I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

Most car wash detergents will work fine unless it expressly stated that it is meant as a pre wax treatment.


Personally I use this: Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash and Wax - 48 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0

It has a waxy compound in it, so it adds additional protection.... And it smells great.

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

​

Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt

1. Rub the rubbing compound using pad. Scrub!
   
2. Wipe clean
   
3. Rub the polish compound using pad. Scrub!
   
4. Wipe clean
   
   Don't use too much product.
   Too much will make it to slippery.
   
   Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
   
   
   
   $20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   Post a before
   and after picture

There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.

Maxima Chain Wax

Amazon - $14

RevZilla - $11.50

Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.

Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?

You'll need the proper equipment. Hopefully you already have a buffer and compound?

PM me and we can dig into the details, if you aren't familiar with the polishing process.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag

/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text

Somebody nicked your door with something red. Not a big deal. You should be able to buff it out with a cleaner wax and a wax applicator.

>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash

Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.

>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.

Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.

>Rinse car with water

Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc

>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?

With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.

>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/

The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.


The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)

The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon

I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.

If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845


Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.


Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.

If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ

And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

As a professional auto detailer, this is what I do to keep the bike looking spiffy with minimal risk of swirling the paint.

First, I use a pressure washer on my bike, it's a 2000 psi washer so no real risk of damage to anything and works great for getting those bugs out of the radiator and tiny little crevices as well as a good majority of the dirt which is just less to grind into the paint when you finally hit it with the ONR (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797720&sr=1-1&keywords=onr). A hose would work also, just not as effective. (If you have the money, go buy yourself a foam cannon with some chemical guys honey dew soap and save yourself some time)

Then I grab 2 buckets with Grit Guards in each. (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797070&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard) and fill one with ONR and the other is a rinse bucket. The washing part is pretty simple. Buy yourself a microfiber wash mitt, dip it in the bucket with ONR and scrub an area of the bike down. Rinse it off and the rinse bucket and repeat until the bike is clean. Pro tip: Do your paint first and other areas that can be easily swirled and work your way to the dirtier areas on the bottom of the bike that are more likely to have the mitt pick up dirt.

I dry the bike with a leaf blower dedicated to detailing (basically one that has never been used in reverse to suck leaves up) to get all the hard to reach places dry. You can also use a standard microfiber drying towel for this.

Once it is dry, I'll hit the chrome with a chrome polish and put a coat of wax on (collinite 845 is my go to, but any mequiers wax is plenty good) and hit the mirrors and headlight with some glass cleaner.

If you have a chain, put some wax on that bad boy since you most likely just washed it all off. I don't put any kind of vinyl or leather protection on the seat because shit is always slippery. I know wheels look nice when they are nice and shinny, but you will eat shit if you put on any kind of wheel shine.

Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.

Brass turns out looking like brand new!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

great looking pens.

​

for sanding insides: wet or dry sandpaper, water, 320 grit up to 1200 grit, lots of time to stand there and sand b/c it's BORING work, and one of these-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Slotted-Mandrel-1-4-Shank-Body-Split-End-Head-Core-Sanding-Internal-Holes-/221323367298

​

and after that a paper towel instead of sandpaper, and plastic polish. Some of us use headlight polisher from the auto parts stores. I like the heavy cut meguiars, and then a light cut meguiars.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vnNMDb8YZZX2C

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11


Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

No problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502586791&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+wax

Easy to use. Just get the applicator pad a little wet, dab a little wax onto it, and apply it to the entire screen (just dont go into the microphone or speaker holes). Then give it a few minutes so it hazes over and dries, and then buff it out with a cloth. I usually did two or three coats but one is normally good. And it helps cover up very minor scratches too.

A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.

As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.

Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.

Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.

Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.

Wash: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Hyper-Wash-Foaming-Leaves-D11001/dp/B0006SH4IM

Clay: https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G

Decontamination: https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html

DA: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

Polish: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Compound: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004104678/ref=twister_B00NN89SGI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Coating and Sealant: https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-uk-edition.html

You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.

I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).

1. Rub a small amount on the board (do only a quarter of the board at a time otherwise the wax will harden on the surface in patches while you do other sections).
   
2. Use a buffing/microfiber cloth to spread the wax evenly in circles. The surface will become a little cloudy.
   
3. Important: after the whole board is waxed wait at least 20 minutes for the wax to cure.
   
4. Use a different side of the cloth to buff the wax off. Note that this whole process seems to work best in hotter temperatures.
   
   Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
   
   I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

Only my second time doing it, so I'm no expert.

I bought the Mequires clay kit.

Washed the car thoroughly.

Dried with a chamois.

Started with the roof because it's the hardest part, it had tree sap and would require additional work, and I'm putting a roof rack on soon.

You want to do this in the shade for many reasons, but the biggest reason is you want the panels cool so the spray solution stays on the panel longer. It's a lubricant of sorts so the clay slides easier.

Work the clay over the entire panel, spraying more solution as needed. I recommend doing small sections at a time.

Periodically wipe the section down with the supplied microfiber cloth and inspect your work. You should feel an obvious difference between a clayed area and an untouched area.

Once you've completed the job, apply wax so the paint is protected. I have always used carnauba paste waxes so I stuck with Meguiar's Gold Class. Paste is more difficult to apply but I feel I get better application than liquid.

I also mask off the edges of the plastic and trim because wax is a PITA to remove from them. And I can be a little sloppy with the application.

I'll try and get some before and after close-up pictures when I do another panel.

I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.

There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.

I don't have a stake in this game. I do think it's interesting that the company directly refutes your assertion:

WD-40 and Bikes

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is
formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients,
and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does
not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to
wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle
maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically
for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care
products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike
mechanics for decades.

I also think it's weird that after saying it's fine to use on bike chains, assuming you wipe off excess, they've got something that's specifically designed for bikes - which either was marketed because it's actually better for bicycling purposes, or was released due to bike shops instructing people not to use it for this purpose.

Personally, I prefer wax-based chain products on my (motor)bike. If wax-based isn't handy, multi-use teflon'll do.

There are guys that use WD-40 on their motorcycle chains exclusively, and swear by it.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

certainly.

1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG
   
   
2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.
   
   
3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish
   
   
4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax
   
   
5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny
   
   
6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray
   
   also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
   

I use Meguiar's gold class. Any Caranuba wax is high quality, but that is the one I prefer and have found to be a very good price point.

Waxing is relatively straightforward. You will need a lot of soft shammy towels to buff the wax in and remove excess. It'll say on the can something similar to this: take the pad inside the wax can and buff the wax into the car in circular motions. Take a shammy towel and buff the wax using the same circular motions and removing excess. Flip to the dry side of the shammy towel and wipe the remaining excess away. Do that one small section at a time (for instance, I do one door at a time, or half of the hood).

Happy waxing! It'll make the car like you've never seen it before.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah for sure! I got a headlight kit from amazon, the chemical guys silk shine spray and a spray bottle with dish soap and water. I also had a 24-pack of large microfiber cloths that I fully expected to throw away, and we chucked maybe 12 of them. They were CAKED with dirt. Haha.

Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!

I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.

I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.

I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!

Rain X, always

A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss

A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU

A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber

Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.



Maintenance:

Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.

Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.

Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.

Rhino ramps to drive up on.

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax

I used this, and not much else... BUT, it did take two goings over to make it look that blue.

I wouldn’t use the bottle, use the pure paste wax. This is the one some builders recommend. I didn’t realize it was that expensive:

Mothers 05550 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Paste (Ultimate Wax System, Step 3) - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t6Q3DbSNQ7CHK

I went cheaper; picked up Johnson paste wax for wood at Home Depot. I was 25% the cost. I’m unsure how much better mothers would be over this. This wax did make a big difference in play after a single application. Do the pucks and board.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-1-lb-Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-00203/100154748

Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover has worked very well for me.

Every other Turtle Wax product I've used has been terrible but this one is actually pretty good

I don't know if it's "The Best Way", but after peeling the sticker from my car with the hair dryer trick I used some Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover to remove the glue residue and it was very effective.

As an aside, I haven't tried it yet for anything else.

I used a lithium silicate sealer and carnauba based wax. I think it's a more durable, longer lasting finishing system than anything oil based. Oil also darkens the colors. The sealer and wax won't change final color.

​

Sealer:

https://concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/FishLithiumGal

​

Wax:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=carnauba+wax&qid=1565364222&s=gateway&sr=8-29

Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2tZTAbNVCW14X

SC1?? - I use this stuff too.

Wash the bike so it's spotless, then spray it down with Maxima SC1. It'll shine and smell amazing, no way she could possibly object.

New bike in a can

I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.

My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.

The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.

If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).

Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.

Yep. Meguiar's quik wax. There's like two different versions and I don't know what makes them different from each other but I guess they're more or less the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNS2/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B00P9OF00C

Spray, let it sit a moment, wipe it around the areas you regularly wax, done.

I cannot speak for how long this spray wax lasts compared to actual wax, but for me it's been very effective as a complete novice to car detailing and cosmetic maintenance.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K

and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y

Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

1. Buy a gallon of water from your grocery store, bring a bucket, ONR, and the softest towels you own and you can do an ONR wash in the parking lot.
   
2. I think your LSP should be a wax and a detail spray. I LOVE Meguiar's D156. It adds a nice slickness to the paint, smells like fresh laundry, and is great for that finished look. If you want to save money its the same thing as Meguiar's Quik spray wax, just the professional version.
   
3. Oh boy! If you're going to track your car friday and then enter it to the clean car on saturday, you're going to need a full wash. Is your car a dark or light color? that will determine the direction to go.

2017 EX-L hatchback

Mods: XenonDepot 5000k HIDs, HIC visors, Smoked side markers, Chrome exhaust finishers, LED interior lighting, OEM splash guards

Edited: For anyone curious, I tried using this waterless wash and wax for the first time. Not too shabby for quick in-between wash sessions. Just be liberal with the solution and use plenty of microfibers.

This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.

First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.

When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.

After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.

Go to the autoparts store and buy this stuff called buffing compound. It will be in he section where they sell the car wax. Use it and it will get rid of that film.

Here it is on Amazon:

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ze3hzbJHNS5B3

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V7R7BbFT6WKYB this will change your life as it did mine

I also used car guys hybrid wax sealant

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

I think I understand what you're trying to ask. My suggestion is to get Meguiar's cleaner wax http://amzn.to/21qSmhK . I'm assuming you're a novice in detailing. This product is perfect for that maintenance job of just lightly polishing the surface.

This is the exact wax I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O

You just want to make sure and get pure carnauba wax. Nothing with cleaners or abrasive elements in it.

random orbital machines dont really speed up the process very much.

There are 3 kinds of machines for polishing:

• Random Orbital. Weakest action but also pretty harmless.
  
• Dual Action (combines a small orbital action with medium speed rotations) - Best for beginners
  
• Rotary - fastest and most aggressive. Easy to burn through a finish.
  
  I have used a 10 inch random orbital like the HF one and it was way too slow to accomplish what you need.
  
  By the way you dont need 3 more coats of wax. As mentioned what you need is a good polish.
  
  Polishing and older car will take time but you need a medium cut cleaner, a lighter cut swirl remover, and then a fine cut mirror finisher.
  
  I use the meguiars range of products like this:
  http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Professional-Glaze-liquid/dp/B0002UQAM0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1371516134&sr=8-18&keywords=maguires+polish
  
  Also lots of tutorials and information on youtube on the autogeek channel. they also have an online store although a lot of the stuff they sell is expensive.
  
  If your car is this old and you go to this much trouble, you might look into headlight polishing too. Also glass sometimes needs a good polish.
  
  and for what its worth I just apply wax by hand.

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

Are you talking about this? If so, that's completely nonabrasive.

wouldn't bother applying that. If you just did a full correction you should just need to apply a final layer of wax/sealant to really achieve that last 10% of the look. A glaze doesn't serve much purpose at your stage.

• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
  
• Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
  
• Simple green (for the wheels)
  
  Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
  
  Hope this helps!

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

I always keep some bug and tar cleaner w/ a microfiber towel in the trunk for inevitable bird poop. Does a pretty good job of removal even if it has been on there for a couple days.

Recommended http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII

Is this the wax you use?

Exact same deal on my red NA. Had a car bra on for who knows how long, though mine is more of an even fade than this kinda splotchy deal.

I've heard Zymol works wonders restoring red Miata paint. I just ordered some today and I'm going to try it out in the next few days. I can let ya know how it goes.

Luckily the original paint is a single stage enamel so apparently you can buff the shit out of it to bring it back to life. So if Zymol doesn't work, a good detailing shop can probably get it looking great again without having to repaint.

I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510849021&sr=1-1&keywords=nu+finish&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


But whatever you have is probably fine. I don't care for spray on, if you over-spray and get it on the floor, you are going to slip and hurt yourself. Wipe it on, let it sit for a bit, wipe excess off.

When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC

Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.

Planning to wash and wax my wife's car this weekend. My plan is to use Meg'sUltimate as the wax. I've used NuFinish forEVER.

Would/Could/Should I apply NuFinish and then Meg's?


Edit: spelling

I have never heard of any place that details bikes. Hose it down with a liberal amount of this(Muc-Off works well too), wait, rinse it off , dry the bike and then use this stuff everywhere except the seat and grips. Your bike will look brand new and it will only take like 20 minutes. That's probably all a shop is going to do.

DON'T USE A PRESSURE WASHER!!!!

But before you clean your bike, go ahead and clean and lube your chain FIRST. Then, give the bike a quick spin for a few miles. That way any excess chain lube doesn't splatter all over your fresh detail job.

Wait for your bike to cool down (20-30 minutes on a 70 degree day)

Then just get a bucket of soapy water, and a sponge or clean soft rag and wipe your bike down. You can pretty much use that for every surface, but start with the painted bits, then move to things like the engine and wheels. After that I usually just wipe it down with another clean rag and some fresh clean water. Then I dry the bike with a chamois. After that I use a product called SC1 to give it that show room sparkle. Follow the directions on the can. It's pretty much just spray the crap all over and let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off with a soft clean dry rag.

It's a lot more involved than going to the drive through car wash, but your baby is worth it!

Just a lightweight silicone oil, probably easiest to use a spray polish. Gives a good wet-look sheen, non-volatile, doesn't rub off too easily. This stuff is good and cheap if you don't mind the new-car smell: https://amzn.to/2Nj13I6 Alternatively, this gives a wet shine to latex or plastics: https://amzn.to/2ICKWV6

I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.

Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.

I do this after every bike wash.

Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.

Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TZ1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RPERDbGJEH1W8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TZ1RU?pc_redir=1404538634&robot_redir=1

It's pretty much the same stuff as Ultimate Quick Wax, just in bulk packaging.

I'm a fan. I don't really think it's the best but it's very good and inexpensive. Optimum spray wax is very good as well, but it's pricier.

I use Blackfire spray wax, only because I got it in their full paint correction kit, but I bet Meguiars will have one. Its pretty unanimous that Meguiars has good products for the home detailer. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2

Hmm yea those soaps dont seem to be wax stripping.

You can do the ceramic coating yourself for $100 if you have the time, its fairly easy to do just have to follow the instructions. I myself am about to do a coating in preparation for the Northern winter.
A lot of people use C2V3 or CQuartz as their go to.

Thanks for the reply!

Is the D156 the same as this product from meguiars? Have you used that one? I only ask because I've seen that one readily available on the shelf of my local autozone, meaning I wouldn't have to wait days for it to ship before I got to try it out

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00353PWAW?pc_redir=1398242581&robot_redir=1

I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.

I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.

My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.

I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.

Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.

Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.

If you go thru lots of ultimate quick wax, buy Megs Xpress Spray Wax by the gallon. Way cheaper, same product.

MEGUIAR'S D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax, 128. Fluid_Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HTbtDbSMXDYET

X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed


https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/

It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.

Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.

One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2

If you mean a spray wax, check out D156 by Meguiar's. Solid spray wax that smells really good, and can be used on the paint and any plastic trim. Not exactly sure what the durability is like, though.

Also if you want it for a bit of a discount, I (and others on here) have a wholesale account with Detailed Image.

This right here. But I go crazy and do 2 coats of Power Lock and 2 coats of 845. And I hit the whole car with D156 after each wash as well.

It's exactly what it sounds like. It's a spray where you simply wipe a dirty car off with a clean microfiber. No extra water needed. You can do your whole car with it if you wanted. I've done it a few times before in a pinch (I wouldn't recommend it on a real dirty car).

Meguiars sells a waterless wash that you can find in most auto parts stores or even walmart for about $10 a bottle. It's this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS

I don't know where you can wash your bike in that area, but I wanted to say that you might consider a waterless bike wash.

For example, this is a car product that works wonderfully on bikes. You just need to have a few clean rags or a supply of absorbent paper towels:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Waterless-Wash/dp/B006FUT0CS

Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.

A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.

http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462805403&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

Personally, I'd be too lazy to take on the job of stripping the clear coat or varnish of an aluminum frame, and then having to polish it. Instead I'd just use auto products like a liquid cleaner/wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid-Protects/dp/B0002NYE5M/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=meguiars+cleaner+wax&qid=1557325079&s=automotive&sr=1-7

It cleans off most crap, hides fine scratches, and overall does an awesome job of making bikes finishes look newer.

which speed wax do people prefer? meguirs or lucas


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT5JVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYE5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

hey! sorry for the crazy long delay in responding. lost access at work, and since i do IT, i just never feel like sitting down at home.

I have a hilinski board. bought it early last year. he recommended pure carnuba, so i picked up a can of the mothers carnuba wax (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O)

i generally put on a coat, wait 15 or so min then wipe it off. i have a feeling i'm applying it too heavy, but i don't know, it just never slides right. John said yours were crazy fast, and thats obviously what i want.

next week, right?

You should use some pure carnauba wax on the boards. Most people recommend Mothers. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483199201&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+pure+carnauba+wax

I got my board from Muzzies, and Murray suggested that I use https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6. It's a blend, and he finds it works best on his surface.

No. That's a Cleaner Wax. You want the wax without the cleaner. It says Step 3 on the car and has a blue band on it. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=asc_df_B0002U2V1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312279483767&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14297052339886462749&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006600&hvtargid=pla-422424326058&psc=1

The glaze I use is very easy to apply. You literally just put it onto a microfiber cloth or something, rub it on the car, and then rub it off, then wax. Very simple and definitely worth the results if you have a dark car. And it doesn't leave any white spots like wax does if you miss a spot. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

This is the stuff I used. Picked it up at Harbor Freight when I went to get the orbital buffer. It is supposed to be a polish/wax replacement but I'm not sure what it really is (i.e. wax, glaze, polish). Worked amazing though.

Mirror Glaze 7 with a wool buffing pad after you wash it clean

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

don't let the buffer sit in one place or buff dry

you might need to follow up with swirl remover polish because its black

and don't try to get every last scratch out like others are saying you can burn through the clear

I use meguirs nxt tech wax 2.0 and turtle wax and dry in between applications

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0

Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.

The community here will tell you to throw that Turtle Wax in the trash and get something else. People seem to like this stuff for an OTC product, although I've never personally used it. Make sure you're doing your best to get everything off the paint\clear coat before you apply a wax. This means a nanoskin wash or clay bar. Personally I'd go with Collinite 845 or another sealant type. General rule of applying a wax is to work in lines, not circles (this helps reduce swirl marks). Let it dry to a haze and buff with a high pile MF towel that you precondition with a little spray wax\quick detailer to add some lubrication. Smile as you run your finger across that smooth finish and crack open a cold one :)

I use Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax. It's what I've used since ~2003.

Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather

Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0

Dash protectant, I use 303.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant

Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.

Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.

After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.

Can't help too much on restoration.

For basic cleaning stuff, you can pick up somethings like this:

Stoner's Glass Cleaner

Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo

Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner

You can dilute D101 for different ratios and use it full strength as a degreaser and lower strengths for interior work.

Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 is a popular wax, but I like Collinte 845 more.

Depending on how bad your wheels are, Sonax or IronX if your wheels are bad, D101 if they are Ok.


Check out this thread as well: The Bare Minimum Supplies List

I own these 2 waxes/sealants, which would be better for winter?

NXT 2.0 Tech Wax

Duragloss 105

You can use either of these I just use the meguiars gold class because I got Collinite and didn't know what to do with the leftover carnauba wax



Rain-X Glass Treatment Trigger - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbHxbVN12JFV


Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTbHxbZGBRHHM

Polishing sheets
www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oJMttb14VTZ9R

Simichrome
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_jKMttb1EX6ENW

Renaissance Wax Polish 65ml
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RKMttb1YM5YXC

arnauba Wax
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NMMttb1MPHYVW

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Class-Carnauba-Premium-Paste/dp/B0009IQXCM?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I've had really good experiences with this compared to turtle wax and mothers. haven't really tried anything else!

I use Meguairs Gold Class

???

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=psdc_15718371_t3_B0009IQX6I

I just looked it up since I'm not familiar with it. I much prefer the paste type wax than liquid spray. The Car Guys Hybrid Wax description shows it's safe for windows too. A real wax should never be put on windows. If it's safe for windows, then it's not really a good barrier since it can be wiped off too easy and the protection layer is extremely thin.

Try using a real paste wax. I've personally used either Mothers or Meguires paste wax with great results. Stay away from combo pastes (cleaner wax). If your car needs a good cleaning (paint is rough when you touch it), use a clay bar before waxing.

Very basic question, but has anybody ever compared the two most common paste waxes?

Mother's California Gold Carnauba vs. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus

I'm going to use the Mother's first, but I don't feel like buying the other until I totally use up the first can.

Looks like bird shit. Try some bug and tar remover with a microfiber cloth.

I used this and followed the directions on the bottle of leaving it on for one minute.

I'll look for the remover you linked soon and hope that works, and if not, I'll try a clay bar. Thanks for your help!

You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.

Ugh, WD40? Guess you hate your paint. You should be using a bug and tar remover that's safe for car paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII

This is a must have. Every car I've debadged looks perfect after using just a little bit of this.

Thanks!! I dont do anything special really. Just a good hand wash with a soft mit, then dry it, and then a good coat of wax. I did, however, just buy this and this was my first time using it and it is awesome. Really brought out the shine! buffer and since i needed a liquid wax, this is what I got and it worked awesome! wax

For the inside, just vacuumed and cleaned all the windows and your normal dash cleaning stuff.

All in all, I think just keeping up with cleaning it worked best in keeping it looking good. In the winter I made sure to spray it off every week or so to remove any salt.

Hope this helps!!

I bought and used the Zymol recently and was rather pleased. I haven't put anything on after that yet though.

I have used the car wash, it does a good job. Sometimes you need to add a little more than they rec if its got stuck on stuff. The wax is amazing in my opinion.

It also cleans as it goes and it smells great. I have the quick detailer for spot cleaning but I find it to be a bit of a pain top wipe off evenly.

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

5.95 for a can. Turtle Wax is soo generous.

>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.

Yep.

I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.

I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.

Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.

yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1408709206&sr=1-1&keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.

Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.

Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.

Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.

Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.

EDIT: Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Nu+Finish&dpPl=1&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&ref=plSrch

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

After you get it as clean as possible, spray it with detailing spray, it works wonders. This stuff; Maxima SC1

I store 8 bikes in mine. Never a problem. Though if you'd like to keep it looking clean, I can't recommend this enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Silicone-Spray-12oz/dp/B000WK5PWQ

Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.

Try some chain wax spray, that stuff sticks to the chain very nicely.

Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....

I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.

Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.


List of everything I used:

• Lusso Auto Bathe: Not much suds but pretty good lubricity. I wouldn't use it again. I have filtered water so the water it self feels slippery.
  
  
• Meguiars Wheel\Tire Cleaner: Used for chain/wheels/tires. Really great cheap cleaner for wheels and tires.
  
  
• EZ Detail Brush: The blue brush in the video isn't sold anymore but this is still good.
  
  
• Boar's Hair Detailing Brush: Pretty good brush. Its a hit or miss on quailty. 1 of 3 that I have just keeps dropping fibers.
  
  
• Chenille Wash Mitt: Standard wash mitt works great.
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate: Amazing waterless wash. Great for drying as well.
  
  
• Double Mist Trigger Sprayer: Nothing special. Fun to play with.
  
  
• CarPro HydrO2: Works great 3 to 4 months of protection.
  
  
• Ryobi 40-Volt Blower: Great for yard work not so much blowing water. Get a corded blower mine was in the truck didn't feel like getting it out.
  
  
• Maxima Chain Wax: Works great but I would recommend DuPont Teflon Chain Wax Last longer. Just using up the last of the Maxima Chain Wax.
  
  
• Grunge Brush: Cleans the chain really well. Cleans 3 sides at a time means less work.
  
  Think thats everything. Enjoy!!

If you're too lazy to even buy the Meguiar's ultimate wax, you can skip the liquid application using a foam pad and try Meguiar's ultimate quik wax. It probably wont give as great as a result as the normal liquid wax but you can apply it quickly with a MF towel.

Popping back in here, I use this stuff for wax: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2

Where does that fall in terms of longevity?

I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for the longest time. Can be found on Amazon, or at Target/Walmart. Basically, anywhere that sells car accessories/parts.

Do note that spray waxes are best applied often. They do not last anywhere near as long as traditional waxes/sealants do. The main advantage is that spray waxes are quick and easy to apply and can be done in minutes, rather than an hour (or more).

Alternatively, consider waterless wax + wax solutions. Can help you keep your car clean in between your regular washes. Especially helps to keep your front bumper and hood clean from debris you accumulate daily.

I've used Meguiar's Quik Wax on my car and even after washing it a couple times, water still beads up a bit. The bit of shine benefit is gone, and the beading isn't as strong as fresh (still WAY better than none). But it's clearly beading after a few months.

If the products are related, it's probably worth trying out.

I've been using Chemical Guys' Silk Shine Dressing for tires, rubber, and plastic. It works rather well IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q

First off thanks redditors for the input. The reason I wanted the wet look is because I put armor all on my dash one time (which I was told after is bad for it, so I ceased using it) and I liked how it looked alot haha. What does everyone think about The Chemical Guys Silk Shine Sprayable Dressing?

I also liked the meguiars product line and I think I will check out those wipes they have to keep in the trunk.

Yes, this

As said I wouldn't let it drip dry and streak. Also would never use actual rub-on wax.

Paint might look a little more flat with using only windex, but it definitely doesn't leave it shiny or anything. And it does a way better job.

> What kind of soap should I use?

Any regular cheapo car wash soap. DON'T use the wash + wax products though they're pretty much shit.

> Is Armour All a good choice for the dash?

No, it's a crappy product. In my experience using a bit of warm water and a dedicated vinyl cleaner have worked well.

> What should I use on the wheels?

A separate car wash mitt and separate soapy bucket from your body washing bucket.

> Should I just use old towels to dry, or is there something better?

No, go to autozone and stock up on towels, and get a couple paper bags to separate the towels by function. Only use your drying towel for drying, your waxing towel for waxing, glass towel, and interior towels. Do not mix these up, you wouldn't want to wipe wax or vinyl cleaner all over your windshield.

> Is it safe to use my power washer (electric) on my car, or is it too strong?

Mostly likely too strong. I know guys who peeled paint on their bumper doing it.

> Are there any techniques for making the wash faster/easier/better?

Just keep up with regular cleaning maintenance and it will be easier. Do the full cycle of wash, clay, and wax your car about twice a year, and it will be easier on you every time.

Is it ok to use this shampoo on my car's windows?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0

Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.

If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).

Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B0002UQAM0

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

I was looking at this stuff but I have no idea if it'll work for this type of damage.

How many passes do you do per section with your random orbital?

In my situation, I've got a car with spiderweb swirls on the paint. They cover a lot of paint but are very light scratches; they can only be seen in direct sunlight.

I have used these following products on my swirls but it seems that they did absolutely nothing to the paint or the scratches.
meguiar's buffing pad
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UQAXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
meguiar's m105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMGDHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i07
Do you have different suggestions for products or am I most likely using incorrect technique?

If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181

If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M

Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.

I used Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4. And thanks for the positive thoughts!

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?
   
   The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
   
   ​
   
   

2. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?
   
   Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
   
   ​
   
   
3. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?
   
   I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
   
   ​
   
   Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
   Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
   
   ​
   
   Thank you for any and all feedback!

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

I use Meguiar's Ultimate Wax

Reviews are good:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=pd_sim_auto_16

Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/

These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.

-

Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/

This stuff will last a long time. great beading.

Meguiar's D156 is your friend, if you want to give it a little shine once it's clean. Spray a microfiber, wipe it on, then wipe it off. Works on plastic, black trim, everything.

I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.

Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.

For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.

Here it is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPJMI2?pc_redir=1398611072&robot_redir=1

Yes. It's the same stuff.

D156 is the "pro" version of the ultimate spray wax.

I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.

http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2

Definitely looking into this. Is the Pinnacle brand better than Meguiar's version? Pinnacle requires an additional shipping cost on Amazon, but Meguiar's doesn't, so I'm kind of leaning that way.

However, it looks like the Meguiar's doesn't have carnauba wax in it. Is that a big deal if I have the Quik Detailing Spray and the Quik Wax spray bottles? If it is a big enough deal, I don't mind shopping locally and getting the Pinnacle. I had some Amazon GCs, but I can spend that on something else down the road.

I literally bought a 36 pack of Amazon branded microfiber cloths that had good reviews, so I'll be looking into the rag company's products once I burn through the Amazon. Too late to send it back at this point without being killed on shipping, lol.

I use the wash and wax spray anywhere stuff, no need to wash every time you take her out. Works good when your in a rush. Otherwise Ill wash it down and give it a good hand wash with soap and water and use a leaf blower to dry. Heres a link to some of the spray I was talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Wash-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396018452&sr=8-1&keywords=car+wash+spray+no+water

LOL i had the same issue. Turns out that the back camera has a coating, which makes pictures all blurry. Get some polish and with a qtip clean the camera glass. Sadly i figured this out too late, i though the coating was more of a peel so i tried taking it out, turns out i was pulling the glass.

something like this

Oh i didn't realize there was a difference between polishing compound and rubbing compound. Would this work?

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_14OHDbVERDVNV

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

I use Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax. Take a bucket with two gallons of water, add a cap full of this stuff, soak 4-5 microfiber towels and wipe all the grime off. Fold each microfiber into quarters and flip through the sides once they get dirty. If its really dirty or has some caked on grime, I'll fill a spray bottle with a mixture of the stuff and pre-treat the area. Dry with a dry microfiber. Cleans great, leaves a nice layer of wax, and has high lubricity so there is a lower risk of swirling up your paint.

>Best seat covers?

Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.

>Best dash cams?

I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.

>Charging cable ok in weather?

I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.

>Battery efficiency on the highway?

I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.

>Toyota service centers only?

I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.

>Get that extended warranty or no?

I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.

>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?

I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.

Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax

Congratulation on the new car!

I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.

Edit: Typos.

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

Curious, is this that what you guys are talking about? I wrench on my own cars but I’m such a noob when it comes to detailing lol

Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxNWCb7PCWQ18

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U

Is that what your talking about? Sorry if I'm sounding dumb, i really don't know anything about this kind of stuff.

Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.

you are putting way too much or change chain lube. I am using chain wax (see here )

Also, I put the chain wax after a ride when the chain is hot. The lube penetrates deeper on the o-rings and on the plus side, you are always ready to ride next time.

My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.

As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.

I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.

First of all, lay off the racism. Second, that is spray paint. Try using cleaning wax and see if that takes it off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A1216-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid/dp/B0002NYE5M