I think these are slightly cheaper on Amazon ($23.85):

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK

3d printable frunk fan stl file
I used tinkercad to mod the original file, (it took hours to do) it’s designed to suck air out of the headset using a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan
The heat isn’t that bad but after a hour of playing it starts getting pretty warm, the fan should be really quiet and the lens cover will still go on to keep the appearance of a stock headset (I might have to add 4 small 3x3mm magnets to keep the cove gap big enough for airflow)

Edit
I’m still waiting on the 5 volt noctua fan from Amazon, it should be here In 2 days I will update this post with temperature improvements and overall review.

Edit
I got the noctua 5v fan installed and it works good, I can hear it running when I’m on steamvr home and there’s no background noise but in game I can’t hear it at all.
The airflow is very gentle, I can only feel it on my eyeballs if I open them fully and lift the bottom of the hmd to increase the gap around my big nose.
The hmd stays cooler, I feel like I can play for extended periods of time easily.

Edit
I just played blades and sorcery for 40 minutes it still got hot and sweaty in the hmd, I’m hot sure if 2 fans would be better or just dry out your eyes? Maybe the best option is still a room fan, shorts, and no shirt lol

I can't help but feel that the sp120 are a bad buy. The corsair ecosystem is expensive, and if you're going to invest into it (looks amazing), you might as well go ml120 or ll120 over the sp120. If you don't have a foothold in the ecosystem, I would recommend taking a look at these. 5 fans for $40 and plays nicer with other rgb components.

In the words of so many here, "Jesus Fucking Christ" is the first thing I have to say! It's so awesome to see everyone pumped up over the build. If I had known there would be so many comments, I'd have posted the pictures with some context, but I'll try and answer your questions now.

Are you posting more pictures?

Definitely! As soon as I get stuck into the meat of the build (this weekend maybe?) I'll take a few snaps during the build and the final result.

What are you going to do with this thing?

Play Minecraft on the lowest resolution possible with the particle effects and clouds turned off of course!

But seriously, there are several use cases intended for this rig, some personal, some work related:

• Multi-platform virtualized workstation (KVM, Windows & Linux guest OSes, PCI Passthrough, SLI configurations adjusted as needed)
  
• Game development (that's what I do for a living, not saying who I work for though!)
  
• Virtual reality game development / HMD gaming (all the cool PCMR kids will be doing it soon enough)
  
• Static lightmap rendering (3DS Max)
  
• Monitor Gaming (Minecraft in glorious 320x240, smooth lighting disabled)
  
• Keeping me company during the long winter nights
  
  Why four Titan X cards? Give 980 Ti some love!
  
  Originally I considered two Titan X cards and two 980 Ti cards for this build, but that idea was discarded for a few reasons and considerations, some more logical than others:
  
  
• In the event of the KVM workstation setup going horribly wrong, being able to fallback to a 4-way Titan X system running a single host OS would at least give me some use of all the cards.
  
• Is 6GB VRAM going to be sufficient 2 or 3 years down the line? I'm not so sure. 12GB of VRAM puts my mind at ease for a build that I intend to still be using 4 or 5 years from now with minimal upgrades.
  
• Purchasing four Titan X cards is equivalent to purchasing 5 980 Ti cards, which in the grand scheme of things, is not an insane premium to pay to build out a system with current generation top of the line hardware.
  
• I would have been buying watercooling equipment designed for the Titan X regardless of what I chose.
  
  
  For those asking about PALIT branded cards, they offer a reference design card for Titan X, which is fine, because most other vendors do the same. I will of course be dismantling the cards to add waterblocks to them, and possibly doing other crazy, potentially warranty-voiding overclocky things to them.
  
  That Sandisk Ultra II..it's so peasantly compared to the 950 Pro.
  
  I should have mentioned that I also have a 1TB 840 Evo that I'll be bringing over from my current workstation, which has a fairly negligible performance benefit over an 850 Evo and Pro in a practical setting.
  
  The Ultra II was a Cyber Monday deal, much cheaper than an 850 Evo or Pro for reasonable performance and storage capacity, and more than enough for infrequent secondary storage.
  
  De-ionized water, why not distilled?
  
  I didn't list it in the pictures because it hasn't arrived yet, but I am expecting a delivery of distilled water tomorrow for filling the loop. The de-ionized water will be used to flush water blocks and radiators as it is a cheaper source of purified water to obtain here in the UK (unlike distilled water, which stores don't stock like in the US).
  
  Biocide, coolant, anti-corrosives?
  
  I have decided to start with distilled water and a couple of drops of Mayham's Biocide (a copper sulphate concentrate), and keep a close eye on the loop for the first few months to see how it works out, and introduce corrosion inhibitors if needed. I am fortunate that my loop mostly consists of copper, with brass and nickel plated/brass fittings, so at this point, my main concern would only be the tin/lead solder inside the radiators as being a potential corrosion hazard.
  
  If anyone has information on corrosion inhibitor bases that can be added to water that don't contain a glycol mixture and dyes, and that are designed to protect copper/nickel/brass/tin/lead, I'd love to hear from you!
  
  You better have awes-mazing monitors for that rig!
  
  Baby steps...it has been five years since I built my last workstation, and everything will eventually have to be replaced, which includes five 21.5" 1080p 60Hz monitors. Replacing those is a financially crippling research project in itself, but for now, the tower is the first replacement to be dealt with.
  
  Are you going to trick this thing out with LEDs, chrome rims and a sexy lady lounging over the case?
  
  No, the tower isn't really all that visible in practice as it would be sitting behind a monitor (and not repositionable as the whole desk is covered in monitors!), so I did not intend on going crazy with lights, colored tubing and platinum case trim, instead directing the budget towards more practical components.
  
  How much did the rig cost to build?
  
  I'd better leave the number crunching to my rich daddy and his solid gold, diamond encrusted calculator.
  
  Parts list, I demand it!
  
  Component | Product Name | Quantity | Product Info URL
  ---|---|----|----
  Motherboard | Asus X99-E WS | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/X99-E-WS-Workstation-Motherboard-Capacitors/dp/B00NJGJJE0
  Processor | Intel Core i7 5960X | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Extreme-Processor-Socket-2011-V3/dp/B00N1O4RRY
  Graphics Card | Palit NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X | 4 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Palit-Graphics-DisplayPort-Dual-link-PCI-Express/dp/B00UXOGCP0
  Case | Phanteks Enthoo Primo | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-ES813P_BL-Enthoo-Primo-Tower/dp/B00EB0A6FE
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B00MGPJHPQ
  Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64 GB (8x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK64GX4M8A2400C14-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B00PLERJ7M
  SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960GB | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ultra-Sata-2-5-inch-Internal/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
  SSD | Samsung 840 EVO 1TB (From Previous Build) | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5-inch-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W16OU
  CPU Waterblock | EK-Supremacy EVO – Acetal | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-acetal
  GPU Waterblock | Titan X/GTX 980Ti Copper Acetal Water Cooling Block EKWB | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal
  GPU Backplate | Black Aluminum TITAN X/980Ti Water Block Retention Backplate | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-backplate-black
  GPU Bridge | EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel - Titan READY | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel
  Tubing | TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm (1 meter) | 3 | https://shop.ekwb.com/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-9-5-15-9-mm-crystal-clear
  Compression Fitting | EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm | 20 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black
  90 Degree Fitting | EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 | 6 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black
  Ball Valve Fitting | EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black
  Pump Top | Alphacool HF D5 TOP - Black Acetal | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-HF-D5-TOP-mounting/dp/B00L5J1YIC
  Reservoir | Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-Repack-cooling-pressure-monitor/dp/B007ENAVCI
  Pump | Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-VPP655-PWM-Single-cooling/dp/B00LLR40OI
  Radiator | Alphacool 35281 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 480 | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-480mm/dp/B007P05Y18
  Radiator | Alphacool 35279 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 240 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Copper-240mm/dp/B007P05XUU
  Radiator Fans | Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition (Dual Pack) | 5 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-SP120-Quiet-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2
  Fan Controller | Phobya PWM 8 x 4Pin Fan Splitter | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phobya-PWM-8x-4Pin-Splitter/dp/B00OD7MO6E
  Biocide | Mayhems Biocide 10ml | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayhems-Solutions-Ltd-Biocide-10ml/dp/B007WDOKAE
  
  If you made it this far through the rambling, thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more pictures, and keep on being glorious!

Probably this fan

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V8s0DbQ5N8HRH

I couldn't either. That rgb software they have is pretty dope. iCue I think it's called? Lots of neat things you can do with that. But then you're suckered into buying more Corsair shit to be compatible. So no thanks. Deepcool has my approval and my money.

Just a reminder that DeepCool's 5 pack of RGB 120mm PWM fans dropped back down to $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8

Better reviews, nicer lighting, less noise complaints. The only con being that it's not compatible with older/commodity motherboards (RGB header vs USB)

GitHub link w/files: https://github.com/MadlyFX/Index-Fan-Mount

A360 link: https://a360.co/2L61Gbc

Shapeways links for stone age people without 3D printers:

http://shpws.me/Rkx3

http://shpws.me/Rkx8

http://shpws.me/Rkx9

Index-Fan-Mount

3D printable files for a dual fan bracket for the front of the Valve Index

Design Notes:

This is built upon the Valve provided 3D model of the visor and is intended to provide a way to cool the headset and/or the user. No electronics are provided, however wiring of the fans is trivial and plenty of internal space is provided.

The fans slip into the slots on the top of the bracket and are retained by internal tabs. Optional caps, which are separate files, can be snapped onto the top to cover the gap to improve looks. The bracket itself utilizes the same locating pins of the stock visor, which means magnets must be used.

This was designed around the Noctua 40mm fans, which have rubber bumpers and are a little bit thiccer than standard 40mmx10mm fans. As such, if you use stock fans, you may find them to be a bit loose. Nothing a little double sided foam tape can't fix!

Finally, this does violate the Sensor Inclusion Zone of the Index, which means it could theoretically affect tracking performance. A photo showing this is in the root of this directory.

Printing Notes:

I would not recommend printing this using ABS, or any warp-prone filament. The locating pins of the Index are very small and very distant from each other, which means even a small amount of part warp will throw off the alignment. PLA or PETG would be my recommendation here. Of course, if it does warp, that double sided foam tape can save you once again.

This has a flat bottom and is designed to be printed "upright." It will still require supports, however none on visible surfaces.

BOM

You will need to print one of each file.

These are the recommended fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.JGiDbBDF39J2

Use 1/8"x1/8" axially magnetized cylinder magnets, such as K&J #D22-N52.

Heres my build: http://imgur.com/gallery/cOxXC
I marked the airflow direction in red, as well as the hidden alternative front fan locations.

• Ryzen 1700 oced to 3.8GHz
  
• Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240mm
  
• Asus GTX 960 Directcu ii
  
• 5 Pack 120mm Arctic F12
  
• Phanteks fan controller
  
  The fan controller lets the non-PWM fans be controlled by PWM from the CPU Fan header. It's whisper quiet - the fans never go above medium throttle (1100 RPM) at full load and usually stay at 800 RPM even when gaming. CPU temps stay under 75C and the GPU stays under 70C when running AIDA64. This case could definitely handle the temps from 4.0GHz just fine but I'm tweaking the ram timings right now.
  
  I removed the GPU shroud as it was blocking air from the bottom intake fans to the rest of the case. It also shortened the card from 300mm to 280mm, which allowed me to put the AIO fans in a push setup. Otherwise with the GPU shroud on and the AIO fans in pull setup, CPU and GPU temps would go as high as 83C and 80C respectively.
  
  Those Arctic fans are no slouch. I ran Noctua's in my previous build but couldn't stand the colors. After researching for a bit, I decided to give the Arctic fans a shot. They may be cheap but they move a ton of air and are FAR more quieter than the Cooler Master AIO fans.

Same price on Amazon right now as well.

EDIT: Heres the link if it helps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8I474/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s-iYBb93KSHKP

Basically a generic fan. You could do better buying the arctic f12 pwm 5 pack for a bit more, you get better acoustics and PWM functionality.

Also, pick up a couple of 120mm case fans for better airflow and cooling

Corsair Air Series AF120 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fan Twin Pack - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mXUIDbZ52HTGS

link. looks like it's up a few bucks since i ordered for $8.99 on mar 7 but i'm pretty sure i saw it somewhere else too. newegg? idk.

edit: yeah found it here, originally.

the smallest I know off the top of my head is the bitty-baby 40mm

It's actually one of the 8 pieces from the noctua fan. Mine fell off too.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/

If it's a big issue. Get a couple PC USB fans. Put them behind the Xbox to push the hot air out of that space.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xtDQub1NZ6DK4

NF-P14S Redux. It's about $18.95 on Amazon.ca with similar performance characteristics minus the extra accessories, SSO2 bearing (SSO bearing instead) and fancy packaging.

Hey bud. I'm not in the growing business but I know a thing or two about PC fans.

Stacking fans increases the "static pressure" (with huge efficiency costs) which will only increase total air flow if there is high resistance to the air flow. It is the same thing as torque in an engine. We sometimes use this for thick radiators but otherwise it is a redundant idea.

Typically you are much better off upgrading the fan. There is a huge difference between different fans. Given your build context, I would recommend purchasing Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM IP67 fan.

Reasons:

1. Responds to voltage so lower voltage means slower speed - allowing you to control the airflow in your case.
   
   
2. High capacity - up to 269 cubic metres of air moved per hour.
   
   
3. High reliability in moist or humid conditions (such as your bucket) - 6 year warranty.
   
   
4. Quiet - one of the quietest fans commercially available and the most efficient in terms of noise/airflow.
   
   
5. Power efficient - triple phase motor design so that down-stepping the voltage will result in significant power savings.
   
   
6. Anti-vibration rubber mounts.
   
   
7. There's more, these are simply the best fans going around. They also come in a 120mm size if that is what you require. The smaller size produces less airflow than the 140mm ones I have recommended, however, they are otherwise practically identical.
   
   Edit: In response to common PM's - To vary the voltage (and thus fan speed and therfore the rate of airflow) you should purchase a fan controller which start at $10.

I use this silverstone fan hub and just have my motherboard control the fans. Its even slim enough to stick between the back of the motherboard and rear panel on my S340. Most OEMs also have software that allows more fan control than what the BIOS can do.

I have a Kraken x62 and I've installed and messed around with CAM, but it is a terrible piece of software even compared to something like Corsair LINK. The default pump behavior works well enough so I don't even use CAM anymore.

I highly recommend this one: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bv1jhxoFNGKWr

here are some links guys

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nfa14+chromax&qid=1557892056&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q4Y16V/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Halos&qid=1557892102&s=electronics&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBA_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q56LFS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Halos+120mm&qid=1557892144&s=electronics&sr=1-3

this is the fan

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

the fan comes with crimps so you can cut the existing fan in the psu and crimp all 3 cables with the noctua fan.

Mine had a noisy fan out of the box so I just took it apart and replaced the fan with a nice noctua the same day This one

If you don't need LED's, the two pack plain ones are $31

They have been cheaper though and it's the one I usually get.

*Noctua: HMB




Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 120mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WzN-AbDHK7WNT


Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZAN-AbKDPJBST


Noctua NF-S12A PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 120mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07657VBQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBN-Ab4FCS0XW

This heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZRDRX8M/
With this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/

Honestly?

https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK/

Paired with https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984012

They're decent fans (quiet, move air, but they're not HOLYSHITTHEBEST), and the white will reflect the RGB from the halos. Plus it's all controllable via Asus/MSI/Gigabyte/Asrock's RGB control on the motherboard (or via a Phanteks' case).

Difference between P series (the fans posted) and F series, which are $1 cheaper:

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/p-fan-faq/

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

May not be the best or cheapest but you can Daisy chain em or just use the remaining USB port to power other things

I've got a couple of these mounted to the top, guiding hot air up and out of the rack. They are always-on and powered by the 360's rear USB port. There are some vents on the bottom and sides as well.

You can use fan splitters which are probably easiest, there are cheaper ones available as well they just don't look as pretty. Splitters simply split the power and PWM signal to multiple fans off the same header.

You can also use fan hubs which are like splitters in that they split the PWM signal, but often they will have a separate power input so that it can handle a larger number of fans. The one that I linked can handle 8 PWM fans

Lastly the simplest but not necessarily ideal solution is to use a straight molex to fan cable, which runs whatever fan is plugged in at full speed off the power supply.

again, all the options I've linked to are just good examples of what I'm talking about, there are cheaper options available with minor differences.

Was in the same situation as you and just bought 3 of these from Amazon. Should be delivered today, and should be easy peasy to install.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At that price range I'd recommend Noctuas, like one of these. They are quieter and have more static pressure. 6 year warranty vs. corsair's 2 year. These particular fans work well as both case fans and radiator fans.

4-pin PWM: https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G

3-pin: https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-1200-Bearing-Fan/dp/B00KHRGWLM

There is also a 900rpm version of the 3-pin. For the PWM just get the fastest one since you can easily change the RPM to whatever.

? They do have other colors this is just one example. https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A

I just built a living room PC in the black version of this case, it's everything I hoped it would be.

Fit my micro ATX board with a double fan 1050ti and a Cryorig tower cooler on the CPU. The double chamber design leaves plenty of room for cables in the back, and it can fit up to 3 HDD's and 3 SSD's in the tool free slots.

I'd say the only real downsides are the plastic window(not as clear as tempered glass, has a blueish tint and scratches easily), overall the metal seems kind of thin and bendable, and no real soundproofing. Stock fans(3pin) are loud at full speed, I used a fan controller to run all the fans at around 30%, and they're pretty quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

These guys are great, 5 for $35 and solid performance/silence ratio

https://www.amazon.ca/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PST-Technology/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538965274&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arctic+120&dpPl=1&dpID=41nYsIDvFIL&ref=plSrch

40mm, the onboard APUs on my mini itx HTPC's have these on the heatsink.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3681#ov

I actually replaced them with the 40mm Noctua fans.

Replace it.

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I use one of these hubs in my ITX build (more for cable management than necessity). It uses SATA power which is handy.

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

• 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.
  
  
• 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.
  
  Additional parts I used:
  
  
• An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!
  
  
• Power splitters: One & Two
  
  
• Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  
• Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS
  
  More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das

A Gelid CA-PWM-02 PWM Fan Adapter and a Rosewill PWM Fan Splitter Cable. After that, it's smooth sailing.

EDIT: This might be obvious, but make sure you get PWM fans too.

here are some links guys

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nfa14+chromax&qid=1557892056&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q4Y16V/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Halos&qid=1557892102&s=electronics&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBA_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q56LFS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Halos+120mm&qid=1557892144&s=electronics&sr=1-3

You could do this + this. If you've only got 2 fans, then the one you linked + the power supply I linked would work.

Corsair ML series fans are stupid quiet and move great air.

I have 5 in my case (2@140, 3@120).. case sits on my desk and is very quiet.

> Despite being a bad time to build a PC

Be brave! It's a GREAT time to build a PC! It's just a really crappy time to pay for the parts. Good luck, you'll have a blast.

Order a set of these. Gotta be the number one annoyance when building. Maybe one of these too. They're cheap and handy.

Hitachi's drive business (HGST) is now owned by Western Digital, and yet HGST drives still substantially outperform WD for reliability and cost less. That's gotta be awkward at the company Christmas party.

The 860 EVO is a newer model SSD than the 850 EVO. Longer life, etc., and costs a bit less. If you're lazy like me, get the M.2 version rather then the 2.5" so it mounts directly to the motherboard rather than having to muck round running power/sata to the drive.

Good choice on getting the full version of Windows rather than the OEM version. The potential headaches aren't worth the $30 difference.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $333.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $147.32 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | EVGA - Z370 FTW ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.06 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $196.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi - HGST Ultra 8TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $317.89 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $515.00 @ Newegg Marketplace
Case | NZXT - H700i ATX Mid Tower Case | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic - PRIME Titanium 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply |-
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit | $119.00 @ Newegg Business
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2157.24
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-19 15:17 EDT-0400 |

Here's what I meant about the NH-D15 Chromax fans possibly being proprietary:

NH-D15 Chromax: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654B9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ye3Cb4XNEG1S

Case fan Chromax: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kze3CbSH2VPCN

If you have the fans in the top link, they'll 100% work on an NH-D15. As for the bottom ones, I don't know. You might have to do some Googling.

Buy this instead, put them in an H500 and they work great, super quiet and I can control them through the BIOS software on my Auros B450

DEEPCOOL RF120M 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB PWM Fans with 2 Fan Hubs, Compatible with ASUS Aura Sync, Controlled by Motherboard with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, No Wired Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oyUADbJ95487E

can I just switch the fan on my 212 evo with this noctua fan or any other 120mm noctua fans?

edit: follow up question, is it gonna be noticeably quieter ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ARS4FK5114M5WF08CRWK this is probably going to be a better all around fan. Slightly more airflow, quieter, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing.

My motherboard only has one system fan header, but I have two system fans. Would I be able to use something like this to safely use both case fans that come with my corsair 350d? I have this motherboard. I can't find the amp values for the case fans, and don't want to fry/melt the on board fan header from the initial power draw.

Just ever so slightly over your budget, but it got all shipping costs included and no mail-in rebates.

Just to quickly point out a couple of things:

• The Xeon E3-1231V3 is basically an i7-4790 with slightly lower clock speeds & no on-board graphics. For a much cheaper price.
  
• The R9-380 is going to absolutely destroy most games you throw at it and will play it at 60 FPS without much trouble.
  
• I went overkill on the PSU, I simply couldn't get a solid high quality PSU for less that was more than 500W.
  
  I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
  I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $252.98 @ Newegg
  Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $51.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Storage | Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card | $194.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $87.98 @ Newegg
  Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
  Other| Fan splitter| $4.00 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
  | Total | $806.89
  | Generated by Kiwiandapple |
  
  ---
  
  

  Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!
  

  
  ---
  
  

• What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.
  
  
• What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32
  
• What is the difference between i7 & Xeon?: Here - 7:10 ◄ Important!
  
• What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47 ◄ Important!
  
• What is Turbo boost?: Here - 4:05 ◄ Important!
  
• CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
  
• GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
  
• How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18
  
• How many cores do I need for prosuming?: Here - 7:53
  
• DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
  
• What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  
• Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  
• Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  
• SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
  
• What is resolution?: Here - 5:22
  
• Different panel types: Here - 2:29
  
• Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
  
• What is Free-sync?: Here - 5:29
  
• Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  
• Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  
• What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
  
• Raid 0, 1 & 10: Here - 3:11
  
• What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
  
• What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02
  
  Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Guides
  

  
  ---
  
  Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
  
  

• How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
  There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
  
  
• How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  
• How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
  
• How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  
• How to set up your SSD & HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
  
• How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

Whoops. here ya go.

Are the speakers not better off straight? Looks clean though. Nice start.

If you're worried about heat on your avr grab these and set them on top or even in the back then set them someone on middle power:

Check this out at Amazon.com - AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These things were designed to run 24x7 with no additional cooling and I've honestly never even considered this except when orienting the monitor in a way that blocks the vents, like in TATE mode on some monitors. Not to sound like a jerk, but how can you say installing a fan is the best way to preserve a monitor without knowing if anyone has ever done it?
 
That being said, if I wanted to do this, I would probably attach a USB-powered fan or two (like these) to one ventilated side of the case and plug them directly into wall power with a USB power adapter because I don't like the idea of adding additional load to a PVM power supply that wasn't designed for it. Assuming the monitor had vents on top, I'd probably mount it up there using zip-ties through the holes and use it as an exhaust fan to pull warm air out.

They get a bit warm. I just added a few fans to aid the circulation a bit in the cabinet. No issues.

Mate, I don't know what you're playing at here, but this isn't fooling anyone. Your timestamped photo (https://imgur.com/NaNE1cd) is definitely NOT a NF-S12A, its not brown and beige in color and the fan blades are completely different (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-s12a-pwm). I'm virtually certain its not a noctua at all, it looks like these generic rosewill 120mm fans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_00cIDb8S8WXQF

These fans are pretty good.

Basically positive and negative pressure means is more air entering or leaving the case, and the best solution varies case to case, but fans in the front as intake, and fans in the back as exhaust are a tried and true impossible to fuck up solution to airflow.

Hi space bucket folks.

Here is my bucket build. I at the stage of testing the temp and humidity. Next steps are to tack down the wiring and power supply, buy a cabinet to stash the bucket in...and then start growing!

Here are the parts I bought off amazon:

LED:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MY5VY2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UFO:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INM0BPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power adapters and mylar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WW40Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KB8CB9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(shout out to /u/mcscroggins for posting his build. I referred to it while building. And thanks to other posters in this sub for posting pics of their builds for ideas and such).

For those wanting a cheaper Noctua option with a different colour check out the NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM for $19.

Note there are no accessories and the fan cable is somewhat short, this also uses the older SSO bearing instead of newer SSO2 in the A-14 PWM, but it doesn't make much difference to the general user.

Would say for air flow 3,

Would get 2 of these for the front

Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1500 RPM (140mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_18RZDbC6Z7K7R

And replace the 120mm in back with this

Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1200 RPM (120mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7PPY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AeSZDb4QPKB8Z

Look for the highest cfm fan that you can fit on your bucket. It will force circulate more air than your basic computer fan. More air flow = more evap = cooler. I went with this guy as an upgrade from last year, and it was quite the beast though my water pump gave out, which sucked. The fan worked as an amazing air circulator, so it wasn't all for naught. You could also bump up to the 14mm fan if you really want a bump up in performance and are okay with making some minor tweaks to your cooler bucket top

You can also try to have a fan direct on your cooler and another that you can aim attached to the output tube so that you can push the air in the direction that you would like.

The Dreamcast's fan is just loud. I replaced mine with a quiet noctua fan, like shown here: https://youtu.be/eOP3ZDUX7Y8?t=964

​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dreamcast-Noctua-Fan-Mod-Kit-Fan-not-included/273555906598?hash=item3fb133e026:m:mUxo_Y-G4mG5Ye6q1-BeifA:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542691138&sr=8-1&keywords=B00NEMGCIA

Believe http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ is basically what you want, connects it to a PWM slot on your motherboard, then it gets from power from a SATA connector. It will then replicate the voltage to the fans on the splitter, and use one of them for the RPM reading

splitters

https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

I'd recommend 2 more fans - ideally you want 2 intake fans and 1 exhaust fan to prevent dust buildup inside your case, especially since the filter on the front means 1 exhaust 1 intake will probably be insufficient for this. If you want to match the design and color scheme I suggest Corsair SP120 LED fans, just put these two in the front intake and have the existing fan in the back. You might need a fan splitter to power them though since you only have two slots on your Mobo.

Are you looking for static pressure or airflow optimized fans? These fans are pretty good for static pressure or airflow optimized

I just went to store and confirm, it is $14.99 for two fans. Bought 3 packs. This is in general price, you can get them online as well.

Blue: http://www.microcenter.com/product/423763/Air_Series_AF120_LED_Blue_Quiet_Edition_Case_Fan_Twin_Pack

Red: http://www.microcenter.com/product/423765/Air_Series_AF120_LED_Red_Quiet_Edition_Twin_Pack

Choose between Blue or Red. Mind that $14.99 is normal price for one of these fan and I never seen them go below $10/fan.

Edit: White on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S13DE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.

I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.

This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.

Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A

For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.

So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.

Fans:

1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.

1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.

2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.

You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)


Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483058552&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silverstone+pwm+fan+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&ref=plSrch

Just my two cents (items listed in the same order as your PCPP list):

• CPU - Current gen, I wouldn't upgrade until DDR5-based platforms are out.
  
• CPU Cooler - Same cooler here, and solid for a mild OC. No room in this case for the larger dual-fan tower coolers, so if you decide to OC further, might need to go with an AIO. Problem is, this case only officially supports 240mm (280mm will fit, unofficially). A 240mm will be LOUD for a higher OC, so you're basically stuck with what you've got (not necessarily a bad thing).
  
• Mobo - Upgrade with CPU when the time comes.
  
• Memory - Same.
  
• Storage - Only you can decide when your storage needs increase.
  
• Video Card - I also have a GTX 1060. When the 11/20 series comes out, I'm going to upgrade. I'd advise the same for you. I would strongly advise holding out rather than getting a 1070/1080 series GPU.
  
• Case - Keep
  
• Power Supply - While the H200i supports full ATX PSUs, the fact that they clog the basement means that the front GPU fan becomes air starved. You may not have an issue given the type of cooler on your GPU (horizontal fin array, single block), see my DM for more details. If GPU temps do bother you at all though, consider an SFX PSU. The Corsair SF450/600 are the gold standard here and the only real option today. For your current setup, even the 450 is overkill. And you're never going SLI in that case. My 7700k/1060 6GB combines for < 200W while gaming. Go with the 450 if you go this route (again, only if GPU temps are a concern, otherwise, keep what you've got).
  
• Operating System - Switch to Linux...j/k :)
  
• Case Fan(s) - I'm using Noctua Chromax for my H200i. [2x NF-A14] (https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) (front intake), and [2x NF-S12A] (https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07657VBQQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) (top/rear exhaust). Great airflow, deathly silent. Consider these if your current fans are louder than you'd like. And no, these aren't the poop brown ones. All black, with red corner pieces (or other colors) to match your case.
  
• Monitor - My recommendations are either the ViewSonic XG2703-GS (27", 1440p, AHVA, 144-165hz, G-Sync) if you prefer 16:9, or Alienware AW3418DW (34", 3440x1440, IPS, 100-120hz, G-Sync) if you want a higher quality LG IPS panel and a wider FOV at the expense of a lower refresh rate. And yes, the GTX 1060 can drive it, though you'll be running newer games at high @ 45-60fps or medium @ 75-100fps, as opposed to Ultra. The next GPU gen should address that concern for you, if it is one.
  
  Hope that's useful. Our builds are similar in many ways.

$15 plus shipping is a bit high for the noctua fans when they are $20 and free shipping on Amazon and come with all the accessories. Just my 2c. GLWS

Noctua NF-F12 PWM Cooling Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iuuTzbC8QFERD

So I'd do two things right off. Install some temperature monitoring software like hwmonitor or openhardwaremonitor (both are free and lightweight). Start it up, check your temps, then yank the fan (you can just disconnect the wire from the motherboard while it's running, no harm). Then watch the temperatures, preferably while you do audio stuff on the computer. It's entirely possible that the very loud fan is doing less for the temps than you think. It's also possible that that's not the fan making the noise.

If it is that fan and disconnecting it makes an unacceptable difference in temperature, Noctura makes very quiet 120mm fans for not a lot of money. Other common culprits would be GPU fans (almost always loud, and unnecessary in audio workstations) and sometimes CPU fans. If you're overclocking and the cpu fan is loud, go back to a stock clock and see if the fan gets quieter.

There's a lot to say about keeping PCs quiet, but that'd at least be a start. I'd definitely start with just yanking that fan and see what happens, might be you can get some peace and quiet for free.

If you want a quick and more expensive solution, check out Fractal Design cases. They're nicely soundproof with quiet fans and can be had fairly cheaply on sale.

Definitely the [Noctua NF-F12] (http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC) though mind the shitty color (pun intended)

Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0RkRDbZTW6395

You can buy NF-F12s for $22 on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC/

and NF-P12s for $16 on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P12-PWM-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006I6HMXI/

Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

These Cooler Masters are great on a budget. Very quiet and provide good air flow. They also come in a 140mm variation that I use as well. Great fans!

Try making a better light fixture with those lights, if you could get them all facing down towards the plant and in good spacing that would help a ton.

Get a piece of plywood or something to attach them to and hang it above the plants with these attached to the board with some eyelet screws.

Also using a few cheap pc fans would save a lot of room compared to that fan.

I just got this 4 pack of 120 mm fans and am waiting for it to get here. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8I474/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It was $12 when I bought and now is $15.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Edition-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414852734&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+sp+120mm+quiet

Exchange them. Airflow fans are just ineffective at what you are using them for. The fans I linked are the ones you want.

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

No problem, I'm glad that it helped. These are the fans I got by the way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!

Update for everyone:

• Watched this video on the Hero Me system.
  
  
• Watched this video on the Hero Me system.
  
  
• Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan.
  
  
• Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan with this quieter option (I don't need it to be quiet, so I'm not going to do it).
  
  
  Conclusion:
  
  
• I'll use the Hero Me system with this hot end fan guard.
  
  
• I'll replace the filament fan (I believe that I have my fan names correct) with the dual 5015 Hero Me setup using these 5015 fans. Here's a video I found that is basically a step-by-step guide for it.
  
  Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!
  
  /u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.

1. You could replace the fan with one of these but I have not done it so I am not sure if that will work out.
   
2. Z-motor stand-offs are a common upgrade for the folger tech, see my other post for links
   
3. gluing a heater PCB to glass is a bad idea as you are reducing the thermal transfer between the glass and the heating element plus PCBs can warp and glass can shatter. Instead I would ditch the glass all together and get an aluminum plate, once agian see my other post for links.
   
4. I recommend using a free standing spool holder and setting it behind and to the side of the printer and running the filament through the loop on the z motor, this works pretty well for me. I currently am using a storage box with some PVC pipe, 608ZZ bearings and some 8mm threaded rod sitting on top with the lid off, it works rather well for me right now.

I have a 28MP and I swapped the fans for Noctua ones which helped a lot. It was loud enough to hear through a closet door before I swapped them. I'm super-sensitive to fan noise, though. I'm sure a lot of people would be totally satisfied with the original fans.

This may not be very DIY, but I replaced all my fans with 40mm Noctuas. They are $14 on amazon. Quieter, and way better quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492304643&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+40mm

The majority of 1U switches on the market come equipped with standard 40mm single or double thickness fans. Although somewhat expensive, Noctura makes a killer alternative that kicks out 4.83 CFM at 17.9dba:

http://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-A-Series-Bearing-Premium-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

At the same price though, you can get two Sythe fans with slightly lower flow (4.11 CFM) but a tad quieter as well (14 dba):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LB0M8S

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bwI1DbD78N5KF

Comes with a 3 to 2 pin adapter with diode to prevent reverse polarity

For future reference when you have more money, I recently got one of these HBA cards this vendor and it works fine and was properly updated/flashed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-H310-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-LSI-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID-High-Air-Flow/162834671120

I use this for a cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/

And use this for cooling the heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/

+100 for the Noctua. :-) Whisper quiet & better airflow. 6 YEAR Warranty. Quality stuff.

For the Hotend, use a 40x10mm:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M

For the Parts fan, I upgraded to a Fang and used this 40x20mm:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333

Here's a pic of my setup:

https://imgur.com/dl26HJZ

This is the Fang cooler:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

And here's the front Cooling Duct - protects from sticking items in the fan blades, and speeds the airflow. Plus it looks cool! ;-)


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2514413

PuterPro

Check the fan blades, they tend to snap very easily, make sure one isn't wedged in there, if it is pry it out and get ready to change the fan eventually.

You can open the control box, unplug first from power etc, and see where the wire leads in from that bundle and if it's connected to the mainboard snugly.

Here's a diagram if you decide to go poking in the box.

http://i.imgur.com/JCtj6Gch.jpg

After that if the wires are all plugged and there's still no spin and no obstruction like a stuck blade you can get this if you'd like an easy install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It won't require a solder with that kit, just scissors and plyers, I've been using the new fan for about 2 months on my machine and no clogging issues from heat creep.

I got the Noctua 40x10mm
I have one on my Hot End already and it works great, keep the temp cool just fine.

I used these in my USG-PRO to great success.

How about this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

Or maybe this: https://www.nzxt.com/products/grid

Or even this: https://www.nzxt.com/product-overview/internal-usb-hub

Even more options: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |

PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.

Case Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-Tempered-Glass-Compact/dp/B01LA2LB7W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521906800&sr=8-2&keywords=460x%2Bcorsair&th=1

SSD Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521906876&sr=8-1&keywords=860+evo+1tb

With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.

If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.

Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.

M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.

The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521908068&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+hub Forgot about it :/

Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo

Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU

If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.

I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.

1. The water cooling fan header can be used for a case fan. I believe the pump fan header can too, but I'm not sure. Keep in mind that your motherboard may treat those headers as PWM controlled or DC voltage controlled, and you may have to change fan speed settings in the BIOS.
   
   
2. See 3.
   
   
3. See 2. Just kidding, see 4.
   
   
4. Easiest way would be to buy a fan splitter. Make sure that, if you have 4 pin PWM case fans, you get a 4 pin fan splitter. If you have a lot of fans, you can consider a fan hub. It can get power from your PSU via SATA or Molex, depending on the fan hub. Plus, if you get a PWM fan hub you can turn non-PWM fans into PWM fans, though all fans connected to the hub will run at the same speed.

You could use fan splitters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482862919&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fan+splitter

Or a fan hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482863008&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=fan+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&ref=plSrch

The twin pack of ML120 is $32 for those interested: https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/

Looks like those ML120 fans are $15 and change BNIB on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK

That's likely the RGB version. The regular ML120s are about £20 for two here in the UK.

These ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050040-WW-Pressure-Magnetic-Levitation/dp/B01G5I6MRK?th=1

Yeah you can get a fan splitter, which is what I'd do https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Splitter-Duplicator-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EQDE9ZFT6DTFWNPW06X3


As far as drivers, you want to download all the motherboard and chipset drivers, network, audio etc and the video card driver.


https://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Z270%20Killer%20SLIac/index.asp#Download


https://www.evga.com/support/download/


[First 5 Things to Do with a New PC Build] (https://youtu.be/LbpqkiaO7q4)

There sure are, look for fan splitters !

Invest into a PWM splitter, such as this https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Splitter-Duplicator-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01N0XQ7XC

You just need a fan splitter.

I got the H200 because I already had LED strips, didn't want to use CAM, and could just use $4 case fan splitter cables instead of NZXT's Grid/Hue+. I'd rather control my fans through BIOS anyways.

DEEPCOOL RF120M 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are the ones I got. Not addressable rgb but they move air really well and are affordable.

Says Asus aura sync but the ones that shipped works with Msi, gigabyte as well. There actually a fourth company that it works with, just don't remember right now off hand.

Are you pushing on the center of the fan where the bearings are to stop the noise? If so, then mounting it on top will give you the same issue if not worse, as the middle part that I assume you're "pushing back into place" would be facing down when exhausting air out the top, so gravity would be working against you. I guess it would still be worth a shot to try it in a different orientation, but I had that issue on one of the NZXT fans that came with my S340 Elite and it needed a replacement.

If you end up needing a replacement I would recommend checking out the Arctic F12/F14 fans if you just want something cheap and don't need dat RGB. They're better than stock Fractal case fans in both airflow and noise, MUCH better than the Coolermaster RGB fans that came on my AIO and if I remember correctly the NZXT fans I had on my S340 Elite were louder than the Fractals.

I was skeptical at first with the low price, but I had used one of the Arctic GPU coolers before and it was top notch, these were no different. There are definitely better performing fans like the Noctua's, but for a rear exhaust fan I don't think it's necessary to splurge. They make quiet, solid fans, and they're pretty much the cheapest out there.

If you do want to get some RGB bling in your case without breaking the bank I would check out the Deepcool RF120's. They cost a little more and noise levels on the Deepcools are close to the F12's, but they do move a little more air, at 56.5CFM vs 53 CFM with the F12's.

Both of these fans can be bought in packs with 4-pin fan splitters/hubs, and have a noise profile that doesn't "stand out" which is the most important thing IMO. Moving air is always going to make some noise but what you want to avoid is fans that have a strange pitch or a distinct buzzing, clicking, whirring etc that stands out.

A pair of Noctua 140mm redux fans will be nearly the same price at $18.95 each:

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540968293&sr=8-5&keywords=noctua+140mm

The pwm version is backordered until the 24th but you can purchase it for the same price.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00KF7PPY4/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Edit: There seems to be a few other models on sale. The names are links to Noctua's site so you can see the specs. The prices link to amazon.

140mm

NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM - $14.95($7 Off)

NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM - $14.95($7 Off)

92mm

NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - $10.95($7 off)


80mm

NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM - $9.95($5 Off)

Thats a chunk of change for a watercooler if you're not overclocking and using windows. You'd be fine with a smaller single or double generic cooler to save quite a few quid!

None of the NZXT utilities will work under MacOS, so no LED control and pump control - and as with any water cooler on a hackintosh, you'll have to plug the fans into the motherboard and let the motherboard control the speed as it heats up (you can set your own curves in the BIOS).

Also - those case fans you chose have LEDs too - but no way to control them under MacOS - I would HIGHLY recommend Noctua fans instead of NZXT - I alway use the quietest ones I can find. I even replaced the 2 Corsair water cooler fans in my rig (mounted in the front grill), with these Noctua's and put one in the rear exit fan in my case - creates a nice, quiet, flow until the BIOS kicks it into high gear. They aren't as fast or push as much air, but great for my 8700k overclocked (Gigabyte's bios preset) to 4.8ghz all day long. At idle, they shut off completely, under normal use, they ramp up to about 800 rpm, then go higher as it gets hotter into the mid 60's, then full tilt at about 75c

I don't have a TB card on mine, but AFAIK, hotswapping is still a no go on MacOS, and I think its still runs at Thunderbolt 2 speeds. I could be wrong there, but last I remember, it was that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484517467&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+140mm

With a $1400 build, don't skimp on $4 fans. Your corsair fan is hot garbage in terms of cfm-to-dbA (52 cfm and 25 dbA). Here's some much better 120mm fans:


1 74 cfm, 22.5 dbA, $4
2 +PWM
3 74 cfm, 15 dbA, 50% more silent
4 110 cfm, 37 dbA, 2.5 times louder
5 241 cfm, this will blow the components out of your case, provides extreme cooling, but 62 dbA, extremely loud


Here's good 140mm options:


1 Cheap, 61 cfm and 16 dbA
2 90 cfm and 18 dbA, way better but more expensive
3 159 cfm and 41 dbA, fastest 140mm fan listed on pcpartpicker


Both of these PSUs are both better and cheaper than yours: 1 2

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

• 5V LEDs
  
• Raspberry Pi
  
• a powered USB hub
  
• USB webcam
  
• 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board
  
  Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.

Magnets go in the four struts. It's printing now. I bought two Noctua 40x10mm 5v fans.

No the Noctua is 5V for hot end and extruder. Here Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4X10-FLX 5V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA you can also "upgrade" to a sunon with higher airflow to maintain better nozzle pressure https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7927772 I put finger quotes because not sure quite yet if the higher rate Sunon performs better.

Sure: Noctua fan = $13.95 shipped; cheap fans for $8 shipped.

These are PWM, 5 for $24 on Amazon. Quieter and move more air than the fans in the OP. Had them for a while, great fans.

I JUST installed a pack of 5 of these:http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PST-Controlled/dp/B00NTUJTAK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I went from having 3 default Corsair case fans + 1 fan on my Hyper 212 to having 7 case fans + 2 on my Hyper 212. The computer is noticeably louder, but not quite an annoyance, since adding many more fans. Should I exchange my Arctic ones for some of these sale ones? Mine don't seem too bad, and they can be jury rigged together which is kind of nice - I have them all on PWM.

A quick Google search finds most things

https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK

That computer has Cyberpower version MasterBox 5 case which supports 120mm fans in all mounts or 2x 140 in the front. http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/masterbox-5-black/

> I don't have a budget for case fans so I would like to purchase the best most reliable ones

Noctua but you're paying a lot for them.

Basically you want fans that are not sleeve bearing as those die fast. Ones with Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB) should last a long time, like these arctic ones https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PWM-Signal-Configuration/dp/B00NTUJTAK?th=1

You can also look into anything Noctua or Corsair's ML series of fans.

Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $83.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA - Premier Pro SP600 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $144.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE WHV2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer | $17.84 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Redragon - K551 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | EagleTec - KG010 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $866.63
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $806.63
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-13 03:09 EDT-0400 |

I'd probably spend the extra $49 to up the RAM to 16GB (faster ones too).

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/T9Gj4D/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvk

Solid mid-range gaming build with a Ryzen quad-core (4 cores, 8 threads), decent motherboard with a lot of features for the price, 8GB of RAM, 256GB SSD (I did not include a 1TB HDD, but budget another $40 or so if you need extra storage), GTX 1050 Ti 4GB will easily max out the games on your list, modular power supply, and a nice Deepcool case.

Also, thinking about the case I would probably recommend getting two 120mm fans to mount in front (the Deepcase Dukase v2 only has one rear exhaust fan), and perhaps two 120mm on top. This Arctic F12 PWM pack would be perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK

Edit- made a change to the keyboard so it would match your mouse color scheme (black/blue).

at these price points, you might as well buy new, since shipping isnt really worth it for most.

212 evo is $25

deepcool gammaxx 400 is $15 and performs same as 212 evo.

and for fans you can get a 5 pack of arctic f12 pwm fans for $21

PWM fan with PST feature.

PWM = "pulse-width modulator"; PST = "PWM sharing technology"

That "sharing technology" allows you to daisy-chain 3-5 fans together.

example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJTAK

I don't know where this info is coming from. From what I recall there were settings for Fan Control like: Standard, Heavy IO, Optimal. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJTAK/ as case fans and Dynatron Heatsink/Fans with X9/10 boards in standard ATX cases and have no problems. The case fans can go down to 5-600RPM but hovered around 1000 when I just left the settings in IPMI set to "Optimal". The command-line tool "IPMItool" will allow you to set a lower "alert" RPM speed if the hard coded amount either 800 or 900 RPM is too high and causes fan flapping.

Here

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $327.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Fractal Design Celsius S36 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $117.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $236.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Corsair MP510 960 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $135.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $1129.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $134.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $110.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD-SA 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $499.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2978.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-23 19:03 EDT-0400 |

You'll also want to get this fan hub.

Here is an extensive guide to building a PC, covers most of the topics of putting it together. You'll also want to enable XMP (sometimes called DOCP) in the BIOS to make sure the RAM is running at the full speed, and remember to set your monitor to 144hz in the Nvidia control panel when you've installed Windows and Drivers.

Feel free to ask any questions.

I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.

It can be another model, there's nothing inherently wrong with mixing and matching brands and models as long as they're of a size configuration that your computer supports. I think most people generally like to keep their fans consistent, but that's mostly an aesthetic thing. If you want to stick with the same fan model that came with the case, the fan that comes mountaed on the front of the Meshify C is this one: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-x2-gp-12. The case can support up to 3 120mm front fans, so you could add two more on the front with little difficulty.

One point to consider if you're thinking of adding a bunch of fans is that past a certain point your mobo may not have enough sys_fan connectors to support all of them. This is easily fixed, though, by getting either a fan controller or however many fan splitter cables you may need to get easy inputs for all of your fans (I used https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ on one of my builds and it worked well enough).

A fan splitter should work.

For those wondering the model:

5x AF120 (red LED)

tbh, u can find most fans around this price range. This particular one just offers a bit more with anti vibration and all that to reduce sounds and stuff.

As reference, i got two 120mm corsair with LED for $18 here

Also, brands dont impact asssss much in fans as fans are pretty simple, so less things to mess up in manufacturing

Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)


In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:


Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212


Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120


I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).


Edit: Crappy picture of mine

Congrats on your build. I'd highly recommend doing some cable management to route your cables behind the motherboard. It'll help with airflow and it should be relatively easy to do.

Regarding fans, Noctuas are always a great choice. I'd also recommend looking into the Corsair AF Series. Slightly louder, bit cheaper, and you have the option of LEDs. Regarding RAM, the B450 should be able to overclock your RAM to 3000 Mhz without much trouble so I'd definitely recommend it since it'll give you a nice performance boost. Can also OC your 2600x a good bit as well!

I have this case as well. Just wondering if I could get [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00F6S13DE&pd_rd_r=FXF2CF9YPEZQYTE561SH&pd_rd_w=WmDFM&pd_rd_wg=NzSiG&psc=1&refRID=FXF2CF9YPEZQYTE561SH) fans as I could get two for the price of one. Or if I should just get the 140mms

Easy if nothing is in the rack. Used these for the cabinet fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HA-CAbRCS8KKK

That said as long as you have decent access to the underside, it’s just a few screws and these are way quieter.

Drive around until you find somebody who's chucked a cabinet on the side of the road. Pick it up and use a big boring bit or jigsaw to cut some holes in the side. Then buy a couple of these to move air through the cabinet, then just mount all your components to the shelves or back.

hell yeah motherfucker

Why not just run a quiet fan all the time in a cabinet? I have two of these in my cabinet, one directly on top of my AVR, and I don't hear them at all.

for fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Quiet, blows tons of air. Suggest you use power adapter and not pull from usb port.

Also, undervolt helps.

Chrome is UGLY when it comes to cpu resources. Try the new chromium based edge DEV beta. Better with all the features of Chome.

For the person with the nvidia driver issue. Why use the MS provided old drivers? Go to nvidia's site and get newer ones.

https://www.geforce.com/drivers

I love the Ubiquiti Unifi POE switches for VoIP. Easy to configure, simple vlan implementation (just use Unifi's default vlan mechanism, untagged access port with PVID, no need to set vlan ID's on the phones).

But for VoIP, the more important thing is the router/firewall/UTM, and the configurations that may be specific to each vendor.

A tip: if you want your networking gears to run nice and cool with minimum risk of failure, grab some 120mm USB fans like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ and put one on top of each of your POE switch/router/firewall etc. Those things tend to run hot, because they're usually minimally or passively cooled, and heat is your no.1 enemy for electronics. With a simple inexpensive fan like that sitting on top (the model I linked is also whisper quiet), each of your boxes will easily drop 10C in temperature or more. I have one for each one of my Mikrotik CCR routers, SonicWall UTMs and Unifi switches, even on some Unifi APs, all running soothingly cool.

I personally have that box /u/BJWTech linked. It gets a little warm to the touch, but I picked up a simple USB Fan that blows across the box (and some other network gear) and it keeps it just barely warmer than room temp. Processor reports around 30c now.


120MM USB Fan

I actually use one of these in my network rack as well as a top-mounted exhaust fan. I have an Anker 5p USB hub that powers one of my smart hubs and then 3 Pi's.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-.2nDbNNNWC2X

1. You can do it probably once a day, or once in the morning and once at night.
   
   
2. Yeah, 5ft at your pressure and temp is too short. I would drop the temp of the keezer, lower your pressure, and that should help.
   
   
3. Get a small fan. I have one like this from Amazon

PowerA Charging Station - 2 controllers, not little kid friendly, as it has a spring to load/unload the controller and kids will just pull it off. If the spring is in the incorrect position, it can be difficult to put the controller on charge.

Collective Minds PSVR Stand and Charging Station - 2 controllers, 2 move controllers, and 1 USB slot for headset or PSVR AIM controller.

PlayStation Platinum Headset - Went through 2 PS Gold headsets due to weak plastic frame. Platinums feel more sturdy. Haven't used too much to test durability. Great sound, but I am not an audiophobe.

PSVR AIM Controller - Got it bundled with Firewatch. Read that it felt good in hands. I thought it felt a little awkward, but definitely easy enough to use. Just have to get used to the button layout.

AC Infinity Fans - These are 80mm fans. It comes with 2 fans in parallel that are powered over USB. I don't use my PS4's USBs, because those are taken up with other accessories, so I have it attached to my surround sound receiver. One fan pulling air from the back of the Pro, and the other directing the fan out of the shelf area. I recommend these, as I've noticed the spin up on my Pro has significantly went down.

I used these for my entertainment center behind my ps4 to allow better cooling and they work fantastically and move quite a bit of air quietly. You can also plug 6 in to one ac power brick because each pair comes with a male and female plug so you can connect multiple pairs of fans together.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5ok7CbQMP1M71

Looks like something like this.

i have the Set and forget in my tower and i really love it. I had to add some fans to circulate the air. But now its PERFECT!!! I have the one made for tower humidors.

I agree with this.

I have some devices in a shelf, so to keep air flowing I got a pair of these guys setup:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just keeps air flowing. Great for what it is.

If you're looking for more fans/don't like the solid color LED's Rosewill's got a 4 pack of 120mms that are usually around ~$15 seen them go for $12 before.

Rosewill ROCF-13001 is the model name for the pack.

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rosewill-120mm-Computer-Case-Cooling-Fans-Pack-of-4-ROCF-13001-38-2-CFM/173371669389?hash=item285dc1bb8d

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200072&cm_re=rosewill_fan_pack-_-35-200-072-_-Product


Just suggesting this set for those who want 3 or more cheap fans.

• Ryzen 5 2600 Great Budget CPU
  
• B450 AORUS ELITE, has RGB SYNC to control any LEDs you add and the color of LEDS on Gigabyte GPUs
  
• 128GB SSD for OS
  
• 1TB HDD For Storage
  
• GTX 1070 Windforce OC
  
• MX330 case, good airflow for a cheaper case , add fans in whatever Config you want case only comes with 1 fan, if you need a cheap set of fans to hold over you can get https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541435432&sr=8-4&keywords=120mm+fan+pack
  
• 650w Gold Rated Fully Modular PSU, this should be able to handle most upgrades you would throw at it (650w can handle a 1080ti OC and 8700K OC )
  
• Gigabyte Force K83 Keyboard, chose this because it has the most used Type of mechanical switches the Cherry MX Red, Keyboard has no LEDs but is on the cheaper side of Mechanical keyboards, will be a solid keyboard to use for gaming and with it being at the lower price point if you think you need a different kind of Switches you will be able to sell it and grab one with keys closer to what you may need and with RGB if wanted
  
• Corsair Harpoon, nice cheap mouse with RGB and 2 extra buttons on the side as well as adjustable DPI
  
  As for windows you will need to use windows 10 inactivated
  
  ​
  
  Extra note, if you hit the used market you should be able to get a GPU cheaper, watch for people who OC their GPU too hard without good cooling or mined on their GPUs without under volting and temperature controlling them
  
  For used parts i reccomend Ebay and r/hardwareswap and for checking for deal use r/buildapcsales price changes everyday, be on the look out for tomarrow and all wednesdays for EVGAs B-stock sales to get a cheaper Refurbished GPU and or PSU
  
  ​
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  |Type|Item|Price|
  |:-|:-|:-|
  |CPU|AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$159.89 @ OutletPC|
  |Motherboard|Gigabyte - B450 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard|$89.99 @ Newegg|
  |Memory|*G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory|$109.99 @ Newegg|
  |Storage|ADATA - Ultimate SU800 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive|$28.99 @ Amazon|
  |Storage|Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive|$45.89 @ OutletPC|
  |Video Card|Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Windforce OC Video Card|$374.98 @ Newegg|
  |Case|Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case|$46.98 @ B&H|
  |Power Supply|*EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply|$74.20 @ Amazon|
  |Keyboard|Gigabyte - FORCE K83 Wired Standard Keyboard|$39.24 @ Newegg|
  |Mouse|Corsair - Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse|$28.28 @ Newegg|
  |Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts|||
  |Total|$998.43||
  |*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria|||
  |Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-06 12:40 EST-0500|||
  
  ​

Judging by the newegg reviews, and the amazon.com reviews

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488214573&sr=8-1&keywords=ROCF-13001

"Yes, they are"

Yep, that’s exactly what I did. I bought a 5-pack Deepcool RF120 fans that i controlled using Asus Aura. I also bought some LED strips to add some effect. Links below:

Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MM5BQ1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Price History

• DEEPCOOL RF120 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hubs,   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 38 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• Arctic F12 Value pack 120mm Standard Low Noise Case Fan   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 1683 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Never fear, PriceKnight is here!
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fd7o1rz%2Frbuildapcsalescanada_general_discussiondaily%2Ff13dbzw%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

I suggest these fans as they are cheap and what I bought. Haven't tried them our yet, but they look good and are cheap for a pack of 5:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For monitors maybe check these out:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/bz8j4D/msi-optix-mag271r-270-1920x1080-165-hz-monitor-optix-mag271r

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/yWhKHx/viewsonic-vx2758-c-mh-270-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vx2758-c-mh

For the ram, here is a white and RGB 16gb model for ram for $105:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Zz3H99/team-t-force-delta-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tf4d416g3200hc16cdc01

Goodluck :)!

Cpu- https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700065&sr=1-18&keywords=cpu


Gpu
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-3GD/dp/B01KQUDE2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521699625&sr=1-5&keywords=GeForce+GTX+1060

Harddrive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

Motherboared
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&pd_rd_r=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV&pd_rd_w=VArLs&pd_rd_wg=5DoKl&psc=1&refRID=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV

Ram
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01N5P755B/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700408&sr=1-4&keywords=ddr4+ram

Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700503&sr=1-5&keywords=power+supply

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700563&sr=1-4&keywords=fan+pc

This is what I came up with.
took me 40 minutes

The Phanteks Eclipse P300 has fairly restricted airflow, so probably good to add a couple of intake fans in the front. These should work well and be fairly quiet: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM-Performance/dp/B00KF7O58G/

I would start with that. And then monitor your CPU temperature some. If it seems to get a bit high, you could always add an aftermarket cooler and post here again and ask which one to get. You can check your temps using this: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

I have an r5 for my rig, best thing is to ditch the stock fans and get some that move some serious air. I outfitted mine with noctuas' redux, 2 in the front and one in the back (also great for radiators) and then set a custom fan curve in the bios.

Noctua does have some Redux Fans in a grey color. In terms of silent fans that are stealth black, I'm also a big fan of [Fractal's Venturi Line] (https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Venturi-HP-14-FD-FAN-VENT-HP14-PWM-BK/dp/B00VYEI17U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492991095&sr=1-2&keywords=fractal+design+fans) , and have 3 of the 120mm variety in a Define Mini-C which is nigh inaudible.

Not all Noctua fans are tan/brown.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/

Get 2 140MM fans for intake and use the 2 included fans as top and rear exhaust. These Noctua redux 140s are good and cheap.

From what I've read, I agree. I don't mind paying the premium for style, but I don't want it to hobble my build when it comes time to overclock. Also, no USB-C, among other basic features in that price tier.

EDIT: Hey, /u/Computerknight54, just to follow up with this, I ordered the Taichi z370 and two Noctua 140mm fans for the front of the case. I'll run one 120mm exhaust fan in the back (and maybe one on the top?), and I'll be returning the RGB fans to save about $80 in total! Thanks again for commenting.

If you're going that route noctua has industrial fans:

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464045450&sr=8-9&keywords=noctua

>NF-A14 industrialPPC complies with the ingress protection rating IP52 that not only highly dust resistant but also withstands dripping water equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute.

I know they make some of their models in black, but they're usually more expensive. They look like this, but they aren't available from Amazon in the UK. You could try Newegg, if you're interested.

And if you don't like the brown bits in the corners you can remove them but they're actually the sound dampeners and they work really well.

You know there are black Noctua fans available?

Just jumping in to say I've found myself in the same boat. I'm designing an acrylic case for my printer and figured "Why not add a vent while I'm at it!" And down the rabbit hole I fell...

A few things I've learned in my modest 24 hours of research:

• Carbon - Like the Molekule article mentions in their recommendations, a carbon sponge filter isn't going to cut it. You need a large amount of carbon granules (5lb+) and ideally the air should have time to circulate over the carbon for effective adsorption
  
  
• HEPA - HEPA filters can capture particles smaller than 300nm, thanks to Brownian motion, so will definitely do their part in your filtering system
  
  
• Pre-Filter - A pre-filter at your air-intake point will help capture the bigger particles, lengthening the HEPA and carbon lifespan
  
  
• Fan - You need a pretty powerful fan to properly exhaust your enclosure and get the air to properly move through all of the filters. Fans are rated in CFM units (cubic feet per minute), and the cheap ones sold at your favourite electronics store are probably in the 1-10 CFM range. I've been looking at this one that has 158.5 CFM: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KFCRF1A/?coliid=I2I9OJ1U1BDXZC&colid=2514DQPRDMWKO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  What I'd really like to figure out is how to test for all of these particles at home. I see a lot of posts on here saying "I use a carbon filter and it works great!" but how do we know? Sure, a cheap carbon filter can reduce the odour, but I'd love to be able to do occasional tests to make sure my filter is working effectively. Will post back here if I find anything on that :)
  
  Update Just read about a study that showed recirculating the air in your enclosure helps reduce emissions even more. Seems logical, since the more times the air is pushed through the filters, the more likely they are to catch things - but great to have confirmation on that. Will also have the added benefit of containing the heat, not having to pull colder air into the enclosure while it's running. Source: https://3dprint.com/241787/should-vented-enclosures-become-a-mandatory-safety-standard-for-fff-3d-printers/
  
  My plan now is essentially to have the pre-filter, fan, and HEPA filter mounted on the side of the enclosure, then a hose down to a large box of carbon under the desk, and another hose out of that box feeding back into the other side of the enclosure. I'll likely run the fan on a lower speed while printing, then crank it up to 100% when the print is done and starts to cool - and if I can hook it up to the printer board and have the gcode control that, all the better

They also sell heavy duty ones that are black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_r9U6CbQ4H50YZ

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Story Time

​

Initially, I started with this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2Z11QE ) as I was thinking of throwing something together like what you're talking about. Then my "project" began to grow.

That's when I ended up ordering this case instead ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ66ZC ). That said, my server consists of a Threadripper 2990WX with an AIO water cooler. Well...this case wasn't made for that. So my father in law machined a hole in the top to mount the radiator on the top of the case like a blower on a car. This worked VERY well for a couple of weeks, but I just wasn't happy with it.

Finally, I ordered this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG ), to which I was able to fit everything inside of with a few extra bolts that still need to be trimmed. Here's a pic of the inside of mine and the temp 32 cores runs at ( https://imgur.com/tek9ID0 - https://imgur.com/vEPFLv5 ), do excuse the dust.

​

As far as SSD's go, just do something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMGZBP0 ). Saves space and doesn't hurt them as they only take a single HDD slot. Taping them to the side of the case doesn't hurt either if you don't care about the looks. Also, I want to boast about these fans for a min ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A ). Move a lot of air and aren't as loud as you'd think. The 120mm variant is a good bit louder, but still well worth it.

The picture you found is a bit blurry. That "IT856SE" you are seeing could actually be "IT8665E"?

There is an extended version of the it87 driver that's not in the normal kernel, and it has an "IT8665E" in its device ID list:

https://github.com/bbqlinux/it87

It is not mentioned in the README text, but the IT8665E support is inside that "it87.c" file.

Sadly, the person that worked on extending the it87 module gave up recently, he felt he had no time to do a good job. I don't know if there's someone else actively working on it somewhere.

Anyway... on Arch you have this special version of the it87 driver in the AUR as:

it87-dkms-git

This AUR package should be easy to use if everything works right. Before you install it, you just have to make sure you have the "...-headers" package for the kernel you are using installed. For example, if you use "linux" then install "linux-headers", or if you use "linux-lts" install "linux-lts-headers".


If nothing works, you could do a hardware solution. A simple way to solve this is to wire the PWM signal from the CPU fan header to all case fans. You then go and set the fan curves in the motherboard's BIOS menus, and you are done.

There's inexpensive fan hub products to do this. If your case fans are 4-pin PWM fans, the products are quite cheap, but there's also versions that can translate a PWM signal into voltage control for 3-pin fans, so 3-pin case fans can be made to work as well.

Here's two examples of what I'm thinking about:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/

https://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/fan-control/na-fc1

This one here can drive 3-pin fans, it translates the PWM signal into different voltages so it's more expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

All of those products get power from a cable that's connecting to the PSU. This is so they won't overload the motherboard fan header. They only connect to the motherboard fan header to get the PWM speed signal but won't draw power from there.

You can also make the graphics card drive case fans in hardware. There are adapter cables that can connect into that tiny 4-pin fan header that graphics card have. You can then get the fan signal from the graphics card to one or two case fans. Those adapters cables are a bit hard to find. You could do a setup where the motherboard's CPU fan header drives a case fan or two, and the GPU drives a case fan or two.

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

No, just using a Y splitter on each header isn't anything to worry about. Daisy-chaining them on the other hand...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the H60 only takes up one fan header, unless you're planning to add an additional fan for push/pull? (Which is a very minor performance increase, if that is your intention, but it's up to you).

What I did in my case, also with multiple fans, was get something like this that allows for control from the motherboard but power from the PSU. No strain on the MB, and easy control for the whole case.

You could try a pwm fan hub like this one https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE. I don't have any experience with one of these as I just use splitters, so I'm not really sure if you can control each fan individually or not.

Fan controllers can also have a fan input and external power - the word I was looking for is actually "fan hub", it turns out. example

Sick ideal! Do you think this will work for the Dell Visor? Just me looking at these pictures I think it will and if so I'm going to buy a Noctua NF-A4X10-FLX 5V & A USB to 3/4-Pin PWM 5V Power Adapter then use a power bank I have laying around.

If you plan on doing any heavy lifting with the Pi4, I'd definitely check out the MicroConnectors RAS-PCS46 as it's the only case I've found that supports 40mm fans straight out of the box. I ordered a Noctua 40x40x10mm fan to go with it, as well as a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan to try out too (want to see how much difference 10mm extra of fan blade height makes). If you order the Noctua fans, make SURE you get the 5V ones and not the 12V ones, unless you don't care about powering it from the Pi directly. I'll post links for them at the bottom of this post.

As for info on cooling, there are some excellent videos on YouTube, with one of th best being the series from Explaining Computers. He gives lots of charts and info, plus try multiple cooling solutions. Also mentioned that he should have the new cooling video done soon, so I'm personally really looking forward to seeing what Chris Barnatt cooked up for the Pi 4.

Have you checked out any reviews of IC Graphite? It was reviewed by Linus Tech Tips, JayzTwoCents, Gamers Nexus as a replacement for thermal paste on traditional PC CPU's, but all found that IC Graphite is a horrible replacement for traditional thermal paste. With a Pi4, you might be able to get away with using it if you have some active cooling going, which is likely the approach I'll be taking (except usng Artic thermal pads as I already have those on hand). I do plan on doing an experiment with my Pi 4's where I use Arctic thermal pads on one, and ArcticSilver 5 thermal paste on another, with both the same heatsink and fan, to compare how well pads stack up to paste for the Pi.



Also I found this insane RPi cooling tower that has a full radiator with copper pipes and everything - it seems a little overkill but is only $20: https://www.seeedstudio.com/ICE-Tower-CPU-Cooling-Fan-for-Raspberry-pi-Support-Pi-4-p-4097.html


MC RAS-PCS46 Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Stackable-Raspberry-Enclosure-Heatsinks/dp/B07MQXRGZR

Noctua 40mm fans:

40x40x10mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-7

40x40x20mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-8

Noctua. They make a 40x40x10 fan that is as quiet as it's gonna get. Cools my pi to 40*C and I can't hear it at all from more than about 6" away.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495053689&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+40x40x10mm+premium+fan+nf-a4x10+flx

This thing comes with rubber mounting feet as well as vibration dampening mounting studs. Whole thing fits inside my pi case.

I bought this one:

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V - 3-Pin Premium Quiet Fan (40mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5I-YCbGEYGVG9

You need new 40mm fans. If you want something truly silent, you should try noctua ones like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=40mm+noctua+5v&qid=1570668878&sprefix=40mm+noctua&sr=8-5


https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=40mm+noctua+5v&qid=1570668953&sprefix=40mm+noctua&sr=8-3

Oh shit, sorry. I missread and thought the radial failed.

So it's the Noctua fan? Does it not have am model number on it?
Sure it's 50mm? I can only find a 40mm on their website: https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-5v

Edit: According to this site the mk3 fan is a 40×40×10 mm. Amazon.com link

I can't seem to find a 12V Noctua 40mm fan. Will this 5V one from amazon work? and will it require any soldering?

Edit: Found a 12V Noctua

You could replace the fans with some Noctuas. They definitely won't bother you. A little pricey but they're basically silent. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NEMGCIA/

give me a few to see what I got.. I ordered from Amazon.. H/o

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is the one I used!

if you are on a budget consider some arctic f12 pwm fans in a 5 pack, you will be able to fully fill out this case and they are very quiet when controlled. Those fans are excellent bang for buck with fluid bearings that should last a while as well. Pay as much for this pack as much as you pack for one noctua fan...

Get this pack, each fan have a build in fan splitter. You can chain all 5 on one header.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PST-Technology/dp/B00NTUJTAK/

Or use one powered fan hub.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP

Checkout:

• https://www.serverbuilds.net/
  
• /r/JDM_WAAAT
  
  The build above is more expensive than I would spend for a home media server, but everyone has a different budget. You might want to consider alternatives to some parts that are just as good, but cheaper. For example, do you really need those noctua 120mm fans? You can get a 5 pack of Arctic fans for $27 and do just as good a job cooling. There are other things you could do without or find cheaper alternatives for. Below are a couple of things that jumped out at me:
  
  I'm not sure about the 10 gb ethernet adapters. I get your desire to link your PC, but check to see what other bottlenecks you have and if the 10 gb adapters will do anything (e.g. hard drive / ssd read and write speeds).
  
  While we are talking storage, I always try to challenge peoples assumptions that they need RAID. RAID is not a backup solution. RAID is about up-time. RAID is not easy to expand. For media storage you might be better off using a pooling solution like mergerfs or stablebit drivepool.
  
  Is the ethernet cable going outside? If not, then you don't need the direct burial / waterproof cable.
  
  The netgear switch seems unnecessary if you only have two devices with 10gbe and you can connect them directly.
  
  The rosewill drive cages are nice, but if you don't need hot swap you can save ~$80 by switching to Norco 5 x 3.5" HDD Hard Drive Cage.

I've got both those (3-pin) and the PWM variant in rigs and I absolutely love them. Arctic list their exact PWM to RPM curves at various voltages on the product page on their website. Very quiet up to 1000 RPM and then pick up more of a whooshing sound all the way to the full RPM.

One nice feature of the PWM fan is that you can daisy chain multiple ones together on the same header, no need for a splitter cable.

PWM 5-pack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTUJTAK

$26 for 5 Arctic f12 PWM fans

Here's 2-3 quick builds. One air cooler which you could pick a different cooler and different fans if you wanted. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Wwqsw6

You could also go much lower by just picking some artic cooling pwm fans a 5 back of 120 is only like 25 bucks and just throw a 212 or similar cpu cooler in there. https://smile.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PST-Technology/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=artic+cooling+5+pack&qid=1559235349&s=gateway&sr=8-2

And one with an AIO https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bWrHXP that keeps the original fan and just adds one top fan.

I also have no idea how many PWM headers or AIO headers your MB has so you might need PWM splitters. The artics daisy chain last time i checked so you don't need them for that.

Arctic F12 PWM PST Value pack Standard Low Noise PWM Controlled Case Fan with PST Feature Cooling, 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.qAOzb2KMPN5Q

You can get a 5 pack of Arctic F12 PWM PST case fans for 25 bucks and shave a lot of money off the build. I use them and love them. Fits the white theme too.

It's a great choice. I'd argue it's just about the best case you can get for under $45 - $50.

You might need to add some fans though, in that case I'd suggest a 5 pack of PWM 120mm Arctic fans from Amazon for $21 + tax. https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK

https://www.amazon.ca/ARCTIC-F12-120-Standard-Configuration-possible/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=arctic%2Bf12&qid=1571875423&sr=8-1&th=1

These are pretty good value, but unfortunately not on sale. I can't speak for their volume though. Non-PWM version is even cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK

If you get the Ryzen 2600X, you wouldn't need a cooler, as it comes with a decent one (if you plan to overclock it would do you good to get an aftermarket). That intel 9600K doesn't come with one, so something like the Hyper 212 Evo would be a safe bet.

​

If you want to get fans, I have and recommend the Arctic F12. They're really good mid-grade fans. Quiet too.

are fans that expensive really worth it? I got 5 of these for $25 and they're strapped to my 212 Evo heatsink

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NTUJTAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517508811&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Arctic+120mm+silent+fan+5&dpPl=1&dpID=516qu1fEqXL&ref=plSrch

This is a 5 pack of pretty cheap fans they're actually only $25 so that's five bucks a fan you can't get much better than that for decent pwm fans low-noise and decent static pressure which would be good for the front of the case because it's pretty restrictive. :)

Thermalright's TY-127s fill every checkmark on your list. Great fan by a great manufacturer. I think they are only available in Europe though.

Phantek also has some good black/white ones as well. Also could be worth checking out gentle typhoons though I think those are gray rather than white.

If you're want something a bit cheaper you can actually get a five pack black/white arctic f12s which are pwm. Amazing value here.. They are legit good fans.

It can happen, but not for 2 fans unless you are having some fans that drain a buttload of power. As a rule of thumb, 1 A at 12 V, so 12 W is fine for most fan headers.

Just to make it sure, are you sure that the fan header on your Mobo is a full PWM header and not a fake one?

If its full PWM; you can get a PWM splitter. Swifftech, Silverstone and Phobya sell those. They take the PWM signal of a single header and splitt it for up to 8 ports, but the power comes from a Sata or Molex power connector.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00VNW556I?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

If you can daisy chain the fans, a fan header usually can handle 1 amp. Or you can use a fan splitter like this.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483416766&sr=1-4&keywords=fan+splitter

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Jc8Zxr/corsair-case-fan-co9050008ww

some of the best for the money.

Not sure what you mean for a y-splitter though, like a fan header so you can plug multiple in? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483481591&sr=8-1&keywords=case+fan+hub

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483481591&sr=8-1&keywords=case%2Bfan%2Bhub&th=1

Use a pwm hub, it's internal and you plug it into your CPU pwm (must use it as they need pure PWM), then plug the 4 fans into that.

Phanteks makes one (though that seems geared to 3 pin fans):

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

Here's another, a 4 pin one:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

A320, B350, X370, it all works the same vs Ryzen 2.
And unless you have a Ryzen3 and want to get a Ryzen 7, there will be probably minimal incentive to get the newer gen once it's there.

>The main things I wanted out of changing mobos was better VRMs, better features

yeah I read that the first time.
Again, this will give you no performance boost, so it's essentially a useless upgrade, that you end up paying money for.
As for the "more fan headers", just get a fan hub and be done with it.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517888648&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+controller+pc

You can also get a fan controller if you don't have enough headers such as: Fan Controllor

This one supports 8 fans and runs off sata

I've used this Silverstone fan hub in I think 5 builds now, never let me down once:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474573427&sr=1-1&keywords=silverstone+hub

The One I use. Does the trick.

You just might not have enough airflow. try getting 2 top mounted exhaust fans, and another intake fan. Something cheap like Arctic F12s could work for now to see if that's your issue.

Also if you're running mATX you might want to get a fan header splitter like this, If you don't have enough inputs.

Also what is your room temp?

Yes. I would recommend this

This one has all 5 for u but it's a bit expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PDR4xbC9M7NBN

You could go for this cheaper one and use a molex adapter for the 5th one to save $5 :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4ER4xb9QCJYZR

So yeah you have three ports available to plug fans directly in to the motherboard. What I would recommend over a Molex adapter would be a hub like this.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rh0Zxb68PGZVT

Still plug your cpu fan directly into the cpu fan hub on the mobo, but plug all the other fans into the hub, with the hub plugged into one of the system fan ports. And voila, now you have support for 7 more fans.

Glad I can help, feel free to ask for clarification on anything else.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M4biDbWNCKPE8

Don't spend $50 dollars on a fan controller. Just get this. You can also easily run 3 fans on each Mobo header but any more than that and you'll be pushing the voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

If you don't want your buds to molds or smell like hay, you should try to create some air exchange in that box. You want air to be moving around the buds constantly, but not too fast. A couple of computer fans like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397338984&sr=8-6&keywords=pc+box+fan. Buds are looking supreme, by the way! I love harvesting, but waiting for my bud to dry and cure in some ways is the worst part of growing.

here is the rosewill variant

Here is the Cooler master variant

I ended up going with the Cooler Master fans, cheap, quiet, get the job done.

These fans are good. They come as a 4 pack for cheap! If you want to change the turbo from 4.1Ghz to 4.5Ghz, you'd have to test to make sure the CPU is stable at those speeds. To up the turbo frequency, you could either up the turbo multiplier (sometimes this doesn't work) or up the FSB frequency from 200mhz to 220mhz, which will up your CPU from 3.5/4.1 GHz to 3.85/4.5 Ghz. Again, be sure to stress test!

Drop the thermal paste, the nh d14 already comes with it, get this value pack from cooler master, its a 4 in 1 for $12, similar quality to those fans you selected, and the lg ips monitor is at 1080p, the dell one is at 1200p

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $74.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 2GB Video Card | $244.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.49 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | OCZ 600W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $38.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ Outlet PC
Keyboard | Logitech K270 Wireless Standard Keyboard | $27.98 @ Amazon
Mouse | Gigabyte GM-M7700 Wireless Laser Mouse | $19.99 @ Newegg
Other| Cooling System ($14.00) http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Silent-Value/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1345499541&sr=1-1 | $0.00
Other| Evercool Connectors ($4.00) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002| $0.00
Other| Wireless Adapter ($19.99) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704045 | $0.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $780.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-08 16:27 EDT-0400 |

Just gonna copy paste a comment I have made before, however this is a better video that shows a complete setup. I was lazy so I just hooked my fan controllers up to an old media PC just to get them moving at the moment.


I too just got started doing my own flavors last week. After I got in everything it dawned on me I would need some sort of mixing or steeping process as I am to impatient. I opted to go for the DIY magnetic mixing table for my needs. Now mine won't have heat like the nice single units on amazon and such do, but it will allow me to mix up to 8 different flavors simultaneously.

Simplest video I could find showing basic principles

Parts I had to buy:

4 port PC Fan Controller (X2)

Magnetic Stir Bars


Parts I already had:

4 Pack PC Fans (X2) I had already bought these for my PC builds earlier and bought what I consider to be nicer fans and went with Cooler Master. If I were buying new for this project, I would probably just go with Rosewill brand. Also upon building I ended up sticking with mostly 80mm fans instead of 120mm. I had thought the wider center may be needed on the fan but thats not the case.

Neodymium Magnets for the fans (X2) I already had some of these as well in the form of magnets I salvaged from old Hard Drives. If I didn't have those to tear apart, I would buy these instead.

So as you can see for me the mixing table only took an investment of around $30 because of what I had access to. However if you have any friends that do IT work it is hard to believe they wouldn't have old PC fans and busted IDE hard drives they wouldn't just give you. Also you could cut it down to 4 or even 1 fan to start with, and extrapolate from there.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCQT6M/ref=psdc_11036291_t3_B00KFCRIQM

Those look pretty black to me O.o...the rubber ends are to minimize vibration noise. I use Cooler Master ones which are pretty quiet, but not Noctua quiet lol

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-3&keywords=cooler+master+120mm

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-4&keywords=cooler%2Bmaster%2B120mm&th=1

For stock cooler, you might try a CPU water cooler. Cooler and vastly more quiet. I have H80i which is a decent entry point.

Good luck tho hope you find some!

Okay I will download MSI Afterburner this evening. Also, I ordered a 4 piece fan system. My case has room for two more fans up top and two on the front. From what I read I can go into Bios and set them as auto depending on CPU temp, correct? I'd like the fans to run when system is under a load and cut back when not. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8I474/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fans are an awesome deal. However, they don't come with 3-pin to molex converters so you would want to get something like this to plug them in.

Noctua is probably the best for silence.

NF-F12

NF-A14

They'll provide great cooling at very low RPMs, which render them virtually inaudible.

Edit: I can't provide any input into corsairs fans as i don't own them, but after owning [noctuas] for a while, the color scheme doesn't bother me one bit when i get confused if my system is even powered on :p. Gotta get close and listen for the harddisk.

Everyone seems to love the Noctua NF-F12 PWMs. They're silent, resilient and powerful. Not very cheap (for fans) though, and if you don't like brown, the differently-colored variants are a bit more expensive I believe.

Cougar Vortex - The only equal of Noctua fans that I have found. Comes in black if you aren't a fan of orange.

Noctua NF-F12 - Bit more expensive than Cougar, not higher quality but better known. Bit of a fashion statement but still very high quality. Check the more expensive industrialPPC version if you want black.

I personally always pick Cougar. Saves me $8 per fan and orange is my favorite color.

Yeah, I bought 3 of these 120mm fans, which are the same ones as come with the cooler. Honestly, it was probably a little overkill and two would have been fine. I’m by no means a pro at this, but I did a little research and figured it worth a little extra for super-quiet fans, and then read up on setting fan curves in bios. With these three fans (plus the cooler one) (two in, one out) I rarely get them above 40-50 percent speed while keeping case cool and very quiet.

Again, purely anecdotal, but has worked well for me.

I bought NF-F12. Do google though as I see people mentioning NF-A12x25 a lot and I haven't done research on various Noctua fan models.

Sure bud, here is the cooler and here is the fan I put on the rad, completely optional but I'm certain makes a big difference in noise, as Noctuas are top end.

Also, here is the video tutorial for installation, an easy installation that takes a little over an hour if you have the right tools, but is pretty simple. Here is the tool set I used, and it gave me any size or fit that I needed to do this easily, plus is great if you ever do any computer customizing in general and need a nice set.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Sure thing, I used 2x of these in my Synology.

Very nice but expensive fans ($20 a fan) but it includes a fan splitter and etc if you need more ports for fans on your motherboard.
www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1448996722

Noctua makes lovely fans. What do you mean you "don't know which ones to get"? It should be pretty straightforward? Get one of the appropriate size, preferably with PWM if your motherboard supports it, and make sure it's the high-pressure fan designed for heatsinks rather than a high-airflow fan for case ventilation. Like this.

NF-F12 are Premium fans with rubber feet for reduced noise.

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC

This was the model I was looking at
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00650P2ZC?cache=466ed4e64194bdba84f6478351eafaaa&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411330390&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

You can get them brand new on Amazon right now for $18.

Bearings: sleeved<fluid dynamic<magnetic (as corsair would have you believe) FDB is fine.

Static pressure is important when forcing air through a radiator or fin array. It's the amount of pressure the fan can overcome. Generally you want to replace a radiator fan with something that has the same or higher static pressure.

I'm not really a fan of Corsair fans. If you have 4 pin PWM fans, then get these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00650P2ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By far the best fans available, imo.

If noise is your problem:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2

Ring is changeable red/blue or you can remove it. Can also paint it.

You want the "Quiet Edition" not the "High Performance Edition." The high performance edition is even louder. Here's what you need

oh sorry I forgot this was a water cooler Go with the SP120s they're meant for watercooling

It depends on your processor.

What do you have?

Do you overclock?

You should be fine enough, but I'd use at least 1 PWM fan.

Here's some cheap noctuas that work great:$28 for 2

Alternatively, here's some great corsiars: $27 for 2

I just put together a build with the S340 and it comes with 2 fans. One on the top (exhaust), and one on the rear (exhaust). I've since added a H60 into the rear (intake), as well as 2xSP120's on the front as intake as well. I think this is a good setup, but you may find better results with different fan orientation.

You don't need static pressure since your cooler radiator fans are already pulling good air into the case to cool the gpu and motherboard. I have a Corsair AF140 fan which fits perfectly. Here is a good video by JayZ explaining why air pressure is very important and you need a equal balance of air coming in and out. Also, if you want nicer looks, you can put these Corsair aftermarket fans for your H100i GTX to make your pc look nicer. They perform a bit better than the stock fans on your cooler, but they are much quieter and vibrate less than those. In summary from his video, you need more static pressure air coming in than out, but not so much that it is forcing its way out of leaks and channels.

The big white fan in back is a Phantek, the two with white rings are Corsair and the fans on the radiator are made by Bitfenix.

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4

5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5


I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510460290&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+40mm

best little 40mm fans I've experienced.

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

I recommend replacing it with this fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0LMFAbPDG8Y0G

I replaced all my fans on my wanhao with theses way quieter and way more airflow.

That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yFYjzbKHXWEGP

I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.

Hotend Fan 40x10mm

Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm

Mother Board Fan 50x10mm

Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.

Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_57..BbJP6S3M5

I did this upgrade. It really cuts down on the fan noise.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/original-prusa-i3-mk2-40x40x10mm-fan-adapter-25828
OR http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234

With this fan: https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Took mine off months ago. Not really needed. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Are the original fans half the width? they might only be 10mm deep fans which would be 4x10


Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/134-3486845-7333707?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009NQLT0M&pd_rd_r=4f650a11-65f7-11e9-a637-6b060766031a&pd_rd_w=dKWyl&pd_rd_wg=nBDLD&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE&psc=1&refRID=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE

Fuck yes. You've inspired me.

I'm looking at these noctuas because they are silent and I'm thinking I'll have to go with a battery option. I don't think it will bother me that much. I'm wondering if getting a rechargable double a solution or just getting a vaporizer battery would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

No problem, glad I could help!

The mount fits a 40x40x10mm fan. I'm using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RCdPAbVHRTZVE) Noctua fan with great results!

• LEDs
  
• Sound proofing foam for outside
  
• Microphone stand
  
• Tiny fan for cooling VRMs or whatever
  

50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.

PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.

• Buy https://www.amazon.ca/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
  
• Remove PSU. 2 bolts: one at the back, one on the side from the side where 2.5" drives are.
  
• Open PSU. There are a couple of pretty obvious screws. Box opens like a lid.
  
• Unscrew and yank stock fan out. Connector had glue on it, so I had to scrape it off.
  
• Install Noctua fan. Route its cable with the rest of cables that come out from PSU.
  
• Plug Noctua into your motherboard. Use included low-noise adapter cable for best results.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQLT0M/

Really, any 40mm fan will do. But here's:

• A Noctua 40mm fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/
  
  
• Screws that fit it:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6S6QQ/

I used the NF-A4x10FLX fan.

Very quiet. The ServeTheHome thread linked above has two other types of fans used. They are fairly quiet too. I used some of those on the PSUs in the switch and then also disconnected one of the supplies as I don't need both running at once.

> I haven't found a quiet, well-performing 40mm fan

I use this 40mm Noctua on my extruder's heat sink. It is so silent that I thought it was dead the first time I turned the printer back on. I had to visually check it spinning and feel the airflow before I could believe it.

Not sure if it meets your standards for well-performing, but it's been great for me.

In regards to sound, the mods I have done:

• Printed and added feet dampeners, compatible with the Z-brace mod. These made a VERY noticable difference.
  
• Replaced heatblock fan with a 40mm Noctua fan.
  
• Replaced control box fan with 120mm Noctua fan, using a [printed adapter.]
  (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1590987)
  
  The mods I plan to do:
  
  
• Either remove the PSU fan entirely, or replace it with a noctua fan. It is the main source of noise in the control box, something I realized AFTER replacing the rear fan 🙃. People say the 120mm fan mod provides enough airflow to cool the PSU with the original fan, and top psu case, removed.
  
• Install stepper motor dampers on X and Y axis motors. Lots of reports of these making a big difference.
  
• Reinforce the Ikea Lack table I have it sitting on, or replace the table completely. I've realized those tables contribute significantly to wobbling of the printer, as well as reverberation of any noises it puts out.

The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.

This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)

I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306

The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.

I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.

I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.

There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!

If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.

-Tunder

PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.

I replaced my fan with the one below. It is very quiet, fits nicely, and cools as well as the old.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/

If you want to run the fans at 100% all the time:
https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Adaptor-Cable-Sockets-Sleeved/dp/B00W5HAROA/

If you want to control the speed from the MoBo
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

As many as your heart desires really. Never limit yourself to what your motherboard can do, you can easily expand it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

I have two of these in my system and control 12 fans at once via PWM and my motherboards fan curve settings.

Your motherboard only has one header for case fans, so without a hub, you wouldn't be able to use more than one fan. This is what I bought and it's been working great. You won't be able to see the part on PCPP unfortunately. Any PWM fan will work with that.

Fan Hub:
SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vZgBCb02XDDP4

RGB Splitter:
2 pcs black 4 Pins LED Splitter Cable LED Strip Connector 4 Way Splitter Y Splitter for One to four RGB 5050 3528 LED Light Strips with 10x Male 4 Pin Plugs -30cm/12inch Long (1 to 4Splitter Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K21JVF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0gBCbYQHM15R

NZXT USB Hub:
NZXT Internal USB Hub - Expands 5 USB 2.0 Ports - Sleek Multifunctional Design - Molex Connection - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IFGFTJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_71gBCbTVQKXD4

You want a fan hub like THIS. You can connect three pin female connectors to the four pin males, they just run at full power.

More quick googling...

>CPF04 is designed for enthusiasts with need for controlling numerous system fans.It is capable of expanding one motherboard PWM fan header to support up to eight fans. Powered directly by SATA cable from the computer power supply and filtered through a built-in 2200μF capacitor, the CPF04 can provide clean, stable voltage to any fan for optimal performance. Equipped with speed detection sensors for accurately controlling eight PWM fans simultaneously, it is an excellent solution for system fan expansion.

$13 USD on Amazon

Someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but that seems like what you're looking for. I think you just need to make sure that you plug that hub into the one controllable port.

I'd recommend doing a little research because i'm not 100% on that, though it sounds pretty good to me.

Edit: See my other comment. No PWM fans, no control.

>In my mind, I figured if they all hook up to the hub, that should power the the leds and the fans. I’m guessing this is not the case.

Thats not the case. The fans have two cables for a reason. One controls the fan functionality, one controls LED functionality.

>So my question now is, if I only have two spots on the board and 5 fans total, how do I connect them all?

You'll want to get a fan hub, ideally a PWM hub like this one. It connects to your PSU (for power) and your motherboard (for speed control) and will let you run multiple fans off one motherboard header.

That would not be an ideal one, but yeah.

4 fans on a single fan header is very much stretching the capability, as it's pulling all of the power for them from the single header.

This one uses SATA power so you can safely power more fans with control from a single header

With both, ALL of the connected fans are going to have the same speed, as they are controlled by the single fan header's output.

Yeah, a fan hub would be good

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

example like this, it connects directly to your PSU using SATA cable so no need to worry about having lot of fans

and it also connects to motherboard so you can still control all the fans (but all at the same time)

I have 10 fans I want to work at the same speed, so I use two of these:

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhU1Cb36Z1YJD

The power comes from the psu, so the pwm control can come from the motherboard. I get that signal from one single fan header using a y-splitter

That's totally up to you! That's definitely some eye candy though.

You could get this. It supports up to 4 PWM fans(Silverstone states only the connectors on the glossy side support 4-pin fans).

SilverStone Technology All Black 1-to-8 PWM Fan Hub (CPF04) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ovmXBbVBR6R65

You can get a pwm fan hub.

Echoing the other comments, I wouldn't split a single mobo header that many times without supplemental PSU power. I'd personally go with this Silverstone hub so you can have up to 8 fans.

it actually has 1 case fan header the other one is for the CPU cooler so you can't use it with a regular fan

either a fan y-splitter or a fan hub

with a either you will not be able to control each fan's speed as they all share the same PWM signal and you might run into current limitation for motherboard (unlikely)

with a cheap fan hub you won't run into any current issues but you will still not be able to control each fan speed (all fans will work at the same speed - you would be able to control that speed)

If you want to control each fan individually you would need a 5.25" fan controller

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493531333&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+header

Here ya go

If you're seeing 800MHz RAM then that's normal. You multiply it by 2 to get what speed your RAM is really running at. Hence Double Data Rate (DDR).

As for the fans, you don't need to replace the entire motherboard. Just buy a fan hub. That one supports up to 8 fans, supports speed control if you plug it into your motherboard, and is powered by a SATA connector. Your PSU should have some spare cables or one that's already dangling inside your case.

Don't use a fan hub/fan splitter that will power more than two fans through one header on the motherboard. It could overload.

idk, it's not $40, but I just got one of these doodads because my new heatsink (Cryorig H7) blocks one of the fan headers I was using. It works. I don't know if there's any benefit, but it powers all the fans directly from the PSU instead of via the motherboard, but gets the pwm and fan speed signals from the mobo. If your fans don't all match though, it only reads the speed from the one that's plugged in to the designated port, but the PWM signal still gets passed through so they'll all spin at their correct speed.

Oh, also, if you have a silverstone PSU, the short cable set PP05-E is good to reduce cable clutter.

If your keyboard has cherry-compatible switches, these are some nice keycaps for it. If it's not a mechanical keyboard (looks like it might be from the pic) then get one.

Any PWM splitter will work (did you buy PWM fans or 3pin fans). Whether its simple cables or into a box like this

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Computer/dp/B01GZPEQW6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480383759&sr=8-14&keywords=pwm+splitter

Running 6 of those fans per channel wont be a problem at all. If you were ever worried about power you could always use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480383789&sr=8-4&keywords=pwm+splitter

They power the fans from the PSU and send the pwm and rpm signal to the controller.

Personally I used to use asus fan control and it seemed to lag in response (took a while to respond to temperatures) plus the whole fact that it dictated motherboard choice in the future.

I use an Aquaero 6 Pro with 8 EK Vardar fans and an Aquacomputer d5.

I have it run my pump at 38% (you can adjust it in 1% increments)

I have it run my vardar fans DC controlled and it ramps them up based on water temperature. I have a water temp probe, an internal temp probe, and ambient temp probes on the outside of each radiator so i can measure incoming air, internal air, outgoing air, and water temp.

It shows me the delta between ambient temp and water temp and runs my fans from ~500rpm to 900rpm depending on water temp

The benefit is its completely independent of the pc. I can change hardware, wipe the hard drive, reset the motherboard and my wc system keeps going with no configuration. Only thing it needs the pc in windows for is cpu and gpu temps which are really just so i can see them. You should control fans based on water temp, not gpu/cpu temp.

Want to run an led strip, it can do simple 12v led strips. It can run an RGB led. It can interface with flow meters and all kinds of shit.

The new corsair HD 120s look sick and offer great static pressure but... cost a kidney. :/ As for a fan controller, I would highly recommend the silverstone pwm fan controller ( Amazon ) and software like speedfan to control the rpms. Jayztwocents has a good tutorial on the software as it is a bit confusing at first. Best of luck!

If you are OK with all fans being controlled by the same header, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480630455&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+pwm

It'll allow any 4 pin fans to be controlled via the CPU FAN header.

If you need different fans running at different speeds, you'll likely want splitters for each motherboard header.

I've had good use out of this fan hub. I plugged it into the cpu fan slot so all my fans are at quarter speed if CPU isn't under load, and only go all out if under heavy load.

>What is the theory of fan placement and different kinds of fans going in different parts of the case?

/u/dweller_12 provided the fan size and locations for your case. Using this information, you'd do a 120mm intake for the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back at the minimum. If you feel like you need additional airflow, add 2 120mm fans up top as exhaust and 2 120mm fans on the side as intake. This is overkill though.

If you have a 240mm AIO for your CPU, I'd recommend mounting it to the top as an intake and using the front and back fans as exhaust. Bringing cool air into the case will reduce CPU temps better than pushing warmer air out of the radiator.

> What happens if I put a HF fan in the front instead of a SP? are all front intake fans SP? Are SP fans louder?

The whole HF vs SP isn't worth worrying over (especially when it's a single degree of difference. You're better off using decent PWM fans or 3-pin fans connected to a fan controller like the Silverstone PWM Fan Hub.

> Is there a cooling/noise performance boost with bigger fans (120 vs 140)?

Larger fans can push the same amount of air as smaller fans with less noise. They can also push more air at the same noise level as smaller fans. This doesn't apply to you since you cannot fit 140mm fans in your case.

If noise is a concern, I mounted a 120mm basic Cooler Master fan in front of my 5.25" drive bays to cool my HDDs and SSD (used 3.5" to 5.25" brackets, did this to remove the 3.5" drive bays for better air flow). There is no noticeable noise difference with the additional fan, but all 3 drives have dropped 10°C.
> What other factors should I be concerned about?

Dust. Get fan filters and clean them out regularly. I don't have any pets, but I do have carpet in my bedroom that gets vacuumed never rather infrequently.

> I'm planning on getting budget Corsair fans with LEDs (not rgb because I have no mobo headers). Anything I should know?

Keep them clean.

I bought this: [fan hub!] (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504842192&sr=8-1&keywords=Silverstone+fan+hub) and have 4 ML120, you can modify the speed of the fans with your motherboard or with speedfan, the only problem is that if you plug your ml140 it will run at the same rpm as the others fans, to control the rpm of your fans you need to plug one fan to the corner of the hub that is marked, also you can plug and control up to 8 fans

Just got some liquid metal today! ...also 4x 40mm and 2x 60mm Noctuas (I have a problem with buying crap on amazon.) Going to see if I can fit the 60's in there along the top grill - I hate opening this thing up so I haven't bothered to actually measure it. I got this controller to run the fans. Pretty sure I'l either fry the mobo or my computer is going to fly away.

I'll make a separate post after I cram the fans in there, but I'm also going to try to actually install the backplate on my cooler so it might not be a great control test.

These fan hubs work well.

Little bit more but it's got more options: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I?colid=2OKWGG5MJEQ83&coliid=I189Q7Q4LM2NI5&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

You can buy a fan hub that is powered off of SATA from your PSU. Up to 8 fans off of one header. I was doing this myself, but I could not control the fan speed from my BIOS. It was at full throttle all the time. Here I found out the issue was specific to Gigabyte mobos. I abandoned the hub and went with splitters. I'm fortunate to have 3 headers on my mobo, so I only needed to split each of them once to accomodate 6 fans.

Besides the issue without being able to control speed.... the hub was great and worked as advertised. Maybe you can try this and have better luck than me.

The ML fans have considerably more static pressure and slightly more CFM than the phanteks. Since the ML fans don't have a typical bearing like others, they should last decently longer as well. I've used both and the ML ones are definitely the superior fan. If you get the non-pro model of the ml120s, you can actually get them for the exact same price as those phanteks ones (although the non pros only come as a 2 pack iirc):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ImTqDb3PV6ZZZ

Only difference between the pros and non pros are blade color and rubber at the corners.

Only thing I recommend is taking a look at the Corsair ML 120. I don't know if you have specific reasons for getting the Noctua ones, but from experience I can say that the ML120's are great, and the 2-pack is cheaper than what you have listed. Grats on the build!

I've been running two ML120 Pros. They're currently $30 and perform nearly identically to the Noctuas, albeit a bit louder.

Like the build would only alter two things from personal experience the case and Noctua fan for better aesthetics and flow.

​

Case NZXT H500 Amazon 69.99$ and Fan Corsair ML120 29.33$ you get two fans =)

Thanks a lot! I ordered 2 of these :)

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01G5I6MRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was thinking of putting one in the rear and one on the bottom (case is thermaltake v21 with 1 200mm fan in the front) both with the exhaust side facing outside from the case, does it sound good?

Just odd's-&-ends.

• Get a external USB 3.0 CD read/write drive (don't put a power sucker in the machine) (sub $30).
  
  
• A cheap RGB strip or two since you have a side window. I'd put one on the top nearest the window edge they don't have to blink set them just to soft white if your not a blinky fan. It will help the esthetics. (sub $20)
  
  
• If you put in a couple RBG strips get a cheap fan splitter and hide it on the back motherboard plate put all of your lights and fans into it so you only need to run one cable to the fan pins on the mother board, it's just a cleaner look. You can get a 8x4-Pin for sub $15.
  
  
• Toss all of the fans that came with the case and get at least some Corsair ML120 for £23.68 a two pack. Or the rad rgb versions if you dare. There just better fans for air flow and noise reduction.

I let my 11 year old do it. Super easy. Here's what I used. Got 1 splitter and 2 fans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=psdc_11036291_t2_B00OP2PUB8

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Splitter-Duplicator-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01N0XQ7XC

Case fan splitters.

With that few fans you can get a PWM splitter like https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Splitter-Duplicator-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/

Get a fan splitter.

If you only have one header you need one. Here's an example.

Not totally sure for Vega 64, but on NVIDIA cards you need an adapter cable to connect the fans to the card.

Adapter looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-CA-PWM-02-Adapter-Sleeved-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA

then you'll need a splitter to power both fans like this https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Splitter-Duplicator-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P69DGEVF9YJ0AT2TTA9R

You should buy a fan splitter that connects directly to the fan header like this one. You could also buy this one if you know you won't be needing 4 fans any time soon.

Just get this for your fans if you're going to use the full fan capacity of the case, but you won't need any if you only use the preinstalled ones. And of course if the mobo doesn't come with any. If the mobo come with one splitter, just buy the one pack of this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/?tag=pcpapi-20

Ahh i see.

You can get a fan hub or pwm splitter for pretty cheep

DeepCool Fan HUB CPU Cooler Powers up to 4 Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YD7B0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p83TBb8YR29TC
Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S83TBbCHG6HJT

you mean this one?

I wanted to use it at first, but i can't find it on any store in my country, and i don't want to wait 2 months shipping for it.

This is what I mean.

Meh, they are all the same. This one looks good.

Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_BIjRAbKYK6SK5

> Is it somehow possible to connect one or two more fans to the PC?

Fan splitters or a PSU fan adapter (beware, the last one can get pretty loud).

> how often do you change thermal paste and how do you remove it?

Not really often, once every year or so, maybe every other year. Just remember to change it everytime you remove the CPU cooler.

Installed 2 of these in the front as Intake and 1 in the top as exhaust.

Installed this fan in the back as exhaust.

As an FYI these fans only come with enough sound absorber pads in the color you choose to fit one side of the fan, if you want to fit both side with the same color you will need to order a box of pads in that color.

They do exist... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aIZpDbNNAHDAB

Suggestions on quiet case fans?

I just finished building a Ryzen 1800x / GTX 1070 Ti PC in a Fractal Nano S case. Things are pretty good, but the default Fractal case fans seem awfully noisy, particularly the 120mm exhaust at the back.

I tested it out, and I do need to run case fans: My CPU temp goes from 54C under prime95 with the fans on, to >68C with them off.

As per the above test with case fans unplugged, it is DEFINITELY the case fans making the noise and not something else.

That being said, I'd like some quieter fans.

Would Noctua A14 and S12 running off one 4 pin splitter for PWM control be a good choice?

Something different?

Voila:

Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wwxUBbJ4NYZ10

Brown, $21. Black $24. Does math work differently where you're from?

Hey, nothing wrong with asking questions. Which slot is your AIO currently connected to, the rear? Here's what I'd recommend to use as your top exhaust fan:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium/dp/B07655KF5C

These are what I’m using on my radiators. I’m using the white pads so they’ll glow whatever color my rgb is set to. I think noctua just did the tan/brown for a while to get the brand recognition and get their name out there, now they can afford to branch out a little bit.

My bad. I write in Word first and that happens frequently when I copy over cause Reddit is whack. I usually catch it.

These are Deepcool with a flow of 56.5, which is pretty much average. With 4 fans, it’s overkill. I think you’re vastly over estimating how much cooling you need especially if you are using a CPU cooler.

They’ll be more than enough. Same CFL as the Corsair LEDs I use and I have similar build for my personal and it’s basically arctic winter in there. Even for overclocking.

All the Youtubers have done their fan tests and after 2 fans, you hit pretty hard diminishing marginal returns. 3 is solid and I use 4 for looks and in case one fails or something.

The Arctic P12 PWM fans are pretty popular if you want non-colored ones. Also 50-ish CFL.

Good luck with everything!

https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-Compatible-Controlled-Motherboard-Controller/dp/B07HN199YJ/

These should work, they have the Mystic Light logo, and connect to the 4-pin 12V RGB header.

The 3-pin 5v header is for addressable RGB.

Here are some budget RGB fans to help fill out the case.


I have five in my O11 Dynamic now and 4 more going in when my radiators show up.

It doesn't matter if you connect a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin header/slot and as for not having enough fan headers as long as you have an intake and an exhaust it won't matter too much or you can buy a fan splitter off most computer related stores. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484448052&sr=8-8&keywords=3+pin+splitter

Here is more of a build for your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $53.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $29.99 @ Adorama
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card | $124.88 @ OutletPC
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $55.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $45.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $83.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor | $141.98 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $14.49 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $821.43
| Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
| Total | $751.43
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-26 21:37 EDT-0400 |

Edit: You'll need this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469583794&sr=8-1&keywords=4+pin+FAN+SPLITTER

Considering the small form factor and the very little airflow inside, the cpu temps are great. Idle temps range from 33°C-to 39°C sometimes, when I don't turn on the AC and the room temperature climbs above 30°C.

Noise levels are fine. I never hear the thing. I don't sit close to the case, though. But even if I would, then the only thing I would hear is the gpu under pressure, when gaming. In a very silent room, you will be able to hear the fan spinning, when you are close by, but subjectively speaking it is very silent.

As for the Noctua case fans, supporting the gpu: you might need a fan splitter cable, depending on your motherboard. Mine only had one 4 pin socket to spare, so I ended up getting this cable.

Edit: Just wanted to add that the gpu in the pictures is a 980Ti and not a 970, like I had in mind for the build.

So here's the link. Your motherboard will control the speed based on how hot it is.

Get this: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465025128&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+fan+splitter

The CPF01 will let you put two fans into one header. The CPF04 will let you put 4 fans into one header. They will all be controlled by temp of the system so long as your fans have the 3 or 4 pin connectors that fit with these products.

It seems like your mobo isn't designed to handle more fans than that.

I did some digging. You do have options- you can buy a splitter for a couple bucks and connect multiple fans to a single plug (the three pronged plugs should fit into the four pronged, um, prongs). Or you can splice the wires together, but you'd better know what you're doing there. Or buy a better mobo (though that doesn't seem like it'd be an option).

something like this would work okay. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473528343&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter. Though you wont fit all of your fans, unless you get two and also plug the CPU fan this way. but it will make the other fan a slave to the CPU.

even if the splitter is 4 pins and the fans are 3 pins, you can still put the fans into it, as the fourth pin is only used for PWM, and isn't required, just make sure you put it in correctly. There are also fan splitters that split into three, but i read they aren't recommended. You could also get a fan hub which allows for more fans, but i think you need to power it by molex.

You should be fine as of right now to just have one fan going. Connect the exhaust fan up

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488321943&sr=8-2&keywords=pmw+splitter

Your motherboard has 6x 4-pin fan headers based on the manufacturer's specs, all of which should work with any fans regardless of what they are called.

>1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x CPU OPT Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin)
1 x AIO_PUMP connector (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x W_PUMP+ connector (1 x 4 -pin)

If you already make use of all of those, here's the first example of a splitter on Amazon which still allows the motherboard to control two fans together via voltage or PWM.

Okay, one thing at a time:

1 - Your motherboard seems to only have one fan port for case fans, and the one for your CPU cooler. You don't necessarily need to plug in both of your case fans, but if you want to, you'll need to grab a splitter cable to turn that one plug into 2, [like this one on amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417755776&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter) (Probably available more conveniently and cheaper at an electronics store, but I don't know what those stores are in the US [assuming you are] as I'm in the UK).

2 - Your motherboard's fan ports have 4 ports because they support PWM fans that can be speed controlled by software. Your fans don't have cables to support that, so they'll just run at 100% the whole time unless you remove them and replace the case fans with PWM case fans. Again, not a problem, won't harm them to run at 100% really, just might be a bit noisier than necessary. The plastic connector on the fans and the motherboard will likely only fit together one way around, if not, check the motherboard manual and that'll tell you which pin is the PWM pin, connect the cable so that that pin isn't connected to anything.

3 - Which audio cable? The one for the case audio ports? That should slide on as easily as the rest of the case cables for the power button etc, make sure you're putting it in the right place but it should go in fairly easily. Some parts do just take quite a push to get in at times.

4 - Your case might not have a firewire port, and nothing uses firewire these days anyway, you'll likely never use the port, don't worry about that.

5 - If the power cords melt, you've got bigger problems, things shouldn't get that hot in the case. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere, if you have cable management slots in the case on the less-open side, then pull them through there and just leave them out of the way.

I'm thinking of ordering this, what do you think?
https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482172370&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter

In the /r/buildapc community we sometimes use fan splitters. Take a look at those.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKKQ/

Boom

Product page

You might also be interested in these red AF120 Quiet Edition fans.

[I'm not editing in case you already read my last comment]

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-AF120-Edition-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1409284029&sr=8-12&keywords=120mm+case+fan

I should clarify - they should be the LEDs in the outer housing so that the light is static instead of the new design where the blades themselves are lit and spinning which causes the lines to appear.

This: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524496233&sr=8-3&keywords=led+case+fan&dpID=51VHmYAnSkL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

VS This: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pressure-Circular-Anti-Vibration-CL-F038-PL12BU/dp/B00VRKVGP0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524496451&sr=8-4&keywords=led+case+fan&dpID=41yx9RsGA-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456937258&sr=8-2&keywords=red+120mm+fan

Wink wink

Plenty of reviews... https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486656893&sr=8-1&keywords=af120

Corsair ML120 Pro radiator fans - $24.99 each

Corsair AF120 everywhere else - 2 pack for $18.39

Don't use ML120 Pro fans as case fans, they are cut and designed to push air through objects, for example, a radiator. Now, you CAN use them as case fans, but here let me know you my setup. I use ML140 Pros Reds on my radiator, and AF140 Red for exhaust.

My setup .. I am purchasing another AF120 red for the bottom.

With your case.. it's a silent designed case, the intakes are restricted, which is probably why you see higher temperatures. What I would do if I was in your shoes. I would mount AF (airflow) fans in the front to intake cool air, mount my radiator up top with 2 pressure fans like the SP or ML series (ML preferred) pushing out and through the radiator to exit the case, and 1 AF fan for exhaust. If you have a spot on the bottom for a fan, 1 AF fan down there as close to the GPU as you can get it would be perfect, but set it to a profile with a moderate speed so it's not creating too much turbulence with the front intake fans. The key is you want a steady flow, not a bunch of air twirling in the case.

Corsair AF120's are really good fans

they also have a non-LED version if you don't like disco desktops

probably going to have a tough time selling those fans fyi

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479911180&sr=8-3&keywords=corsair+fan

yes, but id recommend getting a couple of intake fans: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1ERIBJ66BK9UO&keywords=120+mm+case+fans&qid=1556200305&s=gateway&sprefix=120+mm+case%2Caps%2C276&sr=8-4-spell

corsair is a reliable brand, and these are currently on sale for $20 ($50-$30)

Hence the noise lol

Edit: guess I was mistaken, it was more like 45$:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L64NFYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! So a couple things, since that photo, I've rotated the cpu cooler to send air out the back and its been working great. It's cooling an i7-7700k and the highest temp I got to during a stress test last night was 66c at stock voltage and speed. I'm getting a kraken x52 to replace that though, so things should be even better. I'll probably mount that radiator to the top if it fits.

This is the ram I have, which I actually might be selling soon. They work great. Haven't had any issues and I haven't even enabled the xmp profile yet.

Two of the fans on the right came with the case. The two corsair fans you see in the photo are the AF120 models I believe (they glow red). I used to have a Fury X so I had that radiator mounted to the top and used to just have a stock cooler on my i5-6500. I think the ventilation is pretty good, but I'll see what temps I get with the new cooler. Might consider taking the front cover off to increase airflow.

As for tips, I'd say make sure you know what connectors you need for your PSU and connect them all before installing it all cause that area can get tight. Depending on the cpu cooler you have, you might it might be a little tight to install the fan connectors on the top of your mobo. Make sure you know which way your fans are pushing air and plan ahead. Otherwise you'll just annoy yourself with taking them on and off of the case haha.

I should be getting my new parts today, so after I install it all, I can send you an updated photo if you'd like. Feel free to PM if you have any other questions

I thought it was $22 for two. Let me see if I can get you a link

Apologies. They are 120s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/social/swf/B00F6S0XJO/o=ShareProduct/ref=tsm_1_aw_swf_d_sp?vs=1

Any "quiet edition" fan like these should do the trick.

Those AF120's are much cheaper new than you are selling them for:

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE

Also, the SP120's are actually SP120L fans.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRKVG9Q/ref=twister_B00WW1H260?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464327292&sr=1-1&keywords=white+fan

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premier-140mm-Cooling-PH-F140SP_BK_WLED/dp/B00L6CKOYS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464327292&sr=1-2&keywords=white+fan

I hear the phanteks fans are more quiet.

https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-Airflow-CO-9050016-WLED/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538953623&sr=8-1&keywords=af120&th=1

White and blues are on sale. 2 for $25.

Yes, Corsair air series, AF120mm

I only have these two fans on i7-6700K air cooled and GTX1070; no OC. Things runs cool. Love the look of the case. Got the white version for $60.

Yes - we made one this year and used it. The biggest lesson we learned was that the usb powered fan we used (https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G05A2MU&pd_rd_r=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M&pd_rd_w=lIUEB&pd_rd_wg=eBdrH&psc=1&refRID=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M) had quite a low air flow rate, which was the achilles heel of the cooler.

Combined with the fact that the tents were not insulated, it did not appreciably decrease the overall temperature in the tent - you would have been better off with just a more powerful, normal fan.

However, the air coming out of the swamp cooler was definitely much colder - so if you duct it right into your face, it was awesome - but this meant only the person in front of the duct got the cooling action.

If you do it, I recommend:

• get maximum fan power
  
• make sure you duct it properly so you can direct airflow exactly where it needs to go
  
• add an insulating layer to tent (the military learned the importance of this: http://sprayfoam.com/foam-news/spray-foam-insulation-saving-lives-billions-of-dollars-in-iraq-afghanistan/1160)

Mine ran very hot when I first received it. They really should have a small fan inside the USG 3P.

After a few days I purchased a USB Fan that I plugged into my Raspberry Pi next to it, and it runs much much cooler. I bought this one and run in at the slowest speed. It's been great, very quiet.

huh, never notice that with mine. Get one of these, I use it with my receiver since it sits inside a cabinet. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504026894&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+fan

Don't run an extension cord into your shower.

I'd suggest cutting a piece of coroplast to fit the open window, and then make a round hole in the coroplast to fit something like:

A USB fan run from a phone-recharging battery-pack

An O2COOL battery fan with rechargeable batteries

An automotive aux cooling fan run from a 12v battery pack (such as a pack for radio-control model cars)

The TB15 was $299 when it was on sale from Dell.

The main issue with the TB15 was that Dell's branded Wi-Fi cards were creating a lot of interference with the Thunderbolt 3 chip due to improper shielding in the dock. If you have an Intel or Killer Wireless Wi-Fi card, thus won't be a issue for you.

Overheating is a secondary issue and only occurs when the Ethernet Jack is plugged in or if the rear USB ports are used while multiple monitors are plugged into the dock. I placed the dock on top of this fan and the problem is solved.

So no, you're not better off in dongle hell. If you're getting a TB15 around $100, then it is pretty close to the of a dual monitor TB3 dongle anyway but it is much more capable.

You may even be able to leverage Dell into replacing the TB15 with the new TB16 when it is released. There's a lot of us that will be trying that pretty soon.

Could be a faulty receiver. You could try adding a USB fan and connect it to receiver so it turns on/off with it.

This is the one I use and it works well.

well PC fans are already designed for small spaces. you're only trying to ventilate a few cubic feet of air with a space bucket/tote, after all. I've read that the rule for grow tents is to replace all the air inside every three minutes. an average 80mm PC fan is rated for 30CFM or so, and 5 gallons is only 0.67 cubic feet - even a tiny 80mm fan is plenty. they're also quieter than desk fans, and some manufacturers make high static pressure PC fans that can handle a small carbon filter.

wiring fans to AC adapters does require a bit more spending and work, but AC fans like this one are plug-and-play, though a bit louder than I would want.

It's not thus far, plenty of air flow if all was running at once maybe. The Xbox is the only one that may... but these days I use it mainly to watch tv occasionally with a leaf antenna/tv tuner . Will get a couple of these fans to increase cooling on each square.

These fans come wired together, have a multi-speed controller and a USB power plug


AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4JeJAb09RANT5

This worked extremely well for me. I have one above and one below the USG.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_soKFAbA2DFRGR

I ran a power bar into the drawer as well so the only cord coming out is that one and the cat5.

I guess I was literally thinking lock/key...something like this

And for ventilation, something like this

The fans could be powered by your xbox, router, etc. I have an enclosed entertainment center (because I don't think any of the crap in it is particularly attractive). We have the model in this link and it came with two options for the middle doors (glass or just like the outer doors). I have two usb fans inside (one for above the shelf and one below) that just blow out of the back of the unit. I figure it's not exactly air tight and just assume it pulls air from the front mostly. I know that it is noticeably hotter if I turn the fans off.

[Here you go buddy] (https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418258&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+av+fans)

I did something similar to what you're trying to do here but instead of such a big fan I bought what are essentially PC case fans and cut two square holes, on the back cover of the TV unit, that were just the right size for each of the fans and used weather foam sealing/stripping around the openings where the fans will rest on to help dampen the noise from the vibration. I made sure to have the fans blow the air OUT of the enclosure and put silicone furniture bumpers on the cabinet door to create a small gap for air to go into the enclosure from the front.

The fan you have in there will be way too loud. The ones I linked come in a pair, are a lot quieter, and only need one power supply so you can either use the USB cable and power adapter that comes with the fan set, or use one of the USB ports from the Xbox One system. I don't yet have an Xbox One to test whether or not the USB ports only power when the system is on or if they're powered on all the time. If the USB ports only power when the system is on, using one of the USB on the Xbox might be the better option because the fans will turn on when the system is powered on. Using the supplied power adapter that comes with the fans requires the fans to be turned on manually.

I hope this helps.

P.S. For the love of everything that is holy, please DO NOT have the air blow into the enclosure, you will give your Xbox One an early death.

Something like this is probably easiest. Plug it right into the Synology’s USB ports or use an external AC adapter.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/

Well my ph is 5.6 as I'm using rainwater, I'm not sure wether to start adding nutes or not so im adding minuscule amounts with the water (too little and too watered down to measure). I currently have two output fans stacked one in front of the other (only temporary before I sort it out more) and no input fan yet.

The fans I'm using are :

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I6KKybDVKAY95

I had the same problem and found a solution. My bio cube is in my room over the garage, which is always warmer than the rest of the house. The biocube stayed at 81 all summer.

The solution is computer fans. I bought the one linked below, and fastened them on the outside of the upper back of the tank, against the holes. I used strips of Velcro, gluing one side of the Velcro to the fan, and the other to the tank. The Velcro then allowed for movement for the fans when I opened and closed the lid. One of the fans is blowing in and one is blowing out of the two holes.

This kept the temp a respectable 78 degrees. The constant evaporation did require more frequent water replacements, but it definitely does the trick.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0

Here's an album with more pics https://imgur.com/a/v5x6h8m
Components

• 2 Deep hive bodies - Mine are 8frame and juuust fit a 5gal bucket. 10 frame will fit more comfortably
  
• 1 piece of foam insulation for the bottom and some pieces of wood to keep the bucket ~6in above the bottom for air circulation. Carboard for the top.
  
• Temperature Controller $17 - includes a thermometer. I set it at 100F
  
• [2 variable speed PC fans with US Connection] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0) $15 & an old USB charger - For circulating air in the chamber and keeping the temp more consistent throughout. I put one fan blowing on low across the bulb and the other sucking air from the top and sending it down. There are probably cheaper fans too.
  
• Outlet box, Outlet, & outlet Cover - I used a GFCI outlet for a bit of added safety.
  
• Lamp chord & 75w incandescent bulb & piece of tin foil - First I tried a 40w bulb but it wouldnt get the chamber above 90F. Foil is to put between the bulb and bucket to avoid a hot spot on the bucket.
  
• Some romex or old lamp/extension chords to cut up and wire together the controller, outlet box, and lamp
  
• Wood stirring paddle $10 - 5gal of honey is pretty hard to stir. This beast gets the job done
  
  lmk if I can help with the wiring or anything. It's pretty straightforward. Enjoy!

Where did you get the fan? I've used this in the past: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/

I use it for my Android phones. Not as well thought out and cabled managed as your setup. Mine are Android phones placed on top of a fan like that but I don't have partitions figured out yet.

Get something like this & place them behind your PS4.  Granted I had to cut a hole in the back of our entertainment center to mount them but you can always just set them back there (depending on how your entertainment center situation is) and they will suck out the hot air as well as pull even more air into & through the console so you shouldn't hear it as often.


Since I did this I rarely hear my fan kick up besides it's "quiet" mode so it appears to be working well. 


I got these;


https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sr_1_9_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525198959&sr=1-9-spons&keywords=usb+entertainment+center+fans&psc=1


You can either plug them in & control them or have them pull power from the console. 

Check this out. 2 80mm fans that are powered by USB. THEY have speed control. High medium and low. Very quiet. Would be good to have outtake on high and intake on medium or low to create negative pressure for you filter if you plan on using one. Again, these fans are next to silent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498575226&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65#immersive-view_1498575239084

Thanks!

I'm running a Ledgle Led Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum UV IR Plant Grow Lamp for Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Veg and Flowering in a couple of small storage containers I got from Home Depot. I have two fans drawing in air and one blowing air out;

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

and I used this mylar with spray adhesive;

CoolGrows 2 Mil Mylar Film High Reflective Greenhouse Covering silver Foil Sheets for Grow Tent (4x25 FT)

I'm going 18 hours on/6 hours off.

I have a small CO2 generator I made with a couple of mason jars running a tube to the input fan. I also am running a humidified on low since I live in a very dry area.

The soil is a combo of organic Miracle Grow and some perlite;

8 Quarts xGarden Horticultural Grade Premium Perlite - Coarse and Chunky

Im a pro owner as well, and have also been on the improvement quest.

here a re a few Nexi youtube vids of upgrades he has done on his pro. as well i listed a few things i did to mine below.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH3zrRNOGfA&t=186s this one is how to change the capacitive sensor to inductive.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8X26UtLVw this one shows ytou how to install T8 anti backlash nuts. (Great if you suffer from constant Z leveling.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw&t=638s Quiet your printer down with high quality fan replacements i went with these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

​

https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w there is also this 37 min review from NJ Tech where he goes over various upgrades and mods to his Pro, i found this video very relatable and a decent watch. though i do like Nexi's idea of voltage splitting to run the fans instead of voltage step downs. also prefer the MB cooler bracket from NJ's video over Nexi's.

​

in addition to this stuff above in these videos(I have done most of these mods now), for me im running the TM firmware, with an Octoprint to control it, Wham Bam build plate on the way.

also have a permanent screen SD adapter installed with a cable that runs outside the case for easier repeat flashes. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

I would also recommend a right angle USB cable to connect to Octo as i dont care for the stock cable that hangs way off the side of the printer just dying to get knocked off or broken.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004NO0L4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​



​

Hope this stuff helps you out!

Cheers.

These guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind, with stepper dampeners, squash feet, and the Noctua fan , My printer is entirely noiseless until the part cooling fan turns on, which makes it noisy by comparison. It actually just the sound of it blasing air through the holes. Also, I made a typo in my original post which changed the meaning. I've fixed it.

There are both motherboard fan splitters and molex->fan adapters that you can find.

E: 3pin splitter | interesting molex adapter that I just came across

Sorry for the late response, anyhow, because the motherboard only has 1 system fan header, you may want to get either a 4 pin molex to 3pin fan adapter cable for the second case fan or a fan slitter cable:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483975373&sr=1-2&keywords=3pin+fan+to+molex

that or you may want to add a fan hub

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

You could get a fan controller or use some fan splitter cables and use speedfan or some other program to control the speeds of the fans.

Hey OP, I’ve used these guys and recommend them!

Yeah, velcro strips or zip ties are a good idea. I don't know how many fans that case has, but a fan spllitter would be nice because I know that mobo only has 1 sysfan header.


The power supply and motherboard should have all the other cables you need. And that 1060 does have HDMI out so if you have a cord you're good.

This seems like a silly question, but if you plug 2 PWM fans into a PWM splitter can you control each individually, or will the board only see them as a single fan?

I have the Thermaltake Core v21 and I want to add 1 additional fan as exhaust, but the mobo I am considering only has 1 header

Yeah you need a fan splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

so something like this will do the job?

Do note that molex will not let you adjust the speed so it will run at full speed. Instead you can buy a fan splitter allowing you to connect 2 fans to one header.

EDIT: Here is one

You will either have to use a PWM fan splitter or use a molex connector for one of the fans.

I have a 120mm case fan at the front, and a slim 80mm fan beside the CPU. However my motherboard only has one fan header for case fans.

I might have to use one of these [fan hub things] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=twister_B00U8ND39E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) to drive both fans which would probably cause the small fan to be noisy.

Judging from the photos, it actually only does have 1 spot for a system fan. If you want more than 1 fan to be connected to power, get a fan splitter, such as this one.

I have a fan related question. I'm new to pc building, and at the moment I'm trying to figure out how to power 5 fans from a motherboard that has 1 CPU fan header and 2 System fan headers (all 4pin). I was thinking of using the silverstone fan splitter on the 2 system fan headers which would power 4 fans, leaving me without power to 1 fan. I figured I shouldn't connect a splitter to the CPU fan header, so that's out of the question I think. Another suggestion I saw was using Molex, but I'm not too comfortable with how that all works. So anyone have any suggestions for the best course of action here? Also I may not even need 5 fans, only 4, so if a lot people recommend not using a 5th fan then I guess I can do that.

Here is my case, motherboard, and splitter (if I'll be using it):

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-bfcsnb150wwwbsp

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-b85mg43

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464395329&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter

Proabably means two fan headers in addition to the cpu fan header.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467667593&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+header+splitter
What I use though.

This will allow you to plug 3 fans into 1 fan header. Note that all 3 fans will run at the same speed though. So when you control the speed of 1 fan, it actually controls the speed of all 3.

Check your cpu cooler. My Antec Kuhler had a pass-through 4-pin connector, so I didn't need a splitter.


I don't know if daisy-chaining 3 fan connectors is a bad idea. You should probably check on that. A fan splitter looks like this.

Those do not.

You can do that with 4 pin fans using something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409186501&sr=1-1&keywords=4+pin+fan+splitter Just watch the load on your fan port.

You can not speed control 3 pins without either a speed controller or an adapter with a resistor.

Testing new things, I need your help.

> /r/theydidthemath has a neat 'points' system that I feel would be super awesome to have in our Daily Simple Questions thread. If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

> This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. I don't know what these points will be used for or if this feature will be a permanent thing. This is where you come in. If there's a good response and it works like I want it to, this could be a great way to incentivize people helping.

Now, get out there and help some people!

-\/u\/eegras

----

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread. There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> I have a 1TB HDD for mass storage (and 128gb for OS), being the PC enthusiast that I am, I want to run on SSD only storage from this point on.
> I want to get a 500GB SSD (750 EVO) this month, and the coming few months 1 SSD of 500Gigs at a time.
>
> Is this a smart idea or am I better off saving money for 1 big 1TB or 2TB SSD?
>
> In the netherlands, the 750 EVO 500GB is around 120 euros

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p6jnr

----

> I've just installed Windows 10. What are some things that I should remove? I found this thread but it's like a year old so I don't know if the same things still apply https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f10k0/things_to_removedisable_in_windows_10/

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5ss4

----

> hello
> i've got a problem with my pc but i'm not sure what it is
> my setup is
> 970 gtx
> i5 4590
> 2x8gb ram
> b85 mb
> anyway, its nothing unusual
> When i play overwatch on high settings my pc turns off after really short duration of playing. I don't get any fps drops or any weird things going. Same happend in word of tanks beta hd.
> Ive got OCZ 600W stealth stream 2 PSU, the power seems to be enough but as far as i looked for answers everyone says its psu. When i did a stress test in furmark it didn't turn off, my psu is a bit older then rest of my pc.
> Is there a way to check if its psu or any other component failing?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5iyg

----

> Are there any really clear UV reactive dyes I could use for my system? I just have clear distilled water in my loop but I'd love for it to also be UV reactive without making it also colored.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7opu5s

----

> What's an, or some, ideal rectangular tables for this space right here: http://i.imgur.com/y6KBwP1.jpg
> As you can see it's a pretty garbage table and I'm willing to get rid of it as quick as possible, as well as organize the things on the table.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oni4l

----

> Anyone know if the AM1M-A board supports hot-swapping?
>
> Also - how do you set a particular drive to be marked as external? is it done by the bios or os?
> Thanks

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7ojsn9

----

> Sata power cable on this CX 500 is too fat to be able to plug into the SSD, any recommendations on extensions?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oe85n

----

> Good place for buying custom sized mousepads?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7odl76

----

> Where is AMD Catalyst Control Center saved by default? I want to overclock my monitor and can't figure it out.
>
> Edit. Advanced settings through AMD Preferences.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oc2w8

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> EA is asking me to verify my game (BF4) but when i bought it didnt come with a verification code since i bought via origin store, is this normal?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o8bmp

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> so I own the Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case and I really want my setup to start going a color theme or something like that do I need to buy a new case with a window. Im kinda wanting to go black and red a little because of my brand new HyperX Cloud 2s any one have suggestions? Is there anything I can do to my current setup to make it start following a theme? here is my current build PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Motherboard | MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $55.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Memory | Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $35.98 @ Newegg
> Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
> Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card | $220.00
> Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
> Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.49 @ SuperBiiz
> Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $0.00
> Monitor | Samsung 2333T 23.0" Monitor | $100.00
> Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard | $145.28 @ B&H
> Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $91.99 @ Newegg
> Other| Tax| $60.00
> Other| Dell Premium 6-Button USB Laser Scroll Mouse J660D| $0.00
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $979.60
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $964.60
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 14:53 EDT-0400 |

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o6g5c

----

> http://pcpartpicker.com/list/46wfyf
> Will these parts fit in the case? It's a Mini ITX build.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5liu

----

> Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)
>
> Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5aw2

----

> I'm using my mouse with a bungee cord (for cable management) and the mouse cable is developing a small kink. Any tips for straightening these out?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o4ngp

----

> I am using an NZXT Grid V2 fan controller, does anyone know if I have to actually be running CAM in order for my fan profiles to be active?
>
> And does anyone have any recommendations for a monitor mount/stand for a 27 and 24 inch pair of monitors?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_152016/d7o0x4k

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User | Points
-----|-------
Trazac | 14
Flying_Spaghetti\ | 7
thatgermanperson | 6
rehpotsirhc123 | 6
Xolandi | 3
TehThyz | 3
saldytuwas | 2
ImpatientPedant | 2
ITXorBust | 2
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Sayakai | 2
Rivin2e | 2




----

I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)

Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

This is a 4 pin splitter. You can find 3 pin splitters as well.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $46.98 @ Newegg
Memory | *Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $79.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | *Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $67.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB GAMING X Video Card | $222.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | *Rosewill Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $816.68
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 02:05 EST-0500 |

I'm reigning in your build quite a bit because it's overkill for what you stated.

First, stepped down the motherboard to an H110. It's a lot cheaper and will still have all the ports you need. You can step this back up to an H170m if you think you'll want more than 32GB RAM someday, or something like dual GPU's. The mobo only comes with one case fan controller so I'd get a splitter to hook up at least two, one intake, one exhaust.

Next I set the memory to a parametric filter for cheapest 16GB. I've never heard of RAM being a bottleneck if you have enough and 16GB will cover all modern titles with room to spare.

I stepped the SSD up to a Samsung for reliability. Since this is going to be your primary drive, I wouldn't risk it on an off-brand, especially since SSD's tend to fail catastrophically when they do fail.

The GPU I brought down to an RX480. I personally prefer AMD cards for cheaper FreeSync monitors and better driver support over the GTX1060. I prefer the MSI Gaming X card. It runs cooler and quieter on average than other cards, and tends to clock higher, even compared to 8GB versions.

The choice between 4GB and 8GB is mostly about textures in the game. For example do you play Skyrim with tons of HD texture packs? It looks like you can afford the $40 difference so I'd grab the 8GB just to be safe.

I'm not sure you need the optical drive at all. When was the last time you used one?

From personal experience I can say this setup will run most games on Ultra settings with frames to spare. Now if you have a 1k budget, we can take this another way and crank this all up a level.

EDIT: Yes, this will have LAN networking and 5.1 channel surround audio built into the motherboard.

EDIT2: If you wanted to go as high as the $1.2k range, you can upgrade the CPU and GPU and crush everything, including reliable 4k gaming. Shave off that extra $10 by losing the optical drive or changing the case.

A motherboard may not have enough fan headers to power all the fans in a case. Yours, for example, only has 2 chassis fan headers. Since you'll have 4 fans, you can get a fan controller like the GRID+ to power all your fans. A simpler solution I'd recommend is getting two of these fan splitters, which will let you plug both exhaust fans into one fan header and both Corsair intake fans into another header.

When you say cooler master are you talking about 1 of the 2 fans or a closed loop water cooler?

Are your fans PWM fans that can adjust speed based on temperature? If they are you want something like this if the aren't PWM fans then /u/Skyshapers suggestion should work just fine.

If you go molex those fans will always run at 100% I believe (someone correct me if I am wrong). If you have a header that is 4pin PWM, I would recommend buying a fan splitter -> https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

If you are really feeling ballys and want to go all out you can buy a fan controller (100% don't need to do this).

The reason why I am recommending going this route is running fans at 100% can be very loud (I once had a 80mm fan run at 100% which ran at ridiculous RPMS (it was like a mini vaccuum running 24/7)). One of the dumbest purchases I have ever made. I sure those three fans won't get as loud as my 80mm fan but they might be loud enough to always hear if you catch my drift.

Anyway to answer your question you can absolutely daisy chain the fans together (via molexs). Molex voltage is 12V and has a max of current is 11A. Fan's typically take up .5A I believe, so 100% you can run 3 fans on one molex.

You should look up Fan Splitters as that seems like the easiest option. Don't have experience using myself but heard of others using...

Example product: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

You can pick up a fan splitter for real cheap and plug in both fans. Your PSU should also have a molex connector so you can plug your fans directly into the power supply. The disadvantage to that, though, is they will run at full speed all the time.

Something like this can split one PWM fan header into two: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

I think you'd have to double check the power draw. Most corsair fans pull .3 amps and each header on the commander pro supports 1 amp. So you can split one into 3 in this case

Thank you so much for the response and info!

I saw this review on Amazon. What do you think?

That person also links to the following products. How essential/necessary do you think they would be to the node-804? I've read some other review that don't highlight suggestions as the review above does. What are your thoughts?

• SilverStone Technology 3.5-Inch to 2 X 2.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive HDD / SSD Bay Converter, Silver (SDP08)''
  
  
• Monoprice 108794 24-Inch 4-Pin Molex Male to 4 15-Pin SATA II Female Power Cable Net Jacket
  
  
• StarTech.com 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable (PYO4SATA)
  
  
• SilverStone Technology All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01)
  
  Unfortunately I'm in a strange situation where I don't have as much time as I'd like to review/research for the absolute best route to go -- and I'm in need of making a decision very soon.
  
  I'm totally cool with building, although I must say that I'm not as experienced as I would like -- however, I will have time on my hands to learn what is needed to build the setup I decide to purchase.
  
  Any and all info/feedback is most welcome! Thanks!

Oh, and what about this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496515707&sr=8-1&keywords=fan%2Bheader&th=1 Shouldn't I just get this one instead?

Yeah, this is one example.

Is there any danger to connecting multiple fans to a single mobo fan header using a splitter like this one?

I'm concerned about the fans trying to draw more power than the header is rated for, but maybe I'm just being paranoid...

Have done and now got the cpu cooler to an aio but it's not seating all the way to go here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ?th=1.

Nice build!

If you don't have enough fan ports use one of these

Also, for the dual case fans, you may need to get a fan splitter since the motherboard only have one chassis fan header.

can i use this on my 4 pin cpu fan connector to use the cpu fan and a 120 mm case fan ? I have the asrock h97 itx/ac mainboard and want to use 3 fans.
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

You will want something like this

Wait, are you asking for a physical location of where to put it? It doesn't look like there is a place. Is the side a window? I'm assuming there's no fan mount on the side panel you took off.

Not hard at all. Something like this would be what you need:

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ#Ask

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.


If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.


Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

Fan splitter's the way to go here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ?th=1

Hello! I bought the following Y splitters from amazon and they work well. I have 6 fans off 3 headers. Only my exhaust fan is on it's own.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481904628&sr=8-5&keywords=4+pin+y+splitter

a fan splitter would probably work since they use the same connector. here's one you can buy from amazon for $8.75 and you can find similar products on your local amazon if you aren't in the US.

You can use any kind of fan hub, like this one. Even though it is 4-pin you can still use it for 3-pin fans.

here is a splitter

So yes, they exist, and as far as I'm aware it shouldn't have anything to do with a molex connection. What did you mean?

You could get a splitter: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ

Yes, you can plug a 3pin fan into a 4pin header.

Yeah so at the moment your pump is regulating the Fans a well. I got a Corsair H80i watercooling and I had to split it.
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ
I have no experience with an optional (CPU_OPT) so this could work as well.

I'm at work for a little longer but they are these:

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1452053704&sr=1-2&keywords=pwm+y+splitter

I bought a couple but never ended up using them lol, let me know if they work.

something like this one :)

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449336981&sr=1-1&keywords=fan+splitter

even though the fan connector part if 4 pins, 3 pins will still plug into it, if you look below on the question area below the item on the link i gave you :)

The spec sheet on Newegg says it has two case fan headers. But I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480143054&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+fan+splitter) and I like it, it seems well sleeved and pretty durable.

Something like this would work?

That sets my mind to ease about the front USB C. But on the fans, there is only one CPU_FAN, AIOPUMP, and CHA_FAN. So I could connect something like this (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ) to the Chassis fan header and split 2 Noctua fans off the one header?

one more possible version with motherboard that has 2 case fan headers (4pin)

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/634h3b if you wanted to add one more fan to the case or you can use previous version but you would need to buy pwm fan splitter

(something like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ)

You can still use splitters. I have two fans on my cpu cooler and five in the case. I only have two fan headers with PWM control, which is the best type of fan control (the other one is voltage control).

So the CPU fans use a 2-way PWM splitter and connect to a motherboard fan header with PWM control.

Four of the case fans (3x front 1x back) all connect to a 4-way PWM splitter. The 4-way splitter then connects to the last motherboard PWM fan header, plus a separate molex connector for power as 4 fans can be a bit much for one motherboard header.

The final fan is an exhaust fan positioned in the door, it's connected to the motherboard directly using one of the fan headers that are voltage controlled.

Ive just ordered this. Will this be fine? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Correct me if I'm wrong, but are your fans 4-pin (PWM)? Before you make a decision on getting a new mobo, look at this:

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16812162059

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474271788&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pwm+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=31CHO8viz1L&ref=plSrch

~It's a fan splitter cable. I'm trying to find one that would take power from the psu instead of the mobo; still looking. It'd be better to have the power coming from your psu (you would be able to control the fans because it would also connect to the mobo. Aah, found it just as I was typing this & would recommend this if you don't want to deal with buying a new mobo & moving the cpu:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DYQRFY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474272092&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pwm+splitter+that+plugs+into+psu


However, you could use the 2 cables mentioned before for your case fans & the other slot on your mobo for the cpu cooler. Hope I helped a little. What do you think?

You can use splitters like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 way splitter linked, if you look under "color" there is a 3 way one too.

I have both a 3 way and 2 way. They should work fine unless you have high speed fans that draw a lot of current, you can check the Amps your fans draw on the specs and as long as the total(for all fans on splitter) is less that like 1 Amp for a header it should be fine.


Also I happen to have your motherboard.

CPU optional apparently just matches whatever the CPU fan is putting out, so it isn't individually controllable.

You can use AIO pump as a fan header and control the speed, but not as well as other fan headers, and if I remember you can't have a fan on there stop/shut off.

Case 1, 2 and the M.2 fan header at the bottom are fully controllable fan headers, so I would suggest using those 3, with splitters for whatever you want to do.

I recently Upgraded to an Define R6 so I'm just using the included fan hub on that for the fans that I always have turned on, and then use Case 1+2 with splitters for fans that are normally off but turn on when the system heats up.

Or a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498339413&sr=8-4&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=pwn+fan+splitter

Can i install[ this PWM Fan splitter] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) twice through the motherboard for a total of 4 fans or will that cause problems?

My pc case came with this

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B008YD7B0M/ref=sxts_sxwds-puwylo_rv_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521131619&sr=1&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=3514140322&pd_rd_wg=hajHa&pf_rd_r=MAREPMW0Z0P02RYDSWK1&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B008YD7B0M&pd_rd_w=qRKAo&pf_rd_i=deepcool+fan+hub&pd_rd_r=3449078c-0caa-4b13-9854-12e637c87e0d&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Fan hub.

Is it safe to run a single fan splitter cable such as

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521131848&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fan+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=31CHO8viz1L&ref=plSrch

from one of the four sockets to power a set of Corsair SP 120 mm fans ? I have one remaining socket but two fans I need plugged in

Also, do not connect so many fans to the same system header,, unless you are sure those fans are consuming less current that the max rated amperage of that connection.

You are going to damage something if that connection gets overloaded.

Get a splitter cable like this (works with voltage control) -

https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could do a fan splitter. I have this one to connect my two front intake fans to the same header and it works well.

I got the twin pack (SP 120) to attach to my H50 (which is cooling an i5 3750K). The fans are very quiet and never spin higher even under full load. They're definitely worth the price, my only recommendation is that you get this Y-splitter cable so that both fans will run at the same speed.

The board is ASUS Z170A and the fans are

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484214530&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+fans

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484214530&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+fans

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B00F6S0XJO

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

Would you suggest these then? I already have some of the non LED ones but these are cheaper, are these still as good?

I have a few things which I will be posting tomorrow. I have prices in mind, just want to get a rough idea of the prices and how much it would cost to ship.

• Logitech G430 Headset. Bought from Amazon. Used for 7-8 months. Have original box.
  
  
• Corsair Spec 02 Case. Bought Open Box from Microcenter for $45. Comes with 2 fans (1 No LED Black; 1 Red LED). Will include additional front dust filters and 2 Corsair Red LED fans bought new from Amazon. Have original box and packaging.
  
  
• Seagate 500 GB 5400 rpm Thin Laptop Hard Drive. This came with a laptop I bought 2 days ago and was replaced with an SSD. So it's brand new.
  
  
• SteelSeries Apex Raw gaming wired keyboard. Bought refurbished from newegg 3 months ago.
  Have the original box it came in.
  
  
• Acer G226HQL 21.5-Inch Screen LED Monitor. Bought new on Amazon. Used for 7 months. Have original box and packaging.
  
  Thank you.

Corsair AF120 LED

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462314582&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+led+fan

https://www.amazon.it/Corsair-AF120-LED-ventola-elevato-illuminazione/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464349322&sr=8-1&keywords=case+fan+corsair ...i use this for the CPU also!

[this] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483290626&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+120mm+fan)is a good one right? I was looking to get this one a little later after i get the pc.

oh okay, i thought i needed more rpm guess not.

just ordered a 2 pack of these then:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=pcgamingbuilds02-20&s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478622755&sr=1-1&keywords=Corsair+Air+Series+AF120&linkCode=sl1&linkId=0fd2ddd6fdce63bf166381f1f3278b66

should suffice:)

thanks!

You may want a couple of 140mm case fans for intakes I have those and they're pretty good. But keyboards and mice are pretty subjective to taste and how much you want to spend. Like do you want a mechanical keyboard, rgb lights, macro buttons, full size, 60%, tenkeyless?

The fans I have are three pin only (Corsair AF120) Would that mean they would be at a constant speed and not alter with more strain and higher temps?

Would I need more than the 1 fan that comes with the Corsair 100R? I'm building my first PC either Friday or Saturday and I completely forgot about fans. If I need more what would be a somewhat cheap fan/fans I could get? I was looking at these but I have no idea about fans in general. If it's important here's my build. (also if the fans I linked either won't work or aren't good I'd prefer if the fans would either be not LED or red if possible).

Also, if I need more fans what would be the best setup for them? I've heard 1 in the front and 1 in the back is pretty good, but I know there's also spots for them on the top too, so I'm not entirely sure. Thanks!

I have the Corsair AF120 quiet edition for my build, and they are almost silent most of the time, except when playing demanding games. I have the non-led version, but they do come in a red version.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/?tag=pcpapi-20 would this work with the two stock fans that come with the case? Can the two stock fans act as the rear exhaust and top exhaust?

I bought the case few weeks ago.

I haven't bought the fans yet because i'm grabbing new gpu releases and a new monitor.

The fans I was planning to get are Link x6

Which fans did you wanna replace? If they are 120mm -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=twister_B00F93ZIEG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

140 -- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-CO-9050047-WW/dp/B01G5I6QH6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481683128&sr=1-3&keywords=140+mm+case+fan+led+red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CZANzbA2B4C7Z

would this work, I could use another case fan too and this comes with two for pretty cheap.

Is that fan better than https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1 this pack of two? Should I just get that pack or should I get two of the Noctua ones? Oh and how is that fan compared to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/?tag=pcpapi-20

Good point! Still, this particular regulator can output 3A - which should be more than sufficient, unless we're talking about a table fan. Take this rather big fan for instance. It pulls 400mA. I'm guessing that OP has a fan with less of a pull than that. So, with this fan, you have an overhead of 2.5A.

I'm guessing that the powersupply OP has is a battery pack. If that's the case, then the bottleneck when it comes to current is the regulator.

[SOLVED] I need a fan splitter that allows two of my fans to be RPM controlled by the MOBO I am currently using this one but only lets the fans run at 100%, and not be RPM controlled. Any suggestions (preferably black sleeved, but I'll take anything)


EDIT: I'm using the built-in "ASUS Fan Xpert" to control the 3pin fans.

EDIT2: Thanks Neverlife for the suggestion. It seems the BIOS was affecting the fans. After running the fan utility in UEFI all works well and dandy.

I have the same case. I moved the fans that came with it to the front of the case for intake and used these for exhaust:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whilst there is a difference between an i7 and i5, I have a i5 4690k paired with 16gb ram and an ssd, and use Photoshop and after effects and the performance on them is fantastic.

If you'll be doing 4k editing you may want an i7 but the i5 4460 is a great high performance CPU.

You may want to get http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00F6S0XJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452699051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Af120+led&dpPl=1&dpID=51VHmYAnSkL&ref=plSrch some of these case fans too.

Hmm ok I think im gonna go with the i5 + asrock killer when microcenter restocks on i5s as well as the evga 500b 500w. Do you think I should get LED light strips http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812170026 or LED fans http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER to go with my build/windowed case to give off a more red vibe?

Thanks for the tip. If it comes down to having to buy from a store I will probably go with these fans from Amazon.

I bought a couple of these when I first built my PC and they seem to move good air. They are a little on the noisy side at 100% since I have them plugged into a fan controller. I plan to plug my next fans into the motherboard and control their speed by CPU temp so they should be significantly quieter I think.

AF120 in pull, as in pulling air into the case.

This is the fans i'm getting
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AxmHAbKGVRQJP

I am getting two of each of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF140-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XK8?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20

I'm looking to add some case fans to my computer.

Here's the case I have

Here's the motherboard I have

The only fans I have are the two that come with the case, the front, bottom and top back. The top two are horizontal and either 120mm or 140mm, the bottom one is horizontal and 120mm, and the front one is vertical and 120mm.

As far as price, I'm fine with spending a bit of money, but I'd prefer something that isn't too pricey. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463272052&sr=8-5&keywords=corsair+fan) is what I was thinking of getting, but I saw that they were sleeve-bearing, and I've been told to avoid them. Any suggestions?

Unless you're comfortable about overclocking, don't bother with DDR4 3400. It's a huge pain to configure DDR4 to run at the high Mhz that it advertises itself as.

You should try to find a 4x8GB 2400Mhz kit in the $100 range to get quad channel goodness instead.

Here is a 4x8GB 2400Mhz DDR4 kit for around $115 after the 15% off coupon.

Your motherboard only has 4 memory stick slots, so I recommend getting a large amount of ram now - 32GB in one quad channel kit. (If you use all 4 slots for 16 GB now, you'll have to buy all new sticks to have more ram in the future. If you get just two sticks now, getting two more in the future might have compatibility issues with quad channel support.)

You should follow the other people's advice and get a smaller SSD and a 1TB HDD. WD Black is a good choiice. This will save you money and make a better PC.

The case you have is great, but I recommend picking up a couple more fans to help with cooling. This is a fine budget choice. They have different color LED's too.

Posted this question yesterday, but hope I've got a better chance here.

At the moment my only case fan is a 200mm intake fan. I want to add two case fans(one exhaust, one to cool the VRM) to get temps and noise down.

I've been looking at the following fan packs, all from Corsair:

• Air SP120
  
• Air AF120
  
• ML 120
  
  Which of these would be best for my intended use, or is there a better option with two fans for under €30?
  
  Thanks!

wahpow: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491692597&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+led+fans+white

What case do you have? Here a good deal: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458224802&sr=8-10&keywords=120mm+fan

Those are a bit expensive for fans IMO. I guess I'm just used to spending $5-10 for a fan. How does it compare to this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE

I'm set for the Cryorig M9i cooler, but as for the case fan, should I keep my preinstalled? It doesn't look to be of good quality, and if I should replace it, I found a nice pair of Corsair fans (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=twister_B00F93ZIEG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1). Not sure if these are of any better quality than the preinstalled, but if it isn't, I'll stick with the Noctua P12 redux.

There are generally two kinds of fans:

• Airflow fans - quieter, move a lot of air, but aren't so good when there is resistance to airflow (e.g. radiator).
  
  
• Static pressure fans - a little noisier, but much better when you are trying to push air through small holes.
  
  Case fans tend to be more on the Airflow side.
  
  As an example, there is a sale on amazon.ca right now for some air flow fans (one without LEDs! Sorry about the other two):
  
  
• Corsair 140 mm
  
  
• Corsair 140 mm (White LED)
  
  
• Corsair Twin-pack of 120 mm (White LED)
  

Corsair Air Series AF120 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fan Twin Pack - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bPSvzb2KKW4YK

I have them in my am3 build. https://s10.postimg.org/7lnf6qj49/20170604_223009.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE?keywords=case+fans&qid=1537287419&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Thank you VERY much! If I could ask you just one more question, would I be able to install one of these on the EVO (replacing the stock fan) and another (same size) on the rear exhaust, once again replacing the stock fan.

Thanks again for your help!

here

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=Corsair%2BAir%2BSeries%2BAF120%2BLED%2BQuiet%2BEdition&ie=UTF8&sr=8-1&linkCode=gs2&linkId=26953212e48f07b21cff131576b07bf3&tag=ckab00-20&th=1


These are highly reccommended. Looking for a pair of case fans for sub $40 CAD for the build - input?

Por que no los dos?

Seriously though, any of the options you listed are fine: one more exhaust, one more intake, do nothing. They are all valid.

For the typical single CPU, single GPU PC, having one intake and one exhaust fan helps a lot.

Beyond that, there started to be diminishing returns.

If your temps are fine, then don't stress about it too much.

How's this looking? (Final edits)

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7PwsGG

I am also looking at this pack of fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pc%2Bcase%2Bfan&qid=1554276770&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Glad I helped.

Your temperatures seem to be completely safe. 71 degrees is absolutely fine for your components, and you shouldn't worry about it. You should only be concerned if temperatures start exceeding 75-80 degrees.

As /u/Dyzleksi suggested, you could move the PC out of the furniture if you have room. This most likely will make the PC slightly cooler, and therefore a little quieter. If you want to make a huge difference to noise and heat, there are many options for cheap but quality fans:

You should start with a CPU cooler like this. This is one of the most popular ones on the market, I have one myself and it is silent.

Any aftermarket case fans will typically do the job much more effectively and quietly. Noctua is a good choice, as is Corsair. If you aren't willing to spend that much, cheaper options will also be a large improvement.

Bear in mind that case fans greatly affect overall performance. How many case fans do you currently have? (These are the fans attached to the case itself, not to components.) Most cheaper cases come with only 1 fan on the front (intake). You should install at least 1 more on the rear or top of the case as exhaust, for a total of 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan.

Grounding should not affect the temperatures or cooling at all. It is a precaution you can take while handling the components to avoid damaging them with static electricity. Many people (myself included) do not bother with grounding and get on just fine. In future, though, you should tap a metal object such as the side panel of the PC before touching any hardware.

If you have any more questions, I'm always here to help.

Corsair Air Series AF120

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I am linking the one sold and shipped by Amazon, not the third party seller. link to all vendors

Can anyone recommended some good chassis fans? I recently just ordered 4 Corsair af120 for $50 from amazon, not sure if this is worth it or not.

Does anyone have any pictures of a red/black case with white fans like these I'm looking to illuminate my case but don't want it with all red (with the red corsair fans), the mobo is red/black and it is the red/black s340 case. Thinking it would be better to get them fans rather than an white led strip so I can kill two birds with one stone by adding the fans to the empty slots as well.

Playing a 6 ohm speaker on a 8 ohm setting on my Onkyo-8020. It tends to get pretty hot when I'm jamming.
Would purchasing a fan like this and placing it horizontally ontop of the receiver be recommended?
edit: maybe even get two of them?

Ah ok

​

Step by step on how to do it? What fans do you get because I can't find any small fans like these or I'm just not smart looking for things like this?

​

Does any USB fan work?

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_17?hvadid=78065424219528&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=usb+fan&qid=1567190144&s=gateway&sr=8-17

​

Do the fans blow inside the headset to keep you cool?

I just took off the front chassis, then zip tied the fan to the case. Bought this fan, and plugged it into the usb port in the front. Played around to see where it would work best before zip tying it...I think the parity drive gets used/heats up most. Usually keep it at the lowest fan speed setting but when doing a parity check, will bump it up to medium speed (prob not necessary). I don't spin down disks cause from what I've read it doesn't seem to prevent disk failure?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00G05A2MU&pd_rd_wg=gAUbw&pd_rd_r=DRVPY4GXFQBSF05SJD50&pd_rd_w=U5Io5

Denon recommends at least 5" of space on top and 2" on either side. There is no way I can get space on sides in this entertainment center. Not sure how to deal with this.

The amp is for bass shakers in my couch. I like it better here than next to my couch.

Edit: I guess placing a fan like this AC Infinity Fan on top of the receiver as an exhaust would help. But I don't know from where the receiver takes its air. If it's from the sides, then I'll still have a airflow problem.

Do you happen to know whats the fastest 120mm fans can spin; running on just USB power? Is it possible to tweak existing USB fan like these ones to spin faster and still be safe? My apologies, I have zero experience in electronics.

It sounds like you need a new PSU. On a side note are you monitoring the temp while gaming I have a HP-8200 SFF with a gtx 1050ti & I had to cut a hole in my case & install one of these on the outside to keep the temp down.
https://imgur.com/a/DyXiE

I keep all my consoles in my TV cabinet slots. Like others though I would not recommend doing it without adding in at the very least some vents. I went a bit further and cut a hole in the back and added this USB PC Fan to improve the air flow.
https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479563281&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+pc+fan

I also use one in the slot for my receiver. They work very well.

My router cooler of choice is the AC Infinity fan. (120/140)

Is it better to have an extra fan that blows hot air out sideways from behind the rig, sucks hot air up from the rig, or blows hot air up and out from the bottom of the rig? These fans:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00G05A2MU&pd_rd_r=12ZTB4BYHCDHA5B7SZV1&pd_rd_w=sM9O5&pd_rd_wg=GAA3x&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=DV6B60TFDWNFS85B4CP2&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=0411ffec-c026-40ae-aac5-2cd3d48aeeac&pf_rd_i=desktop

can be positioned any number of ways.

Yeah. It might be overkill... that thing circulates a ton of air. I've been having some issues with temperature so I might try switching it out with something a little less beefy and way quieter like this.

AC Infinity makes usb fans for cooling ht components,

120mm - $11.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For future reference, AVR's are passively cooled so even a small amount of airflow introduced is a lot of airflow. No need to waste $60 coming up with a diy usb fan.

You're the man but you already know that. For those that don't know he's sorting (mythbusting) 60 pages worth of info on non-married batteries in a dual setup. I hope it's BS so the 7+ year debate will end.

I don't know if you improved the crazy ghetto fan setup yet but I have some extra high quality 120mm fans if you need them. If I remember correctly you had a hub with tons of 80mm fans all over the place. I'd love to see that picture again if you have it because that was awesome.

If that's the case you should reach out to the public because this is what you really need and besides making life easier it would help data: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU

It comes with an extra USB port and If I think you can daisy chain 8 of them. I got it for my router so when I throw Tomato's firmware and overclock it more than my 2500k it stays ice cold.

Ah! Thanks so much for the link. I used the same brand, and didn't realize they had a more powerful version. I've been using this.

Next bucket, I'm going to use this. Or just replace my current exhaust fan with this.

I got these usb computer cooling fans and I've had those plugged in since about day one and my PS4 has been quiet and cool since. The fans are dead silent. I don't remember what size I have, I think the 80mm and I've had them on full speed for the past 2 years and no issues. Thinking of buying some 120mm to daisy chain (you can link up to 4 of them) and keep it even cooler. It's not necessary but I like overkill.

They were purchased as USB powered but I used an AC adapter so i can run multiple. They are pretty quiet. Needed b/c its in a living room small media cabinet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4zPGDbG5BFZY9

https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549572385&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+fan

I have two of these and they are quiet

OP, this looks simpler than soldering power supplies and stuff. This kit looks like it will do what you want. Just plug into a spare USB charger.

I ended up turning my fan to medium speed with the bator thermometer at 106 and It bounces between 99 and 100 on my probe meat thermometer. :) The usb fan I'm using plugged into a tablet charger - http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458820974&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+fan&psc=1