable AA and 4 Rechargeable AAA Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VLAEPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xMdOzbXRNZV2G

Lastly and needs a lantern of some kind. Something like this would work if you are on a budget. 2 Pack E-TRENDS Portable LED Lantern Tent Light Bulb for Camping Hiking Fishing Emergency Light, Battery Powered Camping Lamp with 6 AAA Batteries, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW22VAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PTdOzbX0MWWT5

I'm going to try to make this easy for you. Here is a setup that will provide you with some basic solar power. Don't expect to run your laptop 24/7 , but this will give you plenty of juice to get a few creature comforts in place and you'd probably be able to keep a business class laptop going all day with it.

• 100w Solar panel, charge controller $167: https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Polycrystalline-Display-Charge-Controller/dp/B01GVVE2WI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496765420&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=solar+panel+kit&psc=1
  
• small battery box $13: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000B12YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 35AH sealed battery to fit in box $64: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8E0WAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Power inverter with USB ports $37: https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Power-Inverter-Adapter-Charging/dp/B00UFERZKO/ref=pd_sim_86_2?
  
• solar cable connectors $8: https://www.amazon.com/Sun-YOBA-Pairs-Female-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496763777&sr=8-3&keywords=mc4+connector
  
• 100ft of cable to use as needed $30: https://www.amazon.com/Paradise-GL22132-landscape-lighting-protected/dp/B00378K8XG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496763822&sr=8-6&keywords=low%2Bvoltage%2Bcable&th=1
  
  Total cost is under $400
  
  
• Find a conveniently hidden and inconspicuous place to hide the battery and charge controller. Mount them both securely. Make sure you still have access to this space as needed to monitor power.
  
• Run a line from the battery terminals to the battery ports on the charge controller.
  
• Mount the solar panel to the roof using the provided brackets. Make sure you seal that shit up to avoid springing leaks. Run the power from the solar panel to your inverter and hook up the cable to the solar ports on the charge controller. Seal that shit too.
  
• Mount the power inverter wherever you find it convenient. Run a line to the charge controller and mount it to the load ports.
  
  Try to avoid leaving exposed metal wiring at your connections and make sure you have all the positives and negatives matched up and you now have solar power.
  
  When putting this together, I opted for decent starter solar panel, charge controller, and battery. I skipped details such as multiple outlets, custom lighting, and vent fans because that will add more complication as you're wiring multiple things. You could always upgrade to those later.
  
  Down the road, depending on your needs you may want to upgrade to a 100AH battery (it's much larger and heavier so keep that in mind), add a 2-3 more of the 100W solar panels, and add a vent fan and LED lighting.
  
  Keep in mind that heating, cooling, and refrigeration will not be viable with this setup. To run a good fridge/freezer setup like this one, you'd need probably 200AH of storage and 300W of solar panels to be safe.
  

Excerpts:

> In 1896, a dry cell battery manufactured by National Carbon Company became the first commercially available battery in the US. National Carbon Company became Eveready Battery Company, which is also known today as Energizer.
>
> What is most interesting is Energizer’s invention in 1992; the first AA lithium battery.
>
> Impressively, Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA battery has actually set the record for the longest-lasting AA battery; it has been included in the Guinness World Records.
>
> The range can hold its power for up to 20 years; this means they can retain power even when sat on a shelf and not in use.

Eveready invented the first AA battery in 1907. I did not know Eveready owned Energizer. I also did not know they are the same as National Carbon Company. That means from the time of the invention of the first commercially available dry cell in 1896 to the invention of first AA battery in 1907 was only about 11 years. That means AA batteries were on the scene very early in battery history, as if they were meant to be, due to being fundamentally an ideal size or something.

EDIT:

I forgot to include a link to the actual AA Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries:

• AmazonSmile: Energizer AA Lithium Batteries, World's Longest Lasting Double A Battery, Ultimate Lithium (12 Count): Health & Personal Care

I use lithiums too.

When Ni-Zn rechargables have a longer track-record, I'll probably give them a try. My concerns are I have read about leaks. Also Ni-Zn currently require a special charger. Once Ni-Zn batteries have been out a while it'll be safer. The additional voltage is a nice feature for the controllers.

For now, I use these lithiums >> USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)

and I really love how they charge with a little usb-octopus cable -- and the batteries individually light up to show if they're charging (red) or fully charged (green). It's no-brainer easy.

Olight AAA or a Streamlight 66608 if you need a clip.

The Nitecore Tube is really cool with it's infinite ramping. I loved mine till I lost it camping. But no pocket clip.

Hadn't seen the RovyVon before not sure how much faith I'd have in the little wire clip but otherwise looks like a solid option.

You have 6 pieces here, two of which are keys. It’s not a keychain in my opinion, it’s a rat’s nest of shit tied together and dangling from the ignition of your car.

Less is more.

Do you use the carabiner to hook the keys on your belt loop? If not, toss it. I would also toss the flashlight and buy one that you can clip onto your pocket.

Why not just buy a modern 625? You can get them in multi packs from eBay sellers too. Not sure I fully understand all the people using the wrong batteries and making notes of meter compensation.

1. wein cell battery is the modern replacement for this camera although I had mine converted to use a Varta 625 battery when I had it repaired. apparently they last much longer. just remember to switch it off "A" when the camera isn't in use to conserve battery.
   
   
2. I've taken off the top of mine in an attempt to diagnose issues and it was pretty easy to dis and reassemble the cover/film advance leaver. I did not go any further than that. Havent tried to clean the viewfinder or anything either, that might be based on how good of shape it's in and if its worth the effort.
   
   
3. There are a lot of guides on youtube, I haven't tried it but I know you're going to need a spanner to do it.
   
   hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray
   
   The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!

Did you tell him about cr123a batteries and how they have a ten year shelf life? The problem with lithium batteries is that they self-discharge quite rapidly.

Most 18650 lights can accept 2 cr123a batteries rather than an 18650. Here are some high quality cr123a batteries: http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-85177-Lithium-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B000IXCO8K/ref=sr_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1463233535&sr=1-2&keywords=18650

The only issue with cr123a batteries is that they cannot be recharged.

If you are looking rechargeable go with:https://smile.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494114886&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+ups+battery

Else i would use one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-General-Purpose-Terminals/dp/B000ROFZFE/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1494114969&sr=8-2&keywords=lantern%2Bbattery&th=1

The lead acid will run the horn for a couple hours. The lantern battery less.

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

I just have Energizer rechargeables that came with a station for like $12. I have had these for 3-4 years and they still work perfectly and I play a lot.

Edit: This isnt the exact one I have but it is the same thing: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Recharge-Rechargeable-Batteries-Included/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788026&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=energizer%2Brechargeable%2BAA%2Bbatteries&th=1

$13.95, same as Powerex 2700s normally, I believe.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LWMZ5M?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

These are the ones I ordered. LSD, and come in a case, good enough for me! Same performance as glyphs for me.

No problem, I would also recommend Eneloop rechargeable batteries to use with the headlamp. They're one of the best and highly rated. Costco occasionally sells this pack of 8 AA and 4 AAA along with a charger for $26+tax after a coupon but they alternate their deals.

For tail lights I highly recommend the Planet Bike SuperFlash, PDW Radbot 1000 and PDW Danger Zone. Here's a direct link to Portland Design Works' selection of lights. I can't speak for PDW headlights as I have yet to purchase one but the quality of their tail lights is outstanding. All three of these lights cost $25-$30. I purchased them on Amazon.

As for a headlight I use a Fenix LD20 which will set you back $60 but the light is way better than any dedicated bicycle light with the same output (180 lumens @ 2xAA) for that price (e.g. Light & Motion/Magic Shine/NiteRider/etc). The LD20 can be used as an EDC with an assortment of attachments which can also be used on your bike. I've been experimenting with the white diffuser tip and have found that it provides a great 360 degree illumination of my bike at night when mounted on the down tube.

You can mount the light just about anywhere on your bike with either this mount or this one. The first I use on the handlebars and second I use to mount the light on my helmet. They're also good for mounting a lock on the frame.
I also invested in a pack of Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable Ni-MH batteries on amazon.

Whatever lights you decide on settling with I strongly recommend they take AA or AAA batteries as CR123's and 18650's are expensive and hard to come by when on the road.

You can never have too many lights. I've invested over $140 in several lights to be better seen and that's much cheaper than having to pay a hospital bill because I wasn't illuminated enough.

Lastly, I recommend the Delta Airzound Air Horn. This thing is a beast and impresses everyone that sees it and scares many that hear it. It has saved me from two very near collisions at night when my lights just weren't enough because the drivers weren't paying attention at all.

A fraction of the duration of good rechargeable batteries. This isn't taking into account probably far worse self-discharge and capacity loss over time. Good batteries don't have to be expensive either. You'll end up spending less if you simply go and buy decent ones with a halfway decent charger.

Or for only $2 more, you get twice as many batteries!

>My Garmin HRM-Tri informed me today that the battery on it is low so I’ve begun weighing my options of what to replace it with.

I guess you mean you're thinking it's a good time to upgrade? Because, pardon me if you already know this, but you can just replace the battery with a CR2032 with these instructions.

Changing the battery is easy
I had to do it in my keyfob, as my dashboard was telling me it was low and I didn't want to wait

Here is a link to the battery I bought
It is a 3V CR2032 Battery
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0042A9UXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
(This is a link to the Canadian Amazon)

These are the specific items I'm currently considering using for these experiments:

Solarpanel: https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Battery-Charger-Adjustable-Bracket/dp/B016P4TZCS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668141&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=12v+solar+panel&psc=1

SLAB: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668335&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+rechargable+battery

Li-ion: https://www.amazon.com/6800mAh-Battery-Rechargeable-Emergency-Interphone/dp/B01IAT0XK4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668335&sr=8-15&keywords=12v+rechargable+battery

I use this battery, a wall charger, and a the DC power source for my ResMed AirSense 10 auto. I get two nights off the battery no problem. As a matter of fact, I need to go charge it now for an overnight with the Cub Scouts tomorrow!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TpHQDbBMXSPWM

Except when Energizer batteries are also cheap in price batteries.

First thing reboot your phone.

While it's rebooting check the battery in the go plus. I've had a "new" battery be dead. I used a cheap multimeter I've had for years.

After the reboot go into the settings of pokemon go and "eject" the go plus.

Close pokemon go.

Turn Bluetooth on then reopen the app

Reconnect the go plus inside the pokemon go app. Of it's still having issue open the Bluetooth settings and see if you can see the go plus in there.

If you see it in the Bluetooth settings force close pokemon go. Might have to clear the cache or uninstall then reinstall. Redo the steps again.

If you can't and you're sure the battery is good call for a warranty on it. They are serious on the warranty date from what I heard.

Below is the official support page.
https://support.pokemongo.nianticlabs.com/hc/en-us/articles/227363467-Help-with-the-Pokémon-GO-Plus


Good luck. Also Amazon sells Energizer batteries at a good price for ten of them usually. Go for those, the cheap batteries last half as long as the Energizers. I get a week to a week and a half on one battery. I use the go plus every day for hours at work and my commute. The Energizers are worth it

These are what I've bought. Shipping is pretty quick even though it's not a Prime item.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FO9HQLS/ref=sxts_bia_sr1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1492569186&sr=1

Hope this helps.

Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.

$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel

$20 Charge Controller from Amazon

$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good

$11 Battery to inverter cables

$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery

$14 12V LED lights

$5 light wiring

$6 Switch

$38 Solar Panel Wires

$13 Battery Cables

$16 Conduit Pipe

$17 Unistrut

$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay

Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.

So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.

I am going to echo others who suggested that it might be a good idea to prepare a way (or several ways!) to heat food without fire. No point in storing all that rice if you have no plans to cook it. For a bug-in grid-down situation, my plan involves a set of 12 volt deep cycle batteries (which will become part of my battery bank when I eventually save enough money to go solar) and a 400 watt inverter as a power source for a small slow cooker (90 watt) or a small rice cooker (300 watt). What I like about this system is:

It's very effective for boiling water, cooking stored grain, canned food, etc.
It is very quiet, just a little bit of a hum from the inverter fan, unlike a noisy generator, which could attract uninvited guests.
Can safely be used indoors without risk of CO fumes, although you do want to be very careful with any sort of lead acid battery - keep it in a protective container.

Only drawback I see is you do need access to clean drinking water (for cooking and/or clean-up afterwards) and you need to keep lead acid batteries charged or they lose power over time. Stored and maintained properly, this could be a good prep for folks in apartments.

I went with AGM deep cycle because they are cheaper, and do not require a battery management system, or an external battery to battery charge controller to charge off the alternator.

I used 3x100 amp hour batteries (https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466452542&sr=8-1&keywords=agm+deep+cycle).

That makes $460 including shipping for 150 amp hours of useable battery at 50% depth of discharge.

150 amp hours of lithium ion batteries is $1900 dollars. And then you have to factor in added cost for a battery to battery charger if you want to charge off the alternator.

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/lithium-rv-deep-cycle.php

If you aren't an expert on batteries, stick with AGM deep cycle. They are dead easy to use, and here is a video of me running a blendtec off them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqF7YbjVpnc

As a side note, to run it for a week, you'd need this battery (it weighs 64lbs/29kg and is more than 12in/30cm long). I'm sure you can see why trying to do it with a battery would be quite counterproductive if you were aiming for a discreet profile :D

Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.

80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0

100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C

2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.

Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/

If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're looking for the Wein cell.

Wein Cell makes a great replacement for the original mercury battery. I'll provide the link below. The battery is the only one that is accurate, and is not too costly. I don't know how long the battery lasts, I hear it usually goes for 3 months before the battery wains. The camera can also shoot fully manual, with no battery in the camera at all. It's very handy for learning to shoot film, and also if the battery runs out you're not completely out of luck. I'd highly recommend the camera, I found it for $70 on eBay in very good condition, only needed new light seals. I love my camera, definitely look into it. http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

That's a great deal if the camera works. The SRT 102 has a match needle meter system, but you can operate the camera fully manually without a battery in it, as it is a fully mechanical shutter and aperture system.

In terms of what to check for for the SRT-102 specifically.

1. About half way through the production (or early on, I'm not sure of the details), Minolta stopped making them with the mirror lockup option. If that's important for you, make sure the one you're looking at has it.
   
   
2. Check to see if the mirror is stuck. As mentioned, if your model has a lockup, make sure that isn't engaged. If the mirror sticks after shooting, it may be that the bumper is degraded.
   
   
3. Shutter issues - the SRT102 has a cloth shutter, so make sure it's in good condition. If you have access to the camera before buying it, I'd highly recommend you shoot blanks (without film with the back open) to verify the magnitude of the shutter speeds (ie, 1/8 isn't the same sound as 1/250 isn't the same as 1/1000). Also look to see if the entire shutter curtain operates properly.
   
   
4. Check the light sealing, as it may need to be replaced.
   
   
5. Check the depth of field preview to make sure it's smooth and functioning. The SRT-102's works on a toggle. Push the tab in, and it will preview the DoF and button remains depressed. Press it again to release it (kind of like a ball point pen).
   
   
6. If the camera is mechanically sound (shutter is fine, film advance is smooth and not grindy, DoF preview is good) then I'd say 90$ is a great price for it, especially with that Rokkor-X f/1.4 nifty fifty. Is the glass clean?
   
   
7. If you care about the meter, verify its function both by using/bringing a mercury replacement cell and using the "B.C." function on the bottom of the camera. Also look through the glass to see if your exposure is approximately right (use sunny 16 or an external meter to verify). Also, this is a good opportunity to check if the battery terminals are mucky and shitty.

LA Police Gear has some and with code LABOR15 its 15% off which is worth it if youre buying other things Like medical equipment or w.e. they have on sale.

Otherwise Amazon might be cheaper with shipping

It really depends on what amplifier you use. If you use the Lepai, then a simple 12v lead acid battery will work. If you want to go with a little higher end amp, then you will likely need 2 12v batteries.

The power wheel runs off of a 9.5ah 12v sealed acid battery, I actually bought a separate 5ah 12v battery to run the stereo and the lights also used these waterproof speakers so I can take out the stereo and hose it out when it gets muddy.

I'm going to be adding two new 12v batteries to the system in a parallel/series switching capacity to momentarily bump the voltage to 24v as a 'turbo button' option in the next couple weeks ;)

I know the consensus is to go with Eneloop batteries but I've been using Energizer rechargeable batteries for over two years and they work great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I8II22/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1376521564&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00339NINQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1376521711&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

I fail to see your point sorry..... Oh and here is a little present:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sRT4h_YMQ4

If you consider that hard to do, then your intelligence is really lacking and there's truly no other reason to continue this discussion.


I'm sorry you are stuck with tons of devices which operate on your precious AA's, I only have my TV remote and Direct TV controller that use such trinkets.

Sorry for the bad grammar I'm on my Iphone which uses one of those proprietary non-removable batteries which make life easier, maybe they should make a phone which uses AA's so you don't have to look for charger!

These batteries with this charger brings the MFLB to life and allows you to do much more efficient vaping. I know you may be thinking, "jeez, $50 for a charger," this charger does wonders even for your older stock MFLB batteries. It's a huge upgrade if you're still using the stock charger and batteries. Also these batteries are great for long trips away from your charger.

Sure let me find it

*Edit - This one is very similar to the one I purchased, except you get 2 set's of AAA's and 8 AA's, though you don't get the useless C or D battery adapters. There's a few different options out there but I'd go with this one.

I have the X41s and they are an awesome set. You will hear -everything- very well.

There are a few downsides to this set however:

There is a bit of a 'buzzing' when the headphones are on and when there is no sound. You cannot hear this when there is sound however.

I was getting a bit of 'popping' or 'static' now and then. I replaced the really epically thin optical cable with a cheap one off Amazon and fixed that.

Batteries! I use these.

And sometimes the voice chat is hard to balance where you can hear everyone and so some people don't blow out your eardrums.

A pack of rechargables (Eneloops) and a decent charger (pretty much anything) would be a far better investment.

Charger + 8 AA + 4 AAA - some shopping around would probably land a better deal.

Depends on whether or not you want continued warranty and your level of technical expertise, heres an example of a newer cpu battery and here's an example of an older one.

You should contact your motherboard's support before trying any of this, they might just send you a battery for free/cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC

Had to replace the wife's battery in her fit meter so I ordered these from Amazon, super cheap and they've been trucking on. Our Walmart down the street didn't have any.

belt it around the sole of your left foot depending on your shoe size or the palm of your left hand while driving. that's when the pogo+ is most useful. when you're at home hanging out, catch manually. the pogo+ only has a 30-40% chance of catching successfully, and won't be altered by your medals. you also do not get the bonus for first catch, accuracy, or curve.

the pogo+ can only use regular pokeballs because niantic is retarded, so if you have 0 red balls and hundreds of greats and ultras, you cannot catch any pokemon with the pogo+, so make sure your supply of these is nice and high.

save normal balls for the pogo+. switch your default catches manually to great/ultra.

make sure you buy a pack of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XBK7PG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


there's a really small screw in the back of the pogo+ you need to undo first. if you have an eyeglass repair kit with a phillips, that ought to work. if you don't, the tip of a paring knife or swiss army knife will work too.

the battery will go on for about a month if it's fresh. if your pogo+ was sitting around a warehouse or gamestop it may be low. I advise changing the battery right away just in case.

speaking of battery, assuming your pogo+ stays connected for an hour without disconnecting for no reason or the app crashing (AHAHAHA) it will disconnect automatically to save battery, so when using it for long periods of time, check in on your phone every now and again.

disregarding time, the pogo+ is kind of a piece of shit and will often disconnect for no reason, so if you've got your phone in your pocket while walking around school or work and pass what you know is a stop and it doesn't buzz, or you haven't caught anything in a while, check it and make sure it is still connected.

the pogo+ will prioritize catching mon over spinning stops, so if you're driving for example and there's a mon and a stop next to each other, it'll take the mon. if you're low on supplies and need to resupply, switch off "catch pokemon" in the settings.

in your settings, you can have the thing buzz for mon (green for repeats, yellow for an undiscovered species), stops (blue), both, or neither.


this will help you a lot in getting dust, which is our new limiting factor.

enjoy

Good, cuz they're so expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FO9HQLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought a 10 pack (well 2 5 packs) of energizer CR2032s for $7 yesterday on Amazon

Eneloop Pros are the best according to www.which.co.uk

Panasonic Eneloop Pro AA 2500mAh Eneloop NiMH Ready to Use Rechargeable Battery BK 3HCDE/4BE (4 Eneloop Pro Batteries) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JWC40JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pwNxCb2B5KW3Z

En ce moment tu as des bons prix pour le Nikon sb700 , c'est un très bon flash cobra milieu de gamme, qui sera très bon pour des photos de soirées.

Le sb500, plus récent, a bonne réputation aussi. Mais il est moins puissant, moins complet, et le temps de rafraichissement entre chaque photo est bien plus long (2 piles aa contre 4 je crois).

Pour les autres marques compatibles Nikon je ne sais pas.

Tips : pour du portrait, essaye de faire rebondir le flash sur un mur clair ou le plafond plutôt que de flasher directement dans la tête du modèle. Tu peux ajouter un petit diffuseur avec une carte de visite si le flash n'en a pas d'intégré pour rééclairer le visage et les yeux. Même principe qu'un réflecteur intégré.

Pour les piles je te conseille dans tous les cas les Eneloop Pro noires, elles sont top. Si tu peux avoir un chargeur de pile intelligent qui te permet de recharger lentement tes accus c'est parfait, elles dureront très longtemps.

The thing with car batteries is you gotta worry about them flipping and spilling acid into other chambers. Probably won't be an issue, but it can be. Which is why I suggested an AGM. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG

I'd get one of these and carry it on:

https://www.amazon.com/MOHOO-Bendable-Lightweight-Connector-Compatibility/dp/B06XVWPD7N/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055237&sr=8-11&keywords=100+w+folding+solar

Note that you'll need a battery (AGM/sealed) and at minimum a solar charge controller. I like these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191QN7OO/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=dnE5M&pf_rd_r=86BF01NK65JWJANM0TKG&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0191QN7OO&pd_rd_w=BQDtY&pf_rd_i=solar+charge+controller&pd_rd_r=8YE8X122ADP49YFNBB11&ie=UTF8&qid=1506055373&sr=1

Appropriate battery:

https://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055420&sr=8-10&keywords=agm+battery

What are the dimensions? It's the right voltage for a car battery and it looks like it's car battery-sized, but 10Ah is tiny for a car battery. If it fits, you can get a much higher capacity car battery (here's one that's 12V, 35Ah). Odds are you can take that 35 Ah battery and run it 2-3 as longer than the battery you had in there. Otherwise, you can get another 12V, 10Ah battery (here's one) for cheaper. No matter what you get, try to remember to charge before the battery gets too low though because lead acid doesn't like being all the way depleted.

Something like this ?:

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-Rechargeable-Threaded-Terminals/dp/B00KC39BE6

I don't think that upgrading the main battery is really what you're looking for. You could get something small like this that could charge off the alternator (plenty of guides on how to do that) and provide enough juice for lights and phones.

That battery pack says "12v" but it's totally different from what people mean when they say "12v battery". I'd go with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Instapark%C2%AE-Black-Mono-crystalline-charge-controller/dp/B004FOGL0K/ref=pd_bxgy_86_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1T501PPQ3EGHT5JYTXX5

http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-Rechargeable-Threaded-Terminals/dp/B00KC39BE6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1454045541&sr=8-13&keywords=lead+acid+battery

That solar panel comes with a charge controller, I think; forget the diy option, it's just not worth the trouble when you can get one on amazon for five bucks.

You haven't really specified how bad it will be if this thing runs out of power. I don't know where you're located but in most places in winter especially it's not uncommon to have basically zero sunlight for several days at a time. You need to spec your battery to run the load that many nights -- and if it actually goes to that full limit frequently, it'll trash the battery in short order. If there's any chance of the battery running out, you need something to disengage the load, otherwise it'll drain the battery below the point where it's damaged. Some solar charge controllers have that feature.

Yes. u/funbob suggested the 20Ah version for only ~$5 more, but it has screw type terminals. The TS-180S draws 1.6A on standby, and ~20A on transmit. I would recommend at least three in parallel, which is 60Ah. It would take much longer to charge, but as a backup battery, that should be fine, because a 12v charger/maintainer allows you to leave it plugged in indefinitely, and it will always be charged and ready to use.

Agreed, I went to a computer store and Best Buy and didn't spot any.

Amazon has 8 for $4.50 or 4 for $3.20:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=AAAA+batteries&qid=1566852995&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOENYTkMyUklIUVBPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzY4MTc2MzIzNVlDUTZIMjBHTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTI0OTMyM1ZMS0xOSjlLS1NDSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Here you go.

My system specs are: 8 12volt 100ah AGM batteries wired in series parallel to 48volts https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=solar+battery&qid=1560105771&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Charge controller is Epever 80 amp mppt https://www.amazon.com/EPEVER-Controller-1000-4000W-Negative-Regulator/dp/B07KP5BY11

It sounds like when you add milk to rice crispies cereal.... I have read AGM should make no noise. Thanks for the response.

I personally recommend going with these to avoid the lead acid issues ScreamingEel mentioned. I just checked camelcamelcamel and they have gotten as low as 125 a piece. They were actually 125 yesterday, which is a killer deal. I think I paid 180 a piece :(

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

First off, to answer your question:

That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.

​

Second, you don't want those batteries:

You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.

I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.

​

This is more in line with what you want, most likely:

Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

​

EDIT:

So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.

Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.

​

EDIT 2:

So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.

Much appreciated! I'm in the US so that doesn't work for me, I've found a 100ah on amazon for the same price though. I think there's a UK alternative too

> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.

Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.

By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.

Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.

> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.

Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.

If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.

> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.

I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.

> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.

Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.

Ah. $100 for 8 amp hours (80% of 10 ah). That's not nearly as much power as the ones I linked. $170 for 50ah (50% of 100ah). I'll keep recommending the agms for the time being


edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/

Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.

If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).

Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.

Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!

Are you using AAA or AA? Are you using Alkaline or Lithium? I'm using a AAA lithium battery

just search for (AAA to AA adapter)

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Battery-Convertor-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01EJ7IMRW/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1526428920&sr=8-4&keywords=aaa+to+aa&dpID=41a6qVoOmLL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B071CNQ3TG/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1526428991&sr=1-4&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&dpID=51poIJtVb8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

But maybe try it first before ordering all those extras

Lithium batteries https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Pack/dp/B071D87WPV ,weigh less and last longer :). AAA with tin foil wont harm the mouse but can come loose and lose contact as I had with mine. I fixed that by wrapping the battery in paper towel to make the fit tighter and haven't had any problems. The lightest option is lithium AAA with tin foil which can get the mouse around 82 grams.

I just got a streamlight micro-stream. At 250 lumens it’s not super powerful, but it’s usb rechargeable or takes a triple A battery so power isn’t an issue. About as thick as a sharpie marker and maybe has as long, love it so far. I know it comes in a burnt bronzey color

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/131-7718342-7786746?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=50bc7d98-d190-4025-95a8-7b605e00cf47&pd_rd_w=f3ehg&pd_rd_wg=837j7&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3&psc=1&refRID=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3

I personally use 1.5v lithium ion AA batteries with the built-in micro-usb charging board. Something like these. Unlike every other battery, these output a constant 1.5v from fully charged to fully dead because internally it uses a 3.7v battery that is stepped down to 1.5v. They have a lower capacity compared to other batteries, but they also charge in 1-2 hours with just a micro USB cable, so that doesn't really matter to me.

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LVWTDbM5EP6YB

I would probably get a day or so out of energizer rechargeables as well.

Now I get a week if I play heavily. I bought these is September and only had to recharge them once when I wanted to play.

Yup.I use these




USB Rechargeable Batteries 1500mAh,Long-life Li-on Battery AA with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable,1.5h Quick-Charge with USB Port Patented Design, Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection(4pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qYOSCbZEMQ9MS

I plan on picking some of these USB rechargeable AA batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F27PK2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

have been an absolute dream for me. I was going through a set of energizers a DAY playing no man's sky.. these get me through the same amount of time and I just plug them in overnight. Great lights on them telling you when charged and never had a low battery warning. LOVE THEM.

I use these. They can last quite a while as long as you take them out of the controllers when you aren't using them.
However, rechargeables won't tell you when they're getting low. They're designed to output 100% power whether they're full or almost-empty.

Sounds like you need a decently bright, durable light that runs on batteries that will take a very long time to drain, and won't mind temperature extremes.

I don't usually recommend lights that run on AA cells, but if you're looking something you can just leave in your vehicle and never have to think about charging, you probably want something that runs on lithium primary batteries (not lithium ion, NiMH, and definitely not alkaline). Lithium primary batteries are much less affected by hot and cold temperatures and will hold a charge much longer than any other typical consumer battery.

Your best bet for a mix of durability, quality, brightness, and features would be either the:

• Armytek Prime A2 (use coupon code 'reddit' at Killzone for 1-% off, bringing it down to $64.80 and free shipping.
  
  EDIT: Note that /u/jotMJEG just shared an anecdote about three Armytek lights failing when left in vehicles, so you may wish to consider the Zebralight instead.
  
  or
  
  
• Zebralight SC5w Mk II.
  
  Both lights will be very durable and high quality (Armytek and Zebralight are noted for this - though questions have been raised about Armytek), and more than bright enough.
  
  You should use a lithium primary AA battery, such as the Energizer Lithium. That way you can throw it in the light and never think about it until you run it down from use, or maybe in about 20 years of non-use.
  
  ***
  
  EDIT: And by the way, I recommend a AA lithium rather than a lithium CR123 for two reasons:
  
  (1) Due to the AA's higher capacity (3,000 mAh vs the CR123's 1,500 mAh typical), the AA will have longer runtimes before needing a replacement, and
  
  (2) The shelf life of a lithium AA is typically around 20 years vs. a CR123's typical 10 years. That means a AA lithium should have more juice and hold up better when you need it.
  
  The added brightness some CR123 lights can achieve is not going to be that noticeable or matter much for your occasional use, but the extra runtime and shelf life will.

Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA Batteries, 12 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D87WPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tsN-Ab4FDJ05C
I’m not in the battery game but do you even need an adapter? It says the item weight for these AA batteries is .16 oz which converts to 4.54 grams. So the g305 would be 80.54 grams. Am I missing something?

You think so huh?

• Here is one...
  
• and another
  
  There are plenty of options in the AA format even if they are not just cells...

These batteries are good:
https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=1.5v+rechargeable+aa+batteries&qid=1568976823&sprefix=1.5v+rech&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBMVpTM082RkI5V0ImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MzczNTdaNE9XVUlJM1A2TU4mZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDk5NzE1OTJCMUxYTU9UUlVHR1cmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

forgot to say these are the batteries i use https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Pack/dp/B071D87WPV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lithium+batteries&qid=1557774619&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Get it and also make sure you purchase quality batteries to per your motion controllers. I couldn't believe how I'd kill expensive lithium disposable batteries in less then a day of heavy use.

I saw someone post on here about purchasing these batteries with a positive review.


https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M

I couldn't be happier that I bought a set for my controllers.

I get 3 days of 5-7 hour moderate usage before they need a recharge and should last a little over two years of they actually reach the 1000 cycle recharge limit claimed. My tracking has improved as well. There is a significant difference in how bright the controllers are compared to brand new Energizer lithium Ions when installed and turned on right next to each other.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_W7b1DbA3YPBED

I'm just starting to rebuild my light collection since it was decimated by goblins.

Thanks man. Always wanted to try a microstream.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7NfpDbZ71ETFZ

Here we go!

Streamlight Microsstream

Thank you for doing this!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cg9RDbV9PFN3T

The added recharchability would be a nice feature to have so I dont gotta replace batteries.

thanks!

https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/?tag=parametrek-20

Awesome. Thank you.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bNl1DbXJZJT4B

I’d like to try a Streamlight micro stream!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XKx1DbYX3P49X

Thank you!

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-1-c3RyZWFtbGlnaHQ%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=olight&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=2b11bc02-81a0-42ac-9bca-adec1c2ee422&pd_rd_w=1Sna4&pd_rd_wg=ZhMPG&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=KVVPZHDRVWVZFZCTFPBQ&qid=1568729429&s=gateway

Amazon - Streamlight USB in Tan

Thank you for doing this giveaway again!

Cheaper option with one mode.

USB option with high/low modes.

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M

It has the same LEDs and everything.

USB Rechargeable Batteries... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These work great for me. Haven't lost connection and they haven't exploded yet so thats a good sign.

Why, the internet of course! Wein makes them and they work - I've got one working in my Nikon F right now and it's been there for years.
Here, or here, or here.

You'll need a 1.35v mercury-equivalent replacement battery, and not just something you pick up at Wal-Mart. Weincell makes a good one.

Bought this off Amazon, works pretty well.

I can’t speak to the F3, but I love my Canonet. I have an earlier model QL17 with a 45mm lens. I have only used the wein cell battery and my light meter has been very accurate. I usually point towards the ground to meter for shadows and then manually set my exposure.

Previously, I have only shot on canon DSLRs. I have really enjoyed working with a rangefinder. I did a first impressions post in the rangefinders subreddit and all of my posts on analog have been from my Canonet.

Just my 2 cents!

So would this battery suffice as a replacement or no?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q3BLBbJ8ED3SD

Right off the bat it sounds like your meter may be broken. However, there are a few things to check first before declaring that.

1. Make sure you use the correct battery. As /u/iamthejeff_ pointed out, the OM-1 natively takes a battery that is no longer available. A weincell or a hearing aid battery will give you the proper voltage. You don't 100% need an o-ring to center the hearing aid battery. The cap should do a good job keeping it on the contact tab.
   
   Once you've gotten a battery of the correct voltage you can test the meter again. One thing of note is that the meter movement itself is mechanical. It will respond to the aperture ring and shutter speed movement even if the meter itself is dead. The meter only reads from around 2EV to 17EV so make sure you test this in sunlight to see if the meter is actually functional. If you're in a lit room it's possible that the meter simply isn't sensitive enough for the light in the room.
   
   
2. If you have a regular OM-1 not the n or MD variant (though I think this MAY apply to some MD variants, I can't recall) then you can also take off the bottom plate by removing the 4 bottom screws and check the battery contact screw. On early models this was made of nylon and is easily broken. This can cause improper electrical contact and make the meter appear inoperable. If you have an n model they all used metal screws so this wouldn't be the case.
   
   If all of this checks out and the meter is inoperable then I'd say it's pretty safe to call your meter dead. If you have an interest in reviving the meter you can send it to John Hermanson to do a CLA on the camera. I'm pretty sure he can replace the meter cells.
   
   His website is here.
   
   However, given your circumstances that's probably too slow and too expensive.
   
   
   You can also simply use the camera without a meter. It's a mechanical camera and doesn't need the meter to take photos. You will simply need to employ an external light meter or use Sunny16 or similar exposure rules.
   
   If a light meter in-camera is a must then buying another OM-1 is quite cheap on eBay.
   

https://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

Make sure it's not in A mode when testing. If you don't have a battery it and it's in A it won't fire the shutter. It should when in manual mode though. If it works $50 is a nice price. It's a great camera. I like mine a lot. I stopped putting a battery in mine though, it's not really worth it and the meter probably need calibration. You can get a Wein cell from Amazon though.

Any suggestions for replacing an old mercury px625 battery for a Canonet QL17? So far the best I can find is a Weincell but they're expensive and I hear don't last very long.

It does! But you're gonna need these mercury voltage equivalent replacement batteries to get the right voltage and reading. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V if I'm not mistaken which will throw off the reading. Everything will work fine otherwise!

this?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_odbLBbCN9WDAZ

Yeah, comparing the meter against another camera is a good idea. Is it really so expensive to mail it to the States? I've done crazier things. Sent my Pentax from Texas to Tennessee to have it overhauled, although I guess that's not as far.

As an alternate solution, these Wein batteries are specially designed to output the same 1.35V as the original discontinued mercury cells. They're expensive, though: http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=pd_cp_p_1

You just won't be able to use the light metering. I have the same camera, and this is the battery I use. Works like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009VQJ7/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

With my Tilts, I calibrate in vapor distilled water using a Thermapen. Having a job with giant test labs have it's benefits.

I calibrate those bastards EACH and every brew. They know what 0.000 is.

I then re-calibrate them in the wort with the specific gravity reading from my hydrometer and refractometer. The tilts NEVER agree until you tell them, 'hey stupid, this shit is 1.065 not 1.055'. That being said, the gunk during fermentation is going to screw with the numbers. I never trust the reading other than stable. 60% attention for 6 days, that beer is done. I'll take a real reading when I package.

I used them a lot more before to get a hang of my normal 12.5° - 17° P (1.050 - 1.070) turn around times using a handful of different yeasts. They were awesome for that data. I have a table now of stuff that can turn around in 5 days, 7 days, 10 days, and 14 days.

I use them more now in ciders and meads in the documenting of a fast process. Helps with degas, nutrient additions, and temperature control (all key when wanting to try 14 and 21 day cider and 21 and 28 day mead.

As for rechargeable batteries. That is most likely a pipe dream. They rely on the weight/density of the battery as part of the system. CR123a are expensive, replacing them isn't difficult or stressful.

TL/DR: Tilts are cool, don't trust them on attenuation, rechargeable batteries not an option for time being.

A lot of the lights run on higher voltage (3v) lithium batteries such as the CR 123A batteries

1. ManBug G10
   
   
2. Pocket suspension clip, with built-in tools
   
   
3. More batteries!
   
   +
   
   --------------
   
   = $103.03
   
   

The internet is your friend. Physical stores charge out the ass for them, but you can get them online for relatively cheap.
12 pack for $18.66

If you're looking to use batteries and want higher power, you might think about using 2x CR123A cells in series. That would give you 6 volts, which wouldn't be too much waste for the regulator.

These are non-rechargeable, which is good. If you run rechargeable batteries without the proper protection circuitry to prevent over-discharge (letting the battery voltage get too low), bad things can happen.

Or you could look into an Arduino variant with a built in JST plug that's designed for use with a lithium rechargeable battery, like the Adafruit Flora or Gemma, or the newly released MKR1000

Thanks to this sub I found the Olight i6 Paladin. I bought it like 8 months ago for around $80, but the price has since dropped to $40. I bought it from Amazon.

For those on mobile or something the dets are:

• 420 Lumens for 1 hr
  
• 80 Lumens for 5.8 hours
  
• Cree XM-L LED
  
• Two brightness levels
  
• Water resistant to IPX-8 standard
  
• Mil-Spec MIL-STD-810F
  
  Next is the Streamlight TLR-1 weapon light.
  
  
• 200-300 Lumens at 2.5 hours supposedly, but I think it's more around 1.5
  
• C4 LED, shock resistant, 50,000 hour lifetime
  
• 4.18 oz
  
• Water proof up to 1 meter for 30 minutes by IPX7 standards
  
• The model I have has a strobe function. Also has a always on, or hold switch for on mode.
  
• You can find it for $110ish, the old price was closer to $200.
  
  Then the light I regret buying but didn't care to return--the TLR-3. I bought the TLR-3 only to realize the TLR-1 was significantly better and decently priced.
  
  
• 100 Lumens for 1.5 hours
  
• Momentary/steady on/off switch.
  
• You can find it for around $70
  
  
  The TLR is the "poor mans" weapon light, if you have money you should look into Surefire.
  
  Before I bought the weapon lights, I thought the "arm" on the back of the light that extends past the trigger guard was part of the mount system, but it's actually the switch. Just a now you know type thing.
  
  All three lights in this post can use the same batteries. I bought them on Amazon

CR123a is a common battery type used in more powerful appliances than AA batteries.

I buy batteries from Amazon. 20 bucks for a box of streamlight batteries. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IXCO8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450529111&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=cr123a+lithium+batteries&dpPl=1&dpID=51Q21OwBzhL&ref=plSrch#

These are the ones I bought. They are identical to the ones the Tilt comes with. Unfortunately there's no good way to turn off the hydrometer so you'll have to replace the battery every 3 to 4 months. There's a writeup on how to do that on their website.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IXCO8K/ref=yo_ii_img

Streamlight ProTac 2L-X, 500 lumen, takes CR123A batteries, or streamlight's own battery.

Light: here
Battery+Charger: here

Both batteries offer the same 500 lumen lighting but the batteries above^ last 45 mins longer and you don't have to spend $20 on a 12 pack of batteries.

thanks for your help!

would a battery like this be suitable to brightly light up the strip?
http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-Lantern-Battery-General/dp/B000ROFZFE

So, I agree with everyone else. It depends a lot on how long you want to run it for... and how much you want to spend.

If you want to do this once, and roughly 20-30 minutes of run time is long enough, then this should work:
http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-Lantern-Battery-General/dp/B000ROFZFE

It's a bit big for a pocket, but the price is right... Snip the wall connector plug to the LED and then attach it to the terminals. Just make double-sure you get the polarity correct (positive to positive, negative to negative) on the plug. If you do it backwards, bad things will likely happen.

If you want to do this more than once or twice, I'd personally recommend, calling up or emailing batteryspace.com and asking them (http://www.batteryspace.com/contactus.aspx). If you can find out what the connector is on the LED string - and the polarity of it (always key), then ask batteryspace to make a custom 12V NiMH pack for that connector and then ask for a charger for it as well.

This will run it for about 20 minutes and will get pretty warm in the process and probably would fit in a big pocket (smaller than the Rayovac cell though).
http://www.batteryspace.com/customizednimhbatterypack12v2200mah10xaa.aspx
with this charger:
http://www.batteryspace.com/smartcharger07afor84v-12vnimhbatterypack--ullisted.aspx

If you want to run it longer, then you'll need a bigger (more expensive pack). If you want it to weigh less or be small, then you'll need to switch to a lithium polymer pack. But see what batteryspace.com recommends. If you tell them what you want, they can make it for you. And, no, I'm not associated with them.

As an alternative, I've used these guys too (different company, different batteries, but same type of thing...):
http://www.all-battery.com/

I recently added LED lighting to my closet and gun-cabinet using these:

LED Strip

In the closet I added a motion sensor (this one)
and a power adapter for 120v to 12v. Has tons of light and it's awesome having it be motion activated.

In the gun cabinet I used the same style LED strip, but am running it off of a battery (this one) and a toggle switch.

I could easily run another motion sensor in the cabinet though, that might work out better for your scenario. If you have the room for the battery you can just secure it with some double-sided tape, add the motion sensor and have it run an entire strip of the LEDs (it'll be very bright), though you might only need a few sections of LED.

You could also grab one of these lantern batteries and use it with the cigarette lighter adapter. It should be able to charge your devices for a while. Can't recharge it, but $15 for a few days of power isn't bad.

I was actually looking at a 12v 5aH alarm battery that fits the dimensions of the remaining space of the box. it's an SLA but I wish I could find a gel cell with the same dimensions. As for the panel, I've settle on not being able to run the amp on it, but I am pretty certain I can fit a big enough panel for a trickle charge that will at least extend the life of the battery when the lid is open. To fully recharge in a reasonable amount of time I guess I'll just hook it up to my motorcycle tender.

Key here is space for the battery and being able to fit it in the lid for the panel, kind of limits my options but I've been enjoying the learning experience of learning about solar and refreshing on some basics.

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

• handle $3
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
  
  
• optional $11 voltmeter + USB charger ports
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
  
  
• plus another ~$12 in other misc build materials
  
  After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
  
  What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
  

hobbyking.com, buy a decent lipo pack and a lipo->5v regulator, relatively cheap. For the 24v, it's up to you, you can get there with rc packs, alternately just buy a ryobi lion trimmer or similar with the 24v packs, you can grab the power directly off the leads.

@24v you're talking around 4aH, so some of the larger lion packs will do, if you go lipo you'll need to run a few more in parallel which is tricky.

The 5v is the easy bit, there are 5v switching regulators everywhere, the 24v is the tricky bit. As I said, something like a ryobi will get you there fast. Otherwise your inverter system will work fine too, just more expensive really.

edit:
Actually, have you considered running 2 sla motorcycle batteries in parallel? http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Alarm-Battery-12v5ah-Hour/dp/B0010Z4MDK ? You can buck down to 5v from there, http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Switched-Regulator/dp/B00CESVORE , then run your secondary system off that. Seems cheap, easy, not too big and it'll work.

I've worked with mikrotik before, and done 802.11n work, curious what you're trying to do exactly, but assuming it's unidirectional wifi repeating, so you'll have to adjust the interframe spacing and a few other things while you're at it. Think mikrotik mostly uses the atheros chipset so you're looking at hacking the driver slightly (which is unpleasant in the extreme, had to maintain it at an oem for a bit).

sounds above my iq grade but a real stellar idea...

So I could get this: https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=zg_bs_389574011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4KS108G7HZRV4KP2DW1J

and something like this: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Battery-Tender-reg/734156.uts?productVariantId=3889810&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03913618&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_ZrXBRDXARIsAA8KauSl6RB8_k3tjvSa-RMkw1E3QEnAKG3qsLVUDwcGoMs5PBzu1WslmZIaAmD2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and something like this: https://www.ebay.com/p/12v-to-9v-Dc-dc-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulator-D/1468959390?iid=183113006956&chn=ps

Not sure I understand the best battery to pick given I don't know how to calculate or predict the necessary amperage rating...

would the order go: wall outlet -> battery tender -> battery -> 12v to 9v converter -> to amp board??

Also thank you for your time and for responding!

The other option is to pair these two items.

https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Digital-Display-Charging/dp/B01MQM4EDY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494212043&sr=8-1&keywords=potek+inverter

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494212143&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+5ah+battery

Not my idea, taken from an older thread. Less elegant, much cheaper.

The color temp will be important in your application, check out these bulbs, they have the right color and are very forgiving of low voltage and reverse polarity and are sealed against moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAALVM6


These are 3w each and put the same light as a 60w light bulb, for 5 hours of run time you'll need 1.25 amp hours of battery per light bulb, you'll also need a low voltage shut off to protect the batteries.

Here's a battery that could run 4 LED's for 5 hours, https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK

but I'd put in a 10ah battery for redundancy.


Lastly you'll need a solar panel and charge controller,
https://harborfreight.com/home-outdoor/home/solar/100-watt-solar-panel-kit-63585.html

Unfortunately it's not going to fit down the stack, you can lay them leghtwise along the top of the boiler.

I like trains

http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-12volt-Battery-Terminals-BLMFM12_5/dp/B0010Z4MDK/

Thats about the smallest I can find. 3.54" (L) x 2.79" (W) x 3.98" (H). If you really wanted to avoid drilling, I dont think it would fit in a normal size water bottle, but some sort of tupperwear with a screw on lid looks like it would fit in the water holding area if you have the talon I am thinking of.

Ive had ACK install a few things on my boats, and they usually only charge me for parts at the north Austin location. I cant imagine it would be much to have them drill the holes to run your cable where you wanted it.

Depending on the stiip voltage....any small 12v leadacid battery.

Else, there are small A23 batteries that might power small amounts for a short time, they are also 12v


not sure what setup you want explained, because I'm not sure what you want. Strips have a + and a - terminal, or wires. +(red) goes to battery +, and - (black) goes to the negative terminal.

Even better, works the same as long as you've got a phone cable:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6gakub0J2GM33

>I recently bought a play and charge kit from eBay...the battery won't charge...Does anyone have a solution?

if the item was sold as new and/or in working condition, return it. eBay has pretty favorable buyer protection. if it was sold as-is, you are out of luck.

in addition to a stand-alone charging station, your choices are as follows:

• buy a genuine Microsoft play and charge kit, which will have a (short) warranty.
  
  
• buy four (or more) rechargeable AA batteries and a charger.
  
  
• buy a ton of AA batteries.
  
  All three of those choices are around $15 delivered (assuming you are in the USA).

Thanks for the reply.

>Rechargeable batteries are different, they put out fill power all the way until the end and then just die.

Yes, I'd rather have that then the sound slowly degrading and being unbearable.

>i'd save the hassle and go with a good brand like Duracell or Energizer rechargeable ones, 2400mah

I had the impression that Panasonic Eneloops were great and reliable batteries from the many websites talking about them and people's reviews all over Amazon. What do you think? Are those not good?

What about this one? What do you think about the top review on that battery/charger combo?

I bought the [Energizer Rechargeables] (http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Value-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420175127&sr=8-5&keywords=energizer+rechargeable+aa) and they seem to work just fine.

My kitty! She's so cute.

Item

PuppyLove

I have the official plug and play but seem to use this more.

http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Recharge-Rechargeable-Batteries-Included/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453125061&sr=8-6&keywords=energizer+rechargeable+batteries

> whether that is removable or not is less important

This is quite important, as rechargeable batteries have a finite life as well. Imagine your non-replaceable battery pack dying.

Overall, its not a 'big' mistake, because you can go out and buy rechargable batteries anytime you want and use those, regardless if its through the charge and play pack or not.

I would see what mah the batteries are, but they don't say. Most Nyko products are low, while AA Energizer Rechargeables are what I use and recommend. 2300mah batteries will last more than 40 hours of use without a recharge, where 400mah batteries, most likely the ones here, only last around 7 hours of use without a recharge. Most stores sell the four pack AA Energizer with charger for under $15.00, a better deal in my mind.

Edit: here is the link to the Energizers on sale at Amazon. Although I think these are the 2000mah batteries and not the higher 2300mah batteries, they are still very good.

I use these and they have never failed me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00339NINQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495688457&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=energizer+rechargeable+batteries&psc=1

If you can grab Glyph batteries then go for it.
Otherwise read this to understand the consequences of your choices, and grab something in this range:
Powerex 2700mAh
Sanyo Eneloop XX 2500mAh
Imedion 2400mAh

They are well known by the MFLB community and you can't go wrong with these!

Has to be nimh batteries.

Edit: I bought these and they work amazingly Powerex MHRAAI4 Imedion AA 2400mAh 4-Pack Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LWMZ5M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EVDbub1Q4VEAK

Left to Right:

Imedion AA 2400mAh NiMH Batteries

Magic Flight Launch Box Kit

Cali Pollen Crusher -Kief Pucks! (Came with grinder)

Da Buddha Desktop Vaporizer

Sharpstone Herb Grinder

And these are just my vaporizers :D

get some 2700mah or 2400 batteries. there cheap on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHRAA4-2700mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00A9KTPY8

http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHRAAI4-Imedion-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003LWMZ5M

How is the stock one that I just bought here? I tend to leave mine charging over night. Is that bad with this charger?

Yes, they're rechargeable. I think I bought four AA batteries and the charger for 1.5k PHP years ago. Looks like it's a set of eight batteries and a charger on Amazon now. http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-Eneloop-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003VLAEPQ/

EDIT: This is what I got -> http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/

You should be able to buy it at camera stores. They're the only places I saw carrying eneloop batteries in Manila.

http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-Eneloop-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/sim/B003VLAEPQ/2

Problem solved

The CR2032 battery cost $3 and will solve your issue. 5 pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_iECVtb1776S0KC6Z

2032's are actually seven cents cheaper.

You can find replacement batteries for cartridge based games on amazon for like $2 This is what your looking for I had to replace a battery for a LOZ A link to the past.

Or use amazon.

cr2032 battery

Small screwdriver


You can probably find a better/cheaper screwdriver at a hardware store though.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC?th=1

It's the battery in your fob.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405558&sr=8-4&keywords=CR2032

Easy as hell to replace, takes about 15 seconds.

Any store that sells watch batteries I would imagine. CR2032 is the type you need.

Amazon has some too

http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418769548&sr=8-1&keywords=CR2032&pebp=1418769489161

Amazon or a local battery store. Here's an example. The battery in your motherboard should show the name of your specific battery etched onto the top, otherwise I'd check the manual of your mobo

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC you can buy one from here

So one last question - sorry! The refurbished mobo I bought will not come with a CMOS battery. Are these ones from Amazon fine to use with it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042A9UXC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A19DY5EK03NION&psc=1

Sounds like a battery issue. I usually keep a few extra in the grip of my rifle for when they start to go dim. They use the CR2032. I usually buy those in bulk because I have several scopes and red dots that use that same battery.

Amazon

Expensive? I think not
https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-CR2032-Lithium-Coin-Cell/dp/B008XBK7PG/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493110709&sr=8-6&keywords=cr2032

Cr 2032

Sony CR2032 Lithium Coin Cell 3V 20 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XBK7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-YEdzbM4N54Y1


Best bang for your buck.

Here is a video on how to change the batteries (CR-2032) for Arccos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tf11pNnXMB4

Also a link for 20 pack of Sony CR2032 batteries for $9 bucks

How do you define expensive?I purchased this and with really heavy use throughout the year I've only gone through 2 batteries. That's less than $2 for a full years worth of batteries.

They are so cheap that whenever I find a friend who owns a go plus, I just give them 2 batteries. 2 batteries should last a year for 95% of people and cost pennies.

I bought these last year. They seem quite legit, good power output, and still running in the devices I put them in last year.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XBK7PG

This and perhaps [this] (https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486594451&sr=8-1&keywords=18+ah+battery) for away from vehicle play.

Might not be AS portable but hey, saved ya $250. :)

Battery I use here. Mine was about $10.00 cheaper when I bought it three years ago.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Electric-209DN-600-Watt-Switch/dp/B001EVKA8G

I'd recommend this over the motion sensor, as those typically don't work as well as they seem. all you would need it this, a sufficient sized battery, your led lights, and some extra wires

Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1457475167&sr=8-6&keywords=12+v+battery
This battery would be good, just make sure the battery doesn't discharge too much, or they will become acid filled paper weights

ExpertPower EXP12180 12 Volt 18 Ah Rechargeable Battery with Nuts and Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KZptybMN92M0G

It takes two of these. SUPER easy to do. I just did two of them this week
Hit me up with any questions.

A bass port is the same as a vented enclosure. the 4.5khz crossover will work. D class amps are industry standard for any sound amplification work. Literally everywhere where power, volume, or price is an issue, people use D class. T class aren't as powerful, and AB aren't efficient enough for battery operation.

As far as a battery, this one has 18ah way more than you need but should allow you to run it for quite some time. Or you could go with the 7ah version it won't last as long but it is smaller, and it is about 1/4 of the weight. Any 12V power supply will work to charge it as long as you put a power switch somewhere between the battery and the amp when you wire it. If you are not comfortable/don't have the tools to splice the power cable correctly, don't do it. Blowing up gear, possibly causing fires, and/or electrical shock is not worth it. It's really easy to do, but if you screw it up, it can be disastrous.

I'm actually intrigued to see how this turns out, on paper it should have an output comparable to that of a commercial loudspeaker in a much smaller package, with the added bonus of being battery powered.

Here are 10 batteries for 4.25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FO9HQLS

Read the reviews on the 2tone packaging and youll see people complaining of dead batteries, i bought a new one lasted about 3 months using it every day

NEW with full color packaging:

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032BP-4-Volt-Lithium-Battery/dp/B00D8P5T0U/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1487963355&sr=8-3&keywords=energizer+cr2032

OLD with 2 color packaging:

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Lithium-Battery-Original-Packaging/dp/B00FO9HQLS/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1487963355&sr=8-4&keywords=energizer+cr2032

Buy these:

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Lithium-Battery-Original-Packaging/dp/B00FO9HQLS/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1505759229&sr=1-5&keywords=2032

2 MROs, an RMR and an Aimpoint all going continuously for 3 years with no issues. I just recently replaced them all "Just in Case" not because any of them failed.

ETA: Wll technically the MROs haven't been going for 3 years, only about 2 years each. They were both left on setting 3.

ez

Thanks for the detailed answer.

I can't see the one you recommended on Amazon.ES, I've found either a 1900 mAh or a2500 mAh one

Would you say these batteries would also work with Retroflag GPI case?

Panasonic Eneloop Pro AA 2500mAh Eneloop NiMH Ready to Use Rechargeable Battery BK 3HCDE/4BE (4 Eneloop Pro Batteries) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JWC40JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_ezv4CbYD2Z5XV

Thanks BuBubbi, shipping costs on top of cost would end up being more. Just had a look on the UK amazon site, do you think these would be alright https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-Eneloop-Rechargeable-4BE-Batteries-Black/dp/B00JWC40JY

These are the later version of the ones I have, either these or the normal white eneloops are probably the best ones to go for. Lots of reviews to look at.

Thanks to all who replied!

So it got me thinking about how to do it.
I was hoping it would be simpler -- "Buy motor, CAD up some connectors, wire it up, write simple code, go". ( Even that is too complicated, IMHO... )

So, what I've decided to do is make a simpler robot that is closer to what I imagine in difficulty, then scale up.


Here's my BOM so far:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N3XZSTY
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/202488241409
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/111715988116
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8E0WAG/
  
  I figure I'll make a more toy version first to see problems, then begin searching for a way to scale up. My initial hope is just to be able to haul the battery around on grass so I get a better sense of the problems I need to solve.
  
  Thanks!

It's only 50 watts. Assume 60 watts therefore 5 amps. For 3 hours, you need a 15 amp-hour battery. Double that for safety and buy 30 amp-hours or more.

When you buy it, post pictures of the power adapter and the label on it and I'll tell you more. A 100 watt or greater inverter should be fine, but there are other options.

This http://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG

might be more than enough. I'd try Walmart for one. Get Deep Cycle.

I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.

Or

You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.

$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah

$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan

$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already

$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.

$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket

$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on

$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115896&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80w+folding+solar&dpPl=1&dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115963&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&dpPl=1&dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&dpPl=1&dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need

Im looking at this guy right here: ExpertPower EXP12200 12 Volt 20 Ah Rechargeable Battery With Threaded Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KC39BE6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_p5xJxbKETAZ92 (I don't know how to format links for reddit off the top of my head on mobile)

I added one of these batteries and am running them in parallel with the original. It will fit in the front truck with a little trimming. Also had to run new wires. Combined with the original battery (or even alone), it runs for days as the linked battery is almost twice the capacity as the original. Also is a bit faster as there is less voltage drop. People also recommend a better charger.

If you do get one, don't run it with the old worn out battery. It will drain the new one faster. If you wanted to run two, you could buy another oem replacement battery as the one I linked will not fit in the rear trunk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467239757&sr=8-1&keywords=aaaa+battery

couple bucks to ship - or find a friend with prime - and you'll have a lifetime supply for less than the price of 2 at the source :)

hahaha! Awesome.

Well, here's some options, AAAA's aren't too expensive from....Amazon of all places?! http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS 8x for $4.50 - $5.30 isn't horrible. If you want to buy my Dell Venue 8 Pro it'll come with 6x free AAAA batteries! lol

Also! Fun fact, some 9V batteries also use a series of AAAA batteries to hit 9v (6x of them).

If you don't mind Energizer, they're not that expensive. Otherwise I guess Amazon makes batteries now and if you don't mind the price you can go with Duracell

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdl_x_JOPhyb94MAS9Y

And Amazon wins...

Yep. There are plenty of battery sizes out there nobody ever uses. 9 volt batteries are actually a bank of AAAA cells sometimes.

for solar ventilation i use
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N5L2GM9/ref=twister_B01DEE9AMM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

with 2 of these
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this fan
https://smile.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485406650&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+fan

The batteries are AGM(https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518147239&sr=1-3&keywords=100ah+deep+cycle+battery) and the controller is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ZBODDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The solar is completely separate from the vans electricity so that wont be an issue. The charge controller and the inverter both display the voltage but I also have a multimeter I can double check with. I set the battery type but I don't see any option for setting the AH. I assumed it wouldn't need to know the AH since it would just turn off once the voltage was high enough. I have the PV off set to 13.7.

This is what I use, 100Ah https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuLHxbJYEQCWX

Get a sealed deep cycle battery. No maintenance and worry free.

I don't power much. Pump for sink, roof fan, lights, and my electronics so 100 was enough for me. I would say 150 should do the trick and might be too much but you'll need to calculate all that to be sure.

These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.

Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.

Or 1200 watts for $180 or $0.14 per watt. Its slightly larger and you can use cheap chargers on it. Lithium maybe the future but the price point is too high for most unless what you're doing is really minimal.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493771440&sr=8-1&keywords=100+battery+deep

What are you going to run at 120V? That is not minimal. Using an cell phone battery is great for charging cell phones, not much else.

Yes, just a day sailor.

I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.

This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV2AVS

And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

Y que tal estas baterías?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C&ved=2ahUKEwja76SzjYXiAhVyTt8KHcoGBt4QFjAAegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw1u9QKt1uQYFQ4Lq4Jcd4MN

Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged

For example, this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.

Add a 100w solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ if you expect sunny weather during your power outages

Yes! Two of these: Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If I had enough space I'd get more. When I upgrade to a van I'll probably switch to lithium batteries.

I think this was what guy here recommended for battery
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S1RT58C&pd_rd_r=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV&pd_rd_w=oGJXw&pd_rd_wg=atYQq&psc=1&refRID=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV

Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN.MDbTQK4FCC

KRIËGER 1100 Watt 12V Power Inverter Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Included, Automotive Back Up Power Supply For Blenders, Vacuums, Power Tools MET Approved According to UL and CSA. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T564EIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8O.MDbT2DB8FY

Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (New Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bTBZDb1FFV9EY

EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07429RK43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LTBZDbQ4VNMAZ

Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUBZDbEKFZ000

The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..

You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.

Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.

OR BUY A GENERATOR

I found this site, http://amsolar.com, to have a lot of good product options and a whole of info for learning about solar in RVS or in our case vans.

For cheap batteries I was going with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_9?colid=1TNL6GP91VEH0&coliid=I38YJA2080NKGR
Since it is 12V you don't have to stay even in numbers.

As far as solar don't forget your van has an alternator that charges batteries.How much it will charge depends on how much you drive daily, the size of the alternator, and the load demand from you vans accessories on it. Just make sure to get a battery isolator. This may lessen the amount of solar you need.

I'm open to suggestions, but I don't know of any new options that can beat them in that category. Used can be cheaper of course.

My normal recommendation is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C these guys, which blow lithium out of the water watt per dollar, and the walmart batteries are even cheaper. I don't normally recommend them because they're unsealed, which is a pain, and includes the risk of destroying it early by forgetting about maintenance, but they are the same capacity for $70 less.

Lithium lasts longer than lead acid (7-10 years vs 3-5), and you can safely use 80% of the nominal capacity without damaging their lifespan instead of just 50% of it for lead acid, but the price difference is still too high to make it worth it.

Since lithium gives you 1.6x the usable capacity (80/50), and lasts twice as long, that results in a price premium factor of 2.6. Aka, a 100 amp hour lithium battery is worth 2.6x the price of a 100ah lead-acid battery. Or, saying that differently, you would have to buy 2.6 100 amp hour lead-acid batteries to get the same capacity over their lifespan as you would get from one 100 amp hour lithium battery over it's lifespan. Lasts 2x as long, and provides .6x more power for the same nominal capacity.

With that said, the lithium equivalent to that walmart battery would be a $260 100ah LiFePo4 battery.

Renogy sells a 100 amp hour LiFePo4 for $899. The cheapest sketchy ebay one I can find is $500 after shipping. Lead acid still rules for capacity by price, by far. Unless, of course, you have a better source than I do

Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.


Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C

Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years

THESE are the batteries I have.

Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.

Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488126321&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+solar+battery AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?

Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?

Do you think

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496172956&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v+105ah+agm+battery

Two of these ? It looks like the battery I have i couldn't say for sure though

You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.

It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.

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I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

I'm using these, but I have no clue how they'd compare to any other battery.

Eveready 1212 (aaa carbon zinc super heavy duty, 4 pack, 9 bucks) are typically 7.4 grams.

The Energizer L92 (aaa lithium battery, 4 pack, 9 bucks) has a typical weight of 7.6g, and here's an 8 pack for 12 bucks. The L91 (aa battery) weighs 14.5 grams.

^(It also keeps going and going and going and ...)

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I8II22/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1376521564&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Looks like you didn't quite read your own link... 10 bucks for a single battery. Now let's have a little comparison.

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00339NINQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1376521711&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

Four batteries plus the charger? For four more dollars? And doesn't require a USB cable or a wall adapter or Playstation 3 to charge?

Yeah that's substantially cheaper.

I'll do you a favor, I looked it up and found the same battery for five bucks total. Not bad.

However, you can get four Energizer batteries for a little over 10 dollars anywhere they sell batteries.

So each battery is half of what the Playstation 3 one is. Like I said, substantially cheaper.

>I fail to see your point sorry..... Oh and here is a little present:

>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sRT4h_YMQ4

>If you consider that hard to do, then your intelligence is really lacking and there's truly no other reason to continue this discussion.

I said it was more difficult, not that it was impossible to do. You're not refuting anything.

Also, you do realize this voids the warranty. Good luck getting a replacement if you try this.

>
I'm sorry you are stuck with tons of devices which operate on your precious AA's, I only have my TV remote and Direct TV controller that use such trinkets.

Once again, this refutes nothing about what I said.

>Sorry for the bad grammar I'm on my Iphone which uses one of those proprietary non-removable batteries which make life easier, maybe they should make a phone which uses AA's so you don't have to look for charger!

I'm on a phone too... It's not difficult to have proper spelling and grammar.

For some reason, you really, really want it to sound like these built in batts are some massive innovation but they're really not. It uses the exact same tech to make the Energizer ones and they're nearly identical when it comes down to the performance.

What exactly makes these built in batteries so amazing? What can they do that AA's can't? Just answer that and maybe you'll have a leg to stand on in this little debate. Because so far all you've given me is, "It plugs in to the console!" Big whoop, that's not really a big deal.

I like this one, it’s very light and I just bring extra batteries.

Light Headlamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I02VQQG/

Long lasting lightweight lithium batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071D87WPV?

Favorite all-around: https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1

Keychain favorite: https://www.batteryjunction.com/titanium-keylight.html#reviews

2nd favorite keychain: https://www.batteryjunction.com/inmi2wigrblb.html